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5 /•(✓C'x.w i. 4^'^ i !Ls\ J!f" 4JLX& 

NEW ENGLAND: 


HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. 



A GUIDE TO 


THE CHIEF CITIES AND POPULAR RESORTS OF NEW ENGLAND, 
AND TO ITS SCENERY AND HISTORIC ATTRACTIONS 
WITH THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS, 

FROM NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


With Six Maps and Eleven Elans. 


THIRTEENTH EDITION, REVISED AND AUGMENTEDo 



BOSTON: / 

HOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO., 

1892. 

m it 1 

•' -jJ/ . > > 


> 










Copyright, 1873,1876, and 1884, 

BY JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. 

1885, and 1887, 

By TICKNOR & CO. 

1891, 1892, 

By IIOUGHTON, MIFFLIN & CO. 




PREF/ 



js chief object of the Handbook for New England is to 
,ly the place of a guide in a land where professional guides 
ot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining the greatest 
ble amount of pleasure and information while passing 
t jgh the most ancient and interesting district of Anglo- 
Saxon America. New England has hitherto been but casually 
treated in books which cover wider sections of country ; special 


localities within its borders have been described with more or 
less fidelity in local guide-books ; but the present volume is the 
first which has been devoted to its treatment according to the 
most approved principles of the European works ot similar 
purpose and character. The Handbook is designed to enable 
travellers to visit all or any of the notable places in New 
England, with economy of money, time, and temper, by giving 
lists of the hotels with their prices, descriptions of the various 
routes by land and water, and maps and plans of the principal 
cities. The letter-press contains epitomes of the histories ol the 
old coast and border towns, statements of the principal scenic 


attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, 
biographical sketches in connection with the birthplaces of 
eminent men, and statistics of the chief industries of the included 
States. The half-forgotten but worthy and heroic records of the 
early colonial era and the French and Indian wars have received 
srecial attention in connection with the localities rendered classic 


l,. 'hose remote days, while numerous Indian legends will be 
foi id in various places. The operations of the Wars of the 
P solution and of 1812 (so far as they affected this section of 
j Republic) have been carefully studied and localized, and the 
rise of the great modern manufacturing cities has been traced 








IV 


PREFACE. 


and recorded. The famous summer-resorts — among the moun¬ 
tains and by the sea — with which New England abounds, and 
which are thronged by visitors from all parts of the country, 
have been described at length in these pages. 

The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment 
and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European 
Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and 
system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence. 
the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which 
have made his works tne most popular in Europe, have also been 1 
attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning 
the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or 
verified from the Editor’s personal experience, after fifteen 
months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. 
But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especially 
amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, and 
hence the Editor would be grateful for any bond fide correc¬ 
tions or suggestions with which either travellers or residents may 
favor him. He would also thankfully acknowledge his indebted¬ 
ness to the gentlemen who have revised the book in advance of 
publication. 

The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the 
greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all 
who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system 
of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to 
similar figures attached to lists of the chief public buildings, 
hotels, churches, and notable objects. The most trustworthy 
time-tables are found in “ABC Pathfinder Railway Guide,” 
with map, published monthly at Boston (price 25 c.). The hotels 
indicated by asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor 
to be the most comfortable and elegant. 

M. F. SWEETSER. 

Care of Houghton, Mifflin Co., 

Jf. Park St., Boston. 




CONTENTS 


PAGE 

I. Language.1 

II. Money and Travelling Expenses. 1 

III. Railways and Steamboats. The Check System .... 1 

IV. Excursions on Foot.2 

V. Hotels . 3 

VI. Round-Trip Excursions. 4 

VII. Climate and Dress. 4 

VIII. Miscellaneous Notes. 4 

NEW ENGLAND. 

ftOUTS 

1. Boston.5 

2. Environs of Boston.20 

1. Boston Harbor. The Route to Nahant.20 

2. Nahant.21 

3. The Route to Hull, Hingham, &c.22 

4. Hull.23 

5. Hingham. Charlestown.24 

6. Chelsea. Revere Beach.27 

7. Lexington and Concord..28 

8. Cambridge. Harvard University.29 

9. Mount Auburn.33 

10. Brookline.35 

11. Roxbury.36 

3. Boston to New York by Newport.36 

1. Newport.40 

2. The Approach to New York.47 

4. Boston to S. Duxbury .48 

5. Boston to Plymouth.51 

6. Boston to Cape Cod.54 

1. Fairhaven Branch.. • -54 

2. Marshpee. 56 

7. Boston to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket .58 

1. Gayhead. 60 

8. Boston to New York by Providence.62 

1. Providence.63 

2. Providence to Newport. Narragansett Bay.65 

3. Providence to Warren and Bristol.66 

































VI 


CONTENTS, 


ROUTE 


9. 


The Elizabeth Islands 


10 . 


4. Narragansett Pier .... 

5. Watch Hill Point. 

6. Stonington to New York. Block Island 

7. New Haven. 

Boston to New Bedford .... 

1. New Bedford to Martha’s Vineyard. 

Providence to Worcester. 

11. Bobton to Newburgh. 

12. New London to Vermont. 

1. S. Vernon to Keene. 

13. Norwich to Nashua. 

14. Saybrook to Hartford. 

15. New Haven to Northampton. 

16. Bridgeport to Winsted. 

17. Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills .... 

18. S. Norwalk to Danbury. 

19. Boston to New York (by Norwich). 

1. Boston to Woonsocket. 

20. Hartford to Salisbury and Millerton 

21. Boston to New York (by Springfield). 

1. S. Framingham to Lowell and to Mansfield 

2. S. Framingham to Fitchburg. 

3. Worcester. 

4. Springfield. 

5. Hartford. 

22. Boston to Albany, Saratoga, and the West . 

23. The Berkshire Hills. 

1. Pittsfield and its Environs. 

2. Stockbridge. 

3. N. Adams. 

24. New York to Quebec. The Connecticut Valley towns 

1. Mount Holyoke. 

2. Lake Memphremagog. 

25. Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel. 

26. Boston to Burlington (and Montreal) .... 

1. Fitchburg to Peterboro’. 

27. Rutland to Bennington. 

28. Rutland to Albany. 

1. Rutland and Washington Line. 

29. Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal . 

1. Lowell. 

2. Nashua to Wilton. 

3. Concord to Claremont. 

4. St. Albans to Richford. 

5. St. Albans to Rouse’s Point. 

30. Boston to the Franconia Mountains .... 

31. Boston to the White Mountains .... 


page 

. 68 


70 
. 71 
77 
. 90 
92 
. 93 
94 
. 96 
102 
104 
106 
108 
111 

114 

115 
117 
120 
120 

124 

125 

126 
127 
131 
134 

141 

142 
144 
149 
154 
157 
160 
171 
175 
179 
179 
184 

187 
1S7 

188 
189 
192 
196 
206 
207 
209 
213 


1. Rochester to Portland.213 






































CONTENTS. 


Vll 


llOUTB PAGE 

32. Lake Winwepesaukee and the Sandwich Mountains . . . 215 

1. Centre Harbor to Conway.219 

2. Chocorua and OSsipee.220 

83. The White Mountains and North Conway.221 

1. North Conway.223 

2. North Conway to the Glen House and Gorham .... 225 

3. Gorham.227 

4. Gorham to the Notch.229 

5. North Conway to the Notch.230 

6. The Crawford House to the Profile House.233 

7. Mount Washington.234 

34. The Franconia Mountains and the Pemigewasset Valley . . 238 

1. The Profile House to Plymouth.241 

2. Waterville and Campton.242 

35. The Percy Peaks, Dixville Notch, and Lake Umbagog . . 243 

1. Colebrook to Umbagog and Rangeley.244 

2. Connecticut Lake.245 

36. Boston to Cape Ann.245 

37. Boston to Portland and St. John.248 

1. Peabody, Lowell, and Lawrence Branches.255 

2. Marblehead Branch.255 

3. Essex Branch.257 

4. Amesbury Branch.261 

5. The Isles of Shoals.265 

6. Portsmouth to Concord.267 

7. Portland and its Environs. 270 

8. Casco Bay.274 

38. Boston to Portland.275 

1. Wakefield to" Newburyport.276 

2. Lawrence to Lowell or Manchester ...... 279 

3. Dover to Lake Winnepesaukee.282 

39. Portland to the White Mountains.2S4 

1. Lake Sebago. «... 284 

40. Portland to Quebec and Montreal.287 

1. Mechanic Falls to Canton.287 

2. Bethel to Lake Umbagog ..2S9 

41. Portland to Farmington and the Western Maine Forest . 291 

1. Farmington to the Rangeley Lakes ...... 292 

42. Portland to the Upper Kennebec.293 

43- Boston or Portland to Moosehead Lake ..... 295 

44. Portland to Rockland.. . • . 297 

1. Wiscasset to Boothbay.299 

2. Damariseotta to Bristol and Pemaquid •.299 

45. Portland to Mount Desert.302 

1. Castine.• 302 

2. Bar Harbor.304 

3. Southwest Harbor .... ..... 306 

4. Mount Desert to Machiasport.307 





















Vlll 


CONTENTS. 


ROUTE PAGE 

46. Portland to Lewiston and Bangor .307 

•47. Portland to Augusta and Bangor. 309 

48. Boston to Bangor. The Penobscot River .310 

49. Bangor to St. John.318 

1. Fredericton, N. B..319 

2. St. John River.320 

50. The New Brunswick Border, Eastport to Madawaska . . 321 

THE WESTERN AND NORTHERN BORDERS OF NEW ENGLAND. 

51. New York City .325 

1. Central Park.336 

2. Brooklyn. 339 

52. New York to Albany. The Hudson River .340 

1. The Highlands.343 

2. The Catskill Mountains.347 

3. Albany.348 

53. Albany to Montreal .350 

1. Saratoga.350 

2. Fort Edward to Whitehall or Caldwell.355 

3. Lake George . 357 

4. Lake Champlain.. . 361 

54. Montreal and its Environs .368 

1. Lachine Rapids.372 

2. Victoria Bridge.373 

55. Montreal to Quebec. The St. Lawrence River . . . 373 

56. Quebec . 375 

1. Ste. Anne and Chateau Richer.384 

2. The Saguenay River.385 

MAPS. 

1. General Map of New England. 

2. Map of Boston. 

3. Map of Nahant. 

4. Map of Lake Winnepesaukee. 

5. Map of the White and Franconia Mountains. 

6. Map of the Hudson River. 

PLANS OF CITIES, &c. 

Hartford, Montreal, New Haven, New York, Newport, Portland, 
Providence, Quebec, Mount Auburn Cemetery. 

ABBREVIATIONS. 

M. = mile ; hr. = hour ; min. = minute ; ft. = foot or feet; r. = right ; 1. = left ; 
N. = north ; S. = south ; E. = east; W. = west. 


ASTERISKS 

denote objects deserving of special attention. 





















NEW ENGLAND. 


“ Nobis etemum reliquerunt monumentum, 

Novanglorum moenia.” 

“Nova Anglia” : a Latin poem by Morrell, 1G25. 

New England is the northeastern portion of the United States, and 
comprises the States of Maine, New Hampshire, Vermont, Massachusetts, 
Connecticut, and Rhode Island. It is bounded on the S. by the Atlantic 
Ocean and Long Island Sound, on the W. by the State of New \ ork, on the 
N. by the Province of Quebec, and on the E. by the province of New Bruns¬ 
wick and the Atlantic Ocean. It lies between the latitudes 41° and 48° 
N. and the longitudes 67° and 74° W. from Greenwich, and has an area 
of 66,465 square M., with a population of 4,700,743 (census of 1890). 
The principal religious sect is the Congregational, which has 190,473 
members ; the Episcopal Church has 38,098; and the Methodists ha\e 
70,000. The Catholics and the Baptists (114,000) are also strong in 
numbers, while Unitarianism has here its chief power. A high standard 
of education prevails among the people, and is supported by an extenshe 
school-system and several renowned colleges. The New-Englanders have 
always been distinguished for a marked individuality ot thought, by 
reason of which the most advanced and radical schools of philosophy, 
politics, and religion have arisen or have been developed here. I he 
nature of the climate and of the soil has rendered agriculture less 
profitable than at the West, and the strength of the section has been 
found in the establishment and maintenance of vast manufacturing indus¬ 
tries. The coast extends in a direct line for over 700 M., with many 
spacious harbors; and the maritime cities are celebrated for their skilful 
seamen and for their large fleets of merchant-ships, dhis distiict \\as 
granted by James I. to the Plymouth Company (in 1606) under the name 
of North Virginia; but Capt. John Smith, having surveyed and mapped 
the coast in 1614, gave it the name of New England. 

Maine 

is bounded on the S. by the Atlantic, *>n the W. by N. H., on the N. by 
Canada, and on the E. by New Brunswick. It is the most northeastern of 
the United States, and the largest of the States of New England. It has 
an area of 33,040 square M., with a population of 661,080, and a valuation 
of $ 235,978,216. It is divided into 16 counties, and has 17 small cities, 



X 


MAINE. 


the chief of which is Portland, while the capital is Augusta, at the head 
of ship-navigation on the Kennebec River. The coast of “ hundred-har¬ 
bored Maine ” is remarkably picturesque, with deep fiords running up 
between bold peninsulas, and with archipelagos of beautiful islands resting 
in quiet and extensive bays. The direct line of the coast from Kittery 
Point to Quoddy Head is 278 M., but the deep curves of the bays and 
estuaries give an actual shore-line of nearly 2,500 M. Mt. Desert (60,000 
acres) is the largest of the many islands which front the ocean, and Mon- 
hegan is the most distant from the mainland. The great rivers Penob¬ 
scot, Kennebec, and St. Croix empty into the sea on this coast, and 
furnish wide and convenient harbors. Nearly § of the area of Maine is 
still covered with primeval forests, and the lumber-trade is the chief 
industry of the State. The trees are felled and hauled to the water¬ 
courses during the winter, and in the spring they are united in vast rafts 
and floated down to the river cities. In the S. and E. of the great forest 
is a broken range of mountains, the loftiest of which is Mt. Katahdin 
(5,385 ft. high). One tenth of Maine is covered with water. Maine has 
4,500 factories, 53,000 operatives, and an annual product of $80,000,000 in 
manufactured goods. The State has 65,000 farms. 

The Maine coast was first visited by Gosnold in 1602, and in 1607 the 
short-lived Sagadahoc colony settled at the mouth of the Kennebec 
River. The French colonies at the St. Croix River and Mt. Desert were 
but ephemeral, and several other attempts proved equally unsuccessful, 
partly owing to the hostility between the claimants of the territory (the 
French and English), and the distrust of the Indians for both of them. 
The island of Monhegan was settled in 1622, and Saco was founded in 
1623. When the Plymouth Company broke up, in 1635, Sir Ferdinando 
Gorges received by royal charter the province of Maine (then first so 
called). In 1642 his son founded the city of Gorgeana (York), but in 
1651 Mass, absorbed Maine, being sustained by the exigencies of the 
times and by the Puritan Parliament of England. After some resistance 
on the part of the Maine proprietors. Mass, bought out their interest, and 
thenceforward ruled the northern province for nearly 170 years with a 
firm and beneficial sway. From 1675 until 1760 a disastrous succession 
of Indian wars ensued, in which every twentieth settler was killed or 
captured and many towns were destroyed. The bombardment of Port¬ 
land (1775) and the naval battle at Castine (1779) were the chief events 
during the Revolution, but the coast was badly harried during the War 
of 1812. In 1820 Maine was admitted into the Union as the twenty- 
third State. 

New Hampshire 

is bounded on the S. by Mass., on the W. by Vt., on the N. by the 
province of Quebec, and on the E. by Maine and the Atlantic. It has an 


NEW HAMPSHIRE —VERMONT. 


Xl 


area of 9,305 square M., with a population of 376,530, and a valuation of 
$ 164,755,181. It is divided into 10 counties, with 234 towns and 6 cities, 
and the capital is Concord, on the Merrimac River. There is an ocean- 
front of 18 M., which is bordered by level plains stretching inland, while 
just off the coast are the remarkable Isles of Shoals, formerly famed for 
their fisheries and now a favorite summer-resort. Beyond the sea-shore 
plains the country assumes a more rugged and broken appearance, with 
numerous isolated summits and hill-ranges which culminate in the White 
Mts., covering over 40 square M. of a picturesque district which is called 
“the Switzerland of America.” The lakes of N. H. cover 110,000 acres, 
and the most beautiful of their number is Winnepesaukee, which has 69 
square M. of extent, and contains 300 islands. The soil of the State is 
not fertile, but it has much mineral wealth ; and the climate, though 
severe, is very healthful. There are extensive primeval forests in the N. 
(Cobs County), in whose recesses wolves and bears still are found ; and the 
remote lakes and streams afford fine fishing. The Connecticut, Saco, and 
Merrimac Rivers have their sources in N. H., and on the water-power 
afforded by the latter large manufacturing cities are located. The State has 
more than 3,200 factories, with 48,000 operatives, using $44,000,(100 worth 
of material, and turning out $ 74,000,000 worth of goods. The manufactures 
of cotton and woollen goods, iron and leather, are the chief mechanical 
industries, and centre at the cities of Manchester and Nashua. The press 
of the State consists of 10 daily' papers, 66 weeklies, and 7 monthlies. 

The N. H. coast was first visited by the Europeans in 1614, and settle¬ 
ments were founded at Dover and Portsmouth about 1623. The district 
was for many years under the government of Mass., and was afterwards 
ceded to N. Y., while the incessant inroads of the Indians devastated the 
frontiers for nearly 80 years. The chief incidents of these wars were the 
destruction of Dover (1689), and the battle of Pequawket. In 1741 N. H. 
became a royal province, and in 1776 it led the secession from the British 
Empire, giving freely of its men and money to the cause of independence. 

Vermont 

is bounded on the S. by Mass., on the W. by N. Y. and Lake Champlain, 
on the N. by Canada, and on the E. by N. H. Tt has an area of 9,565 M., 
with a population of 332,422, and a valuation of $ 86,806,775. It is 
divided into 14 counties, and has but 2 small cities, the great majority of 
the people being engaged in farming. The centre of the State is trav¬ 
ersed from N. to S. by the Green Mts., whose smooth and rounded sum¬ 
mits form a marked contrast with the sharp peaks of the White Mts. 
The chief of the Green Mts. are Mt. Mansfield (4,359 It.), Camel s Hump 
(4,188 ft.), Killington and Pico Peaks, and Mt. Ascutney. The E. slope 
is watered by several streams which flow into the Connecticut River, 


Xll 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


while the W. slope sinks into the broad and fertile plains which border 
Lake Champlain and are traversed by Otter Creek and the Winooski, 
Lamoille, and Missisquoi Rivers. The Lakes Memphremagog, Willoughby, 
Dunmore, Bomaseen, and St. Catharine are pleasant summer-resorts, and 
the great Lake Champlain affords an avenue for an extensive international 
commerce, whose chief centre is the port of Burlington. The evergreen 
forests on the mountains alternate with broad pasture-plains, and the 
deciduous groves on the lowlands are interspersed with tillage-fields of rich 
loamy soil, so that Vt. has become the most agricultural of the Northern 
States, and exceeds all others (proportionally to her population) in the 
production of wool, live stock, maple sugar, butter and cheese, hay, hops, 
and potatoes. There are made here annually 13,000 tons of butter, 750 
tons of cheese, and 4,500 tons of maple-sugar. Extensive quarries of fine 
statuary and variegated marble and serpentine have been opened in the S. 
counties, and vast quantities of slate have been exported from the same 
region. There are 36,000 farms, valued at $110,000,000. 

The first European who saw Vt. was Jacques Cartier, who, in 1535, 
looked upon its high ridges from Mount Royal (Montreal). Its coast was 
explored by Champlain and others in 1609, and prosperous French settle¬ 
ments were made (in Addison) later in the 17th century. In 1724 Mass, 
built Fort Dummer (near the present town of Brattleboro); but the num¬ 
bers and ferocity of the Indians prevented colonization until after the 
conquest of Canada (1760). The territory was then partly occupied under 
grants from N. H., until it was ceded to N. Y.; and thereafter ensued a 
controversy in which the settlers successfully resisted the authorities of 
N. Y. until the outbreak of the Revolution, when they proclaimed Ver¬ 
mont (Verts Monts, or Green Mts.) an independent State. Congress twice 
refused to acknowledge the new State, although its soldiers (“ the Green 
Mountain Boys”) captured Ticonderoga and Crown Point, and annihilated 
the flower of Burgoyne’s German auxiliaries at the battle of Bennington. 
In 1791, after paying New York §30,000 in liquidation of all claims, Vt. 
was admitted into the Union (the 14th State), and since that time has 
prospered and steadily increased in wealth and population. 

Massachusetts 

is bounded on the S. by Conn, and R. I., on the W. by N. Y., on the N. 
by Vt. and N. H., and on the E. by the Atlantic. It has an area of 8,315 
square M., with 2,238,943 inhabitants, and a valuation of § 1,584,756,802. 
The soil is not fertile, but considerable crops are gained by careful 
cultivation ; and the best land is found in the valleys of the Connecticut 
and Housatonic Rivers. There is but little level land in the State, and in 
the W. counties the Taconic and Hoosac Ranges of mountains afford great 
diversity of scenery. The Connecticut River flows through a garden-like 


MASSACHUSETTS. 


XI11 


valley, with several prosperous towns ; and the Merrimac (in the N. E.) 
affords a vast water-power to Lowell and Lawrence, and passes into the 
sea at Newburvport. The climate is severe in the hill-countries, and is 
very variable on the coast, — the mean temperature being between 44° 
and 51°. There are 38,500 farms, whose annual products amount to over 
$ 50,000,000, and the State has 2,250,000 apple-trees. Profitable beds of 
iron ore and glass sand have been developed, and the exportation of mar¬ 
ble (from Berkshire County) and granite (from Quincy and Cape Ann) 
has become a lucrative business. The State has been celebrated for the 
number and excellence of its ships, and for the skill and enterprise of its 
seamen. Granite, ice, and fish are among the chief articles of export; 
the latter being brought in by the large fishing-fleets of Cape Cod and 
Gloucester. Massachusetts has 14,352 manufactories, paying annually 
$ 128,000,000 to 352,000 operatives, using $387,000,000 worth of materials, 
and making $ 631,000,000 worth of goods (boots, shoes, and leather, 
$ 144,000,000; cottons, $75,000,000; woollens and worsteds, $58,000,000; 
paper, $15,000,000). In 1890, the net State debt was less than the funds 
in the treasury. 

The prevailing religious sect is the Congregational, the Baptist, Meth¬ 
odist, and Unitarian churches being also strong, while the Roman Catholics 
are rapidly attaining great power and influence. The educational insti¬ 
tutions of the State are admirably arranged and have a high reputation, 
their efficiency being assured by the maintenance of four normal schools, 
five colleges, and Harvard University. The militia is kept in a state of 
high efficiency and discipline, and composes two brigades, with infantry, 
cavalry, and artillery, which go into camp every year for several days, at 
the State camp-ground and fort, at Framingham. 

The coast of Mass, was first visited by the Norwegian mariners Leif and 
Thorwald, about the year 1000. After several attempts at colonization, 
which were frustrated by the powerful native tribes, the Norsemen aban¬ 
doned the country (which, from its fruitfulness, they had named Vinland). 
In 1497 John and Sebastian Cabot cruised along the coast, and were fol¬ 
lowed by Cortereal, Verrazzani, and Gomez. In 1602 Gosnold explored 
the S. E. islands, and planted an ephemeral colony on Cuttyhunk, near 
New Bedford. Bring, Champlain, and Weymouth soon after passed along 
the coast, while Capt. John Smith, following them in 1614, made a map 
of the coast and islands. Dec. 21, 1620, the ship “ Mayflower” arrived 
at Plymouth with 102 Pilgrims, who had been driven from England by 
religious persecution, and who founded here the first permanent colony in 
Mass. Salem was settled in 1628, and Boston in 1630, by Puritan exiles, 
and the Atlantic coast and the Connecticut valley were soon dotted with 
villages of bold and hardy immigrants. 


XIV 


CONNECTICUT. 


The Pequot War (1637) and King Philip’s War (1675-6) caused a fear¬ 
ful loss of life and property, and several of the valley towns were utterly 
destroyed before the colonial forces could crush the insurgent tribes. In 
1689 the province revolted against the royal authorities, and the country- 
people took Boston and its fortifications and guard-frigate, and imprisoned 
the governor (Sir Edmund Andros). In 1692 Plymouth was united to 
Massachusetts, and thereafter, until the conquest of Canada in 1760, the 
province was foremost in the wars with the French colonies in the N. 
Many of her towns were destroyed by Indian raids, and the W. frontier 
was nearly depopulated; but the general prosperity was unchecked, and 
when the British Parliament commenced its unjust oppressions, the prov¬ 
ince had 250,000 inhabitants, many of whom were trained veterans of the 
Canadian Wars. In face of the royal army which had been moved into 
Boston, the men of Massachusetts opened correspondences which brought 
about a colonial union for mutual defence, and enrolled themselves as 
minute-men, ready to march against the British troops at a minute’s 
notice. The battles of Concord and Lexington were followed by a general 
appeal to arms; and the siege of Boston, the Battle of Bunker Hill, and 
the American occupation of the city came in rapid succession. After 
these events the scene of war was transferred to New York and the South, 
where the Massachusetts regiments won high honor, especially in the 
victorious campaign against Burgoyne’s invading army. In 1780 the State 
Constitution was framed, and in 1786 a serious revolt occurred in the W. 
counties, caused by the pressure of enormous taxes. This rising (which 
was headed by Daniel Shays) was put down after a few skirmishes. In 
the War of 1812 the State theoretically confined her exertions to the de¬ 
fence of her own coast, though thousands of her seamen entered the 
national navy. Extensive manufacturing interests now rose rapidly into 
view, and a network of railroads was stretched across the State. During 
the War for the Union (1861-5) Massachusetts put forth her utmost 
strength, and gave 158,380 men to the armies of the Republic, besides 
incurring a war-debt of over § 50,000,000. 

Connecticut 

is bounded on the S. by Long Island Sound, on the W. by New York, on 
the N. by Mass., and on the E. by R. I. It has an area of 4,990 square 
M., with 746,258 inhabitants, and a valuation of $327,177,385. There are 
8 counties, 160 towns, and 10 cities. The soil is usually rugged and com¬ 
paratively unproductive, although the river-valleys afford some rich lands, 
and considerable crops are raised by laborious cultivation. The tobacco- 
crop is in the vicinity of 15,000,000 pounds a year; the butter product 
is 8,200,000 pounds; and the hay-crop is 557,800 tons. “The manufac¬ 
tures of the State are more general, multifarious, and productive than 


CONNECTICUT. 


XV 


those of any other people of similar means,” — clocks and carriages, fire¬ 
arms, tin and brittania ware, sewing-machines, iron and rubber goods 
being the chief articles of production. There are 66 savings-banks, with 
deposits amounting to $ 55,297,705, and many wealthy and powerful 
insurance companies. New Haven has a lucrative West India trade, 
while New London has a considerable number of vessels engaged in sealing 
and whaling. Connecticut has 4,500 manufactories, paying annually 
$43,500,000 to 112,000 operatives; and from $102,000,000 worili of 
material, making $186,000,000 of goods. 

The chief religious sect is the Congregational, and the Episcopal Church 
has more strength here than in any other State (proportionally to the 
population). There are three colleges, Yale (Cong.), Trinity (Epis.), and 
Wesleyan (Meth.), with 4 schools of theology. The educational interests 
of the State are well and efficiently carried on, under the support of the 
great funds derived from the sale of the Western Reserve lands. The 
charitable and correctional institutions of the State are remarkable for 
their influence and efficiency. The ingenuity, enterprise, and individuality 
of the men of Conn, have given them an advanced place in the mercantile 
and political activities of the Republic; and “probably no country of 
similar extent has sent abroad so vast a horde of emigrants in proportion 
to its population.” 

The coast and rivers of Conn, were first explored by Adrian Block 
and other Dutch mariners (1614-33); the district was in the English 
Plymouth Patent of 1620, and was chartered in 1631. About that time 
the river Indians were subjugated by the Pequots, and Seguin, their chief, 
sent to New York, Plymouth, and Boston for help. In 1633 a small 
Dutch colony landed at Hartford; and in the same year a Plymouth vessel 
passed up to Windsor, where a settlement was planted. These were 
merely trading-posts, but Wethersfield was occupied in 1634, and in 1636 
three nomadic churches were led by their pastors through the wilderness 
from Boston to the Conn. River, where they settled at Hartford, Windsor, 
and Wethersfield. Saybrook was founded and fortified in 1635, and in 
1637 the first legislature declared war against the Pequot Indians, who 
were defeated and speedily crushed by the colonial train-bands, aided oy 
the friendly tribes. In April, 1638, New Haven was settled, and soon 
after the other coast-towns were founded. In 1639 a remarkable consti¬ 
tution (which acknowledged no higher human power than the people of 
Conn.) was adopted, and in 1662 a royal charter was obtained. After the 
union of the independent colonies of Conn. (Hartford) and New Haven, in 
1665, the two towns were made semi-capitals of the province (and State), 
and so remained until 1873, when Hartford was made the sole capital. 
The State stood honorably among the foremost during the Revolution, 
although the towns along the coast were pillaged and destroyed by raids 
from the Hessian and Tory garrison at New York. 




XVI 


RHODE ISLAND. 


Rhode Island 

is bounded on the S. by the Atlantic, on the W. by Conn., and on the N. 
and E. by Mass. It is the smallest State in the Union, and has an area 
of 1,250 square M., with 345,500 inhabitants, and a valuation of § 252,536,- 
073. There are 5 counties, with 33 towns, and 4 cities. The soil is un¬ 
productive, and but little farming is done save on the fertile plains of the 
Island of Aquidneck. The State is nearly cut in two by Narragansett 
Bay, which runs inland for 30 M. (with a width of 3-12 M.), and contains 
several islands, the chief of which is Aquidneck (or Rhode Island) on 
whose S. end is the famous summer-resort, Newport. 11 M. S. E. of 
Point Judith is Block Island, which pertains to this State. The climate 
is mild and equable, from its vicinity to the sea and exposure to the S.; 
and the greater part of the State is a region of low hills or sea-shore plains. 
The principal mechanical industries are at Providence, Pawtucket, Woon¬ 
socket, and Westerly; and in the year 1880 the State reported 2,205 man¬ 
ufacturing establishments, with an aggregate capital of $76,000,000, us¬ 
ing annually $ 58,000,000 worth of raw material, and producing over 
$ 104,000,000 worth of goods. The 33 savings-banks of the State hold in 
deposit $36,289,703. The charitable and correctional institutions are 
mostly about Providence, where is also the seat of Brown University, a 
flourishing school under the care of the Baptist Church, which is the 
prevailing sect in the State. 

Rhode Island was probably colonized by the Norsemen in the 10th and 
11th centuries, but was afterwards abandoned for centuries, until the 
coming of Verrazzani in 1524. He remained at Aquidneck (which was then 
thickly populated by Indians) for two weeks. In 1636 Roger Williams, 
having been banished from Mass., came down the Seekonk River with 5 
companions, and founded a settlement which he named Providence, in 
acknowledgment of “ God’s merciful providence to him in his distress.” 
In 1638 Win. Coddington and another party of exiles founded Newport ; 
in 1642 a third banished company settled at Warwick; and in 1643 and 
1663 these colonies united under a royal charter. The powerful Narra¬ 
gansett Indians dwelt in Rhode Island, and when King Philip’s War 
broke out they ravaged all the outlying settlements and killed many of 
the colonists. The New England colonies, ignoring the existence of heret¬ 
ical Rhode Island, and rejecting its advice, marched an army across to 
the Narragansett country, and, after a terrific assault, stormed the Indian 
stronghold and crushed the tribe. The little province gave freely of her 
men and money in the French wars, and sent some of the best troops to 
the American siege of Boston. In Dec., 1776, Newport was taken by the 
British, who held it for 3 years, but were prevented by the New England 
militia from passing farther into the country. In 1861 the men of Rhode 
Island were among the first to reach the imperilled national capital. 


INTRODUCTION 


I. Language. 

The people of New England claim that they speak the English lan¬ 
guage more correctly than it is spoken elsewhere in the world. Be this 
as it may, it is certain that this one language is universally used through¬ 
out the six States, and the traveller is delivered from the trouble caused 
in Great Britain by its four languages and numerous dialects, or in France 
by its three languages and provincial patois. The European tongues are 
taught in the high-schools all over the country, but the instruction is 
purely theoretical, and the number who can talk French, German, or Ital¬ 
ian is very small. Tourists, who wish to travel among the remoter dis¬ 
tricts of New England, should be well acquainted with the language, 
which is “the English of Elizabeth,” with a few local idioms. 

4 

II. Money and Travelling Expenses. 

The notes of the U. S. Treasury and the national banks are the usual 
forms of money in circulation, although gold coin is sometimes seen. 
The silver coins, valued at 10, 25, and 50 ceids, are common ; and so are 
the nickel and mixed coins, of 1, 2, 3, and 5 cents. 


The usual charge per day at the best hotels is $ 4 to 
$ 5.00, with considerable reductions when a prolonged stay is made at one 
place. Tourists who travel slowly through the country and stop at the 
less pretentious hotels (which are usually comfortable, and always sale) 
may easily limit their expenses to $ 25 or $ 30 per week. Those who fre¬ 
quent hotels of the highest class, and indulge much in carriage-riding, 
will find § 45 to $ 50 per week none too much. At most of the sea-beaches 
board can be secured at $ 10 or $15 per week ; while in the quieter and 
less fashionable villages about the mountains, substantial fare may be 
found in broad old farm-houses, for $6 to $10 per week. 

III. Railways and Steamboats. 

Railway travelling in America is much more comfortable 

than in the Old World. There is but one clas.s of 



9 


INTRODUCTION. 


tickets, the average fares being about three cts. a mile. On each train is 
a smoking-car, easily accessible from the other cars, and fitted with tables 
for card-playing. It is prudent to decline playing with strangers, as 
gamblers sometimes practice their arts here, in spite of the watchfulness 
of the officers of the train. To nearly every through train on the grand 
routes is attached one or more Pullman cars, which are richly carpeted 
and curtained, and profusely furnished with sofas, easy-chairs, tables, 
mirrors, and fronted with broad plate glass windows. These cars being 
well balanced and running on twelve wheels, glide over the rails with 
great ease. By night they are ingeniously changed into sleeping-rooms, 
with comfortable beds. The extra fares on the palace cars are collected 
by men attached to them; the price of a night’s lodging (in which time 
one can go from boston to New York) is $1.50. The fares by steamboat are 
somewhat lower than by rail, and (in case of a night passage) include a 
sleeping-berth in the lower saloon, but generally do not include meals. 
A state-room in the upper cabin costs extra, but insures better air and 
greater comfort and privacy. State-rooms (in the summer season) should 
be secured in advance at the company’s office in New York, Boston, or 
Portland. Great lines of stages still run among the mountains and in the 
remote rural districts. Persons travelling by this way, in pleasant weather, 
should try to get a seat on the outside. 

The Check System. — The traveller, having bought a ticket for his des¬ 
tination, shows his heavy baggage (trunks, &c.) to the baggage-master, 
who attaches a small numbered brass plate to each piece with a leather 
thong, and gives to the traveller a check for each piece of baggage, simi¬ 
lar in form and number to that appended to such piece. The railroad 
now becomes responsible (within certain limits of weight and value) for 
the baggage, which is to be given up only on the presentation of the du¬ 
plicate check which is in the traveller’s possession. Trunks may be thus 
despatched from Boston to Montreal, Boston to Chicago, &c., without 
trouble, and if their owner is delayed on the route, they are stored safely 
at their destined station until he calls. On presentation of the check at 
the baggage-room of the station to which the baggage has been sent, it is 
given up to the owner, or his hotel porter. The large hotels have coaches 
at the railroad stations, on the arrival of through trains, and their porters 
will take the duplicate checks, get the trunks and carry them to the hotel. 

IV. Excursions on Foot. 

It is remarkable that pedestrianism has never been popular in this 
country. The ease and perfect freedom of this mode of travelling, its 
highly beneficial physical effects, the leisure thus afforded in which to 
study the beautiful scenery in otherwise remote and inaccessible dis¬ 
tricts, all mark this as one of the most profitable and pleasant modes of 



INTRODUCTION. 


3 


summer recreation. To walk two hundred miles in a fortnight is an easy 
thing, and it is infinitely more refreshing for a man of sedentary habits 
than the same length of time spent in lying on the sands of some beach, 
or idling in a farm-house among the hills. “ For a tour of two or three 
weeks, a couple of flannel shirts, a pair of worsted stockings, slippers, 
and the articles of the toilet, carried in a pouch slung over the shoulder, 
will generally be found a sufficient equipment, to which a light overcoat 
and a stout umbrella may be added. Strong and well-tried boots are 
essential to comfort. Heavy and complicated knapsacks should be 
avoided; a light pouch, or game-bag, is far less irksome, and its position 
may be shifted at pleasure.” — Baedeker. One or two books might be 
added to this list, and a reserve of clothing may be sent on in a light valise, 
at a trifling cost, to the town which is the pedestrian’s objective point. 

It would be well for inexperienced walkers to begin at eight to ten 
miles a day, and gradually increase to sixteen to eighteen miles, or six 
hours’ walking. During the heats of summer the travelling should be 
done at early morning and late afternoon, thus spending the hottest part 
of the day in coolness and rest. The best time for a pedestrian tour is 
between late September and late October, when the sky is clear and the 
air bracing, — the season of the reaping of harvests, the ripening of fruits, 
and the splendor of the reddening forests. 

Among the most interesting districts in New England for the pedes¬ 
trian, the following may be mentioned: The picturesque valleys, lakes, 
and mountains of Berkshire County, Mass.; the valley of the Connecticut 
from Springfield to Greenfield ; the ocean-surrounded arm of sand, Cape 
Cod, with its quaint and salty old villages (Thoreau’s “ Cape Cod” is the 
best guide there) ; the lake region of New Hampshire ; the White and 
Franconia Mountains (frequently explored by walking parties from the 
colleges during the summer vacation); and in Maine, the romantic Island 
of Mount Desert. The east bank of the Hudson River, from New York 
to Albany, affords a walk of rare interest, and the west shore of Lake 
George presents a short walk through peerless scenery. But the most in¬ 
teresting ramble is from Quebec through the CSte de Montmorenci to 
Cape Tormente, there crossing the St. Lawrence, and passing down the 
south shore through the quaint old Norman Catholic villages of Mont- 
magny, L’lslet, and Kamouraska. This route can be traversed only by 
an experienced traveller who is well posted in French. There are but 
very few hotels in this ancient and primitive district. 

V. Hotels, 

The hotels of the United States will certainly bear comparison with 
those of any other country. The European plan has .been adopted in 
many of them (as Parker’s and Young’s, and others at Boston; while in 
many others it is used in combination with the American plan, —$4 to 


4 


INTRODUCTION. 


$4.50 per day at the more fashionable houses, $2.50 to $ 4 per day at the 
comfortable hotels of the smaller cities, and $1.50 to $2.50 per day in 
the smaller houses in the niral districts, are the charges which cover all 
ordinary requirements. No costly array of sundries and extras is at¬ 
tached to the bill. 


VI, Round-Trip Excursions. 

During the summer and early fall the railroads prepare series of ex¬ 
cursion tickets at greatly reduced rates. Information and lists of these 
routes may be obtained from the central offices in Boston. 

VII. Climate and Dress. 

The climate of New England is subject to the most sudden and severe 
changes, from heat to cold or from cold to heat. The summers are 
usually much hotter and the winters much colder than in England, and 
during the latter season great falls of snow are frequent. The summer 
sun is often fatal in its power, and long exposure to its vertical rays should 
be avoided. At the same time warm clothing should be kept at hand, 
and woollen, or at least heavy cotton, underclothing should be worn, in 
order to guard against the sudden changes which are so frequent. 

% 

VIII. Miscellaneous Notes. 

Passports are of no use in the United States in time of peace. 

The examination of luggage at the Canadian frontier and at the ocean- 
ports is usually very lenient, and conducted in a courteous manner. 

Traffic is made easy from the fact that fixed charges exist in the shops, 
and the tiresome processes of chaffing and beating down are unnecessary. 

There are no professional guides in New England, but the people are 
prompt and willing to answer all civilly put questions. Gentlemen from 
abroad will remember that there is here, especially in the country, no 

peasantry, and that a haughty question or order will 
often provoke a reply couched in all “ the native rudeness of the Saxon 
tongue.” 



1. Boston. 


Hotels. — The *Hotel Brunswick (Barnes & Dunklee) is one of the chief hotels 
of Boston, and one of the finest in America. It stands at the corner of Bovlston 
and Clarendon Sts., in the elegant residence-quarter, alongside Trinity Church, 
opposite the Mass. Institute of Technology and the Museum of Natural History, 
and close to the Art Museum, the Y. M. C. A., the new Old South Church, and the 
Boston Art Club. It is a magnificeut structure, built at a cost of over $l,00U,O(JU, 
and has the best and richest of appointments. 

The *IIotel Victoria is a sumptuous establishment at the corner of Dartmouth 
and Newbury Sts. (Barnes & Dunklee). It is on the European plan. 

The *Hotel Vendome (C. 11. Greeuleaf & Co.) is a magnificent marble building 
on Commonwealth Ave. and Dartmouth St., in the most beautiful and aristocratic 
residence-quarter of the city. 

The *Copley-Square Hotel, at Huntington Avenue and Exeter St., has 260 rooms, 
60 with baths. $4 to $5 a day ; or rooms at $1.50 a day and upwards 

The Huntington, at Huntington Avenue aud Blagden St (near Copley Square), 
is on the European plan. 

The following hotels are on the European plan, the three first charging from 
$1.50 a day upward for rooms, and the others from tfl: 

♦Young’s Hotel, on Court Ave., near the head of State St , h is one of the hand¬ 
somest dining-rooms in the world, and a famous cuisine. 

The *Parker House, at Tremont and Scnool Sts , is a stately marble building, 
opposite King's Chapel and the City Hall. 

The *Adams House is a lofty marble building on Washington St., in the theatre 
district, between West and Boylston Sts. * 

The Thorndike, between the Providence station and the Public Garden, is a large 
modern house, beautifully situated. 

The Crawford House fronts on Scollay Square : the Hotel Reynolds is on Wash¬ 
ington and Boylston Sts. ; Clark's Tavern (for men) stands just off Washington S'., 
near the Old South Meeting-house ; and the famous old Reveie House is on Bow- 
doin Square. The Bellevue is on the crest of Beacon St., near the State House. 

Among the great old hotels still successful in Boston are the Tremont Ilou-e, at 
the corner of Beacon and Tremont Sts. ; the United-States Hotel, near the Albany 
and Old Colony stations ($2.50 a day); the American House, on Hanover St. ($2 50 
a d ->v) ; and the Quincy House (300 guests ; $3 a day), on Brattle Square 

Vieth’s Hotel ($2.50 a day) is at 245 Tremont St. ; the New Marlboro, at 726 Wash¬ 
ington St. 

The Grand Hotel, 417 Columbus Avenue, charges $3 a day (or rooms from $1). 
Near Beacon Hill are the quiet Hotel Winthrop (34 Bowdoin St.) and Hotel Water- 
sten (8 Bulfinch Place). 

At.the South End. The Langham is an immense marble building on Washing¬ 
ton St., corner Worcester St. ($4 a day ; $16 to $25 a week). The Clarendon, at 521 
and 523 Tremont St., charges $3 to $4 a day. There are hundreds of comfortable 
and inexpensive boarding-houses in Boston, especially on Columbus Ave. Roxbury 
has the great Norfolk House ; and East Boston has the Maverick Ilou«e ($2 a day). 

Restaurants, — The beautiful dining-rooms (meals a. la carte) of Young's, 
Parker s, the Adams, the Thorndike, and the Victoria are largely patronized, espe¬ 
cially by ladies. These houses have separate dining-rooms for men who prefer 
them. Meals d la carte also at the Brunswick, Reynolds, Grand, Crawford, etc. 

Fera’s is at 162 Tremont St. ; Pooling's and Weber's on Temple Place ; Copeland's 
at 128 Tremont St. ; the Moulton and Gilman's at 24 and 5b Summer ; and Mars- 
ton's at 29 Brattle St. 

French cooking at Ober’s Restaurant Parisien (4 Winter Place), and at Mieusset 
Freres, on Van-Rensselaer Place and Milk St. ( table d'hote). Italian cookery at 
Vercelli's, 196 Boylston St. 

Confectionery and ices may be obtained at Huyler’s (146 Tremont St.), Dool- 
ing's, Fera’s, Copeland’s, Weber’s, etc. ; also at Bailee's. 45 West St. 


6 


Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


Hath*.— Turkish, Russian, electric, sulphur, and large plunge-baths (reserved 
for ladies forenoons, Saturdays excepted). Visitors will find the most complete and 
luxurious arrangements. — Hotel Boylston, 11)2 Tremont St., under the direction of 
.1 l)e Beer, M. D — Turkish baths at 17 Beacon St. (ladies on Monday and Thursday 
forenoons). 

lieading-ltooms (open evenings also). — In the Public Library are the prin¬ 
cipal European periodicals and American newspapers and magazines. The Young 
Men's Christian lluion (20 Boylston St) and the Young Men’s Christian Association 
(corner of Boylston and Berkeley Sts ) have large and well-supplied reading-rooms, 
free to all visitors. An introduction from a member is necessary to secure admission 
to the Athenmum reading-rooms. Tue chief hotels devote rooms to numerous files 
of the newspapers of the day. 

Theatres. — The * Boston Theatre (on Washington St, near West St ) is the 
largest in New England, and is famous in the annals of the stage. Orchestra and 
parquet-circle seats, $ 1.50 ; balcony, §> 1; dress-circle, 75 cts. ; family circle. 50 cts. 
The * Globe Theatre (on Washington ."t., near Boylston) has a brilliant auditorium, 
and is visited by operatic troupes and star-performers. Orchestra and balcony seats, 
$ 1.50 ; balcony-circle, $ 1: family-circle, 50 cts. The Bo-ton Museum (Tremont 
St., near School St.) is conducted by an admirable stock company. Orchestra-seats 
§1: balcony, 75 cts.; parquet circle, 50 cts. The Park and the Bijou are on Wash¬ 
ington St., near the Boston and Globe Theatres. The llollis-St. Theatre is a spa¬ 
cious new house on Hollis St. The Howard Athenaeum is devoted to varieties. 
The Tremont Theatre is a beautiful modern play-house on Tremont Street, near 
Boylston Street. 

Classic Music is given in Music Hall (Winter St.) by the Handel and Haydn Soci¬ 
ety, the Boston Symphony Orchestra, and other famous societies. Lectures, con¬ 
certs , etc., are frequently given at Tremont Temple, Music Hall, Horticultural Hall, 
Chickering Hall, and Hawthorne Rooms. Art exhibitions, in the Studio Building 
(TremontJSt.), the Boston Art Club rooms (Dartmouth St.), and the sales-galleries. 
Base-ball matches, on the South-End grounds (Tremont-St. cars), and the Congress- 
Street grounds (Rowe’s Wharf horse-cars). 

Carriages. — 50 cts. each passenger for a course within the city proper; SI 
from points S. of Dover St. or W. of Berkeley St., to points N. of State, Court, and 
Cambridge Sts. (50 cts. for each additional passenger). From midnight until 6 
a. m. double the above rates. A tariff of the legal fares is in each carriage, ller- 
dics charge 25 cts. a course. 

Street-Cars (fare 5 cts.) traverse the city in all directions. Tremont St., be¬ 
tween Temple Place and the Tremont House, Bowdoin Sq., and Scollay Sq. (corner 
Court and Tremont Sts ) are the principal centres of horse-car traffic. Cars leave 
the Tremont House every few minutes lor the Northern Depots, Chelsea Ferry, Mt. 
Pleasant (in Dorchester), Warren St (Roxbury), Grove Hall, Dorchester, Norfolk 
House (Boxbury), Egleston Square, Forest Hill, Lenox St., Jamaica Plain, Brook¬ 
line, Beacon St.,and E. Boston. Also from Temple Place to Dudley St. (Roxbury), 
and Grove Hall via Shawmut Ave. From Scollay Sq., cars run to South Boston, 
City Point, Bay View, Charlestown Neck, Bunker Hill, Malden, Winter Hill, Med¬ 
ford, Union Squaie (Somerville), Chelsea, Revere Beach, Lynn, and Swampscott. 

From foot of Summer St , cars to Dorchester and Milton. From Bowdoin 
Sq., cars on routes to the western suburbs, Cambridgeport, Riverside Press, Brigh¬ 
ton, Newton Corner, Harvard Sq. (University), Mount Auburn, Watertown, Arling¬ 
ton. Somerville (via Craigie's Bridge). Cars also pass from Washington St. to At¬ 
lantic Ave. and the piers of the harbor and coast steamboats. 

Steamship* leave Boston as follows: — For Portland, daily, from India Wharf; 
for Eastport and St. John, tri-weekly, from Commercial Wharf; for Bangor, tri¬ 
weekly, from Lincoln’s Wharf: for Halifax, semi weekly, from Nickerson’s Wharf; 
for New York, tri-weekly, from Central Wharf (freight line); for Philadelphia, semi- 
weekly, from Long Wharf; for Norfolk and Baltimore, semi-weekly, from Central 
Wharf: for Savannah, weekly, from Nickerson’s Wharf; for Liverpool (Cunard 
Line), every Saturday, from the Cunard Wharf, East Boston. Also steamboats for 
the Kennebec,Gloucester, Provincetown, Plymouth, Nahant, Revere Beach, and the 
landings in Boston Harbor. Sailing packets connect Boston with nearly every port 
of New England. 



BOSTON. 


Route 1. 7 


Boston (Shawmut. or “ Sweet Waters "), the Puritan City, was first settled 
by a recluse Anglican clergyman, Wiliam Blackstone, about the year 1623. The 
adventurous colonists who landed at Salem, in 1630, soon moved a large party to 
Charlestown ; but, finding no water there, they crossed to the peninsula of Shawmut, 
under the leadership of Isaac Johnson, landing on the present site of Boston, 
September 7 (O. S.), 1630. The name Boston was given to the place by order of 
the Court, in honor of that English city from which came Johnson and John 
Cotton, two of the early church fathers of the new settlement.* 

In 1634 Blackstone, declaring “ I came from England because I did not like 
the lord bishops, but I can’t join with you, because I would not be under the 
lords brethren,” sold the peninsula to the colonists for £30, and went into the 
wilderness. Governor Winthrop had previously constituted Boston the capital 
of the colony, ami a strong tide of immigration set in. In 1631 the barque 
“ Blessing of the Bay” was launched ; in 1632 the first church was built ; and in 
1636-38 Harvard College was founded. In 1663 Josselyn writes : “ The buildings 
are handsome, joining one to the other as in London, with many large streets, 
most of them paved with pebble-stones. In the high street towards the Com¬ 
mon there are faire houses, some of stone,” &c., — a great change since 1630, when 
one declared it to be “ a hideous wilderness, possessed by barbarous Indians, 
very cold, sickly, rocky, barren, unfit for culture, and like to keep the people 
miserable.” In the Pequot War of 1637, and King Philip’s War (1670 - 76), Boston 
bore a large share, and hundreds of prisoners were guarded there. “ Philadelphia 
was a forest, and New York was an insignificant village, long after its rival (Bos¬ 
ton) had become a great commercial town.” 

The town gave men and money freely in defence of the frontiers against the 
Franco-Indian attacks, and fleet after fleet left its harbor to do battle on the 
eastern coasts. In 1704 the first American newspaper (the “ Boston News-Let¬ 
ter ”) appeared here ; in 1710 a massive wall of brick and stone foundation, with 
cannon on its parapets, and with two strong gates, was built across the isthmus, 
or neck, on the south, near the present Dover St. This, with the walls on 
on the water-front, 2,200 feet long, 15 feet high, and 20 feet thick, and the forts on 
Castle Island and Fort Hill, effectually guarded against attacks by the Dutch or 
French. In 1711, 5,000 of Marlborough’s veterans, and a large Provincial force, 
encamped at East Boston, and thence sailed on Admiral Walker’s disastrous ex¬ 
pedition against Quebec. In 1739 sailed the fleet destined to attack Cuba, and 
of 500 men sent from the Massachusetts colony but 50 ever returned. Meantime 
France had erected a powerful fortress at Louisbourg, far in the north, and 4,100 
soldiers, in 13 vessels, mounting 204 guns, sailed from Boston in 1745. They 
were joined at Canseau by 10 royal frigates; the “Massachusetts,” 24, captured 
the French frigate “ Vigilant,” 64 ; and after firing 9,600 cannon-shot into Louis¬ 
bourg it surrendered, with 2,000 men and 76 heavy guns. Restored to France by 
London treaty-makers, the work had to be done over again, and in 1758 Amherst 
and Boscawen gathered a royal and provincial army and fleet at Boston, attacked 
Louisbourg with 7,000 men and 57 sail, lost 400 men, and took the fortress, with 
5,600 soldiers, 39 heavy guns, 6 line-of-battle ships, and several frigates. In 
1745 the Duke d’Anville, with 16 ships of the line, 95 frigates, and a large army, 
was sent to retake Louisbourg and demolish Boston. A frightful storm shattered 
this armada, but he landed a strong force at Halifax, which annihilated a Massachu¬ 
setts army in a battle at Grand Pr6, and filled Boston with mourners. The feel¬ 
ing of discontent which had been growing since the forfeiture of the colonial 
charters in 1688, and which had been increased by arbitrary acts of royal gov¬ 
ernors and of the London cabinet, arose rapidly in 1762-65, on the passage 
of the “ Writs of Assistance ” and the Stamp Act. In 1768 two royal regi- 

* Boston, in Lincolnshire, Eng., was founded in 050 by St. Botolph (boat-help), a pious 
Saxon and the patron-saint of English sailors. 


8 Louie 1. 


BOSTON. 


ments from Halifax moved into the town, and riots and outrages began to be 
frequent. Reinforcements were sent again and again to the garrison, and Lieu¬ 
tenant-General Gage, the commander of the British forces, was appointed (1774) 
Governor of Massachusetts. Then ensued the.gathering of the patriot armies at 
Cambridge, the blockade of the city, and consequent distress among its people, 
and the bombardments from the American lines. When Lord Howe was forced 
to evacuate the city, March 17, 177(5, 3,000 loyalists chose to go with him, and on 
the same day the Americans took possession of battered and hungry and depopu¬ 
lated Boston. 

Since the close of the Revolution the city has been engaged in great internal 
improvements, the construction of a network of railroads to all parts of New 
England, and the preservation and extension of its commerce. Great manufac¬ 
turing interests centred here, and the city boundaries were again and again en¬ 
larged. In June, 1872, the Universal Peace Jubilee was held here (as projec ed 
and managed by P. S. Gilmore) in an immense wooden building on the Back Bay. 
This edifice (called the Coliseum) was 550 feet long, 350 feet wide, and 115 feet 
high, thus having an area greater than that of the Milan and Cologne Cathe¬ 
drals united, or of St. Paul’s (London) and St. Sophia (Constantinople) united. 
The Roman Coliseum held 87,000 spectators, but the Boston Coliseum could 
accommodate only 40,000 to 50,000. Great galleries ran around the hall, parlors,&c., 
were plentiful, and a forest of flags and national symbols was draped within and 
floated outside. Strong forces of police, firemen, and artillerists were constantly 
on duty at the Coliseum. Some of the music was emphasized by the booming of 
cannon near the building and the ringing of the city bells, while a large company 
of uniformed firemen accompanied the oft-repeated Anvil Chorus with ringing 
blows on anvils. Strauss, the Austrian composer of waltzes, and violinist, Mes- 
dallies Peschka-Leutner, Rudersdorff, and Goddard were there ; also the bands of 
the English Grenadier Guards, the French Garde P^publicaine, and the Prussian 
Kaiser Franz Grenadier Regiment. These were aided by a grand orchestra of 2,000 
musicians, and a chorus of 1(55 well-drilled societies, comprising 20,000 voices. 
The Jubilee lasted for 3 weeks (without accident or mischance), and was varied 
by a great Presidential Ball. Early in the next year the Coliseum was taken 
down. 

The rapid extension of commerce, and the concentration of great manufacturing 
agencies in the city, produced a corresponding flow of wealth and growth of 
stately architecture. The streets between the Common and the Harbor, between 
Summer and State Sts., were lined with lofty and ornate commercial houses, 
unsurpassed elsewhere in the world, and crowded with valuable goods. There 
were tiers of streets lined with massive granite structures, which seemed as un¬ 
in flammable as ravines in the solid rock. About 7 o’clock on the warm, moonlit 
evening of November 9, 1872, a lire broke out in a building on the corner of Kings¬ 
ton and Summer Sts. It speedily crept up from the lower story and tunied 
the Mansard roof into a sea of flame. The fire started thence in three direc¬ 
tions, and, fanned by the gale which it had formed, it swept up and down 
Summer St., and through the lateral avenues into Franklin St. and Winthrop 
Sq. The firemen, although heroically active, were driven before it, until early 
Sunday morning, when several buildings were blown up. About this time 
the fire was checked in its southward progress, and the whole Fire Depart- 



stiee.t, and saved the Old South Church, which was scorched and strewn with 
sparks^ During the day the fone at hand was directed on two points, the new 
U. S. Post Office on Devonshire Street, and the Merchant’s Exchange, and in 
the narrow streets between Broad and Kilby Sts. Repulsed from the first two 
points, and after a time checked in its advance toward Kilby St. the fire sank 
ia]>nlh under the cataracts of water which were being poured upon it from the 
steam-engines massed along State St. By mid-afternoon the danger was over 
and many of the out-of-town engines were sent home. In less than 24 hours the 
richest quarter of Boston, covering about 50 acres, had been swept away and 
nothing remained of those massive piles of granite and brick save a few ragged 
and tottering fragments of wall. The loss was not far from 870 000 000 ^To 
keep out the swarms of thieves, and to prevent the citizens and the scores of 
thousands of visitors from imperilling themselves, three regiments of State troops 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 9 


were called out. who formed a line of guards around the burnt district, which was 
thus picketed, and held under martial law for many days. Less than thirty lives 
were lost during the lire. The rapid and resistless spread of the conflagration 
(which would have been impossible in a European city) has been attributed to 
the narrow streets, the thin partition walls, and the universal use of lofty Man¬ 
sard roof's built of light timber and planking, and too high from the street to be 
reached by the water from the engines. “ The best treasure of Boston cannot be 
burnt up. Her grand capital of culture and character, science and skill, humanity 
and religion, is beyond the reach of flame. Sweep away every store and ho i 
every school and church, and let the people, with their history and habits, i 
main, and they still have one of the richest and strongest cities on earth." 

Boston, the capital of the State of Massachusetts, and the metropoli 
of New England, is one of the most ancient and famous of the Amen- . 
cities. Its colonial and Revolutionary epochs were filled with hidden > 
of rare heroism and surpassing interest, while the later and more peace¬ 
ful years have been rich in the triumphs of commerce and industry. Al¬ 
though it has lost its former commercial supremacy, it still ranks as the 
second American city in this regard, and is carrying through vast railroad 
projects in order to keep its position. It is built on a deep inlet at the 
head of Massachusetts Bay, and favorably situated either for foreign traf¬ 
fic or for its vast trade with the manufacturing towns of New England. 
So the city has grown rapidly, its population of 30,049 in the year 1800, 
and 70,713 in 1830, having increased by 1890 to 448.477, with a valuation 
of $ 672,500,000. The cramped limits of the peninsula being too narrow, 
large tracts of land have been added by filling up the tide-water Hats and 
coves, and by the annexation and settlement of neighboring towns. In 
spite of its frequent fires and rapid changes, Boston has more of a Euro¬ 
pean appearance than any other American city, and it has also a calm, 
cold, and reserved aristocracy of old families. The intellectual and musi¬ 
cal culture of its citizens is renowned, and the most radical and advanced 
schools of politics, philosophy, and religion find their home here. As for 
the numerous charitable houses of the city, they have generally won the 
highest praise, even the censorious Dickens saying : “I sincerely believe 
that the public institutions and charities of this capital of Massachusetts 
are as nearly p<#fect as the most considerate wisdom, humanity, and 
benevolence can make them.” The district lying between State, Goiut, 
and Cambridge Sts. and the waters of Charles River and the Harbor, 
was, in the olden time, the most important part of the city, although it is 
now given to the purposes of trade and the dwellings of the lower classes. 
Commercial St., forming 3 sides of a square, bounds a great part of it, 
and opens on a continuous line of wharves. The great Northern depots 
of the Lowell Railroad (for Vermont and Montreal), the Eastern Rail¬ 
road, the Fitchburg, and the Boston and Maine Railroad, are situated near 

each other, on and near Causeway St. 

Copp’s Hill, in the northeast part, was the site of a British fort, which 
took an active part in the Bunker Hill battle, in 1775, and burned 


10 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


Charlestown with a shower of hot shot. The ancient burying-ground 
first used in 1660 occupies the brow of the hill, and has been sacredly 
preserved. Here are buried three fathers of the Puritan Church, Drs. 
Increase, Cotton, and Samuel Mather. The cemetery is open to the 
public. 

Near Copp’s Hill, on Salem St., is Christ Church (Episcopal), the 
oldest church edifice in the city (consecrated in 1723). A fine chime of 
bells is in the tower, and its music is almost coeval with the church. 
Near the West Boston Bridge is the large granite building of the Massa¬ 
chusetts General Hospital, a noble charitable institution with 

rich endowments. 

* Faneuil Hall, “The Cradle of American Liberty,” was built 

and given to the city in 1742, by Peter Faneuil, a Huguenot merchant. 
It was burnt in 1761, and rebuilt in time to serve the British 14th 
Regiment for barracks (1768). During the later popular excitements 
many stirring orations were made here, until, during the siege of 1775 - 76, 
the royal officers turned it into a theatre. The Hall, 76 feet square 
and 28 feet high, has no seats, and will accommodate a great audience. 
In time of great military or political emergencies, the men of Boston 
flock to Faneuil Hall by thousands. Here are copies of some good por¬ 
traits : Peter Faneuil, Sargent; George Washington, Stuart; Commo¬ 
dore Preble, General Warren, John Q. Adams, * Webster replying to 
Hayne, Ilealy ; Edward Everett, Abraham Lincoln, John A. Andrew, 

* Samuel Adams, Copley (his masterpiece); and others. Fronting Fan¬ 

euil Hall is the (586 ft.) long granite building of the Quincy Market, 
where all kinds of meat, fish, fruit, and vegetables are exposed in 
tempting profusion. Not far from the Market is the *U. S. Custom 
House, perhaps the most massive and imposing building in Bos¬ 

ton. It was built 1837 - 49, at a cost of nearly $ 1,100,000, and its walls, 
roof, and dome are of granite. The building is in the form of a Greek 
cross, and is surrounded by 32 immense columns, 5 ft. thick and 32 
ft. high. The great granite warehouses (State St. Block, &c.) in the 
vicinity are worthy of attention ; and the handsome new Chamber of Com¬ 
merce. The great office-structures of the State-Street Exchange, the Mas- 
sachusetts-Hospital Life-Insurance Co., and the Fisk, Sears, and Ames 
buildings give a metropolitan air to State Street. The Wall Street of 
Boston, the haunt of its bankers and brokers, is the part of State Street 
between Broad Street and the Old State House. 

This ancient edifice was built in 1748, and long used by the legislature of 
the colony. On March 5,1770, a collision occurred between the towns¬ 
people and the British main-guard stationed here, and a volley was fired, 
killing four and wounding many of the crowd. This affair was called the 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 11 


“ Boston Massacre,” and the soldiers were tried before the Colonial Court 
on the charge of murder, and exonerated. The old Council Chamber and 
Representatives’ Hall have been restored by the Bostonian Society, and 
contain an interesting museum of colonial pictures and antiquities (open 
free, daily from 9.30 to 5). The great Ames and Sears Buildings tower 
over the Old State House. Just above, on Court Sq., is the heavy front 
of the Suffolk-Countv Court House, back of which, and fronting on School 
St., is the *City Hall, built in 18G2-65. $160,000 were appropriated to 
build it, and it cost really more than $500,000. It is of white Concord 
granite, in the Italian Renaissance architecture, with 138 ft. front, and 95 
ft. height, the Louvre dome which is the headquarters of the tire-alarm 
being 109 ft. high. The Council Chambers are fine, and so is the whole 
interior arrangement. In front of the City Hall is a bronze statue of Ben¬ 
jamin Franklin , 8 ft. high, on a base of verde antique and granite, with 
historic bronze medallions on the sides. The artist was R. S. Greenough, 
and the means of its erection ($20,000) were raised by the people. 

Benjamin Franklin was born in Boston in 1706. He was apprenticed to his 
brother, a printer, but ran away to Philadelphia in 172:1. There he rose steadily 
until in 1764 he was sent to England as colonial agent, when, in 1766, he spoke 
before the House of Commons, and die Stamp Act was repealed. Elected to 
Congress, he was on the committee on the Declaration of Independence, and 
signed that document. From 1776 to 17*S5 he was Minister to France, with which 
he procured the treaty of alliance of 177S which saved the Republic. His later 
works were of diplomacy and philanthropy, and lie founded the Abolition So¬ 
ciety. He invented the harmonica, and the Franklin stove : and in 1752 found 
the identity of lightning and the electric fluid by means of a kite. His scientific 
labors won him high honor in Europe. 

Opposite the City Hall is the Parker House, and to the right is King's 
Chapel. Here also is the statue of Mayor Quincy. 

On Washington St. (corner of Milk St.) stands the Old South Church, 
the shrine of Boston. It was built in 1729, on the site of a cedar- 
wood church which had been built in 1669. The exciting meetings of 
the people in the late colonial days were held here, and thence marched 
the disguised men to the attack on the tea ships (Dec. 13th, 1773). In 
1775 the pews were removed, and a riding-school for the British cavalry 
was here formed, the interior being well packed with gravel, and a liquor 
saloon being placed in one of the galleries. The church was restored in 
1782, and contained (until 1873) two galleries, many square “ pues on ye 
lower fiore,” and a pulpit overarched by a sounding-board. Externally it 
was plain, with a high spire, and a clock. “ More eyes are upturned to 
its clock daily than to any other timekeeper in New England.’ Franklin 
was baptized here (in the older church); Whitefield has preached here , 
for one hundred and sixty years the election sermons (before the legisla¬ 
ture, council, and governor) have been delivered here ; it was saved, by 
• deathless heroism, from the Great Fire ; and in June, 1876, the society 
which owned this venerable building took the extraordinary step of 


12 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


selling it at auction. The building is now owned by a patriotic associa¬ 
tion, and contains a rare museum of curiosities. 

The * U. S. Post-Office extends from Milk St. to Water St., and has a 
front of 200 ft. on Devonshire St. It is built of Cape-Anti granite, in 
Mr. Mullet’s Renaissance architecture, with an immense Mansard roof 
and corner pavilions. Its great size, and the fineness of the materials, 
render this an imposing building. The front on Milk St. was so much 
cracked and injured in the Great Fire (against which the structure was 
well defended), that much of it had to be rebuilt. On the second floor is 
the U. S. Treasury, occupying a richly adorned hall (open from 10 to 2), 
,50 ft. high, with 8 large chandeliers. The adjacent safe usually contains 
$ 14-20,000,000 in coin and treasury-notes. In the corridor are sets of 
coast-survey and postal-route maps. The extension of this building to 
Post-Office Square is 

220 ft. long and 102 ft. high, with side towers 132 ft. high, and a central 
tower 190 ft. high, overarching the lofty main entrance and adorned with 
statuary. This extension will necessarily harmonize with the older part 
of the building, though in richer and more picturesque architecture. 

Since the Great Fire of 1872 over $ 100,000,000 have been spent in re¬ 
building the burnt district, resulting in an architectural display which is 
probably unsurpassed in America. Large structures of harmonious de¬ 
sign and admirable taste have been erected, with beautiful combinations 
of various colored stones, and costly practical appliances for business and 
security. 

The Mutual Life Insurance Company of Now York has a superb 

building on Post-Office Square, which has been built of Tuckahoe mar¬ 
ble, at a cost of $ 900,000. It has G3£ ft. of frontage on the square, and 
127 ft. on Pearl St. ; and is provided with massive vaults, three elevators, 
brick-arched floors, and iron sashes and shutters. It is absolutely fire¬ 
proof. The architecture is in modern French detail ; and the chief orna¬ 
ment of the building is a graceful and richly carved white-marble tower 
130 ft. high, containing an alarm bell and adorned with a brass railing. 

lhe New-England Mutual Life Insurance Company has a stately 
building, adjoining the before-mentioned, with a frontage of f»0 ft. on 
1 ost-Office Square, and 181 ft. on Congress St. It is of Concord granite, 

7 stories high, with brick-arched floors and elevators. The basement 
contains the impregnable vaults of the Boston Safe-Deposit Company ; 
the first floor is occupied by three banks ; the second floor by the New- 
Lngland Mutual Life Ins. Co. ; and the remainder by miscellaneous offi¬ 
ces. I he architecture is Renaissance, and the Mansard roof contains two 
stories. A group of colossal allegorical statues crowns the main facade. * 
This great edifice (with its land) cost nearly $1,000,000. 

The Equitable Life Assurancs Society has an immense building at 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 12 a. 


the cornel' of Federal and Milk Sts., opposite the Post-Office, on the site 
of Robert Treat Paine’s house. It is of Quincy and Hallowell granite, 
on ponderous brick walls, with impervious concrete doors, brick parti¬ 
tions, and an iron roof. Ingeniously guarded safe-deposit vaults occupy 
the basements, banks and offices the main building and its far-viewing up¬ 
per stories. There are 7 stories 

above the basements, with three elevators, and marble stairways and cor¬ 
ridors. This company has risks amounting to $ 180,000,000. Elevators 
lead to the roof, whence is obtained a superb view of the harbor and en¬ 
virons. 

The Rialto Building (corner of Devonshire and Milk Sts.), the Sim¬ 
mons Building (Congress and Water Sts.), and many other commercial 
palaces in this quarter will attract admiration. Devonshire St. runs from 
the Post-Office by several imposing structures to Winthrop Square, on 
which fronts the highly ornate Cathedral Building , which was burned out 
in December, 1879, with a vast number of books. 

On the site of this edifice stood the ancient Cathedral of the Holy Cross, the 
scene of the labors of Bishop Cheverus (afterwards Cardinal and Archbishop of 
Bordeaux) and Bishop Fenwick. It was a great building in Ionic architecture, de¬ 
signed by Bulfineh. The first Puritan church in Boston was built in 1632, at the 
corner of State and Devonshire Sts. ; and on the corner of Federal and Franklin 
Sts. was the church which was established by the Presbyterians, and in which 
Belknap, Channing, and Gannett preached. 

The visitor should also notice the superb Gothic building of white and 
black marble, extending along Franklin St. from Devonshire St. to Arch 
St., and pertaining to the Sears Estate. The Franklin and Brewer Build¬ 
ings, and others in this vicinity, are worthy of close inspection. The 
wholesale book and paper trade has settled near Franklin St., up to 
Washington St., and in the adjacent Hawley St. Pearl St. and parts of 
Congress and High Sts. are famous all over the Union as the great centre 
of the boot and shoe trade. The wholesale dry-goods and millinery 
establishments are mostly on or near Summer St. The large shipping- 
houses are on and near the new and commodious water-front highway of 
A tlantic A venue. 

Washington St. is the main thoroughfare of Boston. On and near its 
line, between State and Franklin Sts., are the chief newspaper-offices and 
railroad-agencies. The Daily Advertiser and Record occupy the hand¬ 
some marble-front building, 240 and 248 Washington Street, and in the 
same region stand the immense buildings of the Herald and Globe , and 
several other well-known newspapers. In times of popular excitement, this 
part of Washington Street is packed full of people eagerly watching the 
bulletin-boards, for election returns or other telegraphic news. At the cor¬ 
ner of Milk Street is the venerable Old South Church, opposite the Tran¬ 
script Building and Franklin Building (on whose site Benjamin Franklin 
was born). Winter St. diverges to the r., and is the headquarters of the 
retail trade in dry-goods and millinery, and a favorite shopping-place. Be- 


12 6. Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


yornl West St. are the chief theatres, with several large new 
commercial buildings of attractive architecture. Beyond Boylston 
St. Washington St. passes on into the South End, growing wider 
and straighter as it emerges from the older part of the city. The di¬ 
verging streets are lined with residences, and dotted with churches and 
schools. 

St. James’ Church (Roman Catholic) is on Harrison Ave., 

and is in Romanesque architecture. The interior is in the purest form 
of a classical basilica, the clerestory (reserved for the clergy) being up¬ 
held by 16 tall columns of Aberdeen granite. There are 3 altars of white 
marble ; and the chancel-windows are of rich stained glass. The frescos 
represent scenes from the life of St. James. The church is 175 ft. long and 
75 ft. wide. The Church of the Holy Trinity is on Shawmut Ave., 
and is of stone, in Gothic architecture, with a lofty and graceful spire. 
The Hollis-St. Church (Unitarian) is an antiquated structure occupy¬ 
ing the place of a still older church (built in 1732). Among the clergy¬ 
men of this society were Byle.-, West, Holley, Rierpont, and Starr King. 
The church building was abandoned in 1883, and remodelled into a theatre. 

Trum Boylston Market Boylston St. runs out past the Common. 
At the corner of Tremont St., and facing the Common, is the great 
Masonic Temple, built 1864-07. The lirst Masonic Lodge in America met 
in Boston in 1733, since when the order has steadily grown, save during 
the days of the Anti-Masonic party. The Temple is a lofty edifice of 
granite, built in such forms of mediaeval architecture as “ to suggest the 
most effective poetical and historical associations connected with the Ma¬ 
sonic institution.” The interior contains Corinthian, Egyptian, and Gothic 
Halls, besides banqueting-rooms, &c. Opposite the Temple is the large 
and elegant Hotel Boylston in 

the Italian-Gothic style. The lofty brownstone building of the Hotel 
Pelham is on the opposite corner, next door to which is the * Boston Pub¬ 
lic Library, in a so-called fire-proof building of brick and sandstone. 
This Library contains 570,000 volumes, and 300,000 pamphlets, and is the 
largest in America, except the Library of Congress. The Lower Hall is 
devoted to popular books and a reading-room, while the noble Bates Hall, 
above, is reserved for more substantial works. All these rooms are open 
to the public, and any one can take books and read there, though only resi¬ 
dents of the city can take books from the building. The walls of the rooms 
are covered with pictures, which form part of the collection of engravings 
formerly owned by Cardinal Tosti. 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 13 


The Trernont-St. side of the Common is fronted by many bright 
shops, the musical headquarters of “Piano Row,” and .a perpetual 
procession of slow horse-cars. Near the corner of Tremont and Winter 
Sts. is St. Paul’s Episcopal Church, of gray granite, with 6 columns 
of Potomac sandstone upholding a classic pediment. Near this, at the 
corner of Park St. (formerly called Brimstone Corner), is Park-Street 
Church, an old Puritan meeting-house, the citadel and stronghold of 
Orthodoxy. Adjoining the Church is the Old Granary Burying-Ground, 
where are buried Governor Bellingham (died 1673) and 8 other colonial 
and State governors, 2 signers of the Declaration of Independence, 
6 famous divined, Peter Faneuil, who gave the Ilall to Boston, Paul 
Revere, the Revolutionary hero, Chief Justice Samuel Sewall, John 
Hancock (see Quincy), and Samuel Adams. 

Samuel Adams, born at Boston in 1722, was one of the leaders of the people in 
the agitations of 1764 - 75, and was proscribed by the royal government. In 1769 
he advocated the independence of America, and during the Revolution directed 
the measures of Congress in the Northern war. “ Though poor, Samuel Adams 
possessed a lofty and incorruptible spirit, was pure in morals, and grave and austere 
in manner, though warm in his feelings. As a speaker, lie was pure, concise, 
logical, and impressive ; and the energy of his diction was not inferior to the 
strength of his mind.” The State has placed his statue in the Capitol at Wash¬ 
ington. A granite pyramid is over the remains of Franklin’s parents. 

Opposite the Church, beyond the Phillips Building and Episcopal head¬ 
quarters on Hamilton Place, is seen the. plain wall of Music Hall. The 
entrances are from 15 Winter St. and from the foot of Hamilton Place. 
This is one of the most elegant and well-arranged halls in America, and has 
rare acoustic properties. In this hall stood the largest organ in the New 
World, containing 5,474 pipes and 84 complete registers, and encased 
in an elegant frame, with a colossal statue of Beethoven in the fore¬ 
ground. The organ was built by Herr Walcker, of Ltidwigsburg, 
1857-63, at a cost of 15 60,000. It was taken down in 1884, and care¬ 
fully stored away. Farther along Tremont St., on the right, is the 
elegant white granite building of the Horticultural Hall, with a many- 
columned front, — Doric in the first story, Ionic in the second, and Corin¬ 
thian in the third. The rich cornice is surmounted by a colossal Ceres, a 
copy from the ancient statue in the Vatican; while on piers, at the cor¬ 
ners of the second story, are statues of Flora and Pomona. Fairs, floral 
shows, and lectures are held in the spacious halls above. Alongside the 
Hall is the Studio Building, the home of many local artists. 

Tremont Temple comes next, with a plain Palladian front, and a great 
hall, which is used on Sunday by a Baptist church, and during the week 
for lectures, readings, etc. On the same side of the street is King's 
Chapel, built in 1754, by the Episcopalians, on the site of the first church 
of that sect in Boston (built 16S9). King’s Chapel was deserted by its 


14 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


people when Gage and the Loyalists left the town, and was occupied by 
the Old South Society. At a later day, influenced by their rector, Rev. 
James Freeman, the few remaining churchmen revised their liturgy, strik¬ 
ing out all Trinitarianism, and formed themselves into the first Unitarian 
church in Boston. Next to' this Church is the buryiug-ground used by 
the Puritans from 1630 onward. Isaac Johnson, “The Father of Bos 
ton,” was buried here ere the first year of the settlement was ended. 
About him his people were buried for many years. In one tomb is Go- 
ernor John Winthrop, and his two sons, who were governors of Connecticut 

John Winthrop, a pious lawyer of Suffolk, led a colony to Salem in 1030. lie 
moved his people to Boston and built up that place, where h« ruled as Governor 
of Massachusetts, 1030-34, 1037-40, 1042-44, 1040-49. lie was an amiable gen¬ 
tleman, a firm ruler, and a believer in moderate aristocratic principles, stating in 
his letter to the people of Connecticut, that “the best part of a community is 
always the least, and of that part the wiser are still less.” 

Other noted Puritans are buried here, and in the church are monuments 
to the families of Aptlmrp, Shirley, and Vassall. 

Beyond the cemetery is a granite building, partly occupied by the 
Massachusetts Historical Society, which has a library of 30,000 books, 
and 800 volumes of MSS. Many ancient portraits (Increase Mather, 
Sebastian Cabot, &c.) adorn the walls, while relics of Washington and 
the Puritan governors, and of King Philip, the chair of Winslow, the 
swords of Church and of Governor Carver, are carefully preserved here.. 
The New England Historic-Genealogical Society (18 Somerset St.) has a 
fine library, and a small collection of curiosities. 

The Congregational-Club rooms and Pilgrim Hall are at the corner of 
Beacon and Somerset Sts. The Congregational Library is here, in the 
fire-proof Hitchcock Hall, and has 30,000 volumes and 130,000 pam¬ 
phlets, with numerous portraits of ancient divines. The American Board 
of Commissioners for Foreign Missions also has its offices and museum 
in the Congregational House. The New-Churcli Union has a library 
and reading-room at No. 16 Arlington St.; and the Episcopal Church 
Association is at 5 Hamilton Place. The Methodist headquarters is 
at 38 Bromfield St.; the American Unitarian Association, 25 Beacon 
St; and the Baptist societies at Tremont Temple. The General Theo¬ 
logical Library (6 Mt. - Vernon St.) and the old Boston Library (18 
Boy I-ton Place) are much used, and the reading-rooms of the Young 
Men’s Christian Association (Berkeley and Boy Eton Sts.) and the Young 
Men’s Christian Union (No. 20 Bovlston St.) are pleasant, and freely 
open. 1 he British, Irish, Scotch, Germans, and Italians have be¬ 
nevolent societies. In Boston there are 30 lodges, 8 chapters, and 6 
commanderies of Masons, 37 lodges and 10 encampments of Odd Fel¬ 
low's, 15 divisions of Sons of Temperance, 9 Temples of Honor, 
13 lodges of Good Templars, 14 posts of the Grand Army of the 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 15 


Republic, 15 lodges of the Knights of Pythias, and 4 lodges of the Haru- 
gari (Germans). 

On Tremont, near School St., is the Boston Museum (entrance fee, 
30 cts.) where, in a lofty hall, a great number of rare things are 
shown, embracing curiosities from all parts of the world, casts, wax-fig¬ 
ures, scores of portraits of eminent Americans (by West, Copley, Stuart, 
etc.), and Sully’s great picture of Washington crossing the Delaware. 

Boston Common. When the peninsula of Shawmut (now Boston) was 
bought from Blackstone for £30, in the year 1634, this tract was reserved by the 
colonists for a training-ground (parade) and pasture. Every attempt since made 
to occupy portions of it has been repulsed, except in the early days, when the 
ground between Park, Beacon, and Tremont Sts. was taken. Special care was 
taken, in 1S22, when the city was formed, to withhold from the municipal gov¬ 
ernment the power of alienating any part of the Common. Between 1656 and 
1660 several persons were executed here on the charge of witchcraft, and for one 
hundred and fifty years after executions took place on the Common. During the 
summer of 1676 many scores of Indians caught red-handed were put to death 
here, among whom was the insurgent chief Matoonus. Thirty were executed in 
one day, and their heads were fastened on stakes and left in public places. About 
this time (1675) the traveller Josselyn speaks of it as “ a small but pleasant Com¬ 
mon, where the Gallants, a little before sunset, walk with their Marmalet- 
Madams, till the bell at 9 o’clock rings them home. In 1728 occuri’ed a fatal 
duel, under the Old Elm, whereupon a law was passed, that persons killed in 
duels should be denied Christian burial, and should be buried transfixed with a 
stake. If the duel was not fatal, both parties should stand on the gallows one 
hour with a rope about their necks, and then be imprisoned for one year. So the 
so-called code of honor passed from the social system of Massachusetts. In 1749 
George Whitefield preached to 20,000 persons in one body on the Common. 
During the American siege of Boston a British fort was built on the hill near 
the Elm Tree, which drew some of Washington’s heavy shot. Races, parades, 
and military executions were meanwhile held here. The garrison of the town in 
1812 encamped here, and so late as 1830 it was a cow-pasture enclosed by a two- 
railed fence. In 1836 the present iron-fence (1| M. long) was built, and cattle 
were excluded. In the days of the Rebellion the assembling troops paraded here, 
and in the Great Fire of 1872 vast mounds of saved goods were piled along the 
malls and on the lawns. 

Boston Common contains about 48 acres, and is rich in lawns and 
noble trees. No carriages are allowed to enter, and tlie walks are filled 
with people on pleasant summer evenings and Sundays. Under the 
stately elms of the Beacon and Tremont St. Malls are favorite prome¬ 
nades. Near Park St. is the Brewer fountain, made in Paris, and em¬ 
bellished with bronze statues of Neptune and Ampliitrite, Acis and Gal¬ 
atea. Copies of this fountain have been made for the cities of Lyons, 
Bordeaux, and Alexandria (Egypt). The Frog Pond has a large foun¬ 
tain, supplied from Cochituate Lake, and near it stood the Old Elm, 
a venerable tree which antedated the foundation of the city, and was 
carefully preserved until Feb. 15, 1876, when it was blown down. 
On Flagstaff Hill , near the place of the Old Elm, the Soldiers’ Monu¬ 
ment has been built, over 90 ft. high, with historical reliefs, etc. ; and 
at the four comers heroic statues of Peace, History, the Army, and 
the Navy. Above stand allegorical figures,— the North, South, East, 


16 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


and West, — and above all a colossal America, resting on a hemisphere, 
guarded by four eagles, with the flag in her left hand, and wreaths and a 
sheathed sword in her right. 

The west part of the Common is smooth and bare, and is 
reserved for a parade-ground and a ball-ground for the boys. 

The Public Garden lies west of the Common, and contains 22 acres. 
In 1794, 6 ropewalks were built here, on tide-water flats, and most of 
the improvements have been made during the past 25 years. In its 
centre is a beautiful artificial serpentine pond oi 4 acres, crossed by a fine 
bridge. Near Beacon St. is a bronze statue of Everett, by Story, mod¬ 
elled in Rome and cast in Munich. The monument to the discovery of 
anaesthetics (1868) is a rich and beautiful composition. * Venus rising 
from the Sea is a lovely work, from above which, when the waters play, 
a fine spray falls about the figure, which is sometimes called “the Maid 
of the Mist.” But the finest work of the kind in New England is the 
colossal equestrian * Statue of Washington, by Ball, which fronts on 
Commonwealth Ave. The statue is 22 ft. high, on a pedestal 16 ft. 
high. The bronze work was done at Chicopee, in this State. 

Commonwealth Ave. : — which is 1^ miles long and is 240 ft. 

wide, with a park in the middle — runs W. from the Public Garden, and 
is lined with fine mansions. A statue of Alexander Hamilton is in the 
park. Nearly all the land north of Tremont and west of Arlington St. 
has been reclaimed from the water, and is now the finest part of the city. 
The new streets are alphabetically named, yet they avoid the weak sound 
of the upper New York and Washington city streets, having sonorous old 
English titles, —Arlington, Berkeley, Clarendon, Dartmouth, Exeter, Fair- 
field’, Gloucester, &c. At the comer of Marlborough and Berkeley Streets 
is the* rich and elegant building (with English glass, a German organ, 
and an exquisite little cloister) of the First Church in Boston (Unita¬ 
rian). This society dates from 1630. Near by, on the corner of Berke¬ 
ley and Newbury Sts., is the miniature cathedral of the Central Congre¬ 
gational Society. It is of Roxbury stone, in cruciform shape, has a stone 
spire 240 ft. high, and is rich in lofty pointed windows, pinnacles, flying 
buttresses, &c. It cost $ 325,000. In this vicinity is the Emanuel Church 
(Episcopal) on Newbury St., and the fine brownstone Arlington St. 
Church (Unitarian) with its melodious chime of bells. 

The * Museum of Natural History has a handsome building of brick 
and brownstone, at the corner of Boylston and Berkeley Sts. The in¬ 
teresting collections of this society are open free to the public from 9 
until 5, on Wednesdays and Saturdays. 

In the entrance-hall are fossil foot-prints from the Connecticut Valley, and 
several immense crystals of beryl, from New Hampshire. On the r. are rooms 
containing brilliant collections of minerals and ores, favorably arranged for study 
and inspection. To the 1. of the entrance is the library of natural history, which 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 16 a. 


fs adorned with several portraits. The great hall of the museum is reached by 
ascending from the entrance-hall, and is imposing in its jiroportions. It contains 
casts of the megatherium and the fossil armadillo, many cabinets of shells and 
fossils, and the most extensive collection of mounted skeletons in America, rang¬ 
ing from those of the elephant, dromedary, elk, and whale, down to specimens of 
the smallest animals, wonderfully delicate in their formation. Rooms opening 
out of the great hall contain fossils of every kind, shells, skeletons, and large 
stuffed animals. The galleries of these rooms are devoted to sponges, polyps, 
acalephs, and echinoderms (S. E. room); and to botanical collections, mosses, 
fungi, cones, and nuts (N. rooms). 

The first tier of galleries in the main hall is devoted to butterflies and insects, 
shells and Crustacea, birds, reptiles, mollusks, and other large and interesting 
cabinets. The second tier of galleries, with the rooms diverging therefrom, is 
occupied by a magnificent collection of mounted birds, including thousands of 
specimens, in almost every variety of species and color, size and form. In con¬ 
nection with this brilliant display are numerous cabinets of birds’ nests and 
eggs. 

On the same square as the Museum of Natural History is the classic 
building of the Massachusetts Institute of Technology. This is a 
popular and richly endowed school of collegiate rank, whose object is to 
teach the application of science to the useful arts, for which purpose it is 
provided with extensive cabinets and apparatus. It has 120 professors 
and officers, and 1,000 students. In this vicinity are the Hotels Kempton and 
Berkeley, the Y. M. C. A. building, and the stately Hotel Brunswick. 

At the corner of Huntington Ave. and Clarendon St. is 
* Trinity Church (Episcopal), an immense struc¬ 

ture of Roxbury stone which has cost over $800,000. It is in the 
form of a Latin cross, with a semicircular apse, narrow aisles, and a 
retro-choir. Four massive piers sustain a central tower 57 ft. square, 
which, at the height of 150 ft., changes to an octagon pierced with 12 
windows. The top is 210 ft. above the floor. 

The adjacent chapel is joined to the church by an open cloister. Nearly 
opposite Trinity, on Boylston St., is the brownstone building of the 
Second Church (Unitarian), with a beau¬ 

tiful interior. The Chauncy-IIall School adjoins this structure. 

The new * Old South Church is at the corner of Boylston and Dart¬ 
mouth Sts., and is a superb edifice of Roxbury and Ohio stone, which 
has cost $ 475,000. It is in the form of a Latin cross, 90 X 198 ft. in 
area, and the architecture is the North-Italian Gothic. The great tower 
is an imposing structure, 248 ft. high, with rich combinations of colored 
stones, and graceful windows. An arcade runs thence to the S. transept. 
Along the front is a belt of gray sandstone, delicately carved to repre¬ 
sent vines and fruits, among which animals and birds are seen. I he ves¬ 
tibule is paved with red, white, and green marbles, and is separated from 
the nave by a carved screen of Caen stone, supported on columns of Lis¬ 
bon marble, and crowned by gables and tinials. At the intersection of 
the arms of the cross the roof opens up into a lantern, 20 ft. squaie, and 
forming on the outside a pointed dome of copper, partially gilded. I he 


16ft. Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


effect of the interior, finished in cherry, frescoed, and carved, is brilliant 
rather than solemn. The chancel-window cost $ 2,500, and represents 
the announcement of Christ’s birth to the shepherds. The S. transept 
window shows the five parables; that in the N. transept the five mira¬ 
cles ; and the windows of the nave show forth the prophets and apostles. 
The organ has 55 stops, and 3,240 pipes. 

The * Museum of Fine Arts is on Copley Square, on Dartmouth St. and 
Huntington Ave., and is to consist of a great pile of brick buildings 
around two open courts (each GO X 86 ft.). The exterior is adorned 
with roundels in English terra-cotta, containing portrait heads of emi- 
nent artists. The portico and front are now completed, and are singular 
pieces of architecture, the latter being adorned with a great terra-cotta 
bas-relief representing Art receiving the offerings of all nations. A com¬ 
panion relief showing the Union of Art and Industry has been placed 
on this front. An art school and library of high grade has been estab¬ 
lished in this building, under eminent patronage. There are two days 
each week when admission is free ; on other days 25c is charged. The 
basement contains offices and study-rooms. The first floor is given to 
sculpture, and has three halls, devoted respectively to Assyrian and Ar¬ 
chaic Greek art, Middle Greek sculptures, and the works of the Romans 
and Byzantines. In the corridor are mosaics, heads, grafiti, and other 
ornaments. The second floor is devoted mainly to paintings, which are 
contained in the large hall on the N. This collection includes the Millet 
and Hunt pictures, and many of the'best works belonging to private gal¬ 
leries in and near Boston, loaned temporarily by their owners. The 
Gray Collection of engravings is in a room opening from the gallery, be¬ 
yond which is a chamber which is fitted up with antique English wood- 
carvings. At the end of the gallery is a hall reserved for the display of 
articles of vertu, armor, ceramic ware, etc. 


The original works (numbers often changed) are, * Sortie from Gibraltar, Trum¬ 
bull (his masterpiece); Arch of Octavius, Bierstadt; Belshazzar’s Feast, Allston 
(“The American Titian”); Mount Washington, Gay ; * Isaac of York, Allston; 
Indian Captive, Weir; Angels appearing to Shepherds, Cole ; Priam and dead 
Hector, Trumbull; portraits of * Washington and his Wife, Stuart; Benjamin 
West, Allston; Daniel Webster. Chief Justice Marshall, Harding; William Tudor, 
Sidly ; the Raj all Rammohun Roy, Ji. Peale; William Wirt, Inman; * Count of 
Wurtemberg mourning over his Dead Son, Ary Schaefer; Storm at Sea, Hue; 
Garden of Love, Watteau; two fruit-pieces, Peter Bod; Landscape, Ruysdael; 
Dante and Beatrice, Schaeffer; The Flaying of Marsyas, and the Golden Age, 
Luca Giordano. There are a great number of copies (in oil) of famous European 
pictures, and in one room 50 of the chromo-lithographs of the Arundel Society 
(London), being copies of famous religious paintings in the noontide of art. In 
these rooms are casts of the antique works, — the Quoit-Players, Piping Faun, Si- 
lenus and Bacchus, Boy with a thorn in his foot, the Venus de Milo, and the 
Dying Gladiator, with busts of Julius Caesar, Augustus, Tiberius, Caligula. Clau¬ 
dius, Nero, Galba, Otho, Vitellius, Vespasian, Titus, Domitian, Nerva, Trajan. Ha¬ 
drian, the Antonines, &c. A beautiful marble copy of the Venus de Medici is in 
one room, also (in marble) Greek Girl, by Wolf; * Maid of Carthage, G reenough ; 
Will o’ the Wisp, Harriet Hosmer; * Venus Victrix, Greenough. 

One room is occupied by a large collection of Egyptian antiquities, embracing 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 1G c. 


hundreds of figures of the gods Osiris, Amun, Horus, Isis, &c., in bronze, marble, 
wood, porcelain, and terra-cotta ; also a large number of scarabsei, amulets, vases, 
and curious jewels. There are also seven human mummies, with a great number 
of funereal trappings, and mummies of monkeys, lambs, ibises, cats, hawks, mice, 
crocodiles, tortoises, snakes, &c. There are 1,100 pieces in this collection (cata¬ 
logue, at the door, 25 cts.). 

In the next room are several hundred lamps, amphorae, cups, statuettes, heads, 
weapons. &c., from Idalium, on the Island of Cyprus, of great interest to the 
student of early Phoenician and Greek history. The Appleton collection is on the 
same floor, containing many Graeco-Italian fictile painted vases from Etruscan 
and Campanian tombs. Some elaborate old cabinets contain fine Venetian glass¬ 
ware, and a large number of rich majolica plates are exhibited. A large piece of 
Gobelins tapestry (France crowned by Victory and attended by Minerva) occupies 
one end of the room ; at the other end is a group of plaster casts from famous Italian 
bas-reliefs, near which is a Madonna and Child, by Luca della Robbia, and the 
Virgin adoring the infant Jesus, by Andrea della Robbia. Two large pictures by 
Boucher, two by Allston, a large collection of ancient coins (a gold Alexander), and 
the rich oaken panels, carved and gilded, from the Chateau Montmorency, are 
worthy of note. The positions of the pictures and curiosities are so often changed 
that a more careful list would be of no permanent use. 

The handsome * First Bantist Church stands at the corner of Com¬ 
monwealth Ave. and Clarendon St., and is in the form of a Greek cross, 
with three rose-windows lighting the interior, which is 78 ft. high, and is 
surmounted by a basilica roof of stained ash. The tower is 176 ft. high, 
and is surrounded by a frieze containing colossal figures in high relief, 
representing the four Christian eras, Baptism, Communion, Marriage, 
and Death,—one on each side of the tower. At the corners of the 
frieze are colossal statues representing the Angels of the Judgment, with 
golden trumpets. The work was done by Italian artists, after designs 
by Bartholdi. 

Near this point, in the Commonwealth-Ave. park, is a colossal bronze 
statue of Gen. John Glover, the commander of the Marblehead marine 
regiment in the Continental army. The superb marble building of the 
Hotel Vendome is farther out on the avenue, and Garrison’s statue. 

The Young Men’s Christian Union Building is at No. 20 Boylston 
St., opposite the Masonic Temple, and has a handsome Gothic front of 
Ohio sandstone, with a tall clock-tower. It contains a library, reading- 
rooms, reception-room, parlors and class-rooms, a coffee-room, gymnasium, 
and a hall which seats 700 persons. The library consists of over 5,000 
volumes ; and there are also collections of curiosities, which include 550 
coins, 153 shells, 355 specimens of woods, 700 minerals, 3,500 insects, 
and 475 birds of Massachusetts, nests, Indian relics, etc. Near the new 
Old South Church is the building of the Boston Art Club, in which exhi¬ 
bitions of pictures are frequently given. Boylston St. runs out to the W. 
through an opulent quarter, passing the Public Garden and Copley Square, 
and giving access to the newly-built streets of the patrician West End, 
and the Harvard Medical School. 

The * Providence Railroad-Station is on Columbus Ave., near the 
Common, and has no equal in America in beautv and convenience. The 


16 d. Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


architecture is Gothic, with a lofty clock-tower and a deep arcade on the 
front. The great hall is paved witli marble, and adorned with a magnifi¬ 
cent timber-roof. The waiting-rooms, cafe, offices, etc., open from this 
hall, which is 180 ft. long, 44 ft. broad, and 80 ft. high. At its end is 
the immense train-house, which is 588 ft. long and 130 ft. wide, with its 
roof supported on iron trusses. 

Columbus Avenue runs nearly S. W. from the Common to Chester 
Park, and is a broad and straight street, Avith a wooden pavement, bor¬ 
dered by handsome residences. It is a favorite thoroughfare for the 
passage of military processions and other civic displays. 

The First Presbyterian Church is at the corner of Columbus Ave. and 
Berkeley St. Opposite is the great Peoples’ Church (Methodist), seating 
over 3,000 persons. Farther up the avenue is Dr. Miner’s Univeralist 
Church, a large and costly structure with splendid stained-glass windows. 
The Union Congregational Church is still farther up, and is a picturesque 
and rambling building of Roxbury stone, with a stone spire and an open 
timber-roof. One square from the aA'enue to the 1., on Canton St., is the 
Warren-Avenue Baptist Church. 


Beacon Hill is N. of Boston Common, and is densely covered with 
brick houses, built along quiet and comparatively narrow streets. It de- 
rh'es its name from the fact that in the ancient colonial days permanent 
arrangements were made for beacon-fires to be kindled here to alarm the 
country in case of danger or attack. Boston University’s chief hall is on 
Somerset St.; the church formerly occupied by Dr. Kirk is on Ashburton 
Place; the ritualistic Church of St. John (conducted by the CoAvley Fathers) 
and the Swedenborgian Church are on BoAvdoin St., and the Faith Training 
College is on Beacon-IIill Place. The quaint old West Church (Unitarian) 
is at the corner of Cambridge and Lynde Sts., and its pastors have been 
Mayhew, Howard, LoAvell, and Bartol. The City Jail is a massive cruci¬ 
form building on Cambridge St., near the Charles River. 

1 lie (diaries KiAer is crossed, at the foot of Cambridge St,., by the long 
W est-Boston Bridge , Avhence broad A'ieAvs are afforded 0A r er the Avater on 
either side, dhe house of the Union Boat Club is near Brimmer 

St. It is contemplated to line the water-front of the citA r , on this side, Avith 
broad esplanades, gardens, and promenades, connected Avith parks and 
forests in other parts of the municipality. The costly and handsome 
Chuicli of the Advent (Ritualistic), on Brimmer St., is famous for its 
imposing choral services. 



BOSTON. 


Route 1. 17 


The * State House (PI. 13) is on the summit of Beacon Hill, fronting 
the Common. Its corner-stone was drawn to the place July 4, 1795, 
by fifteen white horses, amid great ceremonies. The most prominent ob¬ 
jects on the exterior are the fine Corinthian colonnade and the high round 
dome. When the Legislature (or General Court) is in session, national 
flags are displayed from the building. The * Doric Hall, at the entrance, 
is a neat marble-paved room, supported by columns, and surrounded by 
high niches, fronted with plate-glass, in which are gathered the banners 
of the Massachusetts regiments borne in the War for the Union. On the 
right are busts of Charles Sumner and Samuel Adams, and on the left a 
bust of Abraham Lincoln and a statue of Gov. John A. Andrew, by Ball. 
In a marble-paved and banner-hung rotunda, opening on the Doric Hall, 
is Chantrey’s * Statue of Washington, in front of which are copies of the 
monuments of the old Washington family, at Brington, in Northampton¬ 
shire. The House of Representatives (up stairs to the left from the Doric 
Hall) is a plain and somewhat crowded hall, with a codfish hanging from 
the roof, as emblematic of a prolific source of the wealth of the State. 
The Senate Chamber is on the other side, and is adorned by some old por¬ 
traits and trophies. The extensive State Library is in the west wing. 
From the dome of the State House (open when the Legislature is not in 
session) is obtained a fine * view. Boston Harbor, with its islands, and 
peninsulas, and the distant blue ocean, fill the east; in the north are 
Charlestown, its Navy Yard and Monument, with Lynn, Chelsea, Malden, 
and Medford ; to the Avest, Charles River and Back Bay, Cambridge, Brigh¬ 
ton, Brookline, and Newton ; and in the south, Roxbury and Dorchester, 
with the blue hills of Milton far away. On the terraces in front of the 
building are bronze statues of Daniel Webster and Horace Mann, the 
great educationist. The house opposite (corner Park and Beacon Sts.) 
was for 40 years the home of George Ticknor, author of the “ History 
of Spanish Literature,” in 3 volumes (translated into German and Span¬ 
ish), who bequeathed 4,000-5,000 Spanish books to the Public Library. 
The Union Club .(600 members), a patriotic organization formed in 1863, 
occupies the next house below (on Park St.). On Beacon St., near the 
State House, is the * Boston Athenaeum, a neat brownstone building, 
in the Palladian style. On the lower floor is the library of the American 
Academy of Arts and Sciences, and a large reading-room adorned with 
statuary. In the vestibule are casts of Houdon’s Washington and of 
Sophocles, also a marble statue — The First Inspiration of Columbus — 
bf Montaverde, and a bronze group —the Boy and the Eagle —by Green- 
ough. On the r. is the entrance to the reading-room, in which the news¬ 
papers and magazines are kept. On the second floor is the library, 
which now contains 160,000 volumes, and is the favorite resort of the 
cultured higher classes of Boston. Only members of the Athenaeum and 


18 Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


(temporarily) persons introduced by them are allowed to use the library 
and reading-room. The Athenaeum was organized in 1807, and occu¬ 
pied its present building in 1847. It has real estate and books worth 
$ 400,000, and over .$ 250,000 in funds. The pictures pertaining to the 
society have been transferred to the Museum of Fine Arts. 

The offices of Boston University are at No. 12 Somerset St. This in¬ 
stitution was founded in 1869, with munificent endowments, and has 
already attained a high rank. It 

consists of a group of colleges and schools, with 627 students (144 of 
whom are young women). The College of the Liberal Arts is at 20 Bea¬ 
con St., and has 17 instructors and 82 students. The College of Music 
(at Music Hall) has 15 instructors and 21 students; and the College of 
Agriculture is affiliated with the Mass. Agricultural College. 

The professional schools include the School of Theology (Methodist), with 14 
instructors and 101 students, its headquarters being at 36 Bromfield St. The 
School of Law is on Ashburton Place, and has 16 instructors and 141 students. 
The School of Medicine is on E. Concord St., and has 2S instructors and 172 stu¬ 
dents. The School of Oratory is at 18 Beacon St., and has 12 instructors and SO 
students. The School of All Sciences (11 students) is a schola scholarum, or 
department for elective post-graduate study, and is affiliated with the universi¬ 
ties at Athens and Rome. 

The Somerset Club occupies a ricldy furnished and luxurious house 
at Beacon St., adorned with many works of art. It is the favorite re¬ 
sort of the men of fashion and wealth, and includes in its mem¬ 

bership Charles Francis Adams, Robert C. Winthrop, J. Q. Adams, 
H. B. Sargent, and many other notables. The Union Club is also 
famous for its brains and culture, and is the resort of middle-aged gentle¬ 
men, among whom the Harvard element is strong. The house is on 
Park St., and is very comfortable and quiet, being also adorned with 
a few rare paintings. Here Edward Everett, Gov. Andrew, and Charles 
Sumner passed much of their time. Among the members are Judge 
E R. Hoar, R. H. Dana, Jr., Gov. Rice, Prof. Ware, Chief Justice Gray, 
Henry L. Pierce, and other eminent men. 

Near the Athenaeum is Pemberton Square, the site of an old Indian ne¬ 
cropolis, where 300 skulls were dug up in Cotton Mather’s time. Gov¬ 
ernor Endicott and Sir Henry Vane lived near this spot, and in later days 
it was an aristocratic centre. The tall old brick houses are now used for 
the offices of lawyers and business-agencies of various kinds. Louisburg 
Square is a stately and silent place on the farther slope of Beacon Hill, 
embellished with statties of Aristides and Columbus. 

The new Suffolk-Countv Court-House is a vast structure, now beii%> 
built between Somerset St. and Pemberton Square. It will cost several 
million dollars. 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 19 


South Boston is separated from the city by an arm of the harbor 
which reaches to Roxbury. It contains about 900 acres of land, with 
66,000 inhabitants, and is quickly reached by the horse-cars from Boston 
Broadway is the principal street, and is a pleasantly shaded thoroughfare, 
with several churches. 

The Perkins Institution for the Blind was founded in 1831, by Dr. S. 
G. Howe. It was favored by liberal popular contributions, and now oc¬ 
cupies large buildings on Mt. Washington, S. Boston. Charles Dickens 
visited and highly praised this institution, as also the charitable and cor¬ 
rective establishments in a secluded position near Independence Square, 
S. Boston (Insane Hospital and House of Correction). 

“Such are the institutions at South Boston. In all of them the unfortunate or 
degenerate citizens of the State are carefully instructed in their duties both to 
God and man ; are surrounded by all reasonable means of comfort or happiness 
that their condition will admit of ; and are ruled by the strong Heart, and not by 
the strong (though immeasurably weaker) Hand.” — Dickens. 

The extensive Carney Hospital (managed by Sisters of Charity) is near by on 
the hill, and above it is a reservoir and small park near the site of the old fort. 
On the bright, moonlit night of March 3,1776, General Thomas and 2,000 Ameri¬ 
cans advanced quietly to this point (Dorchester Heights), and, when morning 
dawned, two strong forts were completed within point-blank range of Boston. 
Lord Percy and 2,400 royal troops were ordered to attack them, and Washington 
himself, with 4,000 men, awaited the onset. But a storm, “ propitious to the 
real interests of the British army,” prevented Percy from crossing the harbor. A 
few days later the city was heavily bombarded, and a new fort having been built 
still nearer, the royal forces were forced to evacuate Boston, March 18, sailing 
away in 150 transports, and carrying with them 1,000 New-Englanders who re¬ 
mained loyal to King George. From this little park a fine view is obtained of 
Boston and its harbor, and. of Dorchester and the southern suburbs. 

The South End. 

The district south of Boylston and Essex Sts. is mainly occupied by 
dwelling-houses, and Washington St., with its retail stores and hotels, 
runs through its centre. The greater part of this district has been re¬ 
claimed from the water. Near the line of Dover St. a wall garnished 
with cannon formerly crossed the Neck and defended the town. Union 
Park and Worcester and Chester Squares are embellished with trees and 
fountains and surrounded with line residences. Columbus Ave.,on the 
north, is a broad thoroughfare, forming an 

admirable drive-way. On Tremont St. is the imposing white granite 
edifice of Odd Fellows’ Hall (built 1871-73), and beyond it some fine 
churches, the best of which is the quaint and rambling Methodist Church. 
On Harrison Ave., near Concord St., is the City Hospital, with 

a fine building (surmounted by a dome) in the centre, joined to the 
spacious wings by curving colonnades. Near the Hospital is the 
Catholic Home for Orphans, and the Jesuit Church of the Immaculate 
Conception (with a fine interior, and famed for its music), connected with 
which is Boston College. The church and college cost over § 350,000, 


1 9 a. Route 1. 


BOSTON. 


and are powerful centres of Catholic influence. The interior of the 
church is finished in white, with brilliant paintings in the chancel. 

Near the point where Washington St. runs between the pleasant little 
parks of Franklin and Biackstone Squares is the great New-England 
Conservatory of Music. Brookline St. runs N. W. to the Shawmut 
Congregational Church, which has a tall and plain campanile and a 
richly adorned interior. On W. Newton St. is the large structure occu¬ 
pied by the Girls' High and Normal School , near the beautiful Corin¬ 
thian colonnade of the Church of the Unity. The streets in this quarter 
are almost entirely occupied by dwelling-houses, and ai’e dotted here and 
there with churches. 

The * Cathedral of the Holy Cross (Roman Catholic) is at the corner 

of Washington and Malden St.s., and covers more than an acre of ground, 
its greatest length being 364 ft., with a breadth of 170 ft. It is in the 
simplest form of early English Gothic architecture, with very slight 
adornment; and was built between 1867 and 1S75. The great towers are 
to be surmounted by spires, respectively 300 and 200 ft. high. The nave 
is 95 ft. high, to its vaulted oaken roof; and is separated from the aisles 
by two rows of clustered metallic pillars, bronzed and polished, between 
which are Gothic arches. The entrance from the marble-paved vestibule 
is under arches made from the bricks of the old Ursuline Convent at 
Somerville, which was destroyed by a mob in 1834. Near the octagonal 
apse are several chapels, the costly high-altar, the archiepiscopal throne, 
the chantry, and the beautiful Chapel of the Blessed Sacrament. The 
stained-glass windows in the chancel represent tin* Crucifixion, Nativity, 
and Ascension. The transept-windows are each 40 X 20 ft. in area, that 
on the r. representing the Finding of the True Cross, the other the Exal¬ 
tation of the Cross by the Emperor Ileraclius after its recovery from the 
Persians. The clerestory windows are also stained. The superb organ is 
built around the great rose-window, and is the fifth in size in the world, 
having 5,292 pipes, and nearly 100 stops. Under the building are chap¬ 
els and class-rooms, and the crypt for the burial of bishops. The artis¬ 
tic adornment and enrichment of the Cathedral is to be the work of the 
coming centuries. 


The external length of this building is greater than that of the cathedrals at 
Vienna, Munich, Ratisbon, Orvieto. Messina, Monreale, Pisa, Venice Freibourg 
Treves, or St. Denis. It is higher than the cathedrals of Vienna Munich Spires 
Paris, Strasbourg, Freibourg, Rheims, Chartres, Antwerp, or St. Ouen at’Rouen’ 
The New-York and Montreal cathedrals are q s on i v r j va jg 

in America. 3 


Washington St. soon reaches the Highland District (the ancient Rox- 
bury), and enters a region of undulating hills, where its divergent streets 
are overarched with trees. Harrison Ave., Shawmut Ave., and Tremont 
St. run nearly parallel with Washington St. from the vicinity of the 


BOSTON. 


Route 1. 


19 b. 


Common to the Highlands, and each of them is the route of a car 
line. 

Chester Park crosses Washington St. at right angles, and is lined with 
handsome residences. Near its centre is a pleasant square, with abun¬ 
dant trees and a musical fountain. West Chester Park runs across the 
new-made land to Beacon St., near the new Back-Bay Park, with its sedgy 
water-courses and noble masonry, passing Gov. Ames’s palace. 

Among the eminent natives of Boston are the divines Increase Mather and 
Cotton Mather, John Cotton, Mather Byles, Thomas Prince, the annalist; Jeremy 
Belknap, historian of New Hampshire ; William Bentley, John Pierce, Leonard 
Withington, N. L. Frothingham, F. W. P. Greenwood, John A. Vinton, S. G. Bul- 
iinch, W. H. Channing, Bishop J. B. Fitzpatrick, E. O. Haven, John Weiss, C. 
D. Bradlee, and Phillips Brooks. Among the Boston-born authors are Isaiah 
Thomas, Thomas Pemberton, B. Austin, Wm. Tudor, W. H. Sumner, Jas. Sav¬ 
age, J. T. Austin, L. M. Sargent, Eliza L. Follen, A. H. Everett, George Tiek- 
nor, Caroline Gilman, W. B. Fowle, T. W. Harris, C. H. Snow, J. G. Palfrey, 
Edmund Quincy, W. B. Trask, F. A. Durivage, J. J. Jan es, R. S. Willis, W. F. 
Channing, Samuel Eliot, M. M. Ballou, E. E. Hale, Francis Parkman, A. J. IT. 
Duganne, E. S. Rand, Jr. The native poets are Joseph Green, Royal Tyler, 
Charles Sprague, Rufus Dawes, W. J. Snelling, Albert Pike, Frances S. Osgood, 
H. T. Tuckerman, T. W. Parsons, G. E. Rice, Susan W. Muspratt. The native 
statesmen are Joseph Dudley, Jonathan Belcher, Thos. Hutchinson, Samuel 
Adams, James Bowdoin, Josiah Quincy, Robert Treat Paine, J. Mason, Samuel 
Sewall, Charles Francis Adams, Charles Sumner. The orators are Thos. Dawes, 
Samuel Dexter, Harrison Gray Otis, Edward Everett, Robert C. Winthrop, Wen¬ 
dell Phillips, Mary A. Livermore. The philosophers are Benjamin Franklin and 
Ralph Waldo Emerson. The scientists are B. A. Gould, G. B. Bond, F. II. 
Storer, and Winslow Lewis. The philanthropists are Dr. S. G. Howe, John Low 
ell, Jr., S. J. May, and T. H. Perkins. The artists are J. S. Copley, G. P. A. 
Healey, Geo. L. Brown, W. E. Norton, W. W. Fisher, Horatio Greenougli, and 
Martin Millmore. The actors are W. F. Johnson, G. H. Hills, Charlotte Cushman 
and E. L. Davenport. The military and naval officers born at Boston are Gen. 
Henry Knox, Admiral Sir T. A. Coffin, Sir R. II. Sheaffe, Admiral C. II. Davis, 
Gen. Clias. Devens, Jr., Gen. C. R. Lowell, Gen. T. G. Stevenson, and many 
others of eminence. 


On outer Newbury St. are the beautiful new church of the Hollis-St. 
Unitarian Society, the costly and elegant First Spiritual Temple (Spiritual¬ 
ist), and the Mass. Normal Art School. Farther out is an imposing round- 
arched brownstone engine-house and police-station. 

Among the new statues erected in Boston are the Charles Sumner, on 
the Public Garden ; Mayor Quincy, in front of the City Ilall ; Gov. John 
Winthrop, on Scollay Square; Sam. Adams, near the corner of Washing¬ 
ton and Brattle Sts., and the Emancipation Group, Park Square. Statues 
of Theodore Parker, Col. Robert G. Shaw, and others are in preparation. 
The Boston Massacre monument is on the Common, near Tremont Street. 
Will iam Llovd Garrison’s statue stands on Commonwealth Avenue, near 
the Hotel Vendome; and farther out is the noble statue to Leif Ericsson, 
the Norse discoverer of the Massachusetts coast. 


20 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


2. Environs of Boston. 

“ As 3 T ou approach Boston the roughest region is yet a region of homes. 

Man may sometimes deform, but he oftenest improves Nature ; it is mere cant to 
assert the contrary. And I know no better illustration of the fact than the environs 

of Boston.The approach to Boston is almost the only picturesque city-view 

we have on the Atlantic coast The broad reaches of water, the cheerful suburbs on 
either hand, the long, gently rising brick hill in front, crowned with the yellow 
dome of the State House, when seen in the tempered evening light, undera cloudless 
sky, form an imposing and truly attractive picture. New York, from the bay, sug¬ 
gests commercial activity only ; Philadelphia, from the Delaware, is the tamest of 
cities; but Boston, from any side, owing to her elevation, has a stately charm which 
her prouder sisters do not possess.” — Bayard Taylor. 

“In her southern suburbs, however, — in Roxbury and the hills beyond, and 
princely Brookline, and Brighton, — Boston may challenge comparison with almost 
any city in the world. This undulating region, dotted with crystal ponds, superbly 
wooded, and covered for miles with country-seats in every conceivable style of archi¬ 
tecture, from the once-prevalent Grecian temple to the now fashionable mansard- 
roof, is a portfolio crammed with delicious pictures. The velvet turf, golden-green 
in sunshine, the trim buckthorn hedges, the trellised roses, the commingling of 
pine, elm, maple, larch, chestnut, and fir in the groves, the unexpected dolls and 
water-glimpses, the gleam of towers and mellow-tinted house-fronts far and near, 
the old avenues, ribbed with Gothic boughs, are among their features, and you can 
scarcely say that anything is wanting.” 

“ It is not only in the Harvard precincts that the oldness of New England is to 
be remarked. Although her people are everywhere in the vanguard of all pro- ^ 
gress, their country has a look of gable-ends and steeple-hats, while their laws 
seem fresh from the hands of Alfred. In all England there is no city which has 
suburbs so gray and venerable as the elm-shaded towns around Boston, — Dorches¬ 
ter, Chelsea, Nahant, and Salem ; the people speak the English of Elizabeth, and 
joke about us — ‘he speaks good English for an Englishman.’”— Sir Charles 
Dilkf.. 

Boston Harbor. 

The Route to Nahant. Soon after leaving the wharf, with East 

Boston on the left, Governor’s Island is passed. This island 

was granted to Governor Winthrop in 1632, and was long called Gover¬ 
nor’s Garden, and here, according to Josselyn, in 1638, -were the only 
apple and pear trees in New England. A powerful fortress of the United 
States, called Fort Winthrop, now occupies the island. Soon after pass¬ 
ing the Fort the view includes the narrow strait between Point Shirley 
on the 1. and Deer Island on the r. The point was named in honor 
of William Shirley, Governor of Massachusetts 1741 to 1756, sometime 
commander of the British armies in America, and Governor of the Ba¬ 
hama Islands. It now forms the S. end of the town of Winthrop. 


Opposite Point Shirley is Deer Island (4J M. from 
Boston), “ so-called because of the deare, who often swim thither from 
the maine when they are chased by the wolves” (17th century). During 
the war of King Philip (1675- 76) this place presented a pitiful sight, 
for hundreds of Indian prisoners were landed and guarded here, and 
scores of them died of hunger and from exposure to the winter frosts. At 
present the island is occupied by the immense buildings (in the form of a 




ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. Route 2. 21 

Latin Cross) of the Boston Almshouse, and of the House of Industry and 
the House of Reformation. 

In May, 1776, the Boston privateers “ Franklin” and “Lady Wash¬ 
ington ” grounded on Point Shirley, and were attacked by thirteen British 
man-of-war boats. The action lasted for several hours, until the tide 
rose, when the privateers escaped. In the war of 1812 the frigate “Con¬ 
stitution ” was once blockaded in Boston Harbor, and got away by creep¬ 
ing through Shirley Gut by night. Beyond Point Shirley the lofty bluffs 
of Winthrop are passed on the 1., succeeded by Chelsea Beach with its 
hotels, and the City and Harbor of Lynn, in full view of which the wharf 
at Nahant is gained. 

Nahant. 

Steamboat several times daily from Boston to Nahant (see newspapers). 

Boston & Maine Railroad (Eastern Division) to Lynn, and thence by omnibus 
several times daily. 

Hotels — The immense hotel at East Point, built 1824, and long the pride of 
the coast, was burned in 1861; there remain but small hotels, — Hood Cottage, 
Murdock Cottage, etc., charging S lU- 15 a week. 

Nahant is a peninsula composed of ocean-swept rocks, with pleasant 
beaches interspersed, and villas scattered over its heights, where many of 
the cultured and literary people of Boston and Cambridge spend their 
summers. It is 12 M. from Boston by water and 4 M. from Lynn by 
land. Crossing the long and narrow sandy isthmus called Lynn Beach, 
with the roar of surf continuous on the ocean-front, the rocky ridge 
of Little Nahant is passed, and Nahant Beach extends to the peninsula 
proper. Mr. Tudor, who for years supplied Massachusetts ice to the 
four quarters of the world, and hence is called the “ Ice-King,” fitted 
up a pleasant resort for visitors on the north side of Nahant. About 20 
acres of picturesque grounds along the sea, adorned with fountains and 
shell-work, and commanding a fine view of Lynn and Swampscott, com¬ 
pose this Garden of Maolis (Siloam). A good 

fish or clam dinner may be had in the Maolis pavilions. Amonf the 
jagged and savage-browed cliffs of Nahant are numberless curious forma¬ 
tions of the rock, named as follows: John’s Peril, a deep chasm in the 
cliffs, on the north, and near Nahant Beach ; the Spouting Horn, where 
the surf dashes through a long, rocky tunnel into a cavern, and there is 
spouted forth with great force ; Castle Rock, a massive and regular pile 
of rock, faintly resembling some ancient castle-keep ; Caldron Cliff and 
Roaring Cavern are grandly resonant in time of storms; Natural Bridge, 
an arch of rock spanning a narrow, tide-swept fissure ; Pulpit Rock; and 
Sappho’s Rock. The three last-named are on East Point, the site of the 
vast hotel, of which a relic remains, in the shape of a pretty little classic 
building on the outermost promontory, which looks like an ancient Greek 
shrine on some cliff of the yEgean, and which really, was a billiard- 
saloon. 


22 Routed. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


On the S. shore is Swallows’ Cave, a cavern 72 ft. deep, increasing 
from 10 ft. wide and 5 ft. high to 14 ft. wide and 20 ft. high. Near the 
tall rock arch called Irene’s Grotto is the steamboat landing. N. E. 
of the peninsula, and well out in Nahant Bay, Egg Rock rises sharply 
from the sea to the height of 86 ft., and is crowned by a lighthouse. 
Many old traditions cluster arqund Nahant, whose name is said to mean 
“ Lovers’ Walk.” 

“ The temperature of Nahant, being moderated by sea breezes, so as to be cooler 
in summer and milder in winter than the mainland, is regarded as being highly 
conducive to health. It is delightful in summer to ramble round this romantic 
peninsula, and to examine at leisure its interesting curiosities ; to hear the waves 
rippling the colored pebbles of the beaches, and see them gliding over the pro¬ 
jecting ledges in fanciful cascades ; to behold the plovers and sandpipers running 
along the beaches, the seal slumbering upon the outer rocks, the white gulls 
soaring overhead, the porpoises pursuing their rude gambols along the shore, and 
the curlew, the loon, the black duck, and the coot, the brant, with his dappled 
neck, and the oldwife, with her strange, wild, vocal melody, swimming gracefully 
in the coves and rising and sinking with the swell of the tide. The moonlight even¬ 
ings here are exceedingly lovely ; and the phosphoric radiance of the billows, on 
favorable nights (making the waters look like a sea of lire) exhibits a scene of 
wonderful beauty.'’ — Lewis. 

The Route to Hull, Hingham, etc. So many are tlie routes by water 
to the South Shore that the islands in that part of the harbor will be 
spoken of without regard to any special course. 

S. Boston is first passed on the right, and then Fort Winthrop, near 
which, due E. of S. Boston, is Castle Island. Fortifications were built 
here in 1634, “to make many shots at such ships as shall offer to enter 
the harbor without their good leave and liking; it is of very good use 
to awe any insolent persons, that, putting confidence in their ships and 
sails, shall offer any injury to the people, or contemn their government; 
and they have certain signals of alarms (cannon and lights on Beacon Hill) 
which suddenly spread through the whole country.” At the coronation 
of King William, the battery was called Castle William, and was much 
strengthened by the British, until at the evacuation of Boston they de¬ 
stroyed it. It was repaired by the Americans in time to fire a 13-gun 
salute for the surrender of Burgoyne (1777). In 1798, President John 
Adams being present, it was named Fort Independence, and ceded to the 
United States. The present fort is now used as an ordnance-depot. 

In 240 years the little mud fort, passing through the gradations of a 
wooden palisade and a brick “castle,” has developed into a granite fort¬ 
ress of great power and destructive force. S. E. of Castle Island is Spec¬ 
tacle Island, where are carried the dead horses from Boston, and farther 
S. is Thompson’s Island, which bears the Farm School, — a noble 
institution, where neglected street arabs and poor orphans 
are cared for. Well-fed and clothed, they are employed in farming in the 
warmer months, and schooling in the winter, and at the age of twenty- 
one receive a suit of clothes and one hundred dollars. Eastward of 


Route 2. 23 


BOSTON HARBOR. 

Thompson’s is Long Island, the site of a large institution erected in 1887 
for the city paupers. On the high bluffs of this island is an iron 
lighthouse which can be seen from 15 M. off at sea. A powerful battery 
has been built by the General Government at the head of Long Island. 
E. of the battery is the reef of Nix’s Mate, with a massive pyramid of 
stone and iron 32 ft. high, warning seamen of a dangerous shoal. In 1636 
“ Nixes ilande ” covered 12 acres, and it Jong served as a place to execute 
pirates and murderers. The legend reports that Captain Nix was killed 
by his mate, and that the latter was executed on this spot, declaring his 
innocence, and prophesying that the island would wash away in proof of 
it. The fact that but one acre of shoal, and a low, narrow ledge of rocks 
remain, is thought to help the legend very much. 

S. E. of Long Island, and 7 M. from Boston, is Rainsford’s Island, 
where a hospital was located in 1738. Here is the city alms-house. Gal- 
loup’s Island, to the N., is one of the Quarantine Stations. Still farther 
E., on George’s Island, stands Fort Warren, a powerful fortress of the 
first class, called the key of Boston Harbor. It was built between 1833 
and 1850, of hammered Quincy granite, with powerful water-batteries. Dur¬ 
ing the Rebellion many Confederate chiefs were imprisoned in its case¬ 
mates, the most noted of whom were Mason and Slidell, taken from the 
British mail-steamer “ Trent,” Nov. 8, 1861, by Capt. Wilkes, of the 
U. S. frigate “ San Jacinto.” The British government made a peremptory 
demand, and President Lincoln finally surrendered these rebel commis¬ 
sioners, who went to Europe in January, 1862. E. of Fort War¬ 

ren, on a small islet at the entrance of the harbor, stands the massive 
stone shaft of Boston Light. This structure occupies the site of the 
lighthouse established in 1715, and is furnished with a powerful revolving 
light nearly 100 ft. above the sea. To the N. is a cluster of rocky 
islets; and to the W. is the Bug Light, where iron pillars uphold a small 
house, over which is a fixed red light. 

Hull (* Hotel Pemberton ; Oregon House; St. Cloud), 

the’terminus of the beach railway' which diverges from the Old Colon v 
R. R. beyond Hingliam, is a small village under the lee of a high hill, 
crowned bv a marine observatory’, much visited during the summer. The 
town of Hull occupies the great natural breakwater which runs N. and W. 
from the South Shore, and guards the harbor. Its population is small, and 
its alertness in political campaigns, joined with its practical insignificance 
therein, do not fail to draw forth much good-humored jesting from the Bos- 
.‘onians. The railroad and highway run seaward by Point Allerton (from 
Isaac Allerton, an adventurous Pilgrim, who cruised the coast of Maine in 
the barque “White Angel ” for several years, early in the 17th century). 
The road now leads out on Nantasket Beach, a line of hard and surf-beaten 
white sand, 4 M. long. The bathing here is capital, and driving is easy and 


24 Route 2. 


HINGHAM. 


pleasant at low tide. Near the S. end of the beach are the Rockland 
and Atlantic Houses, first-class hotels accommodating several hundred 
guests each ($4.50 a day), and many smaller hotels and restaurants. 

The steamboats run from Boston to this locality several times daily, in 
summer, and also to Hingham and to the modern summer resort of Downer 
Landing (* Rose Stand ish House), in the harbor. The picnic-grounds of 
Melville Gardens are at Downer, £nd several neat little cottages are seen 
upon the bluff above. A fine harbor-side road leads hence to Hingham. 

The Jerusalem Road runs S. from the Hingham-Nantasket road to 
Cohasset, following the curves of the ocean-shore, and generally on high 
hills and cliffs. The scenery along this route is grand, and many wealthy 
Bostonians have built villas there, with wide lawns running down to the 
surf. The Black-Rock House, Konohasset House, and Warren Bates’s 
(address, Cohasset) are on this road. 

Hingham (Cushing House , $8-12 a week) is a quaint village S. of the 
harbor, which was settled in 1045, and was often ravaged during the In¬ 
dian wars. Its first pastor came from Hingham, in England, and gave 
its name to the struggling colony. Situated amid fine coast-scenery, but 
12 M. (by water) from Boston, this “ Marine Old Hadley” drew many 
visitors, and its large hotel, the Old Colony House (burned in Octo¬ 
ber, 1872) was well patronized. A quaint edifice on the main st. near 
the Railroad Station, built nearly square, with the roof sloping steeply 
up on 4 sides to a balustraded platform, surmounted by a narrow-pointed 
belfry, is “the oldest church in Yankeedom.” It was built in 1681, 
for the Congregational Society of Hingham, who still use it. 

Behind the church is the * old graveyard, covering a finely terraced hill, and 
containing hundreds of ancient stones. In the southern part is a plain and grace¬ 
ful obelisk of granite, on which are inscribed the names of 76 soldiers of Hing- 
ham who died in the war for the Union. On the highest hill, on a mound 
surrounded by a circular earthwork, is a tall obelisk of granite “ To the early 
settlers of Hingham.” Elsewhere rests, under a noble statue, John Albion An¬ 
drew, the great war-governor of Massachusetts, who, during the battle-years 
1861 -65, did more than any other man to raise, equip, and forward to the field 
the immense levies of troops from this State. He was distinguished for fervid 
eloquence, great executive ability, and tender provision for the disabled soldiers. 
He died in 1867. Near the entrance to the cemetery is the tomb of Benjamin 
Lincoln, a major-general in the Continental Army, second in command of the 
Army of the North which captured Burgoyne. commander of the Army of the 
South, 1778-80, repulsed from Savannah and Stono Ferry. After enduring a 
siege of 6 weeks at Charleston (spring of 1780), he was forced to surrender to 
Sir Henry Clinton. Having been exchanged, he commanded the centre at York- 
town, and was Secretary of War, 1781-84. He died at Hingham, his birthplace 
(1733), in 1810. 

The Charlestown District includes the ancient city of Charlestown, 
which was annexed to Boston in 1873. It has about 38,000 inhabit¬ 
ants, 2 banks, 2 savings-banks, 3 papers, 13 churches, and large sugar- 
refineries, tanneries, distilleries, bakeries, etc. Two bridges cross the 
Charles River to Boston ; one leads to E. Cambridge ; and another crosses 
the broad Mystic River to Chelsea. In the S- part is City Square , 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 25 


where extensive domed buildings on the left were formerly occupied as the 
Waverly Hotel. Near by is the old City Hall, in which is a fine library 
and reading-room. Main St., to the right, leads to the United States 
Navy Yard, covering over 100 acres, and separated from the city by a 
heavy stone wall, 16 ft. high. A sea-wall extends along the water-front, 
broken only by a few wharves and a great dry-dock, built of hammered 
granite, 341 ft. long and 80 ft. wide, and costing nearly $700,000. 
Various construction-depots, magazines of naval stores, barracks, and 
work-shops are in the yard; also 4 large ship-houses,.and a granite- 
built rope-walk, £ M. long. Many famous war-ships have been 
built here,—the “Frolic,” “Independence,” “Vermont,” “Cumber¬ 
land," “ Merrimac,” “ Canonicus,” “ Wachusett,” “Huron,” “Talla¬ 
poosa,” etc. 

Charlestown has a handsome soldiers’ monument, — on a tall pedestal, 
a figure of America crowning representatives of the Army and Navy, who 
stand below her. In the building alongside Bunker Hill Monument is a 
fine statue of Gen. .Joseph Warren, who was killed on the Hill; and on 
the path near by is a noble bronze statue of Col. Prescott. 

On Prison Point are the great granite buildings occupied by the Mas¬ 
sachusetts State Prison. The four northern railroads enter Boston near 
this point, crossing the Charles River, and wellnigh hiding the stream 
under their long and multitudinous bridges. 

Not far from the prison is an ancient cemetery, where a simple and mas¬ 
sive granite shaft has been erected by Harvard alumni , to the memory of 
John Harvard, the early benefactor of the University. 

The principal attraction of Charlestown is * Bunker Hill Monument, 
a lofty obelisk on the site of the battle of Breed’s Hill (1775). It is built 
of 90 courses of Quincy granite, 221 ft. in height, and 30 ft. square 
at the base. A spiral flight of 295 steps, ranged around a hollow cone, 
leads to a chamber 11 ft. in diameter, with windows on each side. 
Above is the apex-stone, weighing 2h tons. (A small fee, 20 cts., is charged 
for admission. Books about the monument, &c., sold in the porter’s lodge). 

The * view from the top is glorious. From the S. E. window the 
Navy Yard is seen, with all its manifold activities, — its ship-houses, 
dry-dock, rope-walk, and frigates. Beyond this is the confluence of the 
Charles and Mystic Rivers, and East Boston; above which is Fort War¬ 
ren at George’s Island at the mouth of the harbor. Forts Winthrop 
and Independence, and the archipelago of variously utilized islands which 
dot the harbor, all are visible from this point. From the S. W. 
window is seen the city of Boston, with Copp’s Hill nearest on the 1. 
and the spires and domes of its church and state buildings rising on all 
sides. The great network of the northern railroads and highways crosses 
Charles River below, while, beyond the eity, the southefn and western 
2 


26 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OK BOSTON. 


roads emerge. Farther still, on the r., is S. Boston, and over it, 
Quincy, Dorchester, and the blue hills of Milton. Over Boston are Rox- 
bury and Brookline, and directly below are the houses of Charlestown. 
From the N. W. window, the State Prison, Cambridge, and Brighton, 
the McLean Asylum, the Harvard Observatory, the city of Somerville, 
Arlington, and Medford. It is said that, in very clear weather, with a 
strong glass, may be seen Mt. Wachusett (over Cambridge), and succes¬ 
sively to the r., Mt. Monadnock, Kearsarge, and the White Mts. in 
New Hampshire. From the N. E.. Everett, and Revere with its beach, 
the city of Chelsea, with the U. S. Marine Hospital, and, over it, the 
city of Lynn. Nahant runs into the sea to the r. 

The comer-stone of this stately monument was laid in 1825 by General La 
Fayette, on the fiftieth anniversary of the battle. It was completed in 1842, and 
dedicated on the sixty-eighth anniversary of the battle, in the presence of Presi¬ 
dent Tyler and his cabinet, and with an oration by Daniel Webster. In the upper 
chamber are two cannon, named “Hancock” and “Adams,” each inscribed, 
“ This is one of four cannons which constituted the whole train of field-artillery 
possessed by the British colonies of North America at the commencement of the 
war, on the 19th of April, 1775. This cannon and its fellow, belonging to a num¬ 
ber of citizens of Boston, were used in many engagements during the war. .The 
other two, the propei’ty of the Government of Massachusetts, were taken by the 
enemy.” 

Battle of Bunker Kill 

“ In their ragged regimentals 
Stood the old Continentals, 

Yielding not. 

When the grenadiers were lunging, 

And like hail fell the plunging 
Cannon-shot ; 

Where the tiles 
Of the isles 

From the smoky night-encampment bore the banner of the rampant unicorn. 

And grummer, grummer, grummer, rolled the roll of the drummer through the morn.” 

After an impressive prayer by President Langdon, of Harvard College, on a 
starry night of June, 1775, Colonel Prescott led a thousand men to Bunker Hill. 
His force was composed of troops from Essex, Middlesex, and Connecticut, with 
Gridley’s artillery. His orders were to fortify the hill, but a council of officers of 
the detachment changed the plan, and they occupied Breed’s Hill, as much nearer 
Boston and more surely commanding the roads to the north. The work was 
commenced at midnight, under the supervision of General Gridley, an old veteran 
of the Louisbourg and Canadian wars, and by dawn they had completed a redoubt 
132 ft. square and 6 ft. high. The frigates in Charles River first saw it, and 
opened a tremendous fire, which awoke all Boston. The batteries on Copp’s Hill 
then opened fire, and at noon 2,000 picked men from the British garrison crossed 
the river. The New England flag (blue, with St. George’s Cross on the pine-tree 
emblem) was hoisted over the redoubt, and the 1st and 2d New Hampshire rein¬ 
forced the weary provincials. At 2 o’clock 2,000 more soldiers crossed from Bos¬ 
ton, and soon after, after a furious cannonade from Copp’s Hill and the fleet, the 
British column advanced. Gen. Putnam ordered the Americans to hold their 
fire until they could see the whites of the assailants’ eyes ; and 1500 silent and 
determined men waited till that appointed time, and then fired. “Whole platoons 
of the British regulars were laid upon the earth, like grass by the mower’s scythe. 
Other deadly volleys followed, and the enemy, disconcerted, broke, and fled 
toward the water.” While they rallied, the Copp’s Hill guns showered hot shot 
and carcasses on Charlestown. 200 houses soon were burning, and under cover of 
dense masses of smoke the royal forces advanced again. The volley at short 
range, the carnage, and the flight of the British, was repeated. The American 
ammunition was now exhausted, the presence of floating batteries raking Charles- 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 27 


town Neck prevented either reinforcements or fresh supplies from reaching them ; 
and the British, heavily reinforced, and maddened by their losses, advanced a 
third time. The outworks, swept by the shot from the fleet, were abandoned, and 
when the grenadiers rose upon the parapet of the redoubt, they were received 
by a shower of stones, and confronted by men with clubbed muskets. Soon Put¬ 
nam ordered a retreat, which was covered admirably by the troops of New Hamp¬ 
shire and Connecticut. But the reserves on Bunker Hill, the rear-guard, and the 
shattered garrison from Breed’s Hill, were unequal to further effort, and there 
ensued a general debandade across the cannon-swept Charlestown Neck. The day 
was ended ; and although Howe soon moved the bulk of His army on these Hills, 
which he strongly fortified, no further combats were seen here. In the battle of 
the 17th of June, the Americans lost 115 killed, 305 wounded, and 30 prisoners ; 
the British lost 228 killed, 828 wounded (Gage’s report). 400 houses were burnt 
in Charlestown, and 5 cannon were taken on Bunker Hill. During the retreat 
from the redoubt, Putnam swore frightfully at his men, and after the war, sin¬ 
cerely confessing it to the church of which he was a member, he added, “ It was 
almost enough to make an angel swear, to see the cowards refuse to secure a vic¬ 
tory so nearly won.” Among the last to leave the hill was Warren, and ere he 
had gone far he was killed by a shot in the head. Joseph Warren, born Roxbury, 
1740, was the head of the medical profession in Boston, and a wise and patriotic 
leader of the people. He was the President of the Provincial Congress, a major- 
general of the army, and Grand Master of the Masonic Order in America. “He 
fell with a numerous band of kindred spirits — the gray-haired veteran, the strip¬ 
ling in the flower of youth — who had stood side by side on that dreadful day, 
and fell together, like the beauty of Israel in their high places.” — Everett. 

Chelsea (6 Hty Hotel), a city of 28,000 inhabitants, is 

connected, with Boston by a steam ferry (1§ M.), and with Charlestown 
by a long bridge over the Mystic River. The U. 

S. Marine Hospital, a large and stately building, is here. Near 

the Railroad Station is a Soldiers’ Monument, — a shaft of granite with a 
statue of a soldier standing at ease upon its summit. Woodlawn Ceme¬ 
tery is about 2 M. from the city, and is approached by a graceful ave¬ 
nue, leading through a lofty Gothic gateway. The Rock Tower, to the 
right, is a rude pile of boulders, 78 ft. in diameter and 30 ft. high, 
from which a pretty view is obtained. Netherwood and Woodside Aves. 
form beautiful vistas, with the quiet grace of American cemeteries on 
every hand. Netherwood Pond, the views from Chapel and Elm Hills, 
and the curious Ginko trees, are worthy of attention. 

Chelsea has 13 churches, 4 newspapers, a costly high-school building, a 
bank, and some manufactures. It was settled in 1630, and incorporated 
in 1738, and was so unprogressive for many decades that the saying “ As 
dead as Chelsea” became proverbial. Many persons doing business in 
Boston live here, favored by cheap rents in this quiet and pleasant city. 
Revere Beach is 2-3 M. distant, and is reached by horse-cars (see page 
409). 

The Mass. Soldiers’ Home (for veterans of the Civil War) is on Chelsea Highlands 
fthe ancient Powder-Horn Hill), over the suburb of Careyville. The hill is 300 ft. 
high, and commands a superb view, including Boston Harbor, the Ocean, the Blue 
Hills’ ten cities and many villages, and the mountains on the N. W. It is near a 
station of the Eastern R. R , and but a short drive from Revere Beach. 

The Chelsea pottery and tiles are famous for their artistic beauty ; also, the tile 
stoves and Magee furnaces. 


28 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Lexington and Concord. (See page 405.) 

« 

The * Massachusetts House, at Lexington, was built for the headquarters of the 
State on the Philadelphia-Centennial grounds, and afterwards removed to this 
village. It is a quaint-appearing structure', in colonial architecture, and now 
serves for a hotel and summer-resort. 

Lexington {Monument House), a quiet and pretty village 12 to 15 
M. N. VV. of Boston, is built on one long street, terminating on the 
west in a broad green, on which is a plain monument, more solid than 
graceful, in memory of 8 men killed here during the battle. 

Concord ( Wright's Tavern), near the tranquil Concord River, and 
the junction of the Assabet and Sudbury Rivers (so-called), is a hand¬ 
some village of about 4,000 inhabitants, about 20 M. from Boston. 
In 1635 Peter Bulkley, of St. John’s College, Cambridge, and 21 years 
rector of Odell, was silenced by Archbishop Laud, and fled to America. 
In 1636 he purchased of the Indians a tract of land at Musketaquid, and 
founded the town and church of Concord, so-named from the peaceful 
manner of its acquisition. Bulkley wrote some Latin poems and Puritan 
theological theses, and “was as remarkable for benevolence and kind deal¬ 
ing as for strict virtue.” 

But it is during the present century that the lives of three of the foremost 
literary men of America have made Concord famous. Henry U. Thoreau (H. 
U., 1827), an eccentric yet profound scholar and naturalist, in 1845 built 
himself a hut on the shores of the sequestered Walden Pond (1 M. S. E. of 
the village), where he led a recluse life, raising a few vegetables, and occasion¬ 
ally surveying or carpentering to get money for his slight expenses. lie never 
voted, never entered a church, never paid a tax. Profoundly skilled in classic 
and Oriental literature, and an ardent naturalist, his chief delight was to make 
long pedestrian excursions to the forests and lakes and ocean-shores of New 
England. Of himself he said, “ I am as unfit for any practical purpose as gossa¬ 
mer is for ship-timber.” “ Thoreau dedicated his genius, with such entire love, to 
the fields, hills, and waters of his native town, that he made them known and in¬ 
teresting to all. He grew to be revered and admired by his townsmen, who had 
at first known him only as an oddity.”— Emerson. He died in 1862, leaving his 
great work unfinished, and his only remains are several quaint and charming 
books of travel. 

Ralph Waldo Emerson (H. U., 1821), “the sage of Concord,” or, as Fredrika 
Bremer calls him, “ the Sphinx in Concord,” is the head of the school of 
transcendental philosophy in America and in the world. Descended from 
seven generations of ministers, and himself sometime a minister, in early life 
he joined, and since has led, the most advanced and refined school of modern 
transcendental philosophy. His writings are “ distinguished for a singular union 
of poetic imagination with practical acuteness,” and also by a remarkable pungency 
and compressed lorce. During his visits to Europe much honor has been shown 
him, and many of the greatest minds of the century have visited “the pretty little 
idyllian city of Concord ” (Bremer) to hold interviews with him. Thoreau, G. W. 
Curtis, in his residence at Concord in 1844-45, and Hawthorne have been his 
friends at home. (The old Emerson homestead was burnt, July 24, 1872, shortly 
after which the philosopher went to Europe for a long absence.) He died in 1883. 

Nathaniel Hawthorne (Bowdoin College, 1825), whose exquisite prose composi¬ 
tion is world-renowned, lived at Concord in 1843 - 46, and here wrote the “ Mosses 
from an Old Manse.” (See Salem, Mass.) 

The Battle of Concord and Lexington. 

At midnight, April 18, 1775, General Gage sent 800 grenadiers and light infantry 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 29 


to destroy the military stores collected by the Americans at Concord. “ At first 
the whole country appeared buried in a general sleep, .... till the deep tones 
of a distant church-bell came sweeping down the valley in which they marched, 

ringing peal on peal, in the quick, spirit-stirring sounds of an alarm.Bell 

began to answer bell in every direction, .... fires blazed along the heights, the 
bellowing of the conchs and horns mingled with the rattling of the muskets and 
the various tones of the bells ” (Cooper), and when the troops deployed on Lexing¬ 
ton Green, at dawn, 100 militia men confronted them. “ Disperse, ye rebels, 
throw down your arms, and disperse ! ” cried the British commander, Pitcairn. A 
volley from the light infantry broke the line which refused to obey Pitcairn’s or¬ 
der, and under the smoke of the first shots of the War of Independence eight 
Americans lay dead on the green. Now by a rapid march the invaders occupied 
Concord, 6 M. distant, and destroyed such of the military stores as had not 
been removed. Meanwhile, 400 minute-men had gathered near the north bridge, 
1 M. from the Common, and soon they attacked and drove away 3 companies 
of light infantry detailed to guard it, upon which the x-etreat to Boston was 
oidered. All military order among the provincials was at an end ; minute-men 
were collecting from all points ; from every house, barn, and stone-wall guns 
were fired with sure aim ; and the red uniforms of dead and wounded regulars 
strewed the long road, b M. E. of Lexington church, the remnant of the de¬ 
tachment was reinforced by Lord Percy, with 3 legiments, 2 divisions of marines, 
and a battery. The pitiless provincials worried them until they reached Prospect 
Hill, in Cambridge, where 700 men of Essex, with the militia of Dorchester and 
Roxbury, stopped and held the flower of the British army until Percy’s artil- 
leiy drove them from the field, and the noble Northumbrian led his shattered 
columns on Bunker Hill, under protection of the fleet. On this memorable day, 
the royal forces lost 65 killed, 180 wounded, and 28 prisoners ; while the Americans 
lost 59 killed, 39 wounded, and 5 missing. 

Cambridge. 

W. of Boston (horse-cars from Bowdoin Sq.) is the ancient academic 
city of Cambi’idge, on the Charles River. About 3.^ M. from Boston are 
the spacious grounds and buildings of Harvard University. 

Cambridge was settled shortly after Boston, under the name of Newtown. In 
1636, the legislature of Massachusetts (then, and occasionally now, called the 
General Court) voted £400 for the establishment of a school here. In 1638 John 
Harvard, the young pastor of Charlestown (from Emanuel College, in Old Cam¬ 
bridge,), died, leaving to the young school his libi’ary and about £800 in money. 
Then the General Court advanced the school into a college, and named it Harvard, 
changing also the name Newtown into Cambridge, in memory of the old univer¬ 
sity town where, and especially at Emanuel College, so many of the founders of 
the new State had studied. In 1640 Charlestown Ferry was made an appanage 
of the College ; in 1642 its fii'st class graduated ; and in 1650 the “ President and 
Fellows of Harvard College ” were incorporated. Endowments and gifts now 
flowed in from the province and its citizens, and the young college became the 
pride of New England. In 1696, of 121 clergymen in the eleven counties nearest 
to Cambridge, 104 were graduates of Harvard. Many of the political leaders of 
the War of Independence were educated here, — Samuel Adams (class of 1740), 
James Otis (1743), Artemas Ward, first commander of the army (1748), John Han¬ 
cock (1754), Joseph Warren (1759). In May, 1769, on the occupation of Boston 
by royal ti'oops, the legislature l'efused to sit “ with British cannon pointing at 
their "doors,” so they adjourned to the college buildings. In 1775 the students 
were sent home, and the classic halls were turned into barracks for the Continen¬ 
tal soldiers. The library and apparatus were sent to Andover and Concord. The 
headquarters of the American army of investment was near the College, and the 
army numbered 16,000 men in June, 1775. Of these, 11,500 were from Massachu¬ 
setts, 2,300 from Connecticut, 1,200 from New Hampshire, and 1,000 from Rhode 
Island. The left wing, under Ward, consisting of 15 Massachusetts regiments and 
Gridley’s artillery, lay at Cambridge. Later, Knox brought 55 cannon from the 
Lake Forts, and the New York volunteers and Morgan’s Virginia riflemen joined 



30 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


the camp. The 10,000 royal troops in Boston were environed hy ‘20 miles of can¬ 
tonments, stretching from the Mystic River to Roxbnry. Thomas, with 4,000 
Massachusetts troops, and 4 companies of artillery, held the Roxbury lines ; the 
Rhode Island men were at Jamaica Plain with Spencer’s Connecticut regiment. 
The New Hampshire brigade was at Medford, and Putnam, with a Connecticut 
brigade, held Charlestown Neck and picketted Bunker Hill. The siege was 
hardly over, and the College in order once more, when the great captive army of 
Burgoyne was led to Cambridge (Nov. 10, 1777). The government ordered the 
college to be vacated, for the accommodation of the British and Hessian officers. 
But the collegiate authorities, feeling that enough had already been sacrificed by 
them in the cause of freedom, sent in such a spirited protest that the order was 
reconsidered, and the prisoners encamped on Winter and Prospect Hills until 
1770, when they were sent to (^harlottesville, Virginia. 

In 1639 the first New England printing-press was set up here, and for its 
first works printed the “ Freeman’s Oath,” “ The New England Alma¬ 
nac,” and the “Bay Psalm Book.” At present the vast University and 
Riverside Presses turn out hundreds of thousands of volumes yearly. 

Margaret Fuller, Countess D’Ossoli, was born at Cambridge, 1810. A fine 
linguist and conversationalist, she became an enthusiastic transcendentalist, and, 
after writing several books, and spending some time in Europe, she married Count 
d’Gssoli, but was wrecked and lost on the Fire Island coast, returning, in 1850. 

Oliver Wendell Holmes was born at Cambridge, 1809. A skilful physician, lec¬ 
turer, and microscopist, he has been Professor of Anatomy and Physiology in 
Harvard University since 1847, and lias found time to write many pleasant essays 
and humorous poems, besides two or three novels and numerous medical lectures 
and dissertations. 

James Russell Lowell was born at Cambridge, in 1819. After writing several 
volumes of poetry, ami spending some years in Europe, he returned, and succeeded 
Mr. Longfellow as Professor of Modern Languages, &c., in Harvard University. 
He has published “The Biglow Papers ” (two series),—a political satire in the 
New England vernacular ; “ The Cathedral,” and “ Under the Willows,” his later 
poems ; and several volumes of prose. He died in 1891. 

F. H. Hedge, the Unitarian theologian, Alfred Lee, Bishop of Delaware, and 
Rear-Admiral Charles H. Poor, were born in Cambridge. 

“ Harvard College was founded at Cambridge only ninety years later than the 
greatest and wealthiest college of our Cambridge in Old England. Puritan Har¬ 
vard is the sister rather than the daughter of our own Puritan Emanuel. Harvard 
himself, and Dunster, the first President of Harvard, were among the earliest of 
the scholars of Emanuel. . . . Our English universities have not about them the 
classic repose, the air of study, which belongs to Cambridge, Massachusetts ; our 
Cambridge comes nearest to her daughter town, but even the English Cambridge 
has a breathing street or two, and a weekly market-day, while Cambridge in New 
England is one great academic grove, buried in a philosophic calm, which our 
universities cannot rival as long as men resort to them for other purposes than 
work.” — Sir Charles Dilke. 

Among the most distinguished of the New-England-born alumni of Harvard 
may be named, Increase Mather (class of 165G), Cotton Mather (1078), John Adams, 
second President of the United States (1755), John Quincy Adams, his son, sixth 
President of the United States (1787), Fisher Ames (1774), W. E. Channing (1798), 
Edward Everett (1811), W. H. Prescott (1814), Jared Sparks and J. G. Palfrey (1815), 
Caleb Cushing and George Bancroft (1817), Ralph Waldo Emerson (1821), C. F. 
Adams (1825), O. W. Holmes (1829), Charles Sumner (1830), Wendell Phillips and 
J. L. Motley (1831), H. W. Bellows (1832), R. H. Dana, Jr., and H. D. Tkoreau 
(1837), J. R. Lowell (1838), E. E. Hale (1S39). 

The average age at which youths enter Harvard is 181 years ; and the students 
are generally from the middle classes, — from families of hereditary culture. •Mas¬ 
sachusetts has about § of the students ; New York has £ : and the Western States 
send 70 men. Professorships of Music and of the History of Art have lately 
been established. 700 students board at Memorial Hall, at an average cost of 
$4.52 a week each. The Medical and Dental Schools are in Boston. Between 


CAMBRIDGE. 


Routed. 31 


1661 and 1670, 45 per cent of the Harvard graduates became ministers ; between 
1761 and 1770, 29 per cent; and between 1861 and 1870, 5| per cent. 

The buildings of the University are named generally in honor of its 
benefactors. The small brick building on the corner near the horse-car 
station contains the Law Library (13,000 volumes) embracing the stand¬ 
ard works on this subject by American, English, French, and German 
writers. The law-hall and the professorship were founded by Nathan 
Dane, an eminent Essex County jurist. The large and ornate edifice next 
to Dane Hall is known as Matthews Hall. Beyond this, and at right 
angles with it, is Massachusetts Hall, an ancient building which has been 
changed into two large rooms, the lower of which is occupied us a read¬ 
ing-room. 

Beyond Massachusetts Hall is Harvard Hall, with its sober ornaments 
and belfry, and then Hollis and Stoughton Halls, between which, and 
nearer the street is the quaint little edifice (said to have been built by 
Lady Holden’s bounty) which was long used as a chapel, and was built 
early in the 18th century. Across the upper end of the quadrangle 
stretches the plain old Holworthy Hall, back of which is the Lawrence 
Scientific School. Turning now on the other side, the first building is 
the lofty, and ornate Thayer Hall, behind which is the romanesque 
Appleton Chapel. Beyond Thayer is the simple and substantial Uni¬ 
versity Hall, built of granite, and next comes the modern and Mansard- 
roofed Weld Hall. University Hall is the seat of the University gov¬ 
ernment, which consists of the President and six Fellows, with a second 
branch (Board of Overseers) elected by the alumni. The system of 
elective studies and of special series of lectures is superseding the old 
rigid course and text-book plan, and Harvard is accepting the style, as 
well as gaining the power, of the German universities. There are about 
3,000 men in the various departments of study, with 55 professors and 
many tutors, &c. Four years’ study procures the degree of B. A.; three 
years covers the courses in the Divinity and Medical Schools, and two 
years in the Law School. Beyond Weld Hall the fourth side of the quad¬ 
rangle is occupied by the noble Boylston Hall (of granite, with several 
collections inside), and the modern Gray Hall. Opposite the wooden 
Wadsworth Hall is the Holyoke House (pertaining to the college) and 
nearly opposite Massachusetts Hall is the First Church, with its venerable 
graveyard. Gore Hall, beyond the quadrangle, contains the University 
Library. It is a neat building of Quincy granite, in the form of a Latin 
Cross, and in the 14th-century Gothic style. 

The new Law School is a large and stately stone building, designed by H. II. 
Richardson, and of very interesting architectural forms. The Jefferson Physical 
Laboratoi'y stands N. of the College. A noble ideal statue ot John Harvard (by D 
C. French) was placed on the College delta in 1884. 


32 Route 2. 


HARVARD UNIVERSITY. 


In Gore Hall are 10 columns on each side of a nave 1J2 ft. long, with a groined 
roof 35 ft. high. About 380,000 volumes are kept in this hall, besides which tlie 
University has about 70,000 volumes in 8 other libraries. In glass cases, through¬ 
out the hall, are kept many literary curiosities : a MS. Ovid of the 14th century ; 
letters of Washington ; Aristotle, in black-letter Latin MS. ; ancient Greek MSS. 
of Hippocrates, Gregory Nazianzen, &c., with Evangelisteries, Psalters, &c, ; old 
Hebrew MS. of Esther (in roll); the Gospels in Latin, 8th century (oldest MS. in 
America); illuminated Latin missals ; MS. Koran; Sanscrit and Siamese books 
in leaves ; 3 beautiful Persian MSS. on silk paper; book printed in Mexico City, 
1566; Rale’s Dictionary of the Abenaki language, in his own writing; Eliot’s 
Indian Bible ; Bay Psalm-Book (1640), first book printed in America, north of 
Mexico ; medals, relics, autographs, &c. Busts of distinguished men surround 
the hall. 

* Memorial Hall is N. of the quadrangle, and is the most stately 
and imposing building in Cambridge. It was erected in memory of the 
graduates and students of Harvard who fell in the War for the Union, 
and was dedicated in 1874, having cost nearly $ 400,000. The building is 
of brick and Nova-Scotia stone, 310 ft. long, with a cloister at one end, 
and a lofty and massive tower near the other end. The * great hall (open 
to visitors) is used for various public ceremonies ; and is also the dining- 
hall of the students. It is adorned by 64 portraits of benefactors of the 
college and ancient magnates of Massachusetts, by eminent artists (10 by 
Copley, 2 by Stuart, 3 by Trumbull, and others by Smybert, W. M. 
Hunt, Page, Harding, etc.). There are also many marble busts of 
famous Americans, made by Powers, Story, Crawford, Greenough, and 
other sculptors. (Catalogues of the pictures and busts are kept near the 
main entrance.) The dining-hall accommodates 1,000 persons, being 164 
ft. long, 60 ft. wide, and 80 ft. high, with a splendid roof of open timber- 
work, supported by hammer-beam trusses. It is one-third larger than 
the largest of the English University dining-halls. At each end are 
carved screens and galleries ; and the great windows are filled with 
stained glass. The W. window is 25 X 30 ft. in area, and is of stained 
glass, bearing the arms of the College, the State, and the United States. 
The walls are wainscoted in ash 22 ft. high, above which is red and black 
brick-work, with belts of tiles. 

The Memorial Vestibule is 112 ft. long and 58 ft. high, with a marble 
floor and a rich vaulted ceiling of brown ash. At the ends are large and 
brilliant windows of stained glass; and along the arcaded sides are 
tablets of marble bearing the names, etc., of the 136 men of Harvard 
who died in the War for the Union. The great tower is entered from the 
vestibule, and commands a beautiful view. It is open to the public dur¬ 
ing the vacation season. The Theatre is E. of the great tower, and is 
entered from the Memorial Vestibule. It seats 1,300 persons, and the 
stage is 58 X 23 ft. in area. It is in the form of a half-amphitheatre, and 
is richly finished in brown ash. The Theatre is used for the Com¬ 

mencement exercises and other oratorical exhibitions. Over its windows 


CAMBRIDGE. 


livute 2. 32 a. 


are sculptured heads of Demosthenes, Cicero, St. Chrysostom, Bossuet, 
Chatham, Burke, and Daniel Webster. 

“ It is this building which holds the choicest hope and the bravest memory of 

the University.The lofty vestibule, by silent iteration, bids one lay deep 

the foundation of scholarship upon national well-being, connecting as things 
inseparable the heroic sacrifice and the heroic devotion to learning. The great 
dining-hall is at oncetfhe meeting-place of hundreds of young men, bound to¬ 
gether by all that makes youth glad ; and constantly before one are the faces of 
that long line of men, and of women too, who have joined the college by a thou¬ 
sand ties to the New England of history. The stern ancestry of early New-Eng¬ 
land days, the opulent men and women whom Copley and Stuart painted when 
the colonies were consciously and unconsciously husbanding their strengtli for 
the approaching autonomy ; the familiar faces of presidents and professors, 
whose devotion to learning remains, as a precious legacy ; the younger, nearer 
face of the hero of young Harvard, brave, generous, dying with the halo of oblo¬ 
quy, — all these forms and spiritual presences fill the air of the great hall with 
something more than an academic glory.Here is the centre of the Uni¬ 

versity of to-day, binding the past and the future, making great things possible, 
because it holds and records great things achieved.” — Horace E. Scudder. 

The Hemenway Gymnasium is a quaint and handsome building, near 
the Jefferson Physical Laboratory. The large brick building of the Law¬ 
rence Scientific School is W. of Memorial Hall, and across the street 
from Holworthy Hall. It contains large and valuable collections of philo¬ 
sophical instruments, etc. N. of Memorial Hall, among pleasant groves, 
is Divinity Hall, the Unitarian Theological School. 

The Museum of Comparative Zoology is near the Divinity Hall. 
It is open daily, from 9 to 5, and contains large and valuable collections 
in natural history and archaeology. Among its treasures are Schlagint- 
weit’s ethnographical collection of casts of heads from India and High 
Asia; large numbers of stuffed animals ; complete lines of shells and 
corals ; fossil plants and shells ; nests and eggs ; a cast of the megathe¬ 
rium ; and several valuable collections by eminent specialists. The Ob¬ 
servatory and the Botanical Gardens are on Garden St., on the high 
ground N. W. of the college. Just E. of the college-buildings are the 
residences of the president and several of the professors. 

The Old-Cambridge Baptist Church is to the E. of the college-grounds, 
and is a large and attractive Gothic structure of blue slate-stone, trimmed 
with granite, and adorned with several projecting porches and gabies. 
The Common lies to the W. of the college, and contains a handsome 
monument to the memory of the 339 soldiers of Cambridge who died in 
the War for the Union. Near this memorial are two ancient British can¬ 
non. Near the Common are the First Unitarian Church, the venerable 
Christ Church (Episcopal), and the Shepard-Memorial Church, which 
was erected by the Congregationalists in honor of Thomas Shepard, an 
Emanuel-College divine who was pastor at Cambridge from 1635 to 16-19, 
and was one of the patrons and founders of the college. “ Its location at 
Cambridge was due to him.” The church is an elaborate Gothic struc¬ 
ture, of richly and variously colored Roxbury pudding-stone ; and its 




32 6. Route 2. 


CAMBRIDGE. 


walls are broken by cloistered passages and a tall spire. In front of this 
edifice is the carefully protected Washington Elm, which is thought to 
be 300 years old. Near it the old Indian councils took place, and, at a 
later day, the town-meetings ; and under its foliage, July 3, 1775, Wash¬ 
ington assumed the command of the armies of America. 

*The Episcopal Theological School is in this vicinity, on Brattle St., 

occupying several handsome gable-roofed 
buildings of Roxbury stone, with brown-ash interior trimmings. The 
library is opposite the entrance, and the refectory is adjacent. 

The S. front of the quadrangle is formed by the beautiful Memorial 
Church of St. John, erected at a cost of $ 50,000 by a citizen of Boston, 
in memory of his brother, the Rev. Chas. Mason. The great W. window 
is of London stained glass, and represents Christ, St. John, and St. Paul. 
“ Sitting low on the ground, and surrounded by fine greensward, the 
church is a small, low-roofed, many-gabled building, full of picturesque 
niches and corners, a many-sided apsis , filled with stained glass, and with 
its facings and trimmings of Nova-Seotia stone, with here and there bits 
of dark color and fine carvings.” 

The Harvard Annex , with head-quarters on Mason St. has 241 young women 
studying in the University course. Opposite the Episcopal School is the mansion 
built before 1736; held by the Vassal! family until 1775: and later a hospital for 
the wounded from Bunker Hill. Farther out on Brattle St., beyond the old Lech- 
mere, Lee, and Faverwether mansions, is Elmwood , au old colonial house, long 
owned and occupied by the late James Russell Low ell. 

Fort Washington, near the river, is the carefully kept remnant of one of Wash¬ 
ington’s siege-batteries. Memorial tablets show the sites of Fort Putnam, Gov. 
Dudley’s house, the earliest church, etc. 

The city of Cambridge has 70,000 inhabitants, with a valuation of 
over $50,000,000, and is in four sections. E Cambridge, a manufactur¬ 
ing district on Lechmere Point, towards Charlestown ; Cambridgeport, 
near the W.-Boston Bridge ; N. Cambridge, devoted to residences ; and 
Old Cambridge, the seat of the University. It is skirted by several rail¬ 
roads, but the easiest way to reach Harvard Square is by horse-cars. 
Cambridge lias 36 churches, 6 banks, 4 savings-banks, a public library, 4 
posts of the G. A. R., 5 newspapers, and a lyceum. The factory-districts 
are remote from the University, and produce great quantities of glass and 
soap, chemicals, bricks, tinware, furniture, castings, etc. In the suburbs 
are great fruit and vegetable gardens, under high culture. 

A large, old-style house, back from the street, and nearly opposite Gore Hall, is 
called the “Bishop’s Palace.” It was built in 1761-65 by East Aptliorp, an 
Anglican Bostonian, educated at Old Cambridge, who was sent here as a mission¬ 
ary, and hoped to be appointed Bishop of New' England. But the hostility of the 
Puritan divines and people w'as so marked, that he returned to England, and was 
given a stall in St. Paul’s. In 1777, Burgoyne occupied the house as headquarters 
of the captive Anglo-Hessian army. Near Brattle St. is the house where 
Baron Riedesel, commander of the division of Brunswickers, was quartered. The 
Baroness, with a diamond, cut her autograph here on a window-pane, which is 
still preserved. Near Brattle St., on the right, is a stately old colonial mansion. 



See page 20. 































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































THE PRINCIPAL PORTIONS OF THE CEMETERY. 


1. Entrance. 

2. Chapel. 

3. Spruce Avenue. 

4. Public Lot. 

5. Laurel Hill. 

6. Walnut Avenue. 

7. Mountain Avenue. 

8. Mount Auburn Tower. 

9. Hell Path. 

10. Pine Hill. 

11. Central Square. 

12. Cedar Hill. 

13. Harvard Hill. 


14. Juniper Hill. 

15. Temple Hill. 

16. Rosemary Path. 

17. Jasmine Path. 

18. Chestnut Avenue. 

19. Poplar Avenue. 

20. Auburn Lake. 

21. Lime Avenue. 

22. Larch Avenue. 

23. Halcyon Lake. 

24. Forest Pond. 

25. Central Avenue. 

26. Road to Fresh Pond. 





































ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 


33 


ab °. V n tv ^° terraces, surrounded by broad lawns and fine elms. Built about the 
middle of the last century, the house was deserted by its Loyalist owner at the 
outbreak of 1775, and then occupied by Washington as headquarters. Here, 
through the long winter of the siege, Lady Washington often held receptions, 
ilus noble estate was the home of the poet Longfellow, who died in 1882. 

The Cambridge City Hall is a high-towered Romanesque building, of 
stone, forming three sides of a square, and rich in delicate carving and 
wrought-iron work. The Public Library is a handsome round-arched stone 
building, containing 20.000 volumes, and a memorial room, with relics and 
paintings. The Cambridge Manual Training School, near the Library, is 
one of the best in America, with fine equipments, and large classes. The 
City Hall, Library, and School were given between 1^87 and 1890 by F. 
H. Rindge, a wealthy native of Cambridge, now dwelling in California. 

Mount Auburn. 

(Horse-cars every \ hr. from Harvard Square,—1 ^ M. 5 M. from Boston.) 

A large tract of forest-covered and romantic hills on the banks of the 
Charles had long formed a favorite ramble for the students of Harvard, 
until, in 1831, it was purchased by the Horticultural Society, and a portion 
of it consecrated for a cemetery, with imposing ceremonies. This was 
the pioneer of the large rural cemeteries of America, and is but a few years 
younger than Pere la Chaise, at Paris. The whole tract of land was soon 
bought in from the Horticultural Society, and large additions have since 
been made, until now it covers 125 acres. The name “ Sweet Auburn,” 
which the Harvard men had bestowed upon it, was changed to Mount 
Auburn. “ This tract is beautifully undulating in its surface, containing 
a number of bold eminences, steep acclivities, and deep, shadowy valleys,” 
and is laid out with broad, curving avenues intersected by foot-paths. 
The emblematic iron fence which bounds the front is provided with a mas¬ 
sive granite entrance-gate of Egyptian architecture, 60 ft. long and 25 ft. 
high, on whose outside is carved, “Then shall the dust return to the earth 
as it was, and the spirit shall return to God who gave it.” From the 
gate Central Ave. runs to Pine Hill, which overhangs Consecration Dell. 
The chapel, not far from the gate, on a hill to the r., is a handsome 
Gothic edifice, abounding in pinnacles, and furnished with stained glass 
windows from Edinburgh. Inside the chapel are four noble * statues : 
Judge Story, by IP. W. Story ; John Winthrop, the first colonial gover¬ 
nor, by R. S. Greenougli; James Otis, the leader of the first aggressions 
against British misrule, by Crawford; and John Adams, representing 
the revolutionary and subsequent constitutional era, by Randolph Rogers. 
On Central Ave. is a fine statue of Hosea Ballou, an eminent Univer- 
salist divine, of Boston, not far from the statue (in a sitting posture) of 
Dr. Bowditch, the mathematician and nautical writer. Fronting the 
chapel is a majestic * memorial work (by Milmore ) representing a colos¬ 
sal lion couchant with a calm and heroic female head. The design is 
taken from a work executed in the highest perfection of Egyptian art, 

2 * c 


34 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


and is a line personification of the ancient idea of the mystic “ one who 
outlooks stars and dreams o’er graves.” Hannah Adams, the historian of 
the Jews, was the first person buried in the cemetery, and her humble 
monument is still pointed out. Near the end of Central Ave. is the 
monument to John Murray, the founder of Universalism in America. 
Spurzheim is buried near the Bowditch monument. Near the Ballou 
statue on Central Ave. is the monument erected to W. F. Harnden, 
founder of the express-business, by the express-companies of the United 
States. Under a canopy of granite is a large stone safe with bas-reliefs, 
supported on bronze claws, alongside of which a marble watch-dog lies. 
On Mount Auburn, the highest point of the cemetery, stands a massive 
and graceful granite tower, from whose top an extensive * view is enjoyed. 
The rich valley of the Charles is in full sight, from the villa-covered heights 
of Watertown to the widenings which are lined by the palaces on the 
Back Bay at Boston. The rural roads of Brookline are in the S., and 
over and beyond them rise the high hills of Milton. In the E. is Cam¬ 
bridge and the ancient walls of Harvard University, while a succession 
of bright villages stud the country to the N. and W. 

For the rest, the tranquil and shaded walks of the cemetery are lined 
with thousands of monuments, of every form and style, from simple tab¬ 
lets to costly and beautiful statues. Pretty lakelets diversify the surface 
of the dells, and platoons of obelisks rise along the hills. The gateway, 
the chapel, sphinx, and tower, are the principal objects to be seen. 
Hours may be spent in pleasant rambling through the other avenues, 
passing the graves of scores of local celebrities and magnates of Massa¬ 
chusetts. Here are the graves of Sumner and Felton, Everett and Choate, 
Fields and Channing, Prescott and Motley, Agassiz and Palfrey, Ticknor 
and Sparks, Charlotte Cushman and Fanny Fern, Longfellow and Lowell. 

N. of Mount Auburn about f M., is Fresh Pond, a pretty sheet of blue 
water, winding under the shadow of wooded hills. S. W. of Mount 
Auburn, on the banks of the Charles, is the United-States Arsenal, 
covering 40 acres, where great amounts of munitions of war are stored'. 
About 1 M. beyond, also on the river, is the village of Watertown, 8 M. 
from Boston, on the Fitchburg Railroad. Early in the 17th century a 
nomadic church from this place founded Wethersfield, Conn. In 1643 
Massachusetts ■ sent four Puritan missionaries to convert Anglican Vir¬ 
ginia. The Cavaliers drove them off, and Knowles, the Watertown pas¬ 
tor, went to England, and preached in Bristol Cathedral several years. 
John Sherman, pastor here 1647-85, bears on his tombstone, 

“Tn Sherman’s lowly prnve are lain 
The heart of Paul, and Euclid’s brain.’’ 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


Route 2. 35 


Harriet G. Hosmer, the foremost of female sculptors, was born at Watertown 
in 1830. After long anatomical studies, she went to Rome in 1852, and has since 
lived there. Most of her works are retained in Italy and England. Her most re¬ 
markable pieces are “ Zenobia in Chains,” “The Sleeping Faun,” “Fuck,” and 
“ Beatrice Cenci.” 

S. of Watertown is the city of Newton, with several villages, in¬ 
habited mostly by men doing business in Boston. Brighton (Faneuil 
Hotel), E. of Newt; n, has the largest cattle-market in New England. The 
day of market is Wednesday, when Brighton presents a lively sight. The 
abattoirs cost over $ 1,000,000, and cover 50 acres. 

S. E. of Brighton is the town of Brookline, famous for the suburban 
residences of Boston merchants. Near the station of the Boston & Albany 
Railroad (branch line) is the principal village, with tlie ornate and attrac¬ 
tive stone town-house, near which is a neat public-library building. Within 
this town is Brookline Reservoir, with a capacity of 120,000,000 gallons of 
water. Here terminates the long and sinuous brick culvert, running from 
Lake Cochituate, in Natick, which is here supplemented by iron mains, 
which carry the water into Boston. 1 M. distant is the great Chest¬ 
nut Hill Reservoir (5 M. from Boston City Hall), with a capacity of 
800,000,000 gallons. The most popular drive about Boston is that to 
and around Chestnut Hill Reservoir. Jamaica Pond, near the village 
of Jamaica Plain, and E. of Brookline, gave the first water-supply to 
Boston. From 1795 to 1840 it was carried through the city in hollow 
pine logs. In 1851 this was stopped, and now villas and immense ice¬ 
houses line the shores. In Jamaica Plain (where encamped the Rhode 
Island forces, the best equipped and disciplined in the army, in 1775-76), 
is a fine monument to the soldiers of West Roxbury who w'ere killed in 
the War for the Union. § M. from this village is the large cemetery 
of Forest Hills. (Horse-cars to and from Boston, also Providence 
Railroad.) It is entered by a large and elegant turreted Gothic gate¬ 
way of stone, bearing the inscriptions, “ I am the Resurrection and the 
Life,” and, “ He that keepeth thee will not slumber.” Near the gateway 
to the 1. is the finest receiving-tomb in New England, with a Gothic 
portico of granite, of imposing size and form. On Mount Warren Gen. 
Joseph Warren is buried ; on Mount Dearborn, Gen. H. A. S. Dearborn. 
This cemetery is larger and plainer than Mount Auburn, and is mainly 
notable for its air of rustic naturalness. Consecration Hill commands a 
fine view of the hills of Milton and the fair Lake Hibiscus. In the S. 
part is a monument “ Erected by the City of Roxbury in honor of her 
soldiers who died for their country in the Rebellion of 1861 to ’65.’ A 
bronze soldier, of heroic size, stands at ease on a granite pedestal, and on the 
inner granite tablets of the wall, about the lot, are the names of many sol¬ 
diers in letters of gold. 1 M. from Forest Hills, and a like distance 
from Mattapan, on the New York & New England Railroad, is the cemetery 


36 Route 2. 


ENVIRONS OF BOSTON. 


of Mount Hope. This is in Dorchester, an ancient town which was united 
with Boston in 1870. Over its extensive area (which is bounded on one 
side by the Bay) are scattered several villages and hundreds of country 
residences. The natural scenery is picturesque, and is diversified by hills 
and forests. At Meeting-House Hill is the old church, with a soldier’s 
monument on the green before it. At Grove Hall (horse-cars from Temple 
Place), amid ample grounds, are the buildings of the Consumptives’ Home. 

Mount Bowdoin, commanding a fine view of the harbor and city, is £ M. 
bevond; and near Harvard St. station is Sunset Rock, around which, in 
1775, were cut the fascines with which Washington’s army fortified 
Dorchester Heights. At Blue-llill Ave. is the E. entrance to the great 
Franklin Fark. 

Roxbury (Norfolk House, a large and comfortable old hotel, on Eliot 
Square). Horse-cars from Park-St. Church to Eliot Sq., kc. 

Roxbury, an ancient city, almost coeval with Boston, was united with 
that city in 1868. In 1775 the Rhode Island forces built here that power¬ 
ful fort which Washington pronounced the best in the siege-lines, and 
which seriously galled the Royalists in Boston. Upon the hill occupied 
by this fort is now the stand-pipe of the water-works, where the Cochi- 
tuate water is forced up through a boiler-iron tube to a height of 240 ft. 
above tide-marsh level, and hence supplies the highest floors in the city. 
The tower is a lofty and very graceful structure, with a fine view from the 
summit, which, however, is usually closed. Eliot Sq. is the central point 
in Roxbury, and here is the.building of the first (Unitarian) church, the 
society to which Eliot preached in the Puritan era. For the rest, the 
hilly streets of Roxbury are made beautiful by the villas of the city 
merchants and by several pretty churches, of which the venerable St. 
James’ Church, with its massive Saxon tower, is most attractive. 

Besides General Warren, who died on Bunker Hill, there were also born at Rox¬ 
bury Major-General Heath, of the Continental Army, and Joseph Dudley, gov¬ 
ernor of Massachusetts, 1702-15, while Thomas Dudley, long time governor, and 
major-general between 1030-53, had his estates and mansion here. 

John Eliot, “the Apostle to the Indians,” was pastor of the church in “ Rocks- 
bury ” from 1632 to 1090. Firmly believing that the Indians were descended from 
the ten lost tribes of Israel, he made every effort for their conversion. Acquiring 
their language, he translated into it the Bible (1063), catechism, Baxter’s Call, &c., 
and preached frequently to those villages of “praying Indians which he estab¬ 
lished and protected through the war of 1675-76. Utterly improvident in his 
charities, he would sometimes give away his whole salarv bn the day of its re¬ 
ceipt, and it was only by Mrs. Eliot’s care and economy that his four sons were 
educated at Harvard, and were ranked afterwards ‘ with the best preachers of their 
generation.’” When the old hero had become helpless, the church continued his 
salary several years, until his death. 

Franklin Park covers about 500 acres of forest and field, with high 
hills and picturesque crags. It -was opened in 1883, and is visited by 
many thousands of people on pleasant days. 


MIDDLESEX FELLS. 


Route 2. 36 a 


The Middlesex Fells. 

About 5 M. N. of Boston lies a great tract of country, of stony hills and 
table-lands, almost uninhabited, of wonderful picturesqueness, and wild, 
rugged beauty. It is within the towns of Malden, Melrose, Medford, 
Stoneham, and Winchester; and in its very heart is Spot Pond, lying 
high up among the hills. The limits of this region are defined with great 
clearness, especially on the S. and W., — a line of steep hills and ledges 
rising abruptly from the broad plain that borders the Mystic River, while 
on the E. the ledges start with still greater steepness out of the long valley 
of meadow-land through which the Boston & Maine Railroad passes. The 
nature of this region cannot be better characterized than by the application 
of the old Saxon designation, Fells, — a tract of wild, stony hills. 

From these high points the scene is an immense panorama of towns, 
cities, lakes, and rivers, with a background of New England’s rock- 
ribbed mountains, the view covering nearly 100 miles of country, with the 
ocean stretching out on the E. The view includes the following well- 
known mountains : Wachusett; next, after two or three considerable hills, 
Watatic rises in a pronounced cone; then comes the monarch of them all, 
— the Grand Monadnock; then the lofty ridge connecting Temple Moun¬ 
tain and Pack Monadnock, the Lyndeborough Range, Crotchet Mountain 
in Francestown, Joe-English Ilill, and near it the Uncanoonucs, and many 
other high and distant summits, even the Southern Kearsarge. 

Spot Pond covers over 300 acres, and is nearly 2 M. long. The water 
is naturally of the purest, being fed entirely from subterranean springs. 
It is stocked with bass, pickerel, perch, etc., and surrounded with woods 
and groves. The air is as dry and pure as is possible for New England. 
The pond was named by Gov. Winthrop, and the following extract from 
his diary may be of interest : “Feb. 7, 1G31 (0. S.) The Governor, Mr. 
Nowell, Mr. Eliot and others, went over Mystic River, at Medford, and 
going N. and by E. among the rocks, about 2 or 3 M., they came to a very 
great pond, having in the midst an island of about one acre [contains 
seven acres], and covered very thick with trees of Pine and Beech; and 
the pond had divers small rocks standing up here and there in it, which 
they thereupon called Spot Pond. They went all about it upon the ice.” 

* The Lanrjwood, is the summer-resort hotel of this great natural park, 
on high ground near pine groves, and with 8 acres of lawns. On the W. 
it overlooks Spot Pond and the blue mountains of New Hampshire; and 
on the E. it looks down on Melrose, Lynn, Salem, and the distant sea. A 
part of the hotel was erected some years ago, by an English gentleman, for 
a country-seat, amid these Massachusetts Trosachs. The prices of board 
are from $15 to $30 a week. It is less than 1 M. to Wyoming station 
(see page 275), to which free carriages are run. See also page 189. 


36 b Route 2. 


PROVINCETOWN VOYAGE. 


Boston to Provincetown, by Sea. 

This interesting and attractive route is. served by the steamer Long- 
fellow, which leaves Battery Wharf, Boston, daily (except Sunday), in 
summer, at 9 A. M., reaching Provincetown about 1 o’clock. It departs 
at 2.30 P. M., and reaches Boston before 7. Excursion tickets, $ 1. Meals 
on board; but no liquors. At other seasons the Longfellow runs less 
frequently. 

The voyage down Boston Harbor is full of interest, and its chief points 
are described on pages 22-23. In passing outside Boston Light, the course 
is laid right out to sea, running obliquely off the South Shore, with the 
populous and picturesque North Shore nearly astern. On the right the 
long levels of Nantasket Beach stretch away, with its great hotels and 
clusters of cottages, and far away over these rise the noble Blue Ilills of 
Milton. Lower down on the South Shore appear the forest-covered ridges 
of Marshfield, with the bold blue hills of Manomet, more distant, rising 
apparently island-like from the sea, beyond Plymouth. The course lies 
almost S. E., across the magnificent Massachusetts Bay, with deep-sea 
shipping now and then passing on either side. Presently the low sand¬ 
hills of Race Point rise out of the level blue horizon ahead, with the spires 
of Provincetown beyond, the town being hidden behind the hills 

Frcvincetown, see page 57. 


The waters of Boston Harbor and Massachusetts Bay are traversed in 
summer by many pleasure-steamboats. The boats to Nahant, and to Dow¬ 
ner Landing and Hingham, and to Hull and Nantasket Beach, run several 
times daily, at low fares. There are other daily routes to Plymouth, Bev¬ 
erly and Salem, Gloucester, and Provincetown ; and larger steamers, purely 
for excursion purposes, run along the North and South Shores. (See the 
daily papers.) 

Boston to Newport and New York. 

The Fall-Ricer Line. 

-..By the summer double service, Pullman vestibuled express-trains leave Boston 
(Park-Square station) at 6 and 7 p. M., connecting with steamboats starting from 
Fall River at 7 30 and 8.25 p. M. The 7.30 boat touches at Newport; the other 
goes to New York direct. They are both due at 7 30 a. m at New York. The steam¬ 
ers leave New York at 5 30 and 6.15 p. m , connecting at Fall River early in the 
morning with express-trains for Boston, etc. Meals are served a la carte on the 
boats. State-rooms command an extra price, and should be secured two or three 
days in advance 

Latterly, the trains for the Fall-River boats have run over a new route, by Hyde 
Park, Canton, Stoughton, North Easton, Taunton, and Bowenville. 



QUINCY. 


Route 3. 37 


From May to November, first-class steamboats ply between Providence and New 
York, by Long-Island Sound, leaving New l T ork at 5.30 p. m., and the connecting 
trains leaving Boston at 0.30 p. M. (from Park-Square station). 

The train soon crosses the Fort-Point Channel, and runs through S. Bos¬ 
ton and the pretty villages of the Dorchester District (see Route 2). After 
crossing the Neponset River, Atlantic station is reached: whence the Gran¬ 
ite Branch diverges to the S. W. to E. Milton and \Y. Quincy (3^ M.), in 
the Blue Hills. 

This branch was the first railroad in America (built in 1326), and over it hordes 
drew granite-laden cars from the quarries to the river. Tin; Blue Hills cover 20 
square miles, and are older than the Alps or Pyrenees. Charles of England named 
them the Cheviot Hills. In lj lirs. one can go from Bostou Common to the top of 
the dome-like chief Blue Ilill (railway to Readville; highway, 1, ! M. ; path, § M ), 
635 ft. high, and viewing 125 town and villages, Boston. Cambridge, Dorchester, 
Nahant, Cape Ann, Boston Harbor, the ocean, Ilingham, Scituate, Marshfield, the 
Plymouth hills, Duxhury, Bridgewater, Fall River, Woonsocket Ilill (R. I.), Prince¬ 
ton, Wachusett, Mt. Watatic, Grand Monadnock, Temple Mt. (N. II.), etc. 

Squantum (2 M. N. E. of Atlantic) is a bold bluff overlooking the harbor, and 
crowned by several boarding-houses and villas. At Moon Inland the great Boston 
sower (finished in 1384) empties into the harbor. Squantum was the home of 
Chickatabtit, Sachem of Massachusetts, and was named for Squantum, the firm 
friend of the Pilgrims, who, when dying, hesouerht Gov. Bradford to pray for him 
“ that, he might go to the Englishmen’s God in heaven.” 

Wollaston Heights ( Wollaston Hotel) is a beautiful village 

(founded in 1870) built on the lofty slopes of one of the easterly Blue 
Hills, commanding broad water-views, § M. N. E. is the venerable 
Quincy homestead, near which is the National Sailors’ Home, fronting on 
the hay. Quincy is the chief station in a large and picturesque agricul¬ 
tural city, much of whose land is in the estates of the illustrious Adams 
and Quincy families. It has 17,000 inhabitants, 7 churches, a paper, 70 
farms, and 700 acres of salt marsh. Opposite the granite city-hall is the 
Adams Temple , an antique church near which the two Presidents Adams 
are buried. A handsome granite shaft in the Wollaston cemetery com¬ 
memorates 113 soldiers of Quincy who died in the war for the Union. 
The Adams Academy is in this village, and the beautiful Crane Library. 

John Adams, horn in Quincy, 1735, was a firm opponent of the Stamp Act, de¬ 
fender of Captain Preston and his soldiers in the so-called “ Boston Massacre ” 
trial, and Congressman, 1774-77. In 1776, as leader of the committee on the 
Declaration of Independence, he fought the Declaration through Congress in a 
three days’debate. In 1778, 1779, and 1782, he visited Paris on a special mis¬ 
sion, and in 1782 was chosen ambassador to Holland. In 1785-88 he was minister 
to England. He was the first Vice-President, and in 1796 was elected President 
by the Federalists, defeating Jefferson, the Republican candidate, and succeeding 
Washington. From 1801 to 1826 lie lived on his estate in Quincy, and died on 
the same day as Jefferson, — July 4, 1S26, the 50th anniversary of the Declaration 
of Independence. 

John Quincy Adams, son of John Adams, born Quincy, 1767. He remained 
in Europe most of the time between 1778 and 1785, then graduated at Har¬ 
vard, and became a lawyer and publicist. He was successively minister to Hol¬ 
land,’England, and Prussia, 1794-1801. A United States senator 1803-8 ; in 1809 
he became minister to Russia, and later was appointed minister to England. Secre¬ 
tary of State, 1817-25, in the latter year he was elected President of the United States 


38 Route 3. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


(the 6tli). From 1831 to 184S lie was in Congress,, and died suddenly in the 
Capitol (1S48), his last words being. “ This is the last of earth ; 1 am content." 
Under his influence (as Secretary of State or President) great national works were 
carried on ; Florida was added to the Union ; and the South American republics 
were recognized. An opponent of the extension of slavery, and a powerful advo¬ 
cate of the right of petition, his powers continued until the la.t, and won for him 
the title of “ the Old Man Eloquent.” • 

Charles Francis Adams, his son, was born in Boston in 1807, and long lived in 
Europe. He was one of the founders of the present Republican party, was some¬ 
time a Congressman, and in 1861 received the hereditary office of minister to 
England. He held this position until 1868, an arduous duty, since, during this 
time, the (unofficial but efficient) English sympathy with the Rebel States re¬ 
quired sleepless vigilance on his part. In 1872 he was one of the commissioners 
to Geneva (for the settlement of the “ Alabama” trouble), and conducted his part 
of the work with great skill. 

John Hancock, bom at Quincy 1737, became a wealthy Boston merchant, and 
early opposed the aggressions of Parliament, so that he and Samuel Adams alone 
Avere excepted from the general pardon which General Gage offered to the 
Americans. Sometime President of the Provincial Congress, in 1775 he was 
President of the Continental Congress, and was the first to sign the Declaration 
of Independence. Later he became an officer in the militia, and was governor of 
Massachusetts 17S0-85, and 1787-03. 

This district was first settled by Weston’s company (1622), and Wollaston’s 
(1625), at a place called Merry Mount, where their conduct was so opposed to 
the principles of the Pdgrimsthat Miles Standish marched iroin Plymouth against 
these jovial Episcopalians, and sent their chiefs captive to England. In 1630 
the Plymouth forces made another damaging attack on Merry Mount. Thomas 
Morton, of this colony, who was twice banished to England, and once imprisoned 
for-one year by the Plymouth government, wrote the “ New English Canaan,” in 
which he gives the following account of the aborigines: “The Indians maybe 
rather accompted as living richly, wanting nothing that is needful; and to be 
commended for leading a contented life, me younger being ruled by the elder, and 
the elder ruled by the Powahs, and the Powahs are ruled by the Devill, and then 
you may imagine what good rule is like to be amongst them.” This curiously 
agrees with Cotton Mather’s theory that “the Indians are under the special pro¬ 
tection of the Devill.” 

At Braintree, in an ancient farming-town of 5,000 inhabitants, with 
granite-quarries and shoe-factories, and the stately Thayer Academy, a 
railway diverges to Cohasset and Marshfield; and at S. Braintree a rail¬ 
way diverges to Abington and Plymouth. Stations Randolph ( Howard 
House) and Stoughton, in prosperous shoe-making towns, among the hills. 
At N. Easton is the great Ames shovel-factory (see page 53 b). Easton 
station is 2 M. N. E. of Easton. Raynham is a lowland farming-town, 
famous in the Indian wars. 

Taunton {City Hotel , $3 a day, on City Square) Avas founded by Miss 
Elizabeth Pool, a pious Puritan ladv, of Taunton, in Somersetshire. The 
settlement was on the territory of Cohannet, and King Philip Avas friendly 
to the Tauntonians until midsummer of 1676, Avhen he attacked the place, 
and Avas driven off and followed sharply until he was killed. In 1810 
there were but 50 houses here : but the water-power of the river soon induced 
the location of factories, until it became a large manufacturing city, with 
25,000 inhabitants. The Mason Machine Works and Taunton Locomotive 
Works employ 800 men. The Tack Companies make 700 A’arieties, from a 
heavy boat-nail down to microscopic tacks weighing 4,000 to the ounce. In 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 3. 39 


1871, 18,000,000 bricks were made here. The Taunton Copper Co. covers 
15 acres with their buildings, and works up 3,000,000 or 4,000,000 pounds 
of copper yearly. There are also 11 foundries, and manufactories of 
screws, stove-linings, and copper, large cotton-nulls, and a famous manu¬ 
factory of Britannia ware. With all this, the city is clean and or¬ 
derly, and clusters around the central square called Taunton Green. 
There are 19 churches, of which St. Mary’s (Catholic) on Broadway, St. 
Thomas (Episcopal), and the First Unitarian, on Church Green, are 
line stone structures. The latter is a large, rambling, Saxon-towered 
church, which looks like some secluded parish-church of Merrie England 
which was built before the Conquest. The City Hall fronts on Church 
Green, and the Public Library is next to the rude stone church (Congrega¬ 
tional) on Broadway. The extensive buildings of the State Lunatic Asy¬ 
lum are near Taunton Green, surrounded by pleasant grounds. 

Stations, Weir Junction, Weir, X. Dighton, Dighton. Near the latter 
place, on the opposite shore, is the famous Dighton Rock, — a long 
mass of granite with rude sculptures and inscriptions upon it (copied and 
published in the Antiquitates Americance, Copenhagen), which some schol¬ 
ars refer to the Norsemen in the 11th century, while President Stiles 
speaks of “the Phoenicians, who charged the Dighton Rock, and other 
rocks in Narragansett Bay, with Punic inscriptions which remain to this 
day.” It is said that near this place a skeleton was found (in 1834) with 
a brazen belt and breastplate, which is probably the same which inspired 
Longfellow’s fine poem, “The Skeleton in Armor.” Station Somerset, then 

Fall River (Wilbur House), an ener¬ 

getic and growing ciiv, which enjoys a rare combination of great water¬ 
power on the margin of navigable waters. The river rises in the Watuppa 
Ponds on the highlands 2 M. E. of the city, and falls 136 ft. in less 
than half a mile. Along this incline immense factories are drawn up like 
platoons in a marching regiment, built across the stream and resting on 
the granitic banks on either side. Over $40,000,000 are invested in these 
works, and 20,000 persons are employed in them. The great article of 
manufacture is cotton cloth, and more spindles are here engaged upon 
that work than in any other city in America. Most of the mills are now 
run by steam-power. Large quarries of granite are worked in the vicin¬ 
ity of the city, and many of its edifices, including some of the factories, 
two or three churches, and the City Hall, are built of that material. 
The city is compactly built, and fronts on Mount Hope Bay, across which 
Mount Hope looms into view. On South and North Main Sts. are the 
principal churches, the City Hall, Post Oifice, and hotels, and from the 
Citv Hall a group of parallel factories stretches westward and downward 
to the Bay. Fall River was formerly divided by the Rhode Island line, 


40 Route 3. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


but a change of boundary secured to Massachusetts, Kail River. “The 
Border City.” Its population is 75,000, 12,000 being French Canadians. 

The B. M. C. Durfee High School is a noble memorial, built in 1883-87, 
on the far-viewing Rock-Street heights, where the finest mansions are lo¬ 
cated, overlooking the bays. The city has 35 churches and 11 newspapers, 
and a public library of 36,000 volumes. It enjoys a considerable maritime 
trade, with steamship lines to Providence and Philadelphia. 

Daily stages from Fall ltiver to Westport, 8.j M.; Westport Point, 16£ ; New 
Bedford, 16; Dartmouth, 16; Tiverton, 6); Little Compton, 17 ; Portsmoutu, 10! ; 
Newport, 15.J ; Swansea, 4; Seekouk, 14! ; Providence, 17. O. C. Railroad to New 
Bedford and Providence. 

Two divisions of the Old Colony R. R. unite here, run through Tiver¬ 
ton, cross to Rhode Island, and run to Newport, 19 M. 

The palatial steamers, leaving Fall River in the early evening, stop at 

Newport. 

Hotels. — ‘Ocean House, Bellevue Ave., 400 guests, $5 a day, $30 a week ; 
Aquidueck House. Pelham St., 150 guests, $4 a day, §15 to $25 a week ; Perry 
House, Washington Sq., 160 guests, $3 a day ; Kay-Street House, 100 guests, $3 a 
day ; Pinard's, Bellevue Ave. ; Chiton House, and others. Boarding-houses of J. 
B. Brayton, and many others, on Pelham, Church and Catherine Sts. 

Reading-rooms.— At the Redwood Library; the Free Library, on Thames 
Street. *Tlie Casino, on Bellevue Ave., is a handsome old-English building, 
200 ft. long, with reading-rooms, etc , a theatre, racquet-court, tennis-lawn, etc. 
The Newport Historical Society occupies the Seventh-Day Baptist Church, built 
in 1729, and now next to the Syuagogue. The rooms are open from 10 to 2, daily. 

Churches. — Baptist, on Spring, Farewell, and Clark Streets; Catholic, St. 
Mary’s, Spring St. ; Congregatiomilist, Spring St ; Methodist Episcopal, Marlboro 
St.., Thames St., Episcopal, Trinity, Church St.; Ziou, Emmanuel, All Saints 
I Dr- Potter). Beach St. The Channing Church is of rich rose-granite, with stained 
windows by Lafarge. The Congregational Church, successor to that of Hopkins 
and Stiles, was richly frescoed by Lafarge in Oriental designs. 

Bathing, on First Beach. During the hours when the white flag floats bath¬ 
ing in costume is obligatory. While the red Hag is displayed (1 - 3 p. m. ), the beach 
is reserved for gentlemen. 

Stages run to First Beach and other points at regular hours. 

Steamboats run to Rocky Point and Providence four times daily (in summer), 
excursion tickets, 75c. : to Wickford (connecting with Shore Line R. R. for New 
York), 3 times daily ; to Narragansett Pier, 3 times daily. The magnificent steam¬ 
ers of the Fall-River Line to New York touch at Newport every evening on their 
way to New York. Daily to Block Island. 

Railroads. — The Old Colony, to Boston, 67 miles, fare, $2. Via Wickford 
(by steam-ferry) and Shore Line to New York, 180 miles. 

The harbor of Newport was first visited (during the historic epoch) by Verraz- 
zani, a noble Florentine, who was sent with the frigate Dauphin, by King Francis 
L of France, to explore the American coast. He remained two weeks here, re¬ 
fitting his ship, resting his men, and preparing reports for his royal master. The 
Dutch and English explorers visited the place occasionally, until in 1639 the settle¬ 
ment was made by exiled dissenters from the State church of Puritan land. These 
embraced Baptists, Antinomians, and many Quakers, and Rhode Island had such 
a consequent air of heterodoxy and irregularity about it that it was excluded from 
the league of the United Colonies, although it had received a royal charter in 
1665. So late as the beginning of the present century, President Dwight attrib¬ 
uted the laxity of morals in Stonington to “its nearness to Rhode Island.” So 
the little colony drew in its outlying settlements, fortified Providence, and main¬ 
tained armed vessels cruising about Rhode Island throughout King Philip’s War, 
so that no hostile Indian landed on the shores of the “ Isle of Peace.” 

Anawan, the chief captain of King Philip, and 60 of his bravest warriors sur¬ 
rendered to Captain Church after the death of Philip, being promised amnesty. 
The broken-hearted cliie delivered up his sovereign’s rude regalia, and all accom¬ 
panied Church to Newport, where, shortly after, in Church’s absence, lie was per. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 3. 41 


fidiously beheaded. The chief Tispaquin and his men also surrendered to Church 
under solemn pledges of pardon and amnesty, but the murder of this patriotic 
leader was reserved for the people of Plymouth. 

In 1729-31 Dean Berkeley gave a high literary tone to the colony, and organized 
a philosophic society and scientific discussions. The harbor of Newport was 
fortified in 1733. The royal census of 1730 reported 4,040 inhabitants in the town. 
In 1709-70 Newport stood second only to Boston in the extent of its commerce, 
being far ahead of New York. Its population in 1774 was 12,000, and in 1870 it 
was 12,518. In Dec., 1770, the town was captured by a British expedition from 
New York, and was held until Nov., 1779. Lord Percy commanded here until 
he was summoned to England to assume the Dukedom of Northumberland. 
The Hessian Waldeck regiment (1,500 men) formed part of the garrison, and 
Admiral Howe’s fleet wintered here, 1777 -78, and returned here after its battle 
with D’Estaing’s fleet off Point Judith. Later in the year D’Estaing made a 
daring demonstration, which caused the British to burn six frigates before the 
town. Sullivan and Green advanced down the island in Aug., 1778, but were 
forced to retire, after an indecisive action. In Nov., 1779, the Anglo-Hessian 
army evacuated the place, having destroyed the wharves, fortifications, &c. 
In 1779 D’Estaing worsted Admiral Arbuthnot in a petty action off Gardiner’s 
Island, and then returned to Newport. In July, 1780, a large fleet, commanded 
by the Chevalier de Ternay, “ Knight of St. John of Jerusalem, Governor of the 
Islands of France and Bourbon,” &c., appeared in the harbor, bringing 
the Count de Rocliambeau and 6,000 French soldiers (the regiments Bour- 
bonnais, Agenois, Royal Auvergne, de Saintonge, Royal Deux-Ponts, Touraine, 
Soissonais, &e.). Among his officers were Aubert Dubayet, who afterwards was 
gen. commanding Mayence and in La Vendee, and in 1796 was Minister of War ; 
Count d’Autichamp, afterwards an emigre who served in all Conde’s cam¬ 
paigns ; Viscount Beauharnais, afterwards President of the French Assembly and 
Minister of War, who was guillotined in 1794. His son Eugene became Viceroy 
of Italy, and his widow, Josephine, became Empress of France; Berthier, af¬ 
terwards Marshal of France and Prince of Neufchatel and Wagram, created by 
Louis XVIII. a Peer of France, and assassinated at Bamberg in 1815; Viscount 
de Bethisy, afterwards lieut.-gen. in the army of Conde; Christian, Count 
of Forbach, and William, his successor, fought in the Royal Deux Pouts regi¬ 
ment ; Count Axel Fersen, later Grand Marshal of Sweden ; Viscount de Fleury, 
later Marshal of France; the Duke de Lauzun, who commanded the Army of the 
Rhine and of La Rochelle, defeated the royalist La Vendee, and was guillotined 
in 1794 ; Viscount de Noailles ; Marquis de Chastellux; Viscount Laval, and his 
son, afterwards the Duke de Laval ; Viscount de Mirabeau, colonel of the regi¬ 
ment La Touraine, brother of the great Mirabeau ; Count du Muy ; Chevalier de 
Mauduit-Plessis ; Marquis de Viomenil; Viscount de Fleury ; Count de Dumas ; 
Chevalier Dupertail; Duke de Damas ; Viscount Desandrouins ; Arthur Count de 
Dillon, who defeated the Prussians at Argonne and Verdun, and was guillotined in 
1794; Marquis de Dubouchet; Baron Turreau ; Baron Viomenil; Victor de Broglie ; 
Count de Custine, a veteran of the Great Frederick’s Seven Year’s War, afterwards 
governor of Toulon, commander of the Army of the North, and of the Lower 
Rhine, and guillotined in 1793. 

In 1781 the Chevalier de Tilly broke up Arnold’s raiding fleet in the Chesapeake, 
and brought the “Romulus,” 44, and six other prizes into Newport. Through¬ 
out the war, Newport was rudely handled and gradually demolished, until Brissot 
de Warville, visiting the place in 1788, said that it resembled Liege after the great 
siege. “ The reign of solitude is only interrupted by groups of idle men standing 
with folded arms at the corners of the streets ; houses falling to ruin ; miserable 
shops which present nothing but a few coarse stuffs, or baskets of apples, and 
other things of little value ; grass growing in the public square in front of the 
court of justice ; rags stuffed in the windows, or hung upon hideous women and 
lean, unquiet children.” At the close of the Revolution, the French government 
made strenuous efforts to have Rhode Island ceded to the domain of France. 
President Adams made a naval station here, fortified with six batteries. Dr. 
Samuel Hopkins, the founder of the Hopkinsian school of theology (“System ot‘ 
Theology”), and hero of Mrs. Stowe’s novel, “The Minister’s Wooing,” preached 
at Newport, 1770-1803. Dr. Stiles, afterwards President of Yale College, preached 
here for many years. The population, which in 1782 was reduced to 5,530, rose 
slowly until the war of 1812 stopped its growth, and since then the progress of 


42 Route S. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Newport has been slow and uneven. But this unprogressive and tranquil spirit 
constitutes one of the charms of Newport, and makes of this quiet little marine 
city the Ostend, the Nice of America. 

William Ellery Channing was born at Newport in 1780 (died 1842). “The in¬ 
fluences of the climate and scenery of the island where his boyhood was passed, 
had no slight influence upon the social and moral attributes of his mind.” He 
won the highest honors at Harvard University, and afterwards was pastor of a 
Unitarian Church in Boston lor 37 years. Ho was an abolitionist, an anti¬ 
annexationist, and an advocate of peace, and his principles were sustained 
with fearless independence, plain-spoken fidelity, and a solemn and impressive 
manner. As the leader of the liberal party in the Unitarian controversy, his 
power was derived as much from the symmetrical beauty of his life as from the 
remarkable strength of his writings. “ He has the love of wisdom, and the wis¬ 
dom of love.” — Coleridge, of Channing. 

Newport, “the Queen of American watering-places,” and a semi-capi¬ 
tal of the State of Rhode Island, is on the S. W. shore of the island 
from which the State is named, and fronts, across its harbor, on Narra- 
gansett Bay. Its older portion, lying near the wharves, has many narrow 
streets, bordered with the houses of the year-round residents, many of 
which are mansions of the old time. New Newport almost surrounds 
the old town, and stretches away to the S. with a great number of 
handsome villas and cottages. The bathing and boating at Newport are 
fine, the drives over the “ Isle of Peace” are varied and pleasant, but the 
chief charm of the place is its balmy and equable climate, due, according 
to most opinions, to a divergence in this direction of the waters of the 
Gulf Stream. Dean Berkeley likened the atmosphere of Newport to that 
of Italy, while another writer speaks of the damp sea-air and equable 
climate as resembling those of England. Fogs are of frequent occurrence, 
but of short duration. There are many summer visitors from the South 
and the West Indies, while the array of literary talent which gathers here 
yearly is quite attractive. Several of the ambassadors from Europe, with 
the nobles connected with the embassies, spend their summers here. The 
feature of private cottages is largely developed here, and hotel life is quite 
subordinate to it. Wealthy New York and Boston merchants move into 
their palatial villas early in the summer, and have their horses and car¬ 
riages sent on, so that by Aug. 1 the broad, firm avenues, and the hard 
and level beaches are filled with cheerful life. 

The central point in Old Newport is Washington Square, with its mall 
and fountain. The State House fronts on this Square,— a plain but solid 
old building erected in 1741, which served as a hospital from 1776 to 1781. 
From its steps the Declaration of Independence was read, July 20, 1776, 
and in its Senate Chamber is a fine portrait of George Washington, by 
Stuart. The City Hall, the Perry Hotel, and the mansion taken by 
Com. Perry after his victory at Lake Erie, all front on this Square. Gen. 
Washington passed through this Square on his way to Rochambeau's 
headquarters in his first visit to Newport. In the evening the town 
was illuminated, and Washington, Rochambeau, and the French nobles 






















































































































BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 3. 43 


paraded through the streets. Trinity Church (on Church St.) was 
built in the early part of the last century, and was often preached in by 
Dean Berkeley (1729 to 1731). He presented an organ (still in use) to 
this church, and left a dearer token, one of his children, in the old church¬ 
yard. On Farewell St. is an ancient cemetery, where are buried many 
of the earliest colonists and their governors. The Jewish cemetery on 
Touro St. is a beautiful garden-spot kept in perfect order. Near it is 
the Synagogue, the first in the Union (built in 1762), and not now used, 
though kept in order by permanent endowments. The * Redwood 
Library is south of the cemetery, in a handsome Doric building, dating 
from 1750. An elegant though small library is kept here, and some good 
paintings, together with some fine pieces of statuary. The King of Eng¬ 
land gave 84 volumes to this library, and Dean Berkeley gave also a large 
number ; but when the evacuating British army carried even the church- 
bells with them, they spared not the Redwood Library. Touro Park is a 
favorite resort, and was the gift of Judah Touro, born at Newport in 1775, 
the son of Tsaac Touro, the pastor of the Jewish Synagogue. From 1S02 
to 1854 he lived in New Orleans, where he amassed a large fortune which 
he left to various charities, mostly those of the Christian Church, though 
he himself was a Jew. “He gave $10,000 towards the Bunker Hill 
Monument.” On this Park, surrounded by an iron fence, stands the 
* Round Tower, otherwise called the Old Stone Mill, an ivy-clad, circular 
stone tower supported on round arches. More battles of the antiqua¬ 
rians have been fought over this ancient tower than could well be num¬ 
bered, the radical theories of its origin being, on the one side, that it was 
built by the Norsemen in the 11th century, and on the other that a 
colonial governor (over perhaps 500 people), built it for a windmill in the 
17th century. Verrazzani spent 15 days in the harbor and exploring the 
land (1524), but makes no mention of this tower ; while, on the other hand, 
it is certain that the early colonists never built in such architecture or 
materials as are here seen. The only thing in favor of the mill theory is 
the fact that Gov. Benedict Arnold (died in 1678) bequeathes it in his 
Avill as “my stone-built windmill.” The opening scenes of Cooper’s 
“Spy” are laid in this vicinity; and Longfellow’s poem, “The Skeleton 
in Armor,” has told its story. But “ its history has already, in Young 
America, passed into the region of myth.” Near the round tower stands 
the statue of Commodore M. C. Perry, who opened Japan to the world 
(1854). 

The Vernon House (corner Mary and Clarke Sts.) was Rochambeau’s 
headquarters in 1780. Also on Clarke St. is'the Central Baptist Church, 
built in 1733, and next to it is the armory of the Newport Artillery Com¬ 
pany, an elite corps, formed in 1741. The first Methodist steeple in the 
world is on the church on Marlboro St. The Penrose House, on Church 


44 Route 3. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


St., a famous old colonial mansion, where Gen. Washington was once 
a guest, is now a tenement house, and the Channing Mansion (built 17201 
is near Thames St. The First Baptist Church, on Spring St., dates from 
1638. In the office of the Mercury , a weekly paper started in 1758, is 
Ben. Franklin’s printing-press, imported in 1720. The News is a bright 
daily newspaper. 

12 M. N. E. of Newport is the Stone Bridge which unites Rhode 
Island with the mainland at Tiverton. About 7 M. out is the Glen, a 
romantic spot, tree-shaded and quiet, where an old mill stands near a 
small pond. This is a favorite drive for the Newport visitors, forming an 
easy afternoon’s ride. A small hotel is situated 1-2 M. from the Glen, 
and a church in the vicinity was frequently preached in by Dr. Channing, 
“the Apostle of Unitarianism.” 

6-7 M. from Newport, on a road running to the W. of the Stone 
Bridge highway, is Lawton’s Valley, a beautiful rural resort, rich in 
verdure and in trees which are kept green by a bright stream flowing 
seaward. The Pond and Old Mill are the principal objects in the scenery. 
Over the valley is Butt’s Hill, where Sir Robert Pigott attacked the Amer¬ 
icans under Sullivan and Green on their retreat from the siege. Pigott 
impulsively attacked the halting army, and was beaten back by them 
until nightfall, when the Americans continued their retreat to the main¬ 
land, saving both their artillery and their stores. The British loss was 
260, while the New England militia lost 206 men. 3J M. from New¬ 
port, on this road, is the pretty little church of the Holy Cross, 
and near it is the farmhouse used by the British Gen. Prescott as 
headquarters. On the night of July 10, 1777, Lieut.-Col. Barton and 
a small party crossed Narraganset Bay in a boat, and took Prescott 
from his bed, carrying him into captivity. He was exchanged for 
Gen. Lee. 

The grand drive is on * Bellevue Ave., a clean, broad road, lined 
with villas, and running two miles to the S. Here, at the fashionable 
hour, passes a procession of elegant equipages only equalled in Central 
Park, Hyde Park, or the Bois de Boulogne. Many of the homes along 
this avenue are of palatial splendor, and they form a handsome panorama 
of architecture. Bailey’s Beach is at the end of Bellevue Ave.; and 
among the rocky cliffs on the shore near by is the Spouting Cave, a deep 
cavern running back from the sea, into which great waves crowd after a 
storm from the S. E. Unable to go farther, they break with a heavy 
boom, and dash upward through an opening in the roof, sometimes to a 
height of 40-50 ft. From the cliffs in the vicinity (near the Boat- 
House Landing) a noble sea-view is gained, stretching as far as Block 
Island, 30 miles S. W. The picturesque Gooseberry Island is nearer, 
in the foreground. “A finer sea-view —lit up, as it is, moreover, 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 3. 45 


by the ever truly fairy-like spectacle of ships gliding under sail over 
the waters — the eye can rarely witness.” Narragansett Ave. runs at 
right angles with Bellevue Ave., and terminates on the E. at the Forty- 
Steps (leading down the rocks). It is lined with fine houses. 

The * First Beach (about \ M. from the Ocean House) is a strip of 
white sand, hard and smooth, extending for 1 M. in length and lined 
with bath-houses. The slope of the shore is very gradual, and the surf 
is light rather than heavy, so that this is one of the safest beaches 
on the coast. It is a lively and brilliant scene here during the hours 
of the white flag in warm days, and the beach is fringed with carriages. 
The Cliff Cottages are in this vicinity. 1 M. E. is the Second, or 
Sachuest Beach, whose “ hard black beach is the most perfect race¬ 
course, and the heaving of the sea sympathizes with the rider, and in¬ 
spires him.” The hours of low tide are the favorite times to ride here. 
* Purgatory is at the W. end of Sachuest Beach. It is a wonderful 
chasm, 160 ft. long, 40-50 ft. deep, and 8-14 ft. wide at the top, torn 
out by upheaval or eaten by the waves, in the graywacke rock. Several 
feet of water remain in the chasm at low title, and in stormy high tides 
heavy masses of water boom through it. The familiar story of the 
Lover’s Leap of course attaches to this place, but is antedated by the 
legend that the Devil once threw into it a sinful Indian squaw, and his 
hoof-marks can be seen by all unbelievers. Other stories, of later date, 
attach to Purgatory, but the origin of its name does not transpire. 
Paradise is a verdant valley adorned with cottages, opening off Sachuest 
Beach, and near it is a mass of rocks and upheaved boulders called Para¬ 
dise Lost. The Third Beach is a long, quiet, and sequestered line of sand, 
above which are the Hanging Bocks, where, in a sheltered natural alcove, 
Dean Berkeley loved to sit, and look out over the wide sea, and write down 
his meditations. 

Here he composed “ Alciphron ; or the Minute Philosopher,” a series of Platonic 
dialogues defending the Christian system. Here probably he wrote the noble 
lyric ending with the prophecy : — 

“ Westward the course of empire takes its way, 

The four first acts already past, 

A fifth shall end the drama with the day. 

Time’s noblest otfspring is the last.” 

George Berkeley, Dean of Derry, a famous philosopher and idealist, conceived 
a plan for converting the American Indians by a university, and came to New¬ 
port, under royal charter, in 1729. He built the mansion “ Whitehall” inow 
a farmhouse), 3 M. from the town, but soon found that his scheme was im¬ 
practicable, and returned to England in 1731, giving his Newport estate and a line 
library to Yale and Harvard Colleges. From 1733 until his death (in 1753) he was 
Bishop of Cloyne 

Washington AUston was fond of roaming on these beaches, and Dr. Channing 
once remarked (of First Beach), “ No spot on earth has helped to form mo so 
much as that beach.” 

Sachuest Point is on the S. E. of the island, and is much visited by fish¬ 
ermen. Newport lias l l J,4.h) inhabitants (census of 18140). 


46 Route 3. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


To Miantonomi Hill, H M. from tlie city,, with its old British earth- 
works and noble view of Newport and its environs, is a pleasant ex¬ 
cursion for a clear day. Honey man's Hill, near Miantonomi, is ano; her 
far-viewing point. The old Malbone Estate (see “ Malbone; a Romance 
of Oldport,” by T. W. Higginson) was at the foot of Miantonomi Hill. 

The Pirates' Cave and Bateman’s Point are often visited, being about 
4| M. from the city, and a favorite drive is around the Neck, past 
Fort Adams, and along Ocean and Bellevue Aves. to the city again, the 
distance being little more than 10 M. 

Fort Adams, distant 3^-4 M. from the city (by Thames St. and Web 
lington Ave.). This is the strongest (save two, Fort Monroe and 
Fort Richmond) of the coast defences of the U. S., and mounts 468 can¬ 
non, requiring a garrison of 3,000 men. Its systems of covered ways, 
casemates, and other protective works, is complete. The “fort days,” 
(twice weekly), when the garrison band plays its best music, attract 
great numbers of visitors, and many carriages pass the imposing granite 
walls. The fort is armed partly with Rodman guns. 

This fortress is on Brenton's Point, named for the noble family of that name. 
William Brenton was governor of the colony 1(1(10-09 ; his son, Jahleel, was a cus¬ 
toms olficer under William Ill. ; his grandson, Jahleel, resided on the great family 
estates in the island ; his great-grandson, Jahleel, refused very tempting offers 
from the Americans, left his estates, which were afterwards confiscated, and com¬ 
manded the British frigate, the “Queen” ; his great-great-grandson, Jahleel, an 
English knight and rear-admiral of the Blue, died at London in 1844. 

Conanicut Island is opposite Newport, and is visited by several steam¬ 
boats daily. It lias a pleasant village of summer cottages, with broad 
avenues. • (See page 65 a.) 

Ooat Island, opposite the city-wharves, is the headquarters of the 
torpedo division of the U. S. Naval Service. Here is the school in which 
the young officers of the navy are instructed in the torpedo service. Lime 
Rock is beyond Goat Island, and is famed for being the home of Ida 
Lewis, the American Grace Darling, who has saved many lives in this 
harbor. Rose Island is farther out in the Bay, and has the remains of an 
old fort upon it. Fort Greene was built in 17U8, near the Blue Rocks aiH 
the line of Washington St. On Coaster's Harbor Island is the U.-S. Naval 
Training Mation, with the old line-of-battle ship “New Hampshire” 
moored off-shore. 

Rhode Island was bought from the Indians in 1G38. Its name was Aquid- 
neck, ‘‘Floating on the Water.” The discoverers named it Claudia, and a later 
exploring expedition from Holland, coming upon it in the autumn, when its forests 
were in bright colors, called it Rood Eylandt, the Red Island- Roger Williams 
tried to fasten the name “ Patmos” upon it, but Rhode Island prevailed, derived, 
according to some, from its similarity to the Isle of Rhodes, a Moslem fortress iii 
the E. Mediterranean. In that early day Neale called it “the garden of New 
England,” and even now the Rhode Island farms are the most valuable in the six 
States. Otf its shores are caught 112 kinds of fish, ranging from whales to 
smelts. The islaud is 15 M. long by 3-4 M. wide, and is “pleasantly laid 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 3. 47 


out in hills and vales and rising grounds, with plenty of excellent springs 
and fine rivulets, and many delightful landscapes of rock, and promontories, and 
adjacent lands.” 

Malbone, the celebrated portrait-painter, was born at Newport in 1777, and Capt. 
Decatur, of the navy, was born here in 1751, whose son was (Stephen Decatur, 
“the Bayard of the seas.” 

Alter leaving Fall River, and touching at Newport, the steamer moves 
on steadily through the night, passing Point Judith, Block Island, and 
Fisher’s Island, alter which she enters the tranquil waters of Long Island 
Sound. At a very early hour the narrowing W. end of the Sound is 
entered, and the shores of Westchester County are passed on the N. 
Throgg’s Neck, on the r., bears Fort Schuyler (318 guns), out on the 
Sound, wliich is mated by a strong fortress on Willet’s Point (opposite). 
After passing several villages, Flushing Bay opens to the 1., with the 
beautiful village of Flushing at its head. Richly cultivated islands and 
shores follow, up to Randall’s Island, with the House of Refuge, and 
Ward’s Island, with the Emigrant-Refuge and Hospital, and the Potter’s 
Field, where 3,000 of the poor of New York are buried yearly. The 
steamer now enters Hell Gate, a wild and turbulent succession of strong 
currents and whirlpools, caused by the action of immense bodies of water, 
in the changes of the tide, being poured through this narrow and sinuous 
strait, which abounds in rocky islets and sunken ledges. The passage of 
this point was formerly difficult and dangerous, and two or three British 
frigates were wrecked here during our wars. But immense ledges have 
been removed by submarine blasting, and now but little danger remains. 
Astoria and Ravenswood are beautiful villages soon passed on the Long- 
Island shore, after which Blackwell’s Island comes into view, with its 
long lines of charitable and correctional establishments 


The octagonal building, with two mng wings, is the Lunatic 
Asylum. One wing is reserved for each sex, while the more noisy 
maniacs are kept in a separate building on the E. The Work-Houses 
come next, where willing hands which can find no work, and vagrants, 
who will not do honest labor, are furnished with appropriate work. The 
extensive Alms-House, with the handsome house of the Superintendent, 
come next, being divided into male and female departments. Then the 
extensive Penitentiary and Charity-Hospital are passed, and, on the lower 
end of the island, the ornate building of the hospital nurses. These 

structures are all of granite, quarried here by the convicts, and probably 
there is no cluster of such institutions, in the same space, in the world, 
which combine so much of safety, comfort, and practical influence for 
correction and restraint. Deep ship-channels run on each side of the 


48 Route 4 - 


BOSTON TO S. DUXBURY. 


island, and on the Manhattan shore, opposite its centre, is the great 
German Festival-Garden called Jones’ Wood. Hunter’s Point and 
Greenpoint are now passed on the left, and a long line, on both sides of 
the East River, of foundries and factories. Then comes Williamsburg 
with its shipyards. On the 1., and beyond it, fronting on Wallabout 
Bay, is the Brooklyn Navy-Yard, the principal naval-station of the 
Union, where several U. S. frigates may usually be seen. Crowded 
wharves now stretch into the stream on each side, with forests of 
masts, while fleet and powerful tug-boats dart to and fro in the river, and 
the crowded and ever busy ferry-boats cross and recross it. The spans 
of the great East-River Bridge are seen near Fulton Ferry. 

Where Brooklyn bends off to the S. W., the steamer turns to the 
W., and passes Governor’s Island on the 1. This island belongs to 
the government, and its centre is occupied by Fort Columbus, a low-lying 
but powerful star-fort, mounting 120 guns. A water-battery on the 
S. W. commands the channel toward Brooklyn, and a tall, semi-cir¬ 
cular fort with three tiers of guns, called Castle William, looks toward 
the Battery. The steamer now rounds the Battery, the tree-shaded 
lower extremity of Manhattan Island. This was once a favorite park, 
but is now neglected. The curious round building at the water’s edge 
was built in 1807 by the government, as a fortress, under the name of 
Castle Clinton. At a later day great fairs and concerts were held here, 
and it was used as an emigrant depot. On the 1., Ellis, Bedloes, and 
Staten Islands are seen, and Jersey City and Bergen. Passing up the 
North River the boat soon enters its dock at the foot of Murray St. 
(see New York). 

4. Boston to Cohasset and S. Duxbury. 

Via Old Colony Railroad,39 M. ; 2 - 2^ hrs. 

Boston to Braintree, see Route 3. Beyond E. Braintree is Weymouth 
(Weymouth Hotel), in a rich bay-shore shoe-manufacturing town, with 8 
churches, 5 villages, 2 lakes, and picturesque shores. It has a neat sol¬ 
diers’ monument. Here, in 1623, occurred the terrible attack of Miles 
Standish on the assembled Indian chiefs, whose justifiableness has not yet 
been proven clearly. The scene is well described in the 7th part of 
“The Courtship of Miles Standish,” by Longfellow. After this affair, 
the Episcopalian colonists left, and in 1624 a company moved in from 
Weymouth, in Dorsetshire, Eng., who gave its name to the town. 

Stations N. Weymouth, E. Weymouth, W. Hingham, Hingham (see 
Route 2), Nantasket, and Cohasset. The latter is a small town with 
a quaint old church on its green. The rocky shores and resounding 
inlets along the ocean front are very picturesque, and are adorned 
with fine villas, including those of Barrett, Robson, Crane, Thorne, Boni¬ 
face, and other actors. 


BOSTON TO S. DUXBURY. 


Route 4- 49 


No district in America yields such quantities of Irish moss as do the shores of 
Cohasset and Seituate. On these same “hard sienitic rocks, which the waves 
have laid bare but have not been able to crumble,’’ in Oct., 1849, the emigrant 
vessel “ St. John ” was wrecked, and many scores of ]>assengers were lost. “ The 
sea-bathing at Cohasset Rocks was perfect. The water was purer and more trans¬ 
parent than any I had ever seen. The smooth and fantastically worn rocks, and 
the perfectly clean and tress-like rock-weeds falling over you, and attached so 
firmly to the rocks that you could pull yourself up by them, greatly enhanced the 
luxury of the bath.” — Thoreau. Capt. John Smith, when passing by one of 
these rocky promontories, in 1(114, was attacked by the Indians with arrows, 
whereupon he says, “We found the people in those parts verie kinde ; but in their 
furie no lesse valiant.” 

At N. Cohasset are the Black Rock and Rockville Houses, while 
the Pleasant Beach House is south of these, and on a point near Minot’s 
Ledge is the extensive Glades Club. Minot’s Ledge is a dangerous 
reef far out from the shore. In 1849, a lighthouse on iron piles was 
built here, but this was swept away in the great storm of April, 1851, 
and its keepers were lost. The present lighthouse (8 M. from Boston 
Light) is 88 ft. high, of which the lower 40 ft. are of solid masonry. 
Stations N. Seituate, Egypt, Seituate (South Shore House), a quiet 
old marine village looking out on the ocean through a wide harbor-mouth 
scarce a mile away. Cliff St. leads up on an eminence whence a fine 
view is gained of the sea, and the singular and desolate bluffs in the S. 
Near by is Peggotty Beach, with good bathing. 

On Coleman Heights, near Greenbush, is the Cottage House, a 

summer-hotel 150 ft. above the sea, on a plateau of 150 acres, command¬ 
ing a superb view of ocean, river, forest, and valley scenery. 

Seituate was founded in 1(548 by Kentish men, on the Indian domain of Satuit 
(whence its name). It has 4 churches, 3 hamlets, and brdad salt-marshes. The 
poem of “ Th*e Old Oaken Bucket ” was written in, and is descriptive of a locality 
in, Herring-Brook Valley, near Coleman Heights. 

HM.from Sea-View station is the * Hotel Humarock (2 00 guests; 
$2.50-3 a day), on the delightful peninsula called bv the Indians The 
Humarocks. 5 M. long, and 1,000 ft. wide, between North River and the 
sea. There are many beautiful drives in this region. From Marshfield 
station stages run 4 M. E. to Brant Rock ( Churchill's Hotel; Brant-Roek 
House , etc.), a small and unconventional sea-side 

resort: The ancient home of Daniel Webster, 2 M. from the station, was 
burned in 1878, and has been replaced by an Elizabethan villa, which 
passed out of the Webster family in 1884. To the S. is the ancient Winslow 
house, built by the Pilgrim Gov. Winslow in the 17th century. 

Here we are in the Old Colony, fragrant with the history of the Pilgrims. 

• 

A road turning to the 1. from the main road just N. of the Webster farm, and 
running toward°the sea, leads in a few minutes to an ancient burying-ground 
on an ocean-viewing hill. The first graves reached are those of the Webster family: 
Daniel and his sons, — Major Edward, died in the Mexican War, and Col. Fletcher 
Webster (12th Mass. Infantry), killed at the battle of Bull Run, 18(52. 

Daniel Webster, born at Salisbury, N. H., Jan. 18, 1782, was in the class of 
1301 at Dartmouth College, and afterwards became a lawyer. His matchless elo¬ 
quence and vast ability carried him rapidly forward, and he became a Congress- 

3 D 


50 Route 4- 


BOSTON TO S. DUXBU11Y. 


man (1813-17, and 1823-27), a Senator (1827-39,* and 1845-50), and Secretary 
of State (1840-43, and 1850-52.) “ The famous Dartmouth College case, carried 
by appeal to Washington in 1817, placed him in the front rank of the American 
bar. Among the great cases argued by him before the U. S, Supreme Court 
were those of Gibbons and Ogden (steamboat monopoly case), tnatof Ogden 
and Saunders (State insolvent laws), the Charles River Bridge case, the Alabama 

Bank case, the Girard Will case, and the Rhode Island Charter case.Dec. 

22, 1820, he delivered his celebrated discourse at Plymouth on the anniversary 
of the landing of the Pilgrims. Others of this class of efforts wero that on the 
laying of the corner-stone of the Bunker Hill Monument (June 17, 1825), and 
at its completion (June 17, 1843), and the eulogy on Adams and Jefferson, July 4, 
1826. He again entered Congress in Dec., 1823 ; made his famous speech on 
the Greek Revolution ; and, as chairman of the judiciary committee, reported and 
carried through the House a complete revision of the criminal code of the C. 
S. In the 19th Congress he made a masterly speech on the proposed diplo¬ 
matic Congress at Panama.His great speech in reply to Hayne, delivered 

in the Senate Jan. 26 and 27, 1830, on Foote’s resolution, has been declared, 
next to the Constitution itself, the most correct and complete exposition of the 
true powers and functions of the Federal Government.” As Secretary of State 
under Tyler and Fillmore, he settled the Northeastern Boundary question (Ash¬ 
burton Treaty). “ Mr. Webster’s person was imposing, of commanding height, 
and well-proportioned, the head of great size, the eye deep-seated, large, and lus¬ 
trous, his voice deep and sonorous, his action appropriate and impressive.” His elo¬ 
quence on great occasions has been called ‘‘the lightning of passion running along 
the iron links of argument.” He was very fond of rural life, of farming, and of 
fishing and hunting. On the 24th of Oct., 1852, at his home in Marshfield, died 
Daniel Webster, the foremost man in New England’s history. 

Near the Webster Monument is an iron-railed lot, containing the tombs of 
“The Honble, Josiah Winslow, Gov. of New Plymouth. Dyed December ye 18, 
1680, affatis, 62.” “Penelope, ye widdow of Gov. Winslow,” and others. 

Edward Winslow came in the “Mayflower,” and was governor of Plymouth in 
1633, ’36, and ’44. lie was a warm friend of the Sachem Massasoit. In 1635, 
while Plymouth’s agent, Archbishop Laud imprisoned him 17 weeks in the Fleet 
Prison for heretical acts. He died in 1655, while in partial superintendence of a 
fleet sent by Cromwell against the Spaniards. From Edward’s brother was de¬ 
scended John A. Winslow, rear-admiral U. S. navy, who fought in the Mex¬ 
ican War, and in the Western river squadrons, 1801-63. June 19, 1864, com¬ 
manding the “Ivearsage,” he was attacked off Cherbourg by the Confederate war 
steamer, the “Alabama.” The vessels were of about tne same strength, but so 
skilfully was the “Kearsage” protected ami manoeuvred that her opponent was 
sunk within sight of the crowded French coast. 

Josiah Winslow, son of Edward, was born at Marshfield in 1629, commanded the 
colonial armies through King Philip’s War, and was the first native-born governor 
(1673- 1680). His grandson, John Winslow, born at Marshfield, 1702, a brave and 
able officer, “ was the principal actor in the tragedy of the expulsion of the hap¬ 
less Acadians from Nova Scotia in 1755 ; and it is a singular fact that, 20 years 
after, nearly every person of Winslow’s lineage was, for political reasons, by the 
force of events, transplanted to the very soil from which the Acadians were ex¬ 
pelled.” 

Stations, Webster Place (2 M. from Webster House, at Cut River); 
Duxbury (Freeman House , GO guests; Hollis House; $7-10 a week); 
and S. Duxbury, in a picturesque old Pilgrim town. 

Duxbury was allotted to John Alden (youngest of the Pilgrims, whose great 
grandson commanded the 7tli Mask. Continental Regt., and was killed in battle at 
Cherry Valley), and io Miles Standish. The Bradfords also settled here, and Alden 
Bradford, the author, and Gamaliel Bradford, colonel of the 14th Mass. Regt. through 
the war for independence, were born here. Duxbury was so named from its be¬ 
ing the home of the military chief (dux) of the colony. Standish lived on Cap¬ 
tain’s Hill, a bold promontory near S. Duxbury, on which has lately been erected 
a handsome circular stone tower, 110 ft. high, surmounted bva statue of Stan¬ 
dish. The* view thence is one of the grandest on the coast, and includes the 
picturesque village and harbor of Duxbury, with its beaches, a wide sweep of the 
sea, Plymouth town and harbor, with the Gurnet and Clark’s Island the Kingston 




PLYMOUTH. 


Route 5. 51 


forest, and the bold outlines of Manoniet Hill an 1 tV Blue TTills. Miles 
Standish, a veteran of the Flanders campaigns, came over with the Pilgrims, and 
was made the head of their armies (consisting of 12 men), although he did not 
belong to their church. He was a short man, very brave, but impetuous and 
choleric, and his name soon became a terror to all hostile Indians. He is the 
hero of a beautiful poem in nine parts, by Longfellow, called “ The Courtship of 
Mdes Standish.” 

Ralph Partridge, the first pastor of Duxbury, “had the innocence of a dove and 
the loftiness of an eagle. His epitaph is ‘ Avolavit.’” — Mather. 

The Standish Home is a seaside resort near S. Duxbury, with still- 
water bathing, fishing, etc. The scenery in the vicinity is beautiful and 
diversified, with antique houses. At Duxbury is the end of the French 
Atlantic telegraph. The railroad runs S. W. 3 M. from S. Duxbury, to 
Kingston, on the Plymouth Branch R. R. 

5. Boston to Plymouth. 

By Old Colony R R., 37£ M., in 1^ hrs. To S. Braintree, see page 37. 

Beyond S. Braintree, the stations are S. Weymouth ( Cushing House)'. 
N. Abington ( Culver House), whence a branch line runs E. to Rockland 
(Sherman House) and Hanover (stages thence to E. Pembroke and W. Dux¬ 
bury); Abington (Centennial House), | M. from station; Whitman ( Hobart 
House), whence a branch runs S. W. to E. Bridgewater and Bridgewater; 
N. Hanson; S. Hanson, with daily stage to Pembroke, 5 M. N. E.; Hali¬ 
fax, with semi-daily stage to Halifax village, 3 31. S. W.; Plympton, near 
the summer picnic-grounds of Silver Lake, and with daily stage to Plymp¬ 
ton, 5.j M., Carver, 12|, and Middleborough, 14; Kingston ( PatuxU 
House), whence railroad to Duxbury. 

Plymouth. — Samosefr House, 150 guests, near station, $2 to $2.60 a day, $8 
to $12 a week ; Plymouth-Rock House, $8 to $12 a week ; Hotel Pilgrim, $12 
to $18 a week, 3 M. from Plymouth station, by electric cars. 

Elizabeth, Queen of England, in 1558-62, put into operation the Acts of Su¬ 
premacy and Uniformity, and the Articles of Religion, sternly forbidding all forms 
of religious worship within her realm, save those prescribed by the Church of 
England, of which site was the head. Almost simultaneously a sect sprang up, 
claiming that the Anglican Church still retained many of the. errors of Roman 
Catholicism ; while, in opposition to the Queen’s primacy and ecclesiastical laws, 
they maintained that the church was spiritual, governed by the laws of Christ 
given in the New Testament, and separate from temporal affairs and independent 
of earthly sovereigns. Hence they were called Separatists (sometimes Brown- 
ists). They were imprisoned and martyred by the government, and in 1598 many 
fled to Holland. Churches existed at Southwark and elsewhere, but the true 
birthplace of the Pilgrim Church (if not at Jerusalem) was at the deserted “Manor 
of the Bishops ” (of York) at Scrooby. Bancroft, the new primate, redoubled the 
persecutions, in 1602, and in 1608 the church at Scrooby ran the blockade of the 
English coast, and went to Amsterdam. In 1609 the Pilgrims moved to Leyden, 
and in 1620 sailed from Delfthaven, via Southampton, for America. On Sept. 
6, the “Mayflower,” previously driven back by adverse circumstances, left Ply¬ 
mouth in England, intending to reach land and settle near the Hudson River. By 
treachery or otherwise they struck the continent far north of this point, and on 
the 21st Dec., 1620, the Pilgrims landed at New Plymouth. Capt. Smith was 
severely attacked here by the Indians in 1614, and Standish’s rude forays on 
Cape Cod had enraged the aborigines, but the Wampanoag tribe, which in 1616 
numbered 30,000 souls, had been reduced by a great war, followed by a pestilence, 
to a remnant of 300. By the latter part of March, 44 Pilgrims had died, and then 
the Sachem Massasoit made an alliance with the dwindling colony. In 1622 a 
massive structure was erected for a church, with a battlemented roof and ord¬ 
nance, which made it the castle of the village. In 1621 and 1623 other companies 


& 2 Route 5. 


BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH. 


of Pilgrims crossed the sea, after which the colony throve and occupied the neigh- 
boi inglands. In March, 1021, Samoset and Tisquantum came in and told them 
of the land (the latter having been stolen by Hunt, in 1614, from the coast, and 
sold at Malaga as a slave). In 1624, the first cattle ever in New England were 
landed here, and in the same year Plymouth was found to consist of 32 houses, 
surrounded by a high palisade with fortified gates. Canonicus, chief of the Narra- 
gansetts, sent a sheaf of arrows bound with a rattlesnake’s skin, to Gov. 
Bradford, as a token of hostility. The skin was filled with powder and shot, and 
sent back to Canonicus, who understood this grim answer, and as long as he lived 
restrained his tribe from attacking the colony. As one of the United Colonies, 
Plymouth bore her part in the Indian wars, until it finally joined the colony of 
Massachusetts Bay, in 1692. 

“ Metliinks I see it now, that one, solitary, adventurous vessel, the ‘ Mayflower,’ 
of a forlorn hope, freighted with the prospects of a future state, and bound across 
the unknown sea. I behold it pursuing, with a thousand misgivings, the uncer¬ 
tain, the tedious voyage. Suns rise and set, and weeks and months pass, and 
winter surprises them on the deep, but brings them not the sight of the wished- 
for shore. I see them now scantily supplied with provisions, crowded almost to 
suffocation in their ill-stored prison, delayed by calms, pursuing a circuitous route ; 
and now driven in fury before the raging tempest on the high and giddy waves. 
.... The awful voice of the storm howls through the rigging. The laboring 
masts seem straining from their base ; the dismal sound of the pumps is heard ; 
the ship leaps, as it were, madly, from billow to billow ; the ocean breaks and 
settles witli engulfing floods over the floating deck, and beats with deadening, 
shivering weight against the staggered vessel. I see them, escaped from these 
perils, pursuing their all but desperate undertaking, and landed at last, afier a five 
months’ passage; on the ice-clad rocks of Plymouth, weak and weary from the 
voyage, poorly armed, . . . without shelter, without means, surrounded by hos¬ 
tile tribes. Tell me, man of military science, in how many months were 

they all swept away by the 30 savage tribes of New England ? Tell me, politician, 
how long did this shadow of a colony, on which your conventions and treaties had 
not smiled, languish on the distant coast? .... Is it possible, that, from a be¬ 
ginning so feeble, so frail, so worthy not so much of admiration as of pity, there 
has gone forth a progress so steady, a growth so wonderful, an expansion so 
ample, a reality so important, a promise, yet to be fulfilled, so glorious ? ” — Ed¬ 
ward Everett. 

8ee also Mrs. Hemans’ inimitable hymn, beginning, 

“ The breaking waves flashed high 
On a stern and rock-bound coast. 

When a hand of exiles moored their bark 
Ily the wild New England shore.” 

* Forefathers’ Bock, “the corner-stone of the Republic,” upon which 
the Pilgrims first landed from their shallop, is a gray sienitic granite 
boulder, near Water St. and the harbor. Over it stands a granite canopy, 
in whose attic are the bones of Pilgrims who (lied in 1620 - 21. 

* Pilgrim Hall, a fire-proof granite building on Court St., contains 
Charles Lucy’s great painting of the Embarkation of the Pilgrims, a fine 
copy of Weir’s painting of the same, Sargent's Landing of the Pilgrims, 
and ancient portraits of John Alden, Sir Walter Raleigh, the Winslows, 
etc.; also, Alden’s Bible, Standish’s sword, Brewster’s chair, Peregrine 
\\ Kite’s candlestick, Carver’s chair, Winslow’s commission from Crom¬ 
well, Lorea Standish’s embroidery, and many other relics of the May- 
flower, besides 1,200 volumes of ancient books. Every tourist should visit 
Pilgrim Hall, which is open daily. 

Among the old houses are the Carver house, part of which dates from 
1667, the Stephens house, about 1671; the Doten house, before 1669. 




BOSTON TO PLYMOUTH. 


Route 5. 53 


Town Green is at the end of Main Street. On the site of the present 
Gothic Unitarian Church older churches were built in the first days. 
The remarkably homely Church of the Pilgrimage (Cong.) stands near 
by. Opposite this church is the Town Hall, built in 1749. To the 
r. of the Unitarian Church is the path to the * Burying Hill, where 
many of the Pilgrims were interred. Ancient and moss-covered tomb¬ 
stones cover the green slopes, with here and there more pretentious mon¬ 
uments, as those to Gov. Bradford, Elder Cushman, and others, in 
1622, the embattled church was built on this hill, with six cannon on its 
sheltered fiat roof. Every man brought his gun and ammunition to 
church, and sentinels, on a tower, watched incessantly. The * view from 
Burying Hill is fine, embracing the harbors of Plymouth and Duxbury, 
Captain’s Hill, Cape Cod, Manomet Hills, &e. Leyden St., the first 
street in New England, runs E. from Town Square to the water. Near 
the foot of Middle St. and W. of the canopy-covered rock, is a small 
green space called Cole’s Hill, where were buried 50 of the Mayflower 
company (including Gov. Carver), in 1620-21. Near the Pilgrim 
Hall are the handsome County buildings ; and on Training Green, 
near the High School, is a monument to the town’s soldiers who died in 
the War for the Union. Behind the High School is Watson’s Hill, where 
Massasoit appeared in March, 1621, with 60 warriors, and concluded a 
league with the handful of Pilgrims which was sacredly kept for 50 years. 
Eillington Sea, one of the two hundred ponds which are in the vast 
Plymouth Forest (“the Adiromlacks of Massachusetts”), is about 2 M. 
from the village, and is 4^ INI. around. About 3 M. S. of Plymouth is 
the Hotel Pilgrim, a favorite summer resort. S. E. of Plymouth is 
the lofty promontory of Manomet, near which is the village (hotel) of 
Manomet Ponds. A strip of sand 3 M. long forms a natural breakwater 
before the town, on which, in Dec., 1779, the war-ship “Gen. Arnold” 
was wrecked, and 70 men froze to death on her decks. In the N. part 
of the harbor is Clark’s Island, where the Pilgrims remained Dec. 9th 
and 10th, 1620. Beyond are the prominent points of Saquish and the 
Gurnet, on the latter of which stand a lighthouse and Fort Andrew. 

On a high hill near the Samoset House stands the * National Monument to the 
Forefathers, 81 ft. high, of granite and marble The central statue, representing 
K'5th,is 3(j ft. high, the largest granite statue in the world. Her right ha" 
uplifted, and her left holds a Bible. On pedestals about the base are four sitting 
statues representing the cardinal principles of the Pilgrim commonwealth, — Mo¬ 
rality, Law, Education,-aud Freedom. Each of these is 20 ft. high, with 8 statues 
in niched panels by their thrones, each 9 ft. high. Historical records and bas- 
reliets a .oru the sides of the pedestal, and an internal stairway leads to the feet of 
Faith. 

Plymouth has 7,500 inhabitants, 2 newspapers. 2 hanks, 2 savings-banks, a public 
library, and 9 churches. It is an important port of entry Its manufactures reach 
$ 4,000,000 yearly, and include cotton duck, woollens, cordage, nails, tac ks, rivets 
zinc and copper goods, boots and shoes. The public water-supply comes from 
South Pond. 


53 a. Route 6. BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 


Plymouth is popular as a summer-resort, being kept cool by a branch of 
the great Arctic ocean-current. 1 lie Samoset and Pilgrim Houses, iia\e 
large livery-stables which afford facilities for riding to the many interest¬ 
ing places in the vicinity. Mayflowers (trailing arbutus) are found in 
abundance in the great forests near bv; where also is a great variety of 
game,—partridges, quails, black ducks, rabbits, foxes, and deer, with 
trout in the brooks, black bass and pickerel in the lakes, and many larger 
flsh in the outer bay. Manomet Blurts (Simes House, 50 guests, $8- 
12 a week) are 7 M. from Plymouth, and have been formed into a sum¬ 
mer-resort, with cottages and avenues. The facilities for hunting, fishing, 
and bathing are good, and there are broad sea-views. Near Manomet 
Point (S. Plymouth) is the Manomet House, a favorite summer resort. 

A. M. Watson and E. W. Watson have summex boarding-houses on 
Clark's Island. 


6. Boston to Cape Cod. 

By the Cape-Cod Division of the Old Colony R. R. in 4J hrs. (to Province- 
town ; fare, $ 3). Two trains run each way daily. 

Stations. — Boston to Savin Hill, 3 M. ; Harrison Square, 3J ; Neponset, 5 ; 
Atlantic, ; Wollaston Heights, (i£ ; Quincy, 8 ; Quincy Adams, 85 : Braintree, 
10: S. Braintree, 11£ : Holbrook, 15: Avon, 17; Brockton, 20; Campello, Hi ; 
Matfield. 23-J .- E and W. Br dgewater, 25 : Bridgewater, 27 ; Titicut and N. Mid- 
dlehoro', 30£: Middleboro', 34£: Rock, 39; S. Middleboro', 42; Tremont, 45; S. 
Wareham, 47 ; Wareham, 49: Agawam, 51; Buzzaras Bay, 54 (branch to Wood's 
Hod): Bourne, 56; Bournedale. 68 ; Sagamore, 60; Sandwich, 62; E. Sandwich, 
65; W. Barnstable, 69; Barnstable, 73; Yarmouth, 76 (branch to Hyannis, 79); 
S. Yarmouth, 80; S. Dennis, 81; N. Harwich, 83; Harwich, 85; Brewster, 89; 
E. Brewster, 92; Orleans, 94; Eastham, 97 ; N. Eastham, 100; S. Wellfleet, 103; 
Wellfleet, 106 ; S. Truro, 109 ; Truro, 111; N. Truro, 114; Provincetown, 120. 

The train leaves the Old-Colony station, at the corner of Kneeland and 
South Sts., and runs S. across Fort Point Channel and by S. Boston. 
Thence it runs down through the villages of the Dorchester District, with 
frequent views of the bay on the 1. The beautiful cluster of villas on 
Savin Hill, the high-placed Meeting-House Hill, and commercial Nepon¬ 
set, where it crosses the Neponset River, are passed. Beyond Atlantic 
and the modern hill-village of Wollaston Heights the line runs by ancient 
Quincy. John Hancock was born in a house now standing, S, of Quincy ; 
and the old John-Adams mansion is near by, at the foot of Payne Hill. 
Adams Street is N. W. of the station, towards Wollaston Heights, and 
is one of the stateliest avenues in New England, curving gracefully around 
the hill and passing a line of dignified old mansions, with venerable trees, 
bright gardens, and well-kept terraces. The first house on the r. across 



BOSTON TO CAPE COI). 


Route G. 5 3 b. 


the railroad, in the midst of lofty trees, is the ancient Adams mansion, 
now occupied by Charles Francis, of that ilk. On the opposite hill is an¬ 
other estate pertaining to the same family. Farther up the street are 
the beautiful Greenough houses, the one ancient and stately, the other 
modern and cheerful. A cart-road leads from Adams St. to the granite- 
quarries on Mt. Ararat, a high hill which commands an interesting view. 
The estate and house of John Quincy Adams, Jr., are near Mt. Wollas¬ 
ton. Hough’s Neck (Great-Hill House) projects into the harbor, be¬ 
tween Quincy and Weymouth Bays, and is the site of the Sailors’ Snug 
Harbor, one of Boston’s pet charities. On the end of the peninsula is the 
high bluff known as Quincy Great Hill, overlooking the harbor. The 
South-Shore Railroad diverges from Braintree ; and the Plymouth Branch 
from S. Braintree. * 

The first station beyond S. Braintree is Hdbrook, a prosperous shoe- 
manufacturing village, with a Gothic town-hall and public library, the 
handsome Winthrop Church, and the ancient Adams mansion, with its 
famous elm-tree. Franklin St. is 3 M. long, N. and S., on high ground, 
and is lined with fine old estates. Station, Avon, a place of 1,100 

inhabitants, devoted to shoemaking, with a paper and several churches. 
The scenery in the vicinity is hilly and picturesque. Brockton ( Hotel 
Belmont), the only city in Plymouth County, has 28,000 inhabitants, with 
6 papers, a library, 0 churches, and large manufactories of shoes and shoe- 
tools. furniture, etc. The country-trade is very lucrative. Main St. is 
several miles long, parallel with the railroad, and is a wide and well-shaded 
avenue. Brockton lost 5G men in the Secession War. Horse-cars to Cam- 
pello; and ten lines of stages to adjacent towns. Campello is a manufac¬ 
turing hamlet, M. S , with a considerable Swedish population. 

4-5 M. W. of Brockton, by the West-Share road, is North Easton, where 
3 ' n of the shovels made in the world are turned out at Ames’s great factories. 
The beautiful memorial church of the Unitarians, the villas of the Ames family, 
the high-school (for which the Ameses gave §40,00 ), and the rural cemetery are 
worthy of notice. The town has 2 banks, a library, a paper, C churches, and 
about 4,000 inhabitants. 

The train runs S. from Brockton near the Salisbury-Plain River, and 

A 

passes two small stations. Bridgewater (Hyland House) is a pros¬ 
perous village with great brickyards, iron foundries, manufactories of 
cotton-gins, nails, tubes, etc., and machine-works covering ten acres. 
The town has about 4,000 inhabitants, 6 churches, an academy, and one 
of the normal schools of the State. 

The Indian domain of Nunketest was bought of Massasoit by Miles 
Standish in 1645, and named Bridgewater, after a town in old Somerset¬ 
shire. In 1740, Hugh Orr erected a trip-hammer here (on Matfield 
River), and in 1748 made 500 muskets (the first made in America) for the 


54 Route G. 


BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 


Province of Mass. In the Revolution he made great numbers of iron 
and brass cannon and cannon-balls for the Continental army. During the 
Secession War 700 men were kept at work here, night and day, for the 
National Government. 

A branch railroad runs N. E. to Elmwood ; E. Bridgewater, a growing village, 
with 5 churches, 2 papers, chain and cotton-gin works, and various manufac¬ 
tories ; and Whitman (Hobart House), in a town which is famous for apples 
and milk, and for its manufactories of boots and shoes, boxes and taejes. The 
town has 2 banks, 3 papers, 9 churches, 48 schools, and 

3 posts of the G. A. R. Abington was founded in 1G4S, on the Indian domain of 
Manamooskeagin, and sent 1,100 men against the Slaveholders’ Rebellion, of 
whom 100 were lost. 

Beyond Bridgewater the Cape-Cod train passes Titicut, and soon reaches 
Middleborough (Nemasket House), where several railroads unite. This 
is a prosperous town of 8,000 inhabitants, several villages, 7 churches, a 
paper, an academy, a handsome town-hall, *a public library, and manu¬ 
factories of straw-goods, shovels, shoes, boxes, broadcloths, etc. A little 
way to the S. are the great Lakeville Ponds ; and on the E. is the town 
of Carver, with its broad lake-strewn and deer-haunted forests, beyond 
which is the ancient wilderness of Plymouth. S. of Middleborough is 
the secluded town of Rochester, with a pleasant hamlet in the N., near 
Great Quittacus Pond and Snippatuit Pond. 

Between S. Braintree and Fall River the Old Colony R. It has two lines, eastern 
and western, several miles apart. 

I he eastern line, running E. of S. from Boston to 
Middleboro, here turns sharply to the S. W. to Fall lliver and Newport. From 
Middleboro to Fall River by the main (eastern) line is 14 M., passing stations Lake - 
viLle, Muricks , and Assonet. A branch runs from Middleboro to Taunton direct, a 
distance of 10£ M. (fare, 40c.), passing the stations Lakeville, ('hace’s, E. Taunton, 
and Weir. 3 - 4 M S of Middleboro is a '■luster of great ponds, abounding in fish. 
Asowamsett Pond (Lakeville House) is the largest sheet of fiesh water in the State, 
and contains 6 -8 square miles On its shores Capt. Dernier was received by the 
Wampanoag sachems in 1619, and here the Anti English chief, Oorbitant, revolted 
against Massasoit, in 1621, and seized the Plymouth envoys. Standisli promptly 
marched forth, fell upon Corbitant’s camp by night, and achieved success in the 
first warlike expedition made from Plymouth. 

The Cape Cod Division of the O. C. R. R. begms at Middleboro. 
Stations, Rock, S. Middleboro, and Treirumt. 

Stages leave Middleborough daily in summer for Asowamsett Pond (4 M.); 
and leave Lakeville for Lakeville Ponds (2£- M.). Daily stages all the year rouud from 
S. Middleborough to N. Rochester(5 M.),and from Fieetown to E. Freetown (1$ M.). 

The Fairhaeen Branch runs in 15 M. from Tremout to Fairhaven, opposite New 
Bedford (street-cars), passing Marion ( Hotel Sippican ,200 guests, $6-12 a week), 
on the beautiful Sippican Harbor, between the villa-crowned Great Neck and 
Charles Neck, and with the summer-houses of It. W. Gilder and other notables ; and 
Mattapoi.sett ( Mattapoisett House), with its noble views over Buzzards Bay. 

Beyond Wareham (Kendrick House), the Cape-Cod train gives pleasant 
views down the N. inlets of Buzzards Bay. A branch track leads in 
M. from Onset Junction to Onset Bay ( Hotel Onset; Glen Cove ; Brockton, 
etc.), a seaside resort, where great Spiritualist camp-meetings are held. 


BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 


Route 6. 


55 


The far-viewing Tempe’s Knob , Wicket Island , and Independence Point 
are near. At Buzzards Bay, the line to Wood’s Holl (see page 58) diverges. 
Near by are the summer homes of Grover Cleveland and Joseph Jefferson. 
Soon after, the straits between Buzzards and Buttermilk Bays are crossed, 
and then follow the stations, Bourne, Bournedale, Sagamore , and Sand¬ 
wich. “The Cape extends E. from Sandwich 35 M., and thence 
N. and N. W. 30 more, in all 65, and has an average breadth of 5 M.” 
Ic is nearly all sand, with boulders dropped on it here and there. Hitch¬ 
cock thinks that the ocean has eaten out Boston Harbor, and other bays, 
and built Cape Cod of the minute fragments. A thin layer of soil 
reaches as far as Truro; “but there are many holes and rents in this 
weather-beaten garment not likely to be stitched in time, which reveal 
the naked flesh of the Cape, and its extremity is completely bare.” 

It is believed that the shores of Cape Cod are the Furdustrandas (Wonder- 
Strands) discovered by Thorhall, the Norseman, in the year 1007. (“When they 
were ready, and their sail hoisted, Thorhall sang: Let us return where our people 
are. Let us make a bird (vessel), skilful to fly through the heaven of sand, to ex¬ 
plore the broad track of ships ; while warriors who impel to the tempest of 
swords, who praise the land, inhabit Wonder-Strands, and cook whales.”) In 
1524, Verrazzani, in the frigate “ Dauphin,” coasted about Cape Cod, which is 
probably his “ Cape Arenas,” and in 1525, the Portuguese mariner Gomez, explored 
and mapped much of southern New England. The first Anglo-Saxon in New 
England was Capt. Gosnold, who coasted and named Cape Cod in the year 1602, 
having caught many codfish thereabouts, and landed at different points. 

In 1604, Champlain visited this locality, and named it Cap Blanc (White Cape), 
because the sand contrasted so with the dark rocks of the northern coasts. A 
harbor on the S. E. he named Mallebarre, which name still clings to the S. E. 
Cape. In 1609, Hendrick Hudson, with a vessel of the Dutch E. I. Company, 
rediscovered Cape Cod, naming it New Holland, and found a mermaid near by, 
concerning which (or whom) he gives a curious account. In 1614, Capt. John 
Smith visited the Cape, and describes it as “ a headland of high hills of sand, 
overgrown with shrubby pines, hurts, and such trash, but an excellent harbor for 
all weather.” Prince Charles, his patron, named it Cape James, but the name 
did not take. About this time the infamous Capt. Hunt kidnapped a ship-load 
of Indians from the coast, so when Harlow landed at the Cape late in 1614, he 
was attacked, and only escaped (with loss) by cannonading the attacking flotilla 
of canoes. In 1616, a French ship grounded or anchored near the Cape, was car¬ 
ried by boarding, and the Indians killed all on board save four, whom they sent 
far and wide through the country as curious trophies. The horrible pestilence 
which immediately after passed over Massachusetts, was attributed by the Indian 
doctors to this fact. In 1620, the vanguard of the Pilgrims appeared in one of 
the Cape harbors, and erelong many villages sprang up here. In 1623, the blame¬ 
less chiefs, Cawnacome, Sachem of Manomet (Sandwich), Aspinet of Nauset 
(Chatham), and Iyanough of Cummaquid (Barnstable), were with the council at 
Weymouth when Standish made his attack. They escaped and hid in the swamps 
of the Cape, where they soon died of sorrow and privation, and too late it was 
proven that they were perfectly innocent. Notwithstanding their unfavorable 
experiences of Christian civilization, the Cape Indians passed under its influence, 
r.nd soon 6 Indian churches and 18 assemblies, with 24 native pastors, were num¬ 
bered there. Consequently, at the outbreak of the war of 1675, they repudiated 
their ancient allegiance to King Philip, and remained faithful to the colonists. 

Sandwich (Central House) is a town of 1,800 inhabitants, with a 
paper, 10 churches, and 33,000 acres of wild forest. It manufactures 
flint and colored glass. The village is near Cape-Cod Bay. 

From IF. Barnstable station stages run to Cotuit Port, “the home of 
genial sportsmen,” 7 M. distant, on the S. shore of the Cape. The 


50 Route 6. 


BOSTON TO CAPE COB. 


highlands about the little harbor on which tfie village is situated are 
partly clothed with pine woods and interspersed with many fresh ponds. 
The Santuit House, near the beaches on the S. shore, is much visited in 
summer. Barnstable is a quiet village with the county buildings. 

On Great Neck, in Marshpee (Masaapee), a few M. W. ofCotuit Port, was the 
chief village of the Cape Indians who dwelt on this reservation. In 1058, Rich¬ 
ard Bourne went there as a missionary, and formed a church of which he was 
pastor until his death in 1085. Before King Philip’s War there were 10,000 
Christian Indians in New England. Many of these, including scores of the Mas- 
sapees, were killed fighting for their white brethren, or else, remaining neutral, 
were treated pitilessly by the colonists. Nearly every man of the Massapees 
joined the 1st Mass. Reg. in 1775, and but few returned. Gideon Hawley (Yale 
College, 1740) preached here 1758 - 1807- Marshpee now has 300 inhabitants. 

Osterville is on the S. shore, and is a summer-resort ( Cotocheeset House). 
3-4 M. N. E is Centreville, with the Soldiers’Monument; and the picturesque 
Great Pond (750 acres) is just to the N. Barnstable is the best farming town on 
the Cape, and has also a large fleet. The town has 4,000 inhabitants, 11 churches, 
a paper, and 20 schools. It was visited by the Pilgrims in Nov., 1020, and set¬ 
tled in 1039. The chief productions are salt hay, wood, butter, fish, corn, pota¬ 
toes, and cranberries. Carriages from \V. Barnstable station to Osterville. 7 M. 

Barnstable (Globe House) is a very quaint old place, near a deep bay. 
Yarmouth, settled in 1639, has 4 villages and 1,700 inhabitants. 

Stagey run 4.) M. from Yarmouth to the sea-viewing Nobscussett House (200 
guests, $12 to $18 a week), among the wild roses and beaches and windmills of E. 
Dennis, and near Seargo Ilill, the highest land on the Cape. 

A branch railroad runs to Hyannis (lyanough House), a decadent old port 
and summer-resort. M.S. \V\ is Hyamns Pori (Ilallett House); ami 3 M. \V. 
is Craigville ( Sabin's House ; Washburn House , $10 a week). 

N. Yarmouth station is 2 M. from tin* village (Howes’ FTotol). From 
Dennis (Nickerson House) daily stages to W. Dennis. A branch 

railway runs in 6 M. from Harwich to the pleasant old coast-village of 
Chatham, on the elbow-tip of Cape Cod. From Hotel-Chatham station car¬ 
riages run 3 M. to the * Hotel Chatham, opened in 1890, on high ground, 
near salt-water lagoons, and commanding distant views of the ocean. 
Brewster (Ocean House) is near Cape-Cod Bay. Many sea-captains be¬ 
long in this town, and Orleans (Shattuck House), and Eastham, settled by 
the Pilgrims, under the lead of Thomas Prince, who was for sixteen years 
governor of Plymouth. A fortified church, 20 ft. square, was built, and a 
part of every stranded whale was by law reserved for the ministry. 

At Millennium Grove in this town were long held extensive camp-meet- 
ings. The line now passes, on the E., the broad, sandy plains of Nauset. 
Stations, N. Eastham (Nauset House), WeUjleet, Welljleet (Holbrook 
Hotel). Wellfleet Bay opens on Cape Cod Bay, and is sheltered by a 
line of islands. The town has 1,300 inhabitants, a fishing-fleet, 3 
churches, and a soldiers’ monument. Its territory is covered with sand¬ 
hills and pine-plains, among which are 15 fresh-water ponds ; and the 
climate is remarkably healthy. Truro is to the N., with 900 inhabi¬ 
tants, 3 churches, 3 villages, and many ponds. It is a sandy desert, on 
one of whose beaches the British frigate “ Somerset ” was wrecked in 
1778, and 480 men made prisoners. Near Wellfieet, in 1718, the “ Whi- 
dah,” a pirate-ship mounting 23 guns, w r as wrecked, and 130 buccaneers 
were drowned. Truro was settled in 1700, under the name of Danger- 


BOSTON TO CAPE COD. 


Route 6. 57 


field, as it has perhaps the most fatal coast in New England. Scores of 
vessels have been dashed in pieces on its shore, and hundreds of lives 
have been lost. There is scarcely a family in Truro, or indeed on the 
whole Cape E. of Barnstable, but has lost some member by the disasters 
of the sea. Truro lost 57 men and 7 vessels, and Dennis lost 28 men in 
one day of 1841. The lofty Fresnel burners of the famous Highland 
Light shed a vivid radiance over leagues of rude coast and deep sea. N. 
Truro has farm boarding-houses, noble ocean scenery, and perfect quiet. 

Thoreau walked from Orleans to Provincetown (several days) on the ocean side 
of this “ sand-bar in the midst of the sea,” and says : — 

“ The nearest beach to us on the east was on the coast of Galicia, in Spain, 
whose capital is Santiago, though by old poets’ reckoning it should have been 
Atlantis or the Hesperides ; but heaven is found to be farther west now. At first 
we were abreast of that part of Portugal entre Douro e Mino, and then Galicia 
and the port of Pontevedro opened to us as we walked along ; but we did not en¬ 
ter, the breakers ran so high. The bold headland of Cape Fillister re, a little north 
of east, jutted toward us next, with its vain brag, for we flung back, — ‘ Here is 
Cape Cod, Cape Land’s Beginning.’ A little indentation toward the north—for 
the land loomed to our imaginations like a common mirage — we knew was the 
Bay of Biscay, and we sang : 

4 There we lay till next flay. 

In the Bay of Biscay, O ! ’” 

“ A little south of east was Palos, where Columbus weighed anchor, and farther 
yet the pillars which Hercules set up.” 

Truro is “a village where its able-bodied men are all ploughing the ocean 
together as a common field. In N. Truro the women and girls may sit at their 
doors and see where their husbands and brothers are harvesting their mackerel 
15-20 M. off, on the sea, with hundreds of white harvest-wagons.” 

The 2nd Mass. Continental Regiment marched from this L. end of the Cape, 
and the eight E. towns sent 2,000 soldiers against the Rebellion. 

In Nov., 1620, Standish and 16 men, “with musket, sword, and corslet,” 
landed at Long Point, Provincetown, chased the unresisting Indians into Truro, 
pillaged many graves, and carried off everything portable. They were attacked in 
Eastham, by Indians, but the arrows fell harmlessly from their corslets, while 
the musket-shot told on the half-clad red men. 


Provincetown (Gifford House; Central; Pilgrim; Atlantic; each $8- 
10 a week), is a curious marine village, with 4,000 inhabitants, a large 
fleet, 5 churches, a paper, public library, soldiers’ monument, and 2 banks. 
The street is 3 M. long, running around the harbor. Fine water-views are 
enjoyed from Town Hill. Daily steamer to Boston, 50 M. (See page 36 5.) 

The Harbor is a noble one, broad and clear, and is the favorite refuge 
of the fishing fleets. The energies of the townsmen are devoted to the 
fisheries —of mackerel, cod, and sperm-whales, in whose pursuit they 
search the wildest and most distant banks and bays of the N. Atlantic. 
The village lies along the beach between the sea and the desert, — an in¬ 
habited beach, where fishermen cure and store their fish, without any 
back country, save ocean-breasting knolls of white sand. 

This is the last town in that strange region where the people “are said to be 
more purely the descendants of the Puritans than the inhabitants of any other 
part of the State.” From these shores come the most daring and skilful of 
American seamen. “ Wherever over the world you see the stars and stripes float¬ 
in'’- von may have good hope that beneath them some one will he found who can 
teU you the soundings of Barnstable, or Wellfleet, or Chatham Harbor. Cape 


58 Rinite 7. 


BOSTON TO MARTHA’S VINEYARD 


Coil is the Imre and bended arm of Massachusetts ;'the shoulder is at Buzzards 
Bay ; the elbow, or crazy-bone, at Cape Malebarre ; the wrist at Iruro, and the 
sandy fist at Provineetown, behind which the State stands on her guard, with 
her back to the Green Mts., and her feet planted on the floor of the Ocean, like 
an athlete,—protecting her Bay, boxing with N. E. storms, and, ever and anon, 
heaving up her Atlantic adversary from the lap of earth, ready to thrust tor- 
ward her oilier fist, which keeps guard the while upon her breast at Cape Ann. 

The era of constitutional government dawned upon the world, when, on Nov. 
11, 1020, the storm-tossed Mayflower anchored in Provineetown Harbor. Here, 
•‘on the bleak shores of a barren wilderness, in the midst o. desolation, with 
the blast of winter howling around them, and surrounded with dangers in 
their most awful and appalling forms, the Pilgrims of Leyden laid the foundations 
of American liberty.” While the Mayflower lay in this harbor, that celebrated 
compact was drawn up and signed, which long governed Plymouth and her de¬ 
pendencies, and of which J. Q. Adams says : “ This is, perhaps, the only instance 
in human history o that positive original social compact which speculative 
philosophers have imagined as the only legitimate source of government/' This 
solemn compact (given below) was signed by 41 men (of whom 21 died in the next 
four months), 17 of whom had their wives with them, the remaining 43 persons 
being young people and children. 

“ In the name of God, Amen. We, whose names are underwritten, the loyal 
subjects of our dread sovereign lord, King James, by the grace of God, of Great 
Britain, France, and Ireland, King, defender of the faith, &c., having undertaken, 
for the glory o God, and advancement of the Christian faith, and honor of our 
king and country, a voyage to plant the first colony in the northern parts of \ ir- 
ginia, do, by these presents, solemnly and mutually, in the presence of God and 
of one another, covenant and combine ourselves together into a civil body politic, 
for our better ordering and preservation, and furtherance of the ends aforesaid ; 
and by virtue hereof to enact, constitute, and frame such just and equal laws, 
ordinances, acts, constitutions, and offices, from time to time, as shall be thought 
most meet and expedient for the general good of the colony ; unto which we 
promise all due submission and obedience. In witness whereof we have hereun¬ 
der inscribed our names, at Cape Cod, the 11th of November, in the year of the 
reign of our soverign lord, King James, of England, France, and Ireland, the 
ISth, and of Scotland the 54th, Anno Domini, 1020.” 


7. Bost .n to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. 

Via Old Colony R. Ii. and Steamers. To Martha’s Vineyard, 78 M., 3? hrs. 

New York to Martha’s Vineyard. To Fall River by steamboat, and thence to 
Wood’s Holl by rail, whence the steamer runs to the Vineyard (225 M. in all). 

Boston to Buzzard’s Bay, see pages 53a to 55. Crossing Monument River, 
the train runs down to Monument Beach (Norcross House , S12 to $25 a 
week), with its many summer-cottages; Wenaumet and Cataifmet , near 
Buzzard’s Bay; N. Falmouth; and Falmouth ( Hotel Falmouth ), the chief 
village, is a town of 2,400 inhabitants, with a beautiful Episcopal church, 
and many handsome summer-villas. Falmouth Heights ( Tower's Hotel , 
$10 to $15 a week) is 2 M. S. E., and has high bluffs, groves, and a long 
beach, and many summer-cottages. Falmouth occupies the Indian domain 
of Succanesset, and was incorporated in 1680. In 1814 it was bombarded 
by the British frigate Nimrod. 3 M. distant is the Menauhant Hotel ($10 
to $15 a week), near Waquoit Bay and close to Vineyard Sound. 

Wood’s Holl (Dexter House) is the end of the railway, where the steam, 
boat may be taken to cross the sound to Martha’s Vineyard. Here are the 
headquarters of the U.-S. Fish Commission, and the Marine Biological 
Laboratory. Northward is the beautiful little Quisset Harbor ( Quisset■ 
Harbor House). 


MARTHA’S VINEYARD. 


Route 7. 59 


Martha’s Vineyard 

Hotels. — The Sea-View, with gas, steam-heat- and elevator (200 guests); Wes¬ 
ley, §10 to SIT a week; Island, Narragansett, Pequot, Central, Naumkeag Oak- 
wood, Bellevue, Pawnee, Vineyard-Grove, Point-Breeze, etc. Highland House, 
§12 to §15 a week. The Tashrnoo, at Vineyard Haven. 

The Cedars (§15-25 a week) is a capital inn at West Chop, a cottage-colony 
of Boston patricians on a bluff at the W. entrance of Vineyard Haven- 

Steamboats daily to Wood’s Holl and Nantucket ; weekly to Portland and 
New York ; and occasionally to Gay Head, whose brilliant cliffs and wonderful 
Fresnel lightare of interest. Street-cars from Cottage City to the Highlands, etc. 

Daily Stages run from Vineyard Haven to N. Tisbury, 5'j M.; W. Tisbury, 9 M. ; 
Chi I mark, 12 M. ; and Gay Head, 19 M. The Baptist camp-meetings and the M. 
V. Summer Institute are at the Highlands. Sea-bathing , without surf or under¬ 
tow, near the Sea-\ iew and the Highland, 11 a. m. being the favorite hour. Fish¬ 
ing for blue-fish, tautog, scup, and striped bass, may be found under the guidance 
of experienced skippers. Restaurants at the Pavilion, Wesley, and’Pawnee 
Houses, etc. Pleasure-Boats at the Sea-View House. Sea-Baths at the 
bathing-houses, on Circuit Avenue. 

In May, 1602, Capt. Gosnold coasted the island on the S., and landed on a bar¬ 
ren islet (No Man’s Land) to the S. W. which he named Martha’s Vineyard. He 
then landed on this island (then called Nope), and found, in S. E. Chilmark, deer 
and all kind of game, springs and a lake of pure fresh water, four kinds of ber¬ 
ries in profusion, and trees loaded with fruitful vines. Probably then, or dur¬ 
ing his stay at Cuttyhunk (over three weeks) the name was transferred from No 
Man’s Land to its present possessor. The name is thought to have been given in 
honor of some friend of the Captain’s, or else for the lady of some one of his 
patrons. (A newspaper correspondent states that the oldest inhabitant, who 
owned these isles, gave them to his daiwhters ere he died. Rhoda took Rhode 
Island, Elizabeth took the island since named for her, Martha took and named 
Martha’s Vineyard, and as for the remaining island, Nan-took-it. The legend is 
interesting, but cannot be traced back farther than the year 1870.) From this 
island and the neighboring main, Gosnold and Pring (1603) got large cargoes of 
sassafras, then esteemed a sovereign specific in Europe. In 1614, Capt. Hunt 
stole 27 Indians at Eastham, on Cape Cod, and sold them as slaves at Malaga, for 
§ 100 each. One of them, Epenow, was carried to England, where the sly fel¬ 
low told of vast gold-mines on this island. A ship was sent over, at great ex¬ 
pense, with Epenow to show the place, but as soon as he saw the shore, he leaped 
over, swam to land, and was not seen again until Capt. Dernier landed here in 
1619. In a dashing attack conducted by Epenow, the Captain and many of his 
men were killed and wounded. In 1647, Thomas Mayliew, Governor of the Islands 
by grant from the Earl of Stirling, settled at Edgartown. The lordship of the 
isles remained in the Mayhew family from 1641 to 1710, during which time the 
kindness of these men won the hearts of the natives. The Mayhews were all 
missionaries, and, learning the Indian language, preached with such success that 
Christian villages arose all over the island. During King Philip’s War, the con¬ 
verts remained true, and guarded the shores. About 1660, some Quakers 1 aided 
here calling the Puritan pastors “priests of Baal,” but the Indians soon drove 
them off. Gookin visited the island in 1674, and found six towns of Christian 
Indians, “ a very fruitful Vineyard unto the Lord of Hosts.” For a century the 
Indians slowly dwindled, and the coasting vessels began to frequent Holmes’ Hole 
in yearly increasing numbers. In 1778, Lord Gray(who defeated Wayne at Paoli) 
with a British force, destroyed a large number of vessels in the Hole. In 1835, 9 
tents were pitched at the present Camp-Grounds, and the first camp-meeting on 
tiie island was held. 

The Wesleyan Grove, or Camp-Meeting Ground, is near the Sea View 
House and is laid out in gracefully curved streets, grass-paved and crowded 
with small but vigorous trees. Near Trinity Park, a wide lawn, is the 
great tabernacle tent 160 by 120 ft. which can shelter 5,000 persons. 
This is the centre of intense excitement during the meetings in late 
August, when from 20,000 to 25,000 people are gathered here, and emi¬ 
nent Methodist preachers address them. Lake Anthony borders the N. 
and W. of the ground, and beyond it, on the high bluffs toward East 


60 Route 7. 


MARTHA’S VINEYARD. 


Chop Light, the “Highlands” have been laid out. Cottage City was laid 
out in 1808, on bluffs 30 ft. high fronting on Vineyard Sound, and now 
contains many hundreds of handsome summer-cottages, surrounded by oak- 
groves and connected by avenues. A narrow-gauge railroad and the Sea- 
View Boulevard follow the shore S. E. to Edgartown (G M.) and Katafna. 

Edgartown ( Harbor - View House), was founded in 1G47 by Gov. Mavhew, 
and is the capital of Dukes County. The harbor is sheltered by Chap- 
paquiddick Island (5 M. long and 2 M. wide). The town has 1,300 in¬ 
habitants, a fleet, bank, paper, library, and 3 churches. It has become 
decadent since the decline of the whale-fishery. 

Katama is 4 M. S. of Edgartown, and is a summer-resort on the lake¬ 
like Katama Bay (5 M. long), with numerous cottages and the handsome 
hotel called * Mattakeset Lodye. Katama has good facilities for boating, 
bathing, and driving; also for fishing and bird-shooting. 

By walking to the East Chop Light, a view is gained of Holmes’ Hole, 
or Vineyard Haven ( Mansion House), one of the most famous harbors on 
the coast, where, in seasons of storm, hundreds of vessels take shelter 
under the lofty bluffs. Through Vineyard Sound passes the vast and 
unceasing procession of commerce from New York and Southern New 
England to Boston and the East, ♦lie island is 21 M. long, and has 4,30J 
inhabitants. 

20-25 M. S. W. of Oak Bluffs is Gayhead, near which is the Devil’s Den, a 
wild spOi, where the old Indian traditions say that the giant Moshup lived, who 
caught whales and roasted them on trees which he tore up by the roots. He 
metamorphosed lus children into iish, and, on his wife’s lamenting, he threw her 
to Seconnet, where she dwelt and levied contributions on all who passed the 
rocks, until she herself became a rock. Then Moshup disappeared from human 
sight and knowledge. Gay Head is “ the most remarkable natural curiosity in 
New England.” The sea-view from the lighthouse is grand. “Never since I 
stood on Table Rock have 1 seen a sight so grand as this.” — General Twiggs. 
About this promontory several score of half-breed Indians live a strange unsettled 
life. The remarkable cliffs by the shore have been closely studied by Prof. Hitch¬ 
cock and Sir Charles Lyell, the latter describing them as “the lofty cliffs of Gay- 
head, more than 200 ft, high, where the highly inclined tertiary strata are gayly 
colored, some consisting of light red clays, others of white, yellow, and green, 
and some of black lignite.” Here the steamship City of Columbus was wrecked, in 
lb84, and 100 lives were lost. 


Nantucket 

is 28-30 M. from Martha’s Vineyard, and connected with it by a daily 
steamer. After leaving the Vineyard astern, the islands of Muskeget and 
Tuckernuck are seen in the S., and the low shores of Nantucket. The 
town of Nantucket has a fine appearance from the sea. 

Hotels. —The Nantucket, on Brant. Point, 300 guests, $16 to $25 a week f Ocean, 
Springfield, Bav-View, Veranda, Sherburne, Sea-Cliff, and American Houses, 
$10 to $18. Narrow-gauge railroad 21 M. to Surf-Si<le ( The Surf Side, 250 
guests, $12 to $20); and M. to Siasconset. Nantucket has also many quiet 
summer boarding-houses. 

The, Indian tradition is that the Great Spirit was once smoking, when he partly 
filled his pipe with sand. When the mixed remains were emptied from the pipe 
into the sea, they formed the Island of Nantucket. Its name is said to be an 


AND NANTUCKET. 


Route 7. G1 


Indian modification of Nautikon, a name left by the Norsemen who visited it in 
the lltli century. The best authority pronounces it a corruption of an Indian 
word meaning “ iar away.” It is called Natocko on the map of 1630. It was 
visited by Gosnold in 1602, at which time about 1,500 Indians were here, and the 
island was covered with oaks. In 1604, Champlain and Poutrincourt landed here 
and remained several days, for the relief of those men of their command who 
had been wounded in a battle with the Indians at Chatham. Weary and dis- 
spirited, they ceased their explorations here, and returned to Port Royal, naming 
these sad shores “ Isle Douteuse.” In 1641, Mayhew was made Governor of 
the Islands, his sway extending here. In 1659, he deeded $ of the island to ten 
men for £30 and two beaver hats, and one family moved there, there being then 
700 friendly Indians on Nantucket. 

In 1665 King Philip visited his people here, and in 1671 the town was incor¬ 
porated (at Maddequet, 5-6 M. W. from the present town), and in 1672 moved to 
its present place. In 1672 the first whale was taken. In 1673 the town was called 
Sherburne by the New York Governor, in who;e domain it was until 1693 (the 
name was retained till 1795). The 701 English had no church or pastor, though 
the Indians had four churches. A white church was formed in 1711. In 1755-6 
9 whaling-sloops were sunk or captured, and but few men of their crews ever re¬ 
turned. In 1764, there were 3,220 whites on the island ; and a plague, the same 
year, swept off § of the Indians, leaving but 136. 1,600 Nantucket men died in 

the Continental Army. In 1784 the population was larger than it is now. In 
1821, 78 ships and 81 smaller vessels were owned here, and mostly engaged in 
whaling. The last Indian died in 1854. Notwithstanding devastating fires in the 
town, Nantucket in 1S40 had 9,712 inhabitants. 

The town (400 buildings) was burned down in 1846, and the same year 
the whaling business began to decline, until now there is but one small 
vessel engaged in it, and in the town which has houses for 10,000 people 
there are but about 3,000. The houses are of a quaint old style, with 
platforms on the roofs (whence to watch the ships coming in). The North 
Church was the first on the island, and was built in 1711. It is still used 
by the same society as a vestry, and its oaken timbers are hard as iron. 
\ M. from the Ocean House, on Centre St., is a small house which was 
built in 1682. The hospitality of the old families of Nantucket is famous, 
and its churches and schools are numerous. Many houses have been 
taken down and shipped away, but of late real estate is rising, as city 
men are securing summer homes here. Main St., at -the head of which 
is the old Pacific Bank, has the shops of the town (shells and marine 
curiosities may be bought here), and is a wide, deserted, grassy street lead¬ 
ing to the heads of silent and decaying wharves. The low, sandy beach 
which shelters the harbor stretches N. E. 8-9 M. to Great Point, leav¬ 
ing a wide and quiet lagoon between it and the island. At the Athemeum 
is a public library and a museum of marine curiosities and relics of the 
older days of Nantucket. The Squantum is a peculiar institution of the 
island, being an informal picnic on the beach-sands, where the dinner is 
made of fish or other spoils of the sea. Excursions to the fishing grounds 
are managed by veteran skippers, who let themselves and their boats 
cheaply. Tuere are rides to the ancient districts on the W. shore, and to 
the beaches on the S. shore. Siasconset (Ocean- View, 100 guests, $10- 
15 a week; Atlantic ), 8 M. from the town, is composed of a cluster of quaint 
little cottages on a high bank fronting the ocean. Surf-bathing here is 


62 Route S. 


HYDE PARK. 


safe only when the bathers use ropes, as the shore descends rapidly 1 M 
N. of Siasconset is Sankoty Head, where a powerful Fresnel light is elevated 
on a far-viewing bluff 90 ft. high. 1 M. X. of Sankoty Head is the beauti¬ 
ful Sesacacha Pond, of pure, sweet water and abounding in fish (small inn 
on the shore). In 1676 a village was built on this pond and remained for 
140 years; but its last house was torn down in 1820. Most of the island, 
over which rambles may be made, consists cf high, breezy, sea-viewing 
plains, where but few fences or houses are seen, and which “ the traveller 
will call downs, prairies, or pampas, as he happens to come from England, 
the West, or Buenos Ayres.” 


8. Boston to Providence and New York. 

Express-trains leave four times daily, reaching New York in 6 to 7 hours. 

Stations. — Boston to Roxbury, 2 M. ; Jamaica Plain, 3^ ; Hyde Park, 7£; 
Readville, (Dedham, 9}) ; Canton, 14 ; Sharon, 17£ ; E. Foxborough, 2H ; Mans¬ 
field, 24 ; W. Mansfield, 26 ; Attleborough, 31 ; Dodgeville, 32 ; Hebronville ; 
Pawtucket, 39 ; Providence, 43£. Auburn, 49 ; 

Hill’s Grove, 51£ ; Apponaug, 52£ ; Greenwich, 56£ ; Wickford Junction, 67£ ; 
Slocum’s, 71 ; Kingston, 74 ; Carolina, 80; Wood-River Junction, 83 ; Niantic, 
87 ; Westerly, 88 ; Stonington, 94 ; Mystic. 98 ; W. Mystic, 99 ; Noank, 103 : 
Groton ; New London, 106. Shore Line, N. N. H dB II. R. II. Boston to New 

London, 106 M. ; Waterford, 110 ; E. Lyme, 114 ; S. Lyme, 118 ; Black Hall, 121 ; 

Lyme, 123: Saybrook, 124^; Westbrook, 128; Clinton, 133 ; Madison, 136; East 
River, 138J ; Guilford, 140J ; Stony Creek, 145; Branford, 14S ; East Haven, 
152; Fairhaven, 154i ; New Haven, 15C£. N. Y ., A 7 . II. & II. R. R. Boston to 
New Haven, 150J M. ; W. Haven, 150 ; Milford, 167 ; Naugatuck Junction, 170; 
Stratford, 171 ; Bridgeport, 175 ; Fairfield, 180: Southport, 181 : Westport, 186 ; 

S. Norwalk, 189 ; Darien, 192 ; Noroton, 194 ; Stamford, 197 ; Cos Cob, 200 ; 

Greenwich, 202 ; Port Chester, 204 ; Rye, 206 : Harrison, 208 ; Mainaroneck, 210 ; 
Larch Manor, 212 ; New Rochelle, 214 ; Pelhamville, 215 ; Mount Vernon, 217 ; 
Williams Bridge, 220 ; New York, 231. 

The train leaves the splendid terminal station in Boston (on Columbus 
Ave., near the Common), and traverses the made land S. W. of the city, 
between Columbus and Huntington Aves. At Roxbury station it crosses 
Treniont St., and then passes Boylston and Jamaica Plain (see Route 2). 
As the train approaches Boylston station, the quaint buildings of the 
Massachusetts Infant Asylum are seen on the r. Beyond the stations for 
Forest-Hills and Mt.-Hope Cemeteries is Hydi Park ( Everett House and 
Willard House, used also as summer-resorts), a large suburban village, 
many of whose citizens are engaged in business in Boston. This town 
was incorporated in 1868, and has 11,000 inhabitants, 6 churches, a paper, 
a library, and several factories. Readoille is 1^ M. S., and was occupied 
by great encampments of State troops during the war for the Union. 
The roads from Hyde Park and Readville to the E. over Fairmount and 
the Blue Hills are full of interest, giving beautiful views in all direct ions. 
The hamlet ot Mattapan is 1 M. N. E. of Hyde Park, down the Neponset 
River ; and Milton is 4 -5 M. E., over the hills. At Readville the pres- 




CANTON. 


Route 8. 62 a. 


ent route meets its Dedham Branch, and the New York & New-England 
R. R. (See also page 37.) 

Dedham ( Norfolk House), the quiet and antiquated capital of Norfolk 
County, is reached by two branch railroads from the main line, one 
diverging at Forest Hills and running 5 M. through W. Roxbury, the 
other leaving at Readville, and running W. N. \Y. 1^ M. The town has 
7,200 inhabitnts, 10 churches, 2 papers, a bank, a library, a soldiers’monu¬ 
ment (for 47 dead), a handsome Memorial Hall, and a granite court-house. 
The streets are pleasant and well-shaded, and many Boston merchants 
have homes here. The elm-trees completely overarch the streets for long 
distances, and the sidewalks are fringed with arbor-vitae. The Charles 
River curves in close to the village on the N. St. Paul's Church (Epis¬ 
copal) is a handsome Gothic structure of stone, on Church St., and near 
the ancient cemetery. It has a tall stone spire and rich stained win¬ 
dows ; and in its yard is the monument of Alexander Griswold, Bishop 
of the Eastern Diocese. The Court If mse has Doric colonnades at each 
end, and is surmounted by a high dome which rises finely over the trees 
in distant views of the village. In the corner of the enrailed Court- 
House grounds is the ancient Pillar of Liberty, which was set up by the 
Sons of Liberty in 1706. The antiquated Unitarian and Congregational 
Churches are near the Court House. The County Jail is a massive stone 
building, in modern architecture. The Memorial Hall is a graceful stone 
structure, not far from the station. Dedham has many ancient mansions, 
in wide and pleasant grounds, and is by many visitors considered the 
most beautiful village in Eastern Massachusetts. It has a large Catholic 
Church, a handsome station, and the picturesque Oakdale Cemetery. 

Stages run from the trains to W. Dedham, a rural hamlet 3 M. S. W. 
Mill Village is just E. of Dedham, and has sevei'al factories. 

Dedham was settled in 1635, under the name of Contentment, and in 1640 the 
first canal in America was dug here, to increase the navigable facilities of the 
Neponset River by turning into it part of the Charles River. It is 3 M. long, 
falling 60 ft., and is called Mother Brook. The town was fortified and menaced 
during King Philip’s war (1676), and sent troops to the attack on Havana (1740), 
none of whom ever returned. She sent 100 soldiers to the Revolutionary armies, 
and 672 to the Secession War. Fisher Ames was born here in 1758, and was an 
eminent lawyer and orator, and a leader in the Congress of the Confederation era. 

Beyond Readville the main line crosses the N. Y. & New-England 
R. R., and ascends the Neponset valley to Canton ( Tirrell House), 
the chief place in a town of 4,192 inhabitants, with manufactories of 
silk, cotton, fancy woollens, shovels, rubber, axles, machinery, and cop¬ 
per and iron wares. It has 5 churches, a bank, and a high school ; and 
occupies the site of one of the ancient villages of Christian Indians 
established by the Apostle Eliot. To the N. is the picturesque Blue 
Hill, 635 ft. high, overlooking Boston and the bay, and many busy vil¬ 
lages. Ponkapog Pond is near the hills, and covers 200 acres. Not 


G2 b. Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


far from its shore lived Thomas B. Aldrich, the poet. Near the station 
the railroad traverses a massive granite viaduct, GOO ft. long and 63 ft. 
high, near which a branch road diverges to Stoughton, on the Old-Colony 
Railroad. 

The line now enters the highland town of Sharon, which has 1,500 in¬ 
habitants, 5 churches, small factories, and forests which yield much fire¬ 
wood and charcoal. The Massapony-Lake Hotel is a pleasant summer- 
hotel, on a hill 2 M. S. of the station, near the pretty Massapoag Luke , 
which covers 450 acres, and affords boating, bathing, and fishing. Among 
the bold highlands of Sharon, Mouse Hill is most conspicuous, and com¬ 
mands a rich prospect. 

Beyond Sharon the line follows the valley between Bear-Foot Hill (r.) 
and Cow Hill, and reaches E. Foxborough, 2 M. E. of Foxborough Cen¬ 
tre ( Cocasset House). This picturesque town has 3,168 inhabitants, 3 
churches, a park and ornamental cemetery, and a handsome granite 
memorial building in honor of its dead soldiers (used by the public li¬ 
brary). The specialty of Foxborough is straw hats and bonnets, whose 
manufacture engages over 1,600 persons. 

At Mansfield {Mansfield House) the line meets railroads to New Bed¬ 
ford (31 M.) and S. Framingham (21^ M ). This town has 3,500 inhabi¬ 
tants, 7 churches, and several small factories. Most of the people are 
engaged in fanning, on level lands of dubious value. W. Mansfield is a 
pretty hamlet, near Wading River. 

Attleborough ( Park-St . Hotel) is a prosperous village which contains 
nearly 50 manufactories of gold and plated jewelry of all kinds, besides 
3 cotton-mills, and other industries. The town was settled in 1609,#and con¬ 
tains 8,000 inhabitants, 2 banks, a paper, a farmer's hall, and 8 churches. 

Branch railroads run from Attleborough to A T . Attleboroiuih (3 M.)and to Taun¬ 
ton H1 M.), the latter of which crosses Norion, the seat of the Wheaton Female 
Seminary. Stages run to Plainville, S. Attleborough (4 M ) N. Rehoboth ((5 SI.), 
and Rehoboth (11 SI.). Rehoboth is a Hebrew name given oy a Pilgrim pastor to 
the Indian domain of Seconnet. The town is remote from railroads, and has 
1,S00 inhabitants, 320 farms, 0 churches, and 5,000 acres of cedar-swamps. 

A branch railway runs from East Junction to Rumford , the site of Pro¬ 
fessor Horsford’s factories; and India Paint. 

Pawtucket ( Pawtucket House), the second city of Rhode Island, has 
28,000 inhabitants, 22 churches, 4 newspapers, and a public library of 
12,000 volumes. The river is navigable up to its 50 ft. falls, and many 
laden vessels and pleasure-steamers ascend it. Horse-cars run to Provi¬ 
dence. Pawducket has the enormous works of the Dunnell Mfg. Co., 
printing 50,000,000 yards of calico a year; and near by is the Sayles Bleach- 
ery, the largest in the world, employing 1,500 persons! The Conant Thread 
Mills (a branch of J. & C. Coates’) employ 2,000 persons The first 
cotton-mill in America went into operation here, under Samuel Slater's 
direction, in 1700. Pawtucket makes tiles, cardboard, horseshoes, ma¬ 
chinery, yarn, and cotton and worsted dressgoods, in vast quantities. 


PROVIDENCE. 


RouteS. 63 


Providence (* Narragansett House, corner Broad and Dorrance Sts., an 
elegant new house, $2.50-4 a day; * Hotel Dorrance, $2.50-4 a day; 

Central Hotel, 6-10 Canal St., European plan) is the 
second city, in wealth and population, of New England, and a semi¬ 
capital of Rhode Island. It is beautifully situated on hills at the head 
of Narragansett Bay. 

The view of the city from the Bay, or from the heights 
E. of the river, is very pleasing. The China trade was once largely en¬ 
joyed by Providence, but since its loss the energies of the citizens have 
turned to manufactures, and now large jewelry, iron, stove, and locomo¬ 
tive works are kept going. The Corliss engines, the Peabody rifles, the 
Gorham silver-ware, Perry Davis’s Pain-Killer, and millions of cigars are 
made here. 36 banks take care of the money. 

Providence was founded and named by Roger Williams, who was banished from 
Massachusetts in 1636, for his advanced ideas relative to Church and State. He 
was born in Wales, 1599, educated at Pembroke College, Cambridge, and preached 
for some time at Salem, Mass. After his exile he settled at Seekonk, whence he 
was soon warned away by the Governor of Plymouth. In a canoe, with five 
companions, he dropped down the river, until, in passing a cove (near the present 
India St. Bridge), he was hailed by some Indians with the words, “ What cheer, 
Netop? ” (friend). He landed in this cove on the celebrated What Cheer Rock, 
and then coasted around to the mouth of Providence River, where he landed and 
remained. This was in June, 1638. Soon after he visited the Sachem Canonicus (on 
Canonicut Island) and received a grant of the land hereabouts. In 1639 Williams 
became a Baptist, and in 1643-4 went to England, and got a charter for the new 
colony. In King Philip’s War, every house between Stonington and Bridgewater 
(save Providence) was destroyed, and the little colony was once fiercely attacked, 
and lost 30 houses. In the royal census of 1730, Providence had 3,916 inhabitants. 
De Warville visited it in 1788, and reported it “ decayed, and in the silence of 
death.” In 1S00, it had 7,614 inhabitants, and in 1S90, 132,000. 

The R. II. station, fronting on Exchange Place, is a large, handsome 
building, near which is a costly * monument, erected by the State in 
honor of her dead soldiers. The base of this work is of blue Westerly 
granite, bearing the arms of the U. S., and of R. I. Surrounding this 
are four 7-ft. bronze statues representing the Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery, 
and the Navy ; above which is a statue of militant America (10 ft. high), 
bearing a sword and laurel wreath in one hand, and a wreath of immor¬ 
telles in the other. The names of 1,680 R. I. soldiers who died in the War 
for the Union are inscribed on the monument, which was designed by 
Randolph Rogers, of Rome. Near Exchange Place, and parallel to it, is 
Westminster St., the main thoroughfare of the city. From this street to 
Weybosset St. runs the Arcade, a fine granite building (built 182S), on 
the plan of the European “galleries,” containing a great number of shops 
ranged along a glass-roofed promenade. In the vicinity is the massive 
granite building of the Custom House and Post Office. The most notable 
churches are St. Joseph and St. Mary (Roman Catholic), the Union 
Congregational, the Roger Williams Baptist, the ancient First Baptist 
(society founded 1639), Grace Church, and St. Stephen’s (Episcopal), a 


64 Route 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


massive edifice of rugged brown stone, with a deeply recessed chancel, an 
ornate roof, and richly stained windows. There are 80 churches in the 
city. In the S. part, and fronting on the harbor, is the stately building 
of the * R. I. Hospital, surrounded by pleasant grounds. 

On the E. side of Providence River are two long business streets and a 
line of heights covered with residences. On N. Main St., near Presi¬ 
dent, is the quaint old church of the First Baptist Society, and beyond it, 
on the corner of S. Court St., is the small brick building used for the 
State House. Fine views of the “seven hills of Providence” are gained 
from Benefit St. above the State House. On the corner of College and 
Benefit Sts. is the * Athenaeum, a sturdy little granite building, con¬ 
taining a library of 52,000 volumes. Several busts are preserved here, and 
some fine portraits, among which are a copy of Stuart’s Washington ; 
Charles II., by Caspar; J. G. Percival, by Alexander; John Hampden, 
by Gandy• Washington Allston, by Chester Harding; Malbone, by 
Staigg; Sarah Helen Whitman, by Giovanni Thompson ; * portrait of a 
young lady, (his niece ?) reading, by Sir Joshua Reynolds , one of his finest 
works. The gem of the collection is Malbone’s masterpiece, *“The 
Hours,” painted in water-colors on a sheet of ivory 6 inches by 7, and pre¬ 
sented to the Atheiueum in 1853, by 130 subscribers. The picture repre¬ 
sents Eunomia, Dice, and Irene, the Past, Present, and Future. The 
President of the Royal Academy said of it to Monroe, >4 I have seen a pic¬ 
ture, painted by a young man by the name of Malbone, wdiich no man in 
England could excel.” On the heights near the Athenaeum is the line of 
buildings (R I. College, Hope, Manning, and University Halls, etc.), per¬ 
taining to Brown University. There is here a fine library of about 75.000 
volumes, a museum of Natural History containing 10,000 specimens; and 
in the portrait gallery 38 portraits, some of which are of value. Brown 
University has 27 instructors and 270 students (200 from R. I.). It is in a 
highly prosperous condition. In 1889-90 the Ladd Observatory was built, 
on Tin-Top Hill. 

Rhode Island College was founded at Warren in 1764, and removed to Provi¬ 
dence in 1770. Its buildings served as a hospital for the Franco-Anierican army 
during great part of the Revolution. Nicholas Brown, and others of that dis¬ 
tinguished R. I. family, having greatly aided the college, in 1804 its name was 
changed to Brown University. Two thirds of the Boards of Fellows and Trustees 
are required by the charter to be Baptists. 

The hall of the R. I. Historical Society is near the University, and 
contains many relics of the Indians and early settlers, together with 18,000 
books, 30,000 pamphlets, and 7,000 MSS. On Hope St., N. W. of the 
University, are the extensive buildings, surrounded by fine grounds, of the 
Dexter Asylum (for the poor), near which are the ornate buildings of the 
Friends’ Boarding School. The Butler Hospital for the Insane has large 
and stately edifices, surrounded by 115 acres of ornamental grounds, on 
the heights which look down on the widenings of the Seekonk River 


r 


T 



PROVIDENCE. 

1 . 

State House. 

F2 

12 . IVhat Cheer Rock. H4 

2. 

City Halt. 

f 3 

13 . Boston and N. Y. 

3. 

Custom House 

ef 3 

Station. E3 

4. 

State Prison. 

E2 

14. Bristol Station. H5 

5. 

Reform School. 

gh 5 

CHURCHES. 

6. 

R. /. Hospital. 

E6 


7. 

A rcade. 

E 3 

15. First Baptist. F3 

8. 

A thenceum. 

f 3 

16 . Grace {Episcopal). E4 

9 . 

Brown University 

f 3 

17. St. Stephen's „ G3 

10. 

Dexter Asylum. 

G 2 

18 . SS. Peter and Paul. D4 

11. 

Friends' School. 

G2 

19 . Beneficent {Cong.). E4 



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PROVIDENCE. 


Route 8 65 


N. of the Butler Hospital is 
Swan Point Cemetery, a beautiful rural necropolis on undulating ground 
near the river. The Home for Aged Women is in the S. E. part of the 
city. Near the E. end of Power St., on the banks of the river, is the 
What-Cheer Rock, on which Roger Williams first landed. 

The Butler Exchange, near the station, is an imposing 6-storv commer¬ 
cial building. The Court House (corner Benefit and College Sts.) was 
finished in 1877, in Gothic architecture. In a similar style is the High 
School, on Summer St. (built in 1878). The granite City Hall fronts on 
Exchange Place, near the station, and cost over $ 1,000,000. The Library 
of Brown University is in a handsome Venetian-Gothic building; Sayles 
Memorial Hall (built in 1880) is Romanesque, of granite; and Slater Hall 
(built in 1870) is a modern dormitory. The armory of the First Light 
Infantry is a very large building on South Main St.; and the fortress-like 
armory of the Marine Corps of Artillery is on Benefit St. The. Cathedral 
of SS. Peter and Paul, on High St., is a noble Gothic structure, of rough¬ 
faced red Longme&dow stone, with white-marble clustered columns, up¬ 
holding an oaken roof. The Friends’ meeting-house is on N. Alain St. 

Roger Williams lies buried in the North Burving-Ground; and in the 
Park is a noble bronze statue of him, on a granite pedestal 27 ft. high, 
with a bronze figure of History writing his name on the base. On Stamp¬ 
ers Hill is the site of the King’s Garrison fort, erected in 1656, which did 
not save the town from destruction by the Indians twenty years later. 
The Whipple house, on Abbott St., dates from before 1670; the Old City 
Building, in Market Sq., from 1773; the Old State House, from 1762 (it 
contains a portrait of Washington, by Gilbert Stuart). The Public Library, 
on Snow St , has 40,000 volumes. The city gasometer is crowned by the 
largest dome in America (140 ft. in diameter). 

Koger-Williams Park was given to the city by Betsy Williams, great- 
great-granddaughter of Roger Williams, in 1871; and includes 100 acres 
of beautifully diversified land, with the venerable gambrel-roofed house 
of the donor (built in 1775), the What-Cheer Cottage (for refreshments), 
Crystal Lake, and other attractions. 

Broad St., a favorite drive, leads to the Park, and to Pawtuxet (4£ M.), 
passing the popular Park Garden and theatre. Near Cranston are the 
State Prison, and the Pettaconsett Pumping-Station. 


Thoat. res etc Grand Opera House, Westminster St., seats 1,800 ; Music 

H ill 276 Westminster St., seats 2,200 ; Providence Opera Ilcuse, Dorranee St., seats 
1 - 0 ,! . Park Garden ; Sans-Souci Garden. 

Concerts by the Arion Club (160 voices), Liederkranz 

(80 voices), and Mendelssohn Choral Union (200 voices). Art-Club House , a noble 
old colonial building on Thomas St. , , _ . 

Base-Ball Grounds, Messer St (Olneyville horse-cars). Bicycle Club, Custom- 
House St. Board of Trade, Market Sq. Caledonian Society, 142 Westminster 
St. Tennis Club, Brook and Manning Sts. Y. M. O. A ,276 Westminster St 
Horse-Cars to Olneyville, S. Providence, Pawtucket (10 cts.), Central balls 


65 d Route 8. 


NARRAGANSETT BAY. 


the Pink, Pawtuxet (12 cts.), Cranston, Swan-Point Cemetery, &c., the lines cen¬ 
tring at Market Sq. Stages daily to Danielsonville (25 M.). 

Steamboats daily (in Summer) to Block Island, Mount Hope, &c. Several 
times daily to Kocky Point, Newport, Bullock’s Point. Riverside, -'diver Spring, Ac. 

Railroads.— From Union Depot, for Boston, New York, &c. From India-St. 
station, for Warren and Bristol. From Gaspee-St. station for Pascoag. 

Steamboats leave Providence daily for Tiverton, Tiverton Four Corners, and 
Sakonnet Poinr, sometimes touching at Bristol, and connecting at Tiverton with 
certain trains from Boston and Fall River. Providence to Sakonnet Point and 
return, SI. Tile Sakonnet (#10 to $15 a week) is a modern sea-viewing sum- 
mershotel at Sakonnet Point, 1 M. from the Bathing Beach, 5 M. from Westport 
Harbor, and 14 M<. from Tiverton and Stone Bridge. 

St&amboats leave Providence several times daily for the Bay resorts, Newport, 
and Block Island. Providence to Rocky Point and back, 40 cts. ; to Newport and 
back, 75cts.; Newport to Rockv Point and back, 40 cts.; Providence to Conanicut 
Park, 40cts. ; to Newport, 50 cts.; 7 boats daily to Rocky Point; 4 to Newport. 

Running down from Providence, the boat passes Sassafras Point on the 
W., with its lighthouse; Field’s Point (E ), crowned by the old Fort In¬ 
dependence; Squantum Bluff, Ocean Cottage (E), and Silver Spring, 
with famous clam-bake pavilion, many summer-cottages 

and diversified scenery. Off-shore are the Pomham Rocks, named for a 
brave Narragansett sachem whom the English killed in battle in 1(576, and 
bearing a sturdy lighthouse. Cedar Grace (E. shore), 5 M. from Provi¬ 
dence, has an array of cottages, and summer amusements; and close beside 
it is the great Riverside Hotel , accommodating 200 guests. Farther down, 
is Camp White (house and cottages). Across the bay stands Pawtuxet, a 
quiet and lovely village, in front of which, on Fort Hill, near the site of 
a Revolutionary battery, is a group of pretty villas. Farther down, on 
the E., is Bullock's Point ( What-Cheer House), and on the W. is Gaspee 
Point, off which the British sloop-of-war Gaspee grounded, while pursuing 
an American vessel, in 1772, and was surprised, captured, and burnt the 
following night, by eight boat-loads of Providence men. S. of the point 
flows Turtle Cove, below which are Mark Rock, anciently known as “ The 
Natchez of Rhode Island,” and Conimicut Point, with its tall lighthouse. 

Nayatt Point now opens, on the E., with its 

quiet villas and emparked grounds, once owned by Massasoit, and later 
by Miles Standish. On ltumstick Point stands a lighthouse. 

Beyond Nayatt the bay opens to treble its former width, and the steamer, 
passing on the \V. the River-View House (75 guests) and Long-Meadow 
House (100 guests), lands at Rocky Point, a rocky and wooded promon¬ 
tory midway between Providence and Newport, and crowned by a colossal 
dining-hall, famous for clam-bakes, with attendant arbors, menagerie, 
bowling-alleys, observatory, &c. ($8-15 a week). 1 M. below stands the 
spacious Warwick-Neck House, with a noble water-view ; and farther W. 
are the Buttonwoods and Oakland Beach (see page 67). Farther down 
the bay is Prudence Island, the Indian Chibacuwese , 6 M. long, and con¬ 
taining many fine farms. Near Prudence are Patience, Hope, and De¬ 
spair Islands. On one side (off Bristol) is Hog Island, where the early 
settlers kept their swine, out of the reach of wolves and bears. Farther 
down is Conanicut (Bay-View House, $12 15). an island 8 M. long, bought 


BLOCK ISLAND. 


Route S. 65 b 


from the Indians in 1055, and i \ 1078 named in honor of King James, 
Jamestown, which name it still retains. On its N. part is Conanicut Park, 
covering 500 acres, with avenues, sea views, ihe Captain-Kidd house (200 
years old), and many summer-cottages. At its S. end is Beaver-Tail 
Light, the oldest in America (dating from 1067), near the ruins of an old 
British fort. On the E., near Newport, stands Fort Dumpling , a pictu¬ 
resque ruin nearly a century old. Beautiful views are afforded from the 
adjacent rounded and rocky hills, over the sea and across to Newport; 
and here are the costly villas of Win. T. Richards, Chas. Wharton, and 
other Philadelphia patricians. The steamer runs between Conanicut and 
Rhode Island, and passes under Port Adams into the harbor of Newport 
(see page 40). 

Block Island. 

Hotels. — Ocean View Hotel , 500 guests, $8 50 to $7 a day, $12 to $35 a week, 
piazzas j M. long, hot sea-baths, theatre and orchestra, connected cotta.es and 
livery-stable; Sirring House ($2 50) and Hygeia ($1.50), $12 to $18: National, 
Manisses (200 guests), Eureka, Mitchell, Highland, $8 to $15 a week; Connecticut, 
Block-Island, Central, Bellevue, Seaside, Nurragansett, Neptune, New Ailrian, 
Norwich, Pequot, Surf Cottage, Windsor, and other houses, at $7 to $12 a week. 

Steamboats leave Providence at 9 every summer morning, reaching Block 
Island at 3 p. m. The boat touches at Newport at 10.45, where it may be caught 
by the morning Old-Colony train from Boston. The Block Island leaves Norwich 
at 8 A.M., New London at 9.30, and Watch Hill at 11, and reaches Block Island at 
12.30 p. m. She returns at 2.30, arriving at Watch Hill at 4 p. M., and New Loudon 
at 5 30. Another steamer leaves Newport about noon, daily. 

Distances. — To Beacon Hill, 2i M. ; Pilot Hill, l.\ ; Salt Lake, 11; Black Rock, 
5 ; Dickeus Point, 5 ; the Cliffs, 2} ; Old Harbor Point, 1; Sachem’s Pond, 4.L 

Block Island (see page 71) lies 15 M. out at sea, off the mouth of Xarra- 
gansett Bay, midway between Point Judith and Montauk Point. Its brac¬ 
ing ozonized air, grand ocean-views, singular and attractive scenery, and 
primitive tranquillity have sufficed to make here one of the chief Ameri¬ 
can summer-resorts. The thermometer rarely rises above 75° in this 
“Bermuda of the North.” There is good bathing, in water less cold than 
on the more northerly beaches. Among the fish found in the adjacent 
waters are sea-trout, bluefish, black-bass, cod, and sword-fish. Edward 
Everett Hale characterized the place as our future Isle of Wight. 

Tourists visit the old burying-ground, the peat-bogs, the life-saving 
stations, the lighthouses, the windmills, the government breakwater, and 
the high bluffs and cliffs which rebuff the waves. The Great Salt Pond 
covers an area of 1,000 acres. 

The views from Beacon Hill (an almost complete circle of sea), Pilot 
Hill, Mohegan Bluffs. Bush Hill, and many other points, are full of 
grandeur. The island is traversed bv several roads, giving attractive 
drives. Persons in search of rest, and a peculiarly equable and tonic 
climate, and not desirous of excitement, find this locality beneficial. 

Peat is largely used here for fuel. The sea-weed thrown on the island is 
worth $ 20,000 a year. 90 per cent of the inhabitant's were born on the 
island, of native Block-Islanders. They are all Baptists. The little stone¬ 
walled farms, the rolling hills, and the lily-strewn ponds give interest to the 


GG RouteS. 


WARREN. — BRISTOL. 


drives; while near the harbor are modern restaurants, shops, and a large 
skating-rink. Several of the islanders take summer-boarders, charging 
$6 - 10 a week. The adjacent waters are the scene of Ii. H. Dana’s poem, 
“The Buccaneer,” and of Whittier’s poem, “The Palatine.” Many visi¬ 
tors from the Southern and Western States make Block Island their sum¬ 
mer home; and statesmen, diplomats, society-leaders, and other prominent 
persons are found here every season. 

Providence to Warren and Bristol. 

The Providence, Warren, and Bristol R. R. leaves its station at Fox 
Point, crosses the Seekonk River, and passes the popular resorts on the E. 
shore. Stations, India Point, Boston Switch, Vue de l’Eau, Drownville, 
Nayatt, Barrington and Warren. The latter town (Cole’s Hotel, estab¬ 
lished in 1762) is a busy manufacturing place on the E. shore of Narra- 
gansett Bay. It is a nursery of sailors, and has a well-protected harbor. 
The Sachem Massasoit had his favorite dwelling here on his territory of 
Sowamset, near a spring which is still called after his name. The Warren 
Veteran Artillery has two cannon which were made at Strasbourg in 1760, 
taken from the French at Montreal, surrendered with Burgoyne at Sara¬ 
toga, and used in the Dorr Rebellion (1842). A railroad runs from 
Warren to Fall River. 

The next station, 4 M. S. of Warren, is Bristol ( Bristol Hotel), This 
town is a pleasant summer-resort, and is built on a high peninsula sloping 
to a deep, safe harbor. Three wide, grassy streets run down the penin¬ 
sula,— Water St., near the harbor ; Main St., with St. Michael’s (Epis.) 
Church, and two or three old colonial mansions; and High St., with the 
common, the poor county buildings, and a fine Cong, church, in rambling 
mediaeval architecture. From this broad and quiet street may be seen 
Mount Hope, where was “King Philip’s seat” (Arnold), or “Philip’s 
sty at Mount Hope ” (Palfrey). 

King Philip, or Metacomet, was the son of Massasoit, and chief of the Wam- 
panoags. After enduring various aggressions from his white neighbors, in 1671, 
the Plymouth people demanded that all the Indians should give up their arms, 
and Philip demurred at this. Then, travelling throughout New England, he 
formed a powerful anti-English league, and attacked the colonies in 1675. After a 
long war conducted with unexampled ferocity by both combatants, his power 
was broken by the Narragansett Fort Fight, and the repulse from Taunton. 
Having decimated the colonists and destroyed many of their fairest towns, 
he was hunted down and shot near the foot of Mount Hope, in midsummer, 
1676. During the war 600 colonists were killed, and 12 towns were destroyed. 

In 1680 the peninsula was bought from the Government by a company of Bos¬ 
ton capitalists, who divided it into lots, and sold the land to actual settlers. In 
Oct., 1775, three British frigates bombarded Bristol, and in 1778 a raiding party 
of British soldiers plundered this town and Warren. 

Fine yachts are made at Bristol, also cotton goods, while 

an immense rubber manufactory does a business of $ 2 , 000,000 a year. 

Papasquash Neck, between Bristol Harbor and Narragansett Bay, has manv 
pleasant rural villas. Gen Burnside's home, Edgehill farm, was near Bristol, which 
has a handsome Burnside Memoiial Bunding. The Rogers Free Library has a fine 
building. The Uerreshoff Manufacturing Co. (of Bristol) make the fastest of 3 achts. 


WARWICK.— W1CKF0KD. 


Route 8. G / 


The train for New York runs from Providence by Elmwood, the seat of 
the Gorham Mfg. Co.; Royer-Williams Park; and Auburn, the seat of 
rtie Corliss Safe Works. Thence the Pawtuxet-Valley Branch runs W. to 
Phenix and Hope*; and another branch follows Narragansett Bay bv Coni- 
micut, Shawomet, Kockv Point, and Warwick to Oakland Beach and the 
Buttonwoods (see below). 

Beyond Hill's Grove and the quaint bay-side hamlet of Apponauy (At¬ 
wood House), the Shore-line train reaches E. Greenwich ( Updike House), 
founded in 1641 as a trading-post on the Pequot path, afterwards a mari¬ 
time port, and now chiefly known for its great Methodist seminary. It 
looks out over a tine bay, which is famous for its scallops and quahaugs, 
oysters, and fish. 

Old Warwick; is a few miles distant, across Cowesit Bay. Samuel Gorton, 
a layman who intruded into the arena of theological polemics, was banished 
from Plymouth in 1637, from Newport in 1641, from Providence in 1642, from 
Cranston later in the same year, and then settled on Shawomet. In 1643, 40 
soldiers from Boston came here, and took Gorton and 10 colonists to Boston, 
where they were tried and sentenced as “ damnable heretics,” and banished 
from America. The Earl of Warwick sent him back to Shawomet (which he 
named Warwick), and under that nobleman’s protection he spent the remainder 
of his life in launching anathematic treatises at Massachusetts and R. I., among 
which were “Simplicities Defence against Seven-Headed Policy,” “Antidote 
against Pharasaic Teachers,” &c. In 1652, the clerk of this unfortunate settle¬ 
ment was disfranchised on seven charges: first, for calling the officers of the 
town rogues and thieves ; second, for calling all the town rogues and thieves; 
third, for threatening to kill all the mares in town. In 1676, the place was at¬ 
tacked and burnt. 

Nathaniel Greene was born at Warwick, in 1742. He led the R. I. brigade to 
Cambridge in 1775, commanded the left wing, and took the guns at Trenton, 
saved the army at the Battle of the Brandywine, and led a brigade at German¬ 
town, Monmouth, and Newport. In 1780, he commanded the shattered Army of 
the South in its celebrated retreat across South and North Carolina into Virginia, 
and fought the drawn battle at Guilford C. H. In April, 1781, he was badly de¬ 
feated by Lord Rawdon, at Hobkirk’s Hill, and was repulsed from Fort 96, but 
in September he won the sanguinary and decisive battle of Eutaw Springs, which 
ruined the British hopes in the South. Congress presented him with a medal, a 
British standard, and two captured cannon, and the State of Georgia gave him a 
line plantation near Savannah, where he resided until his death. 

Gens. Greene and Casey, of the Army of the Potomac, were born near here. 

Oakland Beach (hotel for 100 guests; famous for clam-bakes) is a modern 
summer-resort on Horse Neck, Greenwich Bay, reached by railroad from Warwick, 
or from Providence (open cars, % hour; 40 cts. both ways). The R. I. militia en- 
c imp here one week each summer The Buttonwoods, W. of Oakland, has 
a fine beach, 1 M. long, boating, bathing, fishing, fifty cottages, and a large hotel. 
Potowomot Neck, across the bay, is a delightful region of farms and summer- 
villas. The Warwick-Neck House (100 guests) is 1 M. from Rocky Point. 

The Cedars (John Allen’s summer boarding-house) is on Quidnesset Neck, 
In shore from Hope Island . 

A branch railway runs 3 M. K. from 1 Mckford Junction to Wick ford (' oUl. 
Spring Housed, a quaint old village, whence steamers run to Newport (16 M0, 
4 times daily. Here is a curious square Episcopal Church, built in 1707 ; the old 
Block House, built for a defence, in 1641 ; the Devil's Rocks, imprinted bv Satanic 
feet; and the Rolling Rock, where Cauonicus and Roger Williams signed their com¬ 
pact. Wickford is on Coweset Bay. , , 

From Kingston sfaition scnii-d&ily stzigcs run 2 M. Iv to tho hill vilingo of Iviitc* 
Bton (Kingston House), the shire-town of Washington County. The Narragan- 
sett Pier Railroad runs from Kingston station 9 M. S E , by Rockv Brook, 
Peace Dale, and Wakefield stations, to the fashionable seaside-resort of Narru- 
gan sett Pier. 


C 8 Route 8. 


NARRAGANSETT PIER. 


Hotels. — The Gladstone, 400 guests, $4 to SO a day ; the Rockingham, S25 
to S35 a week ; the Herwi» k : the Mathewson, <S3 to S4 50 a day ; Atlantic House, 
175 guests ; Continental, 200 guests : Hotel Columbus, S20 to $30 a week; At¬ 
wood House; Massasoit : Metatoxet House, 250 guests, $15 to $21 a week ; Ocean 
House; Revere House: Mount-Hope House, etc. The Tower-Hill House charges 
$3 a day, $12 to $18 a week (get off at Tower-Hill statiou). 

Music, Lectures, etc., in Canonchet Hall Handsome Episcopal church of 
stone. Narrau:an«ett Pier P. O receives two mails daily. Steamers leave daily 
for Newport (10 M.) and Providence. Railroad to Kingston. 5 trains each way. 
Beautiful Casino, with daucing, billiard, dining, and reception-rooms. 

In 1856, a family from Philadelphia came here, and boarded at a farm¬ 
house near the beach. The next year they returned with some friends, 
and the farm was called the Narragansett Boarding-House. Summer 
visitors increased, until in 1867, the Atlantic (SO guests), the Atwood (175 
guests), and the Revere (50 guests) Houses were built. Other hotels 
were rapidly built, and in 1871, the Continental, Maxson, Mt. Hope, 
and Tower Hill Houses were finished. 

The Beach affords fine riding and bathing (light surf), and many fish 
are caught from the rocks. Narragansett is more quiet and unassuming 
than Newport. Below the Pier is a mass of rocks, beyond which stretches 
the long line of Wolcott’s Beach. Indian Rock and Castle Rock are much 
visited; also Willow Dell, White Lake, and Little Comfort Beach. The 
famous mansion of the Sprague family is near the hotels. Every visitor 
should go to Narragansett Heights (3 M.), where the palatial Tower-Hill 
Hotel stands on its 800-acre plateau, near Silver Lake, 125 ft. above the 
Bay. The * view' is fine, extending over Newport and 10-12 villages, and 
covering a horizon-line of 100 M. The Ocean, the Bay, Point Judith, and 
the lakes of S. Kingstown, are all visible. 4-6 M. W. of the Pier is 
Peacedale, with a fine stone church, and a large manufactory of woollen 
shawls. 

The road running S. W. from Peacedale, through Wakefield, passes the remains 
of the old Potter Palace, and the birthplace of Commodore Perry. 

John Potter was a magnate of the middle of the 18th century, who built here 
In Narragansett a fine mansion, richly frescoed throughout, surrounded by gar¬ 
dens, and kept by 100 slaves, where he used to receive company in baronial 
style. 

At and before this time large Quaker settlements were scattered through thp 
district, and three of their deserted churches still remain in this town. 

Oliver Hazard Perry was born in 1785, of an old aristocratic family of Narra¬ 
gansett. He served as a midshipman in the Tripolitan War, and was put in com¬ 
mand of the squadron on Lake Erie, at whose head, Sept. 10, 1813, he won a bril¬ 
liant victory, and captured the entire British fleet. He died of yellow fever, at 
Trinidad, in 1819. His brother, Commodore M. C. Perry, born at Newport, 1794, 
was an active naval officer, chiefly distinguished for leading the Japan expedition 
in 1852-4, when he concluded an important treaty with that empire. 

Commodore Perry’s cousin, Stephen Champlin, Commodore in the U. S. Navy, 
was born here in 1789. He fired the first and last shots at the battle of Lake 
Erie, where he commanded the “ Scorpion,” in Perry’s squadron. His services in 
the War of 1S12 were important. 

G. C. Stuart, the celebrated portrait-painter, was born in this town in 1754. 
Most of the tijne from 1772 to 17913 he spent in London and Paris, and kept his 
studio at Boston, 180*5 -28. His portraits of Washington and other founders of 
the Republic are the best in existence, and show skill of the highest order. 


NARRAGANSETT FORT. 


Route 8, G9 


Wanomachin was the Indian sachem of this region. 5 M. from the Pier, by a 
nobte sea-side road, and beyond the fish-abounding Point-,Tudith Pond, is Point 
Judith, named for Judith, wife of John Hull, who bought this land from the 
Indians in 1659. In 1777, II. M. S. Syren , 28, was wrecked here, and her crew 
became prisoners. Point Judith is the site of an important lighthouse. 

The legend runs, that far back in the colonial days, a storm-tossed vessel was 
driven in towards the Narragansett shore. The captain, an ancient mariner, was 
at the wheel, watchful amid the perils of an unknown coast, when his bright¬ 
eyed daughter, Judith, called out to him, “ Land, father ! I see the land ! ” His 
dim eyes could not discern the distant shore, and he shouted, “Where away? 
Point, Judith, point!” She did point, and he changed his course, and left the 
surf-whitened cape far away under lee ; and when he reached port, the story of 
the fearless girl pointing out the danger from the storm-swept deck was told often 
and again among the sailors, so that the old sea-captains, when they passed this 
cape thereafter, repeated the story, and gave her name to the place. 

During much of the year 1778, the Count D’Estaing’s fleet of 16 vessels, with 
933 cannon, was stretched across the Bay from Point Judith, and maintained an 
efficient blockade of the British forces at Newport. Admiral Lord Howe attacked 
D’Estaing with a large squadron, and after an indecisive battle and a severe storm, 
both fleets were forced to leave the Bay and refit. 

This town of S. Kingstown is the largest in the State, covering over 76 
square M. N. W. of Kingston, near the Exeter line, on a high rocky 
hill, are the ruins of the Indian “Queen’s Fort.” Part of the stone-wall 
remains, also a rock-chamber called the Queen’s Bedroom, where many 
arrows have been found. 

On a hill in the great pine and cedar swamp near Worden’s Pond (S. 
W. of Kingston) are the scanty remains of the Narragansett Fort 
(guide necessary, who can sometimes be obtained at the farm-houses on 
the edge of the swamp). 

At the time of the landing of the Pilgrims, the Narragansett Indians, unwasted 
by pestilence, ruled the E. There were 30,000 souls in this nation (Brinley). or 
according to Roger Williams, “12 towns within 20 M., with 5,000 warriors.” 
Gookin (1674) calls them an “active, laborious, and ingenious people,” and they 
were extensively engaged in trade and manufacture, supplying nearly all the New 
England tribes with pipes, pots, and wampum jewelry and coin. Their territory 
stretched from Wickford nearly to Westerly, with its largest villages in the vicin¬ 
ity (favorable for fishing or agriculture) of the great ponds in S. Kingstown. In 
their simple theology they looked forward to some mystic realms in the far S. W., 
where the gods and pure spirits dwelt, while the souls of murderers, thieves, and 
liars are doomed to wander abroad. They fought frequently with the Mohegans 
and Pequots, but lived more peaceably with the Massachusetts, which was the 
name they (living in a flat country) applied to the dwellers at Neponset, Milton, 
and Canton. It is from Massa (many) and Waschoe (mountains), and means the 
people of the many mountains (’lie high blue hills of Milton). Canonicus and 
Miantonomoh ruled irom about 1600 to 1643 ; the former being “a wise and peace¬ 
able prince ” (Roger Williams), and the latter a “ brave and magnanimous chief,” 
who gave lands freely to the R. I. colonists. But the unvarying friendship be¬ 
tween the settlers and this great tribe was ended in 1675, when the fiery eloquence 
and crafty subtlety of King Philip of the Wampanoags induced them to enter 
the anti-English confederation of the New England tribes. The United Colonies 
took prompt action, and assembled 1,000 men under Gen. Winslow, on the verge 
of the tribal territory. Many of the Indians were campaigning with King Philip ; 
many fled to the N. \V. ; and the rest abandoned their villages and took refuge in 
the ancient fortress of the tribe in the swamp near Worden’s Pond. After a long 
march through the snow in Dec., 1675. the colonial troops came in sight of the 
inll, covered with a system of embankments, palisades, and abatis, and defended 
by the flower of the Narragansetts. The Massachusetts men, in the van, dashed 
into the Fort through an enfiladed entrance, and after a furious struggle, being 


70 RouteS. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


unsupported, they were driven out witli heavy loss. The whole force now having 
arrived, a double attack was made ; the troops of Connecticut stormed the gate, 
and, while the attention of the whole Indian garrison was centred on that point, 
the Plymouth companies broke through the abatis and palisades on the other 
side, and attacked them in the rear. A bitter combat ensued, the Indians retir¬ 
ing to their wigwams and repulsing every attack of the colonials, who now held 
the walls. Fire was now applied to the wigwams, and spread rapidly, amid a 
scene of unutterable confusion and carnage. A band of chosen warriors dashed 
forth and cleared a way and covered the retreat of full 3,000 people, after which 
the colonials were left in full possession, having lost 80 men killed and 150 
wounded. 300 warriors were killed, and 000 prisoners taken, of whom most of 
the lighting men were either shot on Boston Common, died on Deer Island, or 
were sold into slavery. The tribe was annihilated. Nearly all the colonial captains 
were shot, and a considerable proportion of the wounded, borne through a road¬ 
less country in midwinter, scores of miles to the settlements, died on the way 
home. 

“The bitter cold, the tarled swamp, the tedious march, the strong fort, the 
numerous and stubborn enemy they contended with lor their God, King, and 
country, be their trophies over death.” — Conn. Legislature on “those dead in 
the Fort Fight in Narragansett.” 

In 10-12 min. after leaving Kingston Station, the train passes through 
the swamp where the battle took place. The next station is Carolina, 
with large woollen mills, 3-4 M. S. of which is a reservation, with church 
and school-house, where lives the scanty remnant of the Narragansett 
tribe. Stations, Wood-River Junction, Niantic, Westerly (about 
6,500 inhabitants). In 1665, a division of the Newport church moved 
to Westerly, and, in 1671, embraced the tenets of the Seventh-Day 
Baptists, so if the traveller chances to be here on Saturday, he will 
find but little business going on, and the church bells ringing. Westerly 
is also noted for its extensive manufactures of flannels and cotton goods; 
and also for quarries of fine granite (800 workmen), for monuments and 
public buildings. Many summer visitors stop at the elegant Dixon House, 
and avail themselves of the steamer which runs semi-daily down the Paw- 
catuck River to 

Watch Hill Point. 

Hotels. — Larkin House. 400 guests, near the lighthouse $20 to $35 a week ; 
Watch-Hill House, 250 guerts, $21 to $28 a week (the earliest hotel here) ; Ocean 
House (2 0), ou a far-viewing hill: AtlHiitie (150); Plimpton (350 guests); and 
Narragansett Houses, each $12 to $18 a week. 

Steamers in summer run from Westerly to Watch Hill twice daily ; from 
Stonington 4-5 times daily ; from New London, daily ; and from Norwich, touch¬ 
ing at New London and Mystic, daily. 

Watch Hill Point, the S. W. extremity of R. I., is a high, bold promon¬ 
tory, from which the sandy Narragansett Beach runs E., while to the W. 
Napatree Beach, a narrow strip of sand, runs out to Sandy Point. From 
the top of the hill a good sea view is obtained, with Block Island to the 
S. E., Fisher’s Island to the S. W., and the town of Stonington close at 
hand in the W. From its fine views, excellent bathing beaches, and quiet 
and unpretentious hotels, this has become a favorite summer resort. 

There are many summer-cottages here. 11 light-houses are visible hence. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 71 


v hapmar 1 House), E. of Watch Hill, has many summer-cot- 
fX®*. , , **:, 1S Quonocontaug, with shore cottages, 2M from Watchaug 

from ’n«n> 4 w' ,s Charlestown Beach ( Ocean House),- stretching 

w?®A ch *° Green Hill. 2-3 M. from Green Ilill is Rocky Point 
( Matunoc Hotel) ami Little-Comfort Beach, nearly to Point Judith. (See page 69 ) 

Stonington ( Ocean House), the next station beyond Westerly, stretches 
its quiet stieets across a narrow rocky point. It was in ancient times 
enriched by a large West-Indies trade, and later by the seal and whale 
fisheries. 


'I he Stonington Bine of first-class steamboats leave New York for Stoning¬ 
ton, at>5 p. M. daily (except Sunday), connecting with trains for Providence, Bos¬ 
ton. Worcester, etc. Steamers also run to Watch Ilill several times daily (25c). 

This district (Pawcatuck) was claimed by Mass, as hers in right of “ joint con¬ 
quest,” after the defeat of the Pequods, but was settled in 1649 Yrom Connecticut. 
In 1801 it became a borough, about which time President Dwight wrote that “ Ston- 
mgton and all its vicinity suffers in religion from the nearness of R. I.” Aug. 9 
1814, the borough was attacked by the Ramilies, 74; the Pactolus, 38 ; °and 
several other British vessels, which bombarded it for three days, throwing 60 tons 
ot iron into it. Four attempts to land were repulsed with grapeshot, with heavy 
loss and the Dispatch, 22, was seriously injured and driven off by a 3-gun battery 
on tiie point. The town was deserted by its people, and 50 soldiers were scattered 
through it to put out the fires. 


8 M. beyond Stonington, after passing Mystic (Hoxie House) and W. 
Mystic (Cordner House) stations, the train reaches Noank (Ashby House), 
off which is Mystic Island (Mystic-Island House, 125 guests, $10 a week), 
a quiet summer-resort, with good boating, bathing and fishing, and fine 
sea-views, including the Connecticut shore and 

Fisher’s Island (several summer boarding-houses, at $8-10 a week), 
reached by semi-daily steamers from New London, 10 M., which was 
granted to Gov. John Winthrop in 1008, and became “the Governour’s 
farme of Fysher’s Island.” It remained in the Winthrop family until 
1808, when Robert R. Fox, a retired merchant of New York, bought the 
island, for a stock farm, remodelling the Old Winthrop mansion, near 
West Harbor, for a manor-house. There are 30 - 40 summer-cottages near 
the shore, favored by cool breezes, good fishing, and singular scener}' 
of sand dunes, emerald meadows, and fresh-water ponds. The island 
belongs to New York, and is 9 M. long, covering 8,000 acres. 

Block Island, named for Adrian Block, the Dutch discoverer, was called by 
the Indians Manisees (the isle of the little god). The natives made the wampum 
for the interior tribes. In 1636, they captured a Boston vessel near the island, and 
killed the crew, shortly after which a Conn, coaster ran down on her, raking the 
decks with musketry. The coaster then towed her to sea, and, having removed her 
sails, let her go. in a fearful storm. Gov. Endicott campaigned on Block Island, 
and destroyed 2 villages. The island sent 60 ft. of wampum to Boston for tribute, 
in 1638, and in 1661 an English settlement was made here, and nearly destroyed by 
a raid from French vessels in 1690. 


72 RouteS. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Near Mystic, on the N., is Pequot Hill, which was attacked May 26tli, 1637, by 
Mason, who had marched from Narragansett with 90 Englishmen, and 460 Mohe- 
gans and .Narragansetts, under the Sachems Uncas aqd Miantonomoh. On 
arriving before the Fort, the Indian allies were alraid to attack, ami drew ott, 
whereupon the colonial soldiers prepared to do the work alone, and knelt down 
in prayer. (The Sachem Wequash, the guide of the forces, was amazed at this 
sight, and when he understood it, he became impressed and converted, and 
preached throughout New England until he sealed his faith by a glorious mar¬ 
tyrdom.) The English now moved steadily to the assault, and, favored by the 
darkness, succeeded in getting inside the palisades, but they were soon over¬ 
whelmed by vastly superior numbers, and fell back, after setting fire to the wig¬ 
wams. “The greatness and violence of the lire, the flashing and roaring of the 
arms, the shrieks and yells of men, women, and children within the Fort, and the 
shoutings of Indians without, just at the dawning of the morning, exhibited a 
grand and awful scene. The Narragansetts, Mohegans, and colonials surrounded 
the hill and shot down the fugitives. 6C0 Pequots were shot or burnt on this 
dreadful morning, which was a death-blow to the tribe. “ It was a fearful sight 
to see them frying in the lire, and the streams of blood quenching the same, and 
horrible was the stink and scent thereof; but the victory seemed a sweet sacri¬ 
fice, and they gave the praise thereof to God.” Cotton Mather. 

A bronze statue of Capt. Mason was erected on Pequot Hill, in 1889. 

4 M. from Pequot Hill (half-way to New London) is Fort Hill, where 
Sassacus, sachem of the Pequots, had his royal fortress. On hearing of 
the attack of Mason, the. chief sent 300 of his best warriors, who caused 
the Indo-colonial forces great loss in their retreat. But meanwhile those 
who had remained in the fort revolted, and Sassacus, with his court and 
chiefs, was forced to flee to the Hudson River, whence they never 
returned, and the tribal organization was blotted out by the colonies, who 
gave for slaves to the friendly tribes those remaining of the dreaded 
Pequots or “ Destroyers.” There is a noble view from Fort Hill (4 M. 
E. of New London) which embraces parts .of 15 towns, 4 counties, 3 
States, 20 islands, 7 lighthouses, with New Loudon, Stonington, Fort 
Griswold, and Fisher’s Island Sound. 

Groton is a very hilly township, and has but little good soil (in the 
river valley). In 1832, 40 Pequots were living here on a reservation, and 
still heartily hating the Narragansetts. Silas Deane, an early American 
diplomatist, who died in poverty and sorrow in a strange land, after hav¬ 
ing made successful negotiations with France, etc,, was born at Groton. 

The train crosses the Thames at Winthrup’s Point , on a steel bridge 
which cost $1,500,000, and affords good views of the harbor and of the 
famous racing-course of the Harvard and Yale oarsmen. 

New London (Crocker House , $2.50 to $3.50 a dav), fronts on a fine 
harbor, 3 M. long and 30 ft. deep. It wa3 formerly an important mari¬ 
time port, but is now devoted to manufactures of silk, cotton-gins, etc. 
It has 14,000 inhabitants. The Public Library and the Williams Memo¬ 
rial Institute are handsome Romanesque buildings of pink granite. 

This was formerly known as Pequot Harbor, and was raided successively by 
Mason, Endicott, and Underhill, and was settled by John Winthrop, Jr., in 1645. 
In 1658 the Connecticut Assembly resolved, “Whereas, this court considering 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. R mti 8. 73 


that there hath yet no place in any of the colonies been named in honor of the 
city of London, there being a new place, within this jurisdiction of Connecticut 
settled upon that fair river Mohegan in the Pequot country, being an excellent 
harbor, and a lit and convenient place for future trade, it be ng also the only place 
in these parts which the English possessed by conquest, and that upon a very 
just war, upon that great and warlike people, the Pequots, we, therefore, that we 
might thereby leave to posterity that we memory of that renowned city of Lon¬ 
don, from whence we had our transportation, have thought fit, in honor to that 
famous city, to call the said plantation, New London.” In 169S, the pirate Capt. 
Kidd cruised along these shores, and buried on Gardiner’s Island 75 ounces of 
gold, 633 ounces of silver, and a large lot of precious stones, which were recov¬ 
ered by the Earl of Bellomont, governor at Boston, in 1699. During the Revolu¬ 
tion, the navy of Conn., consisting of 26 vessels, made New London its chief 
port; and here, in 1776, were landed the governor, officers, and plunder from New 
Providence (of the Bahamas), which had been captured by an American fleet. 
Sept. 5, 1781, the renegade raider Benedict Arnold appeared off the town with a 
fleet and a large force of British troops, and having taken Fort Trumbull he 
plundered and burnt New London. At the same time a strong detachment made 
an attack on Fort Griswold (across the river), which was defended by Col. Led- 
yard with 150 militia-men. The sharp fire of the Americans repulsed the first at¬ 
tack, but a bayonet-charge ensued, which carried the enemy into the fort. The 
British commander was killed on the rampart, and the Tory Capt. Bloomfield 
(from New Jersey) took his place. As he shouted, “ Who commands this Fort?” 
Col. Ledyard gave him his sword, saying, “ l did command, sir; but you do 
now.” The infamous renegade ran Ledyard through with his own sword, where¬ 
upon a general massacre ensued, and 76 Americans were killed and 36 wounded 
after the surrender. In storming the Fort the British lost 191 men. 

An excursion should be made to Groton heights, where are the remains 
of old Fort Griswold, near which is a business-like 20-gun battery, in ad¬ 
mirable order, which protects the channel. Within stone’s-throw of the 
fading ramparts of the old Fort is a Monument to the massacred militia, 
— a noble granite shaft, 134 ft. high, and 26 ft. square at the base, on 
which was inscribed, ‘‘Zebulon and Naphthali were a people that jeoparded 
their lives till death in the high places of the Lord.” A marble tablet at 
the base contains the names of the slain, which will be seen to run in 
families; out of 84 names, 9 are Avervs, 6 Perkinses, 4 Allyns, 4 Lesters, 
&c. The ascent of the inside of the monument should be made (key, 10 
c. at small house close to the monument). From the top a * view is 
gained which is '‘charming for the student of nature and yet more charm¬ 
ing for the student of the romance of American history.”— Lossing. To 
the W. is New London, with its spires and terraced streets, its shipping, 
Fort Trumbull’s massive walls, and up the river the widenings of the 
Thames where the U. S. has prepared a Navy Yard. On the E. are the 
stony hills of Groton, with Fort Hill 4 M. away ; and on the S. the mouth 
of the Thames with its lighthouses, hotels, and summer-cottages. The 
long, irregular line of Fisher’s Island (9 M. long), belonging to New York 
and occupied by three farms, is in the S. E. over which the ocean is seen, 
and, if the day is clear, Block Island may be made out with a strong 
glass. Many leagues to the S. E. over the W. end of Fisher’s Island, 
may be seen the white cliff's of Montauk Point. 

A steam-ferry (4 c.) leaves the foot of State St. every 15 min. for Gro- 
4 


7 4 Route S. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


ton. 4 M. E. of the old Fort, Col. Ledyard is buried under a monument 
erected by the State. 

New London is built on a declivity, which is ascended by State St. from 
the R. R. Station to the County Court House, passing on the r. the brown- 
stone City Hall and Post Olfice, and a fine Cong. Church of granite with 
a spire of the same material. Near the Court House is St. James’ Epis¬ 
copal Church, a large brown-stone edifice in whose chancel is buried 
Samuel Seabury, the first Anglican bishop in the Republic. The English 
bishops (in 1784) would not consecrate him, but the olfice was performed 
by 3 bishops of the Scottish Episcopal Church, after which he preached 
at New London for 12 years. On Federal St. in a lofty situation is a 
massive and extensive Cong. Church, near which is an ancient cemetery 
which overlooks the harbor. The lofty towered new school-house on the 
hill, and the spacious Catholic Church on Huntington 

St. are fine buildings. 1 M. N. is Cedar Grove Cemetery. Bank St. is 
the main business avenue of the city. Fort Trumbull is a massive and 
powerful granite fortress with a heavy armament, but built too near the 
city to keep it unscathed. The high points of land in the city command 
beautiful water and landscape views, including the estuary of the Thames, 
the Sound, and the adjacent hilly country. The costly granite wharf of 
the N. L. N. R. R. is said to be the finest in the country ; and the har¬ 
bor is always free from ice. New London is famous for its noble elms, 
antique mansions, and picturesque hill-streets. There are fine villas on the 
Harbor road, and at Goshen , a patrician summer-colony, M. from the 
Pequot House, amid admirable English scenery. Osprey Peach, lamous 
for its clam-bakes, is near the lighthouse. Daily stages, 14 M. to Salem, 
over a picturesque road. The State military camp is at Niantic. 

The Harbor road leads by Fort Trumbull, and through a line of cot¬ 
tages, in 3 - 4 M. to the mouth of the Thames, near which is the * Pequot 
House, a costly and exclusive aristocratic resort, which accommodates 
about 300 guests ($4 a day), with cottages and pleasant drives, and 
beautiful views over the Sound. Steamboats run frequently to the city. 
Across the Thames is the sumptuous new Fort-Griswold House. 

Steamers leave New London several times daily in summer for the Pequot House, 
Osprey Beach, and Fort-Griswold House (10c.). Also, for Lyle's Beach, on Fi.-her’s 
Island 15c.; Watch Hill; Mystic; Westerly, 40 c.; Stonington ; Norwich (25 c ), 
etc. Daily to Block Island (and return, # 1.25). At 4 p. M., Tues , Thurs.. and Sat , 
for Shelter Island, Greenport, Sag Harbor and Manhanset. On Mon., Wed., and 
Kri., at 10 30 a.m., for Niantic, Saybrook. Lyme, Middletown, and Hartford. 
Steamers leave for New York at 10.15 p. M. daily. 

The New Loudon Northern Railroad to Vermont (see page 96). 

Beyond New London, the Shore Line reaches the beautiful Niantic Bay. 
Waterford has the Oswegatchie and Pleasure-Beach Houses; Niantic , 
the Howard House; and Crescent Beach (Niantic P. O.), the Ninigret, 
Maxim, and While-Beach Houses. Good fishing and boating abound 
hereabouts. This territory, from the Thames to the Connecticut, was held 
by the Niantic Indians, who under their sachem, Ninigret (uncle of Mian- 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 


<5 


tonomoh) conquered the Long Island Indians. The colonies declared 
war against Ninigret twice, on absurd pretexts, but he escaped without 
fighting, though his territories were ravaged, and in King Philip’s War 
ke kept his people from attacking the English. Lyme 

is a venerable old hamlet, buried in foliage, 
about 1 M. inland from the station. The main street is 1^ M. long, lined 
with old trees and historic mansions, with two churches and an academy ; 
and Black Hall, the mansion of the patrician Griswolds, is 3 M. distant. 
N. of Old Lyme is a picturesque hill-country, in which is Roger’s Lake, 
2 M. long, with ancient homesteads on the adjacent heights. Lyme was 
first settled in 1664; and Chief Justice Waite was born here, in 1816. 
Beyond Lyme the train crosses the Connecticut River on a long bridge, 
and stops at Saybrook, whence trains on the Conn. Valley R. R. run S. 
to Saybrook Point and the shore. 

On Saybrook Point a fort was built by Plymouth in 1035, and well armed, 
several of the cannon remaining here in 1800. In 1036 Col. Fenwick came here to 
rule the plantation, which was named in honor of Lord Say and Sele, and Lord 
Brook. In 1837 the Pequots ambushed and destroyed a detachment near the 
fort, and attempted to carry the works by assault, but were received with such 
discharges of grapeshot that they gave it up, and, capturing several vessels 
above the Point, put their crews to death with horrible tortures. Lady Fenwick 
died in 1648, and her husband sold the territory to Conn., returned to England, 
and was one of the regicide judges. The fort effectually prevented Dutch vessels 
from ascending to reinforce Hartford, and in 1675 forced Andros’s fleet to l'.e out¬ 
side of the river. Springfield vessels refused to pay the toll demanded at the 
Fort, and appealed to Mass., which put a toll on all Conn, vessels entering Boston 
Harbor, and soon enforced a colonial reciprocity. In 1701 Yale College was 
chartered and located at Saybrook, and remained there 1707 -17, where it held its 
first 15 commencements. It then occupied a one-story building 80 ft. long on the 
peninsula near the Fort. The celebrated Saybrook Platform was drawn up here 
in 1708, because “the churches must have a public profession of faith agreeable 
to which the instruction of the college shall be conducted.” On Good Friday, 
1814, 400 British sailors, in the boats of the “ La Hogue,” 74, took the Fort and 
ascended the river 20 M. destroying 27 vessels. The commander of this raid was 
Sir William E. Parry, afterwards famous for his Arctic voyages. “The steep, 
solitary hill near the river,” on which still stood the remains of the Fort, was cut 
away by the railroad in 1871 - 2, to make embankments with. 


In the cemetery at Saybrook Point is the transplanted monument of 
Lady Fenwick, and lk - 2 M. beyond is the quiet, elm-shaded, and wealthy 
village of Old Saybrook. 

The railroad now runs across a wide cove, and stops at * Fenivick Hall, 
an elegant hotel, accommodating >300 guests ($3 a day; $ 15-25 a week). 

A stony strand leads to Lvnde’s Point on the E. at the mouth of the 
river, with its lighthouse. On the Y/., near Cornfield Point, is a small 
bathing-beach. Several fine cottages are near Fenwick Hall, from which 
the Long Island shore is seen. In seasons cf long adverse winds, a fleet 
cf 200 sail sometimes collects in the mouth of the river. 

Steamers running between Hartford and the river villages and New York, New 
London, and Sag Harbor touch at Saybrook Point. 

The Connecticut Valley R. R. runs from Saybrook Point to Hartford (Route 14). 


7 6 Jlvate 8. 


GUILFORD.— BRANFORD. 


After Saybrook, the Shore Line R. R. passes Westbrook (Westbrook 
Hotel) and Clinton (Bacon House), whence daily stages ran 6 M. N. W. 
to the pretty and secluded village of Killingworth (Stevens House), 
where Asahel Nettleton, the evangelist, was born in 1783. The Indian 
name of this place was Hammonasset, but the settlers changed it to Kenil¬ 
worth, which was registered, by accident, Killingworth. The pastor of 
this parish was chosen first President of Yale College, but as he refused 
to go to Saybrook, the students were obliged to come to him, and so the 
college was practically here, 1701 -7, though holding its commencements 
at Saybrook. Longfellow’s poem, “ The Birds of Killingworth,” will be 
remembered here. Stations, Madison (Hammonasset House), E. River , 
and Guilford. Guilford (Guilford House) was settled by 4 immigrants 
fro pi Kent and Surrey in 1639, on the Indian tract called Menuncatuck. 
They were led by their pastor, Henry Whitefield,“ a man of marvellous 
majesty and sanctity.” The regicides were hidden here for some time. 

In 1781 3 frigates landed a force near the village, but the rapidly 
gathering militia drove them off. During the extermination of the 
Pequots, in 1637, the Mohegan Sachem Uncas pursued a Pequot chief to 
this point, and having shot him on the shore, put his head in the fork of 
an oak-tree, where it stayed many years, and the point is still called 
Sachem’s Head (Sachem’s-Head and Linden-Point Houses). 

Fitz Green Halleck, the versatile poet, was born at Guilford in 1790, and in his 
later years retired here and lived on a handsome pension allowed him by the As- 
tors, of New York. lie died in 1SG7. ' 

W. H. H. Murray, the popular, orator, was born at Guilford in 1840. 

The village is a pretty one, built around an extensive tree-studded and 
enclosed green, on which several churches front. The far-viewing Clap¬ 
board Hill is on the E.; and out in the Sound is Falconer Island, with a 
tall light-house. On the S. is Guilford Point (Guilford-Point House, 
etc.); and across the harbor is the bold and picturesque Sachem’s Head. 

Station, Stony Creek ( Three-Elm House; Brainerd House; Indian- 
Point, House; on Flying Point), a cottage summer- 

resort in a deep and picturesque bay, famed for its large oysters. The 
romantic group of the Thimble Islands lies off-shore here, and inav be 
reached by boat, or by a small steamboat running down daily from Stony 
Creek. On Money Island (Money-Island House) and Pot Island (Pot- 
Island House) and others are scores of cottages; while around and between 
these rocky and wooded islets rowing and sailing are full of pleasant sur¬ 
prises. Money Island was one of Capt. Kidd’s resorts, and it has been dug 
all over. At Pine Orchard are the Weybasset and Pine-Orchard Houses. 

Station, Branford, a pretty village, on land sold by the Sachem 
of Quinnipiac to the English in 1638, he being glad to get an ally against 
the dreaded Mohawks. It was named from Brentford, where Edmund 
Ironside fought the Danes. The shore hereabouts is lined with sum- 



7. Centre Church. C3 

8 . Trinity " C3 

9. State Hospital. B4 

10. Scientific School. C3 

11. City Hall. C3 

1 9 Afu tic Hall. Ca 








































































































BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 77 


mer hotels,—the Montana, Sea View, Totocket, &c. On 

Indian Neck are the Indian Neck and Montowese (200 guests) Houses, 
both about 2 M. from Branford station. At the head of “ the rocky- 
shored and island-sprinkled bay of Branford ” is the large * Branford 
Point House (200 guests), distant 8 M. from New Haven, and near 
by is the favorite Double Beach House (100 guests, $ 3-3.50 a day). 

In 1665, the colonies of Hartford and New Haven were united by royal 
order and the common consent. The people of Branford had steadily 
opposed this union, and when it was consummated, they moved in a soli 1 
body, headed by their pastor, and bearing all their household goods, to 
Newark, N. J., and the site of Branford was silent and deserted for 
years. 

Station, K. Haven , an ancient resort of the Indians (for oysters, &c.), 
and the seat of iron-works in 1655, now has large copper-smelting works. 
The train now passes Saltonstall Lake, crosses the Quinnipiac River, runs 
through Fairhaven, and enters 

New Haven. 

Hotels. * New-IIaven House, corner College and Chapel Sts., opposite the 
College, .f 4-4.50 a day ; * Tontine Hotel, corner Church and Court Sts., a quiet 
old house fronting the Green, S3 a day ; Tremont House, corner of Orange and 
Court Sts. ; Elliott House, 637 Chapel St. 

Carriages. The regular tariff is 50 c. for one passenger for one course in the 
city, or for two passengers 75c. * 

Street-Cars (head-quarters at the foot- of the Green) run to Fairhaven and 
E. Haven, to \V. Chapel St , to VVestville and W. Rock, to E. Hock, and in summer 
to W. Haven and Savin Rock. The longer routes are to Newhallville, Whitney- 
ville, and Cedar Hill, and other pleasant rural suburbs. From Chapel St. to the 
Union Depot. 

Reading-Rooms. In the hotels, and at the Young Men's Institute, Phoenix 
Building, 847 Chapel St. Also, at the Young Men's Christian Association Rooms, 
713 Chapel St. 

Amusements. Popular lectures, theitrical entertainments, concerts, etc., 
are frequently given in the Opera House (accommodating 2,500 persons). 

Railroads. New Haven is on the New York, New Haven and Hartford Rail¬ 
road, and the Air Line (for Middletown), Shore Line (for New London ), and New- 
IIaven and Northampton Divisions of that railway. 

Steamboats. Steamers leave for New York twice daily (morning and even¬ 
ing), making the voyage in 5 hours. Fare $1, dinner and state-rooms extra. 
Steamers run (in summer, 4 times daily ) to the beaches at the mouth of the harbor. 

Stages run from New Haven to Hartford via Durham, to North Branford and 
Deep River, etc. Daily at 2 p. M. for Westville, Woodbridge, and Seymour, also 
to Milford and Mount Carmel. At 8 a. M. daily to Seymour, Oxford, Southbury, 
and Woodbury. To Centreville semi-daily ; to Easthaven 4 times daily ; to N. 
Branford, N Guilford, N. Madison, Tues. and Fri., 8 a. m. ; to Waterbury and 
Naugatuck, Tues.. Thurs., and Sat., 10 a. m. ; to Guilford, Thurs., 8 a. m. ; to S. 
Britain, Wed., 7 a. m. ; to Woodbridge and Ansonia. 


78 Route 8. 


NEW HAVEN. 


John Davenport (of Magdalen College), a powerful parish pastor of London, 
joined the Puritan wing of the Anglican Church, and in 1637 was forced to leave 
England, with many of his people. After nearly a year’s sojourn at Boston, he 
set sail with his people, .and landed at Quinnipiac, the present site of New Haven, 
in April, 1638. His was “ the most opulent colony which came into New Eng¬ 
land,” and they laid out a city with 9 squares for buildings enclosing a large cen¬ 
tral square (the Green), though their houses only occupied then a small space on 
the present George St., between Church and College Sts. The colony was gov¬ 
erned for many years by its 7 most prominent church-members, after a curious 
and impressive sermon by Davenport from the text, “ Wisdom hath builded her 
house ; she hath hewn out her 7 pillars.” One of the chief of these was the 
pure and learned Davenport, who was revered by the Indians as “ so big study 
man.” 

in 163S the 7 pillars bought of the Indians 130 square M. of land for 13 coats, 
and in 1639 the truculent Nepaupuck was tried for murder and beheaded on the 
Green, where his head was long exposed. The trading-posts o New Haven on 
the Delaware River were broken up by the Swedes, and other losses combined 
to discourage the settlers, who resolved to go to Jamaica, and then completed 
negotiations to buy Galloway, in Ireland. The ship which bore their ‘‘commer¬ 
cial estates,” sailed under Capt. Lamberton for Galloway, in Jan., 1647, but never 
was heard from afterwards, save when, as the legend says, the spectre of the ship 
sailed into the harbor in the teeth of a head-wind, and when in full view of the 
anxious people, it slowly melted into thin air, and vanished. The colonists 
remained at New Haven, and in 1665 this plantation was united with that of Con¬ 
necticut (Hartford) on condition that each town should retain the dignity of cap¬ 
ital ; and until 1874 the State had two semi-capitals. In 1755, the “ Conn. Gazette ” 
was established here, and became the pioneer of the 8 weekly and semiweekly, 
and the 3 daily papers of New Haven. In Jan., 1761, 7 companies of militia and 
the council convened, and proclaimed George III. King, drinking to him, the 
royal family, and the King of Prussia. In 1775, Benedict Arnold (afterwards so 
famous and infamous) led to Cambridge the Governor’s Guards, the best company 
in the army. At sunrise, July 5th, 1779, 1,500-2,000 Hessians and Tories were 
landed at W. Haven Point, from 48 British vessels. They took the fort and 
town, which they plundered and partially burnt. They were much galled by the 
militia who hovered on their flanks and fought them in the streets. Rev. Dr. 
Napthali Daggett, President of Yale College, was captured by them with fowling- 
piece in hand, and forced to guide their columns. When wellnigh dead from 
mortification, and sore from repeated bayonet-wounds, he was asked, “Will you 
fight again?” The militant divine answered, “I rather believe I shall, if I have 
an opportunity.” He or another pastor of the town was forced to pray for the 
King, which he did as follows: “O Lord, bless thy servant King George, and 
grant him wisdom, for thou knowest, U Lord, he needs it.” Yale College was 
transferred to New Haven in 1717. In 1820 the town had 8,326 inhabitants ; in 
1890,82,000. 

New Haven, “The City of Elms,” the seat of Yale College, is built on 
a flat alluvial plain, at the head of a bay which sets in from Long Island 
Sound. It is a handsome city, of modern appearance, rich in stately elm- 
trees, and surrounded by picturesque hills. The city has $25,000,000 invested 
in manufactures, producing $30,000,000 worth of goods yearly. There 
are 50 carriage-factories, employing 2,000 men; 8 corset-factories, employ¬ 
ing 3,000 persons; the builders’ hardware works of Sargent & Co. l2,000 
men), and others; the Winchester and Marlin Arms Works; the Candee 
Rubber Works, 2,000 men; North harnesses, Shoninger organs, Humiston 
foods, New-IIaven clocks, Hendrvx bird-cages, etc. This third city of 
New England has 66 churches, 5 daily papers, 7 National banks, and 4 
savings-banks. 


NEW HAVEN. 


Route 8. 79 


In the cemetery on Grove St. lie Jehudi Ashmun, agent, fortifier, and defender 
of Liberia; Arthur Tappau. the philanthropist; Harry Crosswell, L>. i) ., dashing 
political editor, 1802-14, and rector of Trinity Church, New Haven, 1815-58 ; N. 
W. Taylor, D. D., a disciple of Edwards and professor of didactic theology in 
Yale, 1823-58; Lyman Beecher, 1). I)., “the most widely known and influential 
preacher in the country, between 1815 and 1851 ” ; Timothy Dwight, D. D., grand¬ 
son of Jonathan Edwards, a distinguished theologian and poet, and President of 
Yale, 1795-1817, who rode horseback through New England and N. Y. and pub¬ 
lished an account of it in 4 volumes, also a system of theology in 5 volumes ; Den¬ 
ison Olmsted, LL. D., professor of natural philosophy and astronomy at Yale, 
1825-59, and a profound astronomer ; C. A. Goodrich. D. D., theologian and 
lexicographer, professor of rhetoric at Yale, 1817-39; Noah Webster, LL. D., 
author and publicist, whose “ Elementary Spelling-Book ” had a sale of 50,000,000 
copies, and who prepared (1807-28) and published a Dictionary of the English 
language which has since been the standard ; Benjamin Silliman, professor of 
chemistry at Yale, 1802-55, one of the foremost scientists of his time ; Jedediah 
Morse, D. D., “ the father of American geography”; S. F. B. Morse (born 1791, 
died 1872), who, in 1844, put in operation the first electric telegraph in the U. S., 
who was covered with honors by European sovereigns and societies, and in 1857, 
was presented with 400,000 francs by a continental assembly at Paris ; Elbridge 
Gerry, Vice-President of the U. S., 1812-16 ; It. S. Skinner, Gov. of Conn., 1844- 
6, and U. S. Senator, 1S47-51 ; David Daggett, sometime Chief Justice, and U. S. 
Senator, 1813-19 ; S. W. S. Dutton, D. D., and Gov. Henry Dutton ; Prof. Mur¬ 
dock and Sidney E. Morse ; James Hillhouse, U. S. Senator, 1794-1810, and James 
A. Hillhouse, the poet of Sachem’s Wood ; Andrew H. Foote, Rear-admiral U. S. 
Navy, born in New Haven, 1806, died 1863. He fought the West India and 
Sumatra pirates, and in 1856 attacked the 4 Barrier-Forts at Canton, China, with 
the “ Portsmouth ” and “Levant.” After a bombardment, at the head of 2S0 
men, he landed and stormed the forts in succession, though they were heavy 
granite works, mounting J76 cannon, and defended by 5,000 men. In 1862 (Feb. - 
April) in a short, sharp campaign at the head of the iron-clad squadron on the 
Tennessee and Mississippi Rivers, he assisted in the reduction of Forts Henry, 
Donelson, and Island No. 10. He was a very religious man, and was accustomed 
to preach to his sailors every Sunday. 

Jonathan Knight, professor of surgery at Yale, 1833-64; James L. Kingsley, 
pro essor of Hebrew, Greek, and Latin, at Yale, 1805-51 ; David Humphreys, 
the aid-de-camp and friend of Washington, and minister to Portugal and Spain, 
1790-1802 ; Theophilus Eaton, Gov. of the New Haven colony, 1638-57 ; Roger 
Sherman, from 1774 to 1793 a member of the Continental Congress, and a signer 
of the Declaration of Independence, who “never said a oolish thing in his life” 
(Jefferson); Theodore Winthrop, the knightly soldier (author of “Cecil Dreeme,” 
“ Canoe and Saddle,” &c.), who was killed at the battle of Great Bethel, June 10, 
1861 ; Ezra Stiles, long President of Yale ; and Eli Whitney, the inventor of the 
cotton-gin. 

Among the broad streets lined with noble elms wnich extend on the N. 
and W. of the Green, the most beautiful is Hillhouse Ave., a broad, 
park-like drive, flanked by line mansions, at the head of which is the man¬ 
sion and domain, “ Sachem’s Wood,” belonging to the Hillhouses. In 
the W. part of the city are the Orphan Asylum and County Prison. But 
the chief interest of New Haven centres in and about the Green. Here, 
on Church St., is the City Hall, one of the most elegant municipal build¬ 
ings in New England, and the Free Public Library. The Green itself is 
a great lawn, studded with line trees, and often used for paiades. The 
United, Centre, and Trinity churches stand in line near the middle of the 
Green (the first two are Cong., and the last is Episcopal), and preserve a 
curiously ancient appearance. Back of the Centre Church is the monu- 


80 Route 8. 


YALE UNIVERSITY. 


inent to the regicide, John Pixwell, a member of a prominent Kentish 
family, a colonel in the Parliamentary army, and a member of the British 
State Council, who fled to New Haven at the Restoration. Near him is 
buried a fellow-judge, Edward Whallev. College Street, with a glorious 
Gothic arch of elm-trees, separates the Green from the grounds of 

Yale University. 

In the year 1700 ten clergymen planned to erect a college in the colony of 
Conn., and to further that end, contributed as many books as they coukl spare, 
for its library. In 1701, it was chartered, and its classes recited at Killingworth 
until 1707, when it removed to Saybrook Point, and in 1717 a final remove (it is 
hoped) was made to New Haven. At an early date the college was named in 
honor of Elihu Yale (born at New Haven in 1048), Gov. of Madras, and afterwards 
Gov. of the East India Company, who gave £400 towards its support. The 
Presidents of Yale : Timothy Dwight, Ezra Stiles, Theodore D. Woolsey (1840 - 71), 
and others, will compare favorably with the corresponding officers of Harvard. 
After the secularization of Harvard University, the Orthodox churchmen rallied 
on Yale. This college has done a noble work of education, and especially in 
shaping and strengthening those minds of Conn, which have been so busy and 
honored throughout the Republic. 

Said De Tocqueville in a Fourth of July dinner at Paris : “ Von day I vas in the 
gallery of the House of Representatives. I held in my hand a map of the Con¬ 
federation. Here vas one leetle yellow spot called Connect-de-coot. I found 
by de Constitution he was entitled to six of his boys to represent him on dat 
floor. But when I make the acquaintance personelle with the member, 1 find 
dat more than tirty (30) of the Representative on dat floor was born in Connect- 
de-coot. And den ven I vas in de gallery of the House of the Senate, 1 find de 
Constitution permit dis State to send two of his boys io represent him in dat 
legislature. But once more, ven I make de acquaintance personelle of the 
Senator, I find nine of the Senator was born in Connect-de-Coot. 

“And now for my grand sentiment—Connect-de-Coot, the leetle yellow spot 
dat make de clock-pedler, the schoolmaster, and the Senator ; de first give you 
time, the second tell you what to do with him, and de third make your la\v and 
civilization.” 

The College became a University in 1887. The Yale grounds cover nine 
acres, near the centre of New Haven, and the University’s property is 
valued at $6,000*000. The quadrangle contains statues of Abraham Pier¬ 
son, the first Rector of the college, and Professor Silliman, one of its most 
illustrious scientists. (The janitor of the University will guide visitors 
about the grounds.) 

The line of college buildings fronting on College Street, includes Osborn 
Hall , a beautiful granite building, for recitations, at the corner of Chapel 
Street; Welch Hall , a brown^tone building, erected in 1891-2; Lawrence 
Hall , a dormitory, built in 1885-6; Farnam Hall, built in 1869-70; and 
Battell Chapel, a cruciform sandstone building, with an ornamental rounded 
apse and tw r o tow 7 ers. Back of this line is a line of the ancient buildings, 
used mainly as dormitories; South Colier/e, built in 1793-4, and the 
Athenceum, back of Osborn Hall; South Middle Collee/e, built in 1751 


YALE UNIVERSITY. 


Route 8. Hi 


with money raised by a lottery and from a French prize-ship captured by 
a Connecticut frigate, and then named Connecticut Hall; the Lyceum; 
North Middle College , built in 1803; the Old Chapel , built in 1824; and 
North College , built in 1822. 

Durfee Hall is a handsome sandstone building, dating from 1870-71, 
and looking across Elm Street to the Divinity School. The High-street 
side of the quadrangle is occupied by Alumni Hall, a turretted red-sand¬ 
stone building devoted to the annual examinations and the Commencement 
meetings of the graduates, and containing Huntington’s portrait of George 
l’eabodv, Smibert’s of Bishop Berkeley, and other interesting paintings. 
Next comes Dwight Hall , a beautiful modern structure for the college Y. 
M. C. A. library and hall, and prayer-meetings. The Library is a noble 
new building, erected by the Hon. S. B. Chittenden (of Brooklyn), with a 
great reading room adorned with Tiffany stained-glass, 500 periodicals, 
and 160,000 books (besides 32,000 in the Linonian and Brothers-in-Unity 
libraries). It is connected with the old Library, of Portland sandstone, in 
Gothic architecture; and in front stands the venerable Treasury building 
and President’s office. Next to the library comes the Art School, erected 
in 1864, of sandstone, and with 170 students. The art-collections may be 
inspected from 1 to 5 in winter, and from 9 to 6 in summer. 

Their chief features are the 122 Jarves pictures of the Italian schools from the 
11th to the 17th centuries ; the 100 paintings of the Ehrich Gallery of Dutch and 
Flemish Art; the 54 Trumbull pictures, American and historic; 50 contempora¬ 
neous paintings : original sketches by old masters ; 150 casts from Greek and Re¬ 
naissance sculptures ; the Williams Chinese porcelains and bronzes ; the Alden 
collection of 16th century Belgian wood-carvings ; and a great number of Braun 
autotypes. 


In the Art School the first gallery contains paintings loaned by 

friends, some of which are by the first American masters. These are often 
withdrawn, and new ones are added. There are landscapes by Gifford , Weir, 
Hennessy, etc. ; and large copies of the Madonna di Foligno the Transfigura¬ 
tion and the Last Communion of St. Jerome; * Autumnal Scene, (nford; 
Ammonoosuc Valley, Weir; Taking the Veil, Weir; and a large number of 
portraits, sketches, &o. by Col. Trumbull. In the second room are many casts 
from antique sculptures ; 130, cast of Jupiter, after Phidias; 131, Ilioneus, after 
Praxiteles; 132, Ruth, Lombardi; 133, Jephthali, Augur; 135, Edwin Booth ; 136, 
Col Trumbull, Ball Hughes; 137-8, busts by Powers; 139, statuette ot Apollo ; 
1 head of Apollo ; 2, vEsculapius ; 3, the River-God of the Cephissus ; 4, Theseus, 
after Phidias; 5, Victory, after Phidias; 6, Kanephora ; 7 - 28, Paiiathenaic pro¬ 
cession from the outer frieze of the cella of the Parthenon ; 29-33 Combat <4pthe 
Greeks’aiul Amazons, from the frieze of the Mausoleum at Caria. In the corridor 
are works of the same class: 1, cast from Eleusis ; 3, 4, 11, Metopes of the 
Theseum ■ 12 13, Combat with Centaurs. In the third room is the famous 

* Jarves collection of early Italian pictures (fine catalogue and “Manual of the 

Study of early Christian Art, ' mr sale by the janitor). Ihe pictures from 1 to 10 
are Byzantine Italian, of the eleventh and twelfth centuries ; 1, an altar-piece, the 
4 * F 


82 Route, 8. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Crucifixion, Deposition, and Entombment ; 2, the Nativity ; 3, a triptych, Ma¬ 
donna and Child and Saints ; 4, 19 small pictures from the history of Christ, in a 
triptych; 5, * a large altar-piece, Christ and the Madonna, with Angels; G, St. 
George killing the Dragon ; 7, an altar-piece in 5 sections, Christ in Hades, &c ; 
8, The Annunciation ; 9, Miraculous Appearance of SS. Mercuriusand Catherine 
(13thcentury); 10, Madonna and Child ; 11, Crucifixion, Giunta da Pisa; 12, altar- 
piece in 7 sections, Margaritone da Arezzo; 13, Madonna and Child, Ciinabue ; 
14, Crucifixion, and Madonna and Child, Duccio da Siena; 17, * Entombment, 
Giotto; 18, Crucifixion, Giotto; 19, Annunciation, Cavalini; 20, Vision of S. Domi¬ 
nic, attributed to Taddeo Gaddi; 21, SS. James, Julian, and the Archangel 
Michael ; 22, the Madonna and Child, &c. ; 23, SS. Augustine and Lucia, Orcagna ; 
24, SS. Dominic and Agnes, Orcagna; 25, S. John the Baptist, Orcagna; 2G, *S. 
Peter, Orcagna; 27, The Trinity and Adoring Saints, Capana; 2S, St. Francis 
receiving the Stigmata, Agnolo Gaddi; 29, The Agony in the Garden ; 30, Legend 
of S. Giovanni Gualberto, Casentino; 31, Madonna and Child, &c., Giottino; 32, The 
Adoration of the Shepherds, Giottino; 33, Crucifixion, Aretino; 34, Vision of 
Constantine, and Fall of Satan, Aretino; 35, The Assumption of the Virgin ; 36, 
SS. Cosmo and Damian, Bicci; 37, the Deposition irom the Cross, Veneziano ; 38, 
The * Triumph of Love (on wood), Gentile da Fabriano ; 39, Madonna and Child, 
Gentile da Fabriano; 40, SS. Zeqobio, Francis of Assisi, Anthony of Padua, Fra 
Angelico da Fiesole; 41, The Madonna adoring the Infant Saviour, Panicale; 42, 
Infancy of S. John the Baptist, Masaccio; 43, 44, Scenes from the iEneid, painted 
on wood, Uccelli; 45, Tournament at Florence, Dello Delli; 46, St. Martin and the 
Beggar, Dello Delli; 47, St. Jerome in Penance, Castagno; 48, The Temptation of 
S. Anthony, Sassctta; 49, Adoration of the Magi, and 50, Coronation of the Virgin, 
Sano di Pietro; 51, S. Catherine of Siena pleading the Cause of the Florentines 
before Gregory VII., Giovanni di Paolo; 52, Martyrdom of a Bishop; 53, St. 
Anthony tormented by Demons ; 54, Hermits exorcising Demons ; 55, Nativity, 
Squarcione; 56, Crucifixion, Mantegna; 57, Madonna and Child, Matteo da Siena; 
60, Penitence of S. Jerome, Fra Filippo Lippi; 61, Madonna, Diamante; 63, An¬ 
nunciation, Gozzoli; *67, Adoration of the Magi, Luca Signorelli; 68, The Princess 
Vitelli, Francia; 70, The Baptism of Christ, Perugino; 73, Portrait of a Lady, 
Ghirlandajo; 74, Madonna and Child, Botticelli; 75, S. Peter, Giovanni Bellini ; 77, 
The Circumcision of Christ, and, 78, Portraits of noble Venetians, Giorgione; 
80, St. Sebastian, and 81, The Dead Christ, Filippino Lippi; 82, Diana and Acta-on, 
and S3, the Three Archangels, Piero di Cosimo; 84, Crucifixion, Lorenzo di Credi; 
86, The Dead Christ held by the Virgin, Fra Bartolomeo; 89, The Madonna sup¬ 
porting the Dead Christ, Bajihael (his earliest known work); 90, Madonna, Lo 
Spagno; 92, Madonna and Child, Andrea del Sarto (badly injured); 94, Christ, 
bearing the Cross, Sodoma; 95, Madonna and Saints, Sodoma; 97, Madonna and 
Saints, Ghirlandajo; 99, Martyrdom of the Theban Legion, and, 100, Portrait of 
Cosmo dei Medici, Pontormo; 104, Portrait of the Princess Vittoria Colonna, 
Sebastiano del Piombo; 106, The Death of Lueretia, Vasari; 107, Portrait of 
Bianca Capello, Bordone; 109, The Crucifixion, Paolo Veronese; 110, Christ in 
Glory, with SS. Peter and Paul, attributed to Veronese; 111, Venal Love, Agostino 
Caracci; 112, Joseph and the Infant Jesus, Guido Beni; 113, Venus, Minerva, and 
Juno disarming Cupid, Guido Beni; 114, Artemisia, Queen of Caria, Domeni- 
chino; 115, * Madonna holding the Crown of Thorns, unknown; 116, Spanish 
Ne®e, Velasquez; 117, Head of the Dead Christ, Albert Diirer; 118, Portrait of the 
Emperor Charles V., Holbein; 119, The Procession to Calvary, Breughel. 

The Sheffield Scientific School was founded in 1847, and endowed in 1830 
by Mr. J. E. Sheffield, who gave upwards of $ 500,000 to it during his life, 
and a still larger sum at his death. It has costly buildings, at the head of 
College St., with 17 professors, 10 lecturers, and 310 students. The main 
building is devoted to engineering; the W. wing to chemistry and metal¬ 
lurgy; and the E. wing to the Museum of Practical Sciences. N. Sheffield 
Hall is near by, and has a large lecture-room, &c. 

The Divinity School (Congregational) was founded in 1822, and has 


YALE COLLEGE. 


Route 8. 82 a. 


6 professors, several lecturers, and about 100 students. The E. and W. 
Divinity Halls are on Elm St., opposite Durfee Hall, and are of brick, 
five stories high, with class-rooms on the lower floors. The pretty little 
Marquand Chapel is attached to E. Divinity Hall. The Lowell-Mason 
musical library is attached to this institution. Courses of lectures are 
delivered before the students every year, on the Lyman-Beecher founda¬ 
tion. The lecturers include some of the foremost divines of America. 
The Law School was founded in 1824, and has 6 professors, 10 lecturers, 
and 110 students. It occupies the third floor of the Court House. The 
Medical School was founded in 1810, and has 25 instructors and 32 stu¬ 
dents. Its lecture-halls, museum, and dissecting-room are on York St., 
near Chapel St. 

The Peabody Museum of Natural History is opposite Alumni Hall, 

at the corner of Elm and High Sts., and was richly endowed by George 
Peabody. But one wing has been completed of what is to be an immense 
and imposing Gothic building. The college collections include one of the 
best mineralogical cabinets in the world, begun by Silliman, and contain¬ 
ing the Perkins, Gibbs, Razamousky, and Count de Bournon collections. 
The proceeds of the annual Yale exploration in the West, American 
archaeology and ethnology, zoology, and other rich cabinets of curiosi¬ 
ties are arranged here. The Museum building is constructed of brick and 
stone, in the most substantial manner, and its halls are adorned with 
stained-glass windows. 

The new Gymnasium (1892), on Elm Street, is one of the finest of the 
University buildings. The Sloane Physical Laboratory and the Kent 
Chemical Laboratory are on Library Street, near the Library. The Seroll- 
and-Key Society has a beautiful building of black and white stone, at the 
corner of College and Wall Sts.; the Delta Kappa Epsilon has a mysterious- 
looking structure on York St., near Library St.; the Psi Upsilon is on 
High St., near College St.; and the Skull-and-Bones Society has a window¬ 
less edifice, like a mausoleum. 

Yale College now contains 180 instructors, and about 1,400 students, of 
whom the academic department has 31 instructors and about 900 students. 
The Annual Commencement (last Wednesday in June) is a great day in 
New Haven, the exercises being conducted mainly in the Centre Church 
and Alumni Hall. 

Among the graduates of Yale were S. F. B. Morse, Eli Whitney, Wm. Cliau- 
venet, Janies D. Dana, Benjamin Silliman ; John C. Calhoun, James Kent, Wm. 
M. Evarts, Jeremiah Mason, T. S. Grimke, Morrison R. Waite, Edwards Pierre- 
pont ; Jonathan Edwards, Nathaniel Emmons, Timothy Dwight, Samuel Hop¬ 
kins, N. W T . Taylor, T. D. Woolsey, Leonard Bacon ; James Hadley, J. D. Whit- 


82 b. Routes. ENVIRONS OF NEW HAVEN. 


ney, Noah Webster, Joseph E. Worcester ; E. C. Stedinan, Theodore Winthrop, 
C. A. Bristed, John Pierpont, J. Fenimore Cooper, J. G. Percival, N. P. Willis, 
Donald G. Mitchell, Horace Bushnell, and Samuel J. Tilden. 

The Church of the Redeemer (Cong.) is a rambling Gothic building at 
the corner of Wall and Orange Sts., diagonally opposite the great struc¬ 
ture occupied by the High School. St. Mary's Church is a large 
Catholic temple, on Hillhouse Ave. At the c )rner of Chapel and Olive 
Sts. is the two-towered Episcopal Church of St. Paul. The New Haven 
Colony Historical Society has a building at the foot of Hillhouse Ave. 
The old railroad-station is now used as a market. The environs of 
the city are rapidly enlarging, and are being laid out in broad avenues, 
lined with villas. The horse-cars out W.-Chapel St. give a good view of 
this section. The city has recently been gaining rapidly in commercial 
importance, by the slow withdrawal of shipping from New York to more 
convenient and less expensive ports. Manufacturing industries have also 
increased in an extraordinary manner, and the future prospects of New 
Haven are very flattering. Wliitneyville is 2 M. from the city (horse- 
cars every 20 min.), and was founded by Eli Whitney, inventor of the 
cotton-gin. The route affords fine views of East Rock and West 
Rock. 

The Union Depot at New Haven cost § 250,000, and is a large 
brick building (with restaurant, etc.) erected on made land fronting on 
the harbor, with Long-Wharf lighthouse on the 1., and City Point on the 
r., and the East-Haven shore across the harbor. 

East Rock and the region around it now form a great public park; 
and on the summit rises a lofty and imposing monument to the local 
soldiery who died in the Secession War. A considerable part of West 
Rock, including the Judges’ Cave, has been acquired and made accessible 
for park purposes; and parks are also being formed on both sides of the 
harbor. 


Environs of New Haven. 

There are pleasant drives to the beaches at Branford and Guilford; and 
down the E. side of the harbor by Fort Hale and Fort Wooster. 4 M. down 
the harbor is the Morris-Cove House ($12 to $15 a week), whence small 
steamboats run to the city in summer. The suburb of Fairhaven is famous 
for its large and delicious oysters. 


ENVIRONS OF NEW HAVEN. 


lloute 8. 83 


Fort Wooster, 1| M. from the city, was built in 
1814, and is now in ruins ; a noble view is gained from the hill on which 
it stands. About 200 yards N. of this Fort was the cemetery of the 
Quinnipiac Indians. 11? - 2 M. from this point is Fort Hale, which was 
greatly strengthened during the war of 18G1 -65, but is now dismantled. 

The East and West Rocks are bold and lofty masses of trap-rock, on 
the plain near the city, which geologists think were driven up through 
other strata by some great throe of the central forces. They form the 
southern limit of the great system of mountains which extends from 
Hereford, in Canada, forming the valley of the Connecticut River, which 
many believe once flowed between these cliffs to the Sound. East Rock 
(carriage-road to the top, horse-cars to the base from the Green) is 
1^-2 M. from the centre of the city, by way of State St. 

An extensive * view is afforded hence, embracing 
the broad valleys and bright waters of Mill and Quinnipiac Rivers, the rural 
districts of North Haven and Hamden, the high hills toward Mount Car¬ 
mel, the frowning cliffs of West Rock, the city of New Haven, its har¬ 
bor, and a long sweep of Long Island Sound. 

*West Rock (horse-cars from Chapel St.) is 2-2| M. N. W. of the 
Green, and rises sharply from the plain to an elevation of over 400 ft. 
The ascent (difficult for ladies) is over a rugged and rocky path beyond 
the quarries. The view from the summit is nearly the same as that from 
the East Rock, except that a great portion of the Quinnipiac valley is 
hidden, the northern mountains are differently grouped, and the western 
towns are unfolded to the view. A hard walk of 15-20 min. to the N. 
over the rugged plateau leads to the Judge's Cave , a small cleft in a 
group of boulders, where the regicides Goffe and Whalley were hidden 
for some time in 1661. A citizen who lived about 1 M. off brought them 
food, until one night a catamount looked in on them and “ blazed his eyes 
in such a frightful manner as greatly to terrify them.” Wintergreen 
Fall is near the upper base of the rock, and above - it is a dam of rock 
and earth 3,500 ft. long, which forms a lake of 75 acres for the water sup¬ 
ply of the city. Near West Rock is Maltby Park, covering 800 acres, 
with 3 M. of driveways, and the city water-works. At the foot of the 
rock is Westville, near which is “ Edgewood,” the rural home of Donald 
G. Mitchell (Ik Marvel), the author of “ Dream Life,” “ Reveries of a 
Bachelor,” and other charming books. 

Savin Rock, 4 M. S. W. of New Haven (horse-cars from the Green 
half-hourly) is the favorite resort of the citizens. The road passes 
through West Haven, a quiet old village, with a tall church on an elm- 
shaded green. Savin Rock is a bluff promontory pushing a rocky front 
against the waves, and stands at the end of a long sandy beach which has 


^4 Route 8. 


NEW HAVEN TO NEW YORK. 


a very light surf. A pretty view of the Sound is gained from the top of 
the bluff. The Sea-View House can accommodate 150 guests. 


New Haven to New York. 

On leaving the railroad-station near the bay, at New Haven, the Shore- 
Line train passes on to the rails of the New-York, New-Haven & Hartford 
Railroad, on which the cars of the Springfield route run, and which is also 
used by the N. Y. & N. E. route. The tirst station is West Haven , 1 AI. 
from Savin Rock. Next comes Milford (Milford Hotel), a pretty village, 
with wide streets lined with arching elms, and with an enclosed green £ 
AI. long, and an interesting memorial bridge (visible from the train). 

The aborigines of Wapowage having been crowded off, this district was settled 
and named, in 1630, by a company from Milford, in England. The occupation 
seems to have been in accordance with a series of resolutions at an early meeting 
of the Milford church. “Voted, That the earth is the Lord’s, and the fulness 
thereof. Voted, That the earth is given to the saints. Voted, That we are the 
saints.” The settlement being menaced in the Indo-Dutch War of 1643-6, it 
was surrounded by a wall and palisade 1 M. around ; and the dreaded Mohawks 
having been repulsed by Connecticut Indians near Milford, the saints possessed 
the earth in peace. On New Year’s Day, 1777, 200 American soldiers, captives 
from the prison-ships at New York, were cast ashore here from British cartel- 
ships, and despite the truly saintly ministrations of the Milfordites, 46 of them 
died in one month. They were buried in the old cemetery (near the station), and 
a monument 30 t. high raised over them, which states the facts, and the names 
of the victims, and asks, “Who shall say that Republics are ungrateful?” 

St. Peter’s (Episcopal) Church is a venerable and ivy-clad stone edifice 
on the green and terraced banks of the tranquil Wepowaug. Two large 
white churches (of wood) stand on the hill beyond. A large amount of 
straw-goods is made in the village. Charles Island is in the Sound neai 
Milford, and is the headquarters of the American Steam Yacht Club. 

Soon after leaving Milford, the line crosses the broad Housatonic River, 
and stops at Stratford , a quiet village with neither hotel nor factory, and 
rich in two or three elm-lined tranquil streets, where one can stroll on 
dreamy autumn afternoons and feel as if in a second era of the Truce of 
God. Such streets are found only in these old towns on Long Island 
Sound. Stratford was settled by Massachusetts men, in 1639, and its 
pastor was Adam Blackman, whom Cotton Alather (who is fond of play¬ 
ing upon words) calls “ a Nazarite purer than snow, and whiter than 
milk. The society which he organized now meets in a new Swiss Gothic 
church near the station. Dr. Samuel Johnson, first President of King’s 
(Columbia) C ollege, and Father of Episcopalianism in Connecticut,” is 
buried near the venerable Christ Church (founded 1723). 

The next station is Bridgeport. 



BRIDGEPORT. 


Route 8. 85 


Bridgeport.—Atlantic Hotel opposite station, .$3 a day. Carriages , 50c. for 
each person, or $1.00 for 3 persons. Bo-'t Office on State, near Main O t tera 
House on Fairfield Ave. Library, corner Main and John, with 20,000 volumes; 
magazines and papers in the reading-room. Street-cars run all over the city. 

This district was owned by the Paugusset Indians, and was occupied soon after 
Mason’s victory in 1637, when he pursued the Pequots in this direction. The in¬ 
nocent Paugussets (with their hundred wigwams) were soon crowded on to a res¬ 
ervation of 80 acres at Golden Hill (so named from its glittering mica), and the 
poor half-dozen who remained in 1765 sold out and left. From the contiguous 
towns of Stratford and Fairfield a new parish was formed, called Stratfield, and from 
this Bridgeport was afterwards organized. Charles Chauncey, the famous Puritan 
Father, was pastor here for 20 years, and while he looked after the adults the 
church “Voted that Nathaniel Wackle should be the man to look after y e boyes a 
Sabbath dayes in time o exercise that they play not.” In 1715, Pastor Cooke of 
New Haven accepted a call here on a salary of “200 1. a year, or provisions at the 
following ra es, viz: Indian at 2s., ry at 2s. 8 d., wheat at 4 s. per bush., porck at 
20 s. percwt., and firewood for the yous of the family.” People were seated in 
the church “by dignity, Adge, and a state.” In 1707, an Episcopalian mission¬ 
ary was sent here from England, wdio, by 1748, had organized a church (the pres¬ 
ent St. John’s Society. 

Bridgeport has 50,000 inhabitants, with 31 churches, 5 newspapers, 
9 banks, 3 academies, an opera-house, and the county buildings. It is fa¬ 
mous for its great factories, among which are the sew r ing-machine works of 
Wheeler & Wilson (1,200 hands), Elias Howe Jr. Machine (1,200 hands), 
and the J. B. Secor Co.; the Sharps’ Rifle Co., the Ornamental Wood Co. 
(pressed goods), the Frary cutlery factory, the Tomlinson Spring and Axle 
Co., the Union Metallic Cartridge Co. (1,500 hands), 6 corset companies 
(2.500 hands), Bridgeport Organ Co. (500 hands), Malleable Iron Co. (500 
hands), Bridgeport Brass Co., tanneries, a carpet-factory, soap-works, &c. 

Fairfield Ave. (horse-cars) runs 

past the Public Library and the stately St. John’s Episcopal Church, 
to the picturesque Mountain-Grove Cemetery (SO acres), where there are 
many fine monuments. I M. beyond are Holland Heights, which over¬ 
look Bridgeport, Fairfield, Black Rock, and the Sound. North Ave. 
(then called the King's Highway) was the centre of the ancient settle¬ 
ment, of which a few gray houses remain. Broad St. is parallel to Main, 
and has a line of neat churches. St. Augustine's Church and Convent 
are imposing stone buildings, with the Cluny-like Wheeler mansion op¬ 
posite, in extensive grounds, and the aristocratic streets of Golden Hill 
extending beyond. Washington Park is in E. Bridgeport, and contains 
a grove of forest-trees. St. Paul’s Church and the pretty Pembroke 
Lake are near it; and antique Stratford and the far-viewing Old-Mill Hill 
are beyond. On the S. of the city (horse-cars on Main St.) is * Sea-Bide 
Park, which has a trotting-course, a grove of venerable trees, a soldiers’ 
monument adorned with statues, and a magnificent esplanade-road, 
which follows the curves of the sea-wall over the beach for nearly 1 M., 
giving broad views over the Sound and on to the Long-Island coast, 20 
M. distant. During the Revolutionary War the 4th Conn, encamped 
here, and the remains of the old fort are still visible. 

Beyond the Park is the summer-resort of Black Rock, the birthplace of Capt. 


8G Route S. 


FAIRFIELD. 


Chamicey, a distinguished naval officer in the war of 1812. Fairfield is just be¬ 
yond, a pleasant 4 M. drive from Bridgeport. Waldeinere is the stately and 
high-towered mansion of P. T. Barnum, fronting the Park, sumptuously fur¬ 
nished, and with spacious ornamental grounds which are open to the people. 

Barnum was born in Conn.. 1810, and began his great career as showman in 
1835 (with Joice lleth). In 1849, he paid Jenny Lind $ 150,000 for singing 150 
nights in America. In 1865, his great museum at New York was destroyed. 
Charles S. Stratton, or Gen. Tom Thumb, was born at Bridgeport in 1832. His 
size and growth were as usual until his seventh month, when he ceased to grow. 
In 1844 Barnum took him to Europe; and his travels were incessant and his reve¬ 
nues large until his death, in 1882. In 1863 he married Miss Laviuia Warren, of 
Middleboro', Mass., a young lady of about the same stature as himself, — to wit, 
28 inches. 

Steamers leave Bridgeport for New York semi-daily ($ 1) ; also for Port Jeffer¬ 
son, L. I., twice daily (fare, $1.00). Stages for Black Rock, Easton, &c. 

Kail roads. The Naugaruck R. R., from Bridgeport to Winsted (62 M.), runs 
N in the valleys of the Ilousatonic and Naugatuck Rivers (Route 16). The 
Housatonic R. R. runs from Bridgeport to Pittsfield, Mass., 110 M. (Route 17). 

The next station is near tranquil old Fairfield (Hotel St. Marc , $2.50 
a day), an ancient village, with a beautiful street lined with villas and 
careful landscape-gardening. On the Green are the Episcopal and Con¬ 
gregational Churches, and the Court House, “built A. D. 1720, destroyed 
by the British A. D. 1779, rebuilt A. D. 17J4, remodelled 1870.” 

July 7, 1779, Tryon with his Hessian Yagers, returning from the pillage of New 
Haven, landed here, sacked the village, and burned 200 houses. The scene in¬ 
spired Col. Humphrey’s Elegy beginning, — 

“ Ye smoking ruins, marks of hostile ire. 

Ye ashes warm which drink the tears that flow, 

Ye desolated plains, my voice inspire, 

And give soft music to my song of woe. 

How pleasant, Fairfield, oh th’ enraptured sight. 

Rose thy tall spires, and ope’d thy sociul halls.” 

Another poet of that day was more pointed in his remarks : — 

“ Tryon achieved the deeds malisn, And smiled to see destruction spread ; 

Tryon, the name for every sin. While Satan, blushing deep, looked on. 

Hell’s blackest fiends the fiame surveyed And Infamy disowned her son.” 

£ M. S. of the Green is the best beach on the Sound, protected 
by a bar from S. winds, with a gradually-sloping sandy shore. Here 
is a Pavilion, with 40 dressing-rooms, reading-room, parlors, etc. Black- 
Rock light is to the E., near the grassy bluff on which stands the 
* Georye Hotel (500 guests ; $12-15 a week). 15 min. walk N. of the 

Green is Round Hill, commanding a wide view of Bridgeport and the 
Sound. Some miles N. are Samp Mortar Rock (a precipice 70 ft. high, 
on whose top is a deep hole where the Indians pounded corn), and Green¬ 
field Hill, where President Dwight was once settled, and where he wrote 
the poem (popular 70 years ago) of “Greenfield Hill.” From this point 
a fine view is gained, embracing, according to the poet, 

“ Norwalk's white ascending spires, skv-encircled Easton's churches, 

Stratford s turrets, Fairfield giving lustre to the day. 

Prince of the waves, and ocean's favorite child, 

There Longa’s Sound all gloriously expands.'’ 

Southport station and village is 2 M. from Fairfield. N. of the railroad 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8 . 87 


and near the station is a cultivated field, which occupies the site of the 
Sasco Swamp, where, in 1637, the Unquowa (Fairfield) Indians and a strong 
band of Pequots took refuge. Mason, with troops of Mass, and Conn, 
surroimded the swamp, and after a parley the Unquowas were allowed 
to come out (being blameless). The Pequots refused all terms, and, after 
an obstinate attack, 70 of them broke the English line and escaped. ISO 
were made prisoners and sold to the West Indies as slaves. Soon after 
these “fair fields’’were occupied by a company from Concord, Mass. 
The next station is Westport. The village is H-2 M. N. of the rail¬ 
road, on the wideniugs of the Saugatuck, and is a lively little place. 
The Memorial Church of the Holy Trinity is a fine Gothic edifice of 
sandstone, alongside of which, and in strong contrast, is a heavy Egyptian 
tomb. 

Station, S. Norv,'a.k ( Mahackemo; Warwick), near which is the 
village of Norwalk (horse-ears to station). The legend says that this 
land, in the purchase (1640) from the Indians, was to extend one day’s 
“north walk ” from the Sound. In 1653, the town was incorporated, 
having then 20 families. July 11, 1779, Tryon’s Hessians plundered and 
burnt the village, meeting with such resistance from 50 Continental 
soldiers and the militia that they lost 148 men. The town includes sev¬ 
eral villages, with the so-called city of S. Nonvalk (3,000 inhabitants) 
and the borough of Norwalk, which has 

6,000 inhabitants, and is 1^ M. from the station. Midway between Nor¬ 
walk and S. Norwalk is the palace which was built by Le Grand Lock- 
wood, at a cost of over §1,000,000, and now pertains to Chas. D. Mat¬ 
thews, of New York. The Norwalk Lock Co. makes 900,000 locks 
yearly, in 300 forms ; the Union Knob Works turn out 1,500,000 knobs 
(of New Jersey clay) yearly ; and there are manufactories of hats and 
shoes, felt, beaver-cloth, cassimeres, shirts, earthenware, engines, etc. 
The oysters of Norwalk are famous. 

The Danbury & Norwalk Railroad (see page 115) ends at Wilson Point, 
whence steamboats semi-daily to New York in 45 minutes; and to Uoton 
Point. Off-shore are the lovely Norwalk Islands, with many cottages. On 
I telle Island are two hotels. Koton Point is a famous excursion-point. 

Stations, Darien (village $ M. S. of the station), Noroton. Noroton is 
1£ M. from Darien, and near the Sound. Upon the Boston Post road at 
Noroton stands the Episcopal Church, connected with which is a mortuary 
chapel, erected by Mr. Benj. Fitch in memory of his mother, who is 
buried in a vault beneath. In the tower is a chime of nine bells, given bv 
Mr. Fitch. Near the Noroton station is situated “The Home,’’ founded 
by the same gentleman. This institution was first established for the edu¬ 
cation and maintenance of soldiers’ children. It is now, by a change in 
the charter, a home for disabled soldiers. A tine gallery pf modern trench 
pictures is attached to the home, and can be visited. It includes many 
choice paintings and works of art, collected by Mr. I itch in Europe. 


88 Route 8, 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 



3 M. beyond Noroton, the train stops at Stamford, ( Stamford 
House, Union House), which was founded in 1641, and thereafter 
sometimes harried by the Dutch from New York. In 1838 it was a dull 
hamlet of 700 inhabitants ; but soon after the Empire City looked with 
favor upon it, and during the last 25 years its hills have been occupied by 
the villas and parks of New York gentlemen. Hence fine churches have 
been built, broad avenues are laid out, and the place now has over 16,000 
inhabitants. St. Andrew’s (Epis.) Church is a little gem of Gothic archi¬ 
tecture, guarding a wide sweep of graves. The Univ. Church, near by, is 
a handsome stone building, while the Catholics have raised a large church, 
on the road from the station. A Town Hall, of brick and Ohio 

stone, 150 ft. front and with a tower 100 ft. high, rises in the centre of 
the village M. from the station). Near it is a small triangular park 
with a fountain. A pleasant drive is that on the New Haven road, passing 
many line villas, among which is Palmer’s stone chateau. 1000 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 8. 89 


N^w-Yorkers come liere during the summer, many of whom stop at Ship- 
pun Point (1^-2 M. from the station), where is the large Ocean House, 
from whose beach a pretty still-water view is afforded. The Hamilton 
House ($10-15 a week) is a favorite summer-resort on Noroton Hill. 

Col. Abraham Davenport, “a man of stern integrity and generous benevo¬ 
lence,” was born at Stamford in 1715, and was for 25 years in the State legisla¬ 
ture. On the memorable Dark Day, May 19th, 1780. great fear fell on the legisla¬ 
ture, then in session ; and in anticipation of the approach of the Day of universal 
J udpnent, an adjournment was moved. The brave old man arose, and thus spoke, 
calming the fears of the legislators, and continuing the session: “Iain against 
an adjournment. The Day of Judgment is either approaching, or it is not. If it 
is not, there is no cause for an adjournment. If it is, I choose to be found doing 
my duty. I wish, therefore, that candles may be brought.” This scene has been 
made the theme of a fine poem by Whittier. Col. Davenport’s sons, Janies and 
John, were officers in the Revolution, and afterwards members of Congress (1796-99; 
1799-1817). His great-grandson was living in Stamford in 1884. 

Steavners leave Stamford for New York daily. A Railroad runs from this point 
to New Canaan, a quiet country town 8 M. to the N. 

Stations, Cos Cob (village N. of the railroad, on the Mianus River), 
and Greenwich. Greenwich was settled in 

1640, and in 1650 was appointed by the Anglo-Dutch frontier commission 
in session at Hartford as the W. limit of Conn. Somewhere in this early 
age, a desperate battle lasting all day was fought on Strickland’s Plain, 
between the Dutch and Indians. The village stands on rolling hills, 
\ M. N. of the station. 15 min. walk to the E. is a stately Cong. 
Church, built of gray rubble, with deep transepts, a wide and picturesque¬ 
ly irregular front, a high pointed roof, and a fine stone spire in open¬ 
work. This line edifice is on a high hill, and may be seen for leagues 
along the Sound, resembling some pilgrimage church on the Seine 
or Danube. Near this is'the exquisite Christ Church (Epis.) in a shel¬ 
tered grove on the ridge, built of gray stone trimmed with Caen stone. 
The * Lenox House (150 guests; $4 a day) is a first-class summer-reso*t 
and winter-hotel on Putnam Hill, £ M. from the station. 

A few rods beyond (to the E.), on the r. of the road, is an old cemetery, wher> 
stood the church in 1779, near which Gen. Putnam, with 60 militia-men, fought 
an advancing force of dragoons until the last moment possible. Then, since to 
go down by the curving road (the present road is modern and more direct) woul L 
expose him to a close tire from many of the enemy, he galloped his horse down 
the steps built in the steep hillside for the church-goers. The British cavalry 
sent a volley after him (one shot piercing his hat), but dared not follow, although 
two or three dragoons of Lafayette’s escort to the place (in 1824) performed the 
feat safely. Putnam lost 2 cannon here, but his men mostly escaped to the adja¬ 
cent swamps, and the next day Old Put attacked Tryon’s rear-guard with a force 
from Stamford, and captured 88 men. 

S. E. of the Greenwich station is Indian Harbor, on a point near which 
| M. from the railroad (stage, 15 cts.), is the elegant * Indian-Harbor 
Hotel (400 guests; $21-35 a week), with gas, running water, an orches¬ 
tra, boating, bathing, iishing, and 80 acres of rich lawns. Pine water- 
views from the hotel. 

Soon after leaving Greenwich, the train crosses the Byram River, and 


DO Route 9. 


NEW BEDFORD. 


leaves Yankee-land, which is said to stretch “from Quoddy Head” (in 
Maine) “to Byram River.” Stations, Port Chester, in Westchester 
County, New York (De Soto House), a busy village with 5 churches, Rye 
(with a tine beach 2 M. S. E. of the station), Mamaroneck, “the place 
of rolling stones,” where Smallwood’s Maryland battalion defeated 
Rogers’s Tory Rangers in 1776, and New Rochelle. This village was set 
tied by Huguenot refugees in 1691, after the fall of La Rochelle, and the 
French language was long used here. The State of New York granted a 
tract of land here to Thomas Paine. 

Thomas Paine, was born in England, 1737, and came to America in 1774. Early in 
1776 he published a tract, “Common-Sense,” advocating republican indepen¬ 
dence, and in Dec. “ The Crisis’’was published, beginning with the words, “These 
are the times that try men’s souls.” This was read at the head of every Conti¬ 
nental regiment, and aroused the drooping spirits of the army and people. Af¬ 
ter filling several offices in the U. S., he went to France in 1791, and was elected 
to the National Convention. After a stormy life in Europe, during which he 
attacked Burke in the “Bights of Man,” and advocated atheism in the “Age of 
Reason ” (1795), he came to New Rochelle in 1802, and settled on an estate given 
him by New York, where he died in 1809. In 1819 Wm. Cobbett removed his re¬ 
mains to England, and in 1839 the State erected a monument to Paine on his old 
farm. 

After New Rochelle, the train passes Pelhamville, and at Mount Ver¬ 
non turns to the S. W., and runs on the rails of the Harlem R. R., 
through several suburban villages without stopping, then crosses the 
Harlem River, and stops at the station, 42d Street, corner of 4th 
Avenue. 

New York, see Route 51. 

9. Boston to New Bedford. 

Via Old Colony Railroad, in 1 \ hr. 54 m. 

\ Boston to Taunton, then to Weir Junction and Myrick’s (crossing other 
lines of the same railroad at these places); then Howland’s and E. Free¬ 
town (1£ M. from E. Freetown village, at the head of one of the great Lake¬ 
ville ponds); then over the level fanning plains of Freetown to Acushnet, 
W. of the quiet hamlet of the same name (also reached, from New Bed¬ 
ford, by stage; running 5 M. farther to Long Plain in Rochester); then to 
New Bedford. 

New Bedford ( Parker House; Bancroft House), the Acushnet of the 
Indians, was settled in 1664, by Quakers, on lands owned later by Russell. 
This being the family name of the Dukes of Bedford, the settlement was 
named in compliment to them. In the Revolution the place became a 
perfect nest of privateers, until a British force under Earl Grey attacked 
it (in the autumn of 1778), and destroyed its shipping, wharves, and 
stores. In colonial times, a few vessels were sent out after whales. The 
Revolutionary War briefly interrupted this career of prosperity, but be¬ 
tween 1790 and 1857 the whalers from this port penetrated every sea. In 
1857, there were 329 whaling-vessels, with 10,000 sailors, and an invested 


BOSTON TO NEW BEDFORD. Route 9. 91 


capital of 312,000,000. The business began to decline after the Californian 
gofd-fever; scores of the old ships were filled with stone, carried to the 
South, and sunk in the channels before the rebellious cities on the coast; 
and in the last hours of the Secession War the Confederate cruiser “ She¬ 
nandoah” destroyed a large part of the Pacific whaling fleet. In 1871, 
33 whalers were caught in the ice in the Arctic Ocean and abandoned. 
The whaling business (though declining) is still carried on here to a greater 
extent than from all other parts of the world combined. New Bedford 
has 41,000 inhabitants. Its extensive water-works cost 31,200,000. The 
Wamsutta Mills have 2.300 workmen and 202,000 spindles, and use 22,000 
bales of cotton yearly; the Potomska Mills, 1,300 hands and 100,000 
spindles; the Grinnell and Acushnet Mills, 62,500 spindles each; the 
Oneko Woollen Mill employs 175; the glass-works, 300; 

the Morse Twist-Drill Works, 200; the carriage factories, 
150; and 300 are engaged in art-productions. Grace Church has 

a fine chime of bells. 

New Bedford fronts on the widenings of the Acushnet River, near its 
mouth, and is built on the side of a ridge sloping to the water’s edge. It 
“ has a cosmopolitan air always blowing over its strata,” from the number 
of foreign mariners who are found here, and one of its quarters is called 
Fayal, from the large population of Portuguese there residing. The upper 
part of the city is pleasant, and County St. is lined with stately old 
residences of the marine aristocracy, whence Lady Emma Stuart Wortley 
called this “a city of palaces.” These “ palaces ” are all on the model of 
the “ architectural boulders ” so common in the decadent fishing-ports 
along the coast. The City Hall is a fine granite building, and the 
Custom House is built of the same material. Several of the churches are 
notable for their neatness and grace, especially the spacious Unitarian 
Church. The City Library is a large and rapidly increasing collection of 
books, kept in finely arranged rooms, and free to the public. The wealthy 
old families of the aristocracy of New Bedford are famous for their hospi¬ 
tality and culture, and but few of the citizens go abroad to seek summer 
recreation. The favorite drive is around Clark’s Point, which extends into 
Buzzard’s Bay, and is bordered by a broad, smooth road, constructed at 
great expense by the city to give its people the benefits of the sea-breezes 
in summer. This avenue (5 M. around) affords a brilliant scene in sultry 
summer afternoons. 


Opposite the city, and joined to it by a bridge (horse-railway) is Fairhaven (so 
named from its pretty location), a village formerly devoted to the whale trade. 
In 1778, while New Bedford was burning, a large British force crossed to Fair- 
haven, intent on its destruction. But Major Fearing o, Uie militia, fearing not, 
attacked and repulsed them and saved the village. , ^ _ 

Westport Point (Hotel Westport , $2.50 a day, 311-15 a week) is 15 M. S. W. 
of New nedford, whence (and from Kali River) it is reached by daiiy stages leaving 
at 2.30 P. M. (fare 31). It has good ocean and river fishing and sailing, and capi¬ 
tal bathing on llorseneck Beach, with its 8* M. of level hard sands. Many sum¬ 
mer-visitors come to this picturesque old port, the Acucikset of the Indians, and in 


92 


Route 9. 


ELIZABETH ISLANDS. 


oil times, with its neighbor town Dirtmou h (the Tn<]i:m Apnniganset), a nursery 
of sailors and fishermen. Great hauls of menhaden have been made off the UadaU- 
Aram shores, outside the deep inlets which penetrate far into the land. 

Railroad from Fairhaven to Tremont, on the 0, 0. If. 1?., see page &4. 

Steamers leave daily during the summer, for Martha’s Vineyard. Upon leaving 
the wharf, a fine view is obtained of Fairhaven on the E , and of the long wharves 
and populous slopes of New 7 Bedford on the W. Palmer’s Island with its light¬ 
house and Fort Phoenix, is soon passed, and then the long, projecting Clark’s 
Point, with a strong undress now in process of construction. The s’earner 
now passes straight to the S. E. across Buzzards Bay, a noble estuary 30 M. long 
by 10 M. wide, with thinly populated shores. The Norsemen (11th century) 
called this Bay, Straum Fiord ; the origin of its present name is not apparent. 
Far to the S. are seen the Round Hills, on the Dartmouth coast, and Cutlyliunk, 
the outermost of the Elizabeth Islands. Cuttyhunk was colonized by Capt. 
Gosnold, in May, 1602, with a company sent out by the Earl of Southampton. 
He named the Island “ Elizabeth,” in honor, probably, of the maiden Queen. The 
island is 51. long, and at that time abounded in game. Gosnold and his 
people erected a fort and cabins on an islet in a pond near the centre of Cutty- 
hunk, and here inaugurated the first settlement of New England. But the 
Indians were hostile and numerous, and the colonists’ supplies soon gave out; so 
within a few weeks the plan was abandoned, and the people returned to England. 
The island is now occupied by a merry club of New-Yorkers, and the llo inhabi¬ 
tants of Gosnold township. On Penikese Island (covering about 100 acres) 
is the villa long occupied by John Anderson, of New' York, who (in April, 1373) 
gave the island and S50,000 in cash to Prof. Agassiz for the location of a summer 
school of zoology and science (since abandoned). Nashaweua 

(3 M long) is E. of Cuttyhunk, and beyond that is Pasque Island. This is owned 
by a New York club, which has built a club-hon=e, farms, and stables, and prepared 
fruit and flower gardens, and preserves of small fish tor bait. The surrounding 
waters abound in bass, blue-fish, squeteague, sword-fish, &c. Next to Pasque is 
Naushon, 8 51. long, which w f as for many years the favorite residence of James 
Bowdoin, an early American diplomatist, whose mansion was adorned by a large 
library, philosophical apparatus, and a fine picture-gallery, which he had collected 
in Europe. At his death he left all these things, together with the reversion of 
Naushon, to Bowdoin College. Lady Wortley, w'ho visited the island early in 
this century, says, “Naushon is a little pocket America, a Lilliputian Western 
world, a compressed Columbia.” 

Naushon is owned by John 51. Forbes, of 5Iilton. and is said to be “stocked 
with all the varieties of English and Scotch game-birds, and most of their game 
animals, including also several hundred American deer, prairie fowl,” etc. Kettle, 
and Tarpaulin Coves are well-known harbors, respectively on the N. and S. shores 
of Naushon. Near the N. E. end of the island are the islets of Wepecket, Unca¬ 
tena, Nonamesset, and the Ram Islands. Between Naushon and the Falmouth 
shore is the strait called Woods Holl, a difficult and intricate passage between 
Buzzards Bay and the Vineyard Sound. The steamer stops at the village of 
Woods Holl, where there are several summer boarding-houses. (See Route 7.) 
After leaving this point, and passing Nobsque Light on the 1., the steamer crosses 
Vineyard Sound, and stops at the wharf at Martha’s Vineyard (Route 7). Says 
an English tourist: “ What scenes can 1* more refreshing and exalting than an 
expansive view of the mighty waves, dotted here and there with such beautiful 
islands as those in the Vineyard Sound ? While aquatic birds skim the waves, 
and the gulls are screaming, dipping, and darting over a shoal of blue-fish, or 
menhaden, vessels outward and homeward bound are always passing, for it in¬ 
cludes in its range of view the packets and sailing-craft between New York and 
Boston. We have here the foreground and perspective worthy of the pencil 
of Claude Lorraine, while the background is granite shores of 

Massachusetts.” 

Nonquitt (Nonquitt House), 6 51. S. E. of New Bedford, is a charming and 
quiet summer resort, ou au upland on the W. shore of Buzzards Bay, witu flue 
beaches aud many cottages. Steamer daily to New Bedford. 


PROVIDENCE TO WORCESTER. Route 10. 93 


10. Providence to Worcester. 

Via Prov. and Worcester R. R., 43 M., Fare $1.20. 

The railroad follows the line of the Boston and Providence R. R. as far 
as Pawtucket, and then turns up the valley of the Blackstone River. Sta¬ 
tions, Pawtucket, Valley Falls, and Lonsdale. At the latter place the track 
passes through a deep cut in Study Hill, to which William Blackstone, 
the first settler of Boston, retired after the Puritan immigration. He 
lived here in the wilderness from 1634 until his death, in 1675, surrounded 
by his books, and deeply respected by the Indians. The busy little river 
which flows by the hill was named in his honor. After passing the 
stations ol Berkeley, Ashton, Albion, and Manville, the train stops at 
Woonsocket (Monavient House , Woonsocket Hotel), a thriving manufac¬ 
turing city. Within a radius of 3 M. from the centre of the city are 
30,000 inhabitants. In the city itself, 4,200 persons are engaged in 
cotton-factories 2,400 in woollen-factories, and 700 in other manufactories. 
In 1869, the production of these busy hands was reported as 43,000,000 
yards of cotton cloth, 3,300,000 yards of woollens and cassimeres, 100,000 
grain-bags, 30 tons cotton-warp, 1,000 tons of soap. The celebrated 
Harris cloths are made here. The Social Mills have 43,000 spindles and 
500 hands. The town has erected a neat monument “ in memory of her 
brave sons who, during the great Rebellion, gave their lives that the 
Republic might live.” The Harris Institute is a popular institution given 
by Mr. Harris to the people, containing a large hall, and a library of 
7,000 volumes. Woonsocket Hill, the highest land in the State, com¬ 
mands a fine view of the populous and busy valley. 

Railroads. — A branch road runs from Woonsocket to Ashland, Mass. The 
Woonsocket Division of the New York & New England R. R. terminates here, 
while the main line o that road crosses the Worcester route at Waterford. 

Bevond Woonsocket the line enters Massachusetts. Blackstone (Lin¬ 
coln House) iwxd Millville (Clarendon Hotel; stage to Slatersville, 2 M.) 
are in a manufacturing town of 5,000 inhabitants, in the Blackstone val¬ 
ley. Uxbridge ( * Hotel Windsor, $8-10) is a textile-manu¬ 

facturing village of 3,000 inhabitants, with 5 churches and a bank. Good 
views from the hotel, along the valley; and picturesque hill-scenerv on all 
sides. 4-5 M. W., in Sutton, is Purgatory, a wild and precipitous chasm, 
i M. long, 4 M. from Whitinsville. Near Uxbridge, in 1676, Major Tal- 
cott attacked and killed the Queen of Narragansett in her fortress. 

Whitins is li M. from Whitinsville (Whitinsville Hotel) and its cotton- 
machinery works. Northbridge is 2 M. from Northbridge Centre. From 
Fornumsville (Farnumsville Hotel) daily stages run to Upton (Warren 
House) hill farms (4 M.), and Milford (9* M.); also to Grafton. Beyond 
o andersville the train reaches Millbury (St. Charles Hotel), a prosperous 
factory-village, whence daily stages run to W. Millbury (3 M.), Sutton 
(3j M.), and W. Sutton (6£ M.); and a branch runs N. to the Albany B. R. 

£ hr. beyond Millbury, the train reaches Worcester (see Route 21). 


94 Route 11. PROVIDENCE TO HARTFORD. 


Boston to Newburgh. 

New- York <f New-England Railroad. 

Distance, 228 M. Fare, $5.69. 

This important modern route follows the line described on page 117 as 
far as Putnam , whence it runs S. W. to Pumfret (see page 118), famous 
for its dairies and the villas of many city-families: Abington and Elliott's, 
amid rich farming lands; Hampton, one of the oldest towns in Connecti¬ 
cut; Goshen; N. Windham; and Willimantic. 

The Providence Division of the N. Y. & N. E. Railroad runs from 
Providence 59 M. W., bv Cranston, the seat of the Rhode-Island State in¬ 
stitutions ; Pontiac, Natick, River Point, Quidnick and Anthony, busy cot¬ 
ton-manufacturing villages; Summit, with its granite-quarries; Plainfield , 
where the Norwich & Worcester Railroad crosses the line; Jewett City; 
Versailles, with cotton and paper mills; Baltic, with cotton-mills; Scot¬ 
land; and S. Windham, near the far-viewing summer-resort, the Obwe- 
betuck Inn ($17.50 to $25 a week). At Willimantic, the Providence Di¬ 
vision joins the Boston-Newburgh route. The line crosses the New-London 
Northern Division of the Central Vermont R. R. at Willimantic ( Hooker 
House). This is a large manufacturing village, on the river of the same name, 
which falls 100 ft. in 1 M. Extensive thread, silk, and cotton mills are 
located on the water-power thus afforded, occupying large factories built of 
stone found in this vicinity. The Air Line R. R. between Boston and New 
York passes through Willimantic, which is becoming a great railroad 
centre. The only legend connected with Windham (in which town Wil¬ 
limantic is situated) is of a long battle between two hordes of immigrat¬ 
ing frogs, in which several hundred of the combatants were killed. This 
event has been duly attested and described by a local poet in a Batrachy- 
omachian epic of 30 stanzas. The train now passes Andover, Bolton (near 
which is Bolton Notch, a romantic pass into the valley of the Connecti¬ 
cut), and Vernon. At Vernon a branch track (5 M.) runs to Rockville, a 
prosperous manufacturing village on the water-power afforded by the 
Ilockanum River. Beyond Vernon is Manchester, which makes yearly 
2,000,000 yards of gingham, 90,000 pairs of socks, 450 tons of book-paper, 
besides government and bank-note paper for several nations. From 
thence a branch railroad (2J M.) runs to S. Manchester, the seat of the 
silk-works of the Cheney Brothers. After Manchester comes Burnside, 
where paper-making was a brisk business in 1776, and where there are 
now 3 paper-mills, whose yearly production is 300 tons of writing- 
paper, 400 tons of manilla paper, and 500 tons of book-paper. The 
next station is E. Hartford, with a wide, level street lined with elms, 
2 M. long. This district was the home of the Podunk Indians, whose 


AND WATERBURY. 


Route 11. 95 


chief, Totanimo, coukl bring 200 bowmen into the field. The train now 
crosses the broad Connecticut River and enters the city of Hartford (see 
Route 211. 


From Hartford the line runs by Newington to New Britain {Hotel lluss- 
win ; Strickland), a wealthy city of 19,000 inhabitants. The water-supply 
is from a large reservoir some 200 ft. above the village. In the centre of 
the town is a spacious square, adorned with trees and fountains, and near 
its end is the elegant and imposing S. Cong. Church. In the same vicinity 
is the State Normal School. The products of the industry of New 
Britain are varied and extensive. The Russel and Erwin Co. employs 50G 
men in 5 acres of works, and sends out millions of dollars’ worth of locks, 
which are used in all parts of the world. Hardware, lace, hose, merino 
goods, gold jewelry, and knives are made here in large quantities. 

Elihu Burritt, the “learned blacksmith,” was born at New Britain in 1811. At 
the age of 16, he was apprenticed to a blacksmith, and followed that trade for 
many years. Desiring to read the Bible in its original languages, he mastered the 
Greek and Hebrew by evening studies, and acquired such a philological taste, 
that he afterwards became familiar with all the principal ancient and modern 
languages. He became an earnest advocate of universal peace, temperance, and 
the abolition o ' slavery, and published a paper and several books in defence of 
these movements. After making several visits to Europe, he became U. S. Con¬ 
sul at Birmingham. 

At Plainville, the next station, the New Haven and Northampton R. R. 
(Route 15) crosses this route. Many carriages are made in this village. 
At Forestville, Bristol, and Terryville stations are many large clock-fac¬ 
tories, where every variety of clocks are' made. After passing several 
flag stations, the train stops at Waterbury (Earle House; Cooley), 
a prosperous city of 30,000 inhabitants, on a narrow plateau at the 
junction of the Mad and Naugatuck Rivers. The principal streets di¬ 
verge from Centre Square, a small but well-kept green, on which front 
two Cong, churches, the City Hall, and 

St. John’s Episcopal Church. The latter is called the finest church m 
the State, and is built of granite and Ohio stone in the pointed Gothic 
style. The sharply pointed ceiling is highly ornamented, and the spire 
(200 ft. high) uplifts a massive stone cross. The Silas Bronson Library, 
the gift of a New York gentlemen, contains 30,000 volumes'Und is free to 
the citizens. St. Margaret’s School (Episcopal diocesan) is on the hill 
near the square. 

The manufacturing interests of the city employ a capital of nearly 
§ 8,000,000. § 2,000,000 are invested in the brass-works, besides which 

there are 5 button-factories, 2 clock-factories, and works which turn out 
great quantities of wire, steel traps, hooks and eyes, hoop-skirts, and kero¬ 
sene fixtures. The American Bin Co., the Benedict and Burnham Mfg. Co., 


96 Route 12. 


NORWICH. 


and the Waterbury Brass Co,, have their works here. Silver-plated ware 
is made, also the best quality of steel rolls. 6 M. N. E. (tri-weekly stage) 
is the ancient hill-town of Wolcott, Aleott’s “New Connecticut.” 

There is a pleasant drive, much of the way on the quiet and embowered river-road, 
to the Riverside Cemetery (U M.), a small but picturesque rural ground among the 
forest-covered hills S. of the Naugatuck River. 

At Waterbury the line crosses the Naugatuck It. It. (see page 111), and runs S. W. 
and W. to UavvleyviUe, on the Housatonic It. It. (see page 114); Danbury (see page 
llti); Brewster’s (on the Harlem It It. and N. Y. City and Northern R. H.); Hope- 
well Junctiou (on the Newburgh, Dutchess, and Conu. It. It.); Fishkill, Matteawan, 
and Fishkill-ou-IIudsou. At the latter point passeugers are ferried across the Hud¬ 
son t( Newburgh- 


12. New London to Vermont. 

Via the New London Northern Division of the Central Vermont Railroad, New 
Loudon to Brattleboro’, 121 M. Fare, c>3.60. 

The train leaves the Shore Line Station at New London. Beautiful 
views of the broad and expansive Thames on the E.; so a seat should be 
secured on the r. side of the car. Near Mohegan is the old Mohegan reser¬ 
vation, where 824 Indians of that tribe were numbered in 1774. After 
passing Waterford, Montville, Massapeag, Mohegan, and Thamesville, 
the train crosses the Yantic River, and enters Norwich ( Wauregan House , 
$ 2.50 - $ 3.00, corner Main and Union Sts.; Union-Square; Metropolitan; 
American House; Chelsea House). Norwich is a city of 10,000 inhab., 
with its streets terraced on a steep acclivity facing to the S. over the 
lake-like Thames, of which a local writer claims that “not Richmond 
Hill itself, or Greenwich observatory, looks on a Thames more fair.” 
The situation of the city is indeed beautiful, being on high ground be¬ 
tween the Yantio and Shetucket Rivers, which here unite to form the 
Thames. The business part of Norwich is in a semicircle of which Main 
St., from Franklin Square to Central Wharf Bridge, is the chord, and 
beyond this the residence-streets rise in terraced lines. Washington St. 
runs to Williams Park, on which are the noble buildings of the Free Acad¬ 
emy, one of which, the Slater Memorial Museum , was erected bv Win. 
A. Slater, as a memorial of his father, John F. Slater, who gave $1,000,000 
for the education of the Southern negroes. It is a handsome structure 
with porticos and towers. The great upper hall is divided into rooms by 
heavy silk curtains, and herein are 250 admirable plaster reproductions of 
the best works in Greek and Italian sculpture. The North Gallery con¬ 
tains GOO Braun photographs of the best of European paintings and archi¬ 
tecture. The South Gallery has plaster reproductions of the smaller arts 
of the Renaissance, and of armor. Under the rear gallery is a large col¬ 
lection of facsimiles of Greek gold and silver coins. The Peck Library 
contains 6,000 volumes. The museum also has many valuable paintings, 
loaned bv Mr. Slater, including The Rabbi, by Rembrandt; Landscape, 
Ruysdaet; Sewing Girls, Millet; Landscape, Troyon; Summer Afternoon, 
Daubigny; Farm at Coubon, and Nymph and Fauns, Corot; Sunset, 
Rousseau; Gleaners, Fromentin. The Museum is open Mon., Wed., and 
Sat., 2 to 5. Visitors admitted at other times by the Curator. 

Williams St. leads from the Academy to the site of Yantic Falls, “the 


NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. Route 12. 97 


beetling cliffs, the compressed channel, the confused mass of granite, and 
the roaring, foaming river,” by which a former generation’s “lone enthu¬ 
siasts wandered and dreamed.” The river has been dammed and diverted 
into an artificial channel, through which it affords a heavy water-power 
to a large cluster of factories below. Fine wood-carving machinery, rub¬ 
ber goods, corks, iron pipes, files, blankets and carpets, flax and twine, 
paper, envelopes, and cotton goods are manufactured in Norwich and its 
tributary villages. On Sachem St., near the site of the Falls, is a little 
cemetery in a cluster of pine-trees. This spot was chosen centuries ago 
as a sepulchral ground for the “ blood royal of Mohegan,” and has been 
carefully reserved by the tribe ever since. Many of the Grand Sachems 
are buried here, from those earlier chiefs of whom earthly history has no 
record down to Mazeen, the last of the line, who was buried in 1826 in 
the presence of 30 of the feeble remnant of the tribe. In the centre 
of the ancient monuments stands a massive obelisk erected to the memory 
of Uncas. (Its foundation-stone was laid by President Jackson.) 

Uncas was a chief of the Pequot tribe, who revolted in 1634 against the Sachem 
Sassaeus, and joined the Mohegans. He was chosen Sachem of the latter tribe, 
and by sagacious alliances with the English colonists, he steadily increased the 
power of his people, who had previously held a subordinate position among the 
aboriginal clans. He led his warriors by the side of the colonial train-bands in 
the campaign of 1637, which annihilated his most dreaded foe, the Pequot tribe; 
and in 1643, he fought the powerful Narragansetts until the Anglo-Mohegan 
forces, under his direction, had defeated and humbled that tribe. He repelled an 
invasion of the Western Indians, aided by a strong Mohawk contingent, in 1648, 
and kept up an incessant war upon his Indian neighbors until he became “the 
most powerful and prosperous prince in New England.” In 1640 he ceded to the 
colony of Conn, all his land except a tract on the W. shore of the Thames em¬ 
bracing three or lour townships, and sold (for £70) the present site of Norwich, 
which was occupied in 1660 by a nomadic church from Say brook. He frequently 
visited the colonial capitals, Boston and Hartford, and ever remained friendly to 
the settlers, holding his people to peace ul ways while every other tribe of New 
England (except the Christian Indians) joined King Philip’s league against the 
colonies. After reigning as Sachem of the Mohegans for nearly 50 years, he died 
in 1683, a consistent Pagan to the last. He was crafty, cruel, and rapacious in 
his policy ; but as the head of a savage people, he was sagacious and far-sighted, 
and as a military leader he was skilful and fearless. It is difficult to tell what 
would have been the course of New England history, or what final and over¬ 
whelming disasters might have blotted out those feeble colonies along the coast, 
had not the two great southern tribes been ruined by the attacks (some imes 
aided by a few dozen English musketeers) of the Mohegans under their Sachem, 
Uncas. Beyond the village of Greenville is Sachem’s Plain (1 2 -2M. from 
Norwich. Horse-cars most of the way). Here was fought a battle "between Mi- 
antonornoh and 900 Narragansetts, and Uncas with 500 Mohegans. 

Miantonomoh was the nephew of Canonicus, and in 1636 succeeded to the gov¬ 
ernment of the Narragansetts. He was ever a firm friend to the colonists, grant¬ 
ing them a large portion of the present State of Rhode Island, and leaving his 
quarrels with Uncas to their arbitration. In 1642 he went to Boston to meet 
certain men who had accused him of planning hostilities against the colonies. 
He awaited his accusers in tin presence of the Governor and council of Massa¬ 
chusetts, but no charges were preferred against him, and he left Boston after re¬ 
ceiving high honors from Gov. Winthrop, who admired his character. In the 
following year, stung to madness by insults offered by Uncas, he led 900 Narra- 
gansett warriors in an attack on Mohegan. Uncas and 500 men met him on 
Sachem’s Plain, and in accordance with a plan preconcerted by the Mohegan 

6 


98 Route m. NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. 


chiefs, invited him to a parley. While this parley was going on, and the Narra- 
gansetts were off their guard, the Mohegans made a tierce and sudden attack and 
scattered them in all directions. The pursuit was continued for many miles, and 
hundreds of the invaders fell, but Miantonomoh was captured and led prisoner to 
Hartford. After remaining here in close confinement, he was surrendered to Un- 
cas, by whom, “ by the advice and consent of the English magistrates and elders,” 
he was executed. The royal Narragansett was carried by Uneas and his warriors 
from Hartford to Norwich, and was put to death on the battle-field of Sachem’s 
Plain, at a place now marked by a stone monument inscribed “Miantonomoh, 
1643.” He was a brave, magnanimous, and humane Sachem, incapable of dissim¬ 
ulation or treachery, and therefore he became their victim. 

For many years his people came hither in the season of flowers and adorned his 
grave, each of them leaving a stone upon it. The lofty cairn thus formed re¬ 
mained till a farmer (of the English “ Hodge” type) carried away the stones to 
make a foundation for a new barn. In 1841, the present granite monument was 
erected. 

Nanunteno, the son of Miantonomoh, and his successor in the government, 
ever cherished a just hatred of the colonists, and joined King Philip’s league with 
enthusiasm. Having been made prisoner, in 1676, he was offered pardon in case 
he would treat with the English. On declining to make terms, he was threatened 
with instant death, whereupon he answered, “ I like it well; 1 shall die before my 
heart is soft, or I have spoken anything unworthy of myself” ; “acting herein,” 
says Cotton Mather, “as if, by a Pythagorean metempsychosis, some old Roman 
ghost had possessed the body of this Western Pagan, like Attilius Regulus.” He 
was instantly shot. 

About 5 M. S. of Norwich is the old fortress of Uncas, on the highest hill in 
Mohegan, and in the vicinity live the few half-breeds who are all that remain of 
the tribe of Uncas. President Dwight’s remark about the Pequots at Groton will 
apply equally well to the Mohegans or to the Narragansetts in Charlestown, R. I., 
“the former proud, heroic spirit of the Pequot is shrunk into the tameness and 
torpor of reasoning brutism.” 

Steamers leave Norwich every morning, in summer,for New London and Watch 
Hill, Block Island, and Fisher’s Island. 

After leaving Norwich the line passes the stations Norwich Town, Yan- 
tic, Franklin, and Lebanon. The village of Lebanon, situated in a rich 
farming district, was very lively during the War for Independence. Jon¬ 
athan Trumbull, Governor of Conn. 1769-83, resided here, and here was 
the War Office of the State, which furnished more men and money in the 
Revolutionary War than any other State save Massachusetts. Gov. 
Trumbull was Washington’s right-hand man during the northern cam¬ 
paigns, and when any perplexing question or pressing demand arose, the 
noble Virginian would often say, “Let us see what Brother Jonathan 
says.” The name “Brother Jonathan” has passed into universal use as 
a humorous designation of the U. S., corresponding to the “John Bull ” 
which is applied to England. At the gubernatorial mansion in Lebanon, 
Trumbull received Washington, Lafayette, Rochambeau, Jefferson, 
Franklin, and other distinguished men. Five French regiments were can¬ 
toned in the town and reviewed by the commander-in-chief, while De 
Lauzun’s Legion (500 horsemen) wintered here. The Trumbull mansion 
and War Office are still standing, and in the little cemetery E. of the v ; ’- 
lage is the family vault. 

The most prominent of the Trambulls are Jonathan, Gov. of Conn. 1769-83; 
Jonathan, his son, M. C. in 1789-95, U. S. Senator in 1795-6, and Governor in 
1798 -1S09: Josenh, another son, commissary-general of the Continental Army; 


NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. Route 12. 99 


Joseph, grandson of “ Brother Jonathan,” 5 years M. C., and 2 years Gov. of Conn.; 
Lyman Trumbull (born near Lebanon in 1813), the eminent jufist and U. S. Sena¬ 
tor from Illinois, 1855-72 ; and Col. John Trumbull (some time of the 1st Conn., 
and afterwards aide to Washington), who studied painting under West, in Lon¬ 
don, and executed many large historical pictures, depicting scenes of the Revolu¬ 
tionary era. Four of his works are in the rotunda of the Nation il Capitol, and a 
good collection of iris paintings is in the Athenaeum at Hartford. The Art Gal¬ 
lery of Yale College has a large number of his minor works, 57 in all. 

The line now leaves the Yantic Valley, runs along the border of the 
Shetucket, and, passing S. Windham, stops at Willimantic (see Route 11). 
At this point the New York 

and New England tracks cross the New London Northern Railroad. 

Running N. from Willimantic, the line follows the Willimantic River, 
through the county of Tolland. Stations, S. Coventry, Eagleville (with 
large sheeting manufactories), and Mansfield, with four companies engaged 
in making sewing-silk, a profitable industry which was inaugurated here 
in the last century. Stations, Merrow, S. Willington, and Tolland, about 
4 M. W. of which is a sequestered village containing the modest county 
buildings. Stafford is celebrated for its mineral springs, the principal 
one being among the best of chalybeate springs. It contains considerable 
iron in solution, with carbonic acid and natron, and is a pleasant water to 
the taste. It is held to be very efficacious in all cutaneous affections. 
The other spring, which is charged with hydrogen gas and sulphur, has 
become choked up, and has long been disused. The Indians were in the 
habit of using these waters with beneficial effect, and the whites began to 
visit the springs about 110 years ago. They are now but little used. 

The Stafford Springs House is a large and inexpensive hotel near the 
chalybeate spring, on the 1. of the track. 

The train now runs N. for 10 M. across the sparsely populated town of 
Stafford, and at State Line it enters the State of Massachusetts. The 
town of Monson is next crossed (11 M.). Much manufacturing is done 
here along a branch of the Chicopee River, and a fine granite quarry is to 
be seen near the central station, from which great quantities of stone have 
been sent to Albany for the new State House. The extensive buildings 
of the State Primary School are in this town, on a farm of 260 acres, and 
there are over 400 pupils. The scenery here is picturesque, and culmi¬ 
nates in the bold heights of Peaked and Moon Mts. The village (Mon¬ 
son House) is pleasantly situated on high ground, and has a bank, an 
academy (150 pupils), 3 churches, a hat-factory, and several woollen- 
mills. The town has 3,400 inhabitants. 

At Palmer the line crosses the Chicopee River and the Boston & Al¬ 
bany R. R. Stages run S. E. to Parksville, 5 M. ; Brimfield, 9 ; 

E. Brimfield, 12; Fiskdale, 14|; Sturbridge, 16£ ; and Southbridge, 20. . 
Brimfield is a hilly farming town with 1,201 inhabitants and a soldiers’ 
monument (Brimfield House; see page 130). Stages run to Wales (Wales 
Hotel), 4£ M. S.. near ihe far-viewing Mt. Hitchcock, a grazing town, with 
1,000 inhabitants. Holland (Holland Hotel) is a farming town, 4j M- S. 


100 Route 12. 


AMHERST. 


Stations, Three Rivers; Barrett's Junction, where the Athol R. R. is crossed; 
and lielchertown (Highland House), a hill-town devoted to fariniug, with 2120 
inhabitants,and 3 churches Here Dr. J.G Holland was born. The Clapp Memon n 
Library is a handsome building : and there is a monument to lit soldiers who died 
in the Revolution, and 34 who died in the Secession War Bclchertown has ‘even 1 
bold eminences and handsome ponds The settlement took place in 1731, and 
was named Cold Spring, after a large fountain. 

After running across Bclchertown (13 M.) the train passes S. Amlitrst 
and stops at 

Amherst (Amherst House, $2. a day, \ M. from the station), a 
pretty village situated in a romantic district, and distinguished for 
its college. Its society is of that cultured and refined order which is 
usually found in American academic towns, and its aesthetic taste is seen 
in the fine architecture of its churches (notably Grace Church and the 
1st Congregational). The buildings of Amherst College (founded in 
IS21) are located on a hill on the edge of the village to the S. On the 
street W. of the buildings are the President’s House, the Library, and 

College Hall. The line of older college-halls includes North College, the 
old Chapel and South College, in the earlier Novanglian architecture, and 
closely resembling the ancient buildings of Harvard. At one end stands 
the Appleton Cabinet; and the Pratt Gymnasium is N. of the campus. 

The Natural-History collections of Amherst College are open to the pub¬ 
lic. The Woods Cabinet of 25,000 specimens includes geological collec¬ 
tions of America and Europe; the State-survey collections of Massachu¬ 
setts, Connecticut, Vermont, and New Hampshire; and the Shepard 
meteorites. The Gilbert Museum of Indian Relics, in the Appleton Cabi¬ 
net, has 3,500 stone implements of extinct tribes, mainly those who lived 
in the Connecticut Valle}'. The Adams Zoological Collection comprises 
prepared specimens of animals and their habitations, and dried plants, 
representing all the great groups of the animal and vegetable kingdom, 
with the Auzoux models, a collection in comparative osteology, and a 
valuable series of shells. There are 100,000 specimens in this collection, 
in the Appleton Cabinet. Here, also, are 600 birds collected by Audubon 
himself, and the typical specimens by which the species were determined; 
together with many later-found Californian birds. 


NEW LONDON TO VERMONT. Route 12. 101 


On the lower floor is a hall 110 ft. long by 45 ft. wide, wherein are kept 
9,000 specimens of ancient tracks in stone. This wonderful * collection 
is by far the largest in the world, and well illustrates the science of ich- 
nology which first arose at Amherst. The tracks of birds, beasts, and 
reptiles, which have been dead perhaps a myriad of years, and the marks 
o!:’ the pattering of rain-storms which fell through the silent air of pre¬ 
historic ages, are here preserved on the sandstone of the Connecticut 
valley. 

Edward Hitchcock, D. D., the founder of iclinological science, was born at 
Deerfield, Mass., in 1793. He was connected with Amherst College, either as 
professor or president, from 1825 to 1865, and planned and executed the geological 
survey of Mass., “the first survey of an entire Shite under the authority of gov¬ 
ernment in the world.” He published 25 volumes, mostly on geological sub¬ 
jects, of which the “Elementary Geology” and the “Religion o Geology” 
passed through many editions in America and England. “The Ichnology of 
New England,” published by the State in 1858, illustrated and explained the 
branch of science which he founded. 

Amherst College is under the auspices of the Congregational Church, and has 
about 350 students, with libraries of 50,000 volumes. Morning stages run from 
Amherst to Hadley and Northampton ; afternoon stages to Shutesbury, W. Pel¬ 
ham and Pelham. 

E. of the verdant lawn and overlooking the valley is 1 he new and 
elegant * Memorial Chapel, whose exterior is a beautiful model of Gothic 
architecture. It is cruciform in shape with finely finished rose-windows 
in the transept, and colonettes of polished Scotch granite at various points 
on the outside. The graceful spire is built (as well as the Chapel walls) 
of stone, and within the tower is a marble tablet, containing the names 
of the alumni and past students of Amherst who fell in the War for the 
Union. From the E. side of the chapel is obtained a pleasing view of the 
rich valley E. of Amherst. The 

N. side of the prospective quadrangle is occupied by two fine 
stone buildings; Walker Hall, a tasteful and ornate structure sur¬ 
mounted by a spired observatory, and fronted by an elegant portico, 
formed by five Gothio arches supported on coupled columns ; and 
Williston Hall, a substantial brick building. Before leaving the College 
Hill, the College Tower should be ascended for the sake of the * view, 
which is one of the most beautiful in New England, extending over parts 
of the rich Conn, valley and over the rugged and picturesque towns of 
eastern Hampshire. The Art Gallery is in Williston Hall, and has a 
rich collection of casts, illustrative of every school and period of sculp¬ 
ture. On the opposite side of Amherst, and about l M from the Green, 
is the Massachusetts Agricultural College, Its handsome buildings are 
on the edge of a rich plain, from which fine views are obtained of the 
mountains on the W. and S. On the experimental farm of 400 acres is 
the Durfee Plant-House, where many rare and valuable plants are 
preserved. The “Aggies ” (as the students here are called by the other 
New England collegians) are drilled to a high state of discipline (infantry 


102 Route 12. 


NOKTII FIELD. 


and light artillery) by military instructors; and of such a nature is the 
field-work, that this has become the best agricultural school in America. 

Excursions are made from Amherst to Mt. Norwottuck (4 M.), North¬ 
ampton (7 M.), Mounts Holyoke, Tom, and Sugar-Loaf. Mt. Toby (1,000 ft. 
high) is ascended by a carriage-road, and has a hotel and observatory 
on top, where pure air and quiet are found. The views from the tower 
are broad and beautiful. It. It. station, Mt. Toby or Montague. 

Beyond Amherst are the stations N. Amherst, Mt. Toby , and Leverett. 
The latter is situated in the midst of very picturesque scenery. The line 
now passes through Montague, with the Hunting Hills on the E. Stations, 
Montague and Miller's Falls, where the Vt. and Mass. R. R. (Route 25) 
and Miller’s River are crossed. Stations, Northfield, Farms and then 
Northfield (Northfield Hotel), a charming village with broad streets, on 
a plateau above the intervales along the Conn. River. This peaceful agri¬ 
cultural town was settled in 1GG3, on the Indian lands called Squawkeague. 
During King Philip’s War frequent and fierce attacks were made upon it 
by the Indians, and troops conveying supplies were ambushed and cut to 
pieces. When Major Treat, with his “flying army” of Conn, soldiers, 
reached the place, its people evacuated it, and passed, under his escort, to 
a place of safety. It was reoccupied in 1G85, but Indian attacks soon 

compelled the decimated settlers to leave, and it lay desolate until 1712, 
when the erection of Fort Dummer afforded sure defence. Dwight L. 
Moody, the evangelist, was born and lives here; and near his house stands 
the girls’ seminary which he founded, 1 M. N. of the village, and with a 
noble view. 5 M. distant, in Gill, is Moody’s Mt. Hermon School for 
Bovs, with 300 acres of land and half a dozen buildings. The main street 
of Northfield, 2 M. long, between the river and the mountains, is 200 ft. 
wide, lined with ancient houses and quadruple rows of grand elm-trees. 
Many summer-boarders sojourn here. The broad intervales and the quiet 
Connecticut River are crossed between Northfield and S. Vernon. 

At S. Vernon a connection is made with the Asliuelot Railroad, which passes 
the stations, Hinsdale, Asliuelot, Winchester, Westford, and Swanzey (all in New 
Hampshire), and at Keene connects with the Cheshire Railroad. Hinsdale was 
settled by Mass, people in 1083, and was the site of Hinsdale’s and Bridgman’s 
Forts. Throughout the early border-wars it was the scene of numerous attacks 
and skirmishes, but was boldly held as the outpost of colonial civilization. Hins¬ 
dale is now a prosperous town, through which the Asliuelot River flows to the 
Connecticut. From Mine Mt., a few years ago, volcanic signs were seen, and a 
lava-like substance was thrown out. An ancient Indian fort is situated on a hill 
near the river, and isolated from the plateau by a deep, broad trench. Winchester 
was granted by, and settled from, Mass, in 1733, under the name of Arlington, and 
was totally destroyed by an Indian attack in 1745. Swanzey is a large and thinly 
populated town, settled under the same circumstances, and destroyed at the same 
time as Winchester. 

At S. Vernon the Conn. River Railroad from Springfield terminates. 

From S. Vernon the New London Northern track runs N. about 9 M. 
through the town of Vernon (seats on the r. side of the car command a 
view of the fertile intervales of the Connecticut, and of the river itself). 
This is one of the oldest towns of Vermont, and scores of its early set- 


BRATTLEBORO’. 


Route 12. 103 


tiers were killed by the hostile Indians. The next station is Brattleboro’, 
121 M. from New London. 

Hotels. — * Brooks House, the best in Vermont, accommodating 175 — 20t) 
guests, $3-3.50 a clay. Brattleboro’ House; American House. 

In 1724 the Legislature of Mass, had a fort built near the river and about 1 M. 
S. of the present village. This fort, called Fort Dummer, was garrisoned by 
troops of the colony and friendly Indians, and served as a shield for the river- 
towns. Though often attacked, it was never lost. The first settlement in the 
State was located here under the protection of the fort, and but two or three 
small villages were established in the S. part until the conquest of Canada, after 
which, from 1760 to 1768, 138 townships were granted in Vermont. In 1753, the 
village near Fort Dummer was named Brattleboro ugh, in honor of Col. Brattle, a 
distinguished Bostonian, who was one of its proprietors. 

Brattleboro’ is a large village, well and compactly built, at the junction 
of Whetstone Brook (which affords a considerable water-power) with the 
Connecticut. The location of the village is beautiful, being on an uneven 
plateau above the great river, and surrounded by lofty hills. Main St., 
the principal thoroughfare, is near and parallel to the river, and 100 ft. 
above it. The Brook, with its numerous factories, is near the station, in 
the S. of the village. A beautiful view of Brattleboro’ and its mountain- 
ampitheatre is enjoyed from Cemetery Hill, an eminence just S. of the 
town. The opposite side of the river is filled by the dark and frowming 
masses of Mine and Wantastiquet Mts. At the N. end of the village is a 
pretty park, on the edge of the plateau, whence a charming view of the 
mountains is gained, while the placid river is seen gliding between its 
broad and fertile intervales. Below the park, in the valley, is the Ver¬ 
mont Asylum for the Insane, a well-conducted institution, connected with 
which is a farm of 600 acres, which is carried on by the inmates of the 
Asylum. From various points (back of St. Michael’s Church, kc.) on the 
riverward side of the plateau, pretty views of the river and Wantastiquet 
Mt. are obtained. The Estey Organ Works are the largest in the 

world, occupying 9 shops, with a capacity of 20,000 organs a year. 

The monument to James Fisk, Jr., is in the cemetery, and is much visited. It 
was executed by Mead, at a cost of $25,000, and bears emblematic female statues 
representing Navigation, the Drama, Railroads, and Commerce. 

Daniel Webster was a frequent visitor to Brattleboro’, and it was the 

home of Holbrook, the War-Governor of Vermont, and Gen. J. W. Phelps, a vet¬ 
eran of the Mexican and Secession Wars, who first enlisted and disciplined ne¬ 
groes in the armies of the Union. Among those born here were Wilbur Fisk, 
the Methodist divine, who twice refused a bishopric, and was President of Mid¬ 
dletown University, 1830-39; R. M. Hunt, the architect; W. M. Hunt, the 
painter of genre pictures ; and Larkin G. Mead, the sculptor, who, while yet a 
mere lad, worked one long winter night on a snow-figure at the head of Main St. ; 
and on the next morning (New Year’s) the citizens were startled to see there a 
statue of the “ Recording Angel” modelled in purest snow. 

In W. Brattleboro’ (Glen House, Vermont House) is the Glenwood Seminary, in 
a romantic site (stages three times daily). 

A bridge crosses the river here, and a road runs into hilly Hinsdale, N. of which 
i s the picturesque town of Chesterfield (N. II.), from whose level uplands much 
corn and hay is obtained by unwearied labor. Spofford Lake, in Chesterfield 
(10 M. from Brattleboro’), is a beautiful sheet of water 8 M. around, said by 
Howells to possess natural charms equal to those of the Italian lakes. 


104 Route IS. 


NORWICH TO NASHUA. 


The narrow-gauge Brattleboro’ and Whitehall Railroad runs 3^ M N. 

W. to S. Londonderry, in to 4 hours. It ascends the beautiful West-River val¬ 
ley, with continual scenic surprises. Stations, W. Dummersion (Valley House); 
Williamsvilie, whence stages to Dover ; Netvfane ( Fayetteville House), the shire- 
town ; Townsfiend (West-River House ; daily stages 9 M. to Grafton) ; W 
Townshend (Holden’s Hotel; daily stages to Windham); Warrlsboro; Jamaica 
(Jamaica House); Winhall ; and S. Londonderry (Edgewater Park). Stages run 
thence 3 M N. to Londonderry; and thence to Landgrave, Peru (Bromley 
House), and Manchester, 16 M ; and to Chester (see page 181) Lowell Lake 
(Lake House, ST a week) is 3 M. long, in the beautiful highlands 

Daily stages run from Brattleboro’ W. to IV. Brattleboro ’,2 M.; Marlboro', 10 M : 
W. Marlboro’, 14 M. ; Wilmington (Vermont House), 20 M. ; Searsburgh, 26 M. ; 
Woodford, 35 M. ; and Bennington, 42 M. Also, S. W. to Shelburne Falls (Mass.) 
via Halifax (cascades on North River, and Dun's Den, 25 ft. loug, 5 ft. wide and high, 
in solid rook Jin 27 M. ; to Shelburne Falls (45 M.)via Whitiugham, in which are the 
Sadawga Spriugs, with a hotel, near Sadawga Lake, in whose vicinity, in a poor log- 
hut, the heresiarch Brigham Young was born in 1801. 

From Brattleboro’ the Central Vermont Railroad runs N. to Montreal, Quebec, 
and upper Vermont (Route 26). 

13. Norwich to Nashua. 

Via Norwich and Worcester Division, New York and New England Railroad, and 
Worcester and Nashua Railroad. Distance, 106 M. ; fare, $3.55. 

Norwich to Putnam, see Route 19. Station, W. Thompson (good hotel), a 
pretty village 1 M. from the station, much resorted to in summer, and 
abounding in neat villas. Stations, Grosvenordale, N. Grosvenordale, 
after which the train crosses to Webster, in Mass. ( Joslin 
House). In this vicinity is a great, island-studded pond, 

which enjoys two names, — Chabonakongkomon and Chargoggagoggman- 
choggagogg. About this lake were the Elysian Fields of the Nipmuck 
Indians and the reputed home of the Great Spirit. The town has 7,000 
inhabitants and 7 churches, and makes shoes and textile goods. Both 
at Webster and N. Webster are large manufactories. Station, Ox¬ 
ford, a pretty village, on the Indian lands called Mancharge. 2 M. S. E. 
of the station is Fort Hill, bearing the remains of a bastioned fort built 
by a community of French Huguenots who settled here in 1683. 13 

years later, an Indian irruption so alarmed them that they abandoned 
the place, and lived in Boston for many years. Oxford Centre has large 
shoe manufactories, and several cotton and woollen mills are in the town. 

A monument stands on the site of the Huguenot fort in Oxford (Oxford 
House). Stations, N. Oxford, Auburn, S. Worcester , and Worcester. 

Trains connect at Webster for Southbridge and E. Thompson : at Worcester, for 
Boston, Albany, Providence, Gardner, Fitchburg, &c. The Mass Central R. R. 
crosses at Oakdale. 

The train runs on high terraces through W. Boylston, a picturesque 
town which was settled in 1720, and has 2,902 inhabitants, and 5 churches, 
with several factories at Oakdale ( Oakdale House). Boylston is a diver¬ 
sified farming town, 3-4 M. E. From Sterling Junction the Worcester 
and Fitchburg R. R. diverges to Fitchburg (14 M). Sterling ( Sterling 
Jnn) has 3 churches, large dairies, and high hills. 


PEPPERELL. 


Route 13. 105 


Beyond the Waushaccum Ponds (1.) and Clinton Ponds the train crosses 
the Old Colony R. R. (N. Div.) at Clinton ( Clinton House), a prosperous 
village of 10,500 inhabitants, with 2 papers, 5 churches, a library, a bank, 
and a Memorial Hall which cost $90,000. It has manufactories of fine 
Brussels and Wilton carpets, quilts, wire-netting, ginghams, plaids, 
combs, and cotton goods. S. Lancaster station is near the State Indus¬ 
trial School for Girls ; and Lancaster (* Lancaster House) is a beautiful 
old village on the highlands near Ballard Hill, with broad and elm-lined 
streets, 5 churches, a public library (22,000 vols.), and a Memo¬ 

rial Hall to commemorate its dead soldiers. 


This town was settled in 1653, and in 1676 was attacked by Kin? Philip and 
1,500 Indians, who besieged and burnt the pastor’s house, killing 22 and captur¬ 
ing 20 people. Several other attacks followed, and in 1704 the town was swept 
by 500 French and Indians. 

Beyond Still River is Harvard ( Harvard Hotel), a picturesque high¬ 
land farming village (stages to village, 2 M.), much visited in summer, 
and near the far-viewing Prospect Hill, and the island-studded, fish- 
abounding, Bare-Hill Pond. To the N. are ?he deep and sequestered 
Hell and Robbins Ponds. A Shaker community is in the N. E. part of 
the town. Ayer Junction (see Route 25). The next station is Groton 
Centre, a pretty village in a country of hills and lakes. 

It w%s attacked in 1676, by the Sachem Monoco at the head of 400 Indians, 
and 40 houses and the church were burnt, though the people repulsed all attacks 
from their refuge in 4 garrison-houses. This same sachem boasted to the be¬ 
sieged that he was marching on Concord and Boston, to destroy those towns. 
Within a year he was indeed in Boston, but as a captive, led through the streets 
with a rope around his neck, and afterwards hung on the Common. Hon. G. S. 
Boutwell, Gov. of Mass., 1851-3, and Secretary of the U. S. Treasury, 1869 - 73, 
was for many years a merchant in this town. Groton is the seat of Lawrence 
Academy. 


Station, Pepperell ( Prescott House ; the village is across the Nashua 
River, W. of the station), a town named after Sir Wm. Pepperell, the 
first New England baronet, by its first pastor, who was a chaplain in his 
Louisburg expedition. S. W. of the village is the curious hill called 
“The Throne,” while to the N. are the picturesque Hills of Missitisset. 
This is a quiet village with an old church, whose bell, according to an ol 1 
New England custom, tolls out the number of the letters in the name, 
and of years in the age, of each villager when he or she dies. 


Pepperell has 2,500 inhabitants, 4 churches, 180 farms, an imposing town- 

hall, and large paper-mills. .. 

The old Prescott mansion is on a broad domain 2k M. from the vil¬ 
lage. This was founded by Col. Wm. Prescott, who led the Middlesex minute- 
men to Cambridge, and commanded the Americans at the battle of Bunker Hill, 
where the Pepperell Co. lost 16 men. He left the redoubt within push of bay¬ 
onet of the British, warding off their thrusts by his flashing sword. His son, 
Judge Wm succeeded to the estate, and from him it was inherited by his son, 
Win Hickling Prescott, who here wrote a great part of his noble historical works. 


Soon after leaving Pepperell the line enters the State of New Hamp 

6 * 


106 Route Ilf. 


MIDDLETOWN. 


shire. Station, Hollis, 4 M. S. E. of the village of that name (stages 
to all trains) which gave 250 men to the Continental Armies. Soon after 
the train enters the city of Nashua (see Route 26). 

14. Saybrook to Hartford and Springfield. 

To the city of Hartford in 47 M. Fare, $ 1.05. This route follows the W. 
bank of the Conn. River, and a seat on the r. side of the car affords pleasing 
views of the river and the villages on its shores. 

For Saybrook Point see Route 8. After leaving Saybrook and crossing 
the Shore Line R. R. (Route 8), at the Junction, the line runs N. W. 
through the old limits of Saybrook, with the river close at hand. The 
soil of this town is enriched by piling thereon great quantities of white- 
fish, which are caught off its shores, and sold for a trifling sum per thou¬ 
sand. Stations, Essex, Deep River, Chester (rich farming 

country, with an Episcopal academy dating from 1792), Goodspeed’s (vil¬ 
lage across the river), Arnold’s (near which the village of E. Haddam is 
seen on the E. bank), and Haddam. Near Arnold’s, the mouth of Sal¬ 
mon River is seen on the E. bank, and 30 Mile, or Lord’s Island divides 
the Connecticut some distance above. The ancient territory of the 
“ fierce and warlike ” Wongung Indians embraced Haddam and E. Had¬ 
dam. They parted with their birthright for 30 coats, and the land was 
settled by people from Hartford. Quarries of some importance lufve been 
worked here, and the annual catch of shad is considerable. Stations, 
Higganum (a thriving river-landing and ferry), Maromas, 
and Middletown. 

Middletown (*McDonough House, 150 guests), “ the Forest City,” is a 
beautiful academic city, built on ground gently rising from the river at 
the bottom of a great bend. Its maritime interests are along the wharves 
which run out from Water St.; the seat of trade and of the hotels is on 
Main St.; while High St. is above all, and is lined with fine houses and 
carefully kept gardens. The Custom House and Court House (of Middle¬ 
sex Co.) are plain stone buildings, and there are several handsome churches 
in the city. The manufactures include pumps, webbing, and tape ($ 600,000 
a year), rules and chisels, sewing-machines, and several companies make 
britannia and silver-plated ware. The safe and convenient harbor (10 ft. 
of water at the wharves) renders this the last port on the river for heavy 
vessels. 

The campus of Wesleyan University fronts on High St. (which, with 
its double lines of stately trees, Charles Dickens called the finest rural 
street he had ever seen). The University appertains to the Methodist sect, 
and sustains a high reputation. The Eclectic Hall and the Greek-letter chap¬ 
ter-houses (especially the Alpha Delta Phi) are worthy of notice. Besides 
the old buildings in the usual Novanglian style, there are three fine new 


SAYBROOK TO HARTFORD. 


Route Ilf.. 107 


edifices of Portland sandstone. Rich Hall contains the library of about 
35,000 volumes. Judd Hall (the gift of Orange Judd, the agriculturalist) 
is a finely finished building, containing admirable natural-hi story collec¬ 
tions. Some of these cabinets are unexcelled in America, having been 
collected and arranged by scientists who have spent years in special 
studies. Casts of skeletons and parts of colossal animals whose species 
have long been extinct are arranged here. The Memorial Chapel is a 
fine work of architecture. Its lower room is used for daily college 
prayers, while above is the church proper, with memorial windows. 


That on the left is in honor of the past students who died as soldiers of the 
Union, and bears the inscriptions, “ The beauty of Israel is slain upon her high 
places” ; “ It is sweet and fitting to die for one’s fatherland,” in the Latin of 
Horace ; “ The earth is a grave of heroes,” in the Greek of Homer. Under the 
symbolic figure of a pelican are the names of the slain. The Wesleyan Guard 
(Co. G., 4th Conn. Reg.) went from the University, On the r. opposite is a win¬ 
dow bearing portraits of four presidents of the University: Wilbur Fisk, D. D. 
(1830- 39); Stephen Olin, D. D., author of “Travels in the East,” &c. (1842-51); 
Nathan Bangs, I). D., an itinerant minister, 1801-20, agent and editor of the 
Book Concern, 1820-36, and afterwards President of the University ; and A. W. 
Smith, LL. D., a prominent mathematician. The University has 19 in¬ 

structors and 200 students. 

The * view from the tower of the old chapel is delightful, embracing 
the bay-like river and its riparian Hills, the city below, and the busy quar¬ 
ries at Portland, the long and imposing buildings of the Insane Asylum 
on a hill in the S., the Industrial School, and the rolling hills to the W. 
On this hill was the far-viewing fortress of Mattabesick, the aboriginal 
chief Sowheag, and around its base the Massachusetts immigrants settled 
in 1653. Brissot de Warville, a French tourist (in 1733), asserted that 
“ from the hill over Middletown is one of the finest and richest prospects 
in America.” The villas and gardens of High St. extend on each side of 
the campus, and not far from it is the Indian Hill Cemetery, with a hand¬ 
some sepulchral chapel at the entrance, and fine views from its hills over 
leagues of farm-studded valleys. Here is buried Gen. J. K. F. Mans¬ 
field, who stormed Monterey, was highly distinguished at Buena Vista, 
fortified Washington City (1SG1), and was mortally wounded while leading 
his corps at Antietam. In this vicinity is the Industrial School for Girls, 
a model institution with fine buildings surrounded by broad lands, where 
the inmates are given three hours daily for study, and do their own work. 

O 11 a high hill 1^ M. S. E. of the city are the vast and imposing build¬ 
ings of the State General Hospital for the Insane. The main building 
is of Portland stone, and has a length of 768 ft. with accommodations for 
450 patients. It stands on spacious grounds which cover 230 acres of the 
hill, and commands a fine view of the city and the widenings of the river. 

Farther down the river are points often visited by geologists. Feldspar i> 
found here in such quantities as to make it an item of trade, as it is used in mak¬ 
ing porcelain. The lead mines so actively worked during the Revolution have 
long been abandoned. 


108 Route 15. 


MIDDLETOWN. 


On Main St. near the McDonough House is the Berkeley Divinity 
School, an Episcopal institut ion under the presidency of Bishop Williams. 
It was founded in 1850, has graduated 193 men, and has six pro¬ 

fessors and 25 students. The Chapel of St. Luke is a small hut beautiful 
Gothic structure, built of stone and adorned with rich stained windows. 
The students attend service in gowns, and their singing is fine. Near by 
and on Main St. is the elegant Church of the Holy Trinity (Episcopal) built 
of Portland stone, with a graceful timber roof. The N. and S. Congrega¬ 
tional churches are fine buildings, and Main St. has three banks, built in 
the style of bank-architecture peculiar to New England, — with one high, 
solid story, of stone or brick. The quaint little Parthenon which is used 
for a Court House is on the same street. 

Near the N. end of Main St. (with its large Roman Catholic church) is the pier of 
the Portland ferry. The quarries of red sandstone at Portland are of continental 
fame, and are situated near the pier at the other end of the ferry, whence also is 
gained a fine view of Middletown and the graceful Air Line Railroad bridge. The 
first quarry approached is the deepest, and from the sharp edge of the hill one can 
look down into a vast chasm from which has been taken the material for hun¬ 
dreds of fine buildings, and for fronts of long blocks in nearly every Atlantic city. 
The second quarry is the largest and oldest; and beyond this is a third. These 
works employ 800 men, great numbers of draught-animals, and 40 vessels. The 
stone is easy to work, of a durable character, and of a rich shade of brown. 

The Air Line of the N. Y , N. H. & II. R. R. runs from New Ilaveu to Middle- 
town and W’illimantic. A branch line runs from Berlin to Middletown. The 
Meriden, Waterbury and Conu.-River Railroad runs from Waterbury through 
Meriden to Cromwell, 30 M. 

The steamers between Hartford and New York stop at this point, generally late 
in the afternoon, and then proceed down the river, from whose mouth Middle- 
town is 34 M. distant. 

After leaving Middletown the Conn. Valley Railroad runs N. about 15 
M. passing through the towns of Cromwell, Rocky Hill, and Wethersfield, 
and enters the city of Hartford. Beyond Hartford the Conn. Central 
R. R. runs through the town E. of the Conn. River, to Springfield, in 11 
hours. This is now the Springfield Division, N. Y. & N. E. R. R. (See 
page 139 b.) 

15. New Haven to Northampton. 

Via N. H. and N. R. R., in 84 M. 

This line is often called the Canal R. R., since it follows the line of the old 
Farmington Canal for a considerable distance. It runs through a quiet agricul¬ 
tural country, and terminates near the W. centre of Massachusetts, on the line 
°f the Mass. Central R. R. Shortly after its completion in 1849 it was 

leased by the New York and New Haven R. R. for 20 years, and on the expiration 
of that time it reverted to the original proprietors. 

The line passes ^Vest Rock soon after leaving New Haven, and enters 
the valley of Mill River, which it follows for nearly 20 M. The town of 
Hamden, which is soon entered, is in a valley between the W. Rock Mts. 
and the E. Rock Mts., two ranges which run N. nearly parallel until they 
unite in Southington, and then advance into Massachusetts. Mt. Carmel 
(near the station of the same name) is a lofty spur from the E. Rock 


NEW HAVEN TO NORTHAMPTON. Route 15. 109 


Range, and is composed of greenstone. Hamden is a quiet country town, 
on fertile lands. The stations, Cheshire and Milldale, are in the town 
of Cheshire, a picturesque farming district, in one of whose villages is 
situated the Episcopal Academy of Conn, (military), which dates from 
1801. Plantsville and Southington are in a town by the latter name, 
formerly noted for extensive tin-ware manufactories, but now depending 
on iron-works. Station, Plainville, with the Farmington Canal on the 
r. and the Blue Hills on the 1. At this point the New York and New 
England Railroad crosses the present route. Station, Farmington. 
The village is seen about h M. away in a beautiful situation near the 
broad, rich meadows of the Farmington River. A broad and shaded 
street 2 M. long composes the village. This fair and fertile valley was 
the Tunxis of the Indians, who dwelt here in great numbers. Many of 
their cemeteries and fishing-places have been found. The land was 
bought from them by immigrants from Boston and Roxbury, who settled 
here in 1640. It was the pastor of this village who preached to the troops 
marching to Boston in 1775, from the text, “Play the man for your 
country, and for the cities of your God ; and the Lord do that which 
seemeth him good. ” 

From Farmington a branch track runs to New Hartford (14 M.), by the stations 
Unionville, Burlington, Collinsville, and Pine Meadow. At Collinsville (Valley 
House), the Farmington River is dammed, and affords a great power which 
is used by extensive works for the manufacture of axes and edged tools. The 
business was founded by Mr. Collins, and now employs 700 men, who, with 
their families, make up a populous village. 15,000 steel ploughs are sent out 
yearly to all parts of the world, and 200,000 Brazilian hoes have been made here 
in one year. Vast numbers of Mexican machetes are turned out, and more axes 
than at any other factory in America. Here, also, were made the pikes for John 
Brown’s raid on Virginia. 

At Collinsville the Conn. Western R. R. forms a junction with the branch. 

Beyond Farmington is Avon, a pretty village, where Silliman found 
“ remnants of primeval New England customs.” On the E., Talcott Mt. 
is plainly seen, with a lofty tower on its top. (See Environs of Hartford.) 

Stations, Simsbury, in the town of Simsbury, which was 

settled in 1670 on the Indian lands of Massacoe. During King Philip’s 
War the colonists buried their goods and fled, but the town was destroyed 
by the Indians and left so long neglected that the wilderness reclaimed it, 
and the returning settlers never found their buried treasures. On a hill 
W. of the track is the principal village, ambushed in trees. Just before 
reaching Granby, the next station, the Farmington River, which has 
followed the track for 15 M., turns sharply to the S. E. through a pass 
in the mountain, and flows down into the Connecticut. Station, Granby 
(three small hotels in the town), in a rugged farming town. Here was 
located Newgate Prison (State of Conn.),— a grim pile on the top of Copper 
Hill, where the prisoners were confined in the cavernous shafts and pas¬ 
sages of a copper-mine, —abandoned in 1760. Some of the convicts lived 


110 Route 15. NEW HAVEN TO NORTHAMPTON. 


CO ft. below the earth’s surface, amid unceasing darkness. The mouth cf 
the main shaft was covered by a massive stone building, and the prisoners 
were guarded by 20 soldiers. This subterranean labyrinth served for a 
State Prison from 1775 to 1827. The State says that the average mor¬ 
tality during that period was less than that in the other American prisons, 
but harsh stories went abroad about the gloomy caverns of Newgate. 

Soon after leaving Granby the line enters Massachusetts, and runs along 
Congamuck Pond to Southunck (Union Hotel), an elevated farming vil¬ 
lage. On the W. is the picturesque mountain-town of Granville , 

' devoted to farming and dairies (stages from Westfield. 
10 M.). The line now descends to the lowlands, passes through West- 
field village, and crosses the Albany R. R. (Route 25) and the Westfield 
River. A branch line runs thence 10 M. N. E. to Holyoke. 
Southampton is under the shadow of high hills. After leaving the latter 
place, the long ridge of Mt. Tom looms upon the r., while Pomeroys 
Mt. is farther away on the 1. Easthampton is now reached (Mansion 
lions ). This is the seat of Williston Seminary, which 

1 as been endowed with $250,000 by Hon. Samuel Williston, who has also 
given $125,000 to Amherst College, large sums to Mt. Holyoke Seminary, 
and has 3 times rebuilt the Payson Church in Easthampton. He began 
business by making buttons at home with his wife’s aid, after which he 
perfected machinery, and erected a factory. 

The manufactures of this town are thread, buttons, suspenders, and elastic 
goods. It has 3,;»t>4 inhabitants, banks, library, 4 churches, and a costly town- 
hall with a memorial tower. The scenery here is beautiful ; and the Mansion 
House ($ 10 - 12 a week) is a favorite summer-hotel. A branch railroad leads to 
Mt.-Tom Station, 3 M. N. E. on the Conn.-River R. R. (ferry to Mt. Holyoke). 

The train runs N. by the great bend of the Connecticut, with Mt. Hol¬ 
yoke visible on the r., and passes through Northampton and Florence 
(see page 159). It then goes N. W. by Leeds (sewing-silk factories) and 
Jlaydenville (brass-works), to Williamsburg (Hampshire House). 

Daily stages run 6 M. N. W. from Williamsburg to agricultural Goshen (Highland 
House), with rare minerals in its rugged mountains ; to Swift River; 12 

M. to Cummington ( Union House), a lofty mountain-town, devoted to grazing 
and dairies, and enriched by a library given by Mr. Bryant; 22 M. to Windsor; 
and 30 M. to Hinsdale, on the Albany R. R. Daily stages also 7 M. W. to Ches¬ 
ter field (Clapp’s Tavern), a grazing mountain-town, famous for its rare minerals ; 
13 M. to Worthington, a grazing town ; 20 M. to Peru, a decadent and highly pic¬ 
turesque mountain-town, 4 M. from Hinsdale. 

William Cullen Bryant, born at Cummington in 1794, is one of the lead¬ 
ing poets of America. His verses were published before he was ten years old, 
and the grandly solemn poem of “ Thanatopsis ” was written while he was in his 
13th year. For most of the time from 1815 to 1825 he was a lawyer in W Mass • 
hut in 1826 he connected himself with the “ New York Evening Post,” and lived at 
Roslyn. Long Island, until his death, in 1878. 

The New Haven and Northampton R. R. has been extended from Northampton to 
Whately, S. Deerfield, and Shelburne Falls, where it connects with thi 
Hoosac-Tunnel route (page 178 a) 


BRIDGEPORT TO WINSTED. Route 16. Ill 


16. Bridgeport to Winsted. 

Via Naugatuck R. R. in 62 M. Fare, $1.85. 

4 M. from Bridgeport the train crosses the broad Housatonic River. 
A-t Naugatuck Junction the rails of the Shore Line Railroad are left, and 
thq line turns to the N. E. and follows the Housatonic as far as Derby. 
The village of Birmingham (Basset House) is picturesquely located on a 
high headland at the junction of the Housatonic and Naugatuck Rivers. 
Commerce was formerly carried on on a large scale from this point, its 
vessels running to the West Indies, but manufactures have now taken 
possession of Dei’by. Great numbers of pins, tacks, brads, corsets, 

stockings, and melodeons (Sterling’s) are made here. The great 
Housatonic Dam is about f M. from the village and affords an immense 
water-power. It cost $500,000, and was three years in building, being 
constructed of solid masonry in the form of an arch, with the convex sur¬ 
face turned toward the pressure of the stream. The dam is 600 ft. long, 
and has 23 ft. fall, and the heavy roaring of the plunging waters can be 
heard miles away at night. 

Gen. David Humphreys was born at Derby in 1752. He was Washington’s aide, 
and long resided at Mount Vernon, after which he was minister to Portugal and 
Spain, and commander of the Conn, militia. 

Isaac Hull was horn here in 1775. He entered the navy, and in 1800 captured 
Port Platte, in Hayti. He distinguished himself in the Tripolitan War, and in 
18 J 2, commanding the “Constitution,” he escaped from a British squadron in hot 
pursuit, by warping his ship ahead during a calm. A month later he met the 
British frigate “Guerriere,” and captured her after a short, sharp action. Gen. 
Wm. Hull, born here, 1753, was condemned to death in 1812, for surrendering the 
Army of the Northwest, at Detroit, but President Madison pardoned him. 

An omnibus runs from Birmingham to its sister-village of Ansonia, passing 
along breezy heights which afford line views of the Naugatuck Valley and the 
rural homes of Derby scattered on the Trans-Naugatuck hills. In the N. end of 
Birmingham a small Green is passed, with a Saxon-towered Episcopal Church, 
and near it are churches of the Methodists, Congregationalists, and Catholics. 

A Railroad runs from Ansonia to New Haven direct. 

# 

Ansonia (Dayton House), the next station beyond Derby, is a thriving 
borough near the falls in the Naugatuck. It was founded in 1838, and 
has become the seat of numerous rolling-mills and foundries, 

and manufactories of clocks, lightning-rods, and brass 
wares. Some fine mansions are built on the heights over the river, and 
from near the tall stone church is gained a neat valley-view, embracing a 
great part of the old Indian domain of Paugussett. 

At Seymour, the next station, is a small village founded by Gen. 
Humphrey in 1810, for the manufacture of cotton, paper, and woollen 
goods. For the latter purpose he had imported large flocks of Spanish 
merino sheep. 

Beacon Falls has a water-power which is used by factories making a 
great number of woollen shawls. Station, Naugatuck, which is the 


112 Route 16. 


BRIDGEPORT TO WINSTED. 


seat of the Goodyear Glove (and Rubber) Co., a Pin Co., and of Tuttle's 
Works, which turn out 400,000 rakes and hoes each year. Naugatuck is 
derived from the Indian phrase, Nau-ko-tunk, meaning “ one large tree,” 
from a lofty and prominent tree which once stood on the B-ock Rimmon, 
near the Falls Station. Union City, and Waterbury (see Route 11). 

Junction is formed here with the New York and New England Railroad, and also 
with the Watertown Branch. Watertown ( Warren House), about 6 M. distaut, 
is a quiet village in a very picturesque hilly farming town. 

Stations, Waterville , Plymouth (near quarries of white granite), and 
Litchfield , 4 M. bv stage from Litchfield (* Lake- View House , on West 
Hill, open June 20-Oct. 1 ; United States), a lovely summer- 

resort, with scores of rural villas, and 500 summer visitors annually. 

The Shepaug It. It. runs hence S. W. to Ilawleyville (32 M.) and Bethel, con¬ 
necting with other lines. This village is the couuty-seat of Litchfield Co., and once 
claimed jurisdiction to the Mississippi River. 

The Royal Charter of Connecticut in 1664 defined that colony as “all that part 
of His Majesty’s dominions, in New England, in America, bounded the E. by 
Narragansett Bay, ... on the N. by the line of the Massachusetts Plantation, 
and on the S. by the sea. And in longitude . . . from said Narragansett Bay on 
E. to the South Sea on the W. part, with the islands thereunto belonging.” Sub¬ 
sequently royal grants detached from this vast belt parts of New York and 
Pennsylvania, although much of the tract in the latter State (including the Valley 
of Wyoming), was settled from Conn. At the close of the Revolution the State 
ceded this, her western domain, to the Union, reserving a tract on the S. of Lake 
Erie, as wide as Conn, and 120 M. long, and comprising 4,000,000 acres. Of this 
land 500,000 acres (the “ Fire Lands ”) were granted to the towns which had been 
destroyed during the war (New London, Fairfield, &c.), and ihe remainder of the 
Western Reserve was sold to a real-estate company for S 1,200,000, which sum 
was carefully invested as the school and church lund of Connecticut. 

The village of Litchfield is situated on a broad plateau, 1,100 ft. above 
the sea, and consists mainly of two broad and embowered streets, which 
cross each other at right angles. The hotels and county buildings are 
near the intersection of these avenues, and front on a pretty Green, which 
is adorned by a soldiers' monument. Beneath the words “ Pro Patria ” 
is a list of nearly 60 men of Litchfield, who died in the armies of the 
Union. 3 M. from the village, on the S. W., is Bantam Lake, con¬ 
taining 900 acres, the largest lake in the State, the haunt of many fish, 
and scarcely yet invaded by the factories, which have ruined the charm 
of so many of the New England lakes. Near North St. (to the 1.) is 
Prospect Hill, from which a fascinating * view is offered, embracing the 
wilderness of high hills which surround the plateau and stretch away in 
the W. Bantam Lake is seen, silver-shining between its sinuous shores, 
about a mile distant, and the great elms and old mansions of Litchfield 
are on the plain above it. Near the corner of North St., with the road 
diverging to the hill, was the Beecher mansion, which has been moved 
(1872) to Spring Hill (near the end of N. St.), where it forms a part of 
Dr. Buel’s (private) asylum for the insane. On South St. is the old Wol¬ 
cott Mansion, built about 1760, by Gov. Wolcott (see Windsor), and 


BRIDGEPORT TO WINSTED. 


Route 1 (j. 113 


where was bora Oliver Wolcott, an officer of the Continental Army, Secre¬ 
tary of the U S. Treasury (1795-1800), Gov. of Conn. (1818-27). His 
grand-neice, Miss Alice Wolcott, now dwells there. The leaden statue of 
George III., which stood on the Bowling Green in New York City, was 
brought to this house, and melted into bullets by-the Governor’s daughters. 
Many other solemn old colonial mansions are along the roads, and French 
roofs have not yet invaded this dignified seclusion. This air of antiquity, 
together with the balmy, cool, and salubrious breezes which dwell among 
these hills, have given Litchfield a high place among the restful and un¬ 
fashionable of the summer-resorts. 

Stages run to New Preston from Washington Depot, 4 M , and from New Mil¬ 
ford, 7 M. The Island House, at Bantam Lake, is a comfortable summer-resort. 
Daily stages run 15 M. N. W. to < ornwall Bridge, on the Housatonic Railroad. 

Lake Warramaug, near New Preston, is reached by semi-daily stages (4-5 
M.). It is 15 M. around, and winds among green wooded hills, “ a modified kind of 
Lecco or Como.” Summer-board at $ 8 - 12 a week, at the Loomarnick, Beeman's, 
Hopkins’s, Sherman’s, &c. 

Among the pleasant drives in the vicinity is that to Bantam Lake, with its 
umbrageous groves (2-3 M.) ; to Mount Tom, and to the village of Morris, with 
a quaint old country inn, unchanged since the colonial’days (5-6 M.). From Mt. 
Tom, on a clear day, the Catskill Mts. may be seen, and on the E. the hills beyond 
the Conn. River. 

Litchfield was bought of the colony of Conn, in 1718, for about £300, and was 
settled in 1720. The village was surrounded by a palisade, lest the Indians 
should return in force to their ancient and favorite hunting-grounds of Bantam. 
In 1784, Judge Tapping Reeve (who married Aaron Burr’s sister) established a 
Law School here, and in 1798, James Gould, Judge of the Supreme Court of Conn., 
joined him, and remained 40 years. This was then the most renowned law 
school in America, and 474 lawyers were educated here. The first Young Ladies’ 
Seminary in the Union was established at Litchfield. The town has produced 
many able men, chief among whom are Beecher and Bushnell. Lyman Beecher. 
D. D., “ the father of more brains than any other man in America," was pastor 
here 1810 - 26. Of his many illustrious children, the most famous is 

Henry Ward Beecher, born at Litchfield in 1813. He was educated 
at Lane Seminary (Cincinnati), of which his father was president. From 1837 to 
1S47 lie w r as settled in Indiana, and in the latter year he became pastor of the 
Plymouth Church, in Brooklyn. 

Mrs. Harriet Beecher Stowe, daughter of Lyman Beecher, was born at Litch¬ 
field in 1812, and married Rev. Calvin E. Stowe in 1832. In 1852 she published 
“ Uncle Tom’s Cabin,” an antislavery novel, which sent a thrill throughout the 
republic and the world. She has since published "Dred,” “ Agnes of Sorrento,” 
“ The Pearl of Orr’s Island,” and many charming stories of New England life. 

After leaving Litchfield the train stops at Torrington (founded by 
Gov. Wolcott in 1802), the seat of large woollen-mills, brass-works, and 
manufactories of plated goods. In this town, John Brown, of Ossawa- 
tomie, the invader of Virginia, was born in 1800. Station, Burrville , 
after which the train reaches 

Winsted Beardsley House), a long, narrow vil¬ 

lage between steep hills on the line of Mad River. Iron and steel works 
abound here; pins, scythes, hoes, clocks, and other articles are also 
made. Long Lake , M. long, and Little Bond , lie high on the plateau; 

H 


114 Route 17. 


KENT. 


and Mad River falls 2U0 ft. in 2 M. Winsted has 3 banks, 3 newspapers, 
and 5 churches. It is the home of Rose Terry Cooke,who (article “ Mytown,” 
in “Harper's Magazine,” Yol. 55) highly praises its landscape beauty. 

At Winsted the Naugatuck It. It. forms a junction with the Conn. Western R, R. 
running from Hartford to Millerton on the Harlem R. R. (Route 20). 

17. Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills. 

Via the Ilousatonic R R. in 110 M. (to Pittsfield). Fare, $3.30. 

Shortly after leaving Bridgeport (on Route 8) the line enters the valley 
of the Pequanock, which it follows for 15 M. through a thinly settled 
country abounding in low hills. Stations, Stepney, Botsford, and 

Newtown, ( Dick's Hotel; Grand-Central Hotel), situated on a high 
hill in the midst of Newtown, the Patatuck of the aborigines. It 
is here, according to Beecher, that “the hills first begin to show moun¬ 
tainous symptoms.” At Hawleyville we cross the N. Y. & N. E. Railroad, 
from Boston to Newburgh, and the Shepaug Railroad, from Litchfield (see 
page 112) to Bethel; and from Brookjiela Junction a short railroad runs 
S. W. to Danbury (see page 11G). 

The Shepaug Railroad is 88 M. long. Washington is a beautiful village of 
summer-collages. At New Preston, stages connect for Warramaug Lake (page 113) 
Bantam is close to Bantam Lake. 

Daily stages run trom New Milford 8 M. to Lake Warramaug. 

Beyond Brookfield , the track crosses the Housatonic River and 
stops at New Milford (. New Milford House; Weaminauy Bouse , 150 
guests; summer only), a pretty village near the 

junction of the Housatonic and Aspetuck Rivers, with a wide, verdant 
common, and well-shaded streets. A silver-mine was worked here in 
1790, and much marble and slate lias been quarried in the hills. At pres¬ 
ent, factories for making buttons, boots, hats, and twine sustain the 
place, which is furthermore one of the centres of the tobacco trade in the 
valley. Stations, Merwinsville, and Kent (restaurant in the station ; 
Elmore House). This sweet valley was the home of the Scagliticoke 
Indians, and here the Moravians founded a mission. The cause which 
more than any other forced the Christian tribes of New England to lose 
their identity by miscegenation operated in full strength here. 100 men 
of this tribe joined the Continental Army, and but few of them ever re¬ 
turned. So several negroes and a few poor whites joined the community ; 
and from the combination arose the present representatives of the tribe, 
who plough and plant, wear trousers, go to church, and otherwise are 
such Indians as Massasoit never dreamed of. President Woolsey, of 
Yale College, has spent much time with this fragment of the Scagliti- 
cokes. On a lofty plain near Kent (ascended by a long and arduous 
road) are the Spectacle Ponds, — two lakes surrounded by forests and 
connected by a short strait. From the round hill above the N. Pond the 
fittingness of the name is clear. 


S. NORWALK TO DANBURY. 


Route 18. 115 


The next two stations are in Cornwall, which town was sold 
in 1738 for $ 1,500 (46 square M.), and settled in the same year. It is in 
a double sense the roughest township in the county. S. Cornwall is sit¬ 
uated in a deep valley, and here a Foreign Mission School was founded in 
1810. In 1820 there were 19 Indians and 6 Pacific-Islanders studying at 
the school, and here, in 1818, died Obookiah, the gifted Hawaiian. 

Daily stages run from Cornwall Bridge to Litchfield and Sharon, and from W. 
Cornwall to Goshen and the villages of Cornwall. 

Goshen is a lofty town, in which are 5 ponds, and Ivy Mt. (the highest in the 
State). It is distinguished ior the rich English dairy cheese (a staple of Litch¬ 
field County) which it produces. Here, in 1800, was bom Daniel S. Dickinson, an 
eminent jurist, and senator from New York. 

The train now runs along the narrow valley of the Housatonic with the 
ridge of Sharon on the W. Just beyond that ridge, and extending thence 
to the N. Y. line, is a rich and fertile valley. 

Station, Falls Village (Dudley House). 

The Great Falls of the Housatonic are near the 
village, and form a fine sight, the river plunging over rocky ledges for 60 
ft., with a tremendous roaring. A near scrutiny of the Falls is unad- 
visable, as its vicinity is crowded with squalid Irish shanties, while the 
R. R. repair-shops are situated above them on the site of the Ames 
foundries, which produced some of the heaviest iron fortress-cannon dur¬ 
ing the War of 1861 -65. When President Dwight wrote so enthusiasti¬ 
cally of these Falls (about 1800) they were surrounded by the fitting 
adjuncts of a great primeval forest. 2-3 M. N. W. of the village is 
Mt. Prospect , whose cleared summit is gained by a rude wood-road, and 
affords a view of the broad valley of the Housatonic. At the foot of 
Prospect is a remarkable group of rocks, the darkest, deepest nook of 
which is called the Wolfs Den. W. of the village is the far-viewing 
Gallows Hill, where, according to the tradition, the corpse of a negro was 
once found hanging from a tree, and no one ever knew how he came there, 
or who he was. 

Daily stages to Lime Rock. Station, Canaan (two 

country hotels), a small village situated on the upper edge of the valley 
of the Blackberry River, with the great, ridgy mass of Canaan Mt. on 
the S. 

The Conn. Western R. R. crosses the present route at Canaan, and runs W. 
through the rare scenery of Salisbury (see Route 20). At the next station 
(Ashley Falls), the line enters the County of Berkshire and State of Massachu¬ 
setts. For the remaining 35 M. of this railroad line see the “ Berkshire Hills” 
(Route 23). 

18. S. Norwalk to Danbury. 

Via Danburv and Norwalk R. R- in 24 M. Fare, 90c. Stations, A or- 
ic a Ik, Winnepauk, S. Wll'on Wilton , Cannon's , Georgetown, Bi ancliviiit. 


116 Route 18. S. NORWALK TO DANBURY. 


Ridgefield, on a short branch, is a lovely rural village, and is situated on 
a lofty ridge crowned with ancient trees, and overlooking the Sound. 

During Tryon’s raid into the State (May, 1777), the militia withstood the Hes¬ 
sians behind a barricade in Ridgefield. It cost Tryon 170 men to take the frail 
defence, but Gen. Wooster, the American leader, was mortally wounded. S. G. 
Goodrich was born here in 1703. He wrote 170 books, most of which were under 
the name of “Peter Parley.” Ilis works attained the enormous sale of over 
7,000,00') volumes. His brother, Rev. C. A. Goodrich, and his son, F. 13. Good¬ 
rich (“ Dick Tinto”), have also w r on fame as authors. 

Station, Redding, where Putnam’s rude eloquence quelled the revolt of 
the Conn, line (1779). Joel Barlow, born here in 1755, some time minister 
to France, was author of a fine, but forgotten epic, the “ Columbiad.” 
In 1783 - 86, he was one of the authors of the “ Anarchiad,” in connec¬ 
tion with David Humphreys, Jonathan Trumbull, and Timothy Dwight, 
concerning which transatlantic critics wrote the pasquinade beginning, 

“ Dnvid nnd Jonathan. Joel and Timothy, 

Over the ocean set up the hymn of the —" 

Crossing Bethel (junction of the Shepaug R. R.), the train en¬ 

ters Danbury (Wooster House, Turner House). 

Danbury was “ankle-deep in pork-fat” in May, 1777, when Tryon’s Hessians 
had destroyed the army supplies collected here. It is said that, as the raiders 
were advancing up a hill near by, a reckless farmer rode to its crest and shouted, 
“ Halt, the whole universe, break off by kingdoms ! ” Alarmed at such a formi¬ 
dable force, the Hessians halted, threw' out artillery to the front, and deployed a 
line of skirmishers. In 1764 Robert Sandeman came to Danbury (where he died 
in 1771), and founded a sect on the dogma that “faith is a bare belief in a bare 
truth.” In 1870 there were 20 members of this church in the U. S., and they were 
divided into 2 sects. 

The first American hat-factory was started here in 1780, when Zadoc 
Benedict, with 3 men, made 3 hats a day. Now there are 20 companies 
in the business, with $ 500,000 capital, which make 45,000,000 hats a 
year. 

The city 

has 17,000 inhabitants, 9 churches, 4 banks, a public library, the 

county buildings, and a great school, of which Danbury is justly proud. 
Main St. is 1^ M. long, and from Deer Hill a neat view of the town is 
gained. Lake Kenosha (2M.) is a favorite resort, and is a pretty lake, 
with good boating and fishing. Powerful water-works supply the 
borough. 

Near Danbury is a pretty cemetery of 100 acres, containing a monu¬ 
ment 40 ft. high, erected by the Masons of Conn, to Gen. Wooster. He 
founded the first lodge in the State (Hiram, of New Haven), and was shot 
at the Ridgefield fight. A monument is raised to 67 soldiers (in the Se¬ 
cession War) of Danbury, who are buried elsewhere. 

“ They sleep their last sleep. No sound shall awake th«m 

They have fought their last battle, To glory again.” 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 19. 117 


19. Boston to New York. Norwich Line. 

By the New York and New England R R. (from foot of Summer St.) to Norwich 
and New Loudon, and thence by steamboat. 

After crossing the S. Boston flats the line runs through populous Dor¬ 
chester, Ilvde Park, and Dedham (page 62), with fine views of the Blue 
Hills. It then crosses bright Norwood, the busy town of Walpole (in¬ 
tersecting the Old Colony II. K., N. Div.), and rural Norfolk. 

Franklin ( Hotel Crescent) is a pretty village with a paper, 8 churches, 
a bank, high-school, and public library. It is the seat of the 
richly endowed Dean Academy, whose building cost 8150,000. This town 
contains over 200 farms, and manufactures straw hats, boots, &c. 

A battle with the Indians took place here in 1676; and in 1778 the town was 
named in honor of Benjamin Franklin, to whom (then in Paris)a hint was conveyed 
that a good church-bell would be acceptable in return for this honor. He sent 500 
books (still preserved), observing that the people were probably “ more fond of 
sense than sound.” Nathaniel Emmons, D.D., one of the leaders of the Hopkiu- 
sian school of theology, was pastor here for 54 years (1773 1837). Horace Mann, 
the educationist, A. D. Richardson, the journalist, and Theron Metcalf, the jurist, 
were born at Franklin. A railroad runs S. from Franklin to VV. Wrentham, Cum¬ 
berland, and Providence. Another line runs IV. to Milford ( Milford Hotel), a 
prosperous and attractive manufacturing place 

Stations, Wadsworth , near S. Franklin; Woonsocket Junction , where 
the Woonsocket Division is intersected; Rlackstone , where the Prov. & 
Wor. R. R. is crossed, and whence daily stages run to Slatersville; Mill- 
Mile, and Ironstone, in the picturesque Blackstone valley; E. Douglas 
(axe-factorv), and Douglas ( Dudley's Hotel , over a century old), a land 
of lakes and highlands, with 5 churches, a paper, library, and high-school. 

From E. Thompson station the Webster k Southbridge Branch diverges 
to the N. W. ; runs near the picturesque Lake Chabonakongkomon ; 
crosses the Norwich & Worcester R. It. at Webster ; returns S. W. into 
Connecticut to Quinnebaug and New Boston ; passes IP. Dudley, 2h M. 
W. of the lofty hamlet of Dudley, the seat of the Nichols Academy, in 
a rich farming town ; and terminates at Southbridge, a busy manufactur¬ 
ing village on the Quinnebaug River, with a bank, paper, library, high- 
school, 7 churches, a large French population, and manufactories of cot¬ 
tons, woollens, worsted, muslins, spectacles, shoes, and cutlery. The 
town has 8,000 inhabitants, and its surface is highly diversified. 

Daily stages run to Sturbridare ( Central Hotel), 3^ M. N. W., and FUk- 
dale (Fiskdale House), 2 M. beyond. This town contains 2,200 inhabitants, 3 
churches, a library, a soldiers’ monument ( or 27 dead), and manufactories of cot¬ 
ton and woollen goods and augers. Brimjield (page 130) is 5 M. VV. 

After crossing diagonally the large town of Thompson (much visited in 
summer), the train passes on the rails of the Norwich k Worcester Divis¬ 
ion, at Putnam (a village containing several cotton and woollen factories.) 

\ daily stage runs from Putnam to Woodstock, starting generally late in 
the afternoon 0 Elmwood Hall, at Woodstoc.;, is a tine summer hotel (opening 
June 15) surrounded by pleasant lawns. From this mountain village are obtained 
noble views. <l It is a miniature Mount Holyoke ; and its prospect, the Connec- 


1 1 8 Route 10. BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


tirut Valley in miniature.” Woodstock Lake is a beautiful sheet of water. Near 
by is Henry C. Bowen’s famous estate of Roseland Park; and many pretty sum¬ 
mer villas are in this region The local polo club has a high renown. 

S. W. of Woodstock (passing Crystal Lake on the way) is Ashford, a secluded 
rural town. Here was born Thomas Knowlton, who fought in the six campaigns 
ending in the conquest of Canada, and then in the Havana expedition. He led 
the Ashford minute-men to the lines at Cambridge, and fought with them at 
Bunker Hill. While commanding a light infantry reg. he was killed at its head in 
the battle of Harlem Heights (1776). 

His grand-nephew was the knightly Lyon. Nathaniel Lyon was born at Ash¬ 
ford in 1810. He was engaged in the Florida War, the Mexican War (wounded at 
the Belen Gate of Mexico City), and the Kansas Free-State War. In May, 1861, 
while commanding at St. Louis Arsenal, with a handiul of Regulars and several 
regiments of loyal Missourians, he captured a large rebel camp and army near the 
city. By rapid movements and hard blows, he saved Missouri to the Union, but 
was at last confronted at Wilson’s Creek by a force 4 times as large as his own, 
composed of disloyal Missourians, Arkansians, and Texans. Disdaining to flee, 
he led his little army again and again to the attack, until he was shot dead while 
heading the foremost tiles of a charging regiment. He lelt his fortune ($30,000) 
to the government, to aid in putting down the rebellion, and after a solemn 
triumphal transit across the country his body was laid to rest in the village 
churchyard at Eastiord. 

The people of Ashford were ultra-orthodox in the old days. One day while 
they were whipping a nonchurch-goer on the public Green, a stranger rode up 
and cried, “Men of Ashford, you serve God as if the Devil was in you. Do you 
think you can whip the grace of God into a man? Christ will have none but 
volunteers.” Then he spurred away, leaving the little Inquisition of Ashford 
astounded, confused, and ashamed. 

In 1773, Eliphalet Nott, D. D., the distinguished educator, and President of 
Union College (ISU4-66) for 62 years, was born at Ashford. Galusha A. Grow 
was born at Ashford in 1823. 

Stations, Dayville and Danielsonville, busy villages engaged largely in 
the cotton manufacture (the former turning out 240 miles of fancy cassi- 
meres and 540,000 yards of cotton cloth yearly). These stations are in 
the large town of Killingly, which occupies part of the Indian districts of 
Attawangan and Minnetixit. 

This region is rich in Indian traditions, the most curious of which is attached 
to Mashapaug Lake, 4 M. N. of Daysville, Far back in the ante-colonial days, the 
Indians were accustomed to hold revels on a hill on the site of this lake. But 
once, after a merry-making four days long, the Great Spirit became offended at 
their riotous orgies, and, as he struck out the foundations of the hill, it sank in 
deep waters, carrying down all the assemblage of the feasters. Of all the tribe 
one woman alone was saved on an island which still stands in the lake. On 
still, clear days, a great submerged forest may be seen under the deepest waters. 
A village of the Narragansetts once gave the Nipmucks (who inhabited this dis¬ 
trict) a grand sea-shore feast of clams and fish. The next year they were invited 
into this hill-country to eat venison in the wigwams of the Nipmucks. But a 
quarrel arose during the feast, and the guests from the sea-shore were massacred. 
The Narragansett tribe took action on the matter, and marched a strong force 
into the Nipmuck country, only to receive a severe defeat at the fords of the 
Quinebaug. 

5 M. W. of Dayville is Pomfret which was settled by Roxliury (Mass.) 
people on the rich lands of Mashamoquet, in the year 1687. In Pomfret is the 
Wolf Den, where the intrepid Putnam descended in the darkness, alone, and killed 
a great wolf which had been the terror of the town. 

S. of Pomfret and 4. M. W. of Danielsonville is the pretty village of Brook¬ 
lyn (Putnam House). This is the county-seat of Windham Co., and has a re¬ 
fined and cultivated society, while its broad streets are lined with stately trees 
and fine mansions. The Unitarian Church, on the Green, is the only church of 
that sect in the State, and the building is more than a century old.' 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 19. 119 


Israel Putnam, born at Salem, Mass., in 1718, settled within the present limits 
of Brooklyn in 1739. From 1755 to 1762, he fought in the French wars, and was 
at the capture of Crown Point, Montreal, and Havana. He then returned to 
Brooklyn and remained there until one day, when he was ploughing on his farm, 
the news of the battle of Lexington came down the country. The plough was 
left in the furrow as the old veteran sprang on his fleetest horse and rode toward 
the scene of battle. He raised a regiment in Windham County; was made a 
maj.-gen. in the Continental Army ; and was one of the leaders at the fight on 
Breed’s Hill. He commanded at New York, at Princeton, and in the Hudson 
Highlands, until he was forced to retire from active service on account of his age. 
His old farmhouse still stands. 

Danielsonville is the seat of extensive factories on the water-power 
furnished by the Quinebaug River. Cotton cloth and shoe-making are 
the principal industries. 

Stages run thrice daily to Brooklyn, and other lines run to S. 

Killingly, and Providence (the latter route crosses the State of R. I.). 

Stations, Wauregan (village W. of the station). Quinebaug Pond (3 M. 
long) is a pretty lake, where the “ Narragansetts’ fishing-light ” rises in 
the form of a pillar of fire, at midnight, once in every seven years. Such 
is the old legend, and dwellers in the country-side claim to have seen this 
fiery column blazing over the centre of the pond. The large Wauregan 
Mills (cotton sheetings) are situated in this village. 

Stations, Central Village (with several factories), Plainfield Junction 
(where the line crosses the Providence Division, N. Y. & N. E. R. R.), 
Jewett City, and Greeneville. At the two latter places are large factories. 
The Quinebaug River is crossed at Jewett City, and soon after the train 
passes through a rock-tunnel 300 ft. long. At Norwich the cars run on 
the New London Northern Line, and reach the steamboat wharf at New 
London late in the evening. 

After going on board the steamboat, passengers usually retire, and sleep 
while she moves through the quiet waters of Long Island Sound. Arising 
early in the morning, a fine view is obtained of the eastern environs and 
the city of New York. The boats land at Pier 40, North River, and 
from the next pier runs the ferry to Jersey City, which enters there 
the terminal station of the railroads to Philadelphia and Washington. 

The Boston and Washington Thronvh Line follows thisroute as far as 
Putnam, whence it passes to Willimantic and Hartford, and thence by the N. Y., 
N. H. & Hartford R. R. At Harlem River the trains ate taken on a large ferry- 
steamer, which carries them around New York and lands at the Jersey-City station 
for Philadelphia. Passengers thus avoid the dangers aud extortions formerly ex¬ 
perienced in the transit of New-Yoik City, and are not obliged to change cars. 

The Steamboat Express train leaves Boston at 6.35 p. M., arriving at New Lon¬ 
don at 10.35. The steamer reaches New York at 7 a. m. The steamboat leaves 
New York about 5.30 p. m., aud at 3.35 a. m. reaches New London, whence ex- 
press-train reaches Boston at 7.20 a. m. 

The White Tram, of white-and-gold, parlor, buffet, and dining cars, runs daily 
between Boston and New York, leaving each city at 3 p. m., Sundays included, and 
arriving at 9 p. M. The route is by Franklin, 27} M.; Putnam, t»2 ; Willimantic, 
86; Middletown, 116; New Haven, 110; Bridgeport, 157; S. Norwalk, 171*; to 
New York, 213. A Day Express leaves both Boston and New York at noon, run¬ 
ning by way of Hartford and Meriden, and reaching their destinations at 6.30 p. M. 


120 Route 20. HARTFORD TO SALISBURY. 


Boston to Woonsocket. 

Trains leave the Boston and Albany Station. Distance to Woonsocket, 37£ M. 
Fare, #1.10. 

The line soon diverges from the Albany track, and passes the stations, Brook¬ 
line, Reservoir, and Chestnut Hill (see Route 2). Newton is then entered, a 
large and picturesque town, abounding in suburban villages. In 1646 the Apostle 
Eliot came to the Indian village of Nonantum, in this vicinity, and after a formal 
reception by the aged chief and the medicine-men, be unfolded to them the tenets 
of Christianity. A large part of the tribe accepted his teachings, formed a church, 
and adopted the laws and customs of the colonists. Near Newton Centre, on 
a far-viewing hill, are the buildings pertaining to a Theological Institution of the 
Baptist denomination. This school is in high reputation, and has grown rapidly 
since its foundation in 1825. The course of study covers three years. 

Stations, Newton Highlands, Upper Falls, Highlandville. Upper Falls is a 
manufacturing village where the track crosses the Charles River. At Charles 
River Station the river is again crossed. The line now passes through the towns 
of Dover, Medfield, Medway, and Bellingham, twice crossing the sinuous valley 
of the Charles. Medtield retains the memory of a fierce attack by a swarm of 
Indians led by King Philip, who “rode an elegant horse.” 50 houses were burnt, 
20 of the villagers killed and many made prisoners, but finally the people got an 
old cannon into position and drove off the invaders. John Wilson, Jr., agraduate 
of the first Harvard class, was pastor, physician, and schoolmaster of the village 
from 1651 to 1601. The stations beyond Charles River, are Dover, Medfield, E. 
Medway, Medway, W. Medway, Cary’s, N. Bellingham, Bellingham, E. Blackstone, 
and Woonsocket (see Route 10). At Woonsocket a connection is made with the 
Providence and Worcester Railroad. 


20. Hartford to Salisbury and Poughkeepsie. 

Via the Central New-Euglaud & Western R. R. Distance, 62 M. to Salisbury ; 
115 M. to Poughkeepsie 

After leaving the Union Station at Hartford the line runs N. W. to¬ 
wards the high hills which hound the valley of the Conn. Stations, Cot¬ 
tage Grove, Bloomfield, N. Bloomfield, Tariffville, Hoskins, and Simsbury 
(see Rpute 15). At this point a connection is made with the New Haven 
and Northampton R. R. (Route 15). Stations, Stratton Brook, and New 
Hartford. The latter town was formerly of much importance, being a halt¬ 
ing-place on the great western wagon road, from Hartford and S. E. New 
England to Albany and W. New York. At present it is engaged in the 
manufacture of cotton and steel goods. Stations, Winsted (see Route 16),x 
W. Winsted, Norfolk. This is a pretty village (Norfolk House, $10-12 
a week) with mountains on every side. Before the church is a Green, with 
a monument “ to the memory of soldiers of this towm who died for their 
country in the War of the Rebellion.” The soil of Norfolk is cold, rugged, 
and stony, and it is written that, of the 50 proprietors who bought 
the town in 1742, after inspection of the tract, 49 forfeited their 
claims and the moneys paid on them. Many summer villas have been 
built here of late years. The chief boarding-places are llillhurst (6(1 
guests); Stevens House (75 guests); and Miss E. Gaylords. To the 
top of Haystack is 1£ M., by road. From the hills about are ob¬ 
tained views of the Sheffield Mts. through long lowland vistas. The 


SALISBURY. 


Route 20. 121 


most prominent elevation in the vicinity is the massive Haystack Mt. 
(iootpath to the summit), from which a very extensive prospect is enjoyed, 
stretching from Mt. Everett in Mass, to the Mts. of New York. About 
5 M. irom the village are Camel’s Falls, which are attractive after heavy 
rains. The line now follows the valley of the Blackberry River to its 
junction with the Housatonic, crossing at Canaan Station the Housatonic 
Railroad (Route 17) and River. After passing the stations, Twin Lakes, 
Chapinville, Salisbury, Lakeville, Ore Hill, and State Line, all in the town 
of Salisbury, the line enters the State of New York, and at Millerton 
connects with the Harlem, the Dutchess and Columbia, and the Pough¬ 
keepsie and Eastern Railroads. 


Salisbury. 

“ O, this silence in the air, this silence on the mountains, this silence on the 

lakes.On either side, to the E. and to the W., ever-varying mountain- 

forms frame the horizon. There is a constant succession of hills swelling into 
mountains, and of mountains flowing down into hills. The hues of green in 
trees, in grasses, and in various harvests are endlessly contrasted. At Salisbury 
you come under the shadow of the Taconic Range. Here you may well spend a 
week, for the sake of the rides and the objects of curiosity. 4 M. to the E. are 
the Falls of the Housatonic, called Canaan Falls, very beautiful, and worthy of 
much longer study than they usually get. Prospect Hill, not far from Falls Vil¬ 
lage, affords altogether the most beautiful view of any of the many peaks with 
which this neighborhood abounds.” (This, and the other quotations under Salis¬ 
bury, are from Beecher’s Star Papers). 

Hotels. — Maple Shade; Roclcy-Dell House, at Lime Rock ; Wononsko and 
Lakeville, at Lakeville. 

The road to Falls Village leads for 2 M. down a narrow valley rich in 
grain, and then to the E. over bold spurs of Wolonanchu Mt. with Pros¬ 
pect Mt. on the 1., and rapidly changing views of the Housatonic Valley. 
Or, without crossing Wolonanchu, the road down the valley may be fol¬ 
lowed to the hamlet of Lime Rock and the borders of the Mts. of Sharon. 

A favorite excursion is to the Bald Peak on Mt. Riga. From Salisbury 
to the Mountain Pond on Riga it is 4 M. of easy ascent, most of the way 
along the edge of a ravine filled with resounding, but invisible, cascades. 
A road leads along the plateau to the base of Bald Peak, whence the as¬ 
cent must be made by a rude path. The view from the summit is very 
extensive, embracing on the W. the Oblong, Buck, and Catskill Mts. in 
N. Y., on the S. the wilderness of high hills which form Sharon, on the 
E. Canaan Mt., Rarack MatifT, and the lakes of Salisbury, and on the N. 
Race, Alander, and Everett Mts. in Mass. From the little cluster of 
houses near the pond on Mt. Riga, one can return to Salisbury, via Lake¬ 
ville, by a road over the brow of the hill, or by a slightly longer road 
(8 M.) leading down the side of a water-course with pretty views of the 
lakes, to Ore Hill (4 M.), the centre of the iron-mining industries of the 
town. There are 5 iron-mines in Salisbury, employing 240 men, and sup¬ 
plying metal to the forges, anchor-works, and foundries which abound on 
d 



122 Route 20. 


SALISBURY. 


the streams of N. W. Conn. In April, 1861, the miners of Salisbury 
sent 100 tons of iron to the government, to be made into cannon-balls. 
From Ore Hill (which is within 1^ M. of the New York line) the road lies 
near the railway track, and passes to Lakeville, 2^ M. Irom the mines. 
As the road passes the lakes Wononkapok and Wononscapamuc, pleasant 
views are obtained, and the mts. on the S. rise clearly above their quiet 
waters. Between the road and the latter lake is seen the stately old man¬ 
sion of the Holley family, built by the Governor of that name, and the 
birthplace of Horace Holley, the Unitarian divine, long President of 
Transylvania University, and of 0. L. Holley, the N. Y. lawyer and 
journalist. On the shores >ef the same lake are seen the large white 
buildings of the State Hospital for the Imbecile, where, by skilful treat¬ 
ment, the thought-germs in stricken minds are developed into action, use¬ 
ful instruction is imparted, and many heretofore useless persons are 
elevated, and sent forth as self-sustaining members of society. The Hos¬ 
pital accommodates about 50 patients, and is sit aated on a hill which 
commands line views of the lake and of Indian Mt. After leaving these 
charming lakes, a ride of 1^ M. brings one to Salisbury. Mr. Beecher 
suggests that alter leaving Bald Peak, the road may be taken to Brace 
Mt. and the Dome, “ thence to that grand ravine and its wild water, 
Bash-Bish, —a ride, in all, of about 18 M., and wholly along the moun¬ 
tain-bowl.” 

Bash-Bish Falls (small hotel), near Copake station, 12 M. from Salis¬ 
bury, were called bv Professor Hitchcock “the most remarkable and in- 
teresting gorge and cascade in Massachusetts.” A path leads from the 
Look-off in 5 M. to the peak of Mt. Alandar, 2,200 ft. high, with a magnifi¬ 
cent view. (See page 153.) 

4 M. N. of Salisbury is * “ Sage’s Ravine, which is the antithesis of 
Bash-Bish. Sage’s. Ravine, not without grandeur, has its principal at¬ 
tractions in its beauty ; Bash-Bish, far from destitute of beauty, is yet 
most remarkable for grandeur. Both are solitary, rugged, full of rocks, 
cascades, grand waterfalls, and a savage rudeness tempered to beauty and 
softness by various and abundant mosses, lichens, flowers, and vines. I 
would willingly make the journey once a month from New York to see 
either of them. Just beyond Sage’s Ravine, very beautiful falls may be 
seen after heavy rains, which have been named Norton’s Falls.” The 
way to the ravine leads along the under-mountain road (4 M.). Just 
before reaching a blacksmith’s shop at the bridge over a rill from the hills, 
there is a small hut on the 1., and the field-road turns in alongside, by tak¬ 
ing down bars. It is best to leave horses outside, and, entering the field, 
take the first path to the r. and follow the stream up the ravine. Tf 
principal falls are know as the Low'er, Twin, and Upper Falls (well r 
resented in a series of 12 stereographs). A vague path follows up 
1. side of the water (r. bank), “ which, if you love solitude, wildness. 


SALISBURY. 


Route 20. 123 


Beauty, will be worth all the pains you may take to climb through it. 
One requires a good foot, a strong hand, and a clear head, and then there 
is but little danger,” though the path is soon lost in a perfect chaos of 
rocks. Heavy gloves and boots are necessary, and the ascent is not rec¬ 
ommended for ladies, although several have accomplished it. An obscure 
mountain road leads to the vicinity of the upper end of the ravine, but 
the descent is harder than the ascent. 

From Salisbury, by Sage’s Ravine, N. into Massachusetts, runs the 
under-mountain road, along the foot of the Taconic Range, to Sheffield and 
the Berkshire Hills. From the ravine to Salisbury, visitors sometimes 
return by way of the Twin Lakes, a longer but pleasanter route. 

The * Twin Lakes are gained from Salisbury by a road passing along 
the low spurs of Rarack Matiff Mt., with the isolated mass of Lion’s Head 
on the W. The beautiful lakes of Washining and Washinee are soon 
reached, and the high hills in the vicinity (Tom’s Mt., Boar Mt.) are seen 
mirrored in them. Near the S. shore of Washinee a road diverges to the 
1. through the thick pines, to a remarkable cave. This was but lately 
discovered by a hunting dog chasing a small animal into it, and the 
hunters, uneasy at his long absence, tore away the debris from the hole 
and entered. At a hut near the cave, where the keys are kept, visitors 
can get appropriate clothing, lights, and refreshments. The main cavern 
has been explored for about 700 ft., and its course trends steadily down¬ 
ward. The curious forms assumed by stalagmites are well shown here. 
In one place a stone lady is seen, facing the wall; in another, vast num¬ 
bers of stalactitic candles depend from the roof; and numerous other 
marvels are found by imaginative visitors. The village and station of 
Chapinsville is situated near the lakes. Mr. Beecher speaks of the lake 
rides as “ extremely beautiful. But they should always be afternoon 
rides ; for these discreet lakes do not choose to give out their full charms 
except at about an hour before sunset.” 

Rides are taken from Salisbury through the romantic hills of Cornwall 
and Sharon, and even as far as Great Barrington (N.), and Litchfield 
(S. E.). 

Salisbury was first settled by the Dutch in 1720, who lived in peace with the 
Indian tribe who held the valley and of whom no relic remains save the quaint 
names which they gave to lakes and Mts. This was the farthest advance of the 
timid Hollanders on that Alpine land (the present Mass., Conn., and Vt.), which 
was portrayed on their maps by a blank white space (as Greenland is on our maps), 
inscribed with the cool word “ Winterberg.” The word “ Ilousatonic ” has given 
rise to more controversy among antiquarians and philologists than almost any other 
Indian word, and one good authority removes it from an aboriginal derivation, 
md claims that it is a euphonic change of “Westenhok” (Western corner or 
A»ok), the name given to the Dutch settlement here as being in a western nook of 
■ rugged hills which stretch away E. toward the Conn. River. But in 1740 the 
ess^Anglo-American wave of advance reached this point. There are no Dutch 

idians there now. Bear Mountain , in Salisbury, is 2,354 it. high. 

# 


K , 


124 Route 21. 


NEWTON.—NATICK. 


21. Boston to New York. 

The Springfield Route. There are four through express trains daily in 6 to 
hours. Distance, 236 M. ; fare, $6.00. This is one of the most popular and 
pleasant of the railway routes to New York, passing through the large cities of 
Worcester, Springfield, and Hartford, and following the rich valley of the Connec¬ 
ticut for a great distance. Trains leave Boston and New York at 9 and 11 A. M., 
arriving in either city at 3.30 and 5.30 p m. These trains have buffet and draw¬ 
ing-room cars. The trains leaving each city at 4 p. m. (and arriving at 10) have 
dining-room cars. Sleeping-cars on the night-trains. The cars are lighted by gas 
and heated by steam. 

The train leaves the terminal depot in Boston (corner of South and 
Kneeland Streets), and passes out over the Back Bay lands. Charles 
River is approached on the r., and a fine view is given of the compact and 
more ancient parts of Boston, crowned by the State House dome. Beyond 
the city, and apparently at the end of the lake-like widenings of the river, 
the populous heights of Charlestown are seen, while Cambridge lifts her 
spires on the nearer western shores. The line crosses the town of Brook¬ 
line, studded with pretty suburban villages, and stops at Brighton (Cattle 
Fair Hotel), celebrated for its great cattle-market. The stock-trains on 
this railroad bring immense numbers of cattle, sheep, and swine from 
the West, which are here made into beef, mutton, and pork, for the daily 
needs of Boston. The sheds, yards, and pens cover many acres, and the 
business has been increasing for scores of years. As far back as 1837, the 
yearly sales were $2,500,000. N. of the station is seen the tower on Mt. 
Auburn, and the U. S. Arsenal at Watertown, on the other bank of the 
Charles. Newton is next entered, a wealthy suburban city (valuation, 
$ 18,000,000), with a population of 25,000. Newton Corner is near the 
ancient Nonantum Hill, where the Apostle Eliot first preached to the 
Indians (probably the present Mt. Ida, from which a pleasant view is 
obtained). This village has a public library in an elegant and costly stone 
building, and three or four churches. From this point to Waltham it is 
3-4 M., to the Watertown Arsenal and Mt. Auburn, 2-3 M., and to the 
Baptist Theological Seminary at Newton Centre, 2-3 M. S. The line 
now passes Newtonville (1J M. N. of Grove Hill Cemetery), W. Newton 
(2 M. S. of the Watch Factory at Waltham), and Auburndale (the seat of 
the Laselle Female Seminary). These villages are all in 
Newton. From Riverside Station, a branch track runs S. to the manu¬ 
factories at Newton Lower Falls. Stations, Grantville (a factory and 
residence village), and Wellesley, a picturesque suburban village, near 
Lake Waban, the * Hotel Wellesley (summer-board), and the famous 
Wellesley College (which is seen on the 1.). 

Natick ( Wilson House) is a shoemaking town of 10.000 in¬ 

habitants, near the Charles River. A branch-line runs N. W. 4 M. to 
Saxonville, the seat of blanket and worsted-vam mills, on the Sudburv 
River, near Nobscot. Hill. S. Natick (Bailey’s Hotel), 2 M. by stage from 
Wellesley, is a lovely village near the Regan Hill, on the Charles River, 
with 3 churches, Eliot’s oak, and an Indian cemetery. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 21. 125 


In 1651 the Christian tribe of Nonantum, which had embraced the faith after 
the preaching of Eliot, removed to Natick, where they formed a government 
based on the 18th chapter of Exodus, with rulers of hundreds, of fifties, and of 
tens. Their village consisted of three streets lined with gardens and huts, a 
building for a church and school, a large circular fort, and a bridge over the river. 
The Bible was translated into then language by Eliot, and published at Cam¬ 
bridge in 1663 (second edition in 1685), whose title-page read as follows: 
“ Mamusse Wunneetupanatainwe Up Bidlum God Naneeswe Nukkone Testament 
Kah Work Wusku Testament.” But despite the tender care of the colony, the 
Indian chnrch and tribe suffered the usual fate of inferior races in the presence of 
Anglo-Americans, and died out from the operation of internal causes. 

Just N. of Natick, across the track, and visible from the train soon 
after leaving the station, is Cochituate Lake, from which the water supply 
of Boston is carried to that city by a long and sinuous aqueduct. 

S. Framingham ( S . Framingham Hotel) has three straw-hat factories 
and the villas of several Bostonians; and is near the great Methodist 
camp-meeting ground, the Sunday-school assembly (‘‘The Chautauqua 
of New England”), and the fort and camp-ground annually occupied by 
the brigades of Mass, militia. The ancient elm-shaded village of Fra¬ 
mingham (Central House) is 2J-3 M. N., with its fine memorial 
hall and library and 2 churches. On Bear Hill is the State Normal School. 

A railway runs hence S. W. 12 M. across the shoemaking hill-town of Holliston 
(Ilollis House), to Milford ( Mansion House), a handsome shoe-manufacturing 
village, on high ground. The town has 11,000 inhabitants, and produces much 
milk, fruit, and market-produce. Semi-daily stages ruu l£ M. S. W. to Hopedale, 
a hamlet of 600 inhabitants, in a lovely valley, with the cotton-machinery works of 
George Draper & Sons. Semi-daily stages run 3 M S. W. from Milford to Mendon 
( Adams House), a picturesque hill-town devoted to farming, near 

the pretty Nipmuck Pond. R. It. from Milford to Boston in IT hr., see page 117 ; 
also to Ashland, 12 M. N. 

The Lowell Division runs from S. Framingham to Lowell, 28 M. N. Stations, 
Framingham and Sudbury. Sudbury was settled in 1638, and in 1676 was 
the scene of a bloody contest, when 70 men, marching to relieve Marlboro’, 
were ambushed here by Indians. 26 of the colonists were killed on the field, 
and the remainder were captured, and many of them were put to death by ter¬ 
rible tortures. A monument to their memory was erected on the field, by President 
Wadsworth, of Harvard College, whose father was captain of the defeated party. 

In Sudbury was a famous old tavern in the colonial days, which, during the 
march of the western counties’ militia on Boston, was a busy place. This is the 
“ Wayside Inn ” of Longfellow’s poems, the purer, fairer Canterbury Tales of 
American literature : — 

“ As ancient is this hostelry 
As any in the land may be. 

Built in the old Colonial day, 

When men lived in a grander way, 

With ampler hospitality. 

A region of repose it seems, 

A place of slumber and of dreams, 

Remote among the wooded hills.” 

The characters represented among the story-tellers “around the fireside at 
their ease” were as follows : The Landlord, “grave in his aspect and attire,” was 
Squire Lyman Howe, of Sudbury. The 

“ Student of old books and ways. 

With tales of Flores and Blanchefleur 
Sir Ferumbras, Sir Eglainour,'’ 

was young Henry Wales. The young Sicilian, 


12G Route 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


“ In sight of Etna bred and born,” 

was Luigi Monti, American consul at Palermo. The “Theologian, from thf 
school of Cambridge on the Charles," was Prof. Treadwell, of Harvard. The 
Poet was T. W. Parsons, of Boston, translator of Dante’s “ Inferno,” and author 
of many short poems. The “blue-eyed Norseman,” who bore the Stradivarius 
violin, “ a miracle of the lutist’s art,” and sang the Saga of King Olaf, was Ole 
Bull. The inn still stands, 2 M. W. of Sudbury proper. 

beyond Sudbury is Concord Junction , where the Fitchburg Railroad crosses 
th* present route Station, Acton (see page 410), whence marched a company 
of minute-men, who were among the first engaged at the battle of Concord. Their 
captain was killed at the fight by the bridge. The line crosses the towns of Car¬ 
lisle and Chelmsford, and stops at Lowell. 

Another division of this railroad runs from S. Framingham to Fitchburg. Sta¬ 
tion, Framingham Centre, built around a level Green, in a large farming town. 
The great tide of travel between Boston and the West formerly passed through 
this village, which then had a famous inn. The town hall, old church, and 
Academy (founded 1792) front on the Green. The line now passes across the 
farming town of South boro’, and enters fair and fertile Marlboro’. This was the 
site of the Christian Indian village of Okonmiakamesitt, and was colonized by 
Sudbury people in 1655. Its first pastor (1666- 1701) “ uniformly refused baptism 
to children born on the Sabbath.” At Marlboro’ the present route connects with 
a branch of the Fitchburg Railroad. Northboro’ is the next town, and is devoted 
to farming and cattle-raising. The village churchyard contains the grave of the 
Rabbi Judah Monis, who renounced Judaism in favor of Christianity in 1722, and 
became teacher of Hebrew at Harvard College, where he remained till his death 
in 1761. The train crosses the Assabet River E. of the station, and then passes 
on through the town of Berlin to Clinton (Clinton House), a busy village at the 
junction of the Worcester and Nashua Railroad. At Pratt’s Junction the Fitch¬ 
burg and Worcester Railroad is crossed, and the train runs across Leominster, 
with occasional views of Wachusett Mountain on the W. The central village of 
Leominster is finely situated. Soon after leaving this station the train reaches 
Fitchburg. 

From S. Framingham the main line follows the Sudbury River, which 
it often approaches and once or twice crosses. Stations, Ashland (Cen¬ 
tral House), Cordaville, Southville, and Westboro’ (Whitney House). 
This is the seat of the State Reform School and a large water-cure estab¬ 
lishment. 3| M. S. E. of the station are the Hopkinton Springs (small 
hotel) near the large and handsome Whitehall Pond, abounding in fish. 
There are three springs, all different, and carbonate of lime and iron are 
the chief ingredients. This was formerly a fashionable resort, and is on 
the old Indian domain of Maguncook. 

Station, Grafton (the Indian Hassanamesit), with 3 small hotels, on a 
reservation of 4 M. square, given by the colony to a tribe of Christian 
Indians. Shrewsbury is a town just N. of the track, where was born 
Artemas Ward, major of the 8th Mass. Reg. at the siege of Louisbourg 
(1758), and commander of the army besieging Boston until the arrival of 
Washington. Levi Pease was born here, who started the first line of 
mail stages between Boston and New York (1784), previous to which a 
fortnightly mail was borne between the two places, in saddle-bags. 

Beyond Millbury (near New-England Village, and with a branch to 
Millbury Village, 3 M.), the line runs N. by Lake Quinsigamond, a deep 
and narrow loch, 4 INI. long, with 12 islands, boat-houses, villas, restau¬ 
rants, summer-cottages, &c. Its hotels are the Island House and th« 


WORCESTER. 


Route 21. 127 


Hotel Evrie. Dummy cars and omnibuses run hither several times daily 
from Worcester; and small steamboats run hourly to the Eyrie, King’? 
Point (small hotel), the Narrows, Quinsigamond Park, and Holden’s Grove, 

Worcester. 

Hotels. —Bay-State House, §2.50, corner of Main and Exchange Sts.; Lincoln 
House, §2.50, Elm St.; Waldo House, Waldo St.; Waver ley ; 

Horse-cars on Main St., from Webster Square to Adams Square, on Lincoln 
St. ; and on Front St. to the Union Railroad Station. 

Hacks, 50 cts. each passenger within the mile circle. Herdics run regularly on 
Main, Front, and Pleasant Sts., &c. 

Stages to Quinsigamond, S. Worcester, Shrewsbury (5 M.), 

Leicester (6 M.), and Paxton (8 M.), Ooldbrook, and Barre. 

Kailroails, to Providence (Route 10), Norwich, Nashua (Route 13), Albany 
(Route 22), Barre, Gardner, Fitchburg, Boston, and Lake Quinsigamond. 

Worcester, the second city in wealth and population in the Common¬ 
wealth, and the capital of Worcester County, is situated among a group 
of hills on the Blackstone River. Its manufacturing interests have risen 
rapidly to a commanding position, being favored by the central location 
of the city, and the large railroad system converging there. The popula¬ 
tion is over 85,000. There are 46 churches, and 5 societies of Irish, 3 of 
Germans, 2 of French-Canadians, and others of English and Swedes. 

Worcester claims the name of an academic city, in virtue of its numer¬ 
ous fine schools. Its Classical and English High School employs 4 mas¬ 
ters and 5 assistants, and has a noble building, which is surmounted by a 
graceful tower terminating in a spire. This tower is a copy of one of 
the best European campaniles, but is unfortunately too slender in com¬ 
parison with the heavy mass of the building. Near Main St. on the S. 
is the celebrated Oread Seminary in picturesque stone 

buildings located on a hill and surrounded by trees. The castle-like 
structure, with embattled towers, on a commanding hill S. E. of the city 
was built for a Medical School, but is now used as an academy under the 
care of the Baptist Church. The Roman Catholic College of the Holy 
Cross occupies an extensive range of imposing buildings on Packachoag 
Hill, 2 M. S. of the city, and is well attended by the youth of that church 
from all parts of New England. A State Normal School occupies a hill 
E. of Lincoln Square, and across the valley to the W. are the buildings 
of the Free Institute of Industrial Science, with lectures, laboratories, 
machine-shops, and all appliances for learning young men to be practical 
architects, carpenters, engineers, chemists, civil engineers, &c. “ The 

ultimate end of this institution is the elevation of the mechanic by giv¬ 
ing him thorough and complete scientific knowledge on which he may 
base his future work.” The school is richly endowed, and is free to 
young men of this county (others pay § 100 a year). Boynton Hall (named 
in honor of the founder of the school) is a graceful and ornate stone build¬ 
ing. H M. N. of Worcester is the Highland Military School, widely 
known for the stringent thoroughness of its discipline. 


128 Route 21. 


WORCESTER. 


The State Lunatic Asylum, on Millstone Hill, overlooking Lake Quin- 
Bigainond, cost $ 1,350,000, and is an imposing, pile of granite buildings, 
en echelon , with a high tower. It accommodates 700 patients. The State 
Asylum for the Chronic Insane holds 400 more. Hope Cemetery and 
Rural Cemetery are attractive burial-grounds. The Plymouth Church 
(Pearl St.) and St. Paul’s Catholic Church are stately granite buildings. 

There is a chime of ten Troy bells in Plymouth-Church tower. All-Saints (Epis.), 
on Irving St., is the handsomest church in the city, a perfect gem in brownstone. 
George Bancroft was born in a house now standing on Salisbury St. The City 
Hospital , on a hill to the W. of the city, is an imposing brick building. 

Main St. is about 2 M. long, and contains the principal business houses 
and hotels. It is a wide, pleasant street, well lined with tre-es, and adorned 
with some fine commercial buildings. Near its lower end the Jesuit Col¬ 
lege is seen across a broad valley. The Common contains the Old South 
Church, the City Ilall, and the Soldiers’ and Bigelow Monuments, while four 
other churches are seen on its sides. Passing N. on Main St. many fine 
business blocks are seen, with St. Paul’s Catholic Church, Trinity M. E. 
Church, the towers of the High School, and numerous tall spires on the 
hills to the 1. On the r. is Mechanics’ Hall, a fine audience-chamber 
seating 2,500, with a brown-stone front in rich Corinthian architecture. 
On side-streets diverging to the 1. in this vicinity are the Post-Office, 
* Episcopal Church, the Agric. Hall, Elm Park, and the Free Library (Elm 
St.). The latter contains 00,000 volumes, being especially rich in mechan¬ 
ics and medical works, while its reading-room (open from 9 A. M. until 
9 P. M.) has 243 different magazines and papers, in 4 languages. On 
Foster St. are the rooms of the Natural History Society with valuable 
cabinets (open Wednesday afternoons), and the library (8,000 vols.) and 
collections of the Society of Antiquity. On Main St. beyond Mechanics’ 
Hall and the Bay State House, is the old Exchange Hotel, a famous inn 
of the colonial days, where Washington and Lafayette have stopped. 
Just beyond is Lincoln Square, where, on a high terrace, are seen the 
First Unitarian Church, the granite Court House with its classic front, 
and the neat building of the * American Antiquarian Society. 

In the latter structure is preserved a valuable library of 80,000 volumes, with 
ancient portraits of Samuel, Increase, and Cotton Mather and other Puritan 
divines ; Governors Wintlirop, Endicott, and other founders of the State. Many 
busts adorn the walls, and there are large casts of Michael Angelo’s Moses, and 
Christ (bought in Rome by Hon. Stephen Salisbury). In glass cases about the 
hall are several literary curiosities, ancient black-letter MSS on vellum (15tli 
century); an elegant Persian MS. richly illuminated (date, 1480); 3 British tax- 
stamps of 1763 ; MS. sermons of microscopic fineness written by old Puritan 
pastors ; Latin books printed at Rome and Venice in 1475-6; Cranmer’s Bible 
(1538); Ptolemy’s Geography ; missals on vellum ; and a superb * Koran in Arabic, 
brilliantly illuminated. Two cases of Indian relics are near the entrance to the 
hall. This collection is open, 9-12, and 2-5 o’clock daily, except Saturday and 
Sunday. From the hill behind the building, the Free Industrial School and the 
Normal School may be seen. 

On the Common, near the Old South Church, is a pretty English Gothic 


WORCESTER. 


Route 21. 129 


monument, built of granite and Tuscan marble, over the remains of 
Timothy Bigelow, Colonel of the 15th Mass. Continental Regiment. At 
the N. E. corner is the * Soldiers’ Monument, which was designed by 
Randolph Rogers, and consists of a tall Corinthian column, surmounted 
by a statue of Victory, standing on a globe, with a drawn sword in her 
uplifted hand. Around the column are colossal bronze statues (cast at 
Munich) representing soldiers of the American infantry, cavalry, artil¬ 
lery, and marine service. 

The Union Railroad Station is an imposing granite building, 514 ft. 
long and 256 ft. wide, with a graceful stone clock-tower 200 ft. high. It 
contains a restaurant, waiting-rooms, news-stand, etc. From this station 
start the trains of the Boston & Albany, Norwich & Worcester, Provi¬ 
dence & Worcester, Worcester & Nashua, and Boston, Barre & Gardner 
Railroads. 

In 1669 a legislative committee located a settlement for 30 families at Worces¬ 
ter (Saxon, Wegera, Ceaster , War-Castle), as a half-way halting-place between the 
valley-towns and the coast. The citadel of this colony was near the present 
corner of Main and Columbia Streets. The Indians soon forced the evacuation 
of the settlement, and it lay desolate from 1702 to 1713, when it was reoccupied, 
and stern defensive laws were passed. A fortress-like church was built (on the 
Common), and each man was ordered to carry to Sunday services his musket and 
6 rounds of ammunition. In 1720 some Scotch Presbyterian immigrants built a 
church of their own, which was assaulted and torn down by the Puritan colonists 
as a cradle of heresy. In 1755 numerous exiled Acadians were sent here, and soon 
after the “ Massachusetts Spy ” newspaper (still published there) began to fan the 
flames of revolution. April 19, 1775, a breathless messenger bore into town, 
the news of the battle of Lexington. His white horse, flecked with blood and 
foam, fell dead on Main St., but he rode westward on another, while the minute- 
men moved on Boston by thousands. In July, 1776, the Sons of Freedom had a 
grand feast, and among their toasts were, “ May the freedom and independence 
of America endure till the sun grows dim with age, and this earth returns to 
chaos.” “ Perpetual itching without the benefit of scratching, to the enemies of 
America.” The town sent 27 officers and 409 men to the army. In 1786, Worcester 
was taken, and its courts closed by 800 of Shays’ insurgents, wearing the emble¬ 
matic pine-branch. Father Fitton, on a missionary tour in 1834, found four 
Catholic families in Worcester: that denomination now has six churches in the 
city, including Notre Dame des Canadiens. The population in 1830 was 4,082. In 
1861, at the very hour when the 6th Mass, was fighting in the streets of Baltimore, 
the Bigelow Monument was dedicated here. Said Judge Thomas at the dedica¬ 
tion, “ The cry to-day in the streets of this beautiful city is that which 86 years 

ago startled the quiet village, ‘ To arms ! ’ So be it, to arms !.It will cost 

us a long, severe, and bitter struggle, but this rebellion must be crushed out. 
There is for us no hope of freedom, of peace, of safety even, till this work is fully 
done. Seven years of war were spent in the purchase of our freedom ; seven more 
of toil in giving it organic life. If seven years of toil and blood are spent in 
securing it, in our national redemption, they will be wisely, divinely spent, 
with the blessing of God and all coming generations of men.” Within five months 
5,000 men marched from the Park to the Potomac. The 15th Mass. (Worcester Co.) 
Reg. paraded here before leaving, and received their colors from the ladies. “ I 
am deputed by the ladies of Worcester to present to you this banner. Eighty- 
four years ago to-day there was mustering in these streets the first regiment ever 
raised in Worcester Co. for actual warfare, the 15th Reg. of the Mass. Line. What 
hard-fought fields at Monmouth and Trenton, what sufferings at Valley Forge, 
what glory and victory at Saratoga and Yorktown, have made that name famous ! 

. , . What they won for us, it is yours to preserve for us.” — Judgr Hoar. 



130 Route 21. 


BROOKFIELD. 


After leaving Worcester the line soon passes Growl Hill (on the r.) and 
reaches Rochdale (Union Hotel), 4 M. S. of Leicester, a beautiful ham¬ 
let on Strawberry Hill, in a farming town of 2,770 inhabitants, with 8 
churches, a memorial hall, academy, and librarj\ Charlton is 3 M .N. of 
Charlton Centre (Bellevue House), a lofty and far-viewing village, near 
the romantic Bay Path and under Muggett Hill, whence 19 villages and 
parts of 4 States are seen. Spencer is 2 M. S. of Spencer Centre 
(Spencer Hotel), a large and pretty village with a library, paper, large 
town-hall, and 4 churches. Here was born Elias Howe, Jr., who invented 
the sewing-machine. A railway leads from Spencer to Spencer Centre. 

From E. Brookfield ( Crystal House , on Lake Lashawav) a branch runs 
to N. Brookfield (Central House), a large shoemaking village in a rich 
farming town. 

Brookfield ( Brookfield House) is a well-to-do shoemaking village. 

This town was settled on the Indian lands of Quaboag, by Ipswich men, in 
1660. In 1675 a large force of Nipmucks advanced on the place. Envoys were 
sent out to treat with the Indians, but six of them were killed, and the village 
(the present W. Brookfield) was attacked. The inhabitants had gathered in a 
garrison-house, which, after the rest of the village had been plundered and burnt, 
was attacked by the enemy. For three long days the house was defended with 
desperate bravery, though shot and flaming arrows were showered against it. 
Then a cart full of blazing flax and straw was pushed against it, and the defence 
would have been ended, but for a sudden shower which extinguished the rising 
flames. After this shower, which they held to be miraculous, a brave partisan 
officer with a troop of light horse galloped in from Lancaster, after a forced 
inarch of 30 M., and scattered the besiegers. In 1676, the evacuation of the 
town was ordered, as a military necessity, by the Legislature, and it remained 
desolate for 12 years. The Quaboag Pond is a large pond S. of the village, whose 
waters flow by the Sashaway River through the Podunk Meadows, to the Chico¬ 
pee. 

W. Brookfield ( Wickaboag House) produces apples and boots. Lucy 
Stone and Austin Phelps were born here. Semi-daily stage, 6 M. N. to 
Hew Braintree (New-Braintree House). Stations, Warren ( Warren 
Hotel), a. pretty manufacturing village, among rounded hills; W. Warren 
(W. Warren House), with a large cotton-factory; W. Brimfield. 

In the Brimfield churchyard (5-6 M. to the S. E.) is buried Gen. William 
Eaton, some time an officer in the U. S. Army, and then Consul to Tunis. In 
1805 he planned the restoration of Hamet, the rightful Bashaw of Tripoli, and 
marched from Cairo, Egypt, with 400 Moslems and 100 Christians, across the 
desert. With reckless bravery he stormed the ramparts of the Tripolitan city of 
Derne, garrisoned by a force larger than his own. The United States having con¬ 
cluded a peace with the reigning Bashaw, Eaton was forced to abandon his 
conquest, and he returned to America, where he died (at Brimfield) in 1811. 

At Palmer (Nassowanno House) the Ware-River and New-London 
Northern Railroads meet the present route. To the S. is seen the State 
Primary School, in Monson. Station, Wilbraham ( Allis House), 2 M. 
from Wilbraham Centre, the seat of the great Wesleyan Academy. This 
town is famous for its beautiful scenery; and it has 1,028 inhabitants, 
0 churches, and woollen and paper mills. From Indian-Orchard station 
horse-cars vun N. W. to the village of the same name. 


SPRINGFIELD. 


Route 21. 131 


Hotels. — * Haynes’ Hotel, a large first class house at the centre of the city 
(•52.50- $3.50 a day); * Massasoit House, alongside of the station ($ 3 50 - 5 4 a day); 
Hotel Warwick, just N. of station ($ 2-5 2 50 a day); Cooley’s Hotel ($ 2 a day). 

Reading-rooms. — City Library, State St. (with museum); Y. M. C. A-, Main 
St. Amusements at the Opera House, Main St. ; Roller Skating-rink, Bridge St. 

^ Railroads. — The Boston and Albany, to Boston 98 M., to Albany 104 M. ; the 
New York, New Haven, and Hartford, to Hartford 26 M., New Haven 62 M., New 
York 136 M. ; the Conn River, to Greenfield 36 M., and to the North ; the Athol 
Branch, to Athol in 481 M. ; N. Y. & N. E. R. R., to Hartford .31 M. These lines 
meet at the large central station. Horse-cars run on Main St., and to the 
Armory and Water-Shops. Also, to Brightwood and Mill River (South End). 

Spriugfield was settled by a company under William Pynchon, in 1636, whose 
compact began as follows : “Article I. Wee intend, by God’s grace, as soon as 
wee can, with all convenient speede, to procure some godly and faithfull minister, 
with wliome wee propose to joyne in church covenant to walk in all the ways of 
Christ. Article 11. Wee intend that our town shall be composed of fourty family’s, 
or if wee think meete after to change our purpose ; yet not to exceed the number 
of fifty family’s, rich and poore.” The town would have been abandoned at one 
time but for the orders of the Legislature, forbidding the evacuation of Mass, 
settlements, whereupon the people erected a strong palisade. Great suffering 
was experienced during the first winter, for the freezing of the river prevented 
vessels ascending with supplies. Several persons started for Boston, and were 
frozen on the way. Pynchon, the magistrate of Springfield, wrote an anti-Calvin- 
istic theological book in 1650, which was condemned by the Legislature and burnt 
on Boston Common. He was deposed from his office, was forced, amid a storm 
of clerical wrath, to retract, and soon returned to England to escape persecution. 
In 1675, while the train-bands of Springfield were guarding Hadley, the Indians 
laid a plot to destroy the place. Their plan was exposed by a friendly Indian 
at Windsor, whence a rider was despatched, who reached Springfield at dead of 
night, and aroused the people. Just as they had gained the shelter of three gar¬ 
rison-houses, 600 Indians entered the streets and burnt every other house in town. 
They successfully disputed the passage of the river against Major Treat’s com¬ 
mand, and only retired at the approach of Major Pynchon and 200 men from Had¬ 
ley, leaving behind them a sad scene of ruin and destruction. During the Revo¬ 
lution works for repairing muskets were established here, and also a cannon- 
foundry, at which were cast the guns of several of the batteries which were en¬ 
gaged in the battles near Saratoga. Jan. 25,1787, 1,200 of Shays’ rebels attacked 
the Arsenal, which was defended by 1,100 militiamen. A few cannon-shot dis¬ 
persed the assailants. During the present century Springfield has grown rapidly, 
by reason of the establishment here of the U. S. Armory and numerous other 
manufactures, and by the convergence, at this point, of important railway systems. 

Springfield is a handsome city of over 45,000 inhabitants, situated on 
the E. bank of the Connecticut River. Its principal thoroughfare is Main 
St., a wide and level street, 3 M. long, adorned with many fine commer¬ 
cial buildings. The principal object of interest in the city is the 
* United States Armory, which is established on a park of 72 acres on 
Armory Hill (E. of the station, and best reached byway of State St.) 
The buildings surround a great quadrangle called Armory Square, and 400 
men are constantly engaged making and repairing Springfield rifles and 
carbines, and experimental arms. The work is paid for by the piece, and 
the day of labor is 8 hrs. During the War of the Rebellion the works 
were run night and day for four years, and at one time over 3,000 men 
were employed. Nearly 800,000 guns were made during that time, at an 
expense of $ 12,000,000. The Arsenal is a large building on the W. of 
the quadrangle, in which 175,000 stand of arms are stored, rivalling in 
their symmetrical arrangement the similar collection in the Tower of 
London. 


132 Route 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


“ This is the Arsenal. From floor to ceiling. 

Like a huge organ, rise the burnished arms ; 

But from their silent pipes no anthem pealing 
Startles the villages with strange alarms. 

Ah! what a sound will rise — how wild and dreary — 

When the death-angel touches those swift keysf 

What loud lament and dismal Miserere 
Will mingle with their awful symphonies I" 

Longfellow. 

From the tower of the Arsenal is gained a fine view of the city and its 
environs. Passes for a survey of the shops, &c., may be obtained at the 
Armory office. 1 M. S. E. are the Water-Shops. 

State St. and the vicinity of Winchester Park, Maple St., and Crescent 
Hill furnish pleasant drives among elegant villas, and afford extensive 
views of the charming valley. On Maple St. is the main entrance to the 
beautiful Springfield Cemetery , covering 40 acres; and by Holland’s “Bay 
Path,” the present Bay St., is reached the new Oak-Grove Cemetery of 
90 acres, finely laid out. On Court Square is a heroic bronze statue of 
Miles Morgan, one of the early Puritan settlers of Springfield. 

On State St., between Main St. and the Armory grounds, are several fine 
buildings. The * Church of the Unity (on the r.) is one of the noblest 
ecclesiastical structures in the State, and, with its cloistered portico, broad 
windows, and lofty detached tower and spire, it forms a strikingly beauti¬ 
ful object. Its architecture is Gothic, and its material is brown stone. 
Just above the church is the unique and graceful building of the High 
School, and opposite the church is the *City Library, with its handsome 
building. A library of 70,000 volumes is contained in a richly ornamented 
and well-arranged hall, while on the floor below is a Museum (open 
Wednesday and Saturday, 2-5 P. M.) containing 900 stuffed birds, 120 
stuffed quadrupeds, and several thousand specimens of fossils, fish, reptiles, 
and minerals. There are also cabinets of Indian antiquities, and many 
interesting historical relics. Just above the Library is the Roman Catholic 
Cathedral of St. Michael. Court Square is near the centre of the city, 
and has on one side the City Hall, containing a hall which can contain 
3,000 persons. S. of Court Square is the * Court House of Hampden 
County, a massive new structure of granite, costing $200,000. It has a 
tall tower, balconies, and other features drawn from Italian municipal 
palaces. The 1st Congregational Church (society founded 1637) fronts 
on this square. In 1 M from the City Hall, passing N. W. on the busy 
and attractive Main St., one reaches Round Hill and the Memorial Church, 
built of granite in Gothic architecture. Hampden Park, near by, on the 
banks of the river, has fine race-tracks, and is used for fairs. 

* Christ Church (Epis.) is a beautiful stone building in Norman-Gothic 
architecture, on Chestnut St., W. of the City Library. The city contains 
30 churches, 4 daily and 8 weekly papers, 9 banks and 4 savings-banks, 
and 9 Masonic societies. Its, valuation is $40,000,000, and during each 


WINDSOR. 


U nite 21. 133 


year its prosperous merchants have $20,000,000 worth of wholesale trade 
Irom the valley-towns. 

Springfield has $ 8.000,000 invested in manufacturing, employing 7,000 hands. 
Among the principal works are those of Smith and Wesson, where 600 men are 
employed in making pistols. This company has made 150,000 revolvers for the 
Russian government. At Brightwood (N. of the city) is the Wason Car Manufac¬ 
tory, whose buildings required 2,000,000 bricks in their construction. These works 
employ 400 men, and turn out 100 passenger and 1,000 freight cars yearly, 
besides many thousand car-wheels. They have made most of the cars for the Pacific 
Railroad and the New Jersey Central, and also a superb car for the Egyptian Khe¬ 
dive. Among the other industries are the Ames MTg Co. (silver and bronzes), r.he 
Powers Paper Co., the Morgan Envelope Co., large paper-collar works, the Milton 
Bradley Co.’s games, whips, cigars, cloths, tools, buttons, jewelry, bricks, &c. 
Three-fourths of tne fine paper made in the United States is turned out here and 
at Holyoke. 

Station, Longmeadow (the Indian Massacsic), settled in 1644 on the 
long meadows by the Connecticut. It is a pretty village on a gentle 
swell near the intervales, and produces hay, grain, tobacco, and freestone. 

The State of Conn, is now entered, and the train stops at Thompson- 
ville, the seat of the largest carpet-works in the country. 

Since 1828 this industry has been growing, until now it uses up 900 tons 
of imported wool each year, and turns out 1,800,000 yards of ingrain and 
Venetian carpets, from 141 looms. 4 M. E. of this village is the large 
community of the Enfield Shakers. The village of Enfield (settled by 
Salem men, in 1681) is a short distance S. of Thompsonville. 

Station, Warehouse Point, where the line crosses the Conn. River by 
the * Iron Truss Bridge, a noble piece of engineering, built in Manchester, 
England, and set up here in 1866. The road-bed of 18 ft. wide is sus¬ 
tained 47 ft. above the water by wrought-iron trusses, held up by 17 
granite piers. The bridge is 1,525 ft. long and cost § 265,000. 

At Hazardville, a few miles N. E., are the powder-works of Col. Hazard. These 
are the largest in England or America, and the former country bought $ 1,250,000 
worth of Hazard’s powder during the Crimean War, while vast amounts were 
made for the United States during the Secession War. 

Station, Windsor Locks (Charter Oak House), with iron and paper 
mills on the water-power afforded by a canal built before the era of rail¬ 
roads to enable vessels to pass the Enfield Falls and gain the Upper Conn. 
Tourists were formerly thus carried from Springfield to New Haven. 
Branch R. R. 5 M. to Suffield, a lovely old rural hamlet. The line crosses 
the Farmington River by a fine seven-arched bridge of red sandstone. 

Station, Windsor (Alford House), settled in 1633-6 by men of Dor¬ 
chester, on the rich intervales of Mattaneag. 

In addition to harassments from the ten Indian tribes with their 2,000 bowmen 
who lived about Mattaneag, the little colony was early attacked by 70 Holland 
troops, sent by Gov. Van Twiller. The Dutch expedition retired before the 
firm and fearless Puritans, and the Indians soon sold out. Rev. John Warham, 
the pastor-chief, who led this nomadic Doroestrian Church in its. 14 days’ march 
through the wilderness, was the first of the New England clergy who used notes in 
preaching. In 1G44 a road was built to Northampton, freight by sea to or from 


1 34 Route 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Boston costing at this time 33 per cent cul valorem. Matthew Grant came from 
England to Dorchester in 1630. and thence went to Windsor. The family lived 
here for over a century, until Noah Grant was killed in the battle of liike George 
(1755). This officer was the great-grandfather of President Grant. Roger Wol¬ 
cott and his son Oliver, governors of Conn. 1751-4, and 1706-7, were born here. 
Oliver Ellsworth, U. S. Senator, 1780-95, and afterwards Chief Justice of the 
U. S., was born here in 1745. Another native of Windsor was Gen. Phelps, who, 
with his associates, bought of Mass, and Conn. 5,500,000 acres of the Western 
wilderness, at a nominal price. These tracts were laid off in townships and 
ranges, and sold to settlers. They now comprise the counties of Ontario and 
bteuben (New York), and the Western Reserve of Ohio. 

There is a long, broad Green near the station, near whicli are the Wol¬ 
cott and Moore mansions, and the Episcopal Church, and just over the 
river, is the old Cong. Church and the Green which was the cradle of 
Windsor, and is still called the Palisado. This town grows much tobacco, 
of which 5,830,000 pounds were raised in the county in 1870. 

Hartford. 

Hotels. — * Allyn House, a fine brownstone building near the station, ac¬ 
commodating 200 guests. $3.50 a day ; * City Hotel, on Main St., $3.00 a day ; 
the United States and the American Hotels, on the old State House Square. 

Railroads. —The present route to Springfield and Boston (124 M.), New 
Haven and New York (109 M.) ; the Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill, to Provi¬ 
dence on the E. (90 M.) and Waterbury on the W. (32 M.) ; the Conn. Valley R. R. 
to Saybrook Point (44 M.) ; the Conn. Western, to Salisbury and Millerton (69 M). 

Steamers. — Daily to the river-landings and Sag Harbor (Long Island) in the 
moruing ; daily, in the afternoon, for the lower landings ; daily for the river- 
landings and New York City. 

Stages to Farmington, Wethersfield, Cromwell, Marlboro (20 M ); to N. 
Canton and \Y\ Hartland (30 M.); to llockanum, Glastonbury, Buckingham, 
West Hartford, and Burnside. 

Horse-Cars run along Main St. from Spring Grove Cemetery to Wethersfield 
(7 M.), also from the New York steamboat pier, at the foot of State St., through 
State and Asylum Sts. 2 M., passing the R. R. Station and the Deaf and Dumb 
Asylum. 

Carriages cost 50c. a course in the city, 75c. for 2 persons, and $1.00 for 3 
persons. Double fares between 12 and 6 at night. By the hour, $2.00. 

Amusements and lectures frequently at Roberts’ Opera House (an elegant 
auditorium), 395 Main St., or at Allyn Hall, on Asylum St. near the Allyn House. 


Connecticut was first explored by the Dutch, one of whose sturdy mariners, 
Adrian Block, ascended the Conn. River as far as the Enfield Falls in the 16-ton 
yacht, “Unrest” (1614). In 1633 the Dutch built a 2-gun fort, called the “Ilirse 
of Good Hope,” on the present site of Hartford, and lived peaceably, tilling the 
ground and trading with the Indians, until June, 1636, when Thomas Hooker led 
his church from Newtown through the wilderness, and settled here. The Park 
River afforded a water-power for a grist-mill, which was speedily utilized, and 
Windsor and Wethersfield, previously more important, brought their grain here 
to be ground. The colony was named for an old Saxon town 21 M. N. of London, 
derived from “ the Ford of Harts.” Three watch-towers were built, and the men 
of the colony enrolled in train-bands, two thirds of whom had matchlocks, 
bandoleers, and rests, while the other third were armed with pikes 10 ft. long, and 
guarded the standard. These train-bands stormed the breach in the Narragansett 
Fort fight. Wahquimacut, sachem of the river tribes, deeded the lands to the 
settlers, and gave them a tribute of beaver-skins and corn, in return for their pro¬ 
tection against Pekoath, king of the Pequots, and the dreaded Mohawks. Under 
the influence of stern Puritan pastors, New Haven enacted the “ Blue Laws,” by 



Sill 







rT? ^r ?3 vI > t 



vnr 



HARTFORD. 


1. State House. D4 

2. Post Office. D5 

3. City Hall. D5 

4 Connecticut Insurance 

Building. D5 

5 Charter-Oak Insurance 

Building. D5 

6. Wadsworth A therueum . 

D S 

7. State Arsenal. G5 

8. Deaf and Dumb A sylmn. 

E 3 

9. High School. E3 

10. Railroad Station. E4 

11. City Hospital B4 

12. Retreatfor the Insane. A3 

13. Colt's Armory. B6 


CHURCHES. 

14. Good Shepherd. 

15. St. Peters. 

16. Central (Cong.) 

17. Park. 

18. Christ. 

HOTELS. 

19. Allyn. 

20. City. 

21. United States. 

22. American. 


23. Charter-Oak Place. C5 

24. South Green. B2 

25. Zion Hill Cemetery. B2 

26. South “ A 3 

27. Ancient ** D5 







0 


































































































































































































■ 
























■ 




























BOSTON TO NEW YORK. Route 21. 135 


which the penalty of death was visited for the crimes of idolatry, unchastity, 
witchcraft, blasphemy, murder, man-stealing, rebellion, smiting parents, &c., 
with savage laws against Sabbath-breaking and the use of tobacco. In 1705, a 
stamp-agency was established here, but it was speedily broken up by an irruption 
of 200 armed riders from Windham County. In 1790 -1800 the town became an 
important point on the great Atlantic stage-road, and 16 lines of stages centred 
here. De Warville wrote here, “ In Conn. Nature and Art have displayed all their 
treasures ; it is really the Paradise of the U. S. ” ; and among other products of 
the State, he speaks enthusiastically of “ the fair Conn, girls.” In December, 
1815, the famous Hartford Convention, composed of 20 delegates from the States 
of New England, met here, to deliberate on the course of the general gov¬ 
ernment in the war with England, to which war many of the people in this 
section were opposed. In 1799 Hartford had a valuation of S 751,533, and in 
1818 its population was 6,500’at which time a writer predicts “that it will con¬ 
tinue to extend its size, its interests, and its consequence.” 

Hartford, “The Queen City of New England,” is the capital of the 
State of Conn., and is finely situated on low hills at the junction of the 
Park and Conn. Rivers. It is noted for its benevolent and educational 
institutes, its extensive manufactures, and its powerful insurance com¬ 
panies. The population is about 53,000. 

* Bushnell Park was named in honor of the late Rev. Dr. Horace 
Bushnell, and is the most beautiful of its size (45 acres) in the country. 
It lies between the railroads and Main St., S. of the depot, and is in the 
centre of the city. Park River encircles it from S. W. by N. to S. E. A 
pleasant drive encircles the W. part, which contains the new State Capi¬ 
tol, the colossal bronze statue of the Episcopal Bishop Brownell (founder 
of Trinity College, and Bishop of Conn., 1819-65), and a fine statue of 
Gen. Israel Putnam (by J. Q. A. Ward). The E. part contains the foun¬ 
tain, and a statue of Dr. Horace Wells, of Hartford, erected by the city 
to his memory as the discoverer of anaesthesia. The Park abounds in 
graceful elms, and is kept in a high state of cultivation. It is a popular 
resort on pleasant afternoons. 

The Congregational Theological Institute (founded 1834, and has 
graduated 400 men) occupies a handsome new building. 

Of the 37 churches of the city, several are adorned with ivy of great 
luxuriance. The 1st Presbyterian is a neat Romanesque building of Conn, 
granite and Ohio stone, and the following are built of red-stone, in Gothic 
forms: Christ, St. John’s, Trinity, Incarnation, the 1st M. E., the South 
Baptist (with a fine portico supported by Caen stone columns), the Pearl 
St. Cong, (with a spire 212 ft. high). The three Cong, churches on Main 
St., the 1st Church (organized in 1633), the South Church (organized in 
1669), and the 4th Church have line buildings. The * Park Cong. Church 
is of sandstone, in the early English Gothic style, with stone columns along 
the aisles, and a timber roof. The Catholics have 2 large stone churches 
(St. Peter’s and the Cathedral of St. Joseph). 

The * Church of the Good Shepherd (Episco- 


136 Route 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


pal), built by Mrs. Colt as a memorial of her husband and children, is a 
gem of Gothic architecture, built of Portland stone trimmed with Ohio 
white stone, with a spire 150 ft. high, containing a sweet chime of bells. 
The W. front has a grand memorial window, in the centre St. Joseph 
carrying the child Jesus, above which is an angel with 3 children; on the 
1. the angel of the resurrection, on the r. a singing angel. The clerestory 
windows are low and brilliant, while the chancel windows represent Christ 
and the 12 Apostles. The chancel is separated from the organ (on the 
r.) and the baptistery (on the 1.) bj r columns of Scotch granite. The 
* baptismal font is sustained by a group of marble cherubs. 


On Asylum St. 

is the mansion long occupied by Mrs. Sigourney, the poetess. 1 M. from 
the Park, on a hill adorned with many trees, is the picturesque and at¬ 
tractive home of Mr. S. L. Clemens (Mark Twain), the genial humorist. 

Back of the Cong. Church, opposite the Athenaeum, is the ancient 
graveyard (entrance to the r. of the church). Here are many graves of 
the 17th and 18th century, with a massive sandstone monument to the 
memory of the first settlers. Two tables (on the r.) cover the remains of 
Thomas Hooker, “ the renowned minister of Hartford and pillar of Conn., 
the Light of the Western Churches ” (Mather) ; and of Samuel Stone, a 
divine who died here in 1663, and whose epitaph begins, 

“ New England's glory and her radiant crowne 
Was he, who now on softest bed ofdowne. 

Till glorious resurrection morn appeare. 

Doth safely, sweetly sleepe in Jesus here." 

The Deaf and Dumb Institute was founded by Dr. Gallaudet in 1817, 
anl is the oldest in America. The building (130 by 50 ft.) was erected 
in 1820, and stands on an embowered hill near the R. R. station, on 
Asylum St. It has 200 - 250 inmates. The Retreat for the Insane (es¬ 
tablished 1824) is a stately building of sandstone covered with gray 
cement, in the S. W. part of the city. From its great elevation, its 
vicinity commands fine valley-views. It has received over 4,000 patients, 
and has discharged 2,000 as cured. The City Hospital is near the Retreat, 
and is a large, plain, and commodious building of sandstone. In the 
opposite section of the city (Upper Main St.) is the State Arsenal, the 
Widows’ Home, and the extensive North Cemetery. 

The old State House Square is in the heart of the city. Here stands 
the State House , an antiquated structure of brick, which dates from 1794. 
In its Senate chamber the Hartford Convention assembled in 1815. The 
building is now used as the City Hall; and the National Government has 
erected a spacious new Post-Office on the square, near by. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


Route 21. 137 


In Oct. 1687, Sir Edmund Andros, the royal governor of New England, entered 
Hartford with his troops, and demanded the royal charter, the only safeguard of 
the liberties of Conn. During a stormy evening-meeting the lights were suddenly 
extinguished, and a bold colonial gentleman seized the charter and fled forth. 
He hid it in a hollow in an oak-tree, and there it stayed until Andros had left the 
town in great anger. The charter was ever after preserved, and the tree was held 
in increasing veneration until 1856, when it was blown down in a storm. Its 
place is now marked with a marble slab. 

Mark Twain asserts that in a late visit to Hartford he saw articles as follows 
made from this tree : “ a walking-stick, dog-collar, needle-case, three-legged stool, 
boot-jack, dinner-table, ten-pin alley, tooth-pick, and enough Charter Oak to 
build a plank-road from Hartford to Great Salt Lake City. ” • 


Opposite State House Square is the superb granite * building of the 
Conn. Mutual Insurance Company, massively constructed at a cost of 
$ 7 - 800,000. A short distance below this building is the fine granite 
block belonging to the Hartford Fire Ins. Co. On Main St., alongside of 
the Athenaeum, is the lofty * granite palace of the Charter Oak Insurance 
Co., which cost above $700,000. The beautiful halls and offices within 
should be visited, and by ascending in the elevator to the observatory on the 
roof (a courtesy granted by the company ; small fee to the conductor of 
the elevator), a fine view is obtained of the city and its environs. The 
elegantly finished sandstone office of the Etna Ins. Co. is nestled alongside 
of the Charter Oak building. There are 21 insurance companies in the 
city (9 Fire and 11 Life), having an aggregate capital amounting to scores 
of millions. 

Wadsworth Athenaeum. 

While Arnold was plotting at West Point (1780), Washington and Rochambeau 
were making plans and enjoying hospitable cheer at the mansion (in Hartford) of 
Col. Wadsworth, Commissary-General of the Army. Wadsworth’s son gave the 
land, after removing the mansion, for a public library, and the present building 
(of Glastenbury gneiss, in castellated architecture) was built from the proceeds 
of a popular subscription of $ 52,000. On the lower floor of the Athenaeum is 
the Statuary Hall containing casts of Ganymede, Washington, Pan, the 

Shepherd Boy, the Truant, Genevieve, Calypso, and an allegorical tigure of Com¬ 
merce, all by Bartholomew (who died at Naples, 1858). Casts, by the same de¬ 
signer, of Ruth and Naomi, Hagar and Ishmael, the Morning Star, Belisarius at 
the Pincian Gate. There are also casts of Sc h wan thaler’s “Bavaria,” and small 
busts (German) of Schon, Murillo, Correggio, Velasquez, Domenichino, Raphael, 
Angelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Ghirlandaja, Fiesole, Mozart, Goethe, Andrea del 
Sarto, Bellini, Van Dyk, Rubens, Francia, Masaccio, Perugino, Claude Lorraine, 
Poussin, Van Eyk, Ilemling, Diirer, Holbein, and Titian. 17 of Rogers’s statuettes 
occupy one long shelf. 

Busts (in marble) of President Fillmore, and * Diana, by Bartholomew ; Wads¬ 
worth, Horace Bushnell, and C. II. Olmstead, by Ives. 

Statues, Stella, and * Sappho, Bartholomew, and an elaborate work, * Eve 
Repentant, his masterpiece. She is sitting with head bowed and hands clasped 
in contrition, while her long, luxuriant hair hangs down her back, and a serpent 
is seen curling about her on the ground. The statue is upon an octagonal pedes¬ 
tal of marble, with the following well-designed bas-reliefs : 1st Panel, Creation of 
Woman; 2, the Temptation ; 3, the Fall ; 4, Hiding from God ; 5, the Expulsion 
from Elen ; 6, Lamentation ; 7. Tilling the Ground ; 8, the First-Born. 


138 Route 21. 


BOSTON TO NEW YORK. 


On the upper floor is the Picture Gallery. West Wall. 93, Quebec, by Church ; 
94, View on the Susquehanna, Church; 28, Ecee Homo; 119, St. Jerome; 2, 
Venice; 21, George Washington, copy from Stuart, by Ellsworth; 58, Feast at 
Levi’s House, after Paul Veronese; 134, Landscape, Lanman; 120, St. Joseph and 
Jesus, after Raphael; 32, Marie Antoinette. 

South Wall. 92, Hartford Puritans in the Wilderness, Church; Burning Ship 
at Sea, Jeioett; 4, Battle (17th century); Samson in Bonds ; 1, * Death of Warren 
at Bunker Hill, Trumbull (the celebrated historical pictures by this artist have 
explanatory charts appended); 5, Mrs. Sigourney, Trumbull; 62, Humboldt; 
121, Wellington ; 80, Oliver Wolcott, Stuart; 2, Battle of Trenton, Trumbull; 87, 
W. Ellery Channing ; 113, Brutus ; 91, Christ in the Temple, Terry; 49, Sea View 
in Fog ;*50, Night-scene at Naples (the last two are bright “restored ” pictures, 
said to be by Vernet); 10, Battle of Princeton. Trumbull; 11, * Death of Mont¬ 
gomery at Quebec, Trumbull; 30, Elevation of the Cross, after Rubens; 12, Holy 
Family, Trumbull; 86, Joel Hawes, D. D. ; 90, Horace Bushnell, 1). D. 

East Wall. Destruction of Jerusalem, a large picture, 22x14 ft., in poor light, 
but full of study (plans on the tables near), by Whichelo; 27, Ruth and Boaz : 95, 
Landscape, Isham; 13, Death of Jane McCrea, Vanderlyn. 

North Wall. 128, John in the Wilderness, Cole; 127, White Mountains, Cole; 
123, Marine View, Come; 129, Cascade in the Catskills, Cole; 124, The Lady of 
the Lake, Trumbull; 130, Lake Winnepesaukee, Cole; 131, View on Talcott Mt., 
Cole; 34, *View of Mt. Etna, at sunrise,from Taormina, Cole; 15, Americus Ves- 
puccius ; 16, Columbus ; * Benjamin West, Sir Thomas Lawrence; 39, Declaration 
of Independence (small artist’s copy), Trumbull; 89, Landscape near New Haven ; 
106, Milton’s Descent of Satan; portraits of various celebrities of the State of 
Conn. 

In the N. wing of the Athenaeum is the Young Men’s Institute, with a circulat¬ 
ing library of 25,000 volumes, and a reading-room (an introduction by a member 
of the Institute entitles one to four weeks’ use). 

The Conn. Historical Society has its rooms in the S. Wing (open daily ; 
no fees). Besides a large library, many curiosities are kept here, among which 
are. King Philip’s club ; Putnam’s battle-sword; bows, arrows, pikes, swords, 
&c., of six wars ; old German missals ; dress-suits at French Court of Commissary 
Wadsworth and Commodore McDonough ; * Turkish scimeter with coral and 
ivory hilt and silver scabbard, and inscriptions in Arabic and Persian ; gold pen 
“ worn out in the service of Washington Irving” ; a link (3 ft. long) of the chain 
stretched across the Hudson in 1776 ; a foot-stove of 1740 ; Elder Brewster’s 
chest; Standish’s dinner-pot; Putnam’s tavern-sign; British shells thrown into 
Stonington ; a mortar Captured in Mexico ; relics of Nathan Hale and Col. Led- 
yard ; Robbins Bible (1478); Farmington church drum ; mail-bag (A. D. 1775) 
used between Hartiord and New Haven, 6 x9 inches; the lirst telegraphic mes¬ 
sage sent in America (from Washington to Baltimore), “ What wonders hath God 
wrought ” ; 13 Russian medals ; Continental money ; a pistol from Colt; Confed¬ 
erate money ; a number of the “ Boston News Letter” for April 17,1704 (the lirst 
number of the first newspaper in America: it lasted 72 years) ; numerous por¬ 
traits, MSS., and pieces of Charter Oak ; Arnold’s watch ; the chair in which 
Lee signed the capitulation of Appomattox ; several battle-flags well used ; the 
swords of Putnam ; of McDonough (victor in the battle of the fleets on Lake 
Champlain); of Capt. Ward, of the U. S. Navy (born Hartford, 1806, killed in the 
attack on Matthias Point, Va., June 27, 1861); of Commander Rogers (killed in 
the naval assault on Fort Sumter), of Col. Russell (of the 10th Conn., killed at 
Roanoke, 1862); of Gen. Sedgwick (killed at Spottsylvania, May 9, 1S64) ; and of 
Gen. Nathaniel Lyon (commander of the U. S. Army in Missouri, killed at the 
battle of Wilson’s Creek, Aug. 10, 1S61). Adjoining this room is the hall contain¬ 
ing a large reference library, endowed with $100,000 by David Watkinson, who 
died in 1857. It now contains 26,000 volumes. 

The principal manufactories of Hartford are the Colt Rifle and Pistol Factory, 
which has 81,000,000 capital, and employs 800 hands. Since Col. Colt’s death it 
has been run by a company. ' Its immense 

buildings are in the S. E. part of the city, near the river, from whose inundations 
they are guarded by a dike (50 ft. broad at the top, and 8,700 ft. long), which cost 
§80,000. The Church of the Good Shepherd is nearby. The Sharps’ Rifle Man- 
ufictory (now at Bridgeport) was here for many years, making arms for the 
United States, Great Britain, Germany, China, Japan, Mexico, Peru, and Chili. 


HARTFORD. 


Route 21. 139 


Among the other companies now in operation are the Kellogg & Bulkeley Litho¬ 
graphing Co., the Pratt & Whitney Machine Co., the Washburn Car-Wheel fac¬ 
tory, the Weed Sewing-Machine Co., Plienix Iron Foundry, Plimpton Envelope 
Co., Batterson’s marble-works, etc. Hartford is also an important market for 
wool and tobacco. 

The great subscription-book publishing-houses of Hartford print many thou¬ 
sands of books yearly. The chief of these are the American Publishing Co. 

The city has 17 hanks, 9 Masonic lodges, 3 lodges of Odd Fellows, 3 of 
Knights of Pythias, 1 Grand-Army Post, 21 temperance societies, and 7 
elite military companies, one of which, the Putnam Phalanx, is widely 
famed. Its members dress in antique uniforms, and the corps (125 men) 
is said to represent $11,000,000. The city has more wealth in propor¬ 
tion to its population than any other American city, and its society is of 
a high and cultivated order. 

By following Main St. to the S. beyond St. Peter’s Church, Armsmear 
is soon reached (on the 1.). This is the residence of the Colt family, with 
spacious grounds adorned with groves, lakes, marble statuary, green¬ 
houses, and a deer-park. Near the mansion is a beautiful * copy (in 
bronze) of the Amazon and Tiger, at the Museum in Berlin. About 3 M. 
beyond is ancient Wethersfield, settled by men of Watertown, Mass., in 
1335. At 1636, the first Conn, legislature convened here declared war 
against the Pequots. The old Webb mansion, near the Cong. Church, 
was Washington’s head-quarters, and here frequent and protracted councils 
of the French and American officers prepared the plans which ended at 
Yorktown. The town has long been noted for its great crops of onions. 
Since 1823, the State Prison has been established here. 

About 3 M. S. W. of the city is Cedar Hill Cemetery, on a bare and 
lofty hill commanding views of the Queen City and the valley of the 
Conn. The * Beach Memorial is a beautiful work of Italian art. A high 
base, surrounded by elegant bas-reliefs, supports a vase, which is sheltered 
by a tabernacle in red, yellow, and white marbles, supported by columns 
of Scotch granite. The Clark Monument is surmounted by a colossal 
bronze Angel of the Resurrection (cast in Munich). The Russell Monu¬ 
ment is crowned by a life-size and life-like seated statue. The monument 
to Col. Samuel Colt (who invented the revolving pistol) consists of a lofty 
Egyptian column of Scotch granite, surmounted by a bronze angel, while 
on the pedestal is the family coat-of-arms (a colt rampant, with a broken 
spear in his mouth). The Allyn Memorial Chapel is a stately structure of 
Westerly granite. 

'Hie * State Capitol stands on the hill S. of Bushnell Park, and is visible 
from the railroad station and from the track. It occupies the former site 
of Trinity College, which was purchased by the city in 1872 (subject to 5 
years’ occupation) for $600,000, and presented to the State. The build¬ 
ing was designed by Upjohn, and cost about $ 2,500,000. It is of white 


139 a. Route 21. 


HARTFORD. 


marble, in secular Gothic architecture, 300 ft. long, with its fronts broken 
by frequent angles, columns, arches, galleries, and abundant commemora¬ 
tive sculpture. Resting on the brow of the hill it commands a superb 
view, and again in turn is thus visible from almost all points of the city. 
The Rall of Representatives is in the centre of the S. front, and is lighted 
on three sides. The arcades are upheld by polished granite columns ; and 
the tympani are Idled with sculptures whose subjects were chosen from 
the history of Conn. The dome is 250 ft. high, curving from adodecago- 
nal base at whose angles are statues representing the 12 original States, 
with a statue of Connecticut, holding her Charter, on the top. 

Trinity College was founded in 1824 as Washington College, and re¬ 
ceived its present name in 1845. Its new site is on Rocky Rill , about 1^ 
M. from the Hartford station, by avenues leading through a delightful 
part of the city ; and commands a superb view over the Connecticut and 
Park-River Valleys, with many hamlets on the peaceful plains and bold 
mountain-ranges beyond. The buildings (now being slowly erected) are 
of brownstone, in early French Gothic architecture, designed by William 
Burges of London. They are to form three great quadrangles, harmonious 
in design, and will be the best edifices in America for educational pur¬ 
poses. The length of the front is 1,300 ft., the lengthwise buildings being 
used as dormitories and lecture-rooms, the N. transverse block the Thea¬ 
tre and Observatory, the S. block the professors’ residences, and the trans¬ 
verse blocks N. and S. of the “ Great Quad ” the Library and Museum, 
Chapel and Dining-Hall. The grounds cover 80 acres, and are being laid 
out by F. Law Olmsted, with the statue of Bishop Brownell on the broad 
terrace in front of the buildings. Trinity has about 100 students. Its 
old Seabury, Brownell, and Jarvis Halls were all demolished to give 
place to the new Capitol. 

The Asylum-Hill Cong. Church has a spire 225 ft. high. 

Cheney Bros., the silk manufac¬ 
turers, have a new and imposing brownstone building on Main St. 


HARTFORD TO SPRINGFIELD. Route 21. 139 b. 


rTv 1 ? 041 is a . 1 ? out 9 M - W - Thft estate “Monte Video ” of the old family 
vo , r V l l on summit, and the pretty Gothic villa is near a “deep, cold 
crystalline lake, on the brow of the mt. From a neighboring tower, “you have 
view of the surrounding country, and into the adjoining States of 
j\lass. and N. l. ; the whole surrounded by an impurpled outline of mts. The 
Conn, is seen sweeping onward like a king, through its fair domain, amid the 
spires of numerous towns and villages, while, by the aid of a glass, the sails of 
the vessels in the pert of Hartford, and the movements in the streets, are dis¬ 
tinctly visible.” (Mrs. Sigourney.) “The peculiarities of the beautiful and 
grand scenery of Monte Video make it quite without a parallel in America, and 
probably with few in the world.” (Prof. Silliman.) 

Rocky Hill (7 M. S.) presents a remarkable junction of trap-rock and sandstonp. 
riom this point is enjoyed a rich view over the river valley, embracing Wethers- 
held and its intervales, Glastenbury and the Lyme Mts., N. Hartford, and, 40 M. to 
the N., the Mts. of Tom and Holyoke. The ride to Rocky Hill, by the river-road 
is a favorite one with the Hartford citizens. 


Other excursions are to Tumble-Down Brook (8 M. W.), to E. and W. Hartford, 
to Glastenbury, and over Newington Mt. S. Windsor (6 M. N.) was a depot for 
prisoners during the Revolution, and its numerous lines of elms were planted by 
British and Hessian captives, under the direction of Lafayette. Here was born 
John Fitch, inventor and builder of the first steamboat in America. He ran a 
steamer-line on the Delaware River from 1786 to 1790, the boat making 8 M. an 
hour. Fulton’s steamers, the “ Clermont ” and the “ Car of Neptune,” were put 
on the Hudson in 1S07. 50 years ago more gin was made in E. Windsor than in 
any other town in America. 


Hartford to Springfield. 

Springfield Division of the N. Y. & N. E R. R. The running time between 
Hartford and Springfield is about 1A hrs. The distance is 31 M. 

The line crosses the Connecticut River on the bridge of the New York 
and New England Railroad, and soon reaches E. Hartford , a pros¬ 
perous rural village near the Hockanum River. Its long and elm-lined 
street is famous for antique dignity and beauty. Several factories are 
located in this vicinity. The train runs N., near the broad and fertile in¬ 
tervales of the Connecticut, prolific in rye and grain, where the ferocious 
Podunk Indians anciently dwelt. The line soon diverges from the river, 
and crosses long and level plains, with but little of interest visible. Af¬ 
ter crossing the Podunk River, the hills of Vernon and Ellington appear 
on the r., and the hamlet of S. Windsor is soon reached. 

Station, East- Windsor Hill, where the Conn. Theological Institution 
Avas long located. Near this place is the Scantic River. Beyond Osborn 
station is Broad Brook, the seat of the Broad-Brook Manufacturing Co., 
which produces cassimeres and other woollen goods. A short distance 
W. is Warehouse Point, opposite Windsor Locks and near the great 
bridge of the N. Y., N. H. & H. R. R. This locality formerly possessed 
the largest gin-distilleries in the United States. The riverward inter¬ 
vales now produce valuable crops of tobacco. The train now enters En¬ 
field, which belonged to Massachusetts until 1752, and was settled in 
1681 by immigrants from Salem in that Province. Beyond Melrose the 


140 Route 21. 


MERIDEN. 


line reaches Hazardville , which is famous for its great gunpowder-works. 
Here the Scantic River is crossed, and the next stop is at Shaker Station, 
where the Shakers have built a handsome station-building. Two families 
of Shakers maintain large and admirably kept farms just to the E., still 
cherishing their weird theological ideas, living in celibacy, and showing 
the most systematic and profitable agriculture in New England. 

The line now crosses the Massachusetts line, and reaches E. Lnng- 
meadow, near valuable quarries of freestone. Soon afterwards it passes 
the Water-Shops and the Armory, and enters Springfield. 


Hartford to New Haven. 

After leaving Hartford, the line runs S., leaving the river, past Newing¬ 
ton to Berlin, whence branch tracks diverge to Middletown, 10 M. on the 
S. E., and New Britain, 2h M. on the N. (see Route 11). Berlin village 
(S. E. of the station) was for scores of years the home of the peripatetic 
tin-pedlers who traversed the country between Mobile and Quebec. The 
manufacture of tin-ware originated here about 1775, and is still carried 
on. The heroic Major Hart was born here, who, at Gen. St. Clair’s defeat 
on the Miami River (1791), led a battalion of the 2d U. S. Infantry (the 
rear-guard) on a fearful charge, in which he and nine tenths of his men 
were killed. At E. Berlin are the works of the American Corrugated 
Iron Co. Percival, the poet, was born here in 1795. 

Station, Meriden (Winthrop House), a busy little city midway between 
Hartford and New Haven. Near the Town Hall (E. of the track) are sev¬ 
eral churches, and some neat villas crown the heights beyond. The 
spacious and imposing building of the State Reform School is passed by 
the train just before reaching the station. The highway to the N. passes 
Mt. Lamentation, and then runs through a narrow pass in the Blue Mts. 
called the Cat Hole, 1 M. long. Ice is found near this deep glen through¬ 
out the year. West Peak, 3 M. from the city, commands a view extend¬ 
ing from Hartford to New Haven, and over Long Island Sound. 

The Meriden Britannia Co. has 6 large buildings, one of which is 527x40 ft. 
1,000 hands are employed, 420 tons of nickel, white metal, and silver are used 
yearly, and $2,500,000 worth of wares are sent out every year to all parts of the 
world. Clias. Parker makes 4,000 tons of tin-ware annually ; the Meriden Cut¬ 
lery Co. (the first in America) employs 400 hands. The Parker Shot Gun Co., the 
Malleable Iron Co., the Meriden Flint Glass Co., the Wilcox Organ Co., are located 
here. Here also are made the llall railway signals and the Bradley & Hubbard 
lamps. 

Ou the great land route from Boston to New Haven, Belcher built a fortified 
tavern here in 1660. Levi S. Ives, Episcopal Bishop of North Carolina (1831-52), 
who was received into the Roman Catholic Church at the city of Rome in 1852 
was a native of Meriden. Meriden has 21,000 inhabitants. 


BOSTON TO ALBANY, &c. Route 22. 141 


After Yalesville comos Wallingford ( Wallingford Hotel). Davenport 
preached a sermon at the founding of this town (in 16(59) from the 
text, “ My beloved hath a vineyard in a very fruitful hill.” On that 
fruitful hill the village is built, with a neat town hall, a costly Episcopal 
church, and a fine modern school-house, besides several neat villas. 
Manufactures of German-silver ware, Albata plate, &c., are carried on on 
the plain. The Hanging Hills form a lofty and picturesque scene to the 
W. of the village. 


The line follows the Quinnipiac Valley to N. Haven. There is here a 
Gothic church (Episcopal) facing the Green, near which is the house where 
Dr. Trumbull the historian lived for 50 years, and wrote 4,000 sermons 
and several books. North Haven makes several million bricks yearly. 
The train soon passes East Rock (on the r.), crosses Mill River, and enters 
New Haven. 

New Haven to New York, see Route 8. 


22. Boston to Albany, Saratoga, and the West. 

Via the Boston & Alb my and New-Yorlc Central Railroads. Over this route 
pass the Chicago Express, the Boston and Chicago Special, the North Snore Lim¬ 
ited, the Cincinnati and St. Louis Express, and other spleuuid through ti-ains, with 
Wagner drawing-room, buffet, library, sleeping, and other vestibuled cars. Six ex¬ 
press-trains run between Boston and Albany daily, in each direc.ion. 

This is the favorite route running W. from Boston, and will long hold this posi¬ 
tion, since the principal inland cities of Massachusetts are on its line. When its 
construction was first talked of, the “ Boston Courier ” derided the scheme, saying 
that it could be built only at an “ expense little less than the market value of the 
whole territory of Massachusetts, and which, if practicable, every person of com¬ 
mon-sense knows would be as useless as a railroad from Boston to the moon.” 
Yet the work went on, the road was completed to Worcester in 1835, to Spring- 
field in 1839, and to Albany in 1842. The admirable appointments and organiza¬ 
tion of this route, and its immunity from accidents, have given it a wide reputa¬ 
tion and an extensive patronge. 

The station in Boston is on the corner of Kneeland and South Sts. 

After emerging from the city, the line crosses the Providence Railroad 
(Route 8) on the Back Bay lands, and passes the junction of the Woon¬ 
socket Railroad (2 M. out). A fine panoramic view is gained by a back¬ 
ward glance from the windows on the r. of the car, embracing the ancient 
academic city of Cambridge, with the heights of Somerville and Charles¬ 
town, while much of Boston is visible to the rear. 

For the itinerary between Boston and Springfield, see Route 21. 

The line crosses the Connecticut River on a long bridge just after leav¬ 
ing Springfield, and follows the valley of the Agawam River past W. 


1 "12 Route 23. 


TUB BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Springfield (Agawam Hotel), a prosperous manufacturing village, to 
Westfield ( Park-Square Hotel, $2.50 a day). The Indian domain of Woro- 
noco was settled by the English in 1660, and called Streamfield, from 
the abundance of its waters, but later, the Legislature named it Westfield, 
as the most westerly of the settlements. Late in King Philip’s War, the 
colonial council ordered that this, and all the other valley towns, should 
be evacuated, and that their inhabitants should concentrate at Springfield 
and Hadley. An angry refusal was returned, and the towns negotiated 
for union with Conn, until the obnoxious edict was repealed. Westfield 
built a fort and stood her ground. At present it is a busy village, where 
32 firms make 2,500,000 whips a year, and 12,000,000 cigars are an¬ 
nually made. The State Normal School located here has 160- 200 stu¬ 
dents, and is of high reputation. Several churches front on the Green, 
which is adorned by a monument by which “ Westfield honors the 
memory of her sons who have fallen in defence of Liberty, Union, and 
Independence, 1861 to 1865.” The pedestal bears the arms of the State 
and of the Union, and a list of the slain, and is surmounted by a bronze 
soldier, of heroic size. The village is situated in a beautiful valley by the 
Westfield River, h M. S. of the station. The New Haven and North¬ 
ampton Railroad crosses the line at this point. 

The line now runs up the valley of the Westfield River, passing 
Pochassic Hill and Mt. Tekoa on the r., and stops at Russell (Russell 
House), in a mountainous town. Station, Huntington and Chester, after 
which the line passes into Berkshire County (see Route 23). Beyond the 
borders .of Berkshire and of Massachusetts the line enters New York State, 
and connects at Chatham with the Hudson and Boston R. R. and the 
Harlem R. R. From Chatham, it runs N. W., through Kinderhook and 
Scliodack, to Greenbush, and thence crossing the Hudson on a noble bridge, 
enters the city of Albany. 

Connections are here made with the New York Central R. R. for the West, and 
with other routes for New York, Saratoga Springs, &c. Also with the Hudson 
River boats. From Albany to Utica, 95 M. ; to Rome, 109 M. ; to Syracuse, 147 
M. ; to Rochester, 250 M. ; to Buffalo, 297 M. ; to Niagara Falls, 305 M. ; to De¬ 
troit, 530 M. ; to Chicago, 820 M. These distances are calculated on the N. Y. 
Central R. R., and the Lake Shore and Michigan Southern R. R. (via Toledo and 
Cleveland), which it meets at Buffalo. By the same route and the shortest lines 
beyond, the whole distance from Boston to Niagara Falls is 507 M.: to Chicago, 
1,022 M. ; to St. Louis, 1,302 M. ; to Omaha, 1,515 M. ; to San Francisco, 3,429 M. 


23. The Berkshire Hills. 

This district will be considered in connection with its railway system, whose 
various lines will be treated of independently of their connections beyond the 
county limits. 

The Berkshire Hills form a beautiful and picturesque district of mountains and 
lakes, abounding in charms for the lover of nature. Thousands of city people 
flock hither every summer, and rest and relax amid scenes so peaceful and attrac¬ 
tive. The best time for a visit here is in October, “ when the holiday lull* lift 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Route 23. 143 


their wreathed and crowned heads in the resplendent days of autumn.” Says 
Beecher of this season in Berkshire, “ Have the evening clouds, suffused with 
sunset, dropped down and become fixed into solid forms? Have the rainbows 
that followed autumn storms faded upon the mts., and left their mantles there? 
What a mighty chorus of colors do the trees roll down the valleys, up the hill¬ 
sides, and over the mts. 

“From Salisbury to Willianystown and then to Bennington in Vermont, there 
stretches a county of valleys,lakes, and mts., that is yet to be as celebrated as 
the lake-district of England, or the hill-country of Palestine.” 

Another writer says : “ Berkshire is a region of hill and valley, mt. and lake, 
beautiful rivers and laughing brooks, —the very Piedmont of America.” Godfrey 
Greylock naively writes, “Somebody has called Berkshire the Piedmont of Amer¬ 
ica. I do not know how just the appellation may be, but 1 do know that if 
Piedmont can rightly be called the Berkshire of Europe, it must be a very de¬ 
lightful region.” 

The route from Boston to Central Berkshire is by the Boston and Albany R. R. 
Distance to Pittsfield, 151 M. ; fare, $3.40. 

The route from New York to Berkshire is by the Housatonic R. R. Distance 
to Pittsfield 166 M. Pittsfield is 53 M. from Springfield and 51 M. from Albany. 

“That section of the Western R. R. which traverses the wild hills of 
Berkshire is a work of immense labor, and a wonderful achievement of 
art. After leaving the wide meadows of the Conn., basking in their rich 
inheritance of alluvial soil and unimpeded sunshine, you wind through 
the narrow valleys of the Westfield River, with masses of mts. before 
you, and woodland heights crowding in upon you, so that at every puff 
of the engine the passage visibly contracts. The Alpine character of the 
river strikes you. At Chester you begin your ascent of 80 ft. in a mile 
for 13 M. The stream between you and the precipitous hillside, cramped 
into its rocky bed, is the Pontoosuc, which leaps down precipices, runs 
forth laughing in the dimpling sunshine, and then, shy as a mountain 
nymph, it dodges behind a knotty copse of evergreen. In approaching 
the summit-level you travel bridges built a hundred feet above other 
mountain streams, tearing along their deep-worn beds ; and at the ‘ deep 
cut’ your passage is hewn through solid rocks, whose mighty walls frown 
over you.” 

“ We have entered Berkshire by a road far superior to the Appian Way. 
On every side are rich valleys and smiling hillsides, and deep set in their 
hollows lovely lakes sparkle like gems.” (Miss Sedgwick.) 

Stages run daily from Westfield to Granville ( Granville House), 9 M. S. W.; 
Tolland, a high-placed hamlet: and Montgomery, a rugged mountain-village, 7 M. 
N. W. Also from Russell 4A M. W. to Blandford (Mouutain House) and 8 M. to 
W. Blandford, in an ancient Scotch-Irish dairy-town. From Huntington station 
(Parks House), stages run thrice weekly N. to S. Worthington (9 M.) and Worth¬ 
ington (Waverly House; 14A M.). From Chester (Chester House), stages thrice 
weekly to Bechet Ventre, 5 M., and Otis ( Day's Hotel), ll£ M. From Middlefield 
daily 4 M. N. to Middlefield. 

From Tekoa Mt. to Washington Summit the track rises 1,211 ft. Becket 
( Clajlin House) has several lakes, from one of which flows Farmington River. 
10 M. S. of Becket Station is Otis, with the island-studded Great Lake. 
Station, Washington , among the hills which the Indians called Tukonick. 
The village is S. of the station in a pretty valley. Station, Hinsdale , in a 


144 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


large town (so named in honor of its first pastor) which is “more pleasing 
to the lover of fine mountain scenery, exhilarating breezes, anil crystal 
fountains, than to the farmer in quest of fortune.” The irits. here recede 
from the line of the track, and the tall hills of Peru are seen on the E. 
(r.). Station, Dalton (Irving House), originally named Dale-town, which 
has large paper-factories. From Dalton a highway leads to Windsor 
(Cleveland House) 7 M. N. E., the Indian “ Ouschaukamaug,” a loftily 
situated village in a town rich in Saxony and Merino sheep, and “ noted 
for the longevity of its inhabitants.” About 3 M. from Dalton, on the 
Windsor road, are the Wahconah Falls, where a mt. stream falls in 3 leaps 
over an 80-ft. cliff of gray marble. 5 M. beyond Dalton the train passes 
Silver Lake, and stops at the costly and handsome station in Pittsfield. 

Hotels. American House, on North St., 120 guests, at $10 to $15 a week ; 
Burbank House, opposite the station, $9 to $12 a week. Mapleivood, for summer 
boarders, $12 to $25 a week. Good restaurant iu the station. 

Pittsfield is a beautiful city of 18,000 inhabitants, and is the centre and 
capital of Berkshire County. It was settled about the middle of the last 
century (1752) on the Indian domain of Pontoosuc, and in 1761 it re¬ 
ceived its present name, in honor of William Pitt, the English statesman 
and friend of America. 

In 1844 the Berkshire Jubilee was held here, calling in thousands of the sons of 
the county from all parts of the Union ; and on Sept. 24, 1872, the largest multi¬ 
tude ever seen in Berkshire gathered here at the dedication of the Soldiers’ 
Monument. At sunrise the church-bells rang, and 37 guns were fired, and the 
procession included 8 bands of music, detachments from 9 veteran regiments, the 
2d Mass. Militia reg., and 2 Commanderies of Knights Templar. G. W. Curtis 
was the orator of the day. “The soldiers’ monuments of the late war, happily 
arising in every town and in every village, with the beautiful rites of Decoration 
Day, hallowing the memory of heroes, are like the spring of liberty, flowing 
everywhere in the land.” The monument consists of a massive pedestal on which 
'is a bronze statue of a lithe young soldier in fatigue uniform, standing at rest, 
'with his left hand holding a flag-staff, and the right hand high up in the folds of 
The flag: This “Color-Bearer ” was designed by Launt Thompson, and cast from 
: the metal of 5 cannon given by Congress for the purpose. The pedestal contains 
the names of 5 officers and 90 men who died in the field, out of 1,250 who enlisted 
at Pittsfield. 

" A voice from lips whereon the coal from Freedom's shrine hath been, 

Thrilled, us hut yesterday, the hearts of Berkshire's Mountain men ; 

The echoes of that solemn voice are sadly lingering still 
In all our sunny valleys, on every wind-swept hill. 

1 

And sandy Barnstable rose up, wet with the salt sea spray 5 
And Bristol sent her answering shout down Narragansett Bay ; 

Along the broad Connecticut old Hampden felt the thrill, 

And the cheer of Hampshire s woodmen swept down from Holyoke Hill. 

A 7 o slave-hunt In our borders — no pirate on our strand ! 

Ho fetters in the Bay State — no slave upon our land /” 

"Whittier. 

The monument stands in the Park, a green in the midst of the city, 
which is called the heart of Berkshire. 

Here, in the centre of an elliptical line of trees, stood the Old Elm, 
with its 90 ft. of smooth shaft, and concentric rings representing 340 years 
of growth. After being twice thunder-smitten, the Old Elm became un- 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Route 23. 145 


safe, and was taken down in 1864, amid the mourning of the county. On 
one side of the Park is the Congregational Church (of stone), where Dr. 
John Todd (a powerful and prolific writer) preached, 1842-70. Next to 
it is St. Stephen’s Episcopal Church. At the end of the Park is the 
elegant white marble * Court House, which, together with the Jail (in 
another street), cost $ 400,000. Near the Court House, and fronting the 
Park, is the building of the Berkshire Athenaeum, containing a fine library 
and collections of local curiosities. On the corner of North and West Sts., 
near the Park, is the noble building of the Berkshire Life Insurance Co. 
On the main street are some fine business buildings, and beyond the 
American House is the small but handsome Cathedral of St. 

Joseph. The French residents have, also, a Catholic Church for their 
hundred families, and there is also a German Lutheran Church. Beyond 
St. Joseph’s is the Maplewood Institute (for young ladies), “ whose grace¬ 
ful chapel, gymnasium, and half ivy-covered dwellings gleam white 
through groves and avenues of famed attractiveness.” During the vacation, 
this building is used as a summer boarding-house ($10-15 a week). On 
East St. is the noble old Appleton mansion, once the home of Longfellow’s 
wife, and the place of “The Old Clock on the Stairs.” Longfellow spent 
many summers here. At Pittsfield Lord Coleridge said: “England has 
nothing more pleasingly picturesque than Berkshire.” The Baptists have 
a handsome church on North St.; and the Methodist Church is attractive. 
There are many beautiful villas on Wendell Avenue, Jubilee Hill, &c. 
The town is situated on a plateau 1,000-1,200 ft. above the sea, and 
surrounded by lofty hills, the 'laconics on the W. and the Hoosacs on the 
E. Beautiful villas abound in the suburban streets, and extensive manu¬ 
factures of cotton and woollen cloths, knit goods, and boots, furnish employ¬ 
ment for the foreign population. The town is supplied with water from 
Lake Ashley, a little romantic loch which lies upon the summit of Wash¬ 
ington Mt. (1,800 ft. high), 7 M. to the S. E. Pittsfield has large manu¬ 
factures, beautiful alluvial environs, 9 churches, 3 papers, and 4 banks. 

Lake Onota (G83 acres) is about 2 M. W. of Pittsfield. From the hill 
where Ashley’s Fort stood, a fine view is enjoyed, but the best prospect is 
from a long point running from the N. shore, to which locality belongs the 
legend of “ The White Deer of Onota.” 

Pontoosuc Lake, “the haunt of the winter deer” (575 acres), is 2£ M. 
N. of Pittsfield, on the road to Williamstown (22 M.). 

Berry Pond is to the N. W. in Hancock. “Berry Pond does not derive its 
name from the strawberries, blackberries, and raspberries, which by their abun¬ 
dance in the vicinity would justify the appellation, but from an obscure, stout¬ 
hearted man who once dwelt upon its border, and wrung subsistence for a large 
family of girls out of the margin of its rocky chalice. Nothing can exceed the 
beauty of this pond. Its margin is sometimes a beach of silvery sand, strewn 
with blocks of snowy quartz and delicate, fibrous mica ; again grassy and green to 
the water’s edge; and yet again fringed with long eyelashes (if birch and hazel- 
trees, that dreamily gaze at their reflection in the mirror.” (Taconic.) 

South Mountain is S. of Pittsfield. From its S. summit Greylock 

- * * - # * f 

l 


14G Route 23. 


THE BERKSHlltE HILLS. 


is seen in the N., Mount Oceola and Perry’s Peak in the W., tlie Lenox Mt. in the 
S., and the Mts. of Washington in the E. The city is close at hand in the N. with 
Lake Onota at its side. Nearer is Melville Lake, or Lilly Bowl, near Lilly 
Ope, so named from an old Meg Merrilies of a hermitess named Lilly, who once 
lived in the valley. 

In the mts. N. W. of Pittsfield, and distant several miles, are some romantic 
points. Below Mt. Ilonwee is the Promised Land, a name given with grim New 
England humor to a tract of land for which grants were long promised and 
longer delayed. On its W. summit is a pretty lakelet whence Lulu Ope (or valley) 
may be descended to Lula Cascade, “ a foam-white column which finds its base in a 
circular pool of black and glossy surface, overhung by a gray old boulder, and by 
masses of tangled foliage.” S. of the Promised Land is the Ope of Promise, the 
nearest (though arduous) path to Berry Pond. Then conies Arbutus Hill and 
Ope, which are covered with arbutus in May, and beyond them is Old Tower TIill. 

S. of the Lebanon road (which runs through Lilly Ope) is Doll Mt., where the 
Shakers formerly worshipped, and which they called Mt. Zion. Silver Lake is in 
the E. environs, and Sylvan Lake is 2-3 M. E. of the city. The larger lakes here¬ 
abouts are prolific in pickerel, but the trout have been nearly exterminated. 

O. Wendell Holmes long resided at a villa 2 M. from the city, on a small farm 
remaining from 24,000 acres purchased by his grandfather in 1735. Near him 
lived Herman Melville, the rover, and author of sea-novels. “ White Jacket,” 
“ Moby Dick,” and other works were written here, where he resided 1850-00. 

Daily stages run from Pittsfield N. W 10 M to Hancock, a lonely Baptist village 
among the mountain*: also, N. 21 M. to Pontoosnc . at the foot of Pontoosuc bake; 
0 M. to Lanesboro (Lanesboro 11011861; 13 M. to Hew Ashford, under Saddleback 
Mr.; 17 M. to S. Williavistown (Sabin House), under Greylock ; and 22 M. to 
Williamstown (see page 156). Stages from Hinsdale to Windsor, Peru, Cummington. 

Near the station of Richmond are the remarkable geological phenomena of 
Richmond Valley, consisting of seven parallel lines of boulders, stretching across 
the valley from Perry’s Peak to Lenox Mt. in a S. E. direction. This feature was 
carefully studied by Sir Charles Lyell (in two visits), and is mapped and described 
in his “Antiquity of Man.” Perry’s Peak is famed for its superb over-view. 

To New Lebanon Springs is a favorite excursion from Pittsfield. By 
the highway the distance is 12-15 M. ; the railroad route is circuitous, 
being by the Albany line to Chatham, and thence 19 M. up the Lebanon- 
Springs Railroad, which leads 57 M. N. to Bennington. 

Columbia Hall ($15 to $25 a week) is a fashionable old summer-hotel. 
The thermal springs at New Lebanon have won an excellent reputation 
for their efficacy in diseases of the skin and liver. The flow of the waters 
is very large, and its temperature is about 73°. There are many fine 
drives and walks in this vicinity, the favorite of which is to the Shaker 
Village, about 2 M. distant. 

The Shakers originated from a French sect which came to England in 1706, and 
Ann Lee, of Manchester, the daughter of a blacksmith and the wife of a black¬ 
smith, joined them in 1758. In 1770, after emerging from a madhouse where she 
was confined for reviling matrimony, she announced, “ I am Ann, the Word,” and 
soon after came to America, and was made the “Spiritual Head ” of the sect. In 
1780 she produced a revival at New Lebanon, and converted many to Sliakerism, 
soon after which the sect established its head-quarters there, and in 1795 accepted 
the commonwealth covenant. She claimed the power of working miracles, and 
held that Cln ist’s coming was not the fulfilment of “ the desire of all nations, but 
that the second Divine advent must naturally be manifested in that particular 
object, to wit, woman, which is eminently the desire of all nations.” Mother 
Ann made New Lebanon “the capital of the Shaker world, the rural Vatican 
which claims a more despotic sway over the mind of man than ever the Roman 
Pontiff assumed.” On her death a peculiar hierarchy assumed the government. 
The First Elder, the successor of Mother Ann, appoints the second elder, and the 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. Route 23. 147 


first and second eldress. These four, called the “Holy Lead,” remain secluded 
in the church at Lebanon, and appoint subordinate clergy, including one elder in 
each family. Their Scriptures are contained in the “ Holy Laws ” and Order 
Book, which are claimed as works of inspiration, and as partly dictated by the 
Recording Angel, althougn they may be amended or rescinded by the Holy Lead. 
Unlike other sects, the Shakers claim that men may join their church after death, 
and among other illustrious posthumous members, they count Washington, 
Lafayette, Napoleon, Tamerlane, and Pocahontas. “ By frugality and industry 
they give us many useful things, but they do not produce what the" Republic most 
needs, — men and women.”* 

The sect has been declining since the death of its great head and her disciples, 
because it has no power; of internal development. There are many Shaker vil¬ 
lages in the N. Atlantic States, but the community at New Lebanon has dwindled 
to 20- 30 members. 

3 M. S. W. of Pittsfield (by R R.) is a Shaker village, near Richmond Pond, 
and a little way to the N. of it is a mountain (in Hancock) where the devotees of 
this faith formerly held their weird meeting. Their tradition states that here on 
Mt. Sinai, the Shakers hunted Satan throughout a long summer night, and finally 
killed and buried him. Over his grave, to this day, Washington and Lafayette 
keep guard, mounted on white horses, and are seen on summer nights by the 
faithful who chance to pass their ancient shrine. 

From Pittsfield the Housatonic R. R. runs through Southern Berkshire. 
“ Of all the railroads near New York none can compare, for beauty of 
scenery, with the Housatonic from Newtown to Pittsfield, but especially 
from New Milford to Lenox.” (Beecher.) Fredrika Bremer speaks of 
“the wonderfully picturesque and sometimes splendidly gloomy scenery ” 
along the line of this railroad. By this route it is 8 M. to Lenox Station 
(passing South Mt. on the r.), from which stages ascend to the village in 
2 M. By a fine carriage road it is G M. S. of Pittsfield. 

Hotels. Curtis Hotel accommodates 110 guests at 8 4.00 a day, with con¬ 
siderable reductions for a long stay. There are several large summer boarding¬ 
houses here (Mrs. Flint’s, I. J • Newton’s, &c,), more quiet and inexpensive than the 
hotel, and some of them better situated. 

“ Lenox, known for the singular purity and exhilarating effects of its air, and 
for the beauty of its mountain scenery. If one spends July or October in Lenox, 
he will hardly seek another home for the summer. The church stands upon the 
highest point in the village, and if, in summer, one stands in the door and gazes 
upon the vast panorama, lie might, without half the Psalmist’s devotion, prefer 
to stand in the door of the Lord’s house to a dwelling in tent, tabernacle, or man¬ 
sion.” So says Beecher, whose “Star Papers” were written during his summer 
visits to Lenox, in a house which stood near the site now occupied by Gen. Rath- 
bone’s mansion. 

Fredrika Bremer wrote, “The country around Lenox is romantically lovely, 
inspired with wood-covered hills and the prettiest little lakes.” 

This “gem among the mountains ” (Sillimax) was settled in 1750, and 
received the family name of the Duke of Richmond. It is situated on a 
high hill, and contains the old Court House (which now has a library and 
reading-room) and numerous villas pertaining to gentlemen of Boston and 
New York. Fanny Kemble (Butler) long resided here, and wished to be 
buried in the graveyard on the hill, saying, “ I will not rise to trouble 
any one if they will let me sleep here.’ I will only ask to be permitted, 
once in a while, to raise my head and look out upon this glorious scene ”; 

* Much of the foregoing account has been condensed Pom DwiVht's Travels. The editor 
does not know whether the government remains now in the same form. 


148 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


and Beecher adds, “May she behold one so much fairer that this scenic 
beauty shall fade to a shadow.” Lenox is 1,300 ft. high. It has Waring’s 
system of sewerage, and a water-supply from mountain-springs. The 
churches are Cong., Meth., Epis., and Cath. There are 100 summer 
cottages here. The Lenox Club has a well-fitted club-house. 

Bald Head is 2-3 M. from the village. Erom this point is seen the rich 
Stockbridge Valley, the Bowl (Lake Mahkeenac), and the wide Housa- 
tonic valley on the S., with Laurel Lake and Rattlesnake Mt. on the S. E. 
On the N. and W. are Lenox and Oceola Mts., on the N. is South Mt., and 
on the E. are the tumultuous hills of Washington, “a view wide, rich, and 
joyous.” 

The Stockbridye Bowl and Laurel Lake are S. W. and S. E. of Lenox, 
— each being 2.J M. distant (see Stockbridge and Lee). A pretty view 
of Laurel Lake is gained from the first hill S. of the village, with Lenox 
Furnace near it on the 1. 

Perry’s Peak is 6-7 M. distant, passing Lenox Mt. and Richmond 
Valley. This lone summit, which stands on the frontier of New York, is 
2,077 ft. high, and overlooks the Hudson, the Catskills, and the Green 
Mts. New Lebanon, “the Shaker capital, and Gretna Green of Mass.,” 
is but 7-8 M. beyond the Peak. 

At Lenox Furnace, 2 M. S. E. of the Tillage, on the R. R., are extensive glass¬ 
works, where, among other varieties, the best quality of plate-glass is made, from 
pure granulated quartz. 

Other excursions are to the Ledge, the Pinnacle, and Bichmond Hill. The sunset 
view from Church Hill is of great beauty, embracing Greylock on the N., and the 
Dome on the S. Echo Lake is a beautiful loch near \V. Stockbridge Mt. 

Lee (Morgan House) is 4^ M. S. E. of Lenox by road, 

and 5 M. by railroad and stage. 

Lee was settled in 1760, and was named for one of the Virginian Lees, 
who were so distinguished in the Continental Army. Paper-making was 
early commenced here, and notv the business has assumed vast propor¬ 
tions. But the town is most widely known for its excellent white marble, 
of which $1,000,000 worth was used in building the U. S. Capitol at 
Washington. The quarries are close to the village on the S., and lie be¬ 
tween the railroad and the river. They are now supplying marble for the 
New-York Cathedral and the Philadelphia City Hall. , Lee has good 
churches and schools, a newspaper (The Valley Gleaner), and an efficient 
Village-Improvement Association. Fern Cliff is E. of the village, and 
gives noble views of the Housatonic and Hoosac Valleys, with Greylock 
and other stately peaks. 

Laurel Lake is a pretty sheet of water 1 M. N. of Lee, that should be 
visited in the late atccrnoon to catch “the delicate evening lights that 
glance from its tranquil surface.’’ 

Daily stages, 5 M. S. E. (and from S. Lee station. 3 M.) to the ancient Shaker 
community of Tyrinr/ham, now extinct, and its buildings occupied by the summer - 
resort of Fernsitle (100 guests ; $ 9 -10 a week). Tt is in a lovely secluded glen, 
1.600 ft. above the sea, and under the Shakers’ Holy Hill. Stages also daily fron 
Lee, 5 M to IV. Beeket; and 10 M. to Otis (Day's Hotel), where man}’ summer- 
pilgrims rest 


STOCKBRIDGE. 


Route 23. 149 


Stockbridge ( Stockbridge House, 70 - 80 guests, $ 2.50 a day, $ 15 to $ 21 
a week), 6 M. from Lee by R. R., and 4 M. by the highway, is one of 
the fairest of what Gov. Andrew called “the delicious surprises of Berk¬ 
shire.” It is “famed for its meadow-elms, for the picturesque beauty 
adjacent, for the quiet beauty of a village which sleeps along a level plain 
just under the rim of the hills.” (Beecher.) The hotel fronts on the 
main street; to its 1. is a marble fountain from Italy; and before it is the 
new memorial St. Paul’s Episcopal Church, the gift of Mr. Charles E. 
Butler, in 1884, with its sweet and deep-toned bell. Near by stands a 
brown-stone shaft, inscribed “To her sons, beloved and honored, who 
died for their country in the great war of the Rebellion, Stockbridge, in 
grateful remembrance, has raised this monument.” To the W. is the 
house (built 1737) where Edwards wrote “The Freedom of the Will.” 

It is now a summer boarding-house, known as Edwards Hall. In and near the 
Green, * M. W. of the hotel, are the old Cong. Church; the Jonathan-Edwards 
monument, of polished Scotch granite; the Bell-Tower, a picturesque stone cam¬ 
panile containing a chime of teu bells, given to the town by David Dudley Field ; 
and the ancient Indian cemetery, with its rugged memorial monument. Aaron 
Burr once lived in a house still standing, towards the station. Opposite Edwards 
Hall is the venerable Sedgwick mansion. ^ Rl. N. of the church is a park of 12 
acres, given to the town by Cyrus YV. Field. Noble villas crown the adjacent hills, 
and surround Stockbridge Bowl. 

On the main st., E. of the hotel, is the Jackson Library, a neat little 
stone building containing 8,000 volumes, a cabinet of minerals, certain 
relics of Edwards, and a marble tablet, on which are inscribed the names 
of 134 officers and men who went from Stockbridge to the Secession War. 
On the street diverging from the Library is a small Catholic Church of 
marble. Beyond the Library is the old Academy with a long semicircle 
of elms in front, a copy, in living trees, of the stone porticos before St. 
Peter’s Church in Rome. Back of the Academy is Laurel Hill, with a 
turf rostrum in a glen surrounded by trees and rocks. Here in late 
August of each year meets the Laurel Hill Association, devoted to pre¬ 
serving, protecting, and increasing the beauty of the village and its en¬ 
virons. On the heights above the village are the mansions of David Dud¬ 
ley Field (for 40* years a prominent N. Y. lawyer and jurist), Id. M. 
Field, D. D. (author, and for many years editor of the “ Evangelist ” ), Ivi- 
son (the publisher), Prof. Joy (of Columbia College), and the old Mission 
House, built by “the Great and General Court of His Majesty’s Province 
of Massachusetts Bay ” early in the last century. The view from these 
heights, especially about sunset, is one of the most beautiful in nature 
(it was pronounced by Dr. McCosh equal to any in Scotland), embracing 
the rich valley of the Housatonic to the E. and W., with the valley of 
Konkapot River stretching away in the S. to Monument Mt., Bear Mt. 
rising close on the 1. and the tufted Evergreen Hill dividing the valley. 

A great people crossed deep waters from a far-distant continent in tlie N. YV. 
and marched by many pilgrimages to the sea-shore and the valley of the Hudson. 


150 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Here they built cities and lived, until a great famine scattered them and very 
many of them died. Wandering for years in quest of a precarious living, “ they 
lost their arts and manners,” and a part of them settled by the Housatonic River. 
Such were traditions of the Muhhekanew Indians told to President Dwight. In 
1734 the colony established a mission, and sent John Sergeant to teach the Muh- 
hekanews (“ people of the great moving waters ”) at their village of Iloussatonnuc, 
which was named Stockbridge. This tribe was ever friendly to the English, and 
gladly received the Gospel, first from the teachings of Sergeant, who labored here 
1734 _ 49 ) and translated the New Testament, and part of the Old, into their 
language. In 15 years he baptized 129 Indians. He was succeeded by Jonathan 
Edwards (preaching by interpreters, 1751-7), who in turn was succeeded by 
Stephen West. Many of the Indians enlisted in the Continental Army, and a 
company of them won high distinction at the battle of White Plains. In 1751 
there were 150 Indian families here, and but 6 English families ; but by 1783 the. 
balance had changed, and John Sergeant’s son, then their pastor, led the tribe to 
New Stockbridge, on land given by the Oneida tribe, in Western New York. 
About 400 people were numbered in this emigration. They remained there 34 
years, and then moved to Wisconsin, where they stayed 17 years more, and about 
the year 1840 moved to the vicinity of Leavenworth, in Kansas. Where they have 
been crowded to since, this record cannot tell. 

In 1069 the great Sachem Checkatabut, head of the Massachusetts Indians, 
with 700 warriors, marched from the sea to the Hudson on a campaign against 
the Mohawks. The latter, concentrating their forces at the great tribal fortress, 
repelled all assaults and made fierce sorties, until the men of Massachusetts, find¬ 
ing their provisions failing, and the whole country rising about their ears, beat a 
retreat. Their march was probably directed on Stockbridge, as being the seat of 
a rich, peaceful, and friendly tribe, where they could hope to get food and aid. 
But a powerful force of Mohawks, by a forced march, got ahead of them and laid 
an ambush among the dense forests and rugged ravines of the Taconics (Tagh- 
kanak, “ the wood place,” or “Forest Hills”). The retreating warriors fell into 
the snare, and in the long and desperate conflict which ensued, Checkatabut and 
58 of his sagamores were killed, together with a great portion of the men. Only 
a handful succeeded in reaching the coast again. 

At the close of King Philip’s War, the remnants of the insurgent confederation 
took refuge in the S. Berkshire Hills. But Talcott’s “ Flying Army,” from the 
E., and the Mohawks, from the W. made such devastating inroads upon them 
that they speedily made their submission. 

Among the natives of Stockbridge are II. M. Field, D. D., the editor; Cyrus 
W. Field, the projector and organizer of the Atlantic Telegraph Cable ; E. Bacon, 
the jurist; J. S. Hart, the author ; and Catnerine M. Sedgwick, the popular au¬ 
thoress of “Redwood,” “Hope Leslie,” &c. Also, the Rev. Dr. Mark Hopkins. 

Jonathan Edwards, the greatest of American metaphysicians, was born in 
Conn., 1703, and a ter 30 years of preaching lie settled at Stockbridge. Here he 
wrote the remarkable treatise on “ The Freedom of the Will,” in whose close and 
subtle argument he maintained “that philosophic necessity was compatible with 
freedom of the will, rightly defined, and with human responsibility. Tall and 
slender in person, he had a high, broad, bold forehead, i>ieroing and luminous 
eyes, and a countenance indicative of sincerity and benevolence.” The great re¬ 
ligious awakening which convulsed the frozen churches of New England before 
the middle of the last century was largely caused by his marvellous sermons, un-' 
evadable in their directness, incontrovertible in their logic, and terrific in their 
lurid earnestness. Probably no preacher since Chrysostom has had such power 
of striking convulsive terror into an audience; and this he did simply by his 
words and by his intense earnestness, and without any of the graces or artifices 
of oratory. 

While President of New Jersey College, Edwards died (1758), leaving “The 
Freedom of the Will,” “The Religious Affections,” and “The History of Re¬ 
demption,” as his great monuments. These, and his other writings, including 
many sermons, lill 10 octavo volumes. 

“These three, Augustine, Calvin, and Jonathan Edwards.” 

* Lake Mahkeenac (Stockbridge Bowl) is 3-4 M. N. of the village by 
admirable roads. This is a beautiful, calm lake, surrounded by hills, and 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


R,oute 23. 151 


with the village and spire of Curtisville peering above the trees on the S. 
The best way is to go np by the road on the heights, leaving Mahkeenac 
on the 1. and passing around its N. end, return on a road W. of the Lake 
through Curtisville. 5 min. walk from the latter village is a beautiful 
little tarn called Lake Averick, or Mountain Mirror. Hawthorne lived 
in a little red farmhouse near Mahkeenac for a year and a half (1850 - 51), 
but remembered the many-sounding sea on whose shores he was born and 
had lived, and says but little about this mountain-water. But he found 
rare pleasure in watching the mountains themselves. “ In its autumn 
hues, Monument Mt. looks like a headless sphinx wrapped in a rich Per¬ 
sian shawl ” ; “this valley in which I dwell seems like a vast basin filled 
with sunshine as with wine; and the changes of the seasons on Monu¬ 
ment and Bald Mts., and the black-purple dome of Taconic, with the 
winter sunset which has a softness and delicacy which impart themselves 
to a white marble world. ” 

* Monument Mt. is 3 - 4 M. from Stockbridge. The Great Barrington 
road is followed to the top of the ridge, then a wood-road diverges to the 
r. When f M. from the N. summit a path is taken which conducts to 
Pulpit Rock, the Profile (beyond the N. summit), <kc. On the E. side is 
a white quartz cliff of vast depth, detached from which is the Pulpit. 
From the summit a noble * view is gained, embracing the Housatonic Valley 
for many leagues, with its fair villages and mountain-walls, while the 
Green Mt. and Greylock tower in the N. and the Catskills may be seen 
in the W., if the day is clear. 

“ To the north a path 

. Conducts you up the narrow battlements. 

Steep is the western side, shaggy and wild. 

With many trees and pinnacles of flint. 

And munv a haughty crag. But to the east 
Sheer to the vale ao down the bare old cliffs, 

, Huge pillars that in middle Heaven unrear 

Their weather-beaten capitals — here dark 
With the thick moss of centuries, and there 
Of chalky whiteness, where the thunderbolt 
Hath smitten them.’' — Bryant. 

The Mt. derives its name from a cairn which was made of stones, to which 
each passing Indian added a stone. The legend states that it was raised over a 
beautiful maiden who passionately loved her cousin, and being forbidden by the 
Indian laws to marry him, she threw herseif from a lofty cliff and was dashed in 
pieces. 

Icy Glen is about l£ M. from Stockbridge, by the road crossing the R. R. just 
to the 1. of the station, — and leaving the road near some houses at the mt. foot, 
go up into a romantic glen, with seats arranged about it. From this point a wild 
chaos of rocks, caverns, and trees expends through a long ravine, where ice is 
found in July. This is the N. end of Bear Mt., on whose top an observatory has 
been raised, commanding a neat view. It is gained by crossing the river on a 
wire foot-bridge near the Main St., and taking a pleasant forest-path up the slope. 

Excursions are made from Stockbridge to Lee, Lenox, Great Barrington, and 
Mt. Everett, also to the romantic and desolate town of Monterey (11 M. S. E.). 

“ If you wish to be filled and satisfied with the serenest delight, ride to the 
summitof this encircling hill-ridge ” (above Stockbridge) in a summer’s afternoon, 
while the sun is but an hour high. The Housatonic winds, in great circuits, all 
through the valley, carrying willows and alders with it wherever it goes. The 


152 Route 23. THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


horizon on every side is piled and terraced with mountains. Abrupt and isolated 
mountains bolt up here and there over the whole stretch of plain, covered with 
evergreens.” (Beecher.) 

Great Barrington is S. of Stockbridge, 8 M. by R. R., 7^ M. by high¬ 
way. The Collins House is near the village, and is for summer-guests 
(§10-20 a week). The new town-hall is a handsome building, in front of 
which is a beautiful bronze statue of Victory (cast in Paris), for the Sol¬ 
diers’ Monument. Berkshire Hotel, a roomy old stone building, § 10-14 a 
week; Miller’s Hotel. This “ is one of those places which one never en¬ 
ters without wishing never to leave. It rests beneath the branches of 
great numbers of the stateliest elms.” (Beecher.) Fine macadamized 
roads are built around the place, on which excursions are made to Monu¬ 
ment Mt. (4 M.), Monterey (8 M.), and Sheffield (6-7 M.). In the vi¬ 
cinity is a curious rock formation called Purgatory, while a path leads to 
the top of E. Mt. in 2 M. The Berkshire Soda Springs (small hotel) are 
about 3 M. to the S. E. Several fine villas are in the outskirts of the vil¬ 
lage, and the Cong, and Epis. churches are handsome buildings. 

Daily stages run 10 M. S. E. to New Marlboro’ (summer-board in S. Berkshire 
Institute), where there is a stalactite cave. On the way, 5-6 M. out, is Lake Buel, 
a beautiful sheet of water, with groves, steamboat, &c. 

E. of New Marlboro’ is Sandistield, with Seymour and Hanging Mts. and Spec¬ 
tacle Ponds. Here was born Col. John Brown (1744), a brave partisan officer in 
the Revolutionary War, whose fearless and fanatical Puritan grandson. John 
Brown, invaded the powerful State of Virginia at the head of 20 men (Oct. 16, 
1859), intending to become the liberator of the slaves of the South. The Virginian 
militia gathered quickly, attacked him at Harper’s Ferry, killed most of his men 
(including his two sons), and captured the wounded leader. He was hung, ac¬ 
cording to the sentence of the law, “and met death with serene 

composure. ” 

A daily stage runs from Great Barrington to N. and S. Egremont. 

The Mt. Everett House, in S. Egremont, is a small and secluded summer-hotel, 
situated about 5 M. lroin the lofty Mt. Everett, and in a thinly settled town 
abounding with lakes. The ascent of Mt. Everett is “along a vast, unculti¬ 
vated slope, to the height of nearly 2,000 ft., when you reach tlje broad valley 
where the few inhabitants reside, in the centre of a vast pile of mts.” The 
town has but 256 inhabitants. Dr. Hitchcock thus describes the * view from Mt. 
Everett: “You feel yourself to be standing above everything around you, and 
possess the proud consciousness of literally looking down upon all terrestrial 
scenes. Before you on the E. the valley through which the Ilousatonic meanders 
stretches far N. in Mass., and S. into Conn. ; sprinkled over with copse and glebe, 
with small sheets of water and beautiful villages. To the S. E. a large sheet of 
water appears, of surpassing beauty. In the S. W. the gigantic Alander, Riga, 
and other mts. more remote, seem to bear the blue heavens on their heads in 
calm majesty ; while stretching across the far distant W. the Catskills hang like 
the curtains of the sky. O what a glorious display of mts. all around you ! This 
is certainly the grandest prospect in Mass., though others are more beautiful." 

3 M. bv road from N. Egremont is White's Hill , famous for Ps noble view. 

M t. Washington (Alan(Jar House ; boarding-houses oi I Spurr, O. C Whit- 
beck, W. H. Weaver) is reached by daily stages running between Great Barrington 
and Copake, on the N. Y. Central. Also, stages from Copake to Alandar, 6 M. S. 
E. The settlements are on the lofty plateau between Mt. Alandar and Mt. Everett 
(the Dome of the Taconics), with rare views from Sunset Hill, etc. The scenery 
is of a high order of grandeur, and the adjacent peaks and Bash-Bish Falls are 
visited thence. Near the hamlet is Sky Farm, long the home of the poets, Dora 
and Elaine Goodale. Mt. Washington was an appanage of the great Livingston 
Manor, of New York, and first settled by the Dutch It was the first town named 
for the great Virginian, its name having been given by the State Legislature in 1776. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


Route 23. 153 


In Egremont occurred the last engagement in Shays’ rebellion, when the insur¬ 
gents, after plundering Stockbridge, were attacked here by the Great Barrington 
militia, and 40 were killed and wounded. 

Bash-Bisli Falls (see Salisbury, Conn.) are about 10 M. from the Mt. Everett 
House, by a road running down through Mt. Washington, and around Cedar Mt. 
The views of Mt. Everett, Elk, Alander, and Cedar Mts. are tine. 

6 M. S. of Great Barrington is Sheffield (Miller Hotel, small), “ full 
of rural simplicity and beauty, richly decorated with lovely valley and 
majestic mountain scenery.” It is a quiet village, with a broad, shady 
street, in a rich intervale of the Housatonic, and is chiefly noted for its 
marble, of which Girard College (Philadelphia), with its huge columns, 
was built. Picturesque roads run S. into Salisbury, and N. W. into 
Egremont. 

Bishop Janes, of the Methodist Church ; D D. Barnard, 8 years M. C. and 
Minister to Prussia, 1849-53; F. A. P. Barnard, President of Columbia College 
since 1864 ; H. D. and T. Sedgwick, lawyers, the latter of whom was derided for 
introducing a bill in the Legislature, projecting a railroad from Boston to Albany 
(1827) ; Chester Dewey, D. D., clergyman and botanist; Onolle Dewey, D. D., the 
Unitarian divine ; and Judge Daniel Dewey, — were natives of Sheffield. 

Northern Berkshire 

is approached from Pittsfield by the Pittsfield and N. Adams Branch R. 
R. There is also a romantic road leading through the western valleys and 
remote from the R. R., passing Pontoosuc Lake, and then through the 
glens between the Saddle-Back Range and that line of mts. which stretch 
from Old Tower Hill to the tall peak of Berlin Mt. This road passes 
through the villages of Lanesboro, New Ashford, and S. Williamstown. 
'i’lie railroad crosses Lanesboro (station, Berkshire, near Pontoosuc Lake), 
a town Avliich has beds of snow-white granular quartz, used in the 
manufacture of superior cylinder-glass. Variegated marble also abounds 
here, with iron and limestone. Savage Mt. and Constitution Hill are pic¬ 
turesque and far-viewing heights. H. W. Shaw was born here in 1818, 
and has since 1863 attained a high reputation as a humorist, under the 
name of “ Josh Billings.” The line here enters the valley of the Hoosac 
River, avliich it follows to N. Adams. Cheshire is the next town, in a 
fertile alluvial valley surrounded by lofty hills. This town is famous for 
its dairies, and in 1802 its people sent as a New Year’s gift to President 
Jefferson a mammoth cheese weighing 1,450 pounds. Before reaching 
Cheshire Harbor the great Saddle-Back Range begins, on the W., about 2 

M. from the track. A road leads from Cheshire Harbor E. into Savoy, 
a wild mt. town, with one small village called Savoy Hollow (Green Mt. 
House), 7 M. from Adams (861 inhabitants). 

Adams (the birthplace of Susan B. Anthony) is next reached. From 

N. Adams a new and picturesque carriage-road runs to the top of the ma¬ 
jestic Greylock Mt. which towers over the valley. This is the highest mt. 
in Mass, anu commands a *view ‘'immense, and of amazi g grandeur.” 


7 * 


154 Route 23. 


THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


The road runs W. and then N., crossing a spur of the mt., from which 
pretty views of the valley of the Hoosac and its villages are gained. De¬ 
scending now over a very rough road, the Notch (sometimes called the 
Bellows Pipe, from the gusts which draw through it) is entered. The 
mt. just crossed is called Mt. Hawks. At Walden’s house the Notch 
road is left, and Mt. Williams is rounded on its N. side, then the clearing 
between Mts. Williams and Prospect is passed ; the long W. slope of a 
ridge is ascended, and alter a southerly walk the summit is attained. A 
straighter and simpler, though less picturesque, way is right up the S. 
slope from Adams. (See page 157.) 

The summit of Greylock is partially cleared, and overlooks the valley of the 
Hoosac on the N. with its villages, and the peaks of the Green Mts. beyond. N. 
of E. and S. of E., nearly 60 M. away, are Mts. Monadnock and Wachusett: due 
S. E., nearly 40 M. distant, are Mts. Tom and Holyoke. Southward are the many 
peaks of the Berkshire Hills, bounded by Mt. Everett, with Pittsfield and its 
lakes, and other villages and towns. S. W. are the Catskills, and it is thought that 
the Mts. in the N. W. are those which environ Lake George. Saddle Mt. and 
Saddle Ball are close to Greylock, and respectively N. and S. The paths to the 
summit of Greylock are difficult and easily, lost, and the excursion will require a 
long day. 

North Adams ( Wilson House, S15 to S30 a week; Mansion House , $10 
to $14) is a prosperous manufacturing village, on the Hoosac River. It 
has cotton and woollen mills, and various other industries, employing 
2,200 hands, and turning out $5,000,000 worth of goods a year. Some 
neat villas and a fine high-school house have been built, also a soldiers’ 
monument and several churches. The population is 16,074 (in 1890). 

Adams, on the S., has 10,000 inhabitants, and large mills for making 
paper and cotton and woollen goods. 

About 1 M. from the village (to the E.) is the Natural Bridge, on Hudson’s 
Brook, where the waters have worn a passage through the solid rock 30 rods long 
and 15 ft. wide, leaving an arch of stained marble above it at a height of 30-60 
ft. This cavernous passage was a favorite resort of Hawthorne, who spent the 
summer of 1838 at N. Adams, and often bathed in the waters of the brook. “ The 
cave makes a fresh impression upon me every time I visit it, — so deep, so irregular, 
so gloomy, so stern ; part of its walls the pure white of the marble, others covered 
with a gray decomposition and with spots of moss, and with brake growing where 
there is a handful of earth. I stand and look into its depths at various points, 
and hear the roar of the stream re-echoing up. It is like a heart that has been 
rent asunder by a torrent of passion, which has raged and foamed, and left its 
ineffaceable traces ; though now there is but a little rill of feeling at the bottom.” 

The Cascade in Notch Brook is about l£ M. from the hotel, and has a fall of 30 ft. 
It is situated in a pretty glen. 

From the hill E. of the village are “ various excellent views of mt. 
scenery, far and near,” with “ Greylock, appearing, with its two summits 
and a long ridge between, like a huge monster crouching down slumber¬ 
ing, with its head slightly elevated.” Other fine prospects are gaiued 
from the various hills which surround the village. 

Main St. contains several good commercial buildings, and at its end is 
a group of handsome churches. Daily stages run from N. Adams N. E. 


HOOSAC TUNNEL. 


Route 23. 155 


Daily stages run from N. Adams N. E. 5 M. to Stamford, Vt., and 11 M. 
to Heartwellville; also S. from Williamstown to S. Williamstown, 4M.; 
New Ashford, 8; and Lanesboro, 15. Stanford {Paradise lluiel) is a 
pretty village, near the Basin of the Green Mts. 

The mountain-towns in this region are full of picturesque scenery, but 
are mournfully decadent, having been drained by Western emigration. 

2 M. S. of N. Adams (street-cars) is Zylonite (Zyhmite Hotel), where GOO 
operatives make from linen paper, camphor, and alcohol the article called 
zylonite, a substitute for ivory in combs and brushes, handles, collars, etc. 

The W. end of the * Hoosac Tunnel is lr^ M. S. E. of N. Adams, and 
the tunnel is lighted by electricity. This stupendous work was 20 
years under process of excavation, and cost the State about $16,000,000. 
It is 4f M. long, and cuts through the Hoosac Ml., whose vast bulk run¬ 
ning N. and S. closed the wav until the tunnel (in 1874) opened a new 
route, nearer by 9 M. than any other between Boston and the West, and 
of easy grade. The Nerthe Tunnel, in S. France, and the Woodhead 
Tunnel, in England, are each nearly 3 M. long. The cuttings from the 
ends (by power-drills and nitro-glycerine) were met by borings on grade 
from the bottom of a great shaft sunk between the peaks of the Hoosac 
Mt. The mountain is mostly of mica slate, except near the W. end, 
where great trouble was given by a soft and treacherous pudding-stone 
through which a tube of brick 900 ft. long was built. 

Stages often leave N. Adams for the passage of the great Hoosac 
Mt. to the E. end of the tunnel (8 M.). After a long, slow ascent by zig¬ 
zag gradients, the W. crest of Hoosac is gained, with a view of Greylock 
in the S. W. and the broad sweep of the Taconic Hills from the parent 
range in Vermont to the blue and cloudlike southern peaks. Adams 
is plainly visible, and the valley of the Hoosac stretching W., and the 
broad, central valley of Berkshire running S. Descending the slope to the 
plateau, the buildings over the Central Shaft are seen. The lofty and 
winter worn plateau is soon crossed and the E. summit is climbed. 

A noble view is obtained from this point, above the romantic gorge of the 
Deerfield River to Wachusett Mt., “and beyond it the blue and indistinctive 
scene extended to the E. and N. for at least 60 M. Beyond the hills it looked 
almost as if the blue ocean might be seen. Monadnock was visible, like a sap¬ 
phire cloud against the sky. The scenery on the E. side of the Green Mts. is in¬ 
comparably more striking than on the W. where the long swells and ridges have a 
flatness of effect. But on the eastern part, peaks 1 -2,000 ft. high rush up on 
either bank of the river in ranges, thrusting out their shoulders side by side. 
Sometimes the precipice rises with abruptness from the immediate side of the 
river; sometimes there is a valley on either side ; cultivated long and with all 
the smoothness and antique rurality of a farm near cities, this gentle picture is 
strongly set off by the wild mt. frame around it. I have never driven through 
such romantic scenery, where there was such variety and boldness of mt. shapes 
as this ; and though it was a sunny day, the mts. diversified the view with sun¬ 
shine and shadow, and glory and gloom.” (Hawthorne.) 

From Hoosac-Tunnel station (Rice’s Hotel), E. of the mt., trains run 25 M. 
N. up the wild and lonely Deerfield valley, to Wilmington (see Route 80). 



15G Route 2$. THE BERKSHIRE HILLS. 


About 1 M. W. of N. Adams, and beyond the small factory village of 
Braytonville, the road to Williamstown crosses the railroad and the Hoosac 
River. Near this crossing a small elm is seen in a meadow about 20 rods 
from the track. This elm stands on the site of old Fort Massachusetts, 
“the Thermopylae of New England.” (Everett.) 

This was built in 1744 as one of a cordon of forts to protect the frontiers. Foi-t 
Dummer guarded the N. route down the Conn, valley, and this fort was to block 
up the YV. route through the Hudson, Iloosac, and Deerfield valleys. In 1746 
Col. Williams and many men marched hence to Albany to join the army for in¬ 
vading Canada, but meanwhile the enemy had made a flank march, and the Chev¬ 
alier de Vaudreuil attacked the fort at the head of 900 French and Indians. Ser¬ 
geant Hawks and 22 men held the place for 48 hours against this overwhelming 
force, and only surrendered when every grain of powder was exhausted. The 
Franco-Indian force lost 47 men before the fort. 

1£ M. from its railroad station is Williamstown 

a beautiful village situated in a fertile 
valley which is grandly mountain-walled. The reason of Williamstown’s 
being is Williams College, a flourishing institution, with 20 instructors and 
320 students. Morgan Hall, the largest dormitory, was built in 1883. 
Clark Hall is a fine new Norman-arched building, of granite. The Chapel 
contains the Garfield memorial window, by Tiffany and Lafarge, and a 
noble window commemorating Prof. Albert Hopkins. Jackson Hall has 
the natural-history collections and Indian relics: Lawrence Hall (octago¬ 
nal), the library (30,000 volumes), portraits of college professors and pa¬ 
trons, and Nineveh sculptures; Goodrich Hall (a fine stone structure), the 
chemical rooms. Kellogg Hall, S., E., and W. Colleges, the ancient vine- 
covered observatory, the President’s antique mansion, alongside the Cong. 
Church, should be noticed; also the monument to Williams-College alumni 
who died in the civil war. 

The hotels at Williamstown are the Greylock and the Taconie Inn, each 
at $3 a day, $12.50 25 a week. The Bardwell and Hosford Cottages, and 
Bridges’ and Iliekox Farms, also take summer-guests, at $10 a week. 

Col. Ephraim Williams, the founder of Williams College, was born at Newton, 
Mass., in 1715. He was lieut.-colonel of the 8th Massachusetts Reg. at the siege 
of Louisbourg, in 1745, and commanded the trans-Connecticut forts from 1748 to 
1755. In 1755, with his regiment, he joined Gen. Johnson’s army, and while at 
Albany he made a will leaving his estate for the erection of a school in a town to 
be located W. of Fort Mass, to be called Williamstown. Shortly after, while 
marching with 1,200 men to engage Dieskau near Lake George, his command 
was ambushed and overpowered, and Col. Williams was killed. The school was 
established in 1790, in a brick building (the present W. College), and was char¬ 
tered as Williams College in 1793. Its president; have been Dr. E. Fitch (1793- 
1815), Dr. Z. S. Moore (1815-21), Dr. E. D. Griffin (1821 - 36), Dr. Mark Hopkins, 
(1836 - 72), Dr. Paul A. Chad bourne, and Franklin Carter. 

Near W. College is Mission Park, with a marble shaft surmounted by a 
globe, which indicates the place where Samuel J. Mills, “ the Father of 
Foreign Missions in America,” and his companions, consecrated themselves 
to the mission-cause (1807). Mills originated the A. B. C. F. M.,and the 
American Bible Society, and died at sea (after exploring Liberia for a site 
for a colony of freedmen) at the early age of 35. 

About 2 51. N. of the village h the famous Sand Spring, with exton- 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. 157 


sive bathing-houses. The abundant waters maintain a temperature of 
about 70°, and are beneficial in cutaneous diseases. 

illiamstown has 4 churches, and its main street is 1£ M. long and 
16 rods wide, with trees, lawns, and gravel walks. The view from the 
college is grand, and includes the massive Berlin Mt. (2,814 ft.) on the 
W., Dome and East Mis. on the N., Uarksburg Mt. on the N. W., and 
Mt. Hopkins and Prospect Mt. on the S. E. 

Greylock, the highest Mass, mt., overlooks the valley from a height of 
3,o35 ft. (see page 153). Its N. peak, Mt. W illiams, is reached bv Slope 
llawks, from hurt Mass. Slope Norton runs up to Mt. Prospect, the VV. 
peak of the Greylock range, whose chief summit is Simonds Peak. N. of 
the valley is a stately range, crowned by the Dome (in Vt.). On the W. 
is the laconic range, separating Mass, from N. Y., with rough roads cross¬ 
ing the Berlin, Petersburg, Kidder, and Johnson Passes. Mt. Hopkins 
(2,800 ft. high), between the Kidder and Berlin Passes, is often ascended 
for its views of Greylock and the Green Mts., and the Hoosac and Hudson 
valleys (ascend to the S. 1 M. from Berlin road, 5 M. from Williamstown). 
The wildest scenery of Massachusetts is in and around the Hopper, a 
gorge surrounded by a vast amphitheatre of mts. (Bald, Prospect, Grev- 
lock, &c.), striped with cascades. It is entered by a wood-road from the 
highway, 4 M. S. The Oblong Road, the T orrey-Woods Road, the Green- 
River Road, the road to Pownal Pond, are among the pleasant drives oi 
the town. 10 M. from the village is the Snow Glen. In Flora’s Glen 
Bryant composed “ Thanatopsis,” when an 18-year-old student. 

S. Williamstown (Sabin House), 5 M. S., midway between Greylock 
and Berlin Mt., is a beautiful rural hamlet, the seat of the famous Grey¬ 
lock Institute (boys’ school; founded 1842). 

The Troy and Boston R. R. runs to Troy, in New York, 44 M. from “beautiful 
Williamstown on her classic heights.” 

24. New York to Quebec. 

Also New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield to Montreal, Quebec, and the 
Franconia Mts. Distances, New York to Quebec, 526 M. ; to Lake Memphrema- 
gog, 365 M. ; New Haven to Quebec, 453 M. ; Hartford to Quebec, 417 M. ; 
Springfield to Quebec, 391 M ; Springfield to Lake Memphremagog, 229 M. 

The line between New York and Springfield is described in Route 21. 
In the station at Springfield the traveller leaves the New York and Bos¬ 
ton train, and gets into the cars of the Conn. River R. R. Time is usually 
allowed for dinner (restaurant in station ; Massasoit House, close by). 

Station, Chicopee ( Cabot House), at the confluence of the Chicopee 
and Conn. Rivers, with 14,000 inhabitants and a handsome town-hall, 
adorned by a turreted clock-tower 150 ft. high. Here are the Dwight 
Co.’s and other cotton-mills, with 140,000 spindles and 1,600 operatives, 
woollen-mills, and smaller factories of various kinds. The Ames Manu¬ 
facturing Co. employs 500 men in making machinery, brass cannon, 
fine swords, and 'bronze statuary. The equestrian statue of Wash- 


158 Route 24. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


ington, at Boston, many soldiers’ monuments, and the superb bronze 
doors of the Senate at Washington were cast here. The doors of the 
House of Representatives were cast at Munich, and those of the Senate 
were to have been made there, but the over-prudent Bavarians demanded 
prepayment from the U. S. Government (it was the darkest year of the 
Secession War). With a proper spirit this was refused, and the work 
was given to the Chicopee Foundry, though but little was hoped from it. 
To the surprise of all, the doors were finished admirably, and challenge 
comparison with the best of Munich work. During the Rebellion, this 
foundry was worked night and day, and supplied the Republic with vast 
amounts of shot and shell, and over 1,000 cannon. 

At Chicopee Falls, 2 M. E., are cotton-mills employing 1,000 hands, 
besides large factories which make farmers’ tools. 

Station, Willimansett, about 2 M. above which is the manufacturing 
village of »S '.-Hadley Falls (small hotel), opposite Holyoke and endowed 
with a great water-power. Much of the intervale land here and in 
the adjacent town of Hadley is used for the cultivation of tobacco, a 
profitable crop. After leaving Willimansett, the line crosses the 
broad Connecticut and stops at Holyoke (* Windsor Hotel; Samoset 
House). This is a rapidly growing manufacturing city of 06 ,000 inhab¬ 
itants. at Hadley Falls, which furnish the greatest water-power in New 
England. Timothy Dwight speaks of “the fantastic beauty, and sublime 
majesty of these Falls. Within 1 $ M. the river falls 00 ft., and opposite 
the city a dam has been built 30 ft. high and over 1.000 ft. long, throwing 
the water into a canal system 3 M. in aggregate length, which can furnish 
power enough to drive 1 , 000,000 spindles. The original dam of 1817 was 
burst away before the water had filled it, and the present one (18-19) con¬ 
tains 0 , 000,000 ft. of lumber, spiked to the ledges on the bottom of the 
river, and plated with boiler-iron. The leading product of Holyoke is 
paper, made bv 3,500 men in 20 factories (178 tons of paper are made 
daily). Holyoke is the chief paper-making city of the world. There are 
2,800 operatives in the cotton-mills, 800 make thread, 450 make beavers 
and cassimeres, 500 work on machinery, and others make alpacas, wire, 
cutlery, rubber, screws, silks, &e. 

Holyoke is surrounded on three sides by the river, and has broad and 
pleasant streets, with 13 churches, 4 national and 3 savings banks, a daily 
paper, and a public library. The handsome new *City Hall cost 
$340,000, and is of rough-split granite, with a tower 215 ft. high, con¬ 
taining a memorial room with a richly stained window. The large inner 
hall seats 1,300, and has elaborate stained windows. The Soldiers’ Monu¬ 
ment is a statue of the Goddess of Liberty holding a laurel wreath. 

Mt. St. Vincent (formerly Ingle side), the Sisters of Charity orphanage, is 
beautifully situated and attracts many visitors. Mt. Nonotuck {Eyrie House) 
is a notable view-poiut (see page 160). 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. 159 


The railroad passes out in full view of the great dam, whose fine water* 
fall has been removed by the necessity of building out an inclined plane, 
to prevent the eating out of the ledges by the heavy perpendicular fall. 

After leaving Holyoke the line runs N. between the river and the long 
range of Mt. Tom (on the 1.), while J It. Holyoke is seen ahead on the r. 
The train now passes through the gap between these two mts., and Am¬ 
herst and Mt. Warner are visible on the r. front, leagues away over the 
rich valley, while Easthampton and Pomeroy’s Mt. are seen on the 1. 
The line crosses the river to Ox Bow Island, which was a peninsula until 
1840, when a rush of the swollen river cut through its isthmus. After 
crossing the rich intervales bordering on the river, the train enters 
Northampton {The Norwood , $10 to $20 a week). 

Nonotuck was bought of its Indian owners, in 1653, for 100 fathoms of wampum, 
10 coats, &c., and was named Northampton, since many of its settlers came from 
that English town. Solomon Stoddard was for 56 years pastor here, and was a 
man of grave and majestic appearance. He rode once through an ambush in the 
forest, and when the French soldiers were about to shoot him, the awe-struck In¬ 
dians stopped them, saying, “That is the Englishmen’s God.” The village was 
surrounded by a palisade and wall, which, however, was stormed in three places 
by King Philip’s Indians (1676). Three veteran companies were defending the 
place, and after a desperate conflict in the streets the assailants were driven out. 
The church was built in 1655, at a cost of £ 14, and was 26 ft. by 18. The present 
stone church is the fifth on that site. The Christians were called to meeting by 
the blasts of a trumpet: 

“ Each man equipped on Sunday morn. And looked in form, as all must grant. 
With psalm-book, shot, and powder-horn. Like th' ancient true church militant.” 

McFjngal. 

In the old cemetery are buried 4 Senators of the United States, — Ashmun, Mills, 
Bates, and Strong, the latter of whom was for 11 years Gov. of Mass., and. oppos¬ 
ing the War of 1812, limited the exertions of the State to her own defence. Here 
also is buried David Brainerd, a heroic and powerful missionary to the Indians, 
author of “Mirabilia Dei apud Indicos,” and son-in-law of Jonathan Edwards. 
Edwards was pastor here, 1727-50, and “was dismissed for insisting on a higher 
and purer standard of admission to the communion table.” The Dwights, Allens, 
and Tappans were Northampton families prolific in able men, and W. D. Whit¬ 
ney, the leading American philologist (one of the finest Sanscrit scholars in the 
world) was bora here in 1827. 

Northampton ( Mansion House) “ is the frontispiece 

of the book of beauty which Nature opens wide in the valley of the 
Connecticut.” An English tourist (Stuart, in 1833) calls it “the 
most beautiful village in America.” Its broad and shaded streets and 
handsome villas are placed in a rich tract of broad intervale and about 1 
M. from the river. There are a number of stores and public buildings on 
the broad street near the spacious and comfortable Mansion House, and 
in this vicinity is the brownstone building occupied by the Trustees of the 
Smith Charities. 

Oliver Smith, of Hatfield, died in 1845, leaving $370,000 for charitable objects. 
The youths and maidens and widows of the eight adjacent towns receive, under 
certain conditions, loans, dowries, and small pensions from this fund. By skill¬ 
ful management on the part of the Trustees (who are chosen by electors from the 
eight towns), the funds had increased by 1802 to 81,300,000, and by the terms of 


160 Route 24. 


MOUNT HOLYOKE. 


Mr. Smith’s will, a part of this is to be devoted to the establishment ot an agricul¬ 
tural school in this town in the year 1905. 

Smith College is at Northampton, and was endowed in 1871 by Miss Sophia 
Smith, for the higher education of women. Its property is valued at &525,000. 
The main buildiug is surrounded by the houses of the students, Music llall, the 
Gymnasium, &e. The llillyer Art Gallery contaius many interesting paintings and 
casts, and a number of studios The handsome seeular-Gothic buildiugs are ad¬ 
mirably placed, on a hill, behiud a fringe of elms. There are 500 students and 10 
Instructors. Two large public libraries are near by. 

On the beautiful and far-viewing Hound llill, VV. of the city, among noble groves 
and lawns, stand the buildiugs loug occupied by the celebrated classical school, 
the Massachusetts Eton, founded iu 1823 by George Bancroft, the historian, and 
J. G. Coggswell, the author. The views thence are very extensive and pleasing. 
On the same hill is the Clarke Institution for Deaf Mutes (endowed with $ 300,000), 
which teaches the system of articulatiou in place of the sign alphabet. It accom¬ 
modates 90 persons. 1 M. S. W. of the city is the * State Lunatic Asylum, 
with imposing buildiugs which accommodate 350 patients. These buildiugs are 
512 ft. loug, and have 4 acres of floors. 

Northampton became a city in 1883. It has about 15,000 inhabitants, and a 
valuation of $ 8,000,000. Its manufactures amount to $ 3,000,000 a year, employ¬ 
ing 1,600 persons. 

Florence is 21 M. W. of the city, and is the seat of several factories, the chief 
of which is the Nonotuck Silk Co , employing 500 hands. 

Goshen ( Highland House; Lyman’s) is a summer-frequented hill-town, 6 M. 
by daily stage from Williamsburg. 

Mt. Nonotuck, the E. peak of the Mt. Tom range, is ascended from Mt.-Tom 
station by a road and path, and has the Eyrie House (25 cts. entrance) on its far- 
viewing summit. A steam-ferry crosses the Connecticut from Mt. Tom to Mt. 
Holyoke. 

*Mt. Holyoke, “the gem of Mass, mts.,” is 2 M. S. E of North¬ 
ampton. A carriage-road winds up from the ferry to the mountain rail¬ 
way, up which passengers are drawn in small cars by a stationary engine 
($ 1 up and down ; 50 cts. to walk). Upon the summit a small hotel was 
built in 1821, whose site is now occupied by the Prospect House. 3 -4,000 
persons ascend the mt. evert' season. The carriage road is if M. long, and 
the railway, in its 600 ft. of incline, rises 305 ft. perpendicular. Between 
the building of the railway in 1854 and its remodelling in 1866, 125,000 
persons ascended on it. The summit is 954 ft. above the sea, and 830 ft. 
above the river, and is part of a greenstone ridge running from West Rock 
at New Haven to Belchertown. The invincible trap-rock of the mount 
resisted the glaciers during their long grinding attacks, but the great lake 
which, according to Indian tradition, tilled the basin to the N., at last 
broke away between Nonotuck and Holvoke, and became a river. West¬ 
ern Mass, is underlaid with gneiss, but the Conn, valley has a belt of 
coarse, new red sandstone 10-16 M. wide, of the Permian and Triassic 
systems. 

From this peak is “the richest * * view in New England, if not in the 
U. S.” It has often been called, by distinguished visitors, the iinest view 
in America. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. 1G1 


On the S. are seen numerous villages in the valley, Springfield, the graceful 
sinuosities of the broad river, the distant spires of Hartford (40 M.), the Blue and 
the Lyme Mts., and East and West Rocks at New Haven (70 M.). S W beyond 
Mt. Tom, are glimpses of the valley of Westfield River, and on the W. Pom¬ 
eroy’s Mt. and the high hills of Hampshire and Central Berkshire are seen. N. 
W are 8,000 acres of garden-like meadows, with Northampton directly over them, 
and above the village, 42 M. away, is Greylock. “ in dim and misty grandeur.” 
F irtlier to the r. the hills of Franklin County are seen, dominated by Mts Toby 
and Sugar Loaf, while in the far N. the blue peaks of the Green Mts. overlook all. 
Toe great lacustrine basin of the Conn., 20 M. by 15, is nearer, in the N., with fair 
Hadley on its “ plaided meadows,” in a bend of the river, and Hatfield just across 
the river and intervales, under the shadow of Mt. Warner (to the r.). 0 M. N. E. 
is Amherst with its colleges, and beyond, “far in the N. E., rises in insulated 
gr uideur the cloud-capped Monadnock ” (50 M ). In the E. Mt. Wachusett (35 M. 
away) rises above the crowd of hills which fill the E. and S. E. 38 towns are 
seen from this lofty peak, with parts of 4 States. 

There are good views from other peaks of the Holyoke Range (which is 9 M. 
long), and at its W. end are lofty cliffs of columnar basalt which have been named 
the Titan’s Piers. 

The famous Mount Holyoke Seminary is at S. Hadley, which is reached 
by daily stages in 4 M. from S. Hadley Falls, opposite Holyoke. It is a collegi¬ 
ate school for girls, with a 4-years’ coprse and series of lectures ; and has pre¬ 
pared many missionary-women for their labors in heathendom. The Seminary 
was founded in 1836, by Mary Lyon ; and has 30 instructors' and about 260 stu¬ 
dents. The main building is surrounded by trees, and commands a beautiful 
view of the gorge between Mts. Tom and Holyoke, and the Northampton inter¬ 
vales. The library is in a new fire-proof building. The Seminary is also ap¬ 
proached from Northampton, by way of Smith’s Ferry. 

Old Hadley is M. N. E. of Northampton, over the river, and lies on 
the E. of a rich and level intervale, containing 3,000 acres, which is an¬ 
nually overflowed by the river. The Connecticut here makes a curve of 
5 M. to accomplish 1 M. of direct course, and the neck of the peninsula is 
crossed by the street of Hadley. West Street was laid out before the 
settlement as 1 M. long and 20 rods wide, but by the encroachments of 
the river and the inhabitants, it has been reduced to a length of 300 rods 
and a width of about 16 rods. This wide, park-like * street is adorned 
with about 900 ancient elm-trees, 4 lines of which stretch from river to 
river, and is called “ the handsomest street by nature in New England.” 
Middle and East Sts. are also wide and shaded avenues, running N. 
and S. On the meadows near this charming rural village great quantities 
of broom-corn are raised, which, with much of the same material im¬ 
ported from the West, is made into brooms and brushes. This industry 
was commenced in 1790. 'Hie hotel is the Elmwood House. 

In 1650, fierce theological discussions were carried on at Hartford, and many of 
its wealthier families left the place in search of peace and good-will, and settled 
on the Indian domain of Norwottock, which they named in honor of Hadleigh, in 
Suffolk, England. In 1664 Gotfo and Whalley, two generals of the Army of 
Parliament, and judges of the court which put King Charles I. to death, came here 
and lived for 15 years concealed in the pastor’s house. They had been forced to 
fly for their lives after the Restoration, and after 3£ years of hiding about New 
Haven they came to Hadley. Their presence here was only known of by three 
citizens. On Sept. 1, 1675, while the people were assembled in the church, in 
fasting and prayer, the town was attacked by swarms of Indians. After a sharp 
tight, the English gave way, when Gen. Goffe, “an ancient man with hoary locks, 
of u most venerable and dignified aspect,” appeared suddenly, commanded and 


162 Route 24- 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


led a fresh attack Viy the people, and scattered the dismayed Indians in all direc¬ 
tions. He then disappeared to his hiding-place, and the astonished villagers, for 
many years, attributed their deliverance to the visit of a militant angel. Gen. 
W'Ualley died here in 1670 The foregoing is the chief local legend. 

I 11 ioi(J 70J Indians attacked the town just after the Falls Fight, but after a 
long and bitter struggle they were repelled with severe losses. 

F 1). Huntington, Episcopal Bishop of Central New York, was a native of this 
village. Joseph Hooker, “ Fighting Joe,” was born at Hadley in 1815. He was 
distinguished at the battles of Monterey and Chapultepec, in the Mexican War, 
and bore high commands during the Secession War. At Antietam, he commanded 
the r. of the army, and afterwards, at the head of the Army of the Potomac, he 
was defeated in a long and terrible battle at Chancellorsville, Va., losing 10,000 
men. In 1803-4 he did brilliant service in the battles resultant on the reoccu¬ 
pation of Georgia and Alabama by the National armies. 

Easthampton (seepage 110) is 4 M. S. W. of Northampton. Amherst (see page 
100 ) is M. N. E. (daily stages) by a road which crosses the river on a bridge 
1,080 ft. long, and passes through Old Hadley. 

Hatfield ( Hatfield House) is a beautiful and Historic village 1£ M. N. 
of Hadley, and 2£ M. E. of Hatfield station (stages from trains). It has 
about 1,200 inhabitants, and is famous for its fat cattle and tobacco- 
crops. The village is on the rich Connecticut intervales, with Horse Mt. 
on the W.; and is connected with JY. Hadley (under Mt. Warner) by a 
ferrv. Hatfield is on the W. side of the river, and Hadlev on the E. 

I 11 1675 Hatfield was attacked hv 800 Indians, but the veteran companies of 
Moseley and Pike fought desperately amid the burning houses, and held out till 
relief came. In 107(5, 00U Indians made a bold and disastrous attack ; and in 
1677 the palisade was stormed and 26 persons were killed and captured. 

After leaving Northampton, the Conn. River Railroad passes near the 
Great Bend of the Conn, in sight of Old Hadley (to the r.), then diverges 
from the river, which is not seen again for 30 M. Station, Hatfield, be¬ 
yond which the track runs near the base-line of the State Trigonometrical 
Survey (39,009.73 ft. long), which is laid along the plains of Hatfield and 
Whately (on the r.). Stations, N. Hatfield and Whately (Whately 
House), whose village is seen in the W. Beyond the village is the far- 
viewing Mt. Esther, and the picturesque Whately Glen, with its cascades. 

The train passes Sugar Loaf Mt. and stops at S. Deerfield (small hotel). 
A road leads from the village to the Mountain House, on the summit of 
the conical S. peak of Sugar Loaf Mt., which rises sheer from the 
meadows and near the river. From this point is visible the broad, rich 
valley, with its villages of Amherst, Hadley, Hatfield, Northampton, and 
several others, with Holyoke seen beyond the Titanic gateway between 
Nonotuck and Mt. Holyoke. Close at hand on the E. is Sunderland, 
under the shadow of Mt. Toby. (See page 102.) 

The ricli and peaceful valley seen from Sugar Loaf was the scene of the bloodiest 
tragedies of King Philip’s and the later Indian wars. King Philip directed the 
movements of the western Indians from his head-quarters on this peak, — so runs 
tradition. Table Rock is a beetling cliff on the E. side, beneath which Is a seat 
cut in the rock, called King Philip’s Chair (see Bristol, R. I.). A sharp skirmish 
took place just S. of the Mt., in August, 1675, when 26 Indians and 10 colonists 
were killed. 

In the N. part of S. Deerfield village is a monument on the Bloody Brook battle¬ 
field. Sept. 18, 1675, Capt. Lathrop and 84 men were convoying a traiu of grain- 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24. 1G3 


wagons from ruined Deerfield to Iladley, and as they passed over a small lrrook, 
they stopped to rest and j>ick the wild grapes which hung in clusters over its 
waters. While thus disbanded, they were suddenly attacked by 700 Indian 
warriors. Lathrop ordered his men to take refuge behind the trees and fire from 
their shelter, but they were speedily enveloped by the enemy, and but 7 men es¬ 
caped the general massacre, which included the teamsters and reapers and 76 
soldiers. Capt. Moseley, “an old Jamaica buccaneer,” marched rapidly to the 
sound of the volleys, and charged and recharged in solid company front through 
the heathen swarms. Major Treat and 100 Mohegan and Pequot Indians (allies of 
the English) also marched up from Hadley, and 96 of the hostile warriors were 
killed on the field. 

A rude monument was soon erected here, and in 1835 the people of 5 towns as¬ 
sembled and dedicated a fine marble monument, with an address by Edward 
Everett. 

“ In the country, districts that nestle in the dells seem to have been there for 
ten centuries at least; and it gives one a shock to light on such a place as Bloody 
Brook, and to be told that only 200 years ago Capt. Lathrop was slain here by 
Red Indians, wi.h 80 youth, ‘the flower of Essex County,’ as the old Puritan 
histories say.” (Sir Charles Dilke.) 

About 5 M. N. passing (on the r.) the monument, and then the long 
ridge of Deerfield Mt., the line approaches the Deerfield River, and stops 
at Old Deerfield (Pocomtuck House; Everett). This place was settled hy¬ 
men of Dedham in 1670, on the Indian domain of Pocomtuek, and was 
named from the abundance of deer found in its forests. 

Sept. 1, 1675, the village was attacked and burnt, and then abandoned. It was 
a ter harvesting its deserted fields that such disaster befell at Bloody Brook, “ a 
choice company of young men, the very flower of Essex County, none of wliome 
were ashamed to speak with the enemy in the gate.” In 1694 a fresh attack was 
made,.but it was repulsed by the people, headed by their pastor, Rev. John Wil¬ 
liams. Feb. 29, 1704, while the watch was sleeping, and the snow had drifted 
over the palisades, 2 hours before daylight, the place was attacked by Major de 
Rouville, with 340 French and Indians. The walls were easily passed, and a ter¬ 
rible scene of slaughter, pillage, and conflagration ensued, which lasted for three 
hours. But one house escaped, and its loopholes were guarded by 7 bold colo¬ 
nists, whose wives were casting bullets for their guns. 47 English were killed, 
and 112 taken prisoners. A few escaped, and alarmed the lower towns, and Hat¬ 
field sent a force in pursuit, which overtook and was defeated by De Rouville on 
the same day. Mrs. Williams was murdered in the Leyden Gorge, and other 
weakly captives soon shared her fate. On the first Sunday of their march north, 
Rev. John Williams preached from the text, “My virgins and my young men 
are gone into captivity.” Arrived in Canada, the prisoners were forced to attend 
Roman Catholic services, and Mr. Williams was offered his freedom, a pension, 
and his children, if he would join that church. He sternly refused, but ‘2S of his 
people chose to remain in Canada, and joined the Roman Church, “ whence kindl ed 
blood now rattles bad French in Canada or sputters Indian in the N. and N. W." 
The captives were kindly treated by the French, and 60 of them were redeemed 
in 1706. The pastor's little daughter, Eunice (7 years old), who was kept by the 
Indians, afterwards married an Indian and became a Catholic, and often in after 
years made visits to Deerfield with her tribe. Not one iota of regard for the cus¬ 
toms of civilized life, or for the tenets of the Puritan Church, remained in her 
heart. De Rouville attacked Deerfield again in 1709, but was handsomely re¬ 
pulsed. In 1861 - 5 the town sent out 320 soldiers. 

Stages run from S. Deerfield 2 M. to Sunderland, a quiet riverside hamlet 
near the foot of Mt. Toby, to whose summit a road has been made, with a tower 
(63 ft. high) and hospice on top. The view thence is one of the noblest in New 
EnglandT “ It is hard to tell which mt. view is finest, from Holyoke, Tom, Sugar 
Loaf or Toby. If you add the woudertul view from the Spriugfield Armory tower, 
and ’that from Talcott Mt., you have an array of mt. views unsurpassed between 
tue Atlautic Ocean and the Rocky Mts.” Daily stages also run W. 6 M. to Con¬ 
way {Conway House), a prosperous farming-town; and Aslifield (Ashjietd 
House), the mouutaiu-home of Geo. Wm. Curtis and Chas. Eliot Norton. 


1 G4 Route 24- 


BELLOWS FALLS. 


Deerfield has 2,900 inhabitants, a soldiers’ monument, 4 libraries, and 6 churches 
Tobacco, hay, and grain grow on the rich meadows; and cutlery and brooms are 
made Among its natives were Richard Hildreth, tlie historian ; Edward Hitchcoek, 
the geologist; Bishop John Williams ; Gen. Rufus Saxton ; and George V'uller, the 
artist. J. W Champney. the celebrated artist, luus his home at Deerfield; and 
Elbridge Kingsley lives at Hatfield. 

Memorial Hall is the old Deerfield Academy, built in the last century, remodelled, 
and occupied by a fine museum of ^evolutionary and colonial relics, Indian weapons 
and other curiosities, spinning-wheels, ancient furniture and utensils, the great 
door chopped into by an Indian tomahawk in 1704, and a cannon brought here 
(probably) by Gov. Ilelcher, in 17135 

Old Deerfield is the pleasantest part of the town. Here are the summer boarding¬ 
houses of Mrs. John Stebbins and Mrs. Christopher Stebbins. 

Just beyond Deerfield the railroad crosses the Deerjitld River. 

Station, Greenfield (see Route 25). From this place the line runs N. 
E. to Bernardston , a small village under the shadow of West Mt. This 
cold and lofty town was granted in 1736 to the veterans of the Falls 
Fight. A few min. after passing Bernardston the train comes in sight of 
the Conn. River, and reaches the station-house at *5. Vernon, the terminus 
of the Conn. River Line. 

The train now passes on the rails of the Central Vermont R. R. Sta¬ 
tions, S. Vernon, Vernon, and Brattleboro, see Route 12. Beyond 
Brattleboro are the stations, Dummerston, Putney, E. Putney, and West¬ 
minster, which pertain to small hill-villages. In Putney are long strata 
of roofing-slate; and the rare mineral called fiuor spar (of a rich emerald 
green) is found in the E. of the town. In 1755 a strong timber fort was 
built on the Great Meadows in Putney, which protected the settlement 
until the conquest of Canada rendered it unnecessary. All the inhabitants 
lived in the fort in small hotises. 

At Westminster occurred a sharp skirmish in the course of “ the contest be¬ 
tween Puritan and Patroon ” (as the struggle of Vermont against the royal edict 
which gave her to New York has been termed). The royal New York judges were 
to hold court here, but the citizens captured the Court-House, March 13, 1775, 
and were only dislodged by an attack at midnight. 

The oldest church in Vermont is in this village (1 M. S. of the station). It was 
built in 1770, and has been secularized. Across the river from Westminster is the 
old frontier town of Walpole (see Route 26). 

Station, Bellows Falls (* Island House). This was a favorite Indian 
resort because of the great numbers of salmon and shad near the rapids. 
8 rods S. of the old bridge, on the W. bank, Schoolcraft found Indian 
hieroglyphs on the rocks, which he thinks are the records of some ancient 
battle. The village was named for Col. Bellows, the founder of Walpole, 
and great-grandfather of Dr. II. W. Bellows. The river falls 42 ft. 
within i M. near the village, and forms white and impetuous rapids, 
dashing between and among the rocks which strew the river-bed. In 
low water the current is compressed into a channel of 16 ft. in width, 
between two large rocks. A canal ^ M. long has been built around the 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24. 165 


falls, and on the water-power thus afforded, several factories are located. 
Opposite the falls is Mt. Kilburn, a wooded eminence which gives a pretty 
view of the river and village. The old name of this hill was Fall Mt., 
but President Hitchcock and a large delegation of students from Amherst 
and Middlebury Colleges met here in 1856, and named it Mt. Kilburn, in 
honor of a brave frontiersman. The Fall Mt. House is situated at the 
foot of this eminence. 

Pleasant excursions are made by the summer visitors here, to Warren’s Pond, 
in Alstead, N. H. ; to the Abenaquis Mineral Springs; and to Westminster. 

From Bellows Falls the Cheshire R. R. run ; S. E. to Fitchburg and Boston (114 
M ), and the Central Vt It R. goes to Burlington (143 M. See page 181). Daily 
stages to Alstead (3 M ), Marlow (13 M.), Acworth, Lenipster, Grafton, &c. 

The train crosses the Conn. River into the State of New Hampshire, 
and runs through the long river-town of Charlestown , with 3 pleasant 
villages and 3 inns. 

This town was settled under the authority and by the people of Massachusetts, 
in 1740, and was named Number Four. A garrisoned fort was located here, and 
between 1746 and 1760 the enemy committed many depredations in the vicinity. 
The fort was formally besieged in August, 1746, and after a successful defence, the 
garrison and colonists abandoned the place. In 1747, Capt. Stevens reoccupied it 
with 30 men, under orders from the Mass, government. He was soon attacked by 
Debeline, a skilful partisan, with 400 French and Indians, who besieged the Fort for 
three days, exhausting every appliance of craft and tactics. Debeline threatened 
to massacre the garrison unless they surrendered, but they sent back a defiant 
answer, and a long and desperate attack followed. The heroic handful of pro¬ 
vincials multiplied themselves and repelled the attacks on every side, until the 
enemy withdrew and retreated to Canada. Capt. Stevens was highly honored by 
the people, and Commodore Sir Charles Knowles, whose ship then lay at Boston, 
sent him an elegant sword. When the tract was resettled, it was called Charles¬ 
town, in honor of Sir Charles. During the later French wars this was the prin¬ 
cipal station on the military road between the New England coast and Ticonderoga 
and Montreal. The remains of the Fort were plainly perceptible in 1810. 

Charlestown village is situated between two broad, rich meadows, and 
has some neat buildings, on a long, wide, well-shaded street. “ Its se¬ 
cluded loveliness is calculated to awaken the admiration of the traveller.” 
Across the river is the town of Springfield (Springfield House), on the 
Black River, which falls 110 ft. in GOO ft., with one sheer fall of 50 ft. 
Stages 4 times daily (8 M.). 

Station, Claremont Junction , soon after leaving which the line crosses 
Sugar River by a bridge 600 ft. long and 105 ft. above the water. The 
rich intervales of the Conn, are now crossed, with Ascutney Mt. on the 
1 ., and the train passes over the river on a bridge whose predecessor was 
carried away by ice in 1866. Station, Windsor (Windsor House), a pretty 
village on highlands over the river and near the foot ot Ascutney. It is 
a flourishing town, with some manufactures and a large country trade. 
It has 4 churches, a bank, 2 weekly papers, a fine Government building 
used for U. S. Courts and Post Office, and the Vermont State Prison 
(which usually has 90 prisoners). At Windsor, during a fearful 


1C6 Route 24. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


thunder-storm, and with the appalling news of the fall of Fort Ticonde- 
roga ringing in their ears, the deputies of the Vermont towns adopted the 
constitution of the State, July 2, 1777. 

Ascutney Mt. lies S. W. of the village. A roacl has been constructed to the 
summit (5 M.), and a small house has been built there for a shelter. Horses and 
guides from the Windsor House. A line view is obtained from this isolated 
peak, which is 3,320 ft. above the sea. In the W. and N. W. are Shrewsbury and 
Killington Peaks, near Rutland, while the Green Mt. chain runs off to the N. in 
a long line of rounded summits. The hill towns of Windsor Co. are seen in the 
N., and the Conn. River and valley close at hand in the E. stretch away to the 
N. and S. through a pleasant farming country. Croydon, Sunapee, and Kearsarge 
Mts. are seen in the E., the latter being dimly outlined on the horizon. The In¬ 
dian name Ascutney means “ Three Brothers,” and is supposed to refer to three 
singular valleys which run down the W. slope of the Mt. There are marks of 
volcanic action here, and the early settlers often saw a lurid light hanging over 
the summit on winter nights. Daily stages run to Cornish and Plainfield, N. II. ; 
also to W. Windsor, Reading (12 M.), and Proctorsville (22 M.). 

Salmon P. Chase was born at Cornish in 1808. Ilis uncle, Dudley Chase, was 
U S. Senator, 1813-17, and 1825 - 31 ; and his uncle, Philander Chase, was Prot.- 
Epis. Bishop of Ohio, In 19 - 31. and of Illinois in 1835 - 52. (These three, together 
with their brothers, Baruch and lleber Chase, were born at Cornish, and graduated 
from D irtmouth College.) He settled in Ohio about 183d in the practice of law, be¬ 
came a leader in the anti-slavery movement, and was U. S. Senator, 1840-55, and 
Governor of Ohio, 1855 - 59. In 1801 he became Secretary of the U S. Treasury, 
and rendered great service to the Union by his skilful financial policy during the 
Rebellion. He resigned in 1864, and was made Chief Justice of the United States. 
Mr. Chase died in 1873. 

Wrn. M Evarts’s estate of Ruunymede is near Windsor. 

Stations beyond Windsor, Ilartland , N. Hartland, and White Paver 
Junction (see Route 29). 

Just after leaving the Junction, the train crosses White River, and 
passes to Norwich, where a large military school called the Norwich 
University was established from 1834 to 1866, when its buildings were 
burnt and the school was removed to Northtield. The village (Newton 
Inn) is about 1 M. W. of the station. Stages from Norwich station run 
to Hanover, about | M. S. E., across the Connecticut River. Ilanover 
(Wheelock House) is the seat of Dartmouth College, which ranks among 
the first of American educational institutions. 

This college was founded here in 1770 by Rev. Eleazer Wheelock, as a school 
for missionaries to the Indians, and for Christian Indians, and had at first 24 
students, domiciled in huts built of green logs, situated in the midst of a vast 
wilderness. 44,000 acres of land were granted to it by the State, which also raised 
a building 150 by 50 ft. for its use, while money was sent to its aid by English 
patrons. The project of educating the Indians was rendered subordinate after a 
careful trial, several Masters of Arts having returned to savage life. The College 
(named for the Earl of Dartmouth, President of its board of trustees) had 150 
students in the year 1790. It has 30 instructors and 440 students. Between 

1771 and 1867 it graduated 3,550 men, 3 of Whom have been U. S. Cabinet M misters : 
15 have been U. S. Senators, and 61 Representatives; 31 Judges of the U. S. and 
State Supreme Courts ; 15 Governors ; 4 Ambassadors ; 25 Presidents of Colleges ; 
104 Professors ; and 800 Clergymen. The degree of LL. D. has been conferred on 
24 alumni, and that of D. D. on 106. “Not to enlarge, with few exceptions, her 
(Dartmouth’s) influence in religion has been emphatically conservative, and her 
sympathies in a national point of view eminently patriotick. She has been the 
nursery of sound divines, devoted missionaries, profound jurists, skilful physicians, 
brilliant statesmen, accomplished scholars, classical and learned writers. Such 
are the worthies she has given to the Union, and on these rest her claims to a 
nation’s gratitude.’’ (Chapman.) 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24- 1 G 7 


Among the most distinguished alumni of Dartmouth were John Wheelock, its 
second President, 1779-1815; Asa Burton ; President Porter, of Andover Semi¬ 
nary; Heuian Allen; Gen. Ripley, the' hero of Niagara and Chippewa; Alvan 
Hyde, D. D., LL. D. ; Amos Kendall ; Senator Levi Woodbury ; Daniel Poor the 
Ceylon missionary ; Judge Joel Parker ; J. B. Felt, the annalist ; B. Greenleaf, the 
arithmetician ; T. C. Upliam, D. D., the metaphysician ; Alpheus Crosby, the 
philol >gist; Nathan Lord, 1). D., the 6th President; and Asa D. Smith, D. D., 
the 7th President of Dartmouth ; J. H. Noyes, the founder of the 

Oneida Community ; C. E. Potter, the author ; John Lord, the historical essayist; 

R. B. Kimball, the author ; Gen. Shepley ; G. P. Marsh, the philologist and diplo¬ 
matist ; Bishops Chase and Dorr : George Ticknor, the historian of Spanish 
literature ; Senator Rufus Choate, the lawyer and orator; Salmon P. Chase, the 
statesman and jurist; and Daniel Webster. 

The famous Dartmouth College case was opened early in the present century by 
the State of N. H. attempting to infringe on the vested rights of the College. 
After much litigation, the case was decided by the State Supreme Court against 
the College. It was then carried by appeal to the Supreme Court of the United 
States, where, after long arguments by the leading lawyers of America, — Daniel 
Webster defending Dartmouth, — the State judgment was reversed, and the College 
was restored to its ancient privileges and independence. 

The buildings front on a pleasant elm-shaded campus, on the upland 
plain. On the N. is the handsome stone Rollins Chapel, built in 1885, 
Romanesque, of red Lebanon granite. Next come the ancient Wentworth, 
Dartmouth (with steeple), Thornton and Reed Halls. On the S. is the 
beautiful round-arched fire-proof Wilson Hall, containing the library of 
70,000 volumes, and the art-gallery, including interesting portraits of Lord 
Dartmouth. Choate, Webster, the college-presidents, and other benefactors. 
To the S. is Kappa Hall, and E is Conant Hall (of the Agricultural College) 
Culver Hall is E. of the line, with a natural-history collection and the State 
museum of minerals. Bissell Hall is the gymnasium. N. W. is the Chand¬ 
ler Scientific School; while the Medical College and the observatory are 
in the vicinity. The beautiful College Park covers .‘54 acres. The scenery 
about this quiet academic village is fine, embracing tall hills to the E. and 

S. , Mt. Ascutney in the S. W., and picturesque upland plains along the 
Conn. River. 


S. C. Bartlett, LL. D., the present President, was an alumnus of Dartmouth, as 
were also Thaddeus Stevens and Geu. Sylvanus Thayer, “ the Father of West Poiut.” 


After leaving Norwich, the train crosses the Ompompanoosuc River, and 
stops at Pompanoosuc, whence large quantities of copperas are shipped 
away, to be made into sulphuric acid. The mines are at Copperas Hill, 
10 M. N. W., and the copperas is separated from other elements by a 
long and difficult process, and precipitated in green crystals. Nearly 400 
tons a year are converted into vitriol in chemical works near Boston, 
while a great quantity of the copperas is used as a mordant in dye- 
factories. 


Distant views of Moosilauke and Bald Mts. are obtained as the train 
approaches Thetford (Slack’s Hotel). Thetford village is 2 M. . of the 
station, and on the E. is the large farming town of Lyme (Hotel Warren), 


to which stages run twice daily. 

Daily stages run N. W. to W. Fairlee (9 M.) and Vershire (15 M.) with its ex¬ 
tensive copper-mines, also to Chelsea, the shire-town. \ ershire had 1,054 inhabi¬ 
tants in 1860, of whom 113 men joined the Union army. Nearly 11 per cent of 
her population was at the front. 

Station N. Thetford , whence much copper ore from Corinth is sent to 


1 G8 Route 24 . 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Baltimore (by water from Portsmouth) and smelted. Station, Fairlee 
and, Orford , the former being a hilly town abounding in lakes, one of 
which is nearly 3 M. long. Pickerel are found in these waters. Just 
across the river from Fairlee is the N. H. town of Orford (stage to Elm 
House), with a beautifully located village which has become a favorite 
summer-home for lovers of tranquillity and rural life. Mt. Cuba and Mt. 
Sunday are near the centre of the town, and there are several large ponds. 
Mt. Cuba is 2,927 ft. high, and has a chain of 5 lakes on its E. 

side. Cube Falls and the perpendicular cliffs of gray granite on Saw¬ 
yer’s Mt. are worthy of notice. 

Station, Bradford (Trotter House), a prosperous manufacturing village 
on Wait’s River. In the N. W. is Wright’s Mt., where one Wright, who 
claimed to be a prophet, had a hermitage in a dismal rocky cleft, now- 
called the Devil’s Den. The town has a scientific association, an academy, 
a weekly newspaper, and a savings-bank. 

Stages run to Corinth , Topsham (13 M. N. W.), Orange (17 M.), and W. Top- 
sham ; aud to the N. II. farming town of Piermont, beyond the Conn. River. 

Stations, S. Newbury and Newbury (small summer boarding-houses). 

This beautiful village stands on a 
terrace above the rich Ox Bow intervales, where a great bend of the 
river nearly insulates a tract of fertile alluvial meadow'-land. Mt. 
Pulaski is near New'burv, and commands a noble view, embracing the 
fruitful and carpet-like Ox Bow meadows, the village of Haverhill, and 
the winding river, with Moosilauke in the S. E., and the Pemigew r asset 
and Franconia Mts. in the E. \ M. from the Hotel are the Newbury 
Sidphur Springs (bath-houses, &c.), in a little glen near the verge of the 
intervale, and a charming twilight walk is that along the borders of these 
level meadow r s, with the sombre mountains beyond. 

This town was founded about 1764 by Gen. Bailey, of Newbury, Mass. During 
the Revolution a detachment of British soldiers came here to take Bailey, but a 
friend went over to the field where he was ploughing and dropped in the furrow a 
note saying, “The Philistines be upon thee, Samson !” On returning down the 
long furrow Bailey saw the note, took the hint, and fled to securer regions. The 
meadows of Cods about Newbury were the home of a large tribe of Indians, who 
tilled the adjacent lands, caught salmon and trout in the rivers, and chased wild 
game through the mountains. These pleasant lands were abandoned in terror 
after Lovewell’s battle in Pequawket. 

The beautiful scenery along the Passumpsic line changes to grandeur as 
the train runs N. Station, Wells River ( Coosuck House), where the 
Concord and Montreal R. R. touches this line on 

its W. angle (20 M. to Littleton. See Route 30). 

The Montpelier & Wells-River R. R. runs thence N. W. 3S M. through a rugged 
and thinly settled country to Montpelier, the capital of the State. Stages 
now run to Ryegate, 5 M. N. W. (Blue Mountain House), a Presbyterian town 
settled in 1774 by a colony of farmers from the Scottish shires of Renfrew and 
Lanark. Blue Mt. is a high granite ridge in the N. W. The road fol- 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. Route 24. 169 

lows up Wells River to Groton (small inn). In the N. W. part of Groton is Long 
Pond, 4 M. long and 1 M. wide, 

which affords good facilities for boating and fishing. This pond is 1,100 ft. above 
the sea, and near it is the pretty Little Pond, 1 M. by £ M. 

Beyond Wells River, the train stops at Mclndoe's Falls, with large 
lumber-mills, and Barnet, a Scotch Presbyterian town, settled in 1775. 
Stages run to Peacham. Soon after leaving Barnet, the line passes near 
the mouth of the Passumpsic River, where Rogers’ Rangers, returning 
from their raid on the St. Francis Indians, failed to find an expected depot 
of provisions. Many of the famishing men died there, while others made 
a cannibal feast on the flesh of a slain Indian. In his disastrous retreat 
from St. Francis to Charlestown, Rogers lost nearly half of his command, 
and it is said that 36 of his men died in 18 hours here. 

Just beyond Barnet (famed for its butter) begin the 15-Mile Falls on 
the Conn. River. Stations, E. Barnet and Passumpsic, with falls on the 
Passumpsic River, which here rolls between black, rocky banks. Station, 
St. Johnsbury (St. Johnsbury House , on the hill ; Avenue House, near 
the station), a busy town of 4,000 inhabitants, with many neat 

villas and large manufactories. It was settled in 1786, and named in 
honor of St. John de Crevecoeur, French Consul at New York, and a bene¬ 
factor of Vermont. The Court House of Caledonia County is a fine 
building, on the hill, directly in front of which is a * Soldiers’ Monument, 
consisting of a statue of America (by Mead), on a pedestal inscribed with 
the names of 6 officers and 74 men from this town, who died in the Seces¬ 
sion War. Near the monument is the Athenavum, with 9,000 volumes in 
a good library building. There is also a reading-room with papers and 
magazines, and an art-gallery, containing 75 fine paintings, among 
which is Bierstadt’s “ Domes of the Yosemite.” The St. Johnsbury 
Academy is a well-attended school, with handsome buildings ; and the 
villas of the Fairbankses are large and stately. The village has 8 churches, 
and 2 banks. The Museum of Natural History has rich collections, in a 
handsome brownstone building. The North Congregational Church is of 
Isle-la-Motte marble, with columns of polished red granite. 

There are manufactures of mowing and threshing machines and other things, 
but the reason of being for St. Johnsbury is the extensive scale factory of E. & T. 
Fairbanks & Co. The works of this company are in a glen on Sleeper’s River, 
and occupy 10 acres of ground. 700 men are employed and 500 varieties of 
scales are made, from the most delicate letter-scales to those huge machines which 
weigh loaded cars and canal-boats (500 tons capacity). In 1830, during the excite¬ 
ment about hemp culture, the Fairbanks brothers established a hemp-dressing 
factory, and Thaddeus invented the platform scale. It was patented in America 
and England, and up to 1861 the company sold 96,658 portable scales, 8,872 hay 
and track scales, and 94,712 counter and even balances. Since 1861 the sales have 
been much greater, proportionally, and in 1869 the yearly sales were stated as 
50,000 small scales, and several hundred hay and platform scales. 125 men are 
engaged in the Fairbanks’ service in other towns and cities ; while the works con¬ 
sume 18 tons of iron daily, in three cupola furnaces. The scales which have been 
made in large quantities for Oriental States are curious, being marked with 
Chinese and Turkish numerals, according to their peculiar systems of weights. 
The St. Johnsbury and Lake Champlain R. R. here crosses the Passumpsic P. R 


170 Route 24. 


WILLOUGHBY LAKE. 


The train runs N. by St . Johnsbury Centre, to Lyndon (Lyndon House; 
daily stages to S. Wheelock, 5$ M. N. W.) and Lyndonville (Union 
House; daily stages to Wheelock, 5 M. N. W., and Sheffield, 7 M.), the 
headquarters of the Passumpsic R. R. In this rich and fertile town are 
the Great Falls of the Passumpsic. 

Station, W. Burke , before reaching which a tine view is afforded o‘ 
the bold Burke Mt. Carriages may be taken hence for the celebrated 
* Willoughby Lake, 6 M. N. The road affords a continual view of the two 
singular mountains between which the lake is situated. The Willoughby- 
Lake House charges $7-14 a week (bowling, liverv, boats, steamboat, 
fishing; no hay-fever). This lake is one of the most remarkable on the 
continent, being situated between two immense mountains, whose bases 
meet far below its waters. The lake is 6 M. long, and in places 2 M. wide, 
while its depth is very great, and not yet known, a line of 100 fathoms 
having run out without finding bottom. The scenery here is wonderfully 
varied and sensational. 

A carriage road along the E. shore, or a boat on the quiet waters, gives 
opportunity to see the beauties of the lake and the grandeur of its sur¬ 
rounding walls. The mountain on the W. shore is called Mt. Hor, and 
is somewhat more than 1,500 ft. above the water. The E. shore mountain 
is called Mt. Willoughby, Pisgah, or Armanance, in different books and 
maps. As Mr. Eastman remarks, Annanance seems more appropriate, 
since that was the name of a brave chief of the St. Francis Indians who 
once lived here. A vast precipice of granite, 2 M. long and 600 ft. sheer 
down, runs along the side of Mount Annanance, while the long slope 
below is rocky and steep. The peak is 2,638 ft. above the lake, and 
3,800 ft. above the sea. From the hotel to the summit of Annanance 
it is a very difficult walk of about 2 M. A vast view over the Conn, 
valley is obtained from this point, extending to the Franconia and 
White Mts. on the S. E., and it is said that the hotels on Mt. Wash¬ 
ington may be seen with a strong glass. On the N. W. are Owl’s 
Head (in Canada) and Jay Peak, from which the stately line of the Green 
Mts. runs S., with the peaks of Mansfield, Camel’s Hump, and Killimr- 
ton (near Rutland) all visible. From the verge of the cliffs on the W. 
Mt. Hor is seen close at hand. Geologists think that the chasm between 
these mountains was caused by the rush of a northern current during the 
drift period, which eat away the decomposed limestone between the two 
granite peaks. Very rare plants and flowers are found on Mt. Anna- 
nance, especially at the “ Flower Garden,” at the foot of the cliffs, 600 
ft. above the Devil's Den, on the lakeside road. The Silver Cascade 
and the Point of Rocks are found farther out on the same road. Trout 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24. 171 


and musealonge abound in the cool crystal waters of the lake. Excursions 
are made from the hotel to Burke ML (10 M. S.), Barton (11 M. W.), 
Plunket Falls (12 M.), and Newark ) 6 M. S. E.), famed for its production 
of sugar from vast forests of sugar-maples. 

Near the flag station at S. Barton the summit is passed, and the water¬ 
shed of the St. Lawrence is entered. Jay Peak is seen in the N. W. Sta¬ 
tion, Barton (Crystal Lake House), a manufacturing village in a town 
named for its first proprietor, Gen. Barton. Crystal Lake (by which 
the track passes) is a pretty sheet of water containing about 2 square 
miles. About H M. distant on the E. is the Flume, where a brook flows 
through a natural passage in the granite rock, 140 ft. long, 10 ft. wide, 
and 20 - 30 ft. deep. The granite walls are smooth and perpendicular. 

In 1810, the people determined to deepen Barton River by turning Long Pond 
(the source of the Lamoille) into it. They had barely completed a channel from 
Long Pond to the pond-reservoir of the Barton River, when its waters burst 
through with tremendous force, and swept down to Lake Memphremagog, wreck¬ 
ing everything in their path, and causing immense damage. The bed of Long 
Pond is now dry, and is called Runaway Pond. 

Barton to Willoughby Lake, 6 M. Fine trout-ponds near village. Daily stages to 
Glover, Albany, and Craftsbury. 

Station, Barton Landing (Valley House), which was much resorted to 
bv smugglers in 1812-15. Stages run 4 M. W. to Irasburgh (Irasburgh 
House), a beautiful rural village. 

Beyond Coventry , the train reaches Newport (* Memphremagog House , 
$2.50 a day, $ 10-17 a week, 300 guests, a first-class hotel on the lake 
shore; Bellevue House ; many families take summer-boarders). This is a 
handsome village of 2,500 inhabitants, the shire-town of Orleans County. 

Lake Memphremagog. 

The village of Newport is at the upper (S.) end of this lake, and is 365 M. from 
New York, “230 M. from Boston, and 164 M. from Quebec. It is built upon 
Pickerel Point, and from the edge of the village rises Prospect Hill, whence 
fine lake views are gained, and the Mts. Owl’s Head, Elephantis, Orford, 
Jay Peak, and Annanance are seen. Other excursions from Newport are to 
Clyde River Falls (2 M.), Mt. Morrill (2 M.), Bear Mt. (7 M.), and Bolton Springs 
(in Canada, 14 M.). Steamers leave every morning from the quay near the great 
hotel, for Magog, returning in the evening. 

The original Indian name of this lake was Memphremagog. or Memplowbowque 
(namespossibly used by different tribes), which is said to mean Beautiful Mater. 
Some see in it a resemblance to Loch Lomond, others to Lake George, while still 
others call it the Geneva of Canada. The lake is 30 M. long and 2-4 M. wide, 
and two-thirds of it lies in Canada. The waters are cold and clear, abounding in 
trout and musealonge, the shores are romantically uneven and rock-bound, and 
tall, wooded mountains rise on either hand. The voyage to Magog, at the V end 
of the lake, usually takes 3-4 hours, nearly 50 M. being traversed. By leaving 
Magog on the afternoon boat (about 4.30 P. M.), a fine sunset on the mountains 
may be seen. 

The steamer passes out by Indian Point, on the E., and a distant view 
of Stanstead village is soon obtained, between the evergreen-covered 
islets known as the Twin Bisters (on the E.). Soon after Province Island 


172 Route 24 . 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


is passed, and the steamer crosses into Canada. The boundary is marked 
by clearings in the forests on either side. Next, on the E., is the small, 
cedar-covered Tea Table Island, and beyond it the Canadian village of 
Cedarville. Bear Mt. looms up on the W. shore, and the scattered farms 
of the town of Potton, while Fitch’s Bay stretches far in shore to the N. 
E. The round summit of Owl’s Head is now approached on the W. 
Magoon’s Point (on the E.) is near a large cavern, where the treasures of 
a cathedral are said to have been hidden. The legend is probably de¬ 
rived from the fact that Rogers’ Rangers retreated down the E. shore of 
Lake Memphremagog, after sacking and destroying the church and village 
of the St. Francis Indians. Besides the rich plate of the church, they 
secured two golden candlesticks, and a silver image weighing 10 pounds. 
The candlesticks were hidden near the lake (no mention is made of the 
disposal of the other articles), and were found in 1816. The steamer 
stops at the Mountain House, 12 M. from Newport, in a sequestered posi¬ 
tion at the foot of Owl’s Head, and near the best fishing-grounds on the 
lake. 

The mountain is ascended by a foot-path (in 2 hours) which passes through 
forests and fields, and by numerous curious rock-formations. The summit is 
2,743 ft. above the lake, and commands a broad view, including the greater part 
of the lake and its islands. On the S. is Newport village and part of the Clyde 
valley, with the nearer summits of Bear Mt. and Hawk Mt., also Jay Peak and 
part of the Missisquoi valley. In the W. are the tall foot-hills of the Green Mts., 
while Brome Lake is seen in the N. W., and far beyond it the city of Montreal is 
visible on a clear day. Nearer, in the same direction, are the ilog's Back and 
Elephantis Mts. Orford Mt. looms at the head of the lake on the N., and in the 
N. W. are the pretty lakes of Little Magog and Massawippi. In the E. are several 
villages in Stanstead and Derby. Mt. Annanance is seen in the S. E. over Wil¬ 
loughby Lake, and, far beyond, the dim blue peaks of the White Mts. rise on the 
horizon-line. The contrast between the rugged country towards Lake Champlain 
and the vast plains to the N., traversed by the glittering rivers St. Lawrence and 
St. Francis, is very great, and an element of rare, beauty is added by the exten¬ 
sive view over the lake below. The path is, by wheel-measurement, 1^ M and 30 
rods long. 

^ M. from the Mountain House is Round Island, which resembles 
Dome Island, on Lake George, or Ellen’s Isle, on Loch Katrine. Farther 
E. is Minnow Island, near which trout abound. Skinner's Island is also 
E. of the hotel, and has on its N. W. side a cavern in the rock, 30 ft. 
long, 10 ft. wide (at the entrance), and 12-14 ft. high. The legend is 
that a celebrated smuggler named Skinner (in 1812) always eluded the 
closest pursuit of the customs officers, by disappearing near this point. 
One night, after a long chase, the officers found his boat on this island, 
and turned it adrift on the lake. Some years afterward a fisherman, 
lying under the lee of the island to escape a squall, discovered the cave, 
hidden under heavy foliage. 

“ And what do you think the fisherman found? 

Neither a polden nor a silver prize, 

But a skull with sockets where once were eyes ; 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


Route 24. 173 


Also some bones of arms and thighs, 

And a vertebral column of giant size ; 

Ilow they got there, he could n’t devise, 

For he’d only been used to commonplace graves. 

And knew naught of “ organic remains ” in caves ; 

On matters like those his wits were dull, 

So he dropped the subject as well as the skull. * 

’T is needless to say 
In this later day, 

’T was the smuggler's bones in the cave that lay : 

All I ve to add is — the bones in a grave 

Were placed, and the cavern was called ‘ Skinner's Cave.’ ” 

N. of this point is Long Island, with palisades 011 its N. W. side, and 
an immense rocking-stone called Balance Rock on the S. shore. Near Mol- 
son's Island, still farther N., is the mansion of a wealthy Montreal gentle¬ 
man. On the W. shore, 1 M. above the hotel, are cliffs 700 ft. high, and 
as the steamer goes N. the sharper outlines of Owl’s Head become prom¬ 
inent. Mt. Elephantis, or Sugar Loaf, is above Owl’s Head on the W. 
shore, and is thought to resemble an elephant’s head and back. Far up 
on the W. slope of Elephantis is a beautiful mountain tarn, 2 M. long by 
\ M. wide, and abounding in trout. The steamer touches at Georgeville 
(Camperdown House), a pretty village on the E. shore, where many 
Canadians pass the summer. The lake is now crossed (3 M.) to Knoivl- 
ton's Landing (16 M. from Newport), at the mouth of Sergeant’s Bay. 
This crossing has long been the main route to Montreal from the Eastern 
Townships (Stanstead County), as stages run from Knowlton’s to the rail¬ 
road station at Waterloo (20 M.). The steamer crosses the mouth of the 
Bay, passes the rocky Gibraltar Point on the 1., and leaves the more 
mountainous part of the lake, heading towards Orford Mt., which is seen 
in the N. A comparatively narrow strait is passed, and then the lake 
widens into a broad expanse, at the end of which is the village of Magog 
(Parks House), a small Canadian settlement, with fine trout-fishing in the 
rapids of Magog River. The latter stream flows through Little Magog 
Lake, and empties the Memphremagog waters into the St. Francis River, 
a noble tributary of the St. Lawrence. 5 M. from Magog (carriage-road 
to the summit) is Orford Mt ., the highest peak in the Eastern Townships. 
Its view embraces Memphremagog and its mts. on the S., Shefford Mt. 
on the W., much of the valley of the St. Francis on the N. E., and the 
waters of 18 lakes. A vast pine forest covers much of the country to the 
N. and W., and Orford Lake, at the base of the mt., has a weirdly dark 
and solitary appearance. Railroads run from Magog to Sherbrooke and 
Waterloo. 


174 Route 24. 


NEW YORK TO QUEBEC. 


The train crosses an arm of the lake after leaving Newport, and enters 
the rich farming town of Derby. Station, A r . Derby (Derby Line Hotel), 
soon after passing which the Anglo-Canadian frontier is crossed. The 
• line now enters the Eastern Townships, of which the riverward parts 
were early settled by the French, while the forest-towns were occupied by 
pioneers from New England between 1790 and 1800. 

The Canadian Hand-Book calls this “ as beautiful a tract of country as perhaps 
any on the continent, botli with regard to mountain and lake scenery, beautiful 
rivers, and fertile valleys. The mountains, wooded generally from base to sum¬ 
mit, repose in majesty ; and as the mists, with which their summits are not un- 
frequently crowned, withdraw themselves in folds along their sides, they reveal still 
more of the beautiful and sublime. Chasms, ravines, and precipices are there, 
and among their solitudes sublimity reigns. Beautiful lakes lie scattered over 
the surface of the country, bordered here by gentle slopes, there by precipitous 
dill's ; cultivated fields and wide-spread pastures, with woods interspersed ; val¬ 
leys and plains adorned with farmhouses, single or in groups, and beautiful vil¬ 
lages.” 

The first Canadian station is Stanstead Junction , whence a short branch 
line runs to Stanstead Plain (4 trains daily), a large and thriving village 
situated on fertile lowlands. 10 M. E. is Pinnacle Lake and Mountain, 
the latter being a remarkable precipitous peak which rises sheer from the 
lake. After passing some minor stations, the train reaches Massawippi, a 
village in Hatley town, near which is the beautiful Lake Massawippi. This 
lake is 9 M. long by 1 -1^ M. wide, and swarms with many kinds of fish, 
among which are muskallonge trout, pike, pickerel, bass, and mullet. 
Blackberry Mt. on the E. shore, abounds in blackberries during their 
season. The train now follows the Massawippi River for 16 M. to its 
confluence with the St. Francis, at Lennoxxille (two inns). This is the 
seat of Bishops’ College, an institute of high reputation, under the care 
of the Episcopal Church, with preparatory schools attached, and a staff of 
able professors. This college has been called “ the Eton and the Oxford 
of Young Canada.” Productive copper and lead mines are worked in the 
vicinity of Lennoxville. 

Station, Sherbrooke (Sherbi'ooke House; Magog House), a manufactur¬ 
ing village prettily situated at the confluence of the Magog and St. Fran¬ 
cis Rivers. There are long rapids in the St. Francis near the village, and 
other fine scenery in the vicinity. Sherbrooke is the metropolis of the 
Eastern Townships, and is the most important station between Montreal 
and Portland. It contains the Compton County buildings, which are 
well situated on a commanding site. 


At Sherbrooke the traveller changes cars, and proceeds to Quebec (121 M.), or 
to Montreal (101 M.). See Route 40. 


WALTHAM. 


Route 25. 175 


25. Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel and Troy. 

"Via Fitchburg. Vt., and Mass., and Troy and Greenfield Railroads, through the 
Hoosac Tunnel to North Adams, 143 M., where connection is made with the Troy 
and Boston, and Boston, Iloosac Tunnel and Western Railroads, for Troy, Albany, 
and Saratoga, making the shortest route from Boston. 

The train leaves the fine castellated granite station of the Fitchburg 
Railroad on Causeway St., near the Warren Bridge to Charles¬ 

town, and soon crosses the tracks of the Boston and Maine, Eastern, and 
Boston and Lowell Railroads, on their long trestles over Charles River. 
Charlestown Heights on the r. and the long hills of populous Boston on 
the 1. are in sight for a few minutes, then the train runs past the stations, 
Union Square, Somerville, Cambridge, Belmont, and Waverley. Near 
the latter station is the finest grove of oaks in New England (see Flagg’s 
“Woods and By-ways”). 

Waltham ( Central House ; Prospect House) comes next, and is an active 
town of about 12,000 inhabitants. Here, in 1814, was erected the first large 
cotton-mill in America, and extensive mills are still in operation here. 
The American Watch Company’s works are the largest in the world en¬ 
gaged in making watches ; upwards of 1,500,000 of these timekeepers have 
been sold in America, their reputation being very high. Every part of 
these popular and justly-celebrated watches is made by machine-work, 
while the works of Swiss watches are formed by hand. The extensive 
buildings of this company are on the banks of the Charles River. 

At Waltham, the track of the Watertown Branch rejoins the main line, after 
passing several petty stations between Waltham and its divergent point at Brick¬ 
yard Junction. Watertown is the most important of these points, while Mount 
Auburn and Fresh Pond are also frequently visited by this route. 

N. P. Banks was born at Waltham in 1S1G. His parents were factory-hands, 
and he himself was for some time a “ bobbin boy.” Applying himself to study, 
journalism, law, and politics, he rose rapidly, and was Member of Congress in 
1853 - 72 and 1865 - 7, Governor of Mass. 1858 - Gl. During the Secession War he 
was a Maj.-Gen., and was defeated by Stonewall Jackson in the Shenandoah Valley, 
after which his army was only saved by its superior fleetness. While command¬ 
ing in Louisiana he took Opelousas and Alexandria, inflicting severe losses on the 
enemy, and then, after a long siege, the Mississippi River fortress of Port Hudson 
was surrendered to his army. In 1864 he advanced far up the Red River, but 
after several sharp, sudden attacks by the Confederate General Dick Taylor, he 
was forced to make a rapid and disastrous retreat with his unwieldy expeditionary 
force. In the Presidential contest of 1872, he joined the Liberal party, and conse¬ 
quently failed to secure a re-election to Congress in that year. 

After leaving Waltham, Prospect Hill is seen on the r., Irom whose sum¬ 
mit (480 ft. high) a fine view is obtained of Boston and its western suburbs. 
The line soon passes into the valley of Stony Brook, and beyond the 
station of that name, stops at Weston, 1 M. N. from the bright upland 
village of Weston. Lincoln is M. S. W. of the village in the centre of 
the town of Lincoln, near which are two large ponds well stocked with 


176 Route 25. BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. 


fish. The train next runs along Walden Pond, on whose shore Thorean 
dwelt (see page 28). At Concord Junction, near the State Reformatory 
for unhardened criminals, the railway from Lowell to S. Framingham and 
Newport (see page 126) is crossed. The next station is S. Acton (American 
House), whence semi-daily stages run to Acton , 2 M. (Monument House) 
and Stow (3 M.); and a railroad diverges 13 M. S. W., by the great Assa- 
bet Mills at Maynard, to Rockbottom, Marlborough, and Hudson, on the 
Mass. Central Railroad. Beyond S. Acton come W. Aeton and Littleton 
(the Indian Nashoba), with many hills and ponds, and prosperous milk- 
farms. 

Ayer Junction (Union House) is a flourishing village and railroad centre- 

The Stony Brook Railroad runs to Lowell (13 M.) down the valley of the Stony 
Brook, passing through the towns of Groton, Westford, and Chelmsford. Westford 
has a quiet village situated on far-viewing heights. 

The Peterboro and Shirley Branch runs to Greenville or Mason Village (N. H.), 
passing through the towns of Groton, Townsend, and Mason. Townsend Harbor 
is a village on the Squanicook River, and Centre & W. Townsend are small villages 
of no importance. Mason Village was set off under the name of Greenville in 
July, 1872, amid general .jubilations and a salute of 40 guns. It is a manufactur¬ 
ing place, situated on the Souhegan River, which has here a fall of 80 ft. in a 
distance of 80 rods. 

The Worcester and Nashua Railroad crosses the present route at Ayer 
Junction. 

After leaving Ayer Junction, the Fitchburg Railroad crosses the towns 
of Shirley, Lunenburg, and Leominster, with occasional views of Wachusett 
to the 1. as the train approaches Fitchburg. Fitchburg {A merican House) 
is a small city (incorporated 1872) of about 22,000 inhabit¬ 
ants. It was known in the colonial days as Turkey Hills, from the great 
number of wild turkeys found here. It is a busy, plain, wide-awake place, 
which has quadrupled its population within 28 years by its encourage¬ 
ment of manufactures and by its being a centre of railroads. The city is 
built along the Nashua River, which affords a fine water-power. Many 
small factories are ranged along this stream, which is the life of Fitchburg. 
600 men are engaged in the manufacture of machinery and agricultural 
tools; 300 men are in the chair-making business ; 3 paper-mills with 250 
hands, turn out $1,000,000 worth of goods yearly; while two or three 
cotton-mills are well worked and busy. 

The views from Rollstone Hill (the seat of large quarries) and Pearl Hill 
are of interest. In memory of her soldiers who fell in the Secession War, 
the city has erected a fine monument from designs by Milmore. It repre¬ 
sents the Goddess of Liberty, a soldier, and a sailor, all of heroic size, and 
cast in bronze at Chicopee in this State. These statues stand on a high, 
inscribed pedestal, near the handsome Wallace Library (20,000 volumes). 

In 1793, Fitchburg maintained a semi-weekly stage to Boston. At present it 
has 7 trains a day running over 50 M. of track to Boston, by the Fitchburg Rail¬ 
road, and 4 trains daily to Boston by way of S. Framingham (58 M.). The Cheshire 
It. R. runs hence N. W. to Keene and Bellows Falls (see Route 26); the Vt. and 
Mass, runs W. to Hoosac Tunnel; and the Worcester and Fitchburg R. R. runs S. 
to Worcester. 


BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. Route 26. 177 


Beyond Fitchburg and W. Fitchburg the line soon reaches Wachusett, 
whence stages run 6 M. S. to Mt. Wachusett (see page 412 . Westminster 
is 3 M. by stage from Westminster Centre (Westminster House), a lofty 
hamlet near Meeting-House Pond, with a library and two churches. Mt. 
Wachusett is 5 M. S. E. ; and there are broad views from Prospect Hill. 
This town has 1,712 inhabitants, and 225 farms. It was granted to the 
Narragansett veterans, and settled in 1737, under guard of ten forts. 

At Ashburnham the Cheshire It. R. diverges to the X. W. : and a short branch 
runs 3 M. X. E. to Ashburnham ( Central Hotel), a pretty highland hamlet near 
Xaukeag Pond and Brown Hill, with 2 churches and several factories. 5-6 M. 
X. is Mt. Watatic (1,847 ft. high), which gives an immense view, including 
Wachusett, Monadnock, the White Mts., and hundreds of lakes and villages. 

The train runs S» to Gardner (see page 413), where it crosses the railroad 
from Worcester to Winchendon; and then to Baldwinsville, where it 
crosses the railroad from Springfield to Winchendon. Occasional views 
of Mt. Monadnock are gained on the N. From Royalston stages run N. 
W. 4 M. to Royalston Centre (Moore's Hotel), a pleasant hill-village in 
a farming town of 1,000 inhabitants. The line now follows Miller’s River 
S. W. through the hills to the bright village of Athol (see page 422t, where 
it meets the railroad from Springfield. Station, Orange (Putnam House), 
a prosperous and pretty village in a hill-girt glen, in a town of 5,000 in¬ 
habitants, with 5 churches and a soldiers’ monument. To the N. E. are 
the bluff Tully Mts. Stages run to Warwick. 

Station, Wendell, whence daily stages run 4£ M. S. W. to Wendell Centre, on a 
ridge in a farming town of 500 inhabitants ; also M. S. W. to Lock’s Villaqe 
near which are the Mt. Mineral Springs, highly efficient in diseases of the 
blood and nerves. Stages from Orange to Warwick (Warwick House), a 

pleasant old hili-town with 3 churches, a library, and a soldiers’ monument (to 27 
dead). Over it, on the N. W., is Mt. Grace (1,628 ft. high), which commands a 
broad and splendid view. It was named for Grace Rowlandson, who was buried 
here, while the Indians were leading the Lancaster people into captivity, in 1676. 

Beyond Erring (Erving House), the train crosses Miller’s River thrice; 
and intersects the Nevv-London N. R. R. Lake Pleasant ( Lake-Pleasant 
House) is a new summer-resort, patronized by Spiritualists, with steam¬ 
boat, bath-houses, military bands, 200 cottages, &c. Beyond Montague, 
the train crosses the Conn, and Deerfield Rivers, amid romantic scenery. 

Greenfield ( Mansion House, American House) is a beautiful village 
situated on broad intervales near Green River, and not far from the union 
of the Deerfield and Connecticut Rivers. It hears a pleasing air of rural 
simplicity, and is a favorite summer-resort on account of its attractive 
environs. Fronting the public Square is a handsome sandstone church, 
the Town Hall, Post Office, and Court House. The soldiers’ monument 
occupies the centre of the Square. 

The John Russell Cutlery Co. is at Turner’s Falls (branch R. R.). Here 600 
men are employed in the manufacture of table-cutlery, which is superior to that 
of Sheffield. The works turn out annually about 300,000 dozen table-knives, and 
100,000 dozen of miscellaneous cutlery, using up 500 tons of steel ; 150 tons of 
cocoa and granadilla wood ; 30 tons of rosewood ; 50 tons of ebony (from Mada- 

8 * * L 




178 Route 25. BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. 

gascar); 20 tons of elephant’s tusks ; 25 tons of emery (from Smyrna); 200 tons 
of grindstones (Nova Scotia) ; 15 tons ot brass wire : 2,000 tons ot coal; 25,000 
bushels of charcoal: and 1| tons of wax. The admirable and ingenious mechan¬ 
ism used in these works is worthy ot note.- 1 here are also manufactures of 
woollen goods, carpenters’ tools, &e., in the town. 

The Bear's Den is a (lark ravine with a small cave, a short distance S. 
E. of the village, and at the S. end of Rocky Mt. The Poet's Beat is on 
Rocky Mt., and commands a pleasing view, embracing the villages of 
Greenfield and Deerfield, the fair intervales of the two rivers, and a great 
circle of hills surrounding all. Arthur's Seat is a lofty hill S. W. of the 
village, commanding a view of the villages and rich intervales of Deerfield 
and Greenfield. 

Deerjield (see Route 24) is about 3 M. S. of Greenfield. The Coleraine 
and Shelburne Gorges are much visited, and in Leyden there is a re¬ 
markable water-worn cut in the slate-rock, 10 -15 ft. wide, and 30-50 
ft. deep, known as the Leyden Gorge. Pretty cascades are found near 
this place, and formidable hills tower over it. The Coleraine Gorge is a 
deep and romantic defile cut by the waters of the Green River. The 
road to the S., over the level meadows of the Deerfield River, 
and through the ancient village of Deerfield, is a popular and pleasant 
drive. 

4-5 M. N. E. of Greenfield are Turner’s Falls. At daybreak, on a May morning 
of 1676, Capt. Turner and 180 colonial soldiers, after a long forced march by 
night, attacked a powerful force of King Philip’s insurgent Indians, who were 
encamping here and rioting on the spoils of the captured English towns. Turner 
surprised the enemy sleeping in their wigwams, and in the ensuing panic 140 of 
them sprang into their canoes, and were carried over the Falls and lost. 100 
were shot or cut to pieces on the shore, and then Turner, having lost but one 
man, marched off. But the dispersed Indians rallied in swarms and hung on the 
line of retreat, and a rumor spread through the ranks of the colonials that King 
Philip and 1,000 men had reinforced the enemy. The command now broke up in 
panic, and (Japt. Turner and 38 men were killed, besides many wounded and 
stragglers who were cut off. The Rev. Hope Atherton, who was present in full 
canonicals, was made prisoner, but the Indians were struck with such awe at his 
presence that they speedily let him go. Capt. Holyoke led the remnant of the 
force back to Hatfield. After this blow, says the old historian, “the enemy went 
down the wind apace.” Many years later the town of Bernardston was granted 
to the veterans of the “ Falls Fight.” 

In 1792, a dain and canal (3 M. long) were built here, to aid in the navigation of 
the river. In 1866. the Turner’s Falls Co. bought 700 acres near the Falls, laid 
out a city, and built a curved dam 1,000 ft. long. The fall is 36 ft., and a water¬ 
power equal to 10,000 horse-power has been developed by two canals. Several 
manufactories have already been started here, and prophecies are heard of a sec¬ 
ond Lowell. “ During high water the roar of Turner’s Falls is heard from six to 
ten miles.” Dr. Hitchcock calls this Fall a miniature Niagara. “They are by 
far the most interesting waterfalls in this State, and I think I may safely say in 
New England.” 

Daily stages run N. E. from Greenfield 3$ M. to Factory Village, opposite Tur¬ 
ner^ Falls; and 7 M. to (HU, a small highland hamlet near the Connecticut River. 
Also 9 M. N. to Leyden, in a land of mountains and forges. At Greenfield the 
Fitchburg line is crossed by the railwav from Springfield to White-River Junc¬ 
tion (see page 164). The railroad from New Haven, Coun., by Simsbury and West- 
field, meets the present route at Shelburne Falls. 

After leaving Greenfield the railroad closely follows the Deerfield 


BOSTON TO THE HOOSAC TUNNEL. Route U. 178 a. 


River, running far S. to flank Arthur’s seat, which looms upon the r., 
while the Deerfield Hills and Pocomtuck Rock are across the valley, to 
the 1. Rising on higher grades noble views are given to the 1., including 
the peaceful valley, the dark mountain-walls, and the white hamlet of 
Deerfield, about 1 M. from W. Deerfield. The track soon enters and long 
traverses the remarkable Deerfield Gorge, a picturesque defile whereof 
Dr. Hitchcock said : “ It is so narrow that it is difficult, even on foot, to 
find a passage, though full of romantic and sublime objects to the man 
who has strength and courage to pass through it.” At Bardic ell’s Ferry 
the river is crossed on a costly bridge, and the old route of the railroad, 
narrow and sinuous, is seen. Stages run 3 M. N. to Shelburne ; and 4 M. 
S. to Conway (Conway House), an upland hamlet in a rugged farming 
town of 1,400 inhabitants. The line now runs N. W. up the Gorge, and 
soon reaches Shelburne Falls (Shelburne-Falls House), a prosperous vil¬ 
lage with over 1,200 inhabitants, 3 churches, a library, bank, high-school, 
and soldiers’ monument. Locks, cutlery, gimlets, and bits are made 
here ; and the surrounding town raises sheep and maple-sugar. 

“ Here the river, in a distance of a few hundred yards, makes a descent of 
about 150 ft. over a prodigious bed of rock. The river roars through a channel 
which it has worn in the stone, leaping in two or three distinct falls, and rushes 
downward, as from flight to flight of a broken and irregular staircase ; the rocks 
seem to have been hewn away, as when mortals make a road.” (Hawthorne.) 
Stages run daily from Shelburne Falis N. to Coleraine (7 M.), and Whittingham, 
Vt. P (19 M.) ; also S. to Ashfield , a mountain town which produces sheep, tobacco, 
and wooden-ware. The next town on the S. is Goshen (Highland House), which 
has a mountain 1,700 ft. high. 

The train passes through beautiful scenery beyond Shelburne Falls, 
with the dashing Deerfield River alongside, winding gracefully through 
the hills. Bald Mt. is passed on the r., and the train stops at Buckland, 
whose village is snugly hidden away in a romantic glen, 2 M. S. (Tay¬ 
lor’s Hotel). This sequestered place was the birthplace (in 1797) of 
Mary Lyon, the celebrated and devout teacher, who founded the Mount- 
Holyoke Seminary. The pretty hamlet of E. Charlemont is seen on the 
r., across the river, 2 M. N. of which is the massive Pocomtuck Mt., 
1,888 ft. high. The train next reaches Centre Charlemont (Dalrymple 
House), a bright village between Bald Mt. on the N. E. and Mt. Peak on 
the S. W., the scene of the story, “ An Earnest Trifler.” 

This town has about 1,000 inhabitants and 3 churches, and produces sheep, 
maple-sugar, hay, and tobacco. It was a strongly fortified frontier-post during 
the earlier part of the 18th century, and was attacked by the savages. 5 M. b. 
V,\ is W. Hawley, in a rugged and picturesque mountain-town which produces 
maple-sugar and wood. This was the birthplace of Jonas King, the famous 
missionary to Athens. To the N. E. is the village of Heath , with 2 churches, sit¬ 
uated on a high ridge, and commanding a broad view over the wilderness of hills. 
Fort Shirley was built here in 1744, to protect the border-settlements. 

The liue crosses and recrosses the river, among savage and shaggy hills, 
and reaches Zoar, whence daily stages run N. E. up the Pelham-Brook 


178 b. Route 26. HOOSAC TUNNEL TO TROY. 


valley (near the ruins of the ancient Fort Pelham) to Rowe, a lofty and 
picturesque farming town on the Vermont frontier. In its N. part Jil- 
son's Hill attains the height of 2,109 ft. Sweeping around through a 
wild and desolate region, the line soon reaches the Hoosac-Tunnel sta¬ 
tion, whence the old stage-road ascends the mountain. 1 lie costly cut- 
stone facade at the E. end of the tunnel is approached, and the train 
advances under the Hoosac Mt. (see page 155). 

Soon after emerging on the W. side the bright town of N. Adams appears, 
overlooked by the massive peaks of the Greyloek chain. 

N. Adams and Williamstown, see pages 154-157. Beyond N. 
Adams the train runs down the Hoosac Valley, near the river, with bold 
mountains on either side. Blackinton is a small factory-village, as is 
also Chadbourneville, which stands close to the Williamstown station 
(whence the college is H M. distant, on the 1.). Greyloek Hall is next 
seen, on the r., near Dome Mt- ; ami the line swings to the N. W. around 
Clarksburg Mt., with the massive Berlin Mt. on the 1., and enters the 
State of Vermont, Pownal station is 2J M. S. of Pownal Centre 
( Union Hotel). The line now bends around the Petersburgh Mt., on the 
1., and runs on to X. Pownal (Eldred’s Hotel), in an old mountain-town 
which was early settled by the Dutch, and in 1762 by the aggressive 
New-Englanders. Mt. Anthony is seen on tlier., miles away. 

At Petersburgh the Lebanon-Springs Railroad crosses the present route; 
and the train then runs through the long manufacturing district of Uuos- 
ick and Hoosick Falls, situated on the valuable water-power of the river. 
In this town, near the Walloomsack River, the Vermonters defeated the 
Hessian army in 1777 (see page 1S6). 

At Hoosick Junction a branch line diverges to Bennington, Vt., 6£ M. E. Eagle 
Bridge (Dalton House) is in the midst of pleasant scenery, and here a branch 
railroad diverges to Rutland. At Johnsonville another branch diverges, running 
15 M. N. across Cambridge and Easton to Greenwich, a prosperous factory-village 
on the Batten Kill. 

Beyond the manufacturing town of Schaghticoke (3,125 inhabitants), the line 
leaves the Hoosick Valley and crosses the water-shed to the 8. W. Noble views 
over the Hudson Valley are obtained, with the Kayaderosseras Mts. on the N. W. 
and the blue Helderbergs on the 8. W. LansingJburg [American House) is a 
manufacturing town of G,372 inhabitants, where oil-cloths, brushes, and many 
other articles are made. Just across the Hudson is Waterford, also occupied by 
factories. 

The train next runs down through a populous district, traverses the 
ragged suburbs, and enters the city of Troy (see page 350). 

The route to Saratoga leaves the main line at Johnsonville, and runs by 
W. Valley Falls , Schaghticoke, and Reynolds to E. Saratoga Junction 
and Saratoga (see page 350). This line follows the shore of Saratoga Lake 
for a long distance; and from Schuyler Junction throws off a branch to 
Victory Mills and Schuylerville. 

Many of the fast trains between Boston and the West run over the 
Fitchburg and West-Shore lines, reaching Buffalo in 15 hours. At 


MONADNOCK MT. 


Route 26. 179 


Mechanicville Ihe route crosses the D. and H. Canal Co. R. R. from Albany 
to Saratoga; and at Rotterdam Junction it meets the New York, West 
Shore, and Buffalo R R. fur the West. 

26. Boston to Burlington and Montreal. 

By the Fitchburg Railroad and connecting lines, in 837 M. 

(A new route from Boston to Montreal leads to N. Conway, and thence through 
the Crawford Notch and across N. Vermont.) 

The train leaves the Fitchburg station, on Causeway Street, Boston. 
Boston to Fitchburg, see Route 25. The cars pass on to the rails of the 
Cheshire R. R. at Fitchburg, and run by the stations of W. Fitchburg, 
Westminster , S. and N. Ashburnham , and H inchenuon (see page 413). 

Fitchburg to Peterboro. 

From Winchendon the Monadnock R. R. runs N. 17 M. to Peterboro, 
N H., passing across the lake-studded town of Rindge, the birthplace of 
Edward Pavson, L). I)., and Marshall P. Wilder. Station, Jeffrey, in the 
town of the same name, which has an ancient church (now secularized) 
whose frame was raised on the day of the battle of Bunker Hill (1775). 
The workmen claimed to have heard the cannonading. In the N. W. 
part of Jaffrev is Monadnock Mountain, with its high and rugged top 
rising 3,186 ft. above the sea. (Stage from Troy daily, to the Mountain 
House, $ 1.50 a day; $ !) a week, — round-trip tickets from Boston to Moun¬ 
tain House and return, $4.50, — a well-kept hotel, whence steep path to the 
summit, 1 M.) An extensive view is enjoyed from the summit, embracing 
Mts. Lafayette, Washington, Moosilauke, Kiarsarge. Ossipee, Belknap. 
Watatic, Wachusett, the Berkshire Hills, and the Oreen Mts. (see page 
413). Troy is on the Cheshire R. R. Peterboro (see page 413). 


The train on the main line, after leaving Winchendon, passes State 
Line, and enters New Hampshire, stopping at Fitzwilliam (MonadnocJc- 
Mt. House; Cheshire House), a picturesque hill-town with many ponds, 
■named in 1773 for the Earl of Fitzwilliam. Its present industry is mainly 
centred on quarrying granite. Stations, Troy (Monadnock House), a 
thinly settled upland town, with a stage-line in summer to Monadnock 
Mt.; Marlboro (Marlboro House), a rugged and unproductive town; and 
Keene Eagle; City). Keene is a pleasant city in the 

alluvial valley of the Ashuelot River, with 7,000 inhabitants, 8 churches, 
2 newspapers, 6 banks, the Cheshire-County buildings, a high-school, a 
public library, and a museum. The broad streets are shaded with trees, 
and on Central Square (adorned by a soldiers’ monument), are numerous 
stores, which are prospered by a large country trade. The manufactures 



180 Route 26. 


LAKE SPOFFORD. 


of the city are valued at nearly $ .3,000,000 a year, including leather, furni¬ 
ture, flannel, sash and blinds, &c. R. R. to Nashua. 

Near S. Keene the R. R. passes over a tine granite viaduct 75 ft. wide 
and 45 ft. high. The Beaver-Brook Falls are about 2 M. N. of the Square, 
and are much visited. The brook falls over a stair-like succession of 
ledges 40 ft. into a deep basin which is a haunt of large trout. 

“ Keene is a proud little spot,” which was settled under the name of Upper Ashue- 
Iot (‘* collection of many waters”), about 1735. In 1746 its fort was attacked by a 
large Indian force, and the villagers who were outside were cut off by the enemy. 
A reinforcement from Swanzey drove off the assailants In 1753 the tow r n was named 
in honor of Sir Benjamin Keene, a friend of Governor Wentworth, and at that time 
British minister to Spain. It was among the first to resist the British aggressions 
on the liberties of New England. 

Stashes run to Chesterfield , which has a lovely lake 8 M in circumference : to 
Surry and Gilsum; to Sullivan and Martoiv : to Haoanzey, tiichmond, and Nelson. 

The Ashuelot Division of the Conuecticut-River Railroad runs S. W. 24 M. from 
Keene to W. Northtield and S. Vernon. (See page 1U2.) 

Lake Spofford (Prospect House). 10 M. from Keene (stages from Boston 
trains), is 3 M. around, with crystalline waters on a white sandy bot¬ 
tom. It has a pretty island of 6 acres, much used by picnics. Visitors 
come here from all parts of the Union in summer. A steamer, sail-boats, 
and row-boats ply on the lake, in whose waters black bass and pike are 
found. The hotel accommodates 100 guests ($7 -12 a week). 

The hotel commands charming views; and Prospect Hill gives a pros¬ 
pect of the Green Mts., Monadnock, Ascutnev, &c. Park Hill, the Ravine, 
Echo Cove, and Picnic Point, are often visited. Chesterfield Centre 
( Chesterfield, House), is an embowered village 1-2 M. from the lake. 
Brattleboro is 6 M. S. W. (see also page 103). 


Passing out of Keene, the Burlington train runs W. and N. 9 M. through 
a thinly settled country, ascending the long hills toward the Connecticut 
River. Then comes E. Westmoreland, whence daily stages run 3] M. 
S. W. to Westmoreland (Bennett House), the chief village in a rich and 
prosperous farming town, which has many summer-visitors, It was set¬ 
tled in 1741, and suffered from several Indian forays. From Westmore¬ 
land Depot daily stages run 21 M. S. to the hamlet of Park Hill. 

The train now runs down on the fertile intervales of the Connecticut, 
and soon reaches Walpole (Dinsmore House; summer boarding-houses of 
Crowell, Blake, and others), the chief village in a charming river-town of 
2,000 inhabitants, abounding in corn, tobacco, and wool, and agreeably 
placed amid rugged Tyrolese scenery. 

Walpole was settled in 1749-52 by John Kilburn and Col. Bellows. A strong fort 
was erected near Cold River, and in 1755 the garrison of Kilburn was attacked 



BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. 


Route 26. 181 


by 400 Frenchmen and Indians. From noon till sunset the battle was carried on, 
the little handful of heroes within keeping up an incessant lire. The women 
loaded the guns, and run the bullets, and when ammunition began to fail, picked 
up the Indian shot which had entered the house and melted them over for their 
husbands’ guns. Several attacks on the heavy outer doors were met by deadly 
volleys, and the enemy finally grew discouraged and retired to the N. It is 
thought that the valley towns were saved by this brave defence. 

Henry W. Bellows, I). D., the great-grandson of Col. Bellows, was bom at 
Walpole in 1814. He was pastor of All Souls’ Church (New York) for 40 years, and 
one of the foremost divines of the Unitarian Church; an eloquent and powerful 
erator, and a leader in social reforms and philanthropic movements. 

Walpole is a pleasant village near the foot of Mt. Kilburn, and on the 
verge of broad intervales. It has wide streets lined with trees, a neat 
Common, and several boarding-houses for summer guests, with whom this 
is a favorite resort. Ravine Falls, Blanchard Falls, and the Abenaquis 
Spring are near the village, while Derry Hill commands an extensive 
view, including the Green Mts., Ascutney, Greylock, Monadnock, and the 
valley of the Connecticut. 

The line now crosses the river, and stops at Bellows Falls (see page 164), 
where Route 29 crosses the present route. (Restaurant in the station.) 
Beyond Bellows Falls the line runs along Williams River valley, and soon 
begins the ascent of the E. slope of the Green Mts. Stations, Rocking¬ 
ham, Bartonsville, Chester (Central Hotel). From the latter station 
stages run to Windham, 10 M. S. W.; Londonderry (Green Mt. House), 
15 M. S. W. ; Weston, 12 M. W. ; and Andover, 6 M. W. ^ 

Station, Gassetts, from which stages run to Baltimore (3 M.) and to 
Springfield ( Springfield House) (7 M.), a village at Black-River Falls. 
Stations, Cavendish, and Proctorsville (Eagle Hotel), a neat village with 
two churches and a bank. There are fine cascades on Black River near 
Cavendish; and 1 M. N. of the village is a valuable quarrv of serpentine 
marble, which is equal to the best African stone, and is largely used for 
decorative purposes in Boston and New York. 

Station, Ludlow ’(Ludlow House), where the line passes over the Hog¬ 
back, which is thought to have been an island in some primeval lake, long 
since drained by the break-down of the eastern serpentine ridge. Daily 
stage to Plymouth. The train now ascends heavy grades by Healdville 
to Summit , the highest point on the line, beyond which the train starts on 
a down grade which includes 1,000 ft. ot descent in 18 M. Stations, Alt. 
Holly, E. Wallingford, and Cuttingsville (small inn), which is near 
Shrewsbury Peak, a tree-covered mt. 4,086 ft. high. Stations, Clarendon , 
N. Clarendon , and Rutland (* Batts House , 175 rooms, and Bardwell 
House, near station ; each $ 2.50 per day), a finely situated and prosperous 
town of 12,000 inhabitants, with a large country-trade, marble-works, and 
the Howe Scale Works. There are some fine commercial buildings, others 
pertaining to the town, several churches, and an Opera House. St. Peter’3 


182 Route m. 


BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. 


Catholic Church is a fine building of stone, in the English Gothic 
style, while the Episcopal Church is a solid and massive stone structure. 
Near the twin spires which are seen on the hill is the handsome Court 
House of Rutland County, opposite which is a neat Government build¬ 
ing. The town has 2 daily and 2 weekly papers, 8 churches, 5 banks, 
and numerous manufactories, prominent among which are the marble- 
works. The principal quarries and sawing-mills are at IF. Rutland, 
whence immense quantities of white marble are shipped to all parts of 
America and Europe. It sells at the quarries for a higher price than does 
Italian marble delivered in New York. Large gangs of saws (without 
teeth, and cutting by means of sand poured in from above) are constantly 
running, to separate the marble into slabs. 

Rutland was settled about 1770, and fortified in 1775 as a station on the great 
northern military road. In 1777, St. Clair’s routed army retreated through the 
town. 

Numerous pleasant excursions may be made from Rutland. Claren¬ 
don Springs are about 7 M. distant (stages connect with trains at W. 
Rutland station). These springs are of great efficacy, “containing in one 
gallon, or 235 inches, 46 cubic inches of carbonic acid gas, 9.63 cubic 
inches of nitrogen gas, 3 grains of carbonate of lime, and traces of other 
alkalies. ” In a sequestered location near the springs is a large hotel, which 
has been a favorite resort for many years (75 guests; $2 a day, $ 10 a 
week). The*drives in this vicinity are very pleasant. 

Killington Peak ( Killington House , S3 a day, $ 10-15 a week) is 9 M. 
E. of Rutland (daily stages; $2 for round trip). The road traverses the 
lofty and sterile town of Mendon. From the peak (4,380 ft. high) a mag¬ 
nificent *view is gained over S. Vermont, Lake Champlain, Ascutney, 
Mansfield, the White Mts., and the nearer Pico and Shrewsbury, besides 
scores of white villages and azure lakes. The hotel was opened in 1879, 
and is visited by thousands of guests, from all parts of the Union. It is 
3 M. by an easy road from the base, and a flight of stone steps leads to 
the rocky summit, 300 It. above. This locality is a point of total exemp¬ 
tion from hav-fever and malaria; and the pure waters of two adjacent 
springs are said to relieve dyspepsia and rheumatism. 

Proctor (named for the ex-Secretarv of War, wffio lives here) is the seat 
of the Vermont Marble Company, the largest in the world, employing 1,400 
men. Vermont yields yearly $2,500,000 worth of fine marble. 

After leaving Rutland, the main line runs N. bv Proctor to Pittsford 
(Otter-Creek House), prettily situated near fertile intervales on Otter Creek 
and large marble quarries. Station, Brandon (Grand Union House), a 
prosperous manufacturing village on the Neshobe River, with 3,000 in¬ 
habitants, 5 churches, and 2 banks. In this and the village of Forestdale 
are several mineral-paint companies, producing large quantities of paint 
from kaolin, which is mined in the vicinity. There are also marble 


BOSTON TO BURLINGTON. 


Route 26. 183 


quarries, producing common and fine statuary marble and lime. Vast 
quantities of bog iron ore are found, which is easily melted, and yields 45 
per cent of soft gray iron, adapted for cannon, car-wheels, and other-cast¬ 
ings requiring great strength. 200 tons of manganese are sent hence to 
market, principally to Europe. In view of this mineral wealth, and also 
of the rich crops on the intervales and the abundant timber on the hills, 
Sir Charles Lyell said of Brandon, “ I have yet to see, either in Europe 
or America, a spot containing such a variety of unique and valuable sub¬ 
stances placed by nature in juxtaposition.” 

Two curious caves are in the limestone ledges \\ M. E. of the village. 
The foremost native of Brandon was Stephen A. Douglas, U.-S. Senator 
from Illinois from 1847 until 1861. 

Sudbuiy (Hyde Hotel, 200 guests, $10 to $18 a week, with fine view 
of the Adirondacks) is a pleasant village reached from Brandon by daily 
stages in 8 M. Farther W., on the shores of Lake Champlain (and reached 
by the branch railway from Leicester Junction), is Larrabee’s Point (Lake 
House , $7 to $12 a week), opposite Fort Ticonderoga; and Chipman's 
Point (Crainmond House), reached by stage in 6g M. from N. Orwell 
station, by Orwell (Eagle Inn). 

Stages run from Brandon to Sudbury, 8 M. W., and to Lake Dunmore, 9 M. N. 

From Leicester Junction a branch railroad runs W. across the farming towns of 
Whiting, Shoreham, and Orwell to Ticonderoga (17 M), Crown Point, and 
Port Henry (see Route 53). This road crosses Lake Champlain on a long bridge 
near Fort Ticonderoga. 

Station, Salisbury, 3 - 4 M. W. of which is the beautiful Lake Dun- 
more, which is about 5 M. long and is environed by hills. Its clear waters 
are 60 ft. deep, and abound in fish. Moosalamoo Peak towers on its 
shore to a height of nearly 2,000 ft. and overlooks the lake and the sur¬ 
rounding country, while there are rich lake-views from Rattlesnake Point. 
Warner's Cave (on Moosalamoo) and the Lana Cascade, E. of the lake, 
are often visited. Lord Dunmore visited this lake (about the year 1770) 
and, wading into its crystal waters, poured a libation of wine into it, saying, 
“ Ever after, this body of water shall be called Lake Dunmore, in honor 
of the Earl of Dunmore.” The scenes of the romance, “ The Green 
Mountain Boys,” are laid in this vicinity. On'the W. shore is the *Lake- 
Dunmore House , which accommodates 100 guests ($8 - 15 a week). 

Middlebury (Addison House, 80 guests, $10.00-12.00 a Aveek) is a 
handsome village, situated near a considerable fall in Otter Creek. It 
has some manufactures, but its principal product is marble, of fine quality. 
The Portland (Me.) Post Office is built of this marble. Besides 4 churches 
and a bank, the village contains the Addison County Court House, and is 
the seat of Middlebury College. This institution was incorporated in 
1800, and has 9 instructors, 50 students, and a library of 11,000 

volumes. It has three large stone buildings on an eminence near the 
village, and is under the care of the Congregational Church. 


184 Route 27. 


VEIIGENNES. 


Middlebury has admirable schools, and is the business-centre of a rich farming 
country. The favorite drives are to Belden’s Falls, 2 M ; Lake Dunmore, 8 M. ; 
Grand-View Mt., 9 M.; and Bristol, 12 M. 

Stages run W. to Cornwall (6 M), Bridport f8 M.). and Weybridge (4 M ). Also 
to the Bread-Xoaf Inn, 11 M. B., 1,500 ft. high on the Green Mts.. and accom¬ 
modating 100 guests ($ 10 -14 a week). 

Stations, Brookville and New Haven (Partch Hotel), near New 

Haven River and large marble quarries. Stages run to Bristol (good inn), 
5 M. E., a pretty little hamlet on a high plateau, front which the Adiron- 
dacks and Green Mts. are seen. Stages also to Lincoln, among the mts. 

Station, Vergennes ( Stevens House), the smallest city 

in the Union (1,800 inhabitants). The site was chosen by Ethan Allen, 
and is on a hill at the head of navigation on Otter Creek, 8 M. front the 
lake. It received its city charter in 1788, and was named in honor of the 
Count de Vergennes, French minister of foreign affairs, 1774-83. Otter 
Creek has deep water, and is navigable for 300 ton vessels to the Falls at 
Vergennes, which have a descent of 37 ft., and are improved for water¬ 
power. The country in the vicinity is rich and productive, and commands 
views of the great mountain-chains on the E. and W., “ a scene of grand¬ 
eur and sublimity rarely paralleled on this side of the Atlantic.” The 
Champlain Arsenal was located here, covering 28 acres of ground. More 
recently the Vermont Reform School has been established at this place. 
Commodore MacDonough’s fleet, which won the naval victory off Platts- 
burg, was fitted out at Vergennes in 1814. 

Stages run to Addison, 6 M. S., a famous old border-town, in whose S. W. 
corner is Chimney Point, opposite Crown Point (see Route 53). It is now an 
agricultural town, widely known for its fine horses. The road to Addison passes 
through Bridport, a broad, quiet farming town. About 3 M. S. of Veruennes are 
fine cascades in Otter Creek, near which is the Elgin Spring, containing sulphates 
of magnesia, iron, and soda, and carbonates of soda and lime. Daily steamboat in 
summer from Vergennes to Westport, N. Y., near the Adiroudacks. 

Beyond Vergennes the line passes through Ferri&burgh , Charlotte , and 
Shelburne , to Burlington. These are quiet farming towns with frequent 
glimpses of Lake Champlain and the Adiroudacks on the W., and the 
Green Mts. on the E. Stages run from N. Ferrisburgh to Monkton, which 
has two pretty lakes. The great mansion and estate of Dr. W. S. Webb 
of New York are near Shelburne. 

Burlington, see page 365. 


27. Rutland to Bennington. 

Via the Bennington and Rutland R. R., 57 M , in 2 hrs. (express). 

Trains run from N. Bennington by State Line to Hoosac Junction, on the Troy 
and Boston R. R. A new railway route is being pushed eastward from Benningtou 
into the Green Mts , through Glastenbury. 

Station, Clarendon, which is separated from the Clarendon Springs val¬ 
ley by a mountain. The line then crosses the town of Wallingford (2 


RUTLAND TO BENNINGTON. 


R.oute27. 185 


stations) near the lofty ridge called the White Rocks. Station, Mt. Ta¬ 
bor and Danby, between two rugged hill-towns, so-named, the former of 
which has less than 500 inhabitants on 23,376 acres of land, much of 
which is on the summits of the Green Mts. 

Stations, N. Dorset ( Washington House), E. Dorset (Wilson House). 
The line runs through a valley between the Green Mts. on the E. and the 
marble hills of the Taconic system on the W. Mt. ^Eolus, the highest 
peak of the latter chain, has large marble quarries on its E. slope. 

Marble was first quarried here in 1785, and now there are 62 gangs of saws run¬ 
ning here and in Manchester, sawing 750,000 ft. yearly. Over 300 quarrymen are 
employed, and the Dorset marble is sent to every part of the U. S. and Canada. 
One quarry produces the Italian marble, so called from its resemblance to that of 
Carrara. The supply is inexhaustible, and the stone is found in parallel strata 
1-6 ft. thick, separated by thin seams of other rock. Sometimes 20 of these 
strata are found, one above the other. On the S. of Mt. JSolus (formerly called Dor¬ 
set Mt.) is a remarkable cave containing 5 chambers and several long passages in 
the rock. Its innermost room is 50 ft. high, and has many stalactites. 

The line now follows the valley of the Battenkill to Manchester 
(* Equinox House, open June to Dec., a large and first-class hotel. 

This is a quiet and beautiful village at the 
base of Mount Equinox, and is much visited in summer on account of its 
pure air, picturesque environs, and fine fishing. The village sidewalks 
are of marble from the inexhaustible quarries on the mts., and the prin¬ 
cipal buildings are Burr Seminary and the Bennington County Court 
House. Mt. JEolus is 5 M. N. and Stratton Mt. lies to the S. E., near 
which is Stratton Gap, a romantic pass which has been reproduced in one 
of Durand’s best paintings. A road has been constnicted to the house on 
the summit of Mt. Equinox, which is 3,706 ft. above the sea. From this 
peak a view is gained, which includes Greylock, chief of the Berk¬ 
shire Hills, on the S., and the remote Catskills on the S. W. On the S. 
W. is Saratoga, with parts of the Hudson Valley running N. to Lakes 
George and Champlain, long reaches of which are visible. Mt. iEolus, 
Killington and Shrewsbury Peaks loom up in the N.; Ascutney is in 
the N. W., and far beyond Stratton Mt. (S. of E.) is the dim blue 
cone of Mohadnock. Skinner Hollow is a deep amphitheatrical gulf on 
the S. of Equinox Mt., which has a profound cave. Equinox is a corruption 
of the Indian name, Ekivanok. The Battenkill was the Indian Ondawa. 

The first meeting of the Vermont Council of Safety took place at Manchester, 
July 15, 1777, and ordered the assembly of the militia to meet Burgoyne, who was 
marching on Albany. 1,400 men gathered here under Stark and Warner, and 
encamped until the Hessians advanced on Bennington, when they marched down 
and beat them. (Among the best New England historical romances aie The 
Green Mountain Boys ” and “The Rangers,” by Hon. D. P. Thompson. Their 
scenes are laid in this part of the State during the Revolutionary era.) 

Stages run E. to the mountain-towns of Peru and Land grove ; and N. W. to 
Dorset, the Ruperts and Paw let (see page 188). 

Station, Arlington ( Arlington Hotel, $9 to $12 a week), in a fine trout¬ 
fishing country, near West and Red’Mountains, and several grottoes. 


18G Route 27. RUTLAND TO BENNINGTON. 


7 M. N. of Arlington is Sandgate Notch , a remarkable passage through the solid 
rock, 30 ft. high, 800 ft. long, and less than 12 ft. wide. This pass is used by a 
highway. Stages run from Arlington to Sandgate. 

Stations, Shaft sbury, S. Shaftsbury , N. Bennington, and Bennington 
( Putnam House ), a pretty village in a glen 800 ft. above 

the sea. It has 4 churches, the county buildings, a bank, 2 weekly papers, 
and fine graded schools. The town has 6,500 inhabitants, and is the chief 
manufacturing place in the State, making knit underclothing, etc. A char¬ 
coal railroad runs one train daily 8 M. N. E. to Glnstenbury , a rugged 
mountain town. Old Bennington Centre, of Revolutionary fame, is a quiet 
hamlet 1 M. distant. 

Here stood the old Catamount Tavern (burned in 1871), whose sign was a stuffed 
wild-cat on a pole, grinning fiercely towards New York. The Vermont Council of 
Safety used to meet here and make plans to defend the State against the claims 
of New York and the armies of the king. Ethan Allen’s house adjoined the 
tavern. 

The Bennington Monument built in 1887-91, on State-Arms Hill, is the 
noblest of American battle-monuments. It is an obelisk of rock-faced 
gray-blue dolomite, 302 ft. high, in graceful vertical curves, with bronze 
doors, and a spacious observation hall 200 ft. high (reached by iron stairs), 
overlooking a vast area. 

Mount Anthony is 2 M. by foot-path from Bennington (4£ M. by road). 
From the tower on its summit a beautiful * view is afforded, including 
most of S. W. Vermont, Mts. Equinox and /Eolus, Greylock in Berk¬ 
shire, the broad Walloomsack Valley, several prominent Adirondack 
peaks, the Kayaderosseras Mts., the Helderberg range, and the remote 
crests of the Catskills. Prospect Ml. is often visited. 

Stages run on the great southern highway across the State to Brattleboro. 

Bennington was settled in 1761 by Mass, people, and was named in honor of 
Benning Wentworth, Governor of N. H. For 60 years it was the most populous 
place in Vermont, of which it now is the fifth town. Soon after its settlement 
the territory now occupied by Vermont was transferred, by royal edict, from the 
jurisdiction of New Hampshire to that of New York. The titles of the settlers 
to their lands were rendered null and void, and it became evident that they must 
either repurchase, abandon, or defend them against New York and the king. The 
sturdy pioneers determined on the latter course, and their well-organized resist¬ 
ance left the territory in a state of anarchy until the outbreak of the Revolution. 
The headquarters of the anti-New-York party was at Bennington. Here, in 
1777, was established a depot of military supplies. Fort Tieonderoga was taken 
by an expedition from this place (1775), and when Burgoyne’s royal army was 
marching on Albany, he sent Col. Baume with the Brunswick Dragoons and a 
motley swarm of Canadians, Tories, and Indians, to capture Bennington. This 
force (about 600 men) met Lieut.-Col. Gregg and 200 Vermonters, and drove them 
back until Gen. Stark’s brigade moved up from Bennington (5 M. distant). Baume 
now halted and threw up entrenchments on a commanding hill, and Stark en¬ 
camped near by. After two days’ skirmishing, Stark was joined by a regiment 
from Berkshire, which, with the 3 N. II. regiments and Herrick’s Rangers, gave 
him a force of 1,800 men. On the day before the battle, Parson Allen, of Berk¬ 
shire, said to Stark, “General, the people have been too often called out to no 
purpose. If you don’t give them a chance to fight now, they ’ll never turn out 
again.” “You wouldn’t turn out now while it’s dark and rainy, would you?” 




RUTLAND TO ALBANY. 


Route 28. 187 


said Stark. “ Well, no, not just now,” answered the Parson. “ Well,” answered 
Stark, “if the Lord should once more give us sunshine, if I don’t give you fight¬ 
ing enough, I ’ll never ask you to turn out again.” On the morning of Aug. 16, 
1777, the American militia were drawn out, and three detachments were sent to 
attack the Hessian right, and right and left rear. “See there, men ! there are 
the red-coats. Before night they are ours, or Molly Stark will be a widow,” 
cried Stark, as he led his men to the attack. The Indians fled between the con¬ 
verging columns, and the Tories soon gave way, but the German soldiers fought 
with their swords when their ammunition had given out, and only surrendered 
when enveloped by superior numbers. The action lasted lor two hours, “like one 
continued clap of thunder,” and scarcely had the victors begun to rest when Col. 
Breyman came near the field with a large reinforcement for Baume. Fortunately 
Warner’s Vermont regiment had just arrived on the field, and the valiant Warner 
(who had been among the foremost in the battle) led them against the enemy. 
The other corps were soon hurried to their support, and Breyman retreated at 
sunset. 237 of the enemy were killed and wounded, 700 were made prisoners, 
and 4 cannon were taken. The Americans lost about 200 (or, according to Stark’s 
report, 70 killed and wounded). The 16th of August has been observed as a holi¬ 
day at Bennington ever since the battle. 

From Bennington to New York, the trains run in 9-12 hours, by Lebanon 
Springs (see Route 23), Chatham Four Corners, Croton Falls, and White Plains- 
Trains to Albany in 4} - 6 hours. 


28. Rutland to Albany. 

Via the Rensselaer and Saratoga R. R. in 101 M. Fare, $3.65. 

Stations, Centre Rutland (near which the river is crossed at Gookin’s 
Falls), and IF. Rutland , with its great marble-works. Stages run hence 
to Clarendon Springs (see page 1S2) in 4 M. ; fare, 75 c. Station, Castleton 
(Bornoseen House), a pretty village on a plain near Castleton River, which 
has a State Normal School and five churches. There are marble and slate 
quarries in this vicinity, also works for preparing marbleized slate, an ex¬ 
cellent imitation of marble. 100 men are engaged here in making white 
soapstone slate-pencils, 300,000,000 of which are made yearly. At W. 
Castleton, 1,000 billiard beds and 2,000 mantels of slate are made yearly. 

Excursions may be made from Castleton to Lake Bornoseen , 4 M. N. 
W. This Lake is 8 M. long and 1-2^ M. wide, and is lined on its W. 
shore with marble-mills and slate-quarries. 

7 M. N. of Castleton is Hubbardton, where, near the Baptist church, is an obe¬ 
lisk near a flagstaff, which marks the battle-field of July 7, 1777. As soon as the 
British knew that St. Clair had evacuated Ticonderoga, Gen. Frazer was sent in 
pursuit of him with a small force of light infantry. The American rear-guard 
was composed of 3 thin regiments, one of which retreated as soon as the action 
commenced. Frazer attacked the regiments of Warner and Francis with 700 men. 
The numbers were about equal, and the light was long and desperate. At last 
the Baron Riedesel arrived on the field with his Brunswickers, and the American 
lines were broken. They lost 324 men, including Col. Francis, who fell at the 
head of his regiment, while the British loss was 183. The bones of the slain 
bleached on the battle-field in the deserted town for 7 years, when they were 
buried near the site of the monument. 

Rutland and Washington Line. 

Poultney ( Poultney House ; Beaman's) is 7 M. S. of Castleton, on the 
Rutland and Washington Railroad. The line passes through a region 


188 Route 29. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


abounding in slate-quarries. Poultney is a handsome village, where Horace 
Greeley learned the printer’s trade and Jared Sparks mastered the carpen¬ 
ter’s trade. Here also George Jones, of the N. \ . Times, was born. The 
fine old building of the Ripley Female College is situated in pleasant 
grounds, and is now used by the Troy Conference Seminary (Methodist), 
for both sexes. Among the principal points frequented by visitors are the 
Gorge, the Bowl, Carter’s Falls, and Lake Bomoseen. Lake St. Catherine 
(name from an old Jesuit mission here) is a lovely sheet of water, G M. 
by 1| M., surrounded by high hills and mountains. 3 M. from Poultney, 
at its liead, is the Lake-View House, in a fine pine grove, and commanding 
a view clear down the lake. The Lake St. Catherine House is at the foot 
of the lake, on a pleasant promontory, near the Haystack, Moosehorn, and 
St. Catherine Alts, and 5£ M. from Granville station. 

Middletown Springs are 8 AL S. E. of Poultney (stages daily, 75 c.). 
These springs are mainly impregnated with iron, and have become a popu¬ 
lar resort. The Montvert Hotel accommodates 100 guests; $2.50 a day, 
$ 10 a week. The Valley House is a smaller hotel in the vicinity. 

Beyond Poultney the Rutland and Washington Division runs along the border to 
Ragle Bridge and Troy, 68 M. from Poultney, stopping at the Vermont stations of 
Pawlet and Rupert. Pawlet {Cresrrnt - Valley House, 100 guests) is 6 M. by 
stage from the IP. Pawlet station and 5 M. from Lake St. Catherine. 

Beyond Castleton the next main line station is at Ilydeville (Russell 
House), at the foot of Lake Bomoseen. Station, Fairhaven (Park View 
House), with a neat oval park, from which the streets radiate. Vast amounts 
of slate for roofing and other purposes are quarried in this town. 

Daily stages run N. to the farming towns of Westhaven and Benson (10 
M.), on the shore of Lake Champlain. Beyond Fairhaven the line reaches 
Whitehall (N. Y.), whence the Railroad starts for Ticonderoga, 

Burlington, and Rouse’s Point. For a description of the lake, and of the 
railroad from Albany to Whitehall, see Route 53. 

29. Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal. 

By the Boston & Maine (S. Div.), Northern, and Central Vermont Railroads. 

(The other routes from Boston to Montreal are by Fitchburg and Rutland, 344 
M. ; by Portland and the Grand Trunk Railway, 405 M. : by N. Conway and the 
Maine Central route ; and by the Boston & Montreal Air Line, over the Passump- 
Bic and Canadian Pacific Railways, 340 M.) 

By the Lowell route, Pullman and passenger car9 run through to Montreal, 
without change, in 11 hours. Through express trains usually leave the Boston 
and Lowell depot, in Boston, at 8.30 o’clock A. M., and 7 P. Al., arriving in Montreal, 
respectively, at about 8 o’clock in the evening, and 7.35 in the morning. The line 
passes through the populous cities of Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, and Concord, 
and then runs N. W. through the pleasing rural scenery of New Hampshire and 
Vermont. 

The train leaves the superb Lowell Depot, in Boston, and crosses Charles 
River, with Charlestown resting on hills to the r. Over College Hill is 
Tufts College, a famous Universalist school (founded, 1852), with 18 


MIDDLESEX FELLS. 


Route 29. 189 


instructors and 150 students, a library of 20,000 volumes, and the Goddard 
Chapel, a low blue-stone edifice, with memorial stained windows, and “ the 
only true Lombardic tower in America.” The Middlesex Fells, an unin¬ 
habited tract of far-viewing stony hills, cliffs, gorges, ravines, and tarns, 
“of wonderful picturesqueness and wild and rugged beauty,” cover the 
N. part of Medford, and are crossed by ancient grassy cartways and dim 
paths. Spot Pond (see below) is its centre, over which rises Bear Hill , 
whose steep N. face is Cheese Rock, so named by Gov. Winthrop. 

Pine Hill and Taylor Mt. are in the Western Fell, S. E. of Winchester. 

The Malden Cascade (100 ft. high) is near the Lvnde mansion (built 
in 1040). The Fells may be entered from Melrose or Stoneham; or by 
Summer St., from Malden; or bv Forest St., from Medford. The nearest 
way is by the Boston and Maine R. R. to Stoneham Centre, whence horse- 
cars to Marble St., near Cheese Rock. The tract covers six square miles, 
“ The White Mts. in miniature,” and may become a State park. 

The railroad passes along Mystic Pond, near which lived Nanepashemet. 
“the Moon-God,” an early sachem of the Mass. Indians, lie was killed 
in battle, about 1611), and buried in his fortress here. Winchester, with 
its pretty villas, is in a town of 5,000 inhabitants, w r ith manufactures 
(chiefly of leather) reaching over $2,000,000 a year. A branch line leads 
thence to Woburn (Central House), a city of 14,000 inhabitants, with 
annual manufactures of $6,000,000 (leather, shoes, glue, &c.), a fine sol¬ 
diers’ monument, a very handsome library, and 7 churches. From E. 
Woburn a branch runs 1 M. E. to Stoneham (Centred House), with 6,000 
inhabitants, and $2,500,-000 worth of manufactures (shoes and leather) 
annually. On the S. is the romantic Spot Pond, surrounded by hills, and 
143 ft. above (he sea, studded with islands, and covering 283 acres. It 
was found and named by Gov. Winthrop, in 1632. 

Stations, N. Woburn, Wilmington, Billerica. The latter station is in 
an extensive farming town. Tewksbury, 2 M. N. of the station, is the 
seat of a large institution for the State’s paupers. Shortly after leaving 
N. Billerica the line crosses the Concord River and enters Lowell. 


Lowell. 

Hotels. —The Merrimac, American, and St. Charles Houses are the chief 
hotels. 

Pawtucket Falls was a favorite fishing-place of the Indians until their 
extinction, and was often visited by Eliot and Gookin. In 1826 a town 
was set off here, and named Lowell, in honor of a Newbuiypoit gentle¬ 
man who introduced the cotton-manufacture into the United States. 
The Pawtucket Canal extends from the head of the Falls to the Concord 
River below the city, and furnishes an immense water-power, having a 
fall of 33 ft. To obviate the trouble caused by an occasional decrease of 
water in the Merrimac River, a large dam has been built at the outlet 
of Lake Winnepesaukee (commenced in 1846). The Pawtucket ( anal 


190 Route 29. 


LOWELL. 


was cut late in tlie last century, for purposes ol navigation, but did no 4 , 
pay, and was bought, in 1821 by Bostonians, who established a iactory 
here. There were then 12 houses here, and in 1828 the population had 
risen to 3,532. The Merrimack Mills were started in 1823, and turn out 
50,000,000 yards of cotton cloth yearly. Their chimney is 283 ft. high. 

Beginning up-stream, the first line of factories belongs to the Lawrence 
Mills Co., while on the canal are the Tremont and Suffolk Mills. Below 
the Lawrence Mills are the immense Merrimack Mills and Print Works 
(foot of Prince St.), which are succeeded along the river-front by the Boott 
and the Massachusetts Mills. The Middlesex, Prescott, Appleton, Hamil¬ 
ton, and Lowell Carpet Mills are on the canal, S. of Merrimack St. 

In 1884 there were in Lowell 170 factory-buildings, with a capital of § 18,000,000, 
running 900,000 spindles and 24,000 looms, and employing 13,000 women and 
14,000 men. They use annually 105,000 tons of coal, 15,000 bushels of charcoal, 
133,000 gallons of oil, 1,800 tons of starch, 38,000 tons of cotton, and 8,000 tons of 
wool. They produce annually 240.000,000 yards of cotton cloth, 10,000,000 yards 
of woollens, 3,500,000 yards of carpeting, 120,000 shawls, 16,500,000 pairs of hose ; and 
100,000,000 yards of cloth are dyed and printed. There are, also, manufactories of 
cassimeres, patent-medicines, cartridges, flannels, wire-goods, bolts, and the only 
bunting-factories in the country. 316 engines furnish 27,700 horse-power, and 
23,000 horse-power is derived from the canals. The city water-works (finished in 
1872) cost $ 1,820,569. The City Library has 28,000 volumes, and the Mechanics’ 
Library has 14,000. 

The railroads which converge at Lowell are the Boston and Lowell, Lowell and 
Nashua, Stonv Brook, Lowell and Lawrence, Framingham and Lowell, and Lowell and 
Andover. Horse-railroads traverse the city streets, enabling visitors to reach the 
chief points of interest with ease and comparative comfort. 

When the factory system was first inaugurated, the operatives were 
mostly Americans, but now the mills are worked almost entirely by Irish, 
Nova Scotians, and French Canadians. So, with the 27,000 operatives, 
mostly foreign, Low'ell possesses but little of the aspect of a New' England 
city. The French have a large church (Catholic). The great Church of 
the Immaculate Conception is in Belvidere, near the hospital of St. John. 
The city has 78,000 inhabitants, with 31 churches, 91 schools, about 9,000 
dwelling-houses, 10 lodges of Masons, and 4 of Odd Fellow's. 

Merrimack St. is the main thoroughfare of the city, and contains long 
lines of shops. On this street is the Post-Office, City Hall, and a vener¬ 
able-looking Episcopal Church and rectory. On S. Common is the Eliot 
Church, also the buildings of Middlesex County (which was organized in 
1643, together with Essex, Suffolk, and Norfolk Counties). On Merrimack 
St. is the City Library; and the Y. M. Christian Association has pleasant 
reading-rooms, corner of Merrimack and Central Sts. 

Lowell has been visited by Presidents Jackson, Tyler, Polk, Pierce, and 
Grant. Sir Charles Lyell came here, also Charles Dickens, who devoted 
a chapter (IV., American Notes) to it, and Fredrma Bremer, who speaks of the 
“glorious view from Drewcroft’s Hill on a cold winter evening, of the manufac¬ 
tories of Lowell lying below in a half-circle, glittering with a thousand lights, like 
a magic castle on the snow-covered earth.” 

By going to the upper end of Merrimac St., and turning to the 1., one 
comes to the bridge over the Merrimac, from which a view of Pawducket 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 191 


Falls and the canal entrance may be gained. On a little enrailed green 
on Merrimac St. the city has erected a monument to two of her young 
men, Ladd and Whitney, who belonged to the 6th Mass. Militia Reg* 
and were killed during the murderous attack on that corps by the roughs 
of Baltimore, April 19, 1S61. Near this monument is a * bronze statue 
of \ ictory, by the celebrated German sculptor, Rauch, which has been 
elected as a memorial to the men of Lowell who fell in fighting against 
the Rebellion. 

Alter leaving Lowell, the line follows the Merrimac River to Concord. 
A seat on the r. is preferable. Stations, Middlesex, and N. Chelmsford. 
Middlesex is at the N. end of the old Middlesex Canal, running from this 
point to Boston, 27 M. It was completed in 1808, at a cost of $528,000, 
and had 20 locks in a fall of 136 ft., but since the era of railroads began, 
it has been neglected, and is not used. At N. Chelmsford the Stony 
Brook Railroad comes in from Ayer Junction. The line sooii 

regains the banks of the Merrimac near Wicassic Falls, and stops at 
Tyngsboro', soon after which it crosses the State line and enters New 
Hampshii-e. A short distance above Tvngsboro’, across the Merrimac, is 
Woodlawn Park, with its large hotel, pine groves, mineral spring, etc. 
($9-18 a week). 

The next station is Nashua (Laton House ; Tremont). 

The town of Dunstable (in which Nashua was included) was settled 
before King Philip’s War, and was bravely defended through that and 
the succeeding conflicts. So late as 1803, the present site of the city was 
a sandy plain covered with pine-trees. The Nashua Manufacturing Co. 
was chartered in 1823, and factories were erected along the canals, while 
the new village grew in importance, until in 1853 it became a city. 

Nashua is a^leasant city (20,000 inhabitants), situated on hilly ground 
at the confluence of the Merrimac and Nashua Rivers. It has 11 churches, 
6 bodies of Masons, 3 of Odd Fellows, and 2 daily and 3 weekly news¬ 
papers. The streets are broad and well-lighted, and lined with trees, 
while some of the churches and private residences are of pleasing appear¬ 
ance. “ By the wondrous alchemy of skill and enterprise, out of the 
waters of the Nashua and the sands of this pine plain, from some half 
a dozen dwellings have been raised up these thronged and beautiful 
villages.” 

The water-power is taken from Mine Falls on the Nashua River, from 
which a canal has been cut 3 M. long, 60 ft. wide, and 8 ft. deep, with a 
head and fall of 36 ft. The Nashua Manufacturing Co. and other cotton 
mills have over 2,000 operatives. 110 men are engaged in making cards 
and glazed paper ; 150 men make locks; 75 make fans; 40 make sus¬ 
penders; 70 are engaged on soapstone work; and 160 make shuttles and 
bobbins. 


192 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


The Vale Mills consume 500 bales of cotton; and the immense 

Nashua Iron Works consume 3,000 tons of iron, 800 tons of steel, and 

4,000 tons of coal each year. Besides the goods already mentioned, 

Nashua produces yearly 30,000 yards of ingrain carpets. 

Nashua is the terminus of the Boston. Lowell & Nashua, Concord, Wilton 
Branch, Nashua, Acton & Boston, Nashua & Rochester, and Wor. & Nashua R. Rs. 


Nashua to Wilton. 

From the latter station the Wilton Branch R. R. runs 16 M. N. W. to Wilton. 
This line passes through a pleasant and retired hill-country, much frequented by 
city people in summer. 

Stations, S. Merrimac and Amherst. The main village of Amherst town is some 
distance N. of the station, and the popular Amherst Spring (good hotel) is about 
3 M. from the station (stages to the village and springs). The village is on a high 
plain, £ M. square, and abounds in shade-trees. 

This town was granted to Essex Co. veterans of the Narragansett War, and 
was named in 1760, in honor of Gen. Amherst, the commander in the Conquest 
of Canada. It sent 120 men to the Continental Army, although its population in 
1775 was larger than in 1870. In a small farmhouse, 5 M. from Amherst village, 
Horace Greeley was born, Feb. 3, 1811. He learned the printer’s trade in Poult- 
ney, Vt., between his 15th and 19th year, and soon after went to New York, where 
he started several papers (the Morning Post, New-Yorker, Jeffersonian, Log-Cabin). 
In 1S41 he founded the New York Tribune, which became one of tire most 
powerful and spirited of the New York newspapers, and advocated the abolition 
of slavery, the elevation of the laboring classes, and the protection (by tariff) 
of American manufactures. Mr. Greeley generally supported the measures of 
the Republican party from its origin until 1872 although favoring a more 
extended amnesty for the Southern States. In 1872 he joined the Liberal party, 
which seceded from the Republicans on account of dissatisfaction with President 
Grant’s administration. He was nominated as candidate for the Presidency by 
the Liberal Convention at Cincinnati, and by the Democratic Convention at Bal¬ 
timore. After a long and bitter campaign, Grant was re-elected, and soon after, 
worn out by toil, Mr. Greeley died near New York. He was eccentric in many of his 
ways, and loved a quiet, rural life, while his powerful and pungent editorials made 
him the leading journalist in America. ^ 

Station, Milford, a manufacturing vil¬ 

lage on the broad meadows of the Souhegan River. Stages run daily to Mount 
Vernon, with its “beautiful prospect of towns and villages in the Merrimac and 
Souhegan valleys. Sunrise in summer brings to view a vast expanse, including 
the beautiful villages of Massachusetts ; while from the spire of the church can 
be seen the snow-white sails upon the distant ocean. The name is a fit emblem 
of the spot; for, clustering around this eminence, are numerous farms, in the mild 
seasons clad in the richest verdure.” The McCollom Institute is an efficient 
academy at Mt. Vernon, which has also a desk-factory. The town is frequented 
by summer visitors. Milford has 3,000 inhabitants. 2 banks, a handsome town- 
hall, a public library, and 2 churches. 60 of its soldiers died in the Civil War. 
The town produces fruit and milk, and manufactures cotton cloth, yarn, etc. 

Station," Wilton (Everett House), a manufacturing village in a glen on the 
Souhegan River. 2,000 gallons of milk, besides other dairy products, are sent to 
Boston daily from this town. This is a popular summer resort (2£ hours from 
Boston), being rich in hill-scenery and falling waters. Barnes’ Cascade, Pack 
Monadnock Mt., and Lyndeborough are often visited. (See page 423). 

Nashua to Concord. 35 M. 

Stations (on the main line), Thornton's Ferry, Merrimac, Reed's Ferry , 
Goff's Falls, and Manchester. 


MANCHESTER. 


Route 29. 193 


Manchester. 

Hotels. — Hotel Windsor, Manchester St., $2,50; Manchester House, Elm St.: 
City Hotel, Elm St. ’ 

This city was settled early in the last century by conflicting colonies of Scotch 
Presbyterians and Massachusetts Puritans. For 75 years from its settlement, Derry- 
field (as it was then called) had neither a minister nor a lawyer, nor did it send any 
of its youth to college. The large fisheries at the Falls attracted the settlers here. 

In 1831 there were less than 100 residents nere, but at that time the Amoskeag 
Manufacturing Co. bought the land E. of the falls, and laid the foundations of a 
great city, which numbers over 40,000 inhabitants, with a valuation of about 
$ 20 , 000 , 000 . 

Manchester (44,000 inhabitants) is the most populous city in New Hamp¬ 
shire, and is built on a broad plain near the Merrimac River. Elm Street 
is its principal thoroughfare, and is 100 ft. wide and over a mile long. 
Public squares, with ponds enclosed in their limits, have been laid out in 
different parts of the city, and among the churches may be noticed the 
Unitarian, on Beech St., the Catholic and the Episcopal on Lowell St., and 
the Convent and Church of St. Ann, on Merrimac St. The City Library 
contains about 20,000 volumes, and there are 2 daily and 4 weekly news¬ 
papers. The compact lines of tenement-houses, near the factories, were 
built for the operatives. The best streets are out of sight from the rail¬ 
road, in the E. and N. of the city, and have many fine residences and 
public houses. A grand view is given from Shirley Hill, 0 M. out, and a 
summer-resort. 

The water-power of Manchester is furnished by the Blodgett Canal, built 
in 1816 around the Amoskeag Falls on the Merrimac River. These Falls 
have a descent of 47 feet, with rapids above, and in high water they afford, 
even now, a grand sight. The Amoskeag, Stark, and Amory Mills, and 
the Manchester Print Works are located along the canal. The Amoskeag 
Co. has 12 mills, with 250,000 spindles, employing 7,000 hands; and 70,000 
bales of cotton are consumed yearly in the factories of the city. Manches¬ 
ter has 30 churches, 60 schools (with 2,800 pupils), 5 banks and 6 savings- 
banks, and several halls. A fine opera-house was built in 1880. 

The Manchester Mills employ 3,000 persons, and produce nearly 28,000,000 yards 
of cloth yearly ; the Stark Mills employ 1,700 hands, 26,000,000 yards yearly ; 
the Manchester Locomotive Works, 500 men, 200 locomotives yearly ; hosiery mills, 
140,000 dozen pair yearly ; and there are manufactories of paper, castings, car¬ 
riages, etc. 

Lake Massabesic (* Massabesic House, 100 guests, $ 2.50 a day, $ 10.00 
a week) is 4 M. E. from the city, on the Candia road. The Portsmouth 
Railroad has a station near the hotel. The Lake is 4 M. long, and 
very irregular in outline, having 31 M. of shore, with some beaches of 
white sand, while numerous picturesque islets dot its surface. The Fairy 
Grotto and a curious sulphur cave (Devil’s Den) are often visited. 

9 M 


194 Route, 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


The Manchester and N. Weare R. R. runs N. W. 19 M., passing the stations, 
Bedford, Goffstown, Parker’s, Oil Mills, Raymond, and E. Weare, to N. Weare, 
in a busy manufacturing town. The Concord and Portsmouth R. R. runs from 
Manchester to Portsmouth ; and a railroad runs S. E. to Lawrence in 

26 M. 

After leaving Manchester, on the main line, the train passes Martin’s 
Ferry, and stops at Hooksett {Ayer House ; Stearns House). Just be¬ 
fore reaching the station, the Merrimac is crossed by a bridge 550 ft. long. 
This village is the seat of cotton factories and extensive brickyards (mak¬ 
ing 10,000,000 bricks a year), and derives considerable water-power from 
16 ft. falls in the river. In the W. of the town is a lofty and ragged 
pile of rocks called Pinnacle ML, from whose summit a good view of 
the valley is gained. At its base is a deep, clear pond which has no 
visible outlet. This town is on the reservation given by Massachusetts to 
Passaconoway, the great Sachem of the Pennacooks. His son and suc¬ 
cessor, Wonnolaneet, was converted by the apostle Eliot, and when King 
Philip’s ardent eloquence had persuaded the Pennacooks to enter the 
anti-English Confederation, he resigned the sachemdom, and went to 
Canada with his family. Branch railroads diverge from Hooksett to Sun- 
cook and Concord, and to Allenstown and Pittsfield (see page 417). The 
main line passes along the W. bank of the Merrimac, through the an¬ 
cient town of Bow, to 

Concord. 

Hotels. — * Eagle Hotel, opposite the State House, $ 3 a day; * Phenix 
Hotel. Main St., S3 a day ; Elm House ; and several smaller hotels. 

Libraries. — The State Library (13,000 volumes); the City Library (9,000 vol¬ 
umes), School St.; N. H. Historical Society (7,000 volumes), Main St. 

Railroads. — To Boston, 75 M.; Portsmouth, 59 M.; Claremont. 54£ M.; White- 
River Junction, 69 M. ; Hillsborough Bridge, 27 M.; Lancaster, 135 M. 

Stages daily to Loudon Ridge, 15 M. N. E. ; Ilopkinton, 7\ M. W.; and Dunbar¬ 
ton (Prospect House), 10 M. S., a lofty summer-resort village, overlooking 37 towns. 

The territory now covered by Concord was granted by Massachusetts in 1725, 
and occupied soon after, the Pennacook Indians giving way. It was named Rum- 
ford in 1733, and 8 years later was confirmed as a part of New Hampshire, to the 
great regret of the settlers, who petitioned the king to give the territory back to 
Mass. At the breaking out of war with France, seven timber forts were built, 
in which the 96 men of the town, with their families, lived in state of siege. 
Several of the townsmen were killed or captured. For many years a litigation 
was carried on between the proprietors of the town of Bow and the Rumfordites, 
the former claiming that the grant from Mass, under which Rumford was settled 
was illegal and void. The N. II. courts decided that the Mass, grant was value¬ 
less, and then the vexed colonists sent two commissioners with an appeal to the 
king. He decided in favor of the Rumford people, and by an order in council 
confirmed them in their rights. As late as 1772, negroes were bought and sold 
here, and bears and wolves were very troublesome to the farmers. The name 
Concord was adopted in 1765, and in 1816 the town was made the State capital. 

Concord, the capital of the State of New Hampshire, is a handsome 
city of 17,000 inhabitants, situated on the W. side of the Merrimac River, 
equally distant from the ocean and from the Connecticut River. Main 
and State Streets run parallel with the river, and are broad and pleasant 
avenues. The abundance of shade-trees on these and the cross-streets 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 2d. 195 


gives the city a pleasant embowered appearance. The State Capitol is a 
fine structure, fronting across a small park on Main St. It is built of 
Concord granite, and the projecting portico is sustained by eight pairs of 
coupled columns. The State Library is in a hall opening off the first 
lobby, which is richly decorated with the colors of the N. H. regiments in 
the Secession War. Ihe halls of the Senate and House of Representa¬ 
tives are neat and commodious. The building is surmounted by a lofty 
and graceful dome, from which a pleasant view is obtained. 

The City Hall and Court House is on Main St., N. of the Capitol, and 
is a neat brick building, surmounted by a round dome. 

Concord has 3 banks and 4 savings-banks, a large mercantile trade, and 
a valuation of $ 14,500,000. There are 5 papers, and 12 churches. The 
water supply is from Penacook Lake, 3 xM. N. W. The city has 4 bridges 
across the Merrimac. 7 M. of horse-railway run to W. Concord and 
Penacook. U. S. Government building on State St. 

The Slate Asylum for the Insane has fine buildings in the W. part of 
the city. It was founded in 1842, since which it has treated over 3,500 
patients. Its present capacity is 350 patients, and many are discharged 
yearly as cured. The State Prison is on Main St. 

Benjamin Thompson, Count Rum ford, born at Woburn, Mass., 1753, was long a 
resident of Concord (then called Rumford). At the time of the Revolution 
(being then a school-teacher at Rumford), he was unjustly suspected of disloyalty 
to the American cause, and was annoyed until he took refuge in the British lines. 
He became an under-secretary in Lord Germaine’s cabinet at London, and after¬ 
wards raised the “ King’s American Dragoons ” in New York, with which he 
surprised and dispersed Marion’s men (1782). He was knighted by King George, 
and in 1784 became chamberlain and aid-de-camp to the Elector of Bavaria. 
Here he reorganized the army, suppressed beggary, made the Park at Munich, 
and kept the Electorate neutral during the Franco-Austrian War. He was made 
State councillor, lieut-gen., minister of war, count (taking the title from his old 
home), and head of the regency. He founded the Royal Institution at London, 
married the widow of Lavoisier, and became one of the leading scientists of 
Europe. He discovered that heat is only a mode of motion, and wrote exten¬ 
sively on light, heat, and other scientific subjects. He endowed a professorship 
in Harvard University, and passed the last 16 years of his life in scientific ex¬ 
periments. His daughter, the Countess of Rumford, lived in Concord until her 
death, in 1852. A fine bronze statue of the Count has been erected in one of the 
principal promenades of Munich (near the Hotel des Quatre Saisons). 

Abbot, Downing, & Co.’s coach and express-wagon works at Concord are the 
largest in the world, and their wagons are sent to Japan, Australia, and California, 
besides being in high repute throughout the Atlantic States. Hill’s harnesses 
(75 men in the works) are also sent to all parts of the world. The Prescott Melo- 
deons have been made here since 1837, and a furniture company uses $ 1,000,000 
worth of lumber yearly. At Pmacoolc are large furniture-factories. Inexhaustible 
quarries of fine granite are worked on Rattlesnake Ilill, 1 M. N. W. 

St. Paul’s School (Episcopal; 220 boys) has stately buildings, 2 M. W. » M. 
distant is a monument to so.diers slain here by Indians in 1740. 

The Birchdale-Springs Hotel, 4i M. out, is a large and modern summer- 
hotel, for 100 guests, with the Concord and Granite Springs (for dyspepsia, lung 
troubles, and diseases of the skin and blood), among beautiful groves, on high, dry, 
and sandy hills in a rich farming country. Noble views from Polio Mill. 

A beautiful ante-colonial tradition of this locality is preserved by Whittier in 
“ The Bridal of Peunacook,' 1 picturing the Merrimac valley centuries ago, when 


] 96 Route 29. BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


“ In their sheltered repose, looking out from the wood 
The bark-builded wigwams of Pennaeook stood, 

There glided the corn-dance, the council-fire shone. 

And against the red war-post the hatchet was thrown. 

There the old smoked in silence their pipes, and the young 
To the pike and the white-perch their baited lines flung ; 

There the boy shaped his arrow, and there the shy maid 
"Wove her many-hued baskets and bright wampum braid.” 

Concord and Claremont R. R., 56 J M. Fare, $2. 

Passing the high-placed Penitentiary and the W.-Concord granite-quar- 
ries, and crossing the Contoocook, the train reaches Contoocook, whence a 
branch runs to Henniker (Noyes House), a beautiful old village; Hills¬ 
borough. ( Valley House), the birthplace of President Pierce; Antrim 
(Carter House); Bennington (Dodge Farm, in summer); Hancock Junction, 
crossing the Manchester and Keene R. R.; and Peterboro (see page 413). 
Beyond Contoocook is Warner ( Warner and Kearsarge-Mt. Hotel , $6- 
10 a week), a pleasant summer-resort, with 2 churches, a large high-school, 
a bank, and a library. The streets are shaded with rock-maples, and are 

neat and quiet. A road runs thence 5 M. N. to Mt. Kearsarge. There 
are many pleasant drives in the vicinity, through a picturesque region. 

Bradford ( Bradford House; Raymond) is a charming village near the 
island-strewn Bradford Pond, much frequented by summer-visitors. Love- 
well’s and Sunapee Mts. are near; and Mt. Kearsarge is 10 M. N. E. 
Stages run 5 M. S. W. to the Bradford Mineral Springs (Bradfrrd- 
Springs Hotel), 1 M. from E. Washington. They 

were used by the Indians; and in 1840 the Hermitage hotel was built 
here. The waters are beneficial in scrofula, and diseases of the kidneys, 
stomach, and skin. The hotel has recently been doubled in size. There 
is fine lake and mountain scenery in the vicinity. Stages run daily from 
Bradford to New London (13 M. N.). Between Bradford and Sunapee, 
the railroad traverses a cutting through 400 ft. of hard slag-like rock. 

Sunapee Lake is a beautiful sheet of water, 9 M. long, and 1J-3 M. 
wide, in the midst of romantic scenery, and abounding in fish. A steam¬ 
boat runs thrice daily from Newbury station, 8 M. to Blodgett’s Landing, 
Great Island, Lake View, Liberty Island, Pine Cliff, Sunapee Harbor 
( Runals House , $ 5-9 a week), and George’s Mills. The lake is sur¬ 
rounded by picturesque highlands, and has wooded shores and pretty 
islands. In its limpid waters dwell black bass, trout, salmon, pickerel, and 
perch. Summer-boarders visit Garnet Hill, Indian Cave, Newport (6 M.), 
Mt. Sunapee (3£ M.), and other points. Wm. C. Sturoc, a native of 
Arbroath, Scotland, who lives near the Harbor, is known as “ The Bard of 
Sunapee.” N. P. Rogers called this lake “the Loch Katrine of America.” 
The Lake-View House, 4 M. from Newbury, has telegraph, billiards, and 
bowling ($7- 10 a week). From the lake are seen Kearsarge, Cardigan, 
Croydon, and other stately peaks. Within ten years Sunapee has become 
a favorite summer-resort, with tents, cottages, and good hotels. 

Station, Newport (Newport House; Phenix House), the shire-town of 
Sullivan Co., a pleasant village enwalled by hills, and situated on the 
Sugar River. Several small mountains are situated in this town, and there 
are romantic glens along the Sugar River and its branches. Sunapee 
Lake is 6 M. distant, and Croydon Mt., the highest summit in the county, 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 2d. 197 


is 9 - 10 M. N. in the bleak and granite-strewn highland town of Croydon 
Beyond Newport the line follows the impetuous Sugar River through its 
glens and gorges to Claremont ( Belmont House ; Sullivan House). This 
town was settled in 1767 by Connecticut men, and was named for Lord 
Clive’s summer mansion. There is much rich alluvial land in the town, 
and the valley is bounded by a great range of hills. Claremont village is 
at the rapids on Sugar River, where a fall of 150 ft. in less than a mile 
gives a great water-power. The Monadnock Mills, the Sugar River Paper 
Mills, the Claremont Manufacturing Co., the Sullivan Machine Co., and 
other corporations have their works here. Immense quantities of rags are 
consumed in the manufacture of paper. 

Over 3,500,000 yards of cotton cloths, 70,000 yards of doeskins, 
70,000 yards of flannels, are made here yearly. Claremont village has 6 
churches and a fine high school, which was endowed by Paran Stevens, 
the American hotel-king. Flat Rock, Twist Back, and Bible Hill are 
visited by those who summer here, while from Green Mt. a fine view of 
the Conn, valley is enjoyed. Aseutnev is 10 M N. 

2 >1. from Claremont the railroad connects with the Central Vermont. Daily 
stages from Newport to Grantham, Croydon, Goshen, Washington, E. 

Unity, and Lempster; and from Claremont to Cornish Flat, Meriden, and Lebanon. 

Concord to White-River Junction and Montreal. 

The Montreal train passes at Concord on to the rails of the Northern 
(N. H.) R. R., and runs N. from Concord on the r. bank of the Merrimac. 
Just after passing the manufacturing village of Fisherville, at the con¬ 
fluence of the Merrimac and Contooeook Rivers, the train crosses a bridge 
to Duston’s Island, and thence by another bridge to the shore. On this 
island Mrs. Duston, of Haverhill, killed her Indian captors and escaped. 
The line now runs along the broad intervales of Boscawen (two stations). 

A monument was erected here in 1S74, consisting of a massive granite pedestal, 
on which is a statue of the heroine (7.) ft. high), with a tomahawk in one hand 
and a bunch of scalps in the other. Fisherville ( Pennacook House) has 4 
churches, an academy, library, bank, and 300 houses, and manufactures yearly 
$1,300,000 worth of cotton and woollen goods, Hour, lumber, etc., by the water¬ 
power of the Contooeook River. Boscawen Plain (AmbroseHotel) is a ven¬ 
erable old hamlet on the Merrimac, with a broad, straight, and shady street. 
The town contains 1,637 inhabitants. Stages run W. to the lofty hamlet of Web¬ 
ster, on Courser Hill. Boscawen was the birthplace of C. G. Greene, founder of 
the “ Boston Post” ; Senator W. P. Fessenden, and Gen. John A. Dix. 

Stations, Webster Place and Franklin (Webster House; Franklin 
House). 2 M. S. W. of Franklin village Daniel Webster was born, in 
1782. The family moved to a new home near Webster Place, and 
he afterwards bought this latter estate, and used to retire there to rest. 
Franklin village is near the confluence of the Winnepesaukee and Pemi- 
gewasset Rivers, which form the Merrimac. It is a thriving mechani¬ 
cal village of 3,000 inhabitants, with 4 churches, a paper, library, acad¬ 
emy, and bank, and manufactories of paper, flannels, socks, needles, etc. 


198 Route 2d. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


A branch runs from Franklin up the Pemigewasset valley 13 M., passing 
Hill Village ( Ladd's Hotel), with Periwig Mt. on the 1., to Bristol ( Bristol 
House), a pretty village at the confluence of the Newfound and Pemige¬ 
wasset. 2 M. N. is the beautiful Newfound Lake, 7 M. long and 3 M. 
wide. Sugar-Loaf Mt. is on the W. shore, and Crosby Mt. is on the E. 
A daily stage runs from Bristol, on a road which gives frequent glimpses of 
the lake, to Hebron (Union House), near its N. end. The Lake-View 
House is 5 M. from Bristol (150 guests ; $ 5 -10 a week). 

After leaving Franklin, the main line passes Webster Pond and the 
bleak and precipitous range of Ragged Mt. on the r., and stops at the 
quiet little village of E. Andover (Lake House), near its long, bright lake. 
Andover ( Proctor House , billiards, steam-heat, liverv-stable, etc.), is sur¬ 
rounded by noble scenery. The next station is Potter Place (Ivearsarge 
House), named for the magician Potter. Stages run from this station to 
Mount Kearsarge (4 M. S.), an isolated peak, with a rocky summit 2,461 
ft. above the sea. It affords a noble* view in a clear day, including, on 
the W., Sunapee and Lovewell’s Mt., and the blue Sunapee Lake, and 
Croydon and Ascutnev, with the vast range of the Green Mts. closing the 
horizon behind them. In the N. is Cardigan Mt., with the Pemigewasset 
Mts. in the distance, and swinging around to the r. are the Franconia and 
the White Mts., with Lake Winnepesaukee in the N. E. In the nearer E. 
is the thronged and prosperous valley of the Merrimac, while countless 
villages dot the landscape on every side. Far up on the sloping side of the 
Mt. is the Winslow House, a far-viewing summer-hotel. 

The splendid and commanding granite peaks of Mt. Cardigan are to the N., 
in Alexandria (daily stages from Bristol, in 4 M.). Stages run OA M. S. W. from 
Potter Place, through Wilmot Flat, to New Condon (.Highland House), the seat 
of the famous New-Londou Literary aud Scientific Institution. 

Stations, W. Andover , S. Danbury , and Grafton (Grafton House). 
Grafton is S. of Cardigan Mt., and at Glass Hill great quantities of mica 
are mined. The Pinnacle, on this hill, has a sharp precipice 150 ft. high 
on its N. side. Beyond Grafton Centre the line passes Isinglass Mt. and 
Tewksbury Pond on the 1., and stops at Canaan {Jerusalem-Spring House, 
$8 -14 a week). In 43 M. between Concord and Grafton the railway has as¬ 
cended over 800 ft. It now takes a slight down grade, following the 
valley of the Mascomy to the Conn. River. The pretty village of Canaan 
Street lies on the shore of Heart Pond. 

The Pinnacle House (25 guests), Cardigan House, and Crystal-Lake House 
are near Canaan, amid choice scenery. There are several summer boarding-houses 
in Enfield, and the steamer Helena runs on Mascomy Lake. Lebanon has the 
Chiron-Spring House (40 guests), at the foot of Chiron Mt.. and several farm 
boarding-houses (A. P. Ilowe, A. B. Smith, etc.). Southworth's Hotel is at W. 
Lebanon. 

The line now enters Enfield, and skirts Mascomy Lake (or Enfield 
Pond), a beautiful sheet of water 4 M. long, on whose S. W. shore is a 
rommunitv of Shakers. These industrious people furnish much fine wool 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 199 


to the market, also wooden-ware and garden seeds. In this town are the 
Granite State and Mount Calm Hotels, with some quiet and romantic 
scenery around Crystal Lake and Mount Calm. 

Stations, E. Lebanon and Lebanon (Sayre Hotel), a manufacturing 
village on an elevated plain near the Falls on the Mascomy (Nov-Anglice 
for the Indian Mascoma). Elastic sponge, scythes, flour, and machines 
are made here. Station, IF. Lebanon (small hotel), the seat of Tilden 
Seminary, whose fine buildings are seen on a commanding hill to 
the 1. The line now crosses the Connecticut River on an open bridge, 
affording good views up and down stream, and stops at White River 
Junction (Junction House, good). This is an important point in the 
northern railway systems, the roads which converge here being the 
Northern (N. II.) R. R., the southern and central divisions of the Cen¬ 
tral Vermont R. R., and the Connecticut k Passumpsic and Massawippi 
Valley R. R. By the nearest routes this Junction is distant from Boston 
142 M.; from New York, 260 M.; from Concord, 69 M.; from Spring- 
field, 124 M.; from Burlington, Vt., 104 M.; from Montreal, 184 M. 

There is a restaurant in the station. The train passes on to the Central 
Vermont Railroad, which passes over the Green Mts. The picturesque 
White River is followed for 25 M. The Woodstock Railroad runs from 
White-River Junction. 14 M. S. W. up the picturesque Otta Quechee River, 
crossing the profound Otta Quechee Gulf, to Woodstock (Eagle Hotel), the 
shire toAvn of Windsor Co., a beautiful rural hamlet with an elm-adorned 
park in the deep valley of the Otta Quechee. From Mt. Tom (near the 
village) a pleasing view is obtained down the long valley of the river. The 
village has 1,200 inhabitants, 6 churches, two weekly journals, a bank, and 
a large country trade, besides some manufactures. The Norman-Williams 
library, on the Park, is a handsome T-shaped round-arched building of 
red limestone and marble, dedicated in 1885, with memorial bronze, 
paintings, terra-cotta, and open timber roof. It is 100 ft. long. 

i 

George P. Marsh, U. S. Minister to Turkey, 1849-53, and to Italy, 1S61-73, 
was born here in 1801. He is distinguished as a philologist, in connection with 
the Norse language. Hiram Powers was bom here in 1805. He was a farmer’s 
son, and after many vicissitudes he learned the art of modelling in plaster, and 
opened a studio in Florence about 1837. Since then he has executed some of the 
finest sculptures of modern times. His “ Eve ” was highly commended by 
Tllorwaldsen, and the “Greek Slave” was a noble work, of which copies have 
been multiplied. “ II Penseroso,” “California,” “America,” “Proserpine,” 
and numerous other renowned works, including portrait-statues, have given him 
the highest rank among sculptors. 

Beyond Woodstock station the line crosses the crystal-clear river, and 
passes through the pretty scenery about W. Hartford to Sharon (Manley’s 
Hotel). The village is seen high up on the opposite shore. Strafford 
(Hazeltine House) and S. Strafford (Barrett House) are 6 to 8 M. from 
Sharon, by daily stages. 


200 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


In 1805, Joseph Smith, the founder of Mormonisra, was bom at Sharon, in 
1830 he published (at Palmyra, N. Y.) the book of Mormon, which he claimed to 
have translated from metallic plates found by him while under the guidance of 
angels. He went West with his converts, and founded Nauvoo, in Illinois, where 
he exercised despotic authority until 1844, when the wrath of the “Gentiles” in 
the neighboring towns was aroused by his unjust acts. He was imprisoned at 
Carthage, and soon after the jail was stormed by a mob, and he was killed. Brig¬ 
ham Young succeeded him as “President of the Church," and still maintains the 
title. (Rev. Solomon Spalding, of Conn., wrote a romance, “The Manuscript 
Found ” (in 1809). He allowed Sidney Rigdon and others to read his MS., which 
was soon after stolen from his widow, and those who had read the romance after¬ 
ward declared that the Mormon Bible was but a corrupt version of it. Rigdon 
became a prominent Mormon). 

Station, S. Royalton (S. Royalton House, good), with the station on 
one side of its main square, on which front the hotel, church, and stores. 
The river is now crossed by a bridge 600 ft. long, and the train stops at 
Royalton, where occurred, in October, 1780, the last Indian attack on 
New England. The attack was made by 210 Indians, who plundered and 
burnt the village (and also Sharon), killing and capturing 27 of its 
people. 

Daily stages N. to Chelsea (Orange Co. House), the shire-town of Orange County, 
passing through Tunbridge (13 M.). Also N. W. through E. Bethel and E. Ran¬ 
dolph, to E. Brookfield (16 M.). The Chelsea stages run from S. Royalton. 

Station, Bethel (Bascom House), a busy manufacturing village, in a glen 
among high hills. Daily stages to Barnard (Silver Lake House), 8 M. 
distant, and to Woodstock. Also to Stockbridge (10 M.), Pittsfield (13 
M.), Rochester (17 M.), and Hancock, four thinly populated towns (with 
small inns), under the shadow, of the Green Mts. 

Station, Randolph {Red-Lion Inn; Valley Farm), a busy village on 
the third branch of White River, which the railroad follows from Bethel 
to Roxburv. Stages run to Brookfield and Randolph Centre (3 M. N. 
E.). The country now grows wilder and more thinly inhabited. Station, 
Braintree, a rude village surrounded by rugged lulls. To the W. is 
Granville, with a road crossing the mountain-pass, 2,340 ft. above the sea. 
At Roxbury station (Summit House), the train reaches the summit of the 
pass, 1,000 ft. above the sea. Near the village are inexhaustible quarries 
of the best verd-antique marble. Crossing a bridge 400 ft. long and 70 ft. 
high, the train passes on to Northjield (Northfield House), in a populous 
town which has several quarries of dark blue slate. Norwich Univer¬ 
sity is situated here, in large buildings on a hill to the r. of the track. 

10 M. from Northfiejd is Montpelier Junction, whence a short branch 
road diverges to Montpelier (* Pavilion Hotel, opposite the station, $3 a 
day, $10 to $15 a week; and many boarding-houses). Montpelier, the cap¬ 
ital of the State of Vermont, is a beautiful village of about 4,000 in¬ 
habitants. It is situated on a plain near the Winooski River, and sur¬ 
rounded by a highly cultivated hill-country. 10 M. to the S. W. is the 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 201 


geographical centre of the State. The village is compactly built, and 
has 3 banks, 3 insurance cos. (the Vt. Mutual has $ 41,000,000 of 
risks), 5 weekly newspapers, and 6 churches, one of which is a noble 
piece of architecture. There are several flour-mills, lumber-mills, and 
tanneries, besides which the village has an extensive country trade. 
The * State House is a noble edifice of light-colored granite, on the 
site of the old State House, which was burnt in 1857. It stands on a 
slight eminence approached from a verdant Common by granite steps in 
terraces. The portico is supported by six massive fluted Doric columns, 
and under it stands a fine statue in Vermont marble of Vermont’s hero, 
Ethan Allen. It was executed by Larkin G. Mead, of Brattleboro’ (now 
living in Italy). 

Ethan Allen was born at Litchfield, Conn., in 1737. He moved to Vermont 
in 1760, and was outlawed by New York for His bold and defiant action in the 
border feuds. In 1775 he took Fort Ticonderoga from the British. Later in the 
year he attacked Montreal with 110 men, and was captured, with his whole com¬ 
mand. He was confined in Pendennis Castle, in England, for a short time, but 
was exchanged in 1778, and took command of the Vermont militia. A royal de¬ 
cree of 1764 had constituted the Connecticut River the E. boundary of New 
York (N. of Mass.), and Mass, and N. II. also claimed parts of its territory. But a 
convention at Westminster, in 1777, declared Vermont a free State. The Conti¬ 
nental Congress would not ratify this voice of the people, and all its troojis were 
withdrawn from the territory. Vermont, thus left alone, was unable to resist at¬ 
tacks from the British in the N., and Alien skilfully conducted feigned negotia¬ 
tions with the royal generals, looking towards annexation to Canada, and secur¬ 
ing neutrality for his State. It was only in 1791, after 26 years of controversy, 
that Vermont was admitted into the Union, — to offset Kentucky. After an 
eventful life, Ethan Allen died at Burlington in 1789. 

Under the portico of the State House are kept two cannon taken from 
Breyman’s Hessians at the battle of Bennington (1777), after a desperate 
struggle. The British got them back when Gen. Hull surrendered the 
Army of the N. W. at Detroit (August, 1812), and they were again taken 
by the Americans during the Canada campaign. They were sent to 
Washington, and afterwards were presented by Congress to the State of 
Vermont. The main building of the State House is 72 ft. long, and each 
of the wings is 52 ft., making a total length of 176 ft. The dome is 
124 ft. high, and is surmounted by a graceful statue of Ceres, the goddess 
of agriculture. The marble-paved lower floor is devoted to committee- 
rooms, and a small collection of historical and mineral curiosities. In 
large niches at the ends pf the neat lobby on the second floor are pre¬ 
served the battle-flags and pennons of the Vermont regiments in the 
Secession War. What with storm, forest-march, and many battles, these 
veteran standards have lost their pristine brightness and wholeness, and 
with the names of the battles in which they were borne written on them 
in golden letters, they are carefully kept behind plate-glass. The gallery 
of the Senate is entered from the third floor. The halls of the Senate 
and House are well worth visiting, being graceful in form and well 
ornamented. Four substantial bridges cross the Winooski River in 


202 Route 29. 


WATERBUIIY. — STOWE. 


Montpelier, and the country about the village affords many pleasant 
objective points. 

The State Library (built in 1886), just W. of the State House, has the Supreme 
Court room on its first floor, and above is the library (24,000 volumes), and also 
the Historical Hoorn, with the great painting of the First Vermont brigade at the 
battle of Cedar Creek. 

The Montpelier If Wells-River Railroad runs F. to Plainfield (Plainfield House), 
whence stages run to K. Calais, Woodbury, and Hardwick ; Marshfield , with stages 
to Cabot, 6 M. ; Groton Pond , Groton , and Wells River (see page 168). 

A railroad also runs S. E. to Williamstown, passing Barr e (Hotel Barre), where 
1200 men work in the granite-quarries. Stages from Barre to Washington (Lake 
House). Stages from Montpelier to Worcester aud Calais, and to Berlin. 

Beyond Montpelier Junction the mam line passes on to Middlesex 
(Washington House), near which (on the 1.) the Winooski River passes 
through the Middlesex Narrows, a cutting in the rock, 30 ft. deep, 60 ft. 
wide, and 1,300 ft. long, which has been worn by the action of the water. 
Stages run S. to Moretown (7 M.), Waitsfield (12 M.). Beyond 

Middlesex the train reaches Waterbury (* Waterbury House), a highland 
town abounding in pleasant rambles and rides, with frequent glimpses of 
Camel’s Hump (in the S. W.). Camel's Hump Mt. is 8 M. distant, and 
Bolton Falls are but 3 M. to the N. W., and both are approached by 
good roads. 10 M. N. E. of Waterbury (daily stage), is the rich farming town 
of Stowe, with a score of small summer boarding-houses, charging $5 to $7 a 
week each. Stowe is charmingly situated in a quiet valley in full sight of 
lofty mountains, and when tilled with summerguests it presents a lively ap¬ 
pearance. “Stowe is unrivalled in the beauty, picturesqueness, and luxu¬ 
riant magnificence of its mountain scenery.” From Sunset Hill, near the 
hotel, a fine view of the village is obtained, and also of Mt. Mansfield and 
Camel’s Hump. 4 M. N. E. of Stowe, on the slope of Worcester Mt., 
are the Moss (lien Falls, in a narrow rock-walled ravine which contains 
three picturesque basins. This bit of Tyrolese scenery has been greatly 
damaged by the erection of a saw-mill, for whose benefit the falls are 
dammed above. The Smugglers' Notch is a romantic pass between the Chin 
Peak of Mt. Mansfield and Sterling Mt. (3,500 ft. high). It is 9 M. from 
Stowe, and a good road leads to a small hotel in the Notch, near the great 
spring which is the source of the Waterbury River. A liorse-path beyond 
the hotel leads in \ M. to Berton’s Rock, a boulder weighing about 100 
tons, which fell from the abrupt cliffs that tower on each side to the 
height of 1,000 ft. A little way beyond, the path begins to descend to 
the plains of Cambridge. This pass was used during the War of 1812 for 
smuggling goods between Central Vermont and Canada. A few miles N. 
is Daniel’s Notch, between Sterling Mt. and the lofty White Face. Bing¬ 
ham’s Falls, 5 M. from Stowe, Morrisville Falls, 8 M., West Hill, 2 M. f 
and Gold Brook, 3 M., are often visited. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 203 


Mount Mansfield. 

This is the loftiest of the Green Mts., and its highest peak is 4,348 ft. 
above the sea. As seen from above Stow it presents the appearance of 
the profile of a human face, the S. peak being the forehead, the middle 
peak the nose, and the N. peak the chin. 

After leaving Stowe, the highway is followed for 5 M., and then a 
mountain road turns to the 1., ascending through the forest, 2| M., to the 
Half-Way House, from which a pretty valley view is gained. Here 
begins the long and arduous ascent to the Summit House. The forest 
dwindles away until the road reaches the Nose. 

The Summit House 

is a commodious hotel (for 100 guests ; $ 2.00 a day) situated at the base 
of the Nose , which is climbed by a steep path on its W. slope (2-300 ft. 
high). On the E. side of this peak is the rock-prolile called the “ Old 
Man of the Mt.” About 2 M. of steady, though not fatiguing ascent 
leads from the house to the Chin, passing over ledges marked by long 
scratches once received from rocks fixed in drifting icebergs, which passed 
over the silent waves of some shoreless primeval sea. The Chin is 340 ft. 
higher than the Nose, and is 3,800 ft. above Stow, and 4,348 ft. above 
the sea. This peak offers a more extensive northern view than that from 
the Nose (with an impressive view down the Notch), and is easily visited, 
although parties who go out to it usually stop over night at the Summit 
House, thereby gaining the superb effects of sunset and sunrisA 

The * * view from the Nose is very similar to that from the Chin, ancl is, perhaps, 
the noblest (though not the most extensive) in New England. On the S. are seen 
Camel’s Hump (15 M.) and Killington Peak (05 M.), with a great number of name¬ 
less peaks and ridges of the Green Mts. The great Lake Champlain fills the 
horizon from 8. W. to N. \V., being visible through the greater part of its extent, 
with the ancient blue Adirondacks lifting their cloud-like summits beyond. The 
apparently level lowlands of the Champlain valley are spread out like a map 
below, dotted with numerous white villages (beyond which is Burlington), and 
crossed by many streams. The great grazing district of the Lamoille valley 
stretches away to the N. W. and glimpses of the sparkling rivers, the Lamoille 
and the Winooski, are caught through the forests and foot-hills of the Green Mts. 
Far in the N. is the St. Lawrence River, with its valley dotted with Norman 
villages, and on the N. W., with a powerful glass and on a clear day, it is said that 
visitors have seen Mount Royal and the shining tin roofs of Montreal. E. of N., 
Jay Peak and Owl’s Head Mts. are seen, the latter rising from Lake Mem- 
phremagog, while still farther to the E. are Hor and Annanance, the mountains 
about Willoughby Lake. Farther to the r. are the Percy Peaks, and a little S. of 
E. the Franconia and White Mts. are seen low-lying on the horizon, 60 M. 
distant. 

4 M. beyond Waterbury, on the main line, is N. Duxbury. Camel’s 
Hump is reached thence by a road 3 M. long, leading to and beyond Pope’s, 
and then a vague path 3^ M. long The best path is from Huntington (8 
M. by stage from Richmond). The peak is 4,088 ft. high, and is named 
from its shape, the actual hump being a bunch of bare rock 150 ft. high. 

The view includes Montreal, and the White, Green, and Adirondack Mts. 
“ beautiful as is the eastern view it is immeasurably surpassed by the western 


204 Route 29. 


ST. ALBANS. 


The space between the Green Mts. and the Adirondack? may be styled a vallej’, with 
a broad and level bottom. It is from 15 to 30 M. wide, und 130 M. loug. This is 
the garden of Vermont; and from the top of the grand old Hump, verily it looks 
like a garden. It has the best features of a Swiss and English landscape com¬ 
mingled. Lake Champlain lietli in the midst of it, like a pearl set in a basket of 
verdure.’’ 

Near N. Duxburv, seen from the track (to the N.), are the Bolton Falls , 
amid some wild rock-scenerv in a deep ravine on the Winooski River. 
The line now follows the picturesque valley ol the Winooski by Bolton 
(Bishop House, $7 a week) to Janesville , whence stages run to W. Bol¬ 
ton (under Mt. Mansfield). Station, Richmond (Richmond House), a 
bright village in the widenings of the Winooski valley, with an extensive 
trade in butter and cheese. The mountain-ravines open out here on the 
Champlain valley, and the country becomes more thickly settled. A 
bridge, 000 ft. long, over the Winooski, is now passed, and the train 
enters the farming town of Williston. For several miles, running N. W. 
from this station, fine views are afforded from the train, — the Green Mts. 
with their two loftiest peaks looming up boldly on the r., while the distant 
Adirondacks are seen on the 1. Essex Junction is soon reached, whence 
trains run to Burlington (see Route £3) in 8 M., passing the remarkable 
gorges on the Winooski River. 

5 M. N. of Essex is Colchester, to the W. of which is a tall-spired 
village (Mallet’s Bay Hotel), and still farther W. is Mallet’s Bay, which is 
nearly land-locked, has numerous islets, and affords good bass and pike 
fishing. Ffequent views of Lake Champlain, the Adirondacks, and the 
Green Mts. are obtained from the cars as they pass N. to Milton ( Elm- 
Tree House; Proctor). This village is near the Great Falls of the Lamoille, 
7 M. from the river’s mouth. The river descends here 150 ft. in 800 ft., 
and affords a water-power for the Milton lumber-mills. The train crosses 
the Lamoille River on a high bridge 450 ft. long, and stops at the station, 
Georgia and Fairfax. Georgia village (Franklin House), is 3^ M. from 
the station, and Fairfax (Fairfax House) is 5 M. E. of the station, to 
which it has a stage. A small Baptist Theological School is 

located at Fairfax. 

St. Albans (* Welden House, first-class, $ 3 a day, $ 10 -15 a week; Amer¬ 
ican House) is a pretty village of about 8,000 inhabitants, situated on an 
elevated plain 3 M. from Lake Champlain. Main Street is the principal 
thoroughfare, and has several good commercial buildings. There is a 
neat park of 4 acres in the centre of the village, on whose sides are the 
hotels, the Franklin County buildings, the High School, and several 
churches, the best of which is a Norman-towered Episcopal Church built 
of red sandstone. Back of this is the large Catholic Church and the 
Convent of Notre Dame. The offices of the Central Vermont R. R 
occupy the spacious and imposing building at the station. In this 
vicinity are the immense repair and car-shops of the Central Vermont. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


Route 29. 205 


occupying over half a mile of buildings, and employing several hundred 
skilful workmen. These works are the largest of the kind in New 
England, and have turned out many locomotives and cars. The village 
has 3 banks, a daily and 2 weekly newspapers, 6 churches, and an 
admirable school-system. Tuesday is its market-day, when the farm¬ 
ers from Franklin Co. congregate in the streets, and great quantities 
of dairy products are sold. The quotations of butter and cheese at St. 
Albans affect the market throughout the Eastern States, and vast quanti¬ 
ties of these products are shipped in ice-cars to the N. Atlantic cities 
(mostly to Boston). Between 1850 and 1865 St. Albans sent away 
33,603,044 pounds of butter, and 16,628,097 pounds of cheese, having a 
value of nearly $12,000,000. N. of St. Albans are quarries of calico- 
stone and variegated marble, while a good sulphur-spring (appertaining 
to the Welden House) is in the environs. 

“ St. Albans is a place in the midst of greater variety of scenic beauty 
than any other that I remember in America. ” (Beecher. ) Bellevue HiU, 
2 M. S. W. from the station, and Aldis Hill, 1 M. N. E. of the village, 
are easy of ascent, and command lovely views. * Bellevue is 1,300 ft. 
above the lake, and a good road leads to the summit. It overlooks the 
village and the rich plains of Franklin Co., strewn with villages, while a 
broad expanse of Lake Champlain is spread out in the W., the view ex¬ 
tending over Grand Isle to the New York shore. In the S. W. the 
Adirondacks rise, “ not in chains or single peaks, but in vast broods, a 
promiscuous multitude of forest-clothed mountains. In the N. is scooped 
out, in mighty lines, the valley of St. Lawrence. ; and in clear days, the 
eye may spy the faint glimmer of Montreal.” (H. W. Beecher.) The 
Missisquoi valley is near, in the N., and Jay Peak lies to the E., from 
which the great line of the Green Mts. stretches away to the S., and 
Mount Mansfield is plainly visible. To the S. is the fertile Lamoille 
valley, running through Fairfax and Milton. Aldis Hill is only 500 ft. 
high, and is easily ascended. Its view, though less extensive than that 
from Bellevue, is of rare beaut}'. Prospect Hill also gives a fine view. 
The Rocky-Point Hotel is a summer-resort on Back Bay. 

Stages run E. to Fairfield (8 M.) and Bakersfield (14A M.). 

St. Albans was the scene of great excitement during the Canadian rebellion in 
1837, and several raiding parties (of refugees) crossed the border from this vicinity. 
In October, 1864, several strangers boarded at the hotels for a few days, and 
learned the habits of the people. When the bells rang at 3 o’clock, on the 19th 
of Oct., these men entered the banks in parties, and robbed them of their funds, 
while others of the band arrested every citizen on the street. .The robbers were 
22 in number, dressed in plain clothing and armed with revolvers, and, having 
secured what money they could, they stole a number of horses and fled, closely 
pursued by the citizens. During the firing which took place in the streets, one 
citizen was killed and several wounded. The plundering party (which was com¬ 
posed of escaped rebel prisoners) reached Canada with $208,000 in money, $80,000 
of which was returned to the banks by the British government. In June, 1866, 


206 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


1,200 Fenians from the cities of the coast marched from this place into Canada, 
and plundered a village. The provisions ol this party soon gave out, and thej 
returned to St. Albans, where they were disarmed by 1,000 U. S. troops, who 
»were encamped on the village Park for 2 weeks. Another fruitless raid was made 
in 1870. when the Fenians were repulsed at the frontier by embattled Canadian 
farmers. 

The scenery at St. Albans Bay is very attractive, and sportsmen catch great 
quantities of bass and pickerel about its picturesque islands and points. Good 
{trout-fishing is found in the brooks near the village, and water-fowl are shot 
about the Bay. The * Welden House charges $ 3 a day, and § 10 -15 a week. 

St. Albans to Rich ford. — The Missisquoi Railroad runs N. E. to Rich- 
ford in 2 hrs. Near Sheldon Springs station ( Congress Hall, 125 guests; 
$ 2.50 a day, $ 10 -15 a week) is the famous Missisquoi Spring, which has 
iso distinctive taste, but is alkaline in character, and is efficacious in cutane¬ 
ous diseases. Several other mineral springs rise near by, one of which is 
cathartic, and is used for dyspepsia and liver complaints. The great hotel 
here was burned in 1870, since which the springs have been less visited, 
though large quantities of the water are exported. The Sheldon Spring 
is ^ M. S. W. ; the Vermont Spring is 2 M. above; and the Central Spring 
is 2 M. distant. 

The Vermont Spring waters are mostly bottled and sent away, for the 
cure of diseases of the skin, cancer, &c. It is about 2 M. from the Mis- 
sisquoi, and there are numerous other mineral springs, differing in their 
properties, about the village. The Continental, Central, and Excelsior 
are among the most noted, while Sheldon Spring, near the Missisquoi 
Falls, has long been visited. The * Congress Hall Hotel, located near 
the latter spring, is a large and first-class house. The water flows at the 
rate of 14,000 gallons a day, and contains a large amount of carbonate of 
soda with potash. “ It is a very unusual alkaline, saline water, con¬ 
taining more silicic acid in solution than any on record. The presence of 
so much crenic acid is also remarkable, and, with the iron and magnesia, 
adds to the valuable constituents.” (Dr. IIayes.) The hot and cold 
baths (in convenient bath-houses) work wonderful cures in cases of rheu¬ 
matism, erysipelas and skin diseases, cancers and chronic ailments. From 
Bunion Hill (1 M. from Congress Hall) a vast panoramic view of the 
Green Mts. is obtained, while the silver waters of Lake Champlain, in the 
W., are overlooked by the blue Adironaeks. Considerable tracts of 
Lower Canada are included in this view, which is terminated on the N. 
by the spires of Montreal. The Missisquoi River falls 119 ft. near Shel¬ 
don Spring. At Sheldon village (Portland House) is the Central Spring, 
'ivhich, besides carbonates of lime, magnesia, iron, soda, and potassa, and 
Sulphate of lime, contains the valuable element of phosphoric acid. It 
cures cutaneous and pulmonary affections, dj'spepsia, rheumatism, etc. 

At Sheldon Junction this line is crossed by the St.-Johnsburv and 
Lake-Champlain Railroad, running to Maquam Bay; and intersected by 
a branch of the Canadian Pacific Railroad, running N. to Farnham, P, Q. 


JAY BEAK. — HIGHGATE SPRINGS. Routt 29. 207 


Hie Missisquoi Railroad no\r traverses several farming and dairy towns, 
by E. Franklin , Enosbury Falls , N. Enosbury , and A. Berkshire ; and 
reaches Richford ( American House ), a brisk manufacturing village, with 
the largest grain-elevator in New England. S. E. rises Jay Peak, over 
4,000 it. high and overlooking the St. Lawrence Valley, Lake Memphre- 
magog. Lake Champlain, and the White and Green Mts. and Adirondacks, 
a stupendous and glorious view. People go from N. Troy, a station be¬ 
tween Richford and Newport, by daily stage 11 M. S. to Westfield ( Reed's 
Hotel), and thence ascend Jay Peak by a path. 

The Canadian Pacific Railway passes through Richford, and is a part of the 
Boston & Montreal Air Line. It runs N. W. 84 M. to W. tarn ham, whence it is 
40 M. to Montreal. Toward the K. it reaches Newport, on Lake Memphremagog, 
in 31 M. 


Soon after leaving St. Albans, the main line passes Swanton Junction, 
where a railroad diverges to Rouse’s Point and Ogdensburg. 

Tills line passes through Swanton (Central House), a pretty village with a 
Soldiers’ Monument on its Green, consisting of a statue (in Vermont marble) of 
the Goddess of Liberty on a pedestal of gray Isle La Motte marble. Swanton 
was settled by the French in 1750, but they were crowded out within a half-cen¬ 
tury. Much marble, black, white, and red variegated, is quarried in this town. 
After crossing Missisquoi Bay on a trestle-bridge, the train stops at Alburgh 
Springs (Alburgh Springs House), whose mineral waters are much used for 
cutaneous complaints. The drives on the lake shore are very pleasant, and fish¬ 
ing and boating are favorite summer amusements. The peninsula of Alburgh was 
granted by the King of France, as a feudal seigniory, to Councillor Foucault, un¬ 
der whose orders it was settled in 1731. It was occupied by loyalist refugees late 
in the Revolutionary Era, and in 1837 was one of the frontier towns from which 
the insurgents in the “ Patriot War” made their raids into Canada. 

Passing the stations, Alburgh and W. Alburgh, the line crosses Lake Champlain 
at its N. end oil a long trestle-bridge. Fort Montgomery is seen on the r., com¬ 
manding the Richelieu River. After the works on this fort had gone on for some 
time, it was discovered to be in British territory, but a generous change of boun¬ 
dary gave the land to the United States, and the work was completed. On the 1. 
Isle La Motte may be seen far down the lake. 

Rouse’s Point (New York) is now reached. From this point the line runs 
W. through the Chateaugay Woods, passing Malone and Potsdam, to Ogdensburg, 
406 M. from Boston and 141 M. from St. Albans. Another railroad runs N. on 
the 1. bank of the Richelieu River, to St John’s (23 M.). 


After passing Swanton Junction and E. Swanton, the train on the main 
line stops at Highgate Springs (* Franklin House). The hotel is on one 
side of the track, and the spring-house on the other. The spring is alka¬ 
line, containing chloride of sodium, carbonate of soda, and sulphate of 
soda. E. of the Springs is the broad and beautiful Missisquoi Bay (Missi 
Kisco — much water-fowl), which is nearly land-locked, and abounds in 
fish. The Franklin House accommodates 160 ($2.50 a day;. $10-15 a week). 

3 M. S. E. is a considerable village at Highgate Falls , on the Missis¬ 
quoi River. The alkaline Champlain Spring is located here and is con¬ 
sidered a specific for dyspepsia, cutaneous eruptions, cancer, and con¬ 
sumption. Alburgh Springs on the W. and Missisquoi Springs on the S.’ 
E., are within easy distance of Highgate. Highgate was the birthplace 



208 Route 29. 


BOSTON TO MONTREAL. 


of John G. Saxe, whose poems of humor and pathos are widely known 
and read. 

About 3 M. beyond Highgate, the train leaves the United States, and 
enters Missisquoi County, in the Anglo-Canadian Province of Quebec. 
Stations, St. Armand, Moore's, and Stanbridge, on the plains of the Rich¬ 
elieu River. Stanbridge is a neat village, from which stages run to E. 
Stanbridge (3 M.) and Bradford. As the line passes farther out on the 
plains, the great isolated mountains of Rougemont and Beloeil are seen on 
the r. On Beloeil the Bishop of Nancy had an immense cross erected in 
1843, which was visible for many leagues. It was demolished by a storm 
in 1847. Stations, Des Rivieres, St. Alexandre, beyond which the train 
passes the junction of the Stanstead, Shefford, and Chambly Railroad, 
running from St. Johns E. to Waterloo, 43 M. Stages from Waterloo to 
Lake Memphremagog in 20 M. The line now crosses the Richelieu River 
to St. Johns, a quaint, old-fashioned, Norman-French village near the 
head of the Chambly Rapids. The town is situated on a level plain, and 
is connected with the suburb of St. Athanase by a fine bridge over the 
Richelieu. There is good fishing by boat near St. Johns, and the few visi¬ 
tors who stop at this quiet old town usually ride to Chambly, a pleasant 
village near the confluence of the Richelieu and Montreal Rivers. It is 
12 M. N. of St. Johns by the river-road, and is on a lake-like expansion 
of the river, called Chambly Basin. The Richelieu flows toward the N. 
E. almost parallel with the St. Lawrence which it joins at Lake St. Peter, 
70 M. distant. 

Chambly was fortified by the French in 1711, and in 1775 it had a strong stone 
fort built by the British, with massive towers at its angles. Large supplies were 
stored here ; but the commander was so careless that the fort was easily taken by 
the Americans in October, 1775. It was abandoned on the advance of Burgoyne, 
having first been stripped of its stores, and has since served (until the English 
military evacuation of Canada) as an exercising-ground for the Montreal garrison. 
In the crypt of the Catholic Church is buried De Salaberry, Seigneur of Chambly, 
who commanded the Canadians in the battle of Chateaugay (War of 1812), when 
a large invading force of Americans was resisted with such valor and success that 
De Salaberry ever after bore the title of “the Canadian Leonidas.” 12 M. from 
Chambly is Beloeil Mt. 

Other excursions from St. Johns are to Scotch Mt. (6 M. over a good road), which 
commands a fine view of the Green Mts. and the border Townships ; and to the 
Chambly Rapids on the Richelieu. 

The Marquis of Montcalm built a fort at St. Johns, which was strengthened by 
Gov. Carleton. Benedict Arnold’s American fleet was repulsed in an attack in 
1775, but the fort was besieged by Gen. Montgomery in September of the same 
year, and, after<six weeks of blockade and cannonade, it surrendered, with 600 
British regulars and 48 heavy cannon. The American garrison evacuated the post 
on the advance of Gen. Burgoyne. 

At St. Johns the train moves on to the rails of the Grand Trunk Rail¬ 
way (Montreal and Rouse’s Point Division), and passes through the fair 
and fertile plains of the Parish of La Prairie to St. Lambert, opposite 
Montreal. The St. Lawrence River is crossed by the wonderful * Victoria 
Bridge, and the train stops at Montreal (see- Route 54). 


GILMANTON. — WEIRS. 


Route 30. 209 


30. Boston to the Franconia Mts. 

By the Boston & Mxine (S. Div.), and Concord & Montreal Railroads. Parlor 
cars run from Hoston without change. Boston to Plymouth ( 123 M.) in 4 hrs. • 
*° Housw (2^5 M.) in about 7 hrs. The branch line from Wing Hoad 

to Bethlehem runs to the Fabyan House and the base of Mt. Washington. From 
Bethlehem Junction narrow-gauge lines to Bethlehem and the Profile House. 

The train leaves the Lowell station at 9 A. M., and passes to Concord 
by Route 29, through Lowell and Manchester. 

Alter leaving Concord, the line crosses the Merrimac, and passes E. 
Concord , N. Concord , Canterbury (stages to Shaker village, 7 2 M.), North- 
field, and Tilton (Loremn House), the seat of the N. H. Seminary and Fe¬ 
male College. On the hill above is a huge Roman memorial arch, 55 ft. 
high, of granite, erected in 1882-83, to commemorate the 1 ilton family. 

Daily stages run from Tilton through Gaza to New Hampton, 13£ M. N., the 
picturesque location of a Free-Will Baptist school; to Franklin Falls , 3 M. W. ; 
branch railway in 6 M. from Tilton to Balmont whence stages 4 M. to Gilmanton 
( Mountain - View House, JjAU-lG a week). John L. Stoddard says: “Perched on 
the spur of a long range of mts., the situation ot Uu.nantou is unique. I cau look 
off on an unbroken panorama of distant peaks cutting the horizon through a circuit 
of 180 degrees ; or, from Mt. Washington in tile N. to Mt. Monadnoek in the S.” 
Near Tilton was the largest Indian fortress iu New England, lines of intrenchments 
laced with stone, and ouce palisaded. Some remnants remain. 

The line now passes along the shores of Winnepesaukee River, Little 
Bay, and Great Bay. Stations, Union Village and Laconia (Willard 
Hotel), whose factories turn out yearly 1,500,000 yards of fancy cloths, 
275,000 dozen hose, and 400 railroad cars. From this point an inter¬ 
esting excursion may be made to the summit of Mt. Belknap (8^ M. dis¬ 
tant), on the shore of the lake. From this commanding peak the lake 
may be seen throughout nearly its entire extent, and views of the mts. 
beyond and of the pretty village of Wolfboro are obtained. Laconia is 
on the shore of Lake Winnesquam (Great Bay), a picturesque sheet of 
water on the 1. of the line. After leaving Laconia, the line passes along 
Sanbornton Bay to Lake Village (Mt.-Belknap House), which has small 
hosiery-factories, a needle-factory, and the railroad repair-shops. The 
quiet waters of Long Bay are now skirted, on the r. bank, with the 
peaks of Mt. Belknap beyond. Weirs (see p. 216) has a fine view out over 
Lake Winnepesaukee. Steamers leave this point for the villages on the 
lake (see Route 32), and N. Conway may be reached by crossing to Wolf¬ 
boro, and taking the cars on Route 31. Near Weirs, on the N. shore of 
the outlet, is the Endicott Rock, which is about 20 ft. around, and is 
carved with the initials of the chiefs of the colonial survey of 1652, and 
with the words, “John Endicut, Gov.” The train parses N., with the 
lake on the r., to Meredith (Elm House). The great summer-resort at 
Centre Harbor is 5 M. from Meredith, by a good road ; and the pictu¬ 
resque Meredith Neck is near by, on the S. E. 

The train now passes Waukawan Lake, on the r., which is 4 M. long 


210 Route 30. 


PLYMOUTH. 


and 2 M. broad. Wank a wan is a name given to this lake by the 
Indians, and now used by summer visitors, though the rustics who 
live in the vicinity call it Measley Pond. Long Pond is now passed, 
and the train stops at Ashland (Squam Lake House), a small factory- 
village near the confluence of the Squam and Pemigewasset Rivers, and 4 
M. from the lovely Squam Lake (see Route 32). This is in the ancient 
Episcopal town of Holderness, and the road along Squam Lake exhibits 
some of the richest scenery in the country. The Pemigewasset is now 
crossed near Bridgewater station, and its valley is followed to Plymouth 
(* Pemigewasset House, 150 rooms, a lirst-class summer hotel, where the 
midday trains stop 30 minutes for passengers to dine). 

Plymouth, the shire-town of Grafton County, is a beautiful village in the 
midst of attractive scenery, near the confluence of the Pemigewasset and 
Baker’s Rivers. It has a large country trade, and is noted for its manufac¬ 
ture of line buckskin gloves. Walker’s Hill overlooks the village and valley, 
while Mt. Prospect (4 M. N. E.; carriage-road to the summit) commands 
an extensive prospect. On the S. is the valley of the Pemigewasset 
(“ Place of crooked pines ”), with its broad, rich intervales, while numer¬ 
ous well-known peaks extend between Monadnock in the S. W. and 
Moosilauke in the N. W. The N. is idled with the lofty summits of the 
Franconia and the White Mts., prominent among which is Mt. Lafayette. 
Osceola and White Face are in the N. E., and just below the Squam 
Range in the E. is the beautiful, island-dotted Squam Lake. To the S. 
E. are the bright waters of Winnepesaukee, with Mt. Belknap looking 
over them. Mt. Prospect is 2,072 ft. above the sea, and possesses several 
other objects of interest, —the Miser’s Cave, the Avalanche, and the Cold 
and Boiling Springs. 

The drive around Plymouth AIt. is a favorite excursion, and the view 
from its summit is pleasant, embracing many of the features of the view 
from Mt. Prospect, though heavy forests cover most of it. 2 M. N. of 
Plymouth are the Livermore Falls. From Plymouth to Squam Lake it 
is 7 M.; to Newfound Lake, 9 M.; to Centre Harbor, 14 M. 

Capt. Baker, of Newbury, wirh a company of Mass. Rangers, attacked an Indian 
village near the confluence of the river which now bears his name with the Pt nflge- 
wasset River. After killing many of the villagers, the Rangers plundered the place, 
and then retreated, being vainly attacked afterwards on the plains of Bridgewater. 
Plymouth was settled in 1764. The house still stands here (now a library) in which 
Daniel Webster made his first plea before a jury. Nathaniel Hawthorne died in this 
village May 19, 1864. 

1 M. out is the Holderness School for Bovs, a famous Episcopal School, beautifully 
situated, on an estate of 15 acres. About 5 M. from Plymouth (stage from Ashland, 
4 M.) is the Asquam House, a summer-hotel on the crest of the far-viewing 
Shepard Hill, over Squam Lake. 

The Pemigewasset- Valley 11. 7? runs N. from Plymouth to Livermore, 2 M. ; 
Campton. 4i; Campton Village, 7$; Thornton, 9; W Thornton. 13*; Woodstock, 
16A ; and N. \\ oodstock, 2().y Stages for the summer boarding-houses connect at 
the stations; and from the N. terminus run to the Flume and Profile Houses 
This route supplants the favorite old staging route up the valley, famous for its 
noble views. 


MOOSILAUKE MT. 


Route 30. 211 


After leaving Plymouth, the railroad follows the valley of Baker’s 
River for 20 M. Station, Rumney (Stinson House), S. of Stinson’s Mt. 
and Pond, which were named in memory of a hunter who was killed here 
l»y the Indians. The village is nearly 1 M. from the station. Saw-mills, 
tanneries, and charcoal-works abound in the town. Stations, W. Rum¬ 
ney and Wentworth (Union Hotel), a village on fair intervales, and sur¬ 
rounded by high hills. Carr’s Mt. is on the E., and Mt. Cuba on the W. 

Warren (Langdon House) is a glen village, from which a very good 
road leads in 10 M. to the top of Moosilauke Mountain ( Tip-Top House, 
comfortable, $53 a day; fare by stage, up and back, S3). On the slope 
of the mt., 5 M. from Warren, is the Mountain House ($7-10 a week), 
1,681 ft. high, and free from hay-fever. This is one of the noblest trips in 
New England, to the top of Moosilauke. 

Prom its isolated position and great height (4,811 ft.), this peak 
commands a grand and unique *view. In the S. are the hill towns of 
Grafton County, with numerous prominent and well-known peaks rising 
over them. Beyond Owl’s Head, on the W., considerable portions of the 
Green Mts. may be seen on a clear day. In the N. W. is part of the 
Connecticut valley, and one or two Canadian peaks are seen in the 
remote N., while nearer at hand are the Pemigewasset Mts. A noble 
panorama of mts. extends from Sugar Loaf (W. of N.) to the white peak 
of Choeorua (S. of E.), embracing the chief summits of the White and 
Franconia Ranges. On the S. E. is the shining surface of Lake Winne- 
pesaukee, and in the same direction some portion of the State of Maine is 
visible. 

From Peaked Hill, near the village hotel, a good view of Moosilauke is 
obtained. Carr’s Mt., Webster’s Slide, and Owl’s Head are also in War¬ 
ren, while on Hurricane Brook are numerous picturesque cascades, known 
as Fairy, Rocky, Oak, Wolf’s-IIead, Waternomee, and Hurricane Falls. 
Diana’s Wash-Bowl is a sequestered basin on the same creek. 

Station, E. Haverhill, beyond w r hich the line traverses the glen of the 
Oliverian Brook, with Webster’s Slide Mt. on the 1. and the precipitous sides 
of Owl’s Head on the r. Station, Haverhill (Exchange House), a pretty 
village on a hill near the track, with the Grafton County buildings. Just 
across the river is the village of Newbury (see Route 24), -which may be 
seen from the 1. as the train skirts the rich intervales, and passes to N. 
Haverhill, a small village near the Ox Bow Bend of the river. 

At Woodsville (Parker House) the train connects with the Passumpsic 
and Wells-River Railroads; afterwards ascending the Ammonoosuc Valley 
to Bath, a fine old farming village in a picturesque glen. Lisbon ( Brig - 
ham's Hotel) is a gold-mining village, with daily stages to Lyman (4| M./ 
and Sugar Hill (7 M-). See page 2346. 


212 Route 30. 


LANCASTER. 


Littleton ( Thayer's Hotel, $10-18 a week; Oak-Hill House , on far- 
viewing heights, $8-14 a week; Chiswick Inn, .$12-15 a week; and 
many summer boarding-houses near by) is a pretty and prosperous vil¬ 
lage, with 3,000 inhabitants, 6 churches, 2 papers, high-school, bank, 
30-40 stores, 4 large glove-factories, and Ivilburn’s stereoscopic-view es¬ 
tablishment, the largest in the world. It was incorporated in 1764, under 
the name of Chiswick; and borders 15 M. on the Conn. River. The 
village is on the Ammonoosuc. From the hills in the vicinity, fine pano¬ 
ramic views of the White and Franconia Mts. may be obtained. 

Stations, Wing Road, where trains connect for Bethlehem, Profile 
House, Fabvan House, and the base of Mt. Washington; Whitefield 
(Hotel Fiske ), whence branch line to Jefferson; and Dalton, near the 

Connecticut. Stations, S. Lancaster (stage to Lunenburg, 2 M.), and 

Lancaster (* Lancaster House, 120-130 guests, at $2-3.00 a day), 
a beautiful village on a broad plain near the river. It has about 
3,400 inhabitants, 2 weekly papers, and 6 churches. This is a favorite 
summer-resort, “ and in the combined charm, for walks or rides, of 
meadow and river, —the charm, not of wildness, but of cheerful bright¬ 
ness and beneficence, — Lancaster is unrivalled.” (Starr King.) Steb- 
bins' Hill, near the village, commands an extensive view ; while the drive 
around Mt. Prospect (2- 3 hrs.) is much esteemed. The rapids on the 
Connecticut are reached by a fine road over the intervales (6 M.). The 
riverward roads are level and smooth, revealing fine distant views, the 
best of which is obtained from the Lunenburg Hills, beyond the river in 
Vermont. To the E. and N. E. of Lancaster are the dark and unexplored 
Pilot Mts., whose main peak is sometimes ascended by a path leading 
from the hamlet of Lost Nation, yielding a broad view over the upper 
Cobs country and the mountain-walls to the S. and S. E. Israel’s River 
unites with the Connecticut near the village, after flowing down a pictur¬ 
esque valley from its source near Mt. Madison. Sir Charles Dilke says 
that “ the world can show few scenes more winning than Israel’s River 
valley, in the White Mts. of N. H., or N. Conway, in the S. slopes of the 
same chain.” The stream is named for an old hunter who was one of the 
pioneers of the Cobs country, but the melodious Indian name is preferable, 
—Singrawack, “the foaming stream of the white rock.” “ Grand combi¬ 
nations of the river and its meadows with the Franconia Range and the vast 
White Mt. wall are to be had in short drives beyond the river, upon the 
Lunenburg Hills.” A new hotel has recently beea built on the top of 
Mt. Prospect ($21 a week). 7 M. from Lancaster is Jefferson Hill, famous 
for its grand mountain-views. 

Beyond Lancaster the railroad follows the Connecticut River for 10 M. 
and connects with the Grand Trunk Railway (Route 40) at Groveton- The 
most direct route from Boston to Lancaster is bv N. Conway (see next page.) 


ROCHESTER. 


Route 31. 213 


31. Boston to the White Mountains. 

By Boston & Maine R. R. to N. Conway (137 M.) in 5 hrs., fare, $5.00 ; to the 
Crawford House (1(52 M ) in 12 hrs., fare, $8.50 ; to the Glen House (157 M.) in 11 
hrs., fare $7.1)0. This is the quickest and nearest route to the White Mts., and 
runs two Pullman express trains daily in summer. 

The train leaves the Eastern station in Boston (on Causeway, at the foot 
of Friend St.), and passes out over the Charles River. Boston to Conway 
Junction, see Route 37 (the principal stations are Chelsea, Lynn, Salem, 
Ipswich, Newburyport, Hampton, and Portsmouth). Beyond Conway 
Junction the train passes the stations, S. Berwick, Salmon Falls, and 
Great Falls. At the latter village are extensive cotton-factories, employ¬ 
ing 3,000 hands, and consuming 7,700 bales of cotton yearly. Station, 
Rochester ( Dodge's Hotel; Mansion House), a village on Norway Plains, 
with several factories near the falls on the Cocheco River. The town has 
3 banks, 8 churches, and over 7,000 inhabitants. Over 2,000,000 yards 
of flannel are made here yearly, with 400,000 pairs of shoes, 100,000 pairs 
of blankets, and 2,000,000 bricks. Rochester was settled in 1728, and its 
people kept constant vigil for nearly half a century, being often attacked 
by the Indians. John P. Hale, a prominent leader in the antislavery 
movement, and U. S. Senator for 16 years, was born here in 1806. 

The Portland and Rochester Railroad runs from this village across the centre of 
York County to Portland (52 M. ; fare, $1.55). Stations, E. Rochester, E. Leba¬ 
non, and Springvale, a village in Sanford, which was bought of the Sagamore 
Fluellen in 1061. Stages run from Springvale to Sliapleigh 
Station, Alfred ( Central House; Alfred House), a pleasant village on a level 
plain, containing the York County buildings, and named in honor of King Alfred 
of England. The line next crosses the towns of Waterborougli and Hollis, and 
the Saco River. Station, Buxton (Berry’s Hotel), the old Narragansett, No. 1, 
which was named in compliment to Paul Collin, its pastor for 40 years, whose 
ancestors came from Buxton in England. This town w r as one of the 7 granted by 
Mass, to the victorious soldiers of King Philip’s War, and 9 more were granted 
to the veterans of the Canada War of 1095. The soldiers were thus compensated 
for their labors, and at the same time the distressed and war-swept settlements 
on the Maine coast were shielded by a double tier of towns inhabited by hardy 
and fearless veterans. Buxton has 4 villages, with extensive lumber-mills. 

Station, Gorham (Clement House), the 7th town 
granted to the veterans of 1675, and named for Capt. Gorham, whose company 
lost 36 killed and 41 wounded at the Narragansett Fort Fight. Station, Sacarappa, 
a manufacturing village which for 50 years sent vast amounts of lumber to Port¬ 
land and Havana. The Cumberland Mills turn out $1,000,000 worth of paper 
annually. After running across the populous town of Westbrook, the train ap¬ 
proaches Bramhall Hill, and passes into the terminal station at Portland. 

After leaving Rochester, the White-Mt. train passes nayes, and stops 
at Milton ( Glendale House; Tri-Mountain House), a quiet farming 
town near the Salmon-Falls River. Mt. Teneriffe, seen on the 1., is as¬ 
cended from Milton. Station, Union (Union House), beyond which Copple* 
Crown Alt. appears in the AY . 


214 Route 31. 


CONWAY. 


From Wolfboro Junction a branch railroad runs (in 12 M.) to Wolfboro, on 
Lake Winnepesaukee (see Route 32), in the latter part of its course skirting 
Smith’s Pond, and stopping near the wharf of the Lake steamers. 

Stations, Wakefield, E. Wakefield, and X. Wakefield, to the E. of 
which is Lake Newichaw'anuock (East Pond), which is 3 M. long and 1 

M. wide. Stations, Ossipee and Osdpee Centre (two inns), the shire- 
town of Carroll County. A glimpse of Ossipee Lake is gained on the r., 
beyond this station, with Grewi Mt. on its farther shore. Running N. 
with Ossipee Mt. on the 1., the train reaches W. Ossipee, 

from which fine excursions may be made to Ossipee Lake, Sandwich 
Notch, and Mt. Chocorua (see page 220). Madison Plains are next 
traversed, with the broad sheet of Six Mile Pond glittering among the 
forests on the r. and Legion Mt. far beyond. On the 1. is the weird peak 
of Chocorua, to which Starr King has applied the adjectives, “gallant, 
haughty, rugged, torn, proud-peaked, desolate, proud and lonely, tired.” 

Stations, Madison and Conway (Conway House; Pequawket House). 

This village is situated on rich level land, and lias many 
charming rural scenes along the winding Saco. From its air of tran¬ 
quillity and pastoral seclusion, this hamlet of Chatauque is preferred to 

N. Conway by those who seek quiet and rest, and are regardless of bril¬ 
liant society. Excursions are made from this point to * Chocorua Lake, 
8-9 M. distant, under the mt. of the same name; to Conway Centre and 
Fryeburg (see Route 39), in the N. E.; to Chatham, by the long strag¬ 
gling village of Conway Street, between the Green Hills and the Maine 
border; to Champney’s Falls, ascending the Swift River valley to the W.; 
and to the Cathedral, Echo Lake, and Diana’s Bath. The last-named 
places are as near to Chatauque as to N. Conway, and the fording of the 
river is avoided. There are fine view's of the White Mts. from this vil¬ 
lage, with the Moat Mt. looming in the N. W. Beyond Conway the 
train runs N. for 5 M., much of the w r ay being over embankments and 
trestles on the Saco intervales. Moat Mt. is now approached on the 1., 
and Kiarsarge appears on the r. Soon after crossing the Saco, a white 
village is seen on the hillside, the tower of the Kiarsarge House is ap¬ 
proached on the r., and the train stops at N. Conway (see Route 33). 

The chief stage-connections on this route are: Daily from Rochester to Strafford 
Corner (4 M.) and Barnstead (16 M.) ; Union Village to Middleton (3 M.), and 
semi-daily to Milton Mills ( Central House), 5 M., where blankets and felting 
are made; daily from Wolfeboro Junction, 21 M. N W. to 1 rookjield; daily from 
E Wakefield to N. Shapleigh (9 M.), VV. Newfield 5 M. >, and N. Parsonsfield (15 M.) f 
and Effingham (17 M. N.); from Ossipee to Wolfeboro (10 M.), and Tuf- 

tonboro (6 M.); daily from Centre Ossipee to Moultonville (1 M.), Effingham Falls 
(6 M.), and Freedom (8 M.); daily from W. Ossipee to Taimvorth (4 M.), Tamworth 
Iron Works (4 M.), N. Sandwich (10 M.), Sandwich (16 M.), Moultonboro (19 M.), 
and Centre Harbor (24 M.); from Madison, daily, to E. Madison (6 M.) ; from Con¬ 
way, daily, to Eaton Centre (6 M.) and Centre Conway (21 M.). 

The present route (the Eastern Division of the Boston & Maine Railroad) con¬ 
nects near North Conway with the Maine Central Railroad, for the White-Moun¬ 
tain Notch, Fabyan’s. Be*hlehem, the Frofile House, Quebec, and Lake Champlaia . 
(Maquam Bay). See page 230. 


LAKE WINNEPESAUKEE. 


Route 32. 215 


32 Lake Winnepesaukee and the Sandwich Mountains. 

From Boston to the Lake : (a) By Routes 29 and 30, through Lowell and Con¬ 
cord to Weirs, whence the steamer “ Lady of the Lake ” runs to Centre Harbor 
und Wolfboro. Boston to Weirs, 105 M. 

(b) By Route 38, through Lawrence and Dover to Alton Bay, whence the 
steamer ” Mi. \. usmngum” runs to Vvou ooro and Centre Harbor, boston to 
Alton Bay, 90 M 

(c) By Routes 31 and 37, through Salem and Portsmouth to Wolfboro, where 
both the steamers touch, and from which all the lake-villages may be visited. Bos¬ 
ton to Wolfboro, 106 M. (in lirs. by the Pullman express train in the morning). 

Lake Winnepesaukee is in the counties of Carroll and Belknap, in the 
State of N. H., and is 25 M. long by 1-7 M. wide, containing 69 square 
miles. It is 472 ft. above the sea, and its waters of crystalline purity re¬ 
flect the shadows of several bold mountains, and surround nearly 300 
islands, great and small. 8 towns rest around it, having an 

aggregate population of 14,000 on about 200 square miles of territory; 
and but few and small are the villages along the curiously indented shores. 
The waters of the lake are discharged by the Winnepesaukee River, 
which unites with the Pemigewasset to form the Merrimac, and passes 
into the ocean at Newburyport. Winnepesaukee is an ancient Indian 
word which is popularly supposed to mean “ The Smile of the Great 
Spirit,” although some interpret it as “ Pleasant Water in a High Place.” 

“ There may be lakes in Tyrol and Switzerland which, in particular respects, 
exceed the charms of any in the Western world. But in that wedding of the 
land with the water, in which one is perpetually approaching and retreating from 
the other, and each transforms itself into a thousand figures for an endless dance 
o grace and beauty, till a countless multitude of shapes are arranged into perfect 
ease and freedom, of almost musical motion, nothing can be held to surpass, if to 
match, our Winnepesaukee.” (Bartol.) 

“I have been something of a traveller in our own country,—though far less 
than I could wish, —and in Europe have seen all that is most attractive, from 
the Highlands of Scotland to the Golden Horn of Constantinople, from the sum¬ 
mit of the Hartz Mountains to the Fountain of Vaucluse ; but my eye has yet to 
rest on a lovelier scene than that which smiles around you as you sail from Weirs 
Landing to Centre Harbor.” (Edward Everett.) 

“ Looking up to the broken sides of the Ossipee Mts. that are rooted in the 
lake, over which huge shadows loiter ; or back to the twin Belknap hills, which 
appeal to softer sensibilities with their verdured symmetry; or farther down, 
upon the charming succession of mounds that hem the shores near Wolfboro ; or 
northward, where distant Chocorua lifts his bleached head, so tenderly touched 
now with gray and gold, to defy the hottest sunlight, as he has defied for ages 
the lightning and the storm, — does it not seem as though the passage of the 
Psalms is fulfilled before our eyes, — ‘ Out of the perfection of beauty God hath 
shined ’ ? ” (Thomas Starr King). 

The steamer Mt. Washington leaves Centre Harbor at 6 20 a. m. for Alton Bay 
touching at Long Island and'Wolfboro ; leaving Alton Bay at noon, to return. Same 

routes in afternoon. __ . 

The Lady of the Lake leaves Wolfboro at 6 30 a. m. for Centre Harbor and 
Weirs- thence runs direct to Wolfboro and back, leaving Weirs at noon for Centre 
Harbor and Wolfboro, and back to Weiis direct, whence she ruus to Centre Harbor 
and Wolfboro. 

The steamer runs E. from Weirs, with Meredith Bay N., Mt. Belknap 
S. and Ossipee Mt. in front After passing Governor’s island, the boat turns 
to the N. through a strait between Bear Island (3 M. from \\ eirs) and the 


216 Route 32. 


CENTRE HARBOR. 


mainland. Just after passing this island, and when within 3 M. of 
Centre Harbor, the finest * view on the lake is obtained. The whole line 
of the Sandwich Mts. is seen in the N., between Ossipee on the r. and 
Red Hill on the 1., with Whiteface looming foremost, and “ the haughty 
Chocorua ” leagues away to the N. E. 

Weirs ( Hotel Weirs , 150 guests ; Lakeside , 200 guests ; Winnecoette, 3 7 -10 
a week; Endicott; Maple Cottage), where the railroad touches the lake, has 
within ten years become a famous summer rendezvous for temperance men, war- 
veterans, Unitarian grove-meetings, Universalists, Methodists, Graugers, &c., and 
has miles of avenues, cottages, and pavilions and a tall observatory. 

Steamboats run hence several times daily (in the season) to Lake Village, whence 
horse-cars to Laconia. 

Centre Harbor (*Senter House, $ 4 a day, $ 20 - 28 a week ; Moulton House, 
$8-12 a week; and many boarding-houses) is 10 M. from Weirs, and has steam¬ 
boats leaving several times daily for Wolfeboro, Weirs, Alton Bay, Long Island, &c.; 
aud daily stages for Moultouboro, Sandwich, W. Ossipee, and Ossipee Park. 

Centre Harbor is a small hamlet at the head of one of the 3 northern 
bays of the lake. It was settled by Col. Senter in 1757, and was named 
in his honor, but the improvement of the town has been slow, and in 
1890 it had only 479 inhabitants. There are pleasant drives from this 
village to Moultonboro, to Sandwich, and “around the ring,” the latter 
being by a series of roads 4 M. long, passing by Red Hill and within sight 
of Squam Lake, and returning to the village. Centre Harbor Hill, 1 M. 
from the hotels, affords a fine lake prospect, recommended for its sunset 
views. But the main attraction of the place is the * ascent of Red Hill 
(2,000 ft. high). By the highway it is 4 M. to the foot of the hill, from 
which a bridle-path nearly 2 M. long reaches the summit. A road 2 M. 
shorter is available to the pedestrian, by passing out on the Sandwich 
road, taking the first farm-lane to the r. beyond the cemetery and cross¬ 
roads, and crossing straight to Red Hill by means of quiet, rural field- 
roads. The mountain-path soon turns to the r. from the highway (which 
is followed to the 1. after it is gained). The hill is ascended to the first 
cottage, around whose upper corner the path bears sharply to the 1. The 
reddish sienite ledges of the summit are gained by a long climb through 
the forest, and here is seen the luxuriant uva ursce, whose flame-red 
autumnal tints probably gave name to the mountain. The * * view from 
the summit vies in beauty with that from Mount Holyoke, though of far 
different character and devoid of historic charm. Lake Winnepesaukee is 
outstretched in the S. with leagues of bright waters and hundreds of 
islets, while the twin summits of Mt. Belknap are seen over Centre 
Harbor, about 15 M. away. In the S. W. is Mt. Kearsarge, full 30 M. 
distant, while it is claimed that Monadnock (70 M. S. W.) may be seen in a 
clear day. In the W. is the lovely Squam Lake, winding like Winder- 
mere, among the hills, with numerous islands and white, sandy beaches, 
while beyond are the Squam Mts. and Mt. Prospect, near Plymouth. 

“ The Mt. Washington range is not visible, being barred from sight by the dark 























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CENTRE HARBOR. 


Route 32. 217 


Sandwich Range, which in the afternoon, untouched by the light, wears a savage 
frown that contrasts most effectively with the placid beauty of the lake below. 
Here is the place to study its borders, to admire the fleet of islands that ride at an¬ 
chor on its bosom, — from little shallops to grand three-deckers, — and to enjoy the 
exquisite lines by which its bays are infolded, in which its coves retreat, and with 
which its low capes cut the azure water, and hang over it an emerald frimre ” 
(Starr Kino.) ° ' 

“ Far to the south 

Thy slumbering waters floated, one long sheet 
Of burnished gold, — between thv nearer shore* 

Softly embraced, and melting distantly 
Into a yellow haze, embosomed low 
’Mid shadowy hills and misty mountains, all 
Covered with showery light, as with a veil 
Of airy gauze.” — Pjckcival. 

In the N. E. the weird peak of Chocorua is seen, and nearer at hand in the E. 
is the heavy, dark mass of Ossipee. The central peak of the Sandwich Range is 
White Face, Sandwich Dome holds the left, and the right extends from Passa- 
conaway to Chocorua. The white village in the plain below is Sandwich, while 
the Bear Camp and Red Hill Ponds are seen in its vicinity. “ Whoever misses 
the view from Red Hill loses the most fascinating and thoroughly enjoyable view, 
from a moderate mountain-height, that can be gained from any eminence that lies 
near the tourist’s path.” The afternoon is the best time for the excursion. 

* Squam Lake is 3 - 4 M. from Centre Harbor, and should be visited 
for the sake of its sequestered loveliness, its romantic islets, and its white 
strand. The Asquam House is a charming summer-hotel, 4 M. from Ashland. 

Plymouth is 14 M. N. W. of Centre Harbor, and is approached by a 
smooth but hilly road, passing through the romantically beautiful district 
formerly inhabited by the Squainscott Indians. This road skirts the 
shores of Squam and Little Squam Lakes, and at about 5 M. from Centre 
Harbor, has a superb * view of Chocorua, 15 M. away, over the broadest 
part of Squam Lake. The road passes across the broad, rich intervales 
of Holderness and Plymouth, with the Squam Mts. and Mt. Prospect on 
the r. 

On leaving Centre Harbor for Wolf boro, the steamer keeps a S. E. 
course, with Ossipee Mt. on the E. over the low shores of Moultonboro 
Neck. A great archipelago of islands is passed, — islands which shall 
here be nameless, they being worse than nameless in the poverty of their 
homely Saxon titles. About midway of the lake “ the unmistakable 
majesty of Washington is revealed. There he rises, 40 M. away, tower¬ 
ing from a plateau built for his throne, dim green in the distance, except 
the dome that is crowned with winter, and the strange figures that are 
scrawled around his waist in snow.” Fredrika Bremer speaks of “the 
Olympian majesty of Mt. Washington” from this point. “ Farther on, 
the summit of Chocorua is seen moving swiftly over lower ranges, and 
soon the whole mountain sweeps into view, startling you with its ghost¬ 
like pallor and haggard crest.” Or. Long Island, nearly half-way down 
the lake, are the Island Home (GO guests). Long-Island House and Tip- 
Top House, much visited in summer. The Mt. Woshinqti n stops at Long 
Island, on call. The mountains in the N. change their relative positions 


218 Route 32. 


WOLFEBOKO. 


with kaleidoscopic rapidity, and the imposing peaks of Mt. Belknap 
(whence is obtained the linest lake-view) loom up ahead. After passing 
these peaks the steamer rounds into Wolfeboro Bay, with Copple-Crown 
Mt. on the r. 20 M. from Centre Harbor is the village ot V/olfeboro. 

Hotels. — Kingswood Inn, $8 to $12 a week ; Bellevue , $8 to $12 a week ; Lake 
House. There are also many pioasaut and retired boarding-houses iu and near the 

village. , .. 

Steamers leave for Alton Bay, Centre Harbor, and Weirs, several tunes daily. 

Railroad to N. Conway, Portsmouth, and Boston. 

Stages run daily to Tu/lonboro, 6 M. A., and Melvin Village, 

Wolfeboro was settled in 1770, and was the site of the fine mansion of 
Gov. Sir John Wentworth. It is now a pleasant village in a thriving 
town of about 2,200 inhabitants, with 2 banks and 3 churches. Its situ¬ 
ation on two long hills near the lake is very beautiful, and fine views are 
enjoyed of the Belknap Mts. across the water. Good lake-views may be 
had from the hills about the village, and also from Tumble-Down Dick, a 
high eminence near the large Smith’s Pond, E. of Wolf boro. But the 
best excursion is to Copple Crown Mt., about 7 M. S. E., by a road passing 
to S. Wolfboro. The carriage-road runs nearly to the summit (fare, .$ 2.00 
from the hotel for each person of a party). Copple Crown is 2,100 ft. 
high, and furnishes from its summit a view of nearly the whole length of 
the lake, with Mt. Belknap near at hand in the N. W., and the heavy 
range of Sandwich looming above the head of the lake. Chocorua and 
Ossipee are close together, a little W. of N., and on a clear day Mt. 
Washington may be seen beyond all, while the ocean is visible in the 
opposite direction. 30 lakes and ponds are seen from Copple Crown, of 
which Ossipee, in the N., is one of the finest. 

The Wolfboro Branch of the Eastern Railroad runs to the N. Comvay main line 
in 12 M. T\yo express trains leave for Boston daily, making the distance (106 
M.) in 4 hrs. 

After leaving Wolfboro the steamer follows a southerly course to Fort 
Point, where it turns by Little Mark Island into Alton Bay. This is a 
narrow estuary, 4-5 M. long, and bordered by high wooded hills of 
Trosach-like boldness. The steamer follows the sinuosities of this curi¬ 
ous inlet, and sometimes seems to be walled in, as neither way of ingress 
nor egress is seen. Mt. Major is passed on the W. shore, and after many 
turns and bendings the last bluff is passed, and the hotel and station at 
the S. extremity of the lake are reached. Here is situated the Winnipi- 
senyee House, an old and decadent summer-hotel, near good fishing- 
grounds and pretty scenery. 

Alton Bay was formerly called Merry-Meeting Bay, since it was a famous gath¬ 
ering-place for the Indians. Several Indian raids on the N. H. coast passed down 
this bay, and in 1722 the province built a military road to it, and commenced for- 
tiiications. The cost was found to be too heavy for the little colony, and the 
position was given up. Atkinson’s regiment, which was covering the frontiers 
during the French war, built a fort and encamped here through the winter of 
1746-7. 


CENTRE HARBOR TO CONWAY. Route 32. 219 


The hotel is about 30 M. from Centre Harbor. Mt. Major and Pros¬ 
pect Hill are in the vicinity, and command beautiful lake-views, while 
the ocean may be seen (in clear weather) from the top of Prospect. 
Sheep Mt. also gives a broad lake view. 

Among the longer excursions is that to Lougee Pond, near a cluster of 
lakelets from which flows the Suncook River. Gihnanton Iron Works 
village is a little way S. of these ponds, which are about 6 M. from Al¬ 
ton Bay. 6 — 8 M. to the eastward lies Merrymeeting Lake, an irregular, 
picturesque, and sequestered pond 10 M. in circumference, N. of which 
is Copple-Crown Mt. The favorite excursion from Alton Bay is to Mt. 
Belknap, 14 M. N. W. on the shores of, and overlooking, Lake Winne- 
pesaukee. Seats in the carriage which runs to the mt. whenever a party 
is formed cost $1.50 each, and the noble view of lakes and mts. more 
than repays for the time and trouble of the journey. 

Three trains daily (during the season) leave Alton Bay for Boston. 
Distance, 99 M.; time 3£ hrs. (see Route 38.) 


Centre Harbor to W. Gs&ipee. 

A railroad line has been surveyed from Meredith through Centre Har¬ 
bor to W. Ossipee. Daily stages now pass between these last-named 
points. After leaving the Harbor, Red Hill is approached and passed, 
and Moultonboro Corner is reached in 5 M. from the Senter House. 
Moultonboro has a small inn and two or three boarding-houses, and 
abounds in pleasant scenery which is rarely visited. Red Hill is here, 
and Ossipee Mt., also the long and sequestered Moultonboro Bay with its 
great archipelago of picturesque islets, and with plenty of fish in its 
waters. 


The Ossipee Indians had their home near this bay, and many relics of them 
have been found, chief among which is a great monumental mound at the mouth 
of Melvin River. 


“ Where the Great Lake s sunny smiles 
Dimple round its hundred islqs, 

And the mountain's granite ledge 
Cleaves the water like a wedge, 

Ringed about with smooth, gray stones. 
Rest the giant s mighty bones. 


Over lowlands forest-grown 
Over waters islnnd-strown. 

Over silver-sanded beach. 
Leaf-locked hay and misty reach, 
Melvin stream and bnrinl-heap. 
Watch and ward the mountains keep. 


Close beside, in shade and gleam, 
Luughs and ripples Melvin stream, 
Melvin water, mountain-born. 

All fair flowers its banks adorn ; 

All the woodlands voices meet. 
Mingling with its murmurs sweet. 


Who that Titan cromlech fills ? 
Forest-kaiser, lord o' the hills ? 
Knight who on the birchen tree 
Carved his savage heraldry ? 

Priest o the pine wood temples dim, 
Prophet, sage, or wizard grim ? ” 


See Whittier's poem, “ The Grave by the Lake.” 


Ossipee Park is high up on the Ossipee Range, near lovely cascades, and over¬ 
looking Lake Winnepesaukee. Near by is Ml. <> haw , the highest of the Ossipee 
peaks (2,956 ft.), with a tower commanding a noble view. 


4^ M. N. of Moultonboro Corner is the pretty village of Centre Sand¬ 
wich (boarding-houses of Beede, Burleigh, IViggin, and others), 


220 Route 32. 


SANDWICH. 


which is in a narrow valley nearly surrounded by mountains. The scenery 
is noble, embracing Ossipee on the S. E., Red Hill, the Squam Mts. on the 
W., and the dark and storm-worn Sandwich Range on the N. Squam 
Lake is on the S. W. border of the town, and a charming road leads from 
the village to Plymouth, passing for several miles along the N. and W. 
shores of the lake, with the Squam Mts. on the r. Another road (some¬ 
what arduous) leads across a high mountain-pass to Thornton, in the 
Pemigewasset Valley, while a bridle-path leads by Flat-Mt. Pond to 
Waterville. Beyond S. Tamworth the stage passes near Bearcamp Pond, 
and follows the Bearcamp River down to the lowlands of Tamworth and 
Ossipee towns. 

Whittier’s poem, “ Among the Hills,” has its scene laid in this vicinity where 

“ Through Sandwich notch the west-wind sang Above his broad lake Ossipee 

Good morrow to the cotter : Once more the sunshine wearing. 

And once again Chocorua's horn Stooped, tracing on that silver shield 

Of shadow pierced the water. His grim armorial bearing." 

And many arc the weary ones who still come here 

“ To drink the wine of mountain air 
Beside the Bearcamp Water.” 

Whiteface (4,007 ft. high) is the most imposing of the Sandwich Mts., 
and is sometimes ascended from Sandwich, although the excursion is 
arduous and fatiguing. The view is magnificent, embracing 

Winnepesaukee on the S. with the loftier peaks of the White Mts. on the 
N. On the N. E. is Passaeonaway, a noble peak, 4,200 ft. high, which 
was named after the great sagamore of Pennacook, the most powerful 
Indian prince in northern New England, early in the 17th century. He 
governed a large confederacy of tribes from his seat at Pennacook (Con¬ 
cord), and although he strove to annihilate the English by necromantic 
arts, he never put his warriors in arms against them (see page 222). 

Chocorua and Ossipee. 

The road soon passes out to W. Ossipee station, on the Eastern R. R. 
(Route 31). It is 18 M. from Centre Harbor, by' way of Sandwich. Pleas¬ 
ant excursions are made along Bearcamp River and into Sandwich town. 
Ossipee Mt. is close to the station, and the highest peak is but 2-3 M. dis¬ 
tant. A grand view is obtained from this point, while Chocorua looms up 
in the N. and Ossipee Lake is in the S. W. 

The by-road 2 M. beyond the Chocorua-Lake House leads to the Ham¬ 
mond farm, in § M., whence a plain and easy' path leads up for 1.J hr. 
through the woods, and then for 1 hr. over the ledges to the far-viewing 
sharp crest of Mt. Chocorua. 

Ossipee Lake is about 4 M. S. E. The road follows down the Bear¬ 
camp valley' to the vicinity of the lake. In the field near Daniel Smith’s 
farm-house (1. of the road) is an Indian mound, nearly 50 ft. in diairv 
eter, from which several skeletons and other relics have been taken 


MOUNT CHOCORUA. 


Jlcmte S3. 221 


In the same fieltj and nearer the lake are the remains of Lovewell’s fort, 
built in the spring of 1725, and abandoned after the battle at Pequawket 
(Fryeburg). Just beyond this point are the shores of Ossipee Lake, a 
sequestered sheet of water embracing about 10 square miles, with Green 
Mt. rising boldly on the further shore. 

* Mt. Chocorua (3,540 ft. high) is visited from W. Ossipee. It is 8 M. 
to the foot, and 6-7 M. on the way the beautiful Chocorua Lake 
(Lake House, finely situated) is passed. From this point the summits of 
the mountain are seen, of which “ one is a rocky, desolate, craggy-peaked 
substance, crouching in shape not unlike a monstrous walrus (though the 
summit suggests more the half-turned head and beak of an eagle on the 
watch against some danger); the other is the wraith of the proud and 
lonely shape above.” The ascent requires 4 M. from the foot of the 
mountain, and is very arduous, — the path being rugged and steep. 

“ How rich and sonorous that word Chocorua is ! Does not its rhythm suggest 
the wildness and loneliness of the great hills? To our ears it always brings with 
it the sigh of the winds through mountain-pines. It is invested with traditional 
and poetic interest. In form it is massive and symmetrical. The forests of its 
lower slopes are crowned with rock that is sculptured into a peak with lines full 
of haughty energy, in whose gorges huge shadows are entrapped, and whose cliffs 
blaze with morning gold. On one side of its jagged peak a charming lowland 
prospect stretches E. and S. of the Sandwich Range, indented by the emerald 
shores of Winnepesaukee, which lies in queenly beauty upon the soft, far-stretch¬ 
ing landscapes. Pass ai'ound a huge rock to the other side of the steep pyramid, 
and you have turned to another chapter in the book of nature. Nothing but 
mountains running in long parallels, or bending, ridge behind ridge, are visible, 
here brilliant in sunlight, there gloomy with shadow, and all related to the tower¬ 
ing mass of the imperial Washington.There is no summit from which the 

precipices are so sheer, and sweep down with such cycloidal curves. It is so 
related to the plains on one side and the mountain-gorges on the other, that no 
grander watch-tower, except Mt. Washington, can be scaled to study and enjoy 
cloud scenery.” (Starr King.) 

Chocorua, the blameless prophet-chief of the Sokokis Indians, was pursued to this 
lofty peak by a white hunter, who was determined to kill him for the sake of the 
scalp-money (the colonies gave large bounties for Indian scalps). The chief 
pleaded for quarter, speaking of his quiet life in which he had never harmed 
the colonists ; but when his pursuer refused to hear, and drew near to put him to 
death, the noble Chocorua cast one long, lingering look over the fair lands of his 
hunted people, and lifting up his arms invoked a solemn and terrible curse upon 
the country in which the English were swarming. He then leaped boldly over 
the tremendous precipice, and was dashed in pieces on the rocks below. Malig¬ 
nant and fatal diseases among the cattle, and other fell signs long troubled the 
towns about the mountain, while strange legends arose, and the baleful effects 
were for many years attributed to the merited curse of Chocorua. 


33. The White Mountains and North Conway. 

New York to the White Mts. (a) By Route 2-1, through Now Haven, Spring- 
field, and Wells River, to Littleton, Bethlehem, the Profile House, the Fabyan 
House (344 M.), the Crawford House (348 M.), and the base of Mt. Washington 
(350 M.). 

(5.) By steamer to New London, thence by Route 12 to Amherst, Brattleboro, 
and Wells River, — thence to the Mts. as in (a). 

(c.) By New London, Norwich, Worcester, and Nashua (Route 13), to Concord, 
and thence by Route 30. Or by the preceding way as far as Weirs, whence Lake 


222 Route 33. THE WHITE MOUNTAINS AND N. CONWAY. 


Winnepesaukee (Route 32) is crossed to Wolfboro’, and Route 31 is followed tc» 
N. Conway. Many tourists prefer to take the night train or boat to Boston, and 
make their way thence to the White Mts. by a morning train. 

Boston to the White Mts. ( d .) By route 31, through Lynn, Salem, Newburyport, 
and Portsmouth, to N. Conway. By this route the distance from Boston to N. 
Conway is 137 M. ; to the Crawford House, 102 M. ; to the Glen House, 157 M. 

( e.) By Routes 29 and 30, through Lowell, Nashua, Manchester, and Concord, 
to Weirs, Plymouth, and the Fabyan House. Or by crossing Lake Winnepesau¬ 
kee from Weirs to Wolfboro, reach N. Conway by Route 31 (or by the stage-route 
from Centre Harbor). 

( f.) By Route 31 to Wolfboro, thence crossing Lake Winnepesaukee to Weirs, 
and following Route 30 to Plymouth, Littleton, and the Franconia Mts., or to the 
Fabyan and Crawford Houses. 

(q.) By Route 38 to Alton Bay, and thence by steamer to Wolfboro and Route 
31 to N. Conway ; or to Centre Harbor and Route 32 (ad finem ); or to Weirs, and 
thence by Route 30, as in ( f) 

Portland and the East to the White Mts. (h.) By Route 39 to N. Conway (60 M.), 
and thence by rail to the Crawford House (or by stage to the Glen). 

(i.) By Route 40, to the village of Gorham (91 M.): and thence by stage to the 
Glen House and Crawford House. 

Montreal and Quebec to the White Mts. (.;'.) By Route 40 (Grand Trunk Railway) 
to Gorham, 206 M, from Montreal, and 226 M. from Quebec 

By the Canadian Pacific Railway to Newport; the Boston & Maine to Lunenburg; 
and the Maine Central thence to Fabyan's and beyond. 

Albany and Saratoga to the White Mts. (k.) By Routes 53 and 28 to Rutland, 
thence by Route 26 to Bellows Falls, and thence by White River Junction and 
Wells River to Littleton and the Fabyan House. Or via Maquam Bay. 

l’eclestrianism has never obtained much favor in America, but when the 
present post bellum era of prodigality and pretence has passed away, we may hope 
to see these mountain peaks and gorges enlivened by parties of summer ramblers 
who will gain health and strength from inspiring walks in the pure, sweet air. 
The gentry of Old England, with their ladies, are fond of passing thus through the 
Swiss Alps or the Scottish Highlands, and when the people here shall adopt this 
mode of summer travel, the physical culture of New England will reach a higher 
standard. Many admirable pedestrian routes may be made through the White 
Mts., but the tourist should have plenty of time, and be well and lightly equipped 
(see Introduction, IV.) A good field-glass will be found of essential service. 


The White Mts. were called Agiochook (“Mts. of the Snowy Forehead and 
Home of the Great Spirit”) by some of the Indian tribes, and Kan Ran Vugarty 
(“the continued likeness of a gull”) by others. The Algonquins called them 
Wauinbek (White Rock) or Waumbeket-Methna, and the natives had the utmost 
reverence for these mts., believing them to be the home and throne of the Great 
Spirit. But rarely did the Indians ascend the higher peaks, since it was reported 
among the tribes that no intruder upon these sacred heights was ever known to 
return to his people. There was a legend that the Great Spirit once bore a blame¬ 
less chief and his wife in a mighty whirlwind to the summit of Agiochook, while 
the world below was overspread by a flood which destroyed all the people. A 
wilder and more recent tradition is to the effect that the great Passaconaway, the 
wizard-king of the wide-spread Pennacook confederation (who ruled from about 
1620 to 1660). was w r ontto commune with celestial messengers on the summit of 
Agiochook, whence he was finally borne to heaven in a flaming chariot. Some 
authorities claim that a party of Englishmen visited these mts. in 1631 - 2, but the 
latest historians credit their discovery to Dai’by Field, who came up from the 
coast in 1642. The Indian villagers at Pequawket(Fryeburg) earnestly endeavored 
to dissuade him from the ascent, telling him that he would never return alive. 
But he pressed on w r itli his two sea-shore Indians, passing through cloud-banks 
and storms until he reached the last peak, whence he saw “the sea by Saco, the 
gulf of Canada, and the great lake Canada River came out of.” He found many 
crystals here, which he thought were diamonds, and from which the chain long 
bore the name of “ the Chrystall Hills.” Tradition says that in 1765 a party of 9 
of Rogers’ Rangers, retreating from St. Francis, M ere led up Israel’s River into 
these defiles by a treacherous Indian guide, and all of them died except one, who 
reached the settlements with his knapsack filled with human flesh. It was said 


NORTH CONWAY. 


Route 33. 223 


that this party bore the great silver image taken from the church at St. Francis, 
and several of thd early hunters made earnest quest after this sacred relic. A 
short legendary era followed, and then the pioneer colonists began to move into 
the outlying glens. In 1771 the Notch was discovered ; in 1792 Abel Crawford 
lived on the Giant’s Grave ; in 1803 a small tavern was built there ; and in July, 
1820, a party of seven gentlemen slept on the summit of Mt. Washington, and 
gave the names which the principal peaks still bear. In 1819 the first bridle-path 
to the summit was cut, and a small stone hut was erected near that point. The 
Summit House was built in 1852, and the Tip-Top House was completed shortly 
after. In September, 1S55, a small party started one afternoon to walk to the 
summit, and being without a guide became bewildered and lost, and ono young 
lady died at midnight from cold and weariness. In the next August, a Delaware 
gentleman started from the Glen without a guide, in the afternoon, and died near 
the summit from exposure to a cold night storm. Late in October, 1851, a young 
English gentleman ascended alone from Crawford’s to the summit, and fell from a 
great precipice into the Ainmonoosuc Valley, where his mangled corpse was found. 
For some years the summit has been occupied during the winter as a station of 
the meteorological department of the U. S. Army, and the men on duty have ex¬ 
perienced the most intense cold and watched terrific storms. The thermometer 
(Fahrenheit) has descended to 59 below zero, and the winds have attained a ve¬ 
locity of 100 M. an hour. 

“ The geological features of Mt. Washington possess but little interest. The 
rocks in place consist of a coarse variety of mica slate, passing into gneiss, which 
contains a few crystals of black tourmaline and quartz. ” The cone is covered with 
blocks of mica slate. The flora of the upper region is nearly identical with that 
of Labrador and Lapland. “ The period when the White Mts. ceased to be a group 
of islands, or when, by the emergence of the surrounding low land, they first be¬ 
came connected with the continent, is of very modern date, geologically speaking.” 
(Sir Charles Lyell.) Below the broken and distorted stratum of mica slate, the 
vast mass of the mountains is of granite. 

North Conway. 


Hotels. * Kearsarge House, 300 guests, $ 10 - 21 a week, — a fine structure, with a 
broad view from the central tower; * Sunset Pavilion, opposite the Episcopal church, 
$ 7 - 14 a week ; McMillan House, S. of the village ; Eastman House, #7-10 a week ; 
N. Conway House, in the village; Intervale House, about 2 M. N„ near Mt. Kiar- 
sarge. There are over 20 large summer boarding-houses in and around N. Conway, 
most of which are comfortable and quiet. Their prices rauge from #7.00 to # 12.00 

a lYniVmads. — The Eastern Pivish n of the Boston A' Maine Railroad (see 
Route 31) runs two express trains each way daily between Boston and N. Conway, 
in 5 hours. Pistance, 137 M.: fare. #5. The trains are provided with Pullman 
parlor-cars. The Maine Central Railroad runs three trains daily each way (through 
the summer) between Portland and N. Conway. Distance 60 M., time 21-3 hours 
(see Route 39). This line connects at Portland with steamers for Boston, and trains 
run W. from N. Conway to the Crawford and Kabyan Houses and the Counecticut- 

River Valley, traversing the White-Mountain Notch. .... 

Stages from Glen Station every morning and also about mid-afternoon tor the 
Glen House. Public conveyances run frequently (but irregularly) to the points of 

interest in the vicinity. • v. 

Post-Office and telegraph facilities are found in the village : carriages may be 
obtained at various livery-stables; there are several stores where most articles may 
be obtained ; and there are four churches, Bapt., Coug., Moth-, and Epia. 

North Conway is a pretty village, largely composed of hotels and sum¬ 
mer boarding-houses, situated on a natural terrace 30 ft. above the inter¬ 
vales of the Saco River, which is about | M. distant. “On the W., the 
long and noble Moat Mt. guards it; on the E., the rough, less lofty, ami 
bending Rattlesnake Ridge helps to wall it in, - unattractive enough in the 


224 Route 33. 


NORTH CONWAY. 


ordinary daylight, but a great favorite of the setting sun, which delights to 
glorify it with Tyrian drapery. On the S. W., Chocorua manages to ge + 
a peep of its lovely meadows. Almost the whole line of the White Mts. 
proper, crowned in the centre by the dome of Mt. Washington, closes the 
view on the N. W. and N., —only 12 or 15 M. distant by the air. Mt. 
Washington does not seem so much to stand up, as to lie out at ease along 
the North. The leonine grandeur is there, but it is the lion not erect, but 
couchant, a little sleepy, stretching out his paws and enjoying the sun. 

“The distinction of N. Conway is, that it is a large natural poem in 
landscape,—a quotation from Arcadia, or a suburb of Paradise. And 
then the sunsets of N. Conway ! Coleridge asked Mont Blanc if he 
had * a charm to stay the morning star in his steep course.’ It is time for 
some poet to put the question to those bewitching, elm-sprinkled acres 
that border the Saco, by what sorcery they evoke, evening after evening, 
upon the heavens that watch them, such lavish and Italian bloom. Nay, 
it is not Italian, for the basis of its beauty is pure blue, and the skies of 
Italy are not nearly so blue as those of New England. One sees more 
clear sky in eight summer weeks in Conway, probably, than in the com¬ 
pass of an Italian year.” (Starr King.) 

Mount Kiarsarge, or Pequawkct, is 3 M. from the village, and attains 
a height of 3,251 ft. above the sea. A bridle-path (horses $ 2.00 and guides 
$2.00 each) lias been made to the summit (hotel). 

The view from this point embraces the village and the valley of the 
Saco, with the great range of the Moat Mt. beyond, “ its wooded wall 
upreared as if for the walk of some angel sentinel.” In the N. and W. 
is a vast throng of mountains, grouped “ in relation to the two great 
centres, — the notched summit of Lafayette and the noble dome of Wash¬ 
ington.” Lafayette is N. of W., 28-30 M. distant, and is the loftiest of 
the Franconia Mts. The view of Mt. Washington from Kiarsarge is one 
of the best attainable, while in the opposite direction, 100 M. S. W. “ the 
Clmy outline of Monadnock gleams like a sail just fading out upon a vast 
sea.” Sebago Lake, Fryeburg village, and Lovewell’s Pond are seen in 
the S. E. and E. Kiarsarge Village, at the foot of the mt., has summer 
houses, the Ridge, Russell, Orient, Merrill, &c. ($6 to $14 a week). At 
Intervale are the Intervale House, Bellevue, Pendexter, and others. 

The Ledges are 3 M. from the village, beyond the Saco, where Moat Mt, 
terminates in cliffs ranging from 100 to 900 ft. in height, and extending 
nearly 5 M. The river is shallow, and is crossed by a covered bridge, 
near beautiful view-points. A curious formation of white rock (look¬ 
ing like a horse dashing up) which was once visible on the clilfs (parts 
of it are still seen from N. Conway), has caused the name of White Horse 
Ledge to be applied to a part of these cliffs. The Cathedral is a 
singular cavity in the rock (100 ft- above the river and easily reached) 20 














































NORTH CONWAY. 


Route 33. 225 


ft. wide, 40 ft. long, and 60 ft. high, where the ledge bends over in an 
arch above, and several tall trees form the outer wall. “ And truly the 
waters, frosts, and storms that scooped and grooved its curves and niches, 
seem to have combined in frolic mimicry of Gothic art. The whole front 
of the recess is shaded by trees, which kindly stand apart just enough to 
frame off Kiarsarge in lovely symmetry, —so that a more romantic rest¬ 
ing-place for an hour or two in a warm afternoon can hardly be imagined. ’ 
Below the White-Horse is * Echo Lake, a beautiful little loch under the 
shadow of the cliffs, which throw back an echo over its tranquil waters. 
A little way N. of the Cathedral is a fine double fall, above and below 
which are several deep basins in the solid rock, filled with sparkling 
water, one of which is known as Diana’s Bath. 

The Artists’ Falls are in the forest H M. E. of the village, and, though 
insignificant in themselves, are in combination with beautiful group¬ 
ings of rock and woodland scenery. The Artists’ Ledge is some distance 
S. of these falls, and commands noble * view's of the village and valley 
with Mt. Washington looming far above and beyond them. Chocorua is 
seen in the S. E. across the level and luxuriant valley. The White-Mt. 
Mineral Spring is 4 M. S.; and Conway Corner is 1 M. beyond. 

Excursions are made from N. Conway to Thorn Hill, 9 M.; Dundee, 
12 M.; Jockey Cap, and Lovewell’s Pond, in Fryeburg, 11 -13 M.; Mount 
Chocorua, 18 M.: Jackson Falls, 6-9 M.; “Around the Square,” a favorite 
drive near Mt. Kiarsarge, 5 M.; and up the narrow western valley to Swift- 
River Falls, 18 M., with Chocorua on the 1. Champney's Falls are visited 
by this road, and are very beautiful in high water. Good paths lead to 
the tops of Moat Mt., 6J M.; Peaked Mt., 2$ M.; and Middle Mt., 3 M. 

N. Conway to the Glen House and Gorham. 

Soon after leaving the village, the Cathedral Woods and Mr. Bigelow’s 
elegant cottage are quickly passed, and line views are afforded of the up¬ 
per intervales, undisfigured by railway trestles and embankments. Mt. 
Kiarsarge, on the r., appears in constantly changing forms, as the Inter¬ 
vale and Pequawket Houses are passed, and opposite the East Branch House 
is a foot-path by which this “ charming pyramid ” is sometimes ascended. 
After the road crosses the East Branch of the Saco it bends to the W. 
and affords a comprehensive view of the Conway valley. Shortly after 
passing Stilphen’s (under Cedar Mt.) a fine retrospective view of Kiar¬ 
sarge is afforded. Thorn Mt. is now seen on the r. and Iron Mt. on the 
1. (in advance), and the road passes over Goodrich Falls, which may be 
viewed from the rocks on the r. bank, or, better still, from the shore 
below (short but steep path). These falls are on the Ellis River, and have 
been ruined by a mill-dam. As the stage now passes along the Ellis River 
frequent glimpses of the mts. appear, and Jackson City is soon reached. 

10 * 0 


226 Route 33. 


JACKSON. — GLEN HOUSE. 


Jackson.—(*' Thorn-Mt. House and Wentworth Hall , 200 quests, 
$10.50-21 a week; Jackson-Falls House , $9-14; Glen-Ellis Houst, 
$8-15; C. E. Gale, S. W. Gray, J. D. Towle, W. E. Elkins ($6-9). 

Stases run from Glpn. on fhp Central Uailroad, >everal times daily, to 

Jackson (34 M.) and the Glen Mourn (15£ M.). 

The town was settled in 177 0, uud in 1790 came ('apt. Pinkham and five families 
on snow-shoes and sledges. Shortly after, Daniel Pinkham built a rude road 
through the notch which still bears his name, and the little settlement was called 
New Madbury. In 1800 this name was changed to Adams, and in 1820, when 
Adams and Jackson were candidates for the Presidency, and the latter received 
every vote (except one) in the town, it took the name of Jackson. 

Many rare minerals are found here, and tin-mines have been worked on 
one of the hills. This central plaza in the city of hills is much frequented 
in summer by artists, trout-fishers, and lovers of quiet and sequestered 
scenery. The Jackson Falls are close to the village (seen from the bridge 
over Wildcat Brook on the r.), and are very beautiful in high water. Iren 
Mt. is 2,900 ft. high and looms up on the 1., while Tin Mt. is on the r. 
Eagle Mt. on the N. is rounded on the r. after leaving the village. The 
road now ascends through the thickening forest with the Ellis River cn 
the 1., while occasional glimpses of Carter Dome are obtained on the r. 
No houses are seen in this desolate pass, and 7 M. beyond Jackson the 
path to the Glen Ellis Fall is seen on the r. 4-5 M. beyond (with occa¬ 
sional glimpses of Tuckerman’s Ravine and the slopes of Mt. Washing¬ 
ton), the spacious * Glen House is reached. This hotel accommodates 
500 guests ($ 4.50 a day), keeps a band of music through the summer, and 
has a parlor and dining-room, each of which is 100 by 45 ft. in dimensions. 
“ The Glen House is at the very base of the monarch, and Adams, Jeffer¬ 
son, Clay, and Madison bend around towards the E. with no lower hills 
to obstruct the impression of their height.” The Glen is 1,632 ft. above 
the sea, and 820 ft. above Gorham, and is watered by Peabody River and 
surrounded by lofty peaks. On the E. is the long dark ridge of the 
forest-covered Carter Mt., and on the W. is the noble brotherhood of the 
five chief peaks of New England. Mt. Madison (5,365 ft.) is 4 M. N. W. 
in an air-line, and next in the majestic group comes the sharp and sym¬ 
metrical pyramid of Mt. Adams (5,794 ft.). The massive crest of Mt. 
Jefferson (5,714 ft.) comes next, then Mt. Clay (5,553 ft.), and S. E. of 
the hotel the summit of Mt. Washington (6,293 ft.) is seen peering over 
lofty spurs and secondary peaks. “ MAJ. Clay Washington ” is a for¬ 
mula which fixes in the mind the order of these mountains, A better view 
is obtained by ascending for a few hundred feet the mt. behind the hotel. 

Thompson’s Falls are about 2 M. S. W. of the Glen House, and a 
* guide-board on the 1. shows the point where the N. Comvay road is 
quitted, and a forest-path is entered. The falls are ^ M. from the road, 
and the brook may be followed up for a considerable distance, the walk 
atfording grand retrospective views of Mt. Washington and Tuckerman’s 


GORHAM. 


Route 33. 227 


Ravine. Not far from these falls is the quiet and secluded basin called 
the Emerald Pool. 

The * Crystal Cascade is gained by a path leading from the road into 
the forest to ther., about 1 M. beyond Thompson’s Falls. There is about 
\ M. of continuous ascent to the fall, which is near the mouth of Tuck- 
erman’s Ravine, and is best seen from a high and moss-covered ledge 

opposite. 

“ Down it comes, leaping, sliding, tripping, widening its pure tide, and then 
gathering its thin sheet to gush through a narrowing pass in the rocks, — all the 
way thus, from under the sheer walls of Tuckerman’s Ravine, some miles above, 
till it reaches the curve opposite the point on which we stand, and winding 
around it, sweeps down the bending stairway, shattering its substance into ex¬ 
quisite crystal, but sending off enough water to the l ight side of its path to slip 
and trickle over the lovely, dark-green mosses that cling to the gray and purple 
rocks. We never look at the Crystal Cascade without revering and rejoicing over 
the poetry with which nature invests the birth of so common a thing as water.” 

A long and difficult ascent along the brook-bank leads into Tuckerman’s Ravine. 
The Cascade falls about 80 ft. 

The * Glen Ellis Fall is about 4 M. from the Glen House, and is 
gained by a plank-walk turning to the 1. from the N. Conway road into 
the forest. This is the finest fall in the mts., and the Ellis River here 
plunges down 70 ft. in one thick white mass, half sunk in a deep channel 
which it has cut in the cliff. The steep fall of 70 ft. is prefaced by a 
descent of 20 ft. at a sharp angle. From the top of the cliff one sees 
“ the slide and foam of the narrow and concentrated cataract to where it 
splashes into the dark green pool, 100 ft. below.” A better view of this 
“ heart of mt. wildness ” is gained by descending a long series of rude 
steps to the edge of the pool below the fall. “ It is feminine and maid¬ 
enly grace that is illustrated by the Crystal Cascade ; it is masculine 
youth, the spirit of heroic adventure, that is suggested by this stream.” 

The Garnet Pools are 1 M. N. of the Glen House, near the Gorham 
road, and show some curious rock-carving in the bed of the Peabody 
River. About 1^ M. beyond, by crossing the bridge to the 1., the point 
is reached (near a farmhouse) where the singular appearance of a dis¬ 
torted human face is seen on a peak of Imp Mt. Gorham is 8 M. N. E. 
of the Glen House, with which it is connected by semi-daily stages (fare, 
$ 1.50) running down the valley of the Peabody River. It is 15£ M. from 
Glen Station, by daily stages, to the Glen House. 

Gorham. 

ITotels. * Alpine House , a first-class hotel, with livery stable, etc. 

States to the Glen House thrice daily, and once daily to Randolph and Jeffer¬ 
son Ilill. Mountain-wagons run irregularly to the Mt.-Washington Summit House, 
and over the Cherry-Mountain road. 

Railroad. The Grand Trunk Railway runs to Portland (91 M.) in 44-5 hours. 
By taking the train to Northumberland (31 M. N. W.), a connection is made with 
theConcor I and Montreal Railroad, running to Lancaster and Littleton (Route 30) 
At North Stratford, the Grand Trunk crosses the Maine Central line, from Port 
land and the White Mts. to Quebec. 


228 Route 33. 


GORHAM. 


Gorham is a thriving village at the confluence of the Peabody and An¬ 
droscoggin Rivers, on the N. side of the White Mts. and 812 ft. above 
the sea. It has been almost entirely created by the Grand Trunk Rail¬ 
way, which has its repair-shops here. “ For river scenery combined with 
impressive mt. forms, the immediate vicinity of Gorham surpasses all the 
other districts from which the highest peaks are visible.” 

*Mt. Hayes is just N. E. of Gorham, and attains a height of 2,500 ft. 
The Androscoggin is crossed near the hotels by a suspension foot-bridge, 
225 ft. long, remarkable as the work of one man (a hard-working villager), 
who conceived the work and executed it alone. He has also made a path 
to the summit of the mt. (the ascent requires 2 hours). The view is thus 
described : — 

“ The rich upland of Randolph, over which the ridges of Madison and Adams 
heave towards the S., first holds the eye. Next the singular curve in the blue 
Androscoggin around the Lary farm, arching like a bow drawn taut. Down the 
valley Shelburne, Gilead, W. Bethel, and Bethel, were laid into the landscape with 
rich mosaics of grove and grass and ripening grain, — needing a brush dipped in 
molten opal to paint their wavy, tremulous beauty. Directly opposite, seemingly 
only an arrow-shot’s distance, were the russet ravines of Moriah and the shadow- 
cooled stairways of Carter.” Mt. Washington is seen to best advantage from this 
point, — “ Mt. Hayes is the chair set by the Creator at the proper distance and 
angle to appreciate and enjoy his kingly prominence.” 

* Mt. Surprise is a peak of Moriah about 1,200 ft. above Gorham, 
lying S. E. of the village, with a vague path leading through a fine forest 
to its summit (2h M. from the hotels). Horses cannot be obtained, but 
good walkers can make the ascent on foot in two hours. This peak 
sustains the same relation to the Pinkham Notch as Mt. Willard does to 
the Crawford Notch. Looking up the pass, Mt. Carter is seen on the 1., 
and the five presidential peaks on the r., w r ith Madison, “the Apollo of 
the highlands,” boldly advanced. On the N., in strongest contrast, are 
the sweet and fertile lowlands of the Androscoggin, with their peaceful 
farms and pastoral beauty. An almost obliterated old bridle-path leads 
from this crest to the summit of Mt. Moriah, 4,653 ft. above the sea. 
This peak is rarely visited, but is said to command a noble view. 

Randolph Hill is 5 M. W. of the village, and its summit is gained by a 
road (ML-Crescent House, opened 1884). From the road and the hill-top 
are gained the noblest * prospects of the northern slopes, lines, and peaks 
of the Presidential group, especially of Madison and Adams. 

Gilead is 10-12 M. from Gorham, and the drive thither is very 
pleasant, being alongside the river, with ever-changing hill-scenery on 
either hand. The Lead-Mine Bridge is 4^ M. E. of Gorham, near an 
abandoned mine, and is celebrated for its afternoon and sunset view's. 
This point should be visited between 5 and 7 P. M. Madison, Adams, 
and Washington at that hour become “volcano-pictures,” while the nearer 
summits of Moriah, Hayes, and Baldcap form their heavily outlined 
framework. 


JEFFERSON HILL. 


Route 33. 229 


* Berlin Falls are 6 M. N. of Gorham by a pleasant river-road (or by 
the railway). The Androscoggin River here pours the waters of the 
distant Umbagog and Rangeley Lakes in “a clean and powerful tide 
through a narrow granite pass, descending nearly 200 ft. in the course of a 
mile. We do not think that in New England there is any passage of river 
passion that will compare with the Berlin Falls. How madly it hurls 
the deep transparent amber down the pass and over the boulders, — flying 
and roaring like a drove of young lions, crowding each other in furious 
rush after prey in sight.” The best view is from the rocks near the stream 
below the falls, while the cataract is seen in mid-career from a bridge over 
the gorge. 


From Gorham to the Notch, 

by way of the Waumbek House, is 32-34 M., and the road is richer in 
scenery than any other in the mts. No stages run on this route, but 
wagons and drivers can be obtained at Gorham. The vast and uncon¬ 
cealed ranges of the five great mts. are seen for mile after mile in their 
most imposing forms. “ First Madison and Adams come into view, and 
we drive directly by their base and under their summits in passing over 
Randolph Hill. ” Beyond the deep ravine in the side of Adams the castel¬ 
lated peak of Jefferson is seen, and soon after Mts. Pleasant, Franklin, 
and Monroe come into view. From Martin’s, 13 M. from Gorham, Mt. 
Clay is visible, and just beyond is the majestic head of Washington. 
Near a little school-house in this vicinity, George L. Brown painted 
his masterpiece, “ The Crown of New England,” now owned by the 
Prince of Wales. 16-18 M. from Gorham is Jefferson Hill, “ the ultima 
thult of grandeur in an artist’s pilgrimage among the N. H. Mts., for at 
no other point can be seen the White Mts. in such array and force.” The 
Maine Central Railroad, from Portland and N. Conway, has a station within 
1J M. of Jefferson Hill. “For grandeur and for opportunities of study¬ 
ing the wildness and majesty of the sovereign range, the Cherrv-Moun- 
tain route is without a rival in New Hampshire,” said Thomas Starr King, 
the gifted Unitarian divine, who wrote the admirable descriptive book called 
“The White Hills.” Jefferson Hill has become a favorite summer-resort, 
the chief hotels being the Waumbek, the I’laisted House (100 guests; 
S 8 - 12 a week), the Jefferson Hill and the Starr-King (70 guests each ; 
$ 8-12 a week). It is 1^ M. from the nearest railroad, 8 M. from Lancas¬ 
ter ; 6 M. from the far-viewing Bray Hill ; 5 M. from-the Mt.-Adams 
House; 12 M. from the Fabyan House ; and 17 M/from Gorham. The 
favorite excursions are the ascent of Mt. Starr King (path 24 M. long), to 
Stag Hollow, Bray Hill, and the Valley Road. The view from Jefferson 
Hill is probably the grandest from any of the mountain-hamlets. 

The road to the Notch (16 M. distant) runs S. from the Waumbek 


230 Route 33. 


UPPER BARTLETT. 


House, and “ for 5 M. from this point over the Jefferson meadows, in 
travelling towards the Notch, we ride in full view of every summit of the 
chain, seeing Washington in the centre dominant over all.” The passage 
of Cherry Mt. is effected by a rough and tedious road, and the White Mt. 
House is reached, after which the great Fahyan House is passed, the 
Ammonoosuc River is crossed, and the carriage reaches the Crawford 
House. 

There is a shorter road than this, between Gorham and the Notch, and 
travellers who wish to go by Jefferson Hill should have the fact under' 
stood. This route can be taken from the Glen House, without going to 
Gorham, by turning to the 1. from the Gorham road about M. N. of 
the Glen House, passing around the base of Madison, and entering the 
Cherry Mt. road near Randolph Hill. 

N. Conway to the Notch. 

The route is the same as that to the Glen House as far as Bartlett 
Corner, where the M. C. R.R. diverges to the W., and crosses in succes¬ 
sion the Ellis River, the Rocky Branch, and the Saco River. The latter 
stream is followed up to its birthplace, leading, at first, through a glen 
between the Moat Mt. on the 1. and Stanton Mt. on the r. After cross¬ 
ing the Rocky Branch, the White Ledge is rounded on the r. at the E. 
end of Stanton Mt. Mt. Carrigain looms up far ahead with its triple peaks 
(the highest of which rises 4,800 ft.), and the road passes over narrow 
intervales, with a fine retrospect of Kiarsarge. The Chapel of the Hills 
(a neat little church dedicated in 1854) is passed on the 1., and then the 
Bartlett House , where passengers by the morning stages took 
dinner. This rude glen was settled in 1777, and in 1790 was named in 
honor of Josiah Bartlett, a signer of the Declaration of Independence, and 
at that time President of N. H. The Maine Central Rail¬ 

road has a station here, and large lumber-mills are in the vicinity. 
Mt. Carrigain is usually attacked from this point, by way of the 
Sawyer’s-River glen ; and the other favorite excursions are the ascents 
of Mts. Langdon and Tremont. Many trout are found in the adjacent 
brooks. 

A solitary hunter named Nash, while chasing a moose on Cherry Mt., saw the 
Notch opening through the mts., and entered and explored it. He conceived that 
a road could be made through this pass to connect the upper Cobs country with 
the coast, with which its communication was then made by a long detour around 
the mts. He reported his discovery to Gov. Wentworth (in 1773), who told him 
that if he would get a lforse through the pass, he would give him a large grant of 
land. Nash then secured the aid of another hunter named Sawyer, and they 
hauled a horse through, lowering him over clitfs and driving him through the 
river, until they emerged here. Then Sawyer drained the rum from his bottle, 
and broke it against the ledge, which he named Sawyer’s Rock. A road was 
built “with the neat proceeds of a confiscated estate,” and the lirst article of 
Loos produce sent down through the Notch was a barrel of tobacco, while the 
first merchandise sent up from the coast was a barrel of rum. 


THE NOTCH. 


Route 33. 231 


Rounding Hart's Ledge the road now turns to the N. and crosses 
Sawyer’s River, up whose valley a branch railroad runs to Livermore , 
near the foot of Mt. Carrigain. Soon after, Nancy's Brook is crossed by a 
bridge thrown over a remarkable ravine 200 ft. long, 20 ft. wide, and 35 
ft. deep. This pretty brook rises in a lonely mountain tarn about 2.^ M. 
from the road, and is named for a luckless maiden who walked one cold 
afternoon or night from Lancaster to this point in pursuit of a faithless lover. 
Wet, chilled, and deathly weary, she sat down by a tree near this brook, 
and was there found frozen to death. Just beyond this place, on the 1., 
is seen the grave of Abel Crawford, “ the patriarch of the mountains,” a 
pioneer and mountain-guide of many years ago. After passing the Mt. 
Crawford House, Mts. Crawford and Resolution and the Giant’s Stairs 
are seen on the r., the latter towering in broken masses to the height of 
5,500 ft. The forest now closes in on the road, which crosses the Saco 
near the foot of the Giant’s Stairs, and recrosses it about a mile beyond, 
with a fine view up the long, deep gorge to the r. Turning now to the 
N. W. the road enters the Notch, with the vast mass of Mt. Webster on 
the r., towering to a height of 4,000 ft., and Willey Mt. on the 1. Passing 
over the tree-grown fragments of the mt. which have fallen in long-past 
avalanches, the Willey House is reached. 

The great amount of travel through the Notch in winter, caused by the Coos 
farmers carrying their produce to the eastern towns, rendered a hotel here very 
desirable. So this house was built about 1820 (Spaulding says in 1793), and was 
occupied in 1825 by Mr. Willey. In August, 1820, after a long drought the mts. were 
assailed by a furious stonn, which caused the river to rise rapidly, and during the 
night an enormous mass of earth, rocks, and trees slid from Mt. Willey into the 
valley. This avalanche was split by a sharp ledge back of the house, and flowed 
on both sides without harming it. But the family had left the house (probably 
fearing the swelling torrent of the Saco), and, being somewhere in the track of the 
slide, every person was killed. Mr. and Mrs. Willey and their 5 children, with 2 
hired men, died on that fatal night, and 6 of the bodies were found, sadly muti¬ 
lated. The house has been occupied since 1827, and is shown to visitors for a 
small fee. During storms rocks are sometimes seen plunging down from the 
opposite cliffs of Mt. Webster. In 174G, when a party of Hangers were marching 
through a valley near the more southerly of the White Mts. they were alarmed by 
sounds like volleys of musketry among the defiles. Skirmishing parties of scouts 
were sent in, who discovered that the noise was caused by falling rocks. 

After leaving the Willey House, the road ascends slowly for 3 M., 
passes through the narrow Gate of the Notch, and stops at the * Crawford 
House. This is a large and elegant summer hotel, with accommodations 
for 350 guests, at $ 4.50 a day. It is situated on a plateau 1,920 ft. above 
the sea, and faces the Notch. Near the house are two springs within 
stone’s-throw of each other, the waters of one of which pass to the sea by 
the Connecticut River, while the other empties into the Saco, and reaches 
the ocean on the coast of Maine. There is a pretty lakelet near the Gate 
of the Notch, whence flows the young Saco River. 

Mt. Willard is easily ascended from this point by a carriage-road 2 M. 
long, and the walk upward through this forest avenue is full of pleasure. 


232 Route 33. 


CRAWFORD HOUSE. 


The ** view down the Notch is wonderful, embracing two Titanic mt. 
walls, beginning with Webster on the 1. and Willey on the r., and running 
S. for leagues, with haughty Chocorua, 18-20 M. away, closing the vista. 
The highway down this wild pass is marked by a slender line through the 
forest, and the Willey House is a mere dot on its ruin-swept lowlands. 
Bayard Taylor says of this view, “ As a simple picture of a mountain- 
pass, seen from above, it cannot be surpassed in all Switzerland.” Look¬ 
ing off to the N. E., the great peaks of the Mt. Washington group are 
seen, with Clinton first and nearest, and Jackson on the upper end of Mt. 
Webster. “ And let us again advise visitors to ascend Mt. Willard, if 
possible, late in the afternoon. They will then see one long wall of the 
Notch in shadow, and can watch it move slowly up the curves of the 
opposite side, displacing the yellow splendor, while the dim green dome 
of Washington is gilded by the sinking sun * with heavenly alchemy. ’ ” 
(Starr King. ) 

The * Flume Cascade is f M. from the Crawford House, on the 1. of 
the Notch road, and is about 250 ft. in aggregate height. It derives its 
name from a singular trench through which the stream flows near the 
bridge. The * Silver Cascade is about ^ M. beyond the Flume, on the 
1. of the Notch road, and is one of the most beautiful falls in the moun¬ 
tains, especially after heavy rains. It descends 1,000 ft. ini M. of its 
course, the portion seen from the road being 300 ft. high. Mt. Web¬ 
ster has been ascended by ascending the course of this plunging tor¬ 
rent. The Hitchcock Flume is a singular chasm, which is reached by a 
path from the Mt.-Willard road. 

The splendid * Ripley Falls are 6 - 7 M. from the hotel, and are gained 
by following up Avalanche Brook (the second which the road crosses S. 
of the Willey House). About 2 M. from the road, in a granite-walled 
ravine, the brook falls 25 - 30 ft. in 4 leaps, and then forms a cascade 108 
ft. long, slipping over inclined ledges of granite into a deep pool below. 
About 1 M. higher is the Sparkling Cascade. These falls were discovered 
in 1858. 

Gibbs's Falls are near the hotel, and are found by following up the 
Mt.-Washington bridle-path, and then the brook to which it leads. 
10 -15 minutes’ walk up stream brings one to a pretty fall of about 30 
ft., with pleasing forest accessories. 

Beecher's Falls are on the slope of Mt. Field, to the r. of the hotel, 
and are gained by a good forest-path. The Falls extend for a long dis¬ 
tance up the brook, and from the uppermost of them a fine view of Mt. 
Washington is disclosed. The Devil's Den is a dark cavern seen from the 
Notch road, near the summit of Mt. Willard. Pulpit Rock is on the r. 
of the road, near the Gate of the Notch, and several rock-profiles have 
been seen on the adjacent cliffs. 


FABYAN HOUSE. 


Route. 33. 233 


The * Arethusa Falls are on Bemis Brook, which is 2 M. N. of Bemis 
Station, and 6^ M. S. of the Crawford House, and are 1 M. from the rail¬ 
road. The brook makes a magnificent white plunge of 176 ft., over black 
cliffs, and amid ancient forest scenery. 

The R. R. runs N. from the Crawford House to the Fabyan House, con¬ 

necting there with the railroad routes to the summit of Mt. Washington, the 
Twin-Mountain House, Bethlehem, and Littleton. 

Trains also run several times daily through the Notch to N. Conway 
(24 M. ; 11 - lj hrs.), one of the grandest railroad routes in America. 


The * Fabyan House is 4 M. N. of the Notch, and accommodates 
50fi guests. It was budt in 1872, and is 4 stories high, with a frontage 
of 320 ft. This structure stands on the site of the Giant’s Grave, a tall 
mound near the Ammonoosuc River. According to tradition, an Indian 
once stood here at night, and swinging a torch lit from a lightning- 
struck tree, cried, “ No pale-face shall take deep root here ; this the 
Great Spirit whispered in my ear.” A tavern w r as opened here about 
1803, and in 1819 it was burnt, while the same fate befell another erected 
on its site, and Fabyan’s large hotel, at the foot of the mound, was also 
burnt. The new hotel is larger, stronger, and better ] rotected than its 
predecessors, and will probably remain. Ethan Allen Crawford, “ Ethan 
of the Hills,” a gigantic hunter and guide, lived on the Giant’s Grave 
many years ago, and waged war on the wolves, wild-cats, bears, sables, 
and otters that dwelt among the surrounding hills and brooks. 

The view from this point is very fine, and embraces all the presidential 
peaks save one, the summit of Mt. Washington being M. distant in an 
air-line. The other summits stretch toward the hotel in a long and rugged 
chain. From this point the ascent of Mt. Washington by rail is easily 
made. The Upper Ammonoosuc Falls are 3-4 M. from the hotel, by the 
road to Marshfield, and exhibit a beautiful scene, where white waters 
dash down between gray granite walls, and the vast mts. tower beyond. 

The rates at the Fabyan are $4.50 a day. In the vicinity is the Mt.-Pleasant 
Hou>e (#3.50 a day), and the antiquated White-Mountain House. The Maine Cen¬ 
tral Baiiroad crosses the Concord & Montreal Railroad in front of the Fabyan. The 
former runs to the Crawford House, North Conway, and Portland. The latter runs 
to the bse of Mt. Washington (6 M), and to the Twin-Mountain House, Bethle¬ 
hem, aud Littleton. 


TIi** Maine Central Railroad has recently been extended from Fabyan’s 
to Z aland Junction (connecting witd the Zealand-Valley and the- Profile-House and 
Bethlehem railroads) and the Twin-Mountain House, whe e it leaves the Ammo¬ 
noosuc Valley, and swings around Cherry Mountain. At Hazen’s it connects with 
the Whitefield & Jefferson line. Beyond its station at Whitetield, it intersects the 
Concord & Montreal line, at Scott’s Junction, and then crosses the Connecticut 
River to Lunenburg. Vt. Here it connects with the St.-Johnsbury & Lake Cham¬ 
plain Railroad, for Maquam Bay, intersecting the route to Lake Memphremagog at 
St. Johnsbury. 

The new extension of the Maine Central line, opened in 1891, leaves the White 
Mountain Division at Quebec Junction, near Ilazen's, and runs through Jefferson 
and Lancaster to North Stratford, connecting at the latter point with the Grand 




234 Route, 33. 


BETHLEHEM 


Trunk Railway and the Upper Cods Railroad. The latter at Cookshire Junction 
crosses the Canadian Pacific Railway, from Vancouver and Montreal to Lake Me- 
gantic and St. John, N. B. ; and at Dudswell Junction meets the Quebec Central 
line. Through trains between Quebec and the White Mts. follow this route, which 
passes within Ji M. of Jefferson Hill. 

The * Twin-Mountain House, 5 M. from the Fabyan House, looks across 
the valley to Mt. Hale and the North Twin Mt. 300 guests can be ac¬ 
commodated, at S4.50 a day: and the locality is famous as affording ex¬ 
emption from the attacks of hay-fever. The hotel is near the railroad- 
station; and is 13 M. from Jefferson Hill, 8 M. from Whitefield, and 5 M. 
from the Fabyan House. The Twin Mts. are rarely ascended, and then 
only with great difficulty. A new path was made in 1883. 

Bethlehem. 

Hotels and Boarding-Houses.—The * Sinclair House (Durgin & Co.), at 
the intersection of the roads to the White and Franconia Mts., is a large and finely 
appointed hotel, accommodating 350 guests (§3 a day; $15-25 a week). The 
Bellevue (60 guests) is on the plateau, with broad views towards Littleton and 
Lancaster and the White-Mountain range ($7-10 a week). The Mount-Ay as siz 
House is on the Franconia road, near the Sinclair, and enjoys fine distant views 
($8-14 a week). The Strawberry-Hill House, Avenue House, Hillside, 
Bethlehem House, Centennial, Turner , Mt-Washington, Sunset, Howard, Alpine, 
Ranlett’s, Blanden’s, and Gilmore’s, are 

also in or near the village. Their rates are $ 7 -10 a week, or $ 2 a day for transient 
visitors. The Prospect House (G. W. Phillips : $7-10 a week) is ou the lowlands, 
£ M. N. of the street, and looks out on the White Mts. There are also several 
smaller boarding-houses, where from 8 to 20 guests may be accommodated, at vary¬ 
ing rates, depending mainly on the location of rooms and the number of occupants. 

Distances. — Bethlehem to the summit of Mt. Washington, 22 M.; Crawford 
House, 17; N Conway, 42; Bethlehem station, 3; Littleton, 5; Whitefield, 8; 
Lancaster, 16; Jefferson Hill, 15; Gorham, 32; Profile House, 10; Plymouth (by 
stage), 39 ; Cruft’s Ledge, 2 ; Wallace Hill, 3); Kimball Hill, 5 ; Sugar Hill, 7J. 

Boutes. — The usual way for passengers from the S. is by the Concord and 
Montreal R. R. and its Mt-Washington Branch, to Bethlehem Junction, where 
the narrow-gauge line is taken for Maplewood and Bethlehem. The morning trains 
from Boston, Springfield, etc., reach this point after mid-afternoon. Passengers 
from N. Conway to Bethlehem station go through ou the Maine Central R R., by 
the Notch and the Crawford and Fabyau Houses. 

Of late years the hamlet of Bethlehem has become the summer-capital 
of the White Mts., and is annually visited by thousands of tourists. It 
has a capital summer newspaper, The While-Mountain Echo; Cong., 
Epis., and Meth. churches; an efficient system of water-works; several 
interesting summer-shops; a library; and other conveniences. 

The town of Bethlehem contains 1,300 inhabitants, who are settled in 
three neighborhoods, the Street (or Heights), the Bridge, and the Hollow. 


FRANCONIA. 


Route S3. 234 Cl 


Along the course of the Ammonoosuc there are large lumber-mills, and 
the farms produce good crops of grain, potatoes, and hay. The village of 
Bethlehem Street is on a high plateau, 1,450 ft. above the sea, and 263 ft. 
above the adjacent Ammonoosuc Valley. The Street is composed of a 
church, several shops, and a large cluster of boarding-houses and hotels, 
built on the N. side of an elevated ridge which rises higher on the S. and 
hides the Franconia Mts. It looks out to the N. and W. for many leagues, 
viewing the mountains of Lancaster, the Percy Peaks, the Pilot Mts., and 
the great Presidential Range, whose majestic summits are finely seen. 
The view of the White Mts. is broader and in some respects more impos¬ 
ing than that from N. Conway; though the beautiful environs of the latter 
village give it an advantage. The superior altitude of this ridge and its 
exposure to the N. renders it a very cool place during the summer, even 
when the other mountain-resorts are visited by intense heats. For the same 
reason people who are afflicted with hay-fever or rose-cold find immunity 
from their attacks in this high pure air. 


MaMetvocd. 

* The Maplewood, 400 guests, 14 a day, # 17 50 -25 a week; Maplewood. 
Cottage , # 0 - 14 a week. Narrow-gauge railway-station near the hotels. 

This great cluster of summer-hotels and cottages was founded by Mr. 
Isaac T. Cruft of Boston, at the eastern end of the high uplifted terrace 
of Bethlehem, 1£ M. from Bethlehem Street, and the same distance from 
Bethlehem Junction. It commands a magnificent view of Mt. Washing¬ 
ton and the adjacent peaks, as well as of the great valley opening away 
toward Canada. The hotels are the most sumptuous of their kind, and 
attract every summer large companies of boarders. Cruft’s Ledge, the 
observatory, and other view-points are much visited. 

Franconia. 

* Forest-Hills Hotel , $ 12.50-20 a week, a nobly situated and very com¬ 

modious new summer-house on Pine Ilill, for 150 guests; Lafayette House , 
60 guests; and several boarding-houses. This 

long-drawn village, with its ancient and abandoned iron-works, is at the 
bottom of the glen under Mt. Lafayette, 4 M. from the Flume House, 5 M. 
from Bethlehem, and 5 M. from Littleton (stages). It is in the most pic¬ 
turesque location, with dainty bits of meadow, broad forests, and unri¬ 
valled mountain-views, and yearly attracts thousands of summer-guests. 
It is on the main highway from the Profile House to Bethlehem and 
Littleton. 


234 b Route 33. MOUNT WASHINGTON. 


Sugar Hill. 

Hotels. — Goodnow House, 200 guests, $ 12 -15 a week ; Sunset-Hill House , 
200 guests, ® 12 -15 a week ; Phillips House, 75 guests, $ 7 -10 ; Elm Cottage, Fail 
View , Echo Farm, Mapleside, Cedar Cottage, 25 guests each, $7 a week each. 

Distances. — Lisbou, 7 M. , Bethlehem, 7£; Profile House, 8; Flume, A3; 
Franconia (to Goodnow), 1; Littleton, 8. 

Stages from Lisbou to the Sunset-Ilill House; and from Littleton to the Good- 
now House 

The high ridge of Sugar Hill commands perhaps the most complete 
view in the White-Mt. region, including both the Presidential and Fran¬ 
conia Ranges. It towers over the deep glen in which nestles Franconia 
village, and is happily exposed to cool breezes. There are many pleasant 
rambles and drives in the vicinity; and within a few years Sugar Hill 
has become one of the foremost of the White-Mt. summer-resorts. The 
Goodnow House and Phillips House are 1 M. from Franconia Iron Works; 
and 1| M. beyond, on the crest of the long ridge, is the Sunset-Hiil House, 
c anmanding very impressive views of the White and Franconia ranges, 
on the E., and the long line of the Green Mts. (of Vermont) on the VV. 
Sugar Hill is exempt from hay-fever, being more than 1,500 ft. above the 
sea. There are many beautiful drives and rambles in this region. 

The Lo<k-Off House is a large new hotel, built in 1887, S. of tho 
Sunset-Hill House, with vast and magnificent mountain-views. 


Mount Washington. 

Travellers who design to ascend this mt. should be careful to carry sufficient 
warm clothing (shawls, overcoats, &c.), for the air on the summit is often ex¬ 
tremely cold, even in August. Daniel Webster said here. “ Mt. Washington, I 
have come a long distance, have toiled hard to arrive at your summit, and now 
you seem to give me a cold reception.” There are many who will echo these 
words. If the ascent from the Crawford House or from Randolph Hill is under¬ 
taken, a reliable guide must be secured, and an early start should be made. The 
view from the summit cannot be confidently counted upon, since the mt. is often 
enveloped in suddenly rising fogs, and the days when the remote points of view 
are visible are very few. A powerful field-glass will be found of material assist¬ 
ance. 

Hotel. The Mt.-Washington Summit House accommodates 150-200 guests, 
charging $1.50 for each meal $5a day, $25 a week. It is a strong tlirec-story 
building, heated by steam, and with telegraph and post offices. 

The Railway. The lower station is 1,500 ft. below- the old Ammonoosuc or 
Marshfield station, or 3 1-10 M. from the summit. At the same point is the ter¬ 
minus of the Mt.-Washington Branch R. R., from the Fabyan House and all 
points beyond Morning and afternoon trains on this line connect here with the 
mountain-trains. The fare for the ascent or descent of Mt. Washington is 83; 
for the ascent and return, on the same train, $4. 

There are two trains daily each way during the season, with occasional 
extras. Over 7,000 persons ascend by this route yearly. The engine stops to 
take water four times. The road and stock cost over 8150,000. 


MOUNT WASHINGTON. 


Route 33. 235 


This railway was built in 1866-9, on the plans of Sylvester Marsh, 
and a similar road has since been made up Mount Rhigi, by the Lake of 
Lucerne. Ammonoosuc Station is 2,668 ft. above the sea, and the track 
ascends 3,625 ft. in 3 M., with an average grade of 1 ft. in 4^, and a 
maximum grade of 1 ft. in 2g, or 1,980 ft. to the M. The chief peculiarity 
of the track is a heavy notched iron centre-rail, into which plays a centre 
cog-wheel on the locomotive. The steam-power is not used during the 
descent, but the powerful atmospheric brakes regulate the speed of the 
train. The cars are very comfortable, and the ascent is made in 90 
minutes, during winch time it is pleasant to think that, though these 
trains have been running for 7 years, not a single passenger has been 
injured. As the train slowly ascends over the trestles, pushed by the 
grotesque little engine, the retrospect becomes more and more beautiful, 
and a profound and gloomy chasm is passed on the r. The ridge between 
Clay and Washington is now neared, and an immense mt. amphitheatre 
is passed on the 1., soon after which the train crawls up Jacob’s Ladder, 
and stops at the new station and hotel on the summit of Mt. Washington. 

Tlie Ascent from tlie Glen House. Mountain carriages leave the Glen 
House morning and afternoon for the summit, which is 8 M. distant. The fare is 
#3 ($5 up and down), and tlie time of ascent 3 hrs., while the descent is made in 
1£ hrs. The road (built 18o5-t51) is a noble piece of engineering, winding on gal¬ 
leries and long curves, with au average grade of 12 ft. in 100. 

Most of the route to the Ledge (4 M. up) is enclosed by forests, but 
beyond this point the road passes along the verge of the profound hollow 
tailed the Great Gulf. From this point the * view is superb, embracing 
the Peabody Glen, with the hotel lying like a snow-flake at the base of 
the heavy green mass of Carter Mt. “ Yet the glory of the view is, after 
all, the four highest companion mts. of the range, Clay, Jefferson, Adams, 
and Madison, that show themselves in a bending line beyond the tremen¬ 
dous gorge, and are visible from their roots to their summits.” With one 
exception “ there is no such view to be had, east of the Mississippi, of 
mountain architecture and sublimity.” The road now passes along the 
verge of the Great Gulf, with the lofty gray peaks on the r., winds and 
twists over dreary slopes covered with the skeletons of dead trees and 
the flora of Labrador, surmounts shoulder after shoulder of the storm- 
eaten mt., climbs the sharp, steep, supreme cone, and then the panting 
horses stop “ on the main-top of New England.’ 

The Ascent from the Crawford House. (To Mt. Clinton, 3 M. ; Mt. 
Pleasant, 4f ; Mt. Franklin, 5^ ; Mt. Monroe, 6f ; Mt-Washington Sum¬ 
mit House, 8£.) This route is peculiarly attractive, since it passes over 
several noble summits, revealing immense views. The path is well-worn, 
and is perfectly safe, except in cloudy or misty weather. 

Upon leaving the hotel the ascent of Mt. Clinton is commenced, and 
after passing over a rude forest-path for nearly 3 M. the mossy summit is 


23G Route 33. 


MOUNT WASHINGTON. 


reached (4,320 ft. above the sea). A great expanse of blue peaks is seen 
from this point, with bright lakes on the S. E., and Kiarsarge, “the 
queenly mt.,” lifting its pyramidal cone in the same direction. The path 
winds along the crest-line of a high, bare, and ledgy ridge, and then 
passes around the S. side of the dome-like peak of Mt. Pleasant. A 
path diverges to the summit (4,764 ft. high), whence the old and disused 
Fabvan trail leads down to the Ammonoosuc valley. The round and 
grassy summit of Pleasant overlooks the whole extent of the valley. The 
tracks of formidable slides are seen as the path descends to another 
plateau, and, passing Red Pond, clambers up Mt. Franklin. The summit 
(4,900 ft. high) is near the path, and commands a vast prospect, terminated 
by Chocorua, almost due S. and 20 M. distant. Between Franklin and 
Monroe the path passes over a narrow ridge whieh is the water-shed of 
the Connecticut and Saco Rivers. There are one or two dangerous places 
on this thin and lofty escarpment, and on the r. is the deep and terrible 
chasm of Oakes’ Gulf, while the Ammonoosuc valley stretches away on 
the other hand. This is one of the most remarkable points of view in the 
mts. Monroe is now rounded on the S. side, and the rough scramble to its 
E. peak (5,384 ft. high) is rewarded by another vast prospect. Mt. 
Washington now looms ahead as the path descends to the plateau on 
which are the Lake of the Clouds and Star Lake, two deep and crystalline 
tarns where the Ammonoosuc is born, li M. from the lakes is the bleak 
crest of Washington, and from the E. verge of the plateau is afforded a 
remarkable view down Tuckerman’s Ravine. There remains a sharp 
ascent among the rocks on the S. W. side of the peak, with a rise equal to 
1,200 ft. perpendicular, and then the summit is gained. 

The Route over the Northern Peaks is only practicable for strong 
pedestrians, who should be also efficiently guided, and should arrange to 
encamp for one night, since the journey is too long for a single day. The 
only path is that opened in 1876 by Chas. E. Lowe (who is a reliable 
guide), which ascends Mt. Adams from a point 8 M. W. of Gorham, on 
the road to Jefferson Hill. It runs 2 M. through great woods, £ M. 
through thickets, and 1^ M. over bare and rocky ridges. Mt. Madi¬ 
son may be ascended from Ilowker’s , on the N. E., but there is no 
path (4J M. to the summit). The Gordon path has disappeared, and the 
old Gorham guides seek the hills no more. The passage of King’s Ra¬ 
vine is too arduous to be enjoyable. Loive's path is the best route to 
the northern peaks, and in its course the noble pyramid of Adams is 
crossed, opening a striking * view. On the N. the mts. of Kilkenny, 
Randolph, and Gorham, with the long valley of the Androscoggin, and in 
the remote distance the lakes of Umbagog and Rangelev. The Glen and 
the green wall of Carter Mt. are on the E., while the vast dome of Wash¬ 
ington is uplifted in the S. Crossing now the bending ridge to Mt. Jeffer- 


MOUNT WASHINGTON. 


Route 33. 237 


xon, a continual front view of Washington is afforded, and after passing 
over Jefferson the Great Gulf is seen bending around on the 1. Mt. Clay 
is now ascended, and, after a short descent, the long slope of Washington 
is climbed to the summit. 

The Fabyan path from the Giant’s Grave to the top of Mt. Pleasant, 
and thence over Franklin and Monroe to Mt, Washington, is now dis¬ 
used ; while the old bridle-path from the W. slope, and the Davis path 
from the Mt. Crawford House, are but rarely traversed. The railway 
and carriage routes are the favorites, the first being easier and cheaper, 
and the last being richer in scenery. 

The * * view from Mt.Washington is the most grand and extensive in 
New England. In the S. is the Giant Stairs Mt. and the round top of 
Mt. Crawford, with Chocorua farther away, and Ossipee near the gleam 
of Lake Winnepesaukee, 35 M. distant. S. of W. is Mt. Carrigain, and 
the noble peaks of the Sandwich Range are beyond, while 100 M. away 
is Monadnock, “ a filmy angle in the base of the sky.” To the S. W. the 
peaks of Monroe, Franklin, Pleasant, and Clinton stretch off in a straight 
line, while the dark crests of Franconia fill the W., overlooked by the 
bald cone of Lafayette. Across the Connecticut are remote blue sum¬ 
mits of the Green Mts., with Mt. Mansfield and the Camel’s Hump, 70 
M. away. Stretching toward the N. W., only a few miles distant, are 
Cherry Mt., Mt. Starr King, and the hills of Kilkenny, over which the 
graceful Percy Peaks (Stratford) are seen, “ as near alike in size and 
shape as two Dromios.” Clay, Jefferson, Adams, and Madison loom 
across the Great Gulf in the N. and N. W. Glimpses of the Androscoggin 
are next obtained, and 35-50 M. W. of N. Lake Umbagog and the 
Rangeley Lakes are seen, with the dim Canadian highlands far to the N. 
A vast area of the State of Maine is outspread in the E., and it is claimed 
that Mt. Katahdin may be seen “ looming out of the central wilderness 
of Maine, cutting the yellowish horizon with the hue of Damascus steel.” 
Rut Katahdin is 150 M. distant. Mts. Hayes, Moriah, and Carter are 
seen more surely in the N. E. The lofty hills over Chatham fill the 
nearer E., and the eye follows down Pinkham Notch to N. Conway on its 
fair meadows, with Kiarsarge impending above. Beyond are seen Love- 
well’s Pond, by Fryeburg, and the bright Sebago Lake, while the ocean is 
sometimes visible in the remote S. E., merging with the weary horizon. 

*Tuckerman’s Ravine is visited from the summit, and is M. dis¬ 
tant by a route marked by splashes of white paint on the rocks. The 
Appalachian Mountain Club has had a good path made from the Crystal 
Cascade (see page 227) into the ravine. Another path leaves the moun¬ 
tain road 2 M. from the Glen, and runs in for 2| M. The lofty curving 
precipice-walls reach an altitude of 1,000 ft. or more. Immense masses 
of snow are piled up here, and remain until August. The Crysta 7 


238 Route 34. THE FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. 


Stream flows down under this incipient glacier and cuts a long arch under 
the hardened snow, through which one can walk for hundreds of feet. 
The cliffs back of the ravine are striped, after rains, with falling waters, 
called the “ Fall of a Thousand Streams.” After exploring this wonder¬ 
ful abyss, parties sometimes pass to the Glen House by following the 
Crystal Stream, with its many cascades, to the N. Conway road. 

34. The Franconia Mountains and Pemigewasset Valley. 

From New York to Franconia by Hartford, Springfield, Wells River, and Little¬ 
ton ; by Albany, Rutland, Bellows Falls, and Littleton ; by Springfield, Nashua, 
and Concord ; or by boat to New London, and thence to Brattleboro, Wells River, 
and Littleton. The connections are frequently changed, and the tourist should 
get a late time-table and railway-guide before choosing his route. 

From Boston to Franconia by Routes 29 and 3D, to Wells River, Littleton, and 

Wing Road; thence to Bethlehem Junction; thence, by narrow-gauge railroad 
across the wild Gale-River glen and around the rugged slopes of Mt. Lafayette to 
t.ie Profile House. This is the easiest route to the Franconia Notch. 

Or, leave the 0. & M. R. R. at Plymouth (see page 210), and take the Pemi¬ 
gewasset-Valley train by Campton Village, Thornton, and W. Thornton to N. 
Woodstock, whence stages to the Flume House (4 M.) aud Profile House (9 M.). 

The * Profile House (1,974 ft. above the sea) accommodates 600 
guests, and is one of the best of the mt. hotels. Its corridors are crowded 
during the summer with visitors from the coast-cities, and its dining-hall 
is said to be the finest in New England. This hotel is open from June 1st 
until the middle of October; its terms are $4.50 a day, with reductions 
for a long sojourn. 

The* Franconia Notch is about 5 M. long, and less than ^ M. wide, 
and is on the western verge of the Franconia Range proper. “The 
narrow district thus enclosed contains more objects of interest to the 
mass of travellers than any other region of equal extent within the com¬ 
pass of the usual White Mt. tour. In the way of rock-sculpture and 
waterfalls it is a huge museum of curiosities.” (Stahr King.) “The 
scenery of Franconia is more fantastic and beautiful than Dalecarlia or 
Norsland.” (Fredrika Bremer.) 

* Echo Lake is a short distance N. of the hotel, on the r. of the Little¬ 
ton road, and is a calm, deep, and lovely sheet of transparent water, 
encircled by rare scenery. During the day it reflects vividly the sur¬ 
rounding objects, but the later hours of the afternoon are the pleasantest, 
when the visitor can be transported over the quiet waters and see the 
forest-shores and mts. in the flush of evening. Remarkable echoes are 
awakened here by the bugle, voice, or cannon-shots. “ Franconia is more 
fortunate in its little tarn that is rimmed by the undisturbed wilderness, 
and watched by the grizzled peak of Lafayette, than in the Old Stone 
Face from which it has gained so much celebrity.” 


THE FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. 


Route 34- 239 


Bald Mt. is ascended by a neglected carriage-road, which diverges to 
the r. from the road about 1 M. N. of the hotel. The view from the 
summit is pleasing, especially just before sunset, when, besides the noble 
hills to the N. and the huge, conical Haystack Mt. to the E., a fine south¬ 
erly prospect is given, embracing the narrow notch, with Lafayette tower¬ 
ing on the 1. and Mt. Profile on the r. Echo Lake is seen in the nearer 
foreground. 

Profile Mt., or Mt. Cannon, is ascended by a steep foot-path S. of the 
hotel, in 2-3 hrs. The* view is of great beauty, including the Bethle¬ 
hem heights on the N., with Haystack, Lafayette, and the Mt. Washing¬ 
ton group on the E. and N. E. On the S., between Mts. Pemigewasset 
and Liberty, stretches far into the distance the fair and fruitful valley of 
the Pemigewasset River. On the summit is a rock which is supposed to 
resemble a cannon, and visitors often descend thence to the vicinity of 
the ledges which form the Profile. On the slope of this mt. (and reached 
by following the aqueduct into the woods back of the old Lafayette 
Plouse) is a lively brook which exhibits some fine cascades after heavy 
rains. Good views of Echo Lake and Eagle Cliff, with the highland val¬ 
leys to the N., may be obtained from the brookside. 

* * The Profile is best seen from a point by the roadside (marked by a 
guide-board) a few rods S. of the hotel. 1,200 ft. above the road, three 
enormous masses of rock project from the side of the mt., in the exact 
resemblance of the profile of an old man’s face, with firmly drawn chin, 
lips slightly parted, and a well-proportioned nose surmounted by a mas¬ 
sive brow. It is “ a mountain which breaks into human expression, a 
piece of sctilpture older than the Sphinx, an intimation of the human 
countenance, which is the crown of all beauty, that was pushed out from 
the coarse strata of New England thousands of years before Adam. 
The legend of “The Great Stone Face,” as told by Hawthorne, belongs 
to this place. Directly below the Profile (which is 40 ft. long) and near 
the road, is the crystal tarn called Profile Lake, or the Old Man’s Wash¬ 
bowl, a sequestered and beautiful sheet of water, from whose bosom is 
obtained a pleasing sunset view of the majestic Eagle Cliff. This is the 
best point from which to see that lofty and remarkable cliff (1,500 ft. 
high) which projects from the mt. opposite the Profile House. Near 
Profile Lake is the Trout-house, containing many tame breeding-trout. 

Mt. Lafayette, “the Duke of Western Cods,” is 5,259 ft, high, and is 
ascended by a bridle-path diverging to the 1. from the road, close by the 
Profile House, and rounding Eagle Cliff (3| M. long). The path is steep and 
arduous, but the ascent may be accomplished in 3 to 4 hrs. After a long ascent 
through the dense forest which covers the lower ."lopes, the path emerges 
(near the bright waters of the Eagle Lakes) upon a bare and rugged tract 


240 Route 31 


THE FRANCONIA MOUNTAINS. 


which affords an extensive off-look. The * view from the summit is 
broad and beautiful, with the Pemigewasset valley as its most pleasing 
feature, stretching S. to Plymouth (20 M. distant). The clustering 
Pemigewasset Mts. are seen in the S. W.; “ but the lowlands are the 
glory of the spectacle which Lafayette shows his guests. The valleys of 
the Connecticut and Merrimac are spread W. and S. W. and S. With 
what pomp of color are their growing harvests inlaid upon the floor of 
New England ! ” Mts. Monadnock (90 M.) and Kearsarge (over 50 M.) 
are W. of S., while certain peaks of the Green Mts. of Vermont are in 
the distant W. In the N. W. and N. are the bright villages of Littleton 
and Lancaster, with the rural districts of upper Cods, while the Profile 
and Echo Lakes are close below in the glen over which Profile Mt. towers. 
The Percy Peaks are nearly due N. beyond the blue Pilot Mts., and 
Haystack Mt. lifts its huge mass close at hand in the N. E. E. and N. 
E., 15-20 M. distant, is the great presidential group, with Mt. Wash¬ 
ington nobly overlooking the rest. 

The * Flume House (.$14-21 a week) is a neat and well-conducted 
hotel, 5 M. S. of the Profile House (frequent stages). Mt. Liberty is oppo¬ 
site the house, and Mt. Pemigewasset is behind it, while the rich southern 
valley is seen for leagues from this position. The last-named mt. is often 
:>winded for a few hundred ft., toward the sunset hour, when “ the spurs 
and hollows of Lafayette and his associates are lighted up by the splendor 
that pours into them from the west.” About 2 M. N. of the Flume 
House a succession of pretty cascades may be found by ascending the 
course of a brook which crosses the road. l£M. N. of the house, by the 
roadside, is the Basin, a granite bowl 60 ft. in circumference and 10 ft. 
deep, filled with clear water. “ The best way to enjoy the beauty of the 
Basin is to ascend to the highest of the cascades that slide along a mile 
of the mountain at the W. Then follow down by their pathways, as 
they make the rocks now white with foam, now glassy with thin, smooth, 
transparent sheets, till they mingle their water with the Pemigewasset at 
the foot, and, pouring their common treasury around the groove worn in 
the rocky roof, fall with musical splash into the shadowed reservoir be¬ 
neath. ” 

The Pool is gained in 20 minutes by a path leading into the forest op¬ 
posite the house. It is a basin cut in the solid rock, 150 ft. wide and 
over 100 ft. below the level of the path, with 40 ft. depth of dark, cold 
water. Visitors can descend to the level of the water, where an eccentric 
hermit dwells in a rude boat. The old path to the Flume is no longer 
available. 

* The Flume is reached by a road diverging to the 1. a short distance 
S. of the hotel, which runs to the foot of the lower cascade. From that 
point a path ascends by the smooth ledges over which the cascades glide 


THE PROFILE HOUSE TO PLYMOUTH. Route 34. 241 


musically to the entranced the Flume. A substantial plank-walk has been 
built along the course of the stream, which it often crosses. The ravine is 
about 700 ft. long, and its precipitous rock-walls are 60 to 70 ft. high. The 
Avails are about 20 ft. apart for most of the distance, but approach each other 
more closely near the upper end, where the gorge is narroAved to 10 ft. The 
huge boulder which long hung suspended here was sAvept away in 1883, 
Avhen a formidable slide from the mountain abo\'e rushed through the 
Flume. By clambering along the musical cascade to the upper end of 
the ravine, one can reach the edge of the cliffs above and look doAvn into 
the I lume. 

Georgeanna (or Harvard) Falls are S. W. of the hotel, and are reached 
by a forest-path that leaves the Plymouth road 1 M. S. of the hotel (guide 
at the farmhouse). After a long ascent which follows the stream through 
the forest, the falls are seen, “ making two leaps of 80 ft. each, one im¬ 
mediately after the other, Avhich, as Ave climb towards them gleam as one 
splendid line of light through the trees and shrubbery that fringe the 
lofty cleft.” From the ledge above these falls is gained “the stalwartest 
prospect in all Franconia.” 

The Profile House to Plymouth. 

(Stages leave two or three times a day for N. Woodstock, where the 
train is taken.) The road leads through the narrow glen for 5 M., passes 
the Flume House, between Mts. Pemigewasset and Liberty, and then de¬ 
scends to a more open country. The front vieAV is line, “so soft and 
delicate are the general features of the outlook oA'er the widening Pemigt- 
Avasset valleys so rich the gradation of the lights over the miles of gently 
sloping forest that sweep down towards Campton!’’ 4 M. beyond the 
Flume House the rugged town of Lincoln is left, Avith its 32,456 acres of 
land barely supporting a resident population of 71 persons. Woodstock is 
now traversed, with Black, Blue, and Cushman’s Mts. on the W., and 
Wanosha on the E., beyond which are glimpses of the peaks toward the 
White-Mt. Notch. This town has 8 or 10 boarding-houses, whose prices 
range from $7.00 to $ 10.00 a Aveek. 

Beyond Woodstock a fine * retrospect is afforded, Avhere “ the arrange¬ 
ment of the principal Franconia Mts. in half-hexagon — so that Ave get a 
strong impression of their mass, and yet see their separate steely edges, 
gleaming Avith different lights, running down to the valley—is one of 
the rare pictures in N. H. What a noble combination;—those keen 
contours of the Haystack pyramids, and the knotted muscles of Mt 
Lafayette beyond ! ” 


11 


p 


242 Route 34. CAMPTON. — WATERVILLE. 


In Woodstock are the summer boarding-houses of Dura P. Pollard, A. 
W. Sawyer, and others, charging $6 to $10 a week; and the great Deer-Park 
Hotel ($14 to $21 a week). The train is taken at N. Woodstock , and runs 
S. to W. Thornton (Valiev House) and Thornton (Merrill House; Foss’s; 
Jenkins’s), rich in mountain and meadow scenery. 

Campton Village ( Sunset-Hill House; Hillside; Brook-Farm; and 
boarding-houses of S. C. Willey, C. Cutter, F. A. Mitchell, C. G. Web¬ 
ster, etc., $5-10 a week) is a favorite summer-resort, very quiet and 
restful, surrounded bv lovelv scenerv, and much visited bv artists. At 
W. Campton is Sanborn’s Hotel, and farther S. is Blair’s. Welch Mt. is 
prominent in the landscape: the Sandwich Mts. are on the E.; and Mt. 
Prospect and Livermore Falls are in the vicinity (S. E. and S.). The 
Devil’s Den is a deep cave at Campton Hollow; and the views of the 

Franconia Range from Durgin’s Hill, and of the broad valley from the 
School House Hill are much admired. Following now the Pemigewasset 
River, the train reaches Plymouth (see pane 210). 

Waterville (Elliott's Mountain House) is 12 M. N. E. of Campton, 
and 18 M. from Plymouth, by a road leading up the Mad-River valley. 
There is good trout-tishing in this rugged town (which has but 54 inhab¬ 
itants), and some very romantic scenerv. Portions of the Sandwich Range 
lie in Waterville, forming bold and picturesque mt. groups, while the 
lofty peak of Osceola (4.400 ft. high) is in the X. E. There is a path to 
the summit of Osceola, and the view thence is grand. 

On the S. are the principal peaks of the Sandwich Range, Black Mt., AVTiite 
Face, and Bald Knob, with distant views of Mt. Ascutney and Winnepesaukee, 
the former being about S. W. Looking across the Pemigewasset valley the west¬ 
ern hills and the distant Green Mts. are seen- In the N. W. are the Franconia 
Mts., with Lafayette’s conical peak most conspicuous The heavy mass of Mt. 
Carrigain is close at hand, and nearly N., while farther are the peaks around the 
Notch, with Mt. Washington and the presidential group far beyond. N. of E. 
are Bear and Double Head Mts , over Pinkham Notch, with Moat Mt. hiding N. 
Conway, and Kiarsarge towering beyond, while the eye follows the Swift River 
valley for 18 M. to Conway. Below Conway, and nearly 40 M. distant, is Sebago 
Lake, and 25 M. beyond the ocean may be seen on clear days. 

The Flume, on a brook 3^-4 M. from the hotel, with Horton’s Cave 
and the falls on Cascade Brook, are frequently visited. Adventurous 
parties have penetrated the forests to the N. E. to the White Mt. Notch 
road, while the route by Flat-Mt. Pond leads by a rude bridle-path to 
Sandwich (on the S.). The trail to the Notch (a guide should be taken) 
leaving Mt. Carrigain on the 1., passes through the forest to the upper 
part of Sawyer’s River. The course of this stream is followed until it 
reaches the Notch road, at a point about midway between the LTpper Bart¬ 
lett and Mt. Crawford Houses (3 M. from each), and about 15 M. from 
Waterville. The path has been cleared recently, and its N. part is made 
easy by the Sawyer’s-Iliver Railroad, running into the forest as far as 
the Swift River. 


DIXVILLE NOTCH. 


Route 35. 243 


35. The Percy Peaks, Dixville Notch, and Lake Umbagog. 

The station and village of Groveton ( Metcher House , $2 a day, 
$8-10 a week) is 10 M. N. of Lancaster, and 31 M. N. of Gorham. It 
is near the confluence of the Upper Amiponoosuc and Connecticut Rivers, 
and is connected with Guildhall, the shire-town of Essex County, Ver- 
mont, by a bridge near the falls in the latter river. The town was settled 
in 1767, and fortified during the Revolution. Moose, Bellamy, and Cape 
Horn Mts. are in the vicinity, and from this point the ascent of the Percy 
Peaks is usually undertaken. Passengers for Dixville and the North go 
from Groveton by the Grand Trunk Railway, or from Lancaster by the 
Maine Central Railroad. 

At N. Stratford ( Willard House ) the Grand Trunk crosses the Maine 
Central line, from Fabyan’s to Quebec. This new route follows the Conn. 
River closely, crossing the thinly populated forest-town of Columbia, and 
then, flanking the vast mass of Monadnock Mt., enters the pretty village of 
Colebrook (Parsons House, accommodating 100 guests, at $7-10 a week; 
Monadnock House). The Dix House is at the entrance to Dixville Notch. 

This town was named in honor of Sir George Colebrook, an English knight, to 
whom it was originally granted. It is the northern shire-town of Coos County, 
which has an area of 1,950 square miles, with a population of 15.5S0, and a valua¬ 
tion of $4,946,910. Although New England is the stronghold of the Republican 
party, it is a curious fact #iat Cods and the other three mountain counties, 
Belknap, Carroll, and Grafton, usually go Democratic by fair majorities. Cole¬ 
brook has 4 churches and 1,372 inhabitants. It is said that 1 of the potato starch 
in America is made in this town (by 8 factories). 

Excellent trout-fishing is found on the sequestered streams in this 
vicinity. Mt. Monadnock is near the village, and may be ascended by a 
path leading in 4-5 M. to its summit. The Beaver Brook Falls are 
about 4 M. distant, and are well worthy of a visit. 

Dixville Notch 

is 10 M. S. E. of Colebrook, and is reached by a road leading up the valley 
of the Mohawk River, a pretty stream which affords good trout-fishing. 
“ The Dixville Notch is, briefly, picturesque,—a fine gorge between a 
crumbling conical crag and a scarped precipice, — a place easily defensible, 
except at the season when raspberries wotild distract sentinels.” (Theo¬ 
dore Winthuop. ) This pass is in the town of Dixville, which has 31,000 
acres of landand32 inhabitants, with a valuation of $20,000. The Notch 
is not a mountain-pass, but a wonderful ravine among high hills, whose 
impending cliffs are worn and broken into strange forms of ruin and deso¬ 
lation. “ At Dixville, all is decay, wreck; the hopeless submission of 
matter in the coil of its hungry foes.” The first view of the Notch is 


244 Route 35. 


LAKE UMBAGOG. 


disappointing, since it is entered at a high level by the road which has 
been ascending all the way from Colebrook. No mountainous line is seen 
in front, and it is only after leaving the great forest and making a sharp 
turn to the r. and a short, steep ascent, that the high, columnar sides are 
seen frowning at each other across the narrow chasm. These cliffs of 
decaying mica slate present a scene of ruin, transitoriness, and shattered 
strength, that is mournful and almost repulsive. 

* Table Rock is on the r. of the road, and is reached by a rude stairway 
of stone blocks called Jacob’s Ladder, whose divergence from the road is 
marked by a guide-board near the top of the first steep rise. The Rock is 
561 ft. above the road and 2,450 ft. above the sea, and is a narrow pin¬ 
nacle only about 8 ft. wide at the top, with sharp, precipitous sides. 

The view is very extensive from this point. Monaclnock looms boldly in the 
W. with other and more distant summits in Vermont; the Canadian Hereford Mt. 
is in the N. W. : while Connecticut Lake and the Magalloway Mts. are in the N. 
To the E. are the broad plains of Errol and the upper Androscoggin valley. But 
the most impressive sight is the dreary pass below with its broken palisades seem¬ 
ing ready to fall at any moment. The rock-spires opposite, which are seen from 
the road as clearly outlined against the sky, from this point lose their sharpness 
of form against the dark background of a lofty hill which towers over them. 

Above Table Rock a short path leads to the Ice Cave, a profound chasm 
where snow and ice may be found throughout the summer. The Profile 
is seen from a guide-board on the r. of the road, high up on the cliffs, 
while the Pulpit is pointed out on the 1. Farther on, a board on the r. 
directs attention to the refreshing waters of Clear Spring, and another 
board on the 1. points out Washington’s Monument and the Pinnacle, 
remarkable rock-formations which have recently been developed by clear¬ 
ing away the forests. A sign on the 1. shows the path leading to the 
Flume, where a brook runs through a gorge in the rock, which is spanned 
by a rustic bridge. The Hume is 20 ft. deep and 10 ft. wide, and has been 
formed by the erosion of a trap-dike. At the foot of the Notch (which 
is 1^ M. long), a board directs to the r. to the Cascades , before which 
is the grove where excursion-parties usually dine. Beyond the grove 
is a neat rustic bridge and seat, before a small cascade, and by following 
a rugged path up stream on the 1. (15 minutes) a cliff-side seat is reached, 
from which a noble series of falls are seen, descending sheer from the 
precipice above. 

The Clear Stream Meadows are below the E. side of the Notch and 
present a scene of pastoral beauty that strongly contrasts with the deso¬ 
late region behind. 

From this point the return is usually commenced, though parties of 
gentlemen prepared for a forest expedition sometimes go on to Errol Dam 
(Umbagog House), 1*3 M. distant. A steamer leaves the Dam for the Upper 
Magalloway River, and also for the Luke-Side House , at the foot of Lake 
Umbagog. Winthrop tells (“Life in the Open Air”) of his voyage in a 


CONNECTICUT LAKE.—CAPE ANN. Route 36. 245 


sniall boat to the Rarfgeley Lakes, passing through Umbagog, then over a 
3 M. portage, and thence traversing the Lakes Welokennebacook, Allegun- 
dabagog, Mollyehunkamunk, and Moosetocniaguntic to Rangeley (see Route 
41). From the Lakeside House at the S. end of Umbagog, daily stages 
run to Bethel (see Route 40). 

Connecticut Lake {Conn. Lake House) is 25 M. N. E. of Colebrook. 
It is 5^ M. long by 2| M. wide, and abounds in fish. A small steamer 
plies over its waters. 4 M. N. E. through the forest is Second Lake, 2£ 
M. long by 2 M. wide, while still farther N. is Third Lake, covering 200 
acres, and on the border of Canada is Fourth Lake, the source of the Con¬ 
necticut River. The latter lake covers 3 acres, and is 2,500 ft. above the 
sea. S. E. of Connecticut Lake the Magalloway Mts. are seen, while 
from its lower end the Connecticut River (“ Quonektacut,” meaning Long 
River, or River of Pines) flows down a long cascade. These lakes are in 
Pittsburg, a town of 200,000 acres, with but. 700 inhabitants. Game 
abounds in the forests, and fish in the streams. 

Daily stage from W. Stewartstovvn, in 17 M., to Connecticut Lake. 

36. Boston to Cape Ann. 

Traius several times a day, from Eastern R. R station, on Causeway St. To Man¬ 
chester, 25 M.; Gloucester, 31 ; Rock port, 35. Daily steamboats from Boston. 

Boston to Beverly, see page 248. Thence a branch line runs N. E., with 
fine views of Salem harbor, by Pride's Crossing, Beverly Farms, and W. 
Manchester, where there are noble sea-side villas and estates of wealthy 
Bostonians. Manchester-by-the-Sea {Manchester House, $7 a week) is 
a quaint little maritime village, about £ M. from the great * Masconomo 
House ($3.50 a day ; $25-40 a week; billiards, bowling, sail-boats, tele* 
graph, gas), near Eagle Head, the Singing Beach, etc. It stands on a fine 
headland, with a vast sea-view. The beach is hard and smooth. Inter¬ 
esting drives landward. Magnolia {Magnolia, Hesperus. Ocean-Side , and 
Blynnxan Houses, $ - 12 -20 a week each; Oak-Grove , Sea- Viero, and Willow 
Cottage, $8-12 each), 2-2* M., from the obscure Magnolia station, is a 
very popular summer-resort, on fine rocky bluffs over the sea, and near 
Norman’s Woe (see page 246). Wm. M. Hunt’s picturesque studio, The 
Hulk, is here; and his disciples still haunt the adjacent cliffs and forests. 
James Freeman Clarke’s summer-home is near by. Beyond dreary hills, 
the ridge of “the land of rocks and roses” (Cape Ann), the train reaches 

Gloucester ( Pavilion, $10-20 ; Gloucester Hotel ; Ocean ; Webster ; each 87 to 
$10 a week). At Good-Harbor Beach, Bass-Rock House (1£ M. out, $12 to $21 a 
week). At E. Gloucester, Harbor- View, Delpbine, Fair-View Houses, l£-2 M. out, 
and $7 to $15 a week each ; and others. 

Gloucester, the foremost fishing port in the world, stands on a fine harbor 
of Cape Ann, and has 25,000 inhabitants, 15 churches, and 5 banks. It is 
the end of the famous North Shore, lined with patrician Bostonian villas, 
and celebrated in art, poetry, and history. 


246 Route 36. 


GLOUCESTER. 


The City Hall is a new and elegant structure of brick, in the 
modern French style of architecture. The inner harbor is guarded by 
Ten Pound Island, and presents a rare scene of bustle and activity, being 
the very home of schooners. The outer harbor is protected from the sea 
by Eastern Point, with its lighthouse and fort, while on the W. shore is 
the Stage Fort (erected during the Secession War) from which is obtained 
a pretty view of the harbor and town. Directly across the harbor from 
the city is E. Gloucester , from whose rugged hills the compact streets, 
with the church-spires and the Collins School and lofty City Hall, make 
a pretty scene (the best near views are from Rocky Neck). Several large 
summer boarding-houses are scattered over the E. Gloucester peninsula, 
which has wild and rugged scenery on the seaward side. On Little Good 
Harbor is a beach, at the S. end of which are the Bass Rocks, where the 
surf rolls in grandly after an easterly gale. The City Hall Tower over¬ 
looks the pretty suburbs of Brookbank and Steepbank, and views the 
open sea beyond E. Gloucester. Within 5 minutes’ walk of the City Hall 
is Fort Point, a small, rocky promontory covered with fish-hakes, with 
the remains of an old fort on its highest point. Near by (and 3 minutes’ 
walk from the Gloucester Hotel) is a curving beach, facing the surf from 
the inner harbor and partly occupied by the Pavilion Hotel , of which 
Lady E. S. Wortley said, “ It is very much like being afloat in a line-of- 
battle ship, we are so close to the grand old Atlantic.” 

Beacon Pole Ilill, close to the city on the Annisquam road, commands 
an'extensive and interesting prospect of Gloucester, the bare, bleak hills 
of the cape, and the waters and shores to the N. and S. Beyond the hill 
is the hamlet of Riverdale. 

John Murray, the “ Apostle of Universalism,” planted that sect in Atnerica in 
1770,and preached for several years in this church. Jn the old Universalist Church 
is a curious organ, which was captured during the Revolution by a privateer. It is 
4 tt. high, and is played by turning a crank, its capacity being 30 tunes. In the 
First Parish Church (founded 1642) is a British cannon ball, tired into the town in 
1775. 

The pleasantest excursion about Gloucester is to Norman's Woe and 
Rafe's Chasm. About 2 M. from the city, a small road turns off to the 
1. from the Manchester road, and soon, losing all evidences of carriage- 
travel, runs into a sequestered path in the borders of the forest and by 
the edge of the sea. The dark and frowning mass of rocks soon seen, 
surrounded by the sea, is Norman's Woe, the scene of Longfellow’s poem, 
“ The Wreck of the Hesperus.” 

“ It was the schooner Hesperus 
That sailed the wintry sea. 

“ And fast through the midnight dark and drear. 

Through the whistling sleet and snow, 

Like a sheeted ghost the vessel swept 
Tow'rds the reef of JNorman’s Woe." 


ROCKPORT. 


Route 36. 247 


Following the precipitous, rocky shore about 1 M. S. W. of the reef, 
one comes to * Rafe’s Chasm, a remarkable fissure in the great cliff which 
fronts the sea. It is 6 ft. wide, 40-50 ft. deep, and 100 ft. long, and the 
roar of the waves is appalling when they sweep through it after a storm. 
Some distance beyond, on the same shore, is another curious cleft in the 
trap-rock. The ramble may be extended to Goldsmith’s Point and 
its summer villas, with Kettle Island and Great Egg Rock off shore, and 
the elegant * Magnolia House. A little to the N. (and near the 

Magnolia flag-station on the railroad) is a swamp containing the rare and 
beautiful magnolia-trees, whose flowers are out in July. 

“ Around the Cape ” is a favorite excursion from Gloucester, and the 
distance is 18 M. From Gloucester to Rockport by highway or rail¬ 

road, is about 4 M. By diverging to the r. from the main road a shore- 
road is gained, which leads to Rockport by Whale and Loblolly 

Coves, passing near Thacher’s and Straitsmouth Islands, with their tall 
lighthouses. Thacker's Island has two powerful Fresnel lights, in 
granite towers, 112 ft. high and ^ M. apart. There is a tradition that a 
rebel cruiser hit one of these lanterns with a cannon-shot during a dark 
night of the Secession War. 

Rockport (Sheridan House) is a well-named town of about 4,000 
inhabitants, with 6 churches and 2 banks. From costly artificial harbors 
along this rock-bound coast, great quantities of granite are shipped to all 
I arts of the Union. 2 M. N. of this village is the summer-resort of Pigeon 
Core (stages from Rockport station), with the Pigeon Cove, Ocean View, 
and Linwood Hotels (60-75 guests each; $12-15 a week). This was 
formerly a favorite resort of the great divines of the liberal sects,— Chapin, 
Starr King, Bartol, and others,—and has grown rapidly in popularity. The 
rocky shores furnish an endless variety of scenery, and the surf, after 
stormy weather, is grand in its power. Phillips Avenue and other streets 
have been graded on the heights by Pigeon Cove, and a large village of 
summer residences (called Ocean View) has been built here. 

From Ocean View, the road runs to Folly Cove, and near Folly Point, 
the N. limit of the Cape, to Lanesville, looking across the northern waters 
to the shores of Essex North, New Hampshire, and lower Maine. There 
are boarding-houses here, and a little way beyond is Bay View, where 
are large wharves, and a steam railroad running back into quarries which 
yield a favorite light-colored granite. On a sightly hill over the port is 
the elegant seaside cottage (of red and gray granite) pertaining to the 
Hon. B. F. Butler. Beyond is the hamlet of Annisquam, at the mouth 
of the Squam River, with summer boarding-houses and a group of villas 
called Cambridge Avenue, and owned by Cambridge people. It is about 
4 M. to Gloucester, by Riverdale and the hill known as the Poles, and up 
the Squam River. The ancient canal from Squam to the harbor has been 
reopened. The Grand-View ami Dudley Houses are at Annisquam. 


248 Route 36. 


CAPE ANN. 


Cape Ann was formerly inhabited by a small tribe of Indians, who called it Win- 
gaersheek. It was rounded by Capt. Smith in 1614, who named it Cape Traga- 
bigzanda in memory of a Turkish princess who had befriended him while he was 
wounded and a prisoner in Constantinople (1601). Prince Charles of England 
overruled Smith, and named the cape in honor of his royal mother. In 1625 the 
forest-covered promontory was settled by a colony under Roger Conant, who 
founded here the first Puritan church. Abandoned by Conant in favor oi Salem, 
it was soon re-peopled by another swarm from the English hive, and incorporated 
in 1642 under the name of Gloucester, since most of its settlers came from the 
English town of that name. The colonists soon exterminated the “ lyons ” and 
drove off the Indians. 1692 was “a year memorable in the annals of mystery,” 
and hundreds of French and Indian ghosts were thought to haunt the cape, and 
were often shot at but never hurt. So great was the panic that two regiments 
from the mainland occupied the cape. \> ith the decline of the witchcraft delusion 
in Salem the superstitious mariners of Gloucester lost sight of their mysterious 
enemies, and the guards were withdrawn. In 1716 the first terrible marine dis¬ 
aster occurred, when 5 large fishing-vessels from this port were lost off the Banks 
with all on board. In 1774 Edmund Burke, speaking of the Massachusetts fisher¬ 
men, said, “ No sea but what is vexed by their fisheries, no climate that is not 
witness of their toils ; neither the perseverance of Holland, nor the activity of 
France, nor the dexterous and firm sagacity of English enterprise, ever carried 
their most perilous mode of hardy industry to the extent to which it has been 
pursued by this recent people,— a people who are yet in the gristle, and not yet 
hardened into manhood.” In 1775 Cape Ann sent 300 men to the American army 
besieging Boston, and in August of that year Gloucester was bombarded for 4 
hours by the British sloop-of-war “ Falcon.” The minute-men held the town, and 
captured 4 boats, a tender, and a prize schooner with 40 men from the “ Falcon.” 
The ruined town was soon repaired, and with the close of the war, the cessation 
of privateering, and the reduction of the national navy, the fishing-fleets were once 
more manned and sent out. Gloucester had included the whole cape until 1840, 
when Rockport became an independent town. The canal from the harbor to 
Squam River (first cut in 1643) was long ago abandoned as useless. In 1873 
Gloucester received a city charter. 

William Winter, the poet, E. P. Whipple, the essayist, and Samuel Gilman, the 
Unitarian divine, were born here ; also, Capt. llaraden, who, with the “Picker¬ 
ing,” swept the Bay of Biscay and the North Atlantic, and took 1,000 cannon from 
the British on the sea, between 1775 and 1783. Epes Sargent, the author ; Henry 
Sargent, the painter ; and other notables of the same family, came from Glouces¬ 
ter. 

Land’s End, reached by a short and charming stage-ride from Rockport, 
is a domain of .350 acres, fronted by rocky cliffs and sandy beaches, near 
Thacher's Island and Straitsmouth Island. Numerous handsome summer- 
villas have been erected here, and a very comfortable hotel called the 
Turk's-Head Inn (200 guests; $12 to $20 a week). 

Eastern Point is another summer-resort of recent development, near 
Gloucester (whence stages run). The Beachcroft is the chief inn. 

Semi-dailv stages run from Gloucester to Annisquam, 4 M. ; Bay View, 5 M ; 
and Lanesville, 6 M. Daily stages to W. Gloucester, 3£ M., and Essex, 7 M. Tally- 
ho from Pigeon Cove to Beverly Farms. 


SOMERVILLE. — EVERETT. 


Route, 37. 249 


37. Boston to Portland and St. John. 

By the Eastern Division of the Boston and Maine Railroad. 

This D the most interesting and easy of the routes to Maine and the Maritime 
Provinces. No change of cars is necessary between Boston and Bangor. Boston to 
Salem, 16 M. ; to Newbury port, 36 M. : to Portsmouth, 56 M. ; to Poi tland, 108 M. ; 
to Augusta. 171 M.; to Bangor, 246 M.; to St. John, 446 M.; to Halifax, 636 M ; 
express-trains, Boston to Bangor, 8 hrs. 

The chief advantage possessed by this line is that it runs through the large sea- 
cities of Massachusetts, with frequent views of the ocean and the northern ha\s. 
Numerous popular seaside resorts are near its track, while many connecting lines 
run landward from it. Fares, to Portland, §3 00; to Bangor, $6.00; to St. John, 
$10.00 ; to Halifax, $14.00. 

The line nearly coincides with the route of the “Portsmouth Flying Coach 
Co.,” established in 1762, to make weekly trips by way of the Newburyport road. 
The fare was 13s. 6d. to Portsmouth and 9s. to Newbury. President Dwight 
(of Yale) rode over this route in 1796, and wrote, “No part of the United States 
famishes a tour equally pleasing. Nowhere is there in the same compass such a 
number of towns equally interesting, large, wealthy, and beautiful, or equally 
inhabited by intelligent, polished, and respectable people.” 

Two through express trains run daily each way between Boston and Bangor, 
240 M. 

The train leaves the terminal station on Causeway St., at the foot of 
Friend St., and runs out over Charles River on a long trestle. On 

the 1. is the track of the Boston and Lowell R. R., and on the r. are the 
Fitchburg and the Boston and Maine tracks. The heights of Charlestown, 
crowned by Bunker Hill Monument, rise on the r., and the manufactories 
of E. Cambridge are seen on the 1. Oif Prison Point (Charlestown) the 
Fitchburg R. R. is crossed, with the State Prison close at hand, and the 
McLean Asylum for the Insane on the 1. This Asylum was opened in 
1818, and has extensive buildings which cost over $200,000, surrounded 
by pleasant grounds. It was named for a philanthropic Boston merchant, 
who gave $150,000 for this object and to Harvard University. After 
running for nearly a mile over the waters of Charles River and Miller’s 
Creek, the line gains the Somerville meadows, and crosses the Boston and 
Maine track just before reaching Somerville station. Soon after leaving 
this station, Mt. Benedict and the site of the Ursuline Convent (de¬ 
stroyed by a mob in 1834) are passed on the 1. and the train crosses the 
Mystic River, — with Charlestown and E. Boston on the r. 

Station, Everett , whence the Saugus Branch diverges to the N., and 
passes through the suburban villages of Malden, Maplewood, Linden, 
Cliftondale, Saugus, E. Saugus, and Lynn Common. Near the latter vil¬ 
lage it rejoins the main line. The town of Everett was incorporated in 
1870, with a population of 2,222 and a valuation of $2,000,000. From 
this point the track runs S. of E. to Chelsea station. From Boston to 
Chelsea the road describes a semicircle with the centre of the curve in¬ 
clined to the N. W. The road formerly terminated at E. Boston, but a 
depot was built in the city, and a circuitous course was necessary in order 
to avoid the deep outer channels of the Charles and Mystic Rivers. 
Chelsea and Revere Beach are described in Route 2. The line soon crosses 
11 * 


250 Route 37. 


LYNN. 


Chelsea Creek and Saugus River, with the hotels on Chelsea (or Revere) 
Beach, on the r., skirts Lynn Harbor, passes W. Lynn, and stops at 

Lynn. 

Hotels. — Sagamore House. On the beach, Red-Rock House, $12 to $18 a 
week ; and Hotel Nahant, at beginning of Nahant Long Beach. Street-cars to 
Wyoma and Peabody, Swampscott and Marblehead, Chelsea and Boston. Stages 
to Nahant almost half-hourly. 

Lynn is a busy city of 56,000 inhabitants. Part of the city is on a plain 
near the sea, while a chain of porphyritic hills on the N. is adorned with 
many neat villas. Market St. is the main thoroughfare, and is lined with 
large commercial buildings, mostly of brick, although by far the greater 
part of the city is constructed of wood. Skilled American labor is em¬ 
ployed here to a larger extent than in the other manufacturing cities of 
New England (where foreign workmen are numerous). 

The city was founded in 1629, and named for Lynn Regis, in England, the home 
of its lirst pastor (1636 - 79). In 1810, it was the 7th town of Essex County; in 
1820, the 5th ; in 1830, the 4th ; in 1840, the 2d, which rank it still maintains 
(Lawrence being the largest city in the county). About 1750, the manufacture of 
ladies’ shoes was commenced here by a Welchman named Dagyr, and it has since 
grown to vast proportions, Lynn now being the first city in the world in this 
branch of industry. 

In 1767, Lynn made 80,000 pairs of shoes ; in 1810, 1,000.noo pairs; in IS'”, 
5,300,000 pairs; and in 1880, over 12,000,000 pairs, valued at $21,000,000. In 1880, 
there were employed 7,297 men and 3,389 women, in this work. 

The * Soldiers’ Monument is an imposing memorial (to 289 dead, out 
of 3,270 men sent to the war), with bronze statuary and tablets, near the 
City Hall. The Public Library contains 32,000 volumes; and the city has 
6 newspapers and 26 churches. Its business-district was burned in 1890. 

The *City Hall, one of the finest municipal buildings in New' England, 
is § M. W. of the station, substantially built of brick and brown stone, with 
a tower. It fronts on a long and narrow Common, near which is the mag¬ 
nificent St. Stephen’s Memorial Church (Episcopal), of red-gneiss rubble, 
with a very rich interior. Ilujh Rock is N. of the City Hall, and commands 
a w ide view of the city and the surrounding waters. Here was the home 
of Moll Pitcher, a reputed sorceress, and here also, in later years, have 
resided the Hutchinson family of singers. Pine Grove Cemetery is a 
beautiful rural burying-ground on the lulls toward the “ Lakes of Lynn.” 

Dungeon Rock is 3-4 M. from the city. Here, on one of the highest 
of a series of picturesque, forest-covered hills, it is said that certain pirates 
had their den and treasure-house, until an earthquake swallowed them 
up (in the 17th century). In 1852 a person came to this hill and began to 
dig for treasures under the inspiration of spiritualism and the guidance 
of clairvoyants. He worked here until his death in 1868, meanwhile 
cutting a passage into the iron-like porphyry rock, 135 ft. long, 7 ft. wide, 


SWAMPSCOTT. 


Route 27. 251 


and 7 ft. high. Near this point is the Saugus River, where a forge and 
smelting-works for working iron were erected in 1643. 

The pleasantest part of Lynn is the vicinity of Nahant St. and Saga¬ 
more Hill, where there are many fine villas belonging to Boston mer¬ 
chants. The bank building and the new Universalist Church are in this 
quarter, and are worthy of notice. Lynn Beach and Nahant (see page 21) 
are gained by way of Nahant St., while by following the shore toward 
the N. (afoot-path only) a line of elegant seaside villas is passed, and 
Swampscott is reached. 

Soon after leaving Lynn, the train reaches Swampscott, 

a fashion¬ 
able watering-place, which, like Nahant, is much affected by the aristocracy 
of Boston. Their elegant carriages and trim yachts are easily brought 
here (13 M. from Boston), and make land and water lively through the 
summer months. Numerous boarding-houses, small hotels, and cottages 
receive their quotas of the guests. The beaches are short and limited, 
but afford safe bathing, while the greater part of the shore consists of 
high bluffs and ragged ledges. Phillips' Beach, about 3 M. E. of the 
station, faces the open sea, and is nearly insulated by Phillips’ Pond. A 
large cluster of cottages is built on the prominent point over Dread 
Ledge, from which the shore trends W., and pretty views of Nahant Bay, 
the peninsula of Nahant, and the islanded Egg Rock, may be gained. 
The yachts and village fishing-smacks are usually anchored off Fisher¬ 
man’s Beach and along the S. shore. (See also page 407.) Beyond 
Swampscott the train reaches 

Salem. 

Hotels. — Essex House, 170 Essex St., $2.25 a day. 

Horse-cars from Essex and Washington Sts. to Peabody and Beverly, the 
Willows, N. and S. Salem, and Danvers. Y. M. C. A., 194 Essex St. 

Salem, the mother-city of the Massachusetts colony, and a shire-town 
of Essex County, is favorably situated on a long peninsula between two 
inlets of the sea. It has 31,000 inhabitants, and while slowly gaining in 
wealth, it is losing its place among the cities of the State and County, by 
their more rapid increase. The marine aristocracy of the old East India 
merchants and captains still holds lines of stately old-time mansions, and 
the stillness and grave propriety of the city is generally noticed by the 
visitor. The wharves are now occupied by the few coasting-vessels which 
have taken the place of the great East Indiamen which formerly entered 
here. Boston has taken this trade away, and the city is now supported 
by its lately developed steam-mills and factories. There is a safe and 
commodious harbor before the city, which is defended by I orts Pickering 
and Lee, and good boating is found there. The State Normal School is 
situated on Broad St., and has 160 girls in attendance. Instruction of a 


252 Route 37. 


SALEM. 


high order is given here without cost, on condition that each student shall 
teach (for a specified time) in the schools of the Commonwealth. The 
churches of the city are not remarkable for their architecture, although 3 
of them are of stone. There are 4 Unitarian churches, and 13 others. 

The East-India Marine Hall, on Essex St., was erected by the East- 
India Marine Society, 1824. It was purchased and refitted by the trustees 
of the Peabody Academy of Science, with funds given by George Peabody, 
of London, 1807; and contains the Museum of the East-India Marine So¬ 
ciety (commenced 1799), and the Natural-History Collection of the Essex 
Institute, received as permanent deposits, and later accessions. 

Here is a collection illustrating the orders of the animal kingdom, ar¬ 
ranged in their proper sequence from the lowest form to the highest. The 
most striking features are the corals, reptiles, birds, and the Australian mar¬ 
supials. On t*he E. side are the ethnological collections, which rank among 
the very highest in America, and are especially rich in South-Sea-Islamt 
implements, cloths, models, idols, domestic utensils, etc.; and Chinese. 
Japanese, and East-Indian life-sized models of native characters, besides 
the boats, clothing, utensils, implements of Avar and of domestic use from 
these countries, and from Africa, Arabia, and North and South America. 
The collection from Japan is the finest on exhibition in the country. In 
one part of the hall is a complete assortment of gods, Hindoo, Chinese, 
and Polynesian. The models of naval architecture are very numerous, 
and mark the progress from the rude Esquimau canoe to the model of the 
stately and heavily armed Salem East Indiaman, the “ Friendship.” The 
gallery is devoted to the Natural History and Archaeology of Essex County. 
Nearly every species of the flora and fauna is represented, the collections 
of birds and native woods being especially fine. The Academy has also 
the best local collection of prehistoric implements and utensils of stone, 
bone, and clay to be found in Essex County. The Museum is open, free 
to the public, every week-day from 9 to 12 and from 1 to 5 o’clock. The 
average number of visitors for fifteen years is upwards of 35,000 annually. 

The stately Plummer Hall (open 8.30-1, and 2.30-5), at 134 
Essex St., was erected by Miss Plummer’s bequest, on the site of Gov. 
Bradstreet’s mansion, and Wm. H. Prescott’s birthplace. The lower 
floor has a rich museum, with several Copley and Smibert portraits. 
Above is an elegant hall with white Corinthian columns at the sides, 
and some old portraits, the chief of which is a large, full-length paint¬ 
ing of Sir William Peppered in his favorite red costume. Oliver Crom¬ 
well, Secretary Pickering, Governors Leverett, Bradstreet, and Endieott, 
several early divines and ladies of the colonial era, are represented 
in these old portraits. There are three libraries (Athenaeum. Essex In¬ 
stitute. and S. Essex Medical Society) in the building, with an aggregate 
of 22.000 volumes, the larger part of which are in the hall The original 
charter of Massachusetts Bay, given by King Charles 1. in 1628, is pre¬ 
served here, together with sundry other quaint old documents of State. 
Over the main stairway is a graphic painting representing a scene in the 
witchcraft days. Behind Plummer Ilall, and reached bypassing around 
the building, is the oldest church edifice in the Northern States. It was 
built in 1034 for the First Church, of which Huger Williams was pastor, 
and was used for 38 years. In 1672 a new church was built, and this 
edifice was abandoned. It is about half as large as an ordinary parlor, and 
has a gallery, a high-pointed roof, diamond-paned windows, Hawthorne’s 
and Bowditch’s desks, spinning-wheels, spinnet, harpsichord, etc. 


SALEM. 


Route 37. 253 


The Roger-Williams House is at 310 Essex St., (with a one-storv shop 
in front). It was built in 1634, and some of the alleged witches had 
their preliminary trials here. Gallows Hill is 1 M. W. of the city, 
and commands a broad view over the harbor and surrounding country. 
Here 19 persons were put to death during the witchcraft delusion. In 
Harmony-Grove Cemetery , W. of Salem, George Peabody is buried; 
while in the village of Peabody (2 M. distant; horse-cars from Salem) is 
shown the house where he was born. The library (30.000 vols.) and col¬ 
lections of the Peabody Institute are worthy of a visit (open Wednesday 
and Saturday). The most notable object is the * portrait of Queen Victoria, 
given by her to George Peabody. It is 14 by 10 inches in size, painted on 
gold, and adorned with rich jewels. It cost $30,000. See also tine por¬ 
trait of George Peabody. 

Derby Wharf ’ on the S. of the city, was formerly the focal point of the 
E. India trade; and at its head stands the old Custom House where Haw¬ 
thorne was employed (his birthplace was at No. 21 Union St.). The Court 
House and the City Hall are granite buildings near the tunnel. In the E. 
is the broad Washington Square, near the brownstone East Church (Uni¬ 
tarian) and St. Peter's Episcopal Church. 

The Willows, 

reached by horse-cars in ^ hr., is a rocky point, viewing the North Shore 
and Bay, and provided with pavilions, gardens, restaurants, a skating- 
rink, music, boats, etc., frequented by the Salem people. Steamboats 
hence to Lowell Island and Beverly, several times daily. Juniper Point 
(Ocean-View; Juniper; Atlantic; Central) is a cottage-colony. Forts 
Pickering and Lee (now in ruins) and a light-house stand on the lonely 
Salem Neck, Hawthorne’s favorite haunt. 

Steamboats run several times daily from the Willows 5 M. to Baker’s 
Island {The Winne-Eyan, $10 to $18 a week), a pleasant summer-resort 
with fishing, boating, and sea-air. 

In 1626 Roger Conant left the fishing colony on Cape Ann, and built the first 
house on the Indian domain of Naumkeag. In 1627 the Plymouth Company 
granted to certain “ knights and gentlemen of Dorchester, and their heirs, assigns, 
and associates forever, all that part of New England which lies between a great 
river called Merrimac, and a certain other river called Charles.” John Endicott 
was sent over in 1628, and founded at Naumkeag the capital of this district. The 
colony was “called Salem from the peace which they had and hoped in it.” In 
1628 the First Church was formed, and in 1631 Philip Ratcliffe was scourged, had 
his ears cut off, and suffered banishment and confiscation of his property, “ for 
blasphemy against the church of Salem, the mother-church of all this Holy Land.” 
The militant disposition of the colonists was shown by the fact that during the 
first feAv years they imported £ 18,000 worth of furniture, building materials, &c., 
while £ 22,000 worth of arms and artillery was brought in during the same time. 
In 1629 there were 10 houses here, besides the governor’s house, which was gar¬ 
nished with great ordnance, “and thus wee doubt not that God will be with us, 
and if God be with us, who can be against us.” In midsummer, 1630, Gov. John 


254 JicmteS/. 


SALEM. 


Winthrop arrived at Salem with 10 ships and a large number of colonists. The 
lovely Lady Arabella Johnson, the daughter of the Earl of Lincoln, and the wile 
of Isaac Johnson, the wealthiest of the colonists, was the pride of the settlement, 
and the Hag-ship of the fleet was named for her. Before leaving England she in¬ 
sisted on accompanying her husband, — “ Whithersoever your fatall destine shall 
dryve you, eyt.her by the furious waves of the great ocean, or by the many-folde 
and horrible dangers of the lande, I wyl surely not leave your company. There 
can no peryll ehaunce to me so terrible, nor any kinde of death so cruell, that 
shall not be much easier for me to abyde than to live so farre separate from you.” 
Within 3 months after the landing, this brave patrician lady died at Salem (and 
was buried near Bridge St.). Her husband survived her but a month. 

Winthrop and Johnson moved S. to Charlestown, and thence to Boston, which 
soon became the chief town and capital of the colony (see page 7). Endieott, Pea- 
bod y, and others remained at Salem, and built mansions near North River, and 
the former led the 1st Mass. Regiment (organized in Essex County, in 1636) in a 
bloodless and successful campaign against the turbulent Anglican colony at Merry 
Mount (Braintree). In 1661 the Quakers were persecuted at Salem, and in 1677 
the Indians on the coast of Maine seized 20 vessels, mostly from this town, while 
4 vessels escaped by battle and returned to the port, bearing 19 wounded men and 
several dead. The witchcraft delusion arose in 1692 in the family of Samuel Parris, 
pastor of the adjacent village of Danvers. His daughter and his niece accused 
Tituba, a slave of the household, of bewitching them, and Parris whipped her 
until she confessed it. Tituba’s husband, under the influence of fear, charged 
certain other persons of the same crime, and Parris proclaimed that “the Devil 
hath been raized among us, and his rage is vehement and terrible, and when he 
shall be silenced the Lord only knows.” The jail of Salem was crowded w r ith 
Essex County people who had been denounced for diabolical communications. 19 
persons were hung on Gallows Hill, and Giles Cory was pressed to death. Cotton 
Mather was a leader in these persecutions, which lasted for 16 months, until the 
government became aware of its error, and released the scores of prisoners from 
the jail. In partial extenuation of this strange delusion, it may be said that Lord 
Chief Justice Ilale, Lord Bacon, Sir William Blackstone, Addison, Johnson, and 
other distinguished scholars believed in the reality of witchcraft and the pro¬ 
priety of its punishment by death. Quarter of the population of Salem left the 
town in panic, and after all was over, Parris acknowledged his error, and was 
dismissed by his church. 

In 1774 Gov. Gage ordered the removal of the legislature from the closed port 
of Boston to Salem. In 1776 a British regiment landed here, designing to destroy 
some military stores in N. Salem, but they failed to do it. Four Essex County 
regiments were enrolled in the Continental army, while the fishermen of Salem 
armed their craft and became privateersmen, by whom 445 British vessels were 
taken during the Revolution. After the war, E. H. Derby built a fleet of fine 
ships, and opened the East India trade, which by 1818 engaged 53 Salem ships ; 
and from this era most of the aristocracy of the city dates its origin. 

Salem lias given to the State, Senator Cabot, and Timothy Pickering, a Con¬ 
tinental otticer, who became successively U. S. Postmaster-General (1791-5), 
Secretary of War, and Secretary of State (1795- 1800). He was also a U. S. Sena¬ 
tor, 1803-11. Gov. Bradstreet, “the Nestor of New England,” and Gov. Endi¬ 
eott, spent much of their lives in Salem. Gen. Israel Putnam, of the Continental 
Army ; Gen. F. W. Lander, mortally wounded after leading in some brilliant 
actions of the War for the Union (1862); and F. T. Ward, commander of the 
armies of China until he was killed in the battle of Ningpo in 1862, were all 
natives of Salem. Also were born here, John Rogers, the sculptor ; N. Bowditch, 
the mathematician, astronomer, and author of “The Practical Navigator”; N. 

I. Bowditch, the antiquarian ; J. Prince and N. Adams, clergymen ; Benjamin 
Pierce, the mathematician ; the eminent merchants, Derby, Crowninshield, Phil¬ 
lips, and Gray : MariaS. Cummins, the novelist; John Pickering, the philologist; 

J. B. Felt, the annalist; and W. H. Prescott, born 1796, the author of histories 
of Ferdinand and Isabella, the Conquest of Mexico, the Conquest of Peru, and 
Philip II. of Spain, amounting to 11 octavo volumes, and translated into 5 Euro¬ 
pean languages. Nathaniel Hawthorne, one of the sweetest and purest of Ameri¬ 
can prose-writers, was born at Salem in 1804. After graduating from Bowdoin 
College (1825), he settled in Salem, and from 1838 to 1841 was in the Boston Cus¬ 
tom House. In 1841 he joined the Brook Farm Community, and from 1843 to 


MARBLEHEAD. 


Route 27. 255 


1846 he lived at Concord. 184G-50 lie was surveyor of the port of Salem, and 
1853- 57 he held the U. S. Consulate at Liverpool/ He died at Plymouth, N. II., 
May 19, 1864. The most important of his works of romance and miscellanies are, 
“ The Scarlet Letter,” — a weird and powerful romance of the early colonial days 
of Massachusetts,—and “The Marble Faun,” whose scene is laid in Rome, Peru¬ 
gia, and the Appenines. 

Four branch railroads run out from Salem. 

A line crosses the towns of Peabody and Lynnfield, to Wakefield on the Boston 
and Maine R. R. 4 trains daily pass into Boston by this route, and over the rails 
of the last-named company. 

The Salem and Lowell R. R. runs 

from the station near Salem Court House, to Lowell (24 M.). Fare, 80 c. ; 3 trains 
daily each way. This line crosses Peabody to Ipswich River, which it follows for 
6-7 M., and then passes through the towns of N. Reading, Wilmington, and 
Tewksbury, to Lowell. 

The Lawrence Branch R. R. runs 3 trains daily each way be¬ 

tween Salem and Lawrence, through the towns of Danvers, Middleton, and N. 
Andover. 

Another branch runs to Marblehead (4 M.), passing the Forest River Lead 
Works. 

Marblehead is built on a peninsula 

of 3,700 acres, very rocky and uneven. It was incorporated in 1635, and 
a chronicler of that time calls it “ Marmaracria, oppidum maritimum, 
saxis abundans.” Whitefield gazed in astonishment upon its rocky hills 
and said, “ Pray, where do they bury their dead ? ” The town has about 
8,000 inhabitants, and is situated on the side of a narrow, deep harbor. 
It was formerly engaged in the fisheries, but has latterly turned its atten¬ 
tion to the shoe-manufactory. A full regiment marched from this town 
to the Continental Army ; the crew of the Constitution frigate was mostly 
enlisted here ; and it is said that the town sent more men (in proportion 
to its population) to the Secession War than any other jdace in the 
Union. There are many quaint old colonial houses here, especially the 
bank building, which was raised in 1768 for an aristocratic mansion, and is 
but little altered. One of the churches was built in 1714, and is still 
used for services. (See page 408.) 

In June, 1813, there occurred a desperate naval battle off this coast, between the 
American frigate “ Chesapeake ” and the British frigate “Shannon.” The vessels 
were of about equal size, and the “Chesapeake” had sailed from Boston (with a 
picked-up crew) in answer to a challenge from the “ Shannon.” The latter vessel 
was splendidly handled, and after a few close broadsides, she ran alongside the 
“ Chesapeake ” and carried her by boarding, after a sharp resistance on the decks. 
The American Capt., Lawrence, was mortally wounded and carried below, his 
last words being, “ Don’t give up the ship.” The English Capt., Broke, was so 
badly wounded that he retired from the service, after carrying the “Chesapeake” 
into Halifax in triumph, and being knighted for his gallant achievement. 

Elbridge Gerry was born at Marblehead in 1744. lie was a Congressman, 
1776-85, and 1789-93, and signed the Declaration of Independence, but refused 
to sign the U. S. Constitution (1787). In 1812 he was elected Vice-President of 
the U. S. 

At this town is laid the scene of Whittier’s poem, “Skipper Ireson’s Ride.” 
Many years ago Capt. Ireson refused to take off some of his townsmen from a 
drifting wreck, because of the expense of feeding them all the way home. On 
his return the citizens tarred and feathered him, and rode him, in one of his own 
boats, to Salem and back, he remaining silent and unresisting. Whence the re¬ 
frain. 


256 lioute 37. 


BEVERLY. 


“ Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart. 

Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart 
By the 'women of Marblehead." 

In 1775 this town was only second to Boston in population. The 14th Mass. 
Continental Reg., raised here and in Salem, was one of the Hite corps of the 
army, and was called “ the amphibious.” It ferried the army across the East 
River by night after the defeat on Long Island, led the van in crossing the Dela¬ 
ware to the battle of Trenton, and escorted Burgoyne’s captive army through 
New England. The Marblehead privateers did great service ; one of them took a 
British ship off Boston, laden with 1,500 tons of powder and other stores. The 
“St. Helena,” 10, while convoying a fleet to Havana, was attacked at night by 
the British brig, “Lively.” At dawn, after a long fight, she lound herself under 
the guns of the line-of-battle-ship “Jupiter.” The captive Marbleheaders were 
put on board the “ Lively,” and 12 days later they rose and took her, and run into 
Havana. The Embargo (1810) ruined the maritime business of Marblehead, and 
at the close of the War of 1812, 500 of her sailors were in British prisons. 

Great fires nearly destroyed the town in 1877 and 1888. The birthplaces of 
Elbridge Gerry and Judge Joseph Story are still standing. St. Michael’s Episco¬ 
pal Church wsis built iu 1714; the Town-house, in 1727. In the Lee mansion 
(now used by the banks), Washington, Lafayette, and Jackson were guests. The 
well of the Fountain Inn (on Orne Street), where Sir Harry Fninkland met Agnes 
Surriage, still exists. Visitors should see Willard’s famous paiuting of Yankee 
Doodle , in Abbott Hall. Iu the Devereux Mansion, Longfellow wrote his poem, 
The Fire of Driftwood. Marblehead Neck, see page 409. 

Lowell Island, 5 M. from Salem, covers 25 rocky acres, and is the seat of an 
Episcopal summer-home for poor children. 

After leaving Salem the main line passes through a tunnel 600 ft. long, 
and crosses North River on a long bridge, between which and the highway 
bridge, a few rods down the stream, a fleet of yachts is moored for 8 
months of the year. Station, Beverly, an ancient village which was 
settled in 1630, but is now chiefly known for its extensive shoe-factories, 
which are concentrated about the public square near the station. Lathrop 
St. (named after Capt. Lathrop, a native of Beverly, who fell at the head 
of “the Flower of Essex,” in battle near Deerfield, in 1675) affords a tine 
marine promenade, with an extensive view over the bay, and its forts and 
islands. Here stands The Queen, a pleasant summer-hotel. 

Nathan Dane, who resided here from 1775 to 1S35, was an eminent jurist. In 
1787 he introduced and fought through Congress a bill excluding slavery forever 
from the vast domain N. W. of the Ohio River. Robert Rantoul, Jr., a powerful 
and popular politician, of remarkable purity of life and principles, was born here 
in 1S05. He filled the unexpired term of Senator Webster in 1851. Dr. A. P. 
Peabody, the eminent Unitarian divine, was also a native of Beverly. 

Station, Wenham and Hamilton. Wenham was settled about 1636, 
and its foundation was celebrated by Rev. Hugh Peters, who preached on 
the borders of its lake, from the text, “ At Enon, near to Salem, because 
there was much water there.” The town was called Enon for many years. 
An English tourist of 1686 wrote, “Wenham is a delicious paradise; it 
abounds with rural pleasures, and I would choose it above all other towns 
in America to dwell in.” Wenham Lake has a world-wide reputation for 
its ice, which is shipped to the remotest ports. The ice is kept free from 
snow, and is cut when a foot thick, an acre producing about 1,000 tons, 
which is stored in great buildings near the shore. These ice-houses (seen 
to the 1. from the track) have double walls of wood, filled in with saw- 


IPSWiClI. 


Route 37. 257 


dust, and preserve the ice through the heats of summer. Side-tracks run 
to the ice-houses by which it is carried throughout this part of the 
country, or to the ships at Boston. Salem gets its water-supply from 
this lake (the large reservoir is seen on a lull to the S. E.), and the water 
must be good according to one writer’s & priori reasoning, — “ of the soft¬ 
ness and purity of the waters of Essex County there can be no doubt, 
for its ladies are noted for their bloom and beauty.” Gail Hamilton (Miss 
Mary A. Dodge) resides in the town of Hamilton (named after Alexander 
Hamilton), a cpiiet farming village about 1^ M. N. E. of the station. A 
side-track leads here to the 1. to a large and favorite Methodist camp¬ 
ground, where many thousands congregate in the month of August, it is 
1 M. from the station, and its groves are tilled with small cottages. 60 
acres of land are included in this Asbury Camp-ground.) 

A branch line runs from Wenhani to Essex, a quaint old marine village, famous 
for ship-building, and near ocean-viewing hills. It was the birthplace of Rufus 
Choate, a brilliant orator, lawyer, and U. S. Senator. The picturesque Clie- 
bacco Ponds are 1 M. from Woodbvry's-Crossing station, among forest-covered 
hills, and are a favorite local summer-resort; having a large hotel and boats. 

The main line now crosses Ipswich River, and stops at Ipswich 
{Agawam House ; restaurant in the station). John Norton, of whom 
Cotton Mather says “ he spoke like Hortensius, and wrote like Abericus,” 
was the pastor of this village from 1636 to 1652. His colleague was 
Nathaniel Ward, the author of the “Simple Cobbler of Agawam,” who 
was rector of Stondon Marcy, Essex County, England, until silenced by 
Archbishop Laud for non-conformity. Capt. John Smith, in 1614, spoke 
of “the many cornfields and delightful groves of Agawam,” but in 1632 
a fleet of 100 canoes filled with fierce Tarratines from the Penobscot laid 
waste this fair Indian village and destroyed many of its people. So the 
coast was clear, and John Winthrop (afterwards founder of New London 
and first Gov. of Connecticut) bought the town of the Sagamore Mascono- 
met for $ 100, and settled here in 1633. 

“The people are noted for their hospitality ; in summer the sea-wind 
blows cool over its healthy hills; and take it for all in all, there is not a 
better preserved specimen of a Puritan town in the ancient Common¬ 
wealth.” The chief village is situated on the r. of the track, on both sides 
of the Ipswich River, which is crossed by two stone bridges, one of which 
dates from 1764. It has a fine public-library, a soldiers’ monument (to 
65 dead), a harbor abounding in clams, and nearly 4,000 acres of hay-pro¬ 
ducing salt-marsh. There are about 4,500 inhabitants in the town, 
which has hosiery-factories and 6 neat churches. This is the seat of 
Ipswich Female Seminary, an old and famous school “ where Andover 
theological students are wont to take unto themselves wives of the 
daughters of the Puritans. ” 

A few miles to the E., down the river, is the North Ridge on Great 

Q 


258 Route 37. 


NEWBURYFORT. 


Neck, and Ipswich Bluff, a favorite summer camping-ground for fishing 
parties. 

Station, Rowley (the chief village is over a mile S. W.), a town largely 
composed of salt marsh. It was settled in 1638 by a nomadic church, led 
by Ezekiel Rogers, who had been rector of Rowley in Yorkshire, and was 
silenced for Puritanism (non-comformity.) In 1650 he died, leaving his 
library to Harvard College, and his estate to the Rowley Church. The 
first cloth made in America was turned out from works erected by these 
immigrants. The line now runs across a wide and desolate moor, crosses 
the Parker River, passes the Oldtown Hills on the r., crosses the Newbury- 
port R. R. (Boston and Maine), and stops at 

Newburyport. 

Hotels. — Wolfe Tavern, State St., $2.50 a day, $10-15 a week. Horse-cars to 
Amesbury, by Merrimac St. ; and to Plum Island (AV um-1 stand Hotel, see 
page 260). Stages daily to Artichoke, W. Newbury (8 M.), Groveland (8 M.), Haver¬ 
hill (11 M.), Oldtown, Salisbury Beach. Steamers to 

Plum Island; also to Black Rocks (in simmer), whence horse-cars to Salisbury 
Beach. Railroad to Boston (see page 276). 

Newburyport is an ancient sea-city, beautifully situated on a declivity 
facing the Merrimac River, and within 3 M. of the ocean, which is seen 
from its wharves and house-tops. It has about 14,000 inhabitants, and a 
valuation of § 8,000,000. There are 16 churches, 4 banks, and 

2 daily and two weekly newspapers. The chief retail trade is earned on 
in State St., while the wholesale trade is on the water-front, which is 
traversed by a marginal steam-raihvay connected with the Eastern Rail¬ 
road track. Since the absorption of foreign commerce by Boston, New¬ 
buryport has been forced to adopt the policy of the other small cities of 
the coast, and sustain itself by manufactories, while the old marine aris¬ 
tocracy has isolated itself from the new regime. The decadence of the 
city is shown by its decrease in population between 1860 and 1870, which 
amounted to over 500. The streets are generally broad, straight, and quiet, 
while great numbers of shade-trees are found in every part of the place, 
being cared for under the provisions of a fund left for that purpose by a 
public-spirited citizen. The streets which run up from the river are short, 
and terminate at High St., a broad and umbrageous avenue running6M. 
along the crest of the ridge, and lined with mansions of the olden time. 
One of these (near the head of Federal St.) was the home of Caleb Cushing, 
the eminent jurist and diplomatist. Near the head of Olive St. is the 
mansion formerly occupied by Lord Timothy Dexter, an eccentric 
merchant who made a large fortune by singular ventures (sending a cargo 
of warming-pans to the West Indies, and other speculations of a like 
nature). On High St., near State, is a pond covering six acres, and sur¬ 
rounded by a mall and terraced promenade, on which the Essex County 
Court House is situated. Nearly opposite is the Putnam Free School, a 
high school of wide reputation, and the Roman Catholic Chure> while St. 


NEWBURYPORT. 


Route 37. 259 


Paul’s Episcopal Church and the graceful Gothic Chapel of St. Anne are 
but a short distance beyond (on High, near Market St.). The City Hall 
is a large, plain building fronting on Brown Square, near which are the 
North Church, the 1st Baptist, and the Unitarian (the latter having a 
tall and graceful spire). 

The Public Library was founded by Josiah Little and well endowed by 
George Peabody. It occupies the old Tracy mansion (on State St.) where 
Washington, Lafayette, and other noble guests have been received in the 
palmy days of the place. The two upper stories are now formed into a 
hall, containing about 15,000 books, while on the lower story is a large 
public reading-room (magazines and newspapers). The Marine Museum 
(open daily; on State St.) contains a collection of curiosities brought in by 
the ships of Newburyport. Besides the usual mementoes of distant lands 
and peoples, there are shown some very elaborate and handsome models 
of ships. 

Oak Hill Cemetery is a beautiful rural burying-ground on State St., 
beyond High. It is entered through a noble granite gateway, bearing the 
inscription, “ Until the daybreak, and the shadows flee away.” State 
St. runs out into the country, and is prolonged (under the name of the 
Newburyport Turnpike) through Salem and Lynn to Boston. It was 
formerly the road traversed by the great northern and eastern stage-lines. 
The Old South (Presbyterian) Church is on Federal St., and has long 
since entered upon its second century. In a vault under the pulpit of 
this church are the mortal remains of George Whitefield, the founder of 
the Calvinistic Methodists, who died in Newburyport in 1770. This 
church also has a fine whispering-gallery, only equalled by the one at St. 
Paul’s, London (the sexton lives in the small house next to the church). 
The two-story wooden house back of the Old South was the birthplace 
of William Lloyd Garrison. 

The river and harbor and neighboring sea afford fine opportunities for sailing 
and fishing, in the summer, which are utilized by a large fleet of pleasure-boats. 
A favorite drive is to the Chain Bridge (about 3 M. up river), a place of rare 
natural beauty, with the large stone mansion, “ Hawkswood,” on one bank, and 
on the other the castellated and far-viewing house occupied for several seasons by 
Sir Edward Thornton, the British Ambassador. Hawkswood was built by the Rev. 
J. C Fletcher, author of works on Brazil, with his daughter, .Julia Fletcher, the 
novelist. On Deer Island, at the end of the Chain Bridge, dwells Harriet 
Prescott Spofford. The Laurels and the Artichoke Paver, made famous by 
Whittier’s poems and John Appleton Brown’s paintings, are above Chain Bridge 

The Devil’s Den is an old excavation in the limestone ledges, about 2 M. S. of 
the city (by State St.). Asbestos, amianthus, and serpentine are found there. 
Dummer Academy is about 3 M. beyond this point, and is an ancient and famous 
school, which was founded and endowed by Gov. Dummer' in 1756. Near the 
Academy is Dummer Avenue, with the finest lines of elm-trees in Essex County. 

3-4 M. from the city is the ancient and picturesque Indian Hill mansion of 
Ben Perley Poore, the author and journalist. This broad and rambling old house 
may be called the Abbotsford of New England, so many are the historic curiosi¬ 
ties which have been gathered here. The old Garrison House is near Oldtown 
Green and is a well-preserved specimen of the massive defensive architecture of 
the early colonial days. It was built during the 17th century, and has suffered 
but little change. 


260 Route 37. 


SALISBURY BEACH. 


The continuation of High Street by Oldtown Green to Pipe-Stave Hill (which 
commands a broad sea-view) and Parker River, affords a drive through a weU- 
settled rural district, which has an English air, in the carefulness of its cultiva¬ 
tion and the antiquity of its houses. Plvm Island is 2-3 M. E. of Newburyport, 
and is “ a wild and fantastic sand-beach, reaching to Ipswich, 10-12 M. distant, 
and thrown up, by the joint power of winds and waves, into the thousand wanton 
figures of a snow-drift.” It is joined to the city by a causeway, and has a hotel 
and two lighthouses, near the N. end. The beach slopes rapidly, and having a 
strong undertow, is not used for bathing, but the breaking of the sea on this bold 
shore after a storm affords a grand sight. 

Salisbury Beach (horse-cars in summer) is 4 M. from New¬ 

buryport, on the N. side of the Merrimac. The farming town of Salis¬ 
bury is traversed, after crossing the river. This town was settled in 
1638, and named (in 1640) in compliment to its first pastor, who came 
from Salisbury in England. Many ancient houses are to be seen here; 
among others the birthplaces of Caleb Cushing and of Abigail, the 
mother of Daniel Webster ; also the audience-room of the royal commis¬ 
sioners of 1699, and the provincial boundary council in 1737. A long 
plank-road runs across the marshes to the beach, which 

is 6 M. long, extending from the Merrimac to the Hampton River. The 
sand is hard, smooth, and gently sloping, and is well adapted for long 
drives, and for bathing. The low ridge of sand 

above the high-tide line is taken up by a line of cottages which extends 
for over a mile along the shore. Many tents are pitched on the sands 
during the summer, and Whittier’s poem, “ The Tent on the Beach,” 
well describes this mode of life and the scenery in the vicinity of the 
beach (where its scene was laid). 1J M. S. of the plank-road is the 
mouth of the Merrimac River, with the picturesque ruins of an abandoned 
fort (built to command the entrance), while the city of Newburyport is 
in full sight up the river. Plum Island and Cape Ann are seen on the S. 
from the beach, and Boar’s Head, the Isles of Shoals, and Mt. Agamenti- 
cus on the N. and N. E. Following a custom which is now two centuries 
old, the people of the surrounding towns congregate here every year on a 
day late in August, and enjoy themselves. Sometimes more than 25,000 
people assemble. Steamboats run from Newburyport to Black Rocks. 

Newbury was settled in 1635 by a colony, under the pastor Thomas Parker, 1 
which entered the river since called Parker, in the ship “ Hector.” There are but 
few towns in New England whose annals are so peaceful as are those of Newbury, 
which in the 238 years of its history has not felt the tread of a hostile foot, nor seen 
the flash of a hostile gun. The interests of the maritime village at the mouth of 
the Merrimac were found to be so different from those of the farming town of 
Newbury, that Newburyport received a separate organization in 1764. In 1772, 
90 vessels were built here, but the Revolution and the drain of men for the Essex 
County regiments checked the prosperity of the place, and in 1788 only 3 vessels 
were built. President Dwight says of the village in 1796, “ Indeed, an air of 

1 Parker studied at Magdalen College, Oxford, and early distinguished himself by writing 
two wonderful Latin books, — “ De Traductione Peecatoris *' and “ Methodus Divinae 
Gratiae.” When old and blind, “ the Homer of New England,” he had a long controversy 
with President Chauncey. “ He went unto the immortals, in April, 1677, in the 82nd year 
of his age.*’ 


NEWBURYPORT. 


Route 27. 261 


wealth, taste, and elegance is spread over this beautiful spot, with a cheerfulness 
and brilliancy to which I know no rival.” Washington, Lafayette, Talleyrand, 
Louis Philippe of France, and other famous men were entertained here by the 
aristocratic families. An extensive foreign commerce was firmly established, and 
in 1807 the tonnage of the port was over 30,000. The Embargo fell with crushing 
force upon this maritime industry, and the Great Fire of 1811, which swept away 
16 acres from the most densely built quarter, checked the prosperity of the town, 
and reduced its population to 6,388. its valuation in 1810 was about the same as 
in 1870. The town grew slowly, and its Merrimac-built ships were famous through¬ 
out the world for fleetness, strength, and symmetry, and were made in large num¬ 
bers until the decline of American commerce. The cotton-manufacture was com¬ 
menced here in 1836, and is now the leading business of the place, although con¬ 
siderable attention is paid to the coasting trade, and there is a large fishing fleet 
belonging to the port. The carriage bridge across the Merrimac was built in 
1827, and the Chain Bridge, above the city, was the first suspension bridge in 
America, and the second in the world. The great turnpike running to Malden 
Bridge and Boston was finished in 1806, at an expense of $420,000. 

Among the natives of Newburyport were, the lawyers, Charles Jackson, Simon 
Greenleaf, John Lowell, Joseph Blunt, and Theophilus Parsons ; the physicians, 
James Jackson and W. Ingalls ; the inventors, Jacob Perkins and Edmund Blunt; 
the poets, Lucy Hooper and H. C. Knight; the authors, George Wood, George 
Lunt, S. L. Knapp, and Hannah F. Lee ; the divines, J. Greenleaf, Bishop Clarke, 
Gardner Spring, G. R. Noyes, and Stephen H. Tyng ; the generals, Michael Jack- 
son (Revolutionary War, commander of the 8th Mass.), and N. T. Jackson (Secession 
War); and the senators, William Plumer and Tristram Dalton. Among those long 
resident here were Hannah F. Gould, the poetess ; J. B. Gough, the temperance 
orator; Caleb Cushing, Rufus King, J. Q. Adams, and Harriet Prescott Spofford. 

William Lloyd Garrison, “the leader of the emancipationist movement in the 
U. S.” was born at Newburyport in 1805. He began to advocate the immediate 
abolition of slavery about 1830, and led the movement in that direction until it 
was accomplished, bravely enduring many persecutions. 

Newburyport sent 1,600 soldiers against the Rebellion of 1S61-5. 

(Jen John Parker Boyd, the East-Indiau soldier ot fortune j Prot. C. C. Felton, 
of Harvard; and Jonathan Parsons, the theologian, were natives of Newburyport. 
Jetties are being built at the mouth of the river, at a cost of $400,000. The first 
tea was destroyed here ; the first Continental-army voluuteer company formed here ; 
aud the first American privateer sailed hence to sea. Near by, in Byfield, stands 
the hou e built in 1676 by Wm. Longfellow, and long occupied bv the ancestors 
of our greatest poet. Read Mrs. Spolford's “Newburyport aud its Neighborhood” 
(Harper'8 Magazine, July, 1875). , , J , 

A noble bronze statue of George Washington was presented to Newburyport by 
one of its absent sons, in 1870, and now adorns the open space on High St., near 
the Mall. It is the masterpiece of J. Q. A. Ward, the eminent sculptor. 

After leaving Newburyport, the Portland train crosses the Merrimac 
River at a high level, on a costly and massive new bridge, 1500 ft. long. 
Fine views are afforded (to the r.) of the city and river, with the ocean in 
the distance. Stations, R. Salisbury and Seabrook, a thinly settled town, 
whose territory is mostly covered with forests and salt marsh, and whose 
name is derived from the numerous brooks which flow through it to the 
sea. Many of the people are engaged in making whale-boats, and the 
inhabitants of the seaward part of the town (S. Seabrook) long bore an 
unenviable reputation. Their physiognomy, dialect, and clothing weie 
so marked and unique that they were always recognized in the neighboring 
city and designated as “Algerines.” A religious and educational mission 
was established here about 1866, and is now self-supporting and prolific 
in benefits. Seabrook was settled in 1638, aud was olten harried duiing 
the Indian wars. 

Station, Hampton Falls, S. E. of the village of the same name, which 


262 Route 37. 


HAMPTON BEACH. 


has a large monument erected by the State to Meshech Weare, the first 
President of N. H. (1776 -85). 

Dr. Langdon, chaplain of the N. H. regiment in the Louisburg expedition, 
received 10,000 acres of land in N. H. for “his services, fatigues, and dangers.” 
He was President of Harvard University, 1774-80, and pastor at Hampton Falls, 
1781 -07, and at his death he left his line library to the village church. In August, 
1737, the Governor of Mass, rode to this little hamlet at the head of the Legis¬ 
lature and escorted by 5 troops of horse. Here, in the George Tavern, he had 
long conferences about the provincial boundaries, with the Governor and Legis¬ 
lature of N. H. The latter demanded the territory which now composes her two 
lower tiers of towns, which had been settled by Mass, men under Mass, charters. 
The Governors failed to agree, and an appeal was sent to the King, setting forth 
how “ the vast, opulent, and overgrown province of Mass, was devouring the poor, 
little, loyal, distressed province ol'N. II.” The royal heart was touched, and the 
King commanded Mass, to surrender two tiers of towns (28 in number) from the 
Conn. River to the sea. 

The railroad now passes over long tracts of salt-meadow, on the E. of 
which is Hampton Beach and the ocean. Station, Hampton, an ancient 
village which was settled in 1638, on the Indian domain of Winnicummet, 
and near a block-house erected by Mass, in 1636 to mark its N. E. border. 
The first settlers were from Norfolk in England, and were long exposed 
to pitiless attacks from the Indians. The town is now a quiet and 
pleasant land of peace and plenty, abounding in gray old colonial man¬ 
sions, and traversed by broad and level roads. The village near the 
station {Union House, good) has three churches in the old Puritan archi¬ 
tecture. Stages run from the station, 3 M. to the S. E., to Hampton 
Beach {Boor’s-Head Hotel , $7 to $20 a week; Granite , Ilatnpton- 
Beach , Eagle , Sea-View and De-Lnncey , $7 to $15 a week; and half- 
a-dozen boarding-houses, at $6-12 a week). Besides the hotels, there are 
many small summer cottages on and near the beach. Boar’s Head is a 
bold bluff 70 ft. high, which projects into the sea from a stony strand, and 
affords the best marine views oti the N. H. coast. On the S. is the long 
and vague line of the beaches which front Essex North and stretch by New- 
buryport to Cape Ann, while Mt. Agamenticus is seen in the N., beyond 
Rye with its village of hotels, and the Isles of Shoals are off shore on the 
N. E. The Boar’s-Head Hotel is favorably situated on the little grassy 
plateau on the bluff, and has a fine sea-view. (See Whittier’s poem, 
“Hampton Beach.”) 

From the vicinity of Boar’s Head a sandy beach extends S. to Hampton 
River, where many vessels were made in the colonial days. The river 
forms a safe harbor for coasters, though its entrance is fringed with rocks 
and shoals. Its clams are famous, and water-fowl formerly abounded, 
while the settlement of Hampton was due to the abundance of salt hay on 
its marshes. Salisbury Beach begins on the S. shore of the river, and 
extends to the Merrimac. At half and low tide may be seen the rocks 
off shore, of which Whittier sings (in “ The Wreck of Rivermouth ”): — 

“ Rivermouth Rocks are fair to see, 

By dawn or sunset shone across. 

When the ebb of the sea has left them free 
To dry their fringes of gold-green moss ; 


IlYE BEACH. 


Route 37. 263 


“ For there the river comes winding down 
From salt sea-meadows and uplands brown, 

And waves on the outer rocks at'oam 
Shout to its waters, ‘ Welcome Home.’ 

“ Once, in the old Colonial days. 

Two hundred years ago and more, 

A boat sailed down the winding ways 
Ot Hampton River to that low shore.’’ 

North Beach lies to the N. of Boar’s Head, and was formerly lined 
with fish-houses from which the hardy fishermen put out to sea in small 
boats. A road runs N. near this stony strand, to Little Boar’s Head and 
Rye Beach. The beach at Hampton is composed, for the most part, of 
a gradual slope seaward of hard sand, affording fine facilities for surf¬ 
bathing and also for driving (at low tide). The favorite drives from 
Hampton, inland, are to Exeter, to the rich fruit-growing town of Green¬ 
land, to the ancient village of Hampton Falls, and to Stratham Hill. 

The next railroad station is A r . Hampton, in a sparsely populated farm¬ 
ing town. Stages run throughout the summer to Rye Beach, 4 M. E. 

Hotels. — * Farragut I louse. $ 4 a day, $ 17.50 - 21 a week ; Sea-View, $ 15 - 25; 
Rising-Sun, $8-15; Ocean-Wave Boardinr/-houses of J. IT. Perkins, I Marden, 
II. Sawyer, C. A. Jenness, L. T. Sanborn, G. II. Jenness, A. Bachelder, 0. II. Coffin, 
and many others, at $ 7 - 18 a week. Episcopal ( '/lurch of St. Andrew’s-by-the- 
Sea. There is an admirable drive along the shore to Straw’s Point, commanding a 
succession of interesting ocean views. 

Rye is the most fashionable of the N. II. beaches, and presents an 
agreeable alternation of sharp and storm-worn ledges with strips of sand 
on which bathing is safe and pleasant. On the S. is Little Boar’s Head, 
a sea-beaten bluff on which several fine cottages have been built, together 
with a large private boarding-house. A long sandy beach stretches X. E. 
from Jenness Beach to Straw's Point , which was bought a few years since 
by Gov. Straw, and is now occupied by tlie fine seaside cottages of several 
X. H. gentlemen. An extensive marine view is obtained from this point, 
from Boon-Island Light on the X. E. to Cape Ann on the S., embracing 
nearly 40 M. of coast. One of the Atlantic telegraph-cables ends here. 

Drake is of the opinion that “ the shore full of white sand, but very stony and 
rocky,” near which Capt. Gosnold anchored (in 1602), was Rye Beach. The town 
of Rye was settled in 1635, and was named from the English home of some of the 
immigrants. In 1696 a flotilla of Indians attacked the people at Sandy Beach and 
killed or captured 21 of them. In the same year the colonists retaliated by at¬ 
tacking an Indian band while at breakfast. The hill where this action took place 
(to the r. of Greenland station) has ever since been called Breakfast Ilill. The 
little town lost 38 men in the Revolutionary War. Large sea-walls of pebbles are 
seen near the Rye beaches, which were thrown up by the waves in the great storm 
which destroyed Minot’s Ledge Lighthouse. 

Beyond N. Hampton is Greenland station (Washington House); and 
several summer boarding-houses, in a small fruit-growing toun. The next 
station is 

Portsmouth 

Hotels. * Rockingham-House, first class, 300 guests, $20-25 a week ; Kear* 
sarge House ; Webster House, $7-10 a week. 


264 Route 37. 


PORTSMOUTH. 


Railroads, to Saco and Portland ; to Newburyport, Salem, and Boston ; to 
N. Conway and the White Mts. ; to Manchester and Concord ; to Kittery 

and York. Steamers daily (in summer) in 1 hr. to the Isles of Shoals ; a small 
ferry-boat plies between Portsmouth and the Navy-Yard. Stages run to New¬ 
castle (3 M.) semi-daily, and Newington (5 M.) daily. 

The site of Portsmouth was first visited by Capt. Pring in 1603, and afterwards 
by Capt. Smith in 1014. In 1623 it was settled (on Odiorne’s Point) under the 
auspices of the Laconia Company. A small fort armed with several cannon was 
erected on Great Island in 1635. The town was called Strawberry Bank until 
1653, on account of the abundance of strawberries which grew on its hills and 
around the “ Great House ” of the proprietor, Capt. Mason. The people chose 
Portsmouth as “ a name most suitable for this place, it being the river’s mouth, 
and as good as any in the land,” although they probably accepted the idea from 
Capt. Mason, “the founder of N. II.,” and proprietor of its islands, who had 
long been governor of the South Sea Castle, in the harbor of Portsmouth, Eng¬ 
land. The village was fortified with palisades which effectually guarded it from 
Indian marauders, who were repulsed by cannon in 1676. In 1696, a party landed 
near the Plains from a fleet of canoes and killed 14 Englishmen. In 1739, the 
town’s-people firmly resisted the annexation of N. H. to Mass., and thus secured 
the provincial independence of the former. In 1746, a new 16-gun battery was 
built near Fort William and Mary, on Great Island, and a 9-gun battery was built 
at Little Harbor, to resist the expected French Armada. In Dec., 1774, Sullivan 
took Fort William and Mary by surprise (with Rockingham County volunteers), 
and carried away 100 barrels of powder and 15 cannon, and in 1775 the same 
gentleman led the 3d N. II. Regiment to the Continental camp at Cambridge. 
At the close of the Revolution, He Warville found here “ a thin population, many 
houses in ruins, women and children in rags, and everything announcing decline.” 
A brisk era of maritime prosperity soon carried the town to a higher level, and 
many fine mansions were built for the new families of consequence. But the 
Embargo, a succession of disastrous fires, and the decline of its commerce, fully 
checked this tide of prosperity, and the city (chartered in 1849) has long been 
losing ground. Between 1853 and 1S70 it lost over 1,800 inhabitants. 

Portsmouth, the capital of New Hampshire from 1712 to 1807, and its 
only seaport, is a quaint and pleasant old city (of 10,000 inhabitants), 
situated on a peninsula 3 M. from the mouth of the Piscataqua* River. 
“ There are more quaint houses and interesting traditions in Portsmouth 
than in any other town in New England.” The Mansard mania has not 
reached these quiet and shaded streets, and the prevailing architecture 
seems to be that of the colonial days. There is a fine U. S. building 
here, also a few neat churches, while the Parade, or central square, ex¬ 
hibits two or three specimens of curious old architecture. The city has 
4 banks, 9 churches, 2 daily and 3 weekly newspapers (of which the 
N. II. Gazette is the oldest American paper continuously published, 
having been established in 175G). There are also manufactories of shoes, 
carriages, furniture, cotton goods, &c. The quietness of the city, its 
salubrious sea-air, the pleasant drives in the vicinity, and the nearness 
of fine beaches, render Portsmouth a favorite and desirable summer-re¬ 
sort. The Athenaeum (on Market Square) has about 12,000 volumes and 
a large reading-room. The old Church of St. John is worthy of a visit, 
and so is Gov. Wentworth’s mansion at Little Harbor (2 M. distant). 
This is a large, irregular, and picturesque building (dating from 1750) 
which contains the old provincial council-chamber, and many quaint 


THE ISLES OF SHOALS. 


Route 37. 2G5 


relics of the past, amon" which some portraits by Copley will be noticed. 
George Washington paid a visit to this mansion while the Wentworths 
were still there (it passed out of their hands in 1817). Portsmouth Har¬ 
bor is one of the best in New England, always free from ice, 70-80 ft. 
deep, and the river is f M. wide opposite the city. 

Portsmouth has given to American literature, T. B. Aldrich, J T. Fields, B. P. 
Shillaber, and Eliza B. Lee ; to the church, Dr. Nichols and Bishop Parker; to 
the bar, Judges Livermore and Langdon, and the Atkinsons : to the State, Gov. 
Penning Wentworth, Sir John Wentworth, and Senator John Langdon ; and to 
the navy, Commodores Parrott and Long, and Commander Craven. 

Opposite Portsmouth (steam-ferry frequently from the foot of Daniel 
Lt.) is the U. S. Navy Yard, on Continental Island, in the town of Kittery 
(Maine). It has extensive ship-houses, machine-shops, rigging-lofts, 
wharves, and barracks; also a dry-dock which cost .$ 800,000. 

This city has ever been famed for its naval architecture. In 1690, the “ Falk¬ 
land,” 54 guns, was built here ; in 1696. the “ Bedford,” 32 ; in 1749, the “ Amer¬ 
ica,” 40 ; in 1776, the “Raleigh,” 32; in 1777, the “Ranger,” 18; in 1784, the 
“America,” a superb line-of-battle ship, presented to France. The Pepperell 
Hotel is a pleasant summer-resort at Kittery, with tine sea-views, boating, bath¬ 
ing, tishing, and riding. The Ocean-View Hotel is near by. 

Kittery Point village, n$ar the Navy Yard and Fort McClary, has the ancient 
Fepperell, Sparhawk, and Cutts mansions, tine old colonial houses,tilled with the 
remnants of their quaint furniture. Pepperell’s tomb is near the first-named. 

Sir William Pepperell was born at Kittery Point in 1696. He rose rapidly in 
the colonial military service until 1745, when he commanded the expedition which 
took Louisburg, for which he was knighted. He occupied important positions in 
New England, was made a lieut.-gen. in the British army, and Gov. of Mass., and 
died in 1759. His grandson. Sir W. P. Sparhawk, assumed the Pepperell name 
and inherited the vast estates, which were sequestrated in 1778, on account of 
his adherence to the British government in opposition to America. 

The* * Isles of Shoals are 10 M. from Portsmouth, and consist of 8 
rocky islets (9 M. from the shore), the largest of which contains 350 
acres. There is but little vegetation on these rugged ledges, which lift 
themselves out of deep water, and are surrounded by the purest and 
coolest sea-air. 

The steamer leaves Portsmouth in the morning, and affords a fine retro¬ 
spect of the city. The public works and national vessels at the Navy 
Yard are soon passed, and then the island-town of Newcastle (on the r.). 
This town was settled before 1630, and incorporated in 1693. It was the 
site of old Fort William and Mary, and now has the powerful Fort Con¬ 
stitution and the Portsmouth Light. On the 1. Fort McClary is seen, on 
Kittery Point, and the Whale’s Back Lighthouse is passed, with Frost’s 
and Odiorne’s Points on the r. As the steamer gains the open sea, the coast 
of Maine is seen on the N. W., trending away beyond Mt. Agameuticus. 
The Isles are now rapidly approached. The * Applet/ore House is a great 
hotel on Appledore Island, accommodating 500 guests, at $ 3.50 a day (steam¬ 
ers from Portsmouth 3 times daily). The * Oceanic Hotel (300 guests; * 3 
aday ; $ 15-17.50 a week) is on Star Island, the former site of the vil- 


2GG Route 37. 


YORK. 


lage of Gosport. Several family cottages are attached to the hotel, 
and leased by the season. On Star Island is a small cavern, where 
a woman once hid in a rocky recess while the Indians massacred the 
people of the settlement. It is said that she killed her two children to 
prevent them from discovering her to the Indians by their cries. Another 
point on the rocky shore was the favorite resort of a lady school-teacher, 
who was wont to read' there, until Sept. 11, 1848, when a huge wave 
washed her away, to be seen no more. Fine trap-dikes are found on this 
Island. 1 M. S. W. is White Island, with a powerful revolving light, 87 
ft. above the water, and visible 15 M. away. Haley’s (or Smutty Nose) 

Island is between Appledore and Star, and has the graves of 10 of the 
crew of the Spanish ship “ Sagunto.” Duck Island is 2 M. N. E. 

The ancient stone church and the triangular marble monument to Capt. John 
Smith are on Star Island. On Haley’s Island are several fishermen’s houses. The 
hotels have bands of music, billiards, bowling, and a fleet of sail-boats; and a small 
steamboat plies between the islands. John O. Whittier, Celia Thaxter, and other 
authors have passed much time here. 

The Isles of Shoals were discovered by Champlain in 1605, and were visited by 
Argali in 1613, and by Smith in 1614. The last-named mariner named them 
Smith’s Isles, but the present name was early adopted, and in 1623 “ the Isles of 
Shoulds ” are spoken of (derived probably from the shoaling or “schooling” of 
the fish around the islands). 

The present Appledore Island was soon colonized, and in 1640 had a considerable 
village of fishermen, with a church and court-house. In 1661, it had 40 families, 
and in 1670 the people removed to Star Island for fear of the Indians, who never¬ 
theless destroyed the colony in 1675. In 1647, “The humble petition of Richard 
Cutts and John Cutting ; Sheweth —That contrary to an order or act of Court, 
which says that no woman shall live on the Isles of Shoals, John Reynolds hath 
brought his wife hither, also pigs and goats.” The latter were removed by order 
of the Court, but the woman remained. Star Island was fortified, and an exten¬ 
sive fishing-business arose. The fish caught and cured by the islanders were sent 
mostly to Spain and to the West Indies, and by 1770, the town had over 500 in¬ 
habitants. In 1870, the population had dwindled to 94, and in 1872, Star Island 
was purchased and depopulated. 

York village is 9 M. N. E. of Portsmouth. 

It is a quiet and pleasant old 
maritime hamlet, with several ancient houses, and a slender-spired church 
which was built in 1748. 4 M. N. are two quaint old garrison-houses, — 

while the clayey valley of York River, being 
fertilized with sea-weed, has some fine farms, which are noted for their 
apples and cider. 1£ M. from the village is York Beach, one of the best 
in New' England, about IV M. long and formed of gently sloping ham 
gray sand. At its N. end Cape Neddick runs out into the sea, with a 
curious rocky islet called “The Nubble” off its point, and separated from 
it by a deep, narrow, and tide-swept channel. 

Hotels. — Marshall House , S 10 -15 a week; Harmon House and York-Harbor 
House , at York Harbor; Norwood’s, Baker’s, and IVhiting's boarding-houses at 
Norwood Farm , between York Harbor and Long Sands ; * Hotel Bartlett , $ 10 - 15, 
a handsome house, at \V. end of Long Sands, accommodating 200 guests, pro¬ 
vided also with billiards and hot and cold sea-water baths; Garrison House , at 


BALD HEAD CLIFF. 


Route 37. 2G7 


W. end of Long Sands, $8-20 ; Donnell House , middle of Long Sands ; Sea Cot¬ 
tage, $12, near middleof Long Sands; at Union Bluffs (E. end of Long Sands), 
are the Grand View, Fairiuouut, and Agameutieus Houses. The far-viewing 

Cliff House is at Bald Head Cliff. There are many cheap cottages to let on Loug 
Sands and at Concordvitle (1 M. from lighthouse on Nubble). See also Harper's 
Magazine for Sept., 1883. A brauch railroad from Portsmouth to Kittery and 
York was opened in 1887. 

6-7 M. from York Beach (by a bad road through Cape Neddick) 
is Mt. Agamenticus, a lofty hill whence fine views of the ocean and of 
the White Mts. may be obtained. About 5 M. N. from the beach is 
* Bald Head Cliff, a remarkable rocky promontory, “ second only to the 
Giant’s Causeway in wild and majestic grandeur.” The highly inclined 
strata of the ledges show long and regular stripes of vivid and variegated 
colors, while the action of storms and rolling surf has broken the cliff 
into curious shapes. The view from the Pulpit when a heavy sea is roll¬ 
ing is awe-inspiring, with such force do the great surges break on the 
rocks below. On its S. W. side the cliff falls sheer for 85 ft., to the 
water. Some years since, a new barque from Kennebunkport, being 
lightly ballasted, was driven in on Bald Head Cliff, and lost, with its crew 
of 14 men. Boon Island is seen off shore, with its lighthouse, 133 ft. 
above the sea. The Nottingham Galley, 10 guns, was wrecked on this 
island in 1710, and a horrid cannibalism sustained the life of the few men 
who were saved. The long Ogunquit Beach stretches from Bald Head 
Cliff to Wells. 

York was settled about 1624, and in 1642 Sir Ferdinando Gorges established 
• here the city of Gorgeana, with a full municipal government, and semi-yearly 
fail’s, —to occur at the feasts of SS. James and Paul. Gorges was Lord Palatine 
of Maine, and vainly tried to establish a feudal system here. The death of Gorges 
and the rise of the English republic made it easy for Massachusetts to take pos¬ 
session of Gorgeana City in 1652, and 10 years later the province took away the 
city charter, and named the town York. It was then the chief place in Maine, 
and received a large addition to its population by the arrival of a detachment of 
exiled Scotchmen who had been captured by Cromwell at the battle of Dunbar. 
The Indians made frequent attacks on York, and in 1676 they destroyed Cape 
Neddick village and its people. Feb. 5, 1692, the town was attacked at dawn by 
300 Indians and Frenchmen, who had marched from Canada on snow-shoes. 
Many of the villagers gained refuge in the garrison-houses, which were success¬ 
fully defended while the remainder of the settlement was destroyed. After a 
bloody slaughter in the streets the assailants retired, leading 100 prisoners with 
them to Canada, after killing 75 of the people of York. Henceforth until 1744, 
the settlers kept guarded as if in a state of siege, and throughout Queen Anne’s 
War (1702-1712), spy-boats patrolled the coast between Cape Neddick and Boar’s 
Head. 3 companies from York went to the Louisburg campaigns, and on the 
morning after the battle of Lexington, 60 men marched thence to Cambridge. 

* The Wentworth is a modern and first-class summer-hotel ($4.50 a 
day; $ 21 -$ 35 a week), with electric lights, billiards, bowling, stables, 
orchestra of 20 pieces, music hall, boating, bathing, fishing, and an im¬ 
mense view along the coast, including 8 light-houses, and toward the 
inland hills. It is 2 M. from Portsmouth (frequent stages) and near New 
Castle, a quaint fishermen’s town of 600 inhabitants (see pages 264-5). 
On Jaffreys Point is tlie stone-cowered villa of Edmund C. Stedman, the 
poet and critic, near the home of John Albee, a graceful local poet. 


268 Route 37. 


KITTERY. — WELLS. 


Kittery Point ( Pepperrell House, $8-17 a week) is 4 M. 

from Portsmouth, 3 M. from Kittery (see also page 205), and close 
to Fort McClarv and the Pepperrell mansion. The Hotel Park Field 
is also at Kitterv Point, close to the water’s edge. The Hotel Poca¬ 
hontas ($ 10 - 21 a week) is on Pocahontas Point, on Gerrish’s Island, close 
to the sea-beach, with capital boating, bathing, fishing, etc., and broad sea- 
views. The island covers 2,000 acres, with woods, glens, drives, etc. The 
hotel is 2 M. from Kittery Point, 1 M. (across river) from New Castle, 
j M. from Whale’s-Back Light, and 7 M. from the Isles of Shoals (in sight). 

Beyond Portsmouth the Portland train crosses the Piseataqua River, 
affording a pleasant view (to the r.) of the ancient city, and the Navy 
Yard. Stations, Kittery (3 M. from Kittery Point), Eliot (a pretty farm¬ 
ing-town), and Conway Junction, where trains diverge to N. Conway and 
the White Mts., 71 M. distant (see Route 31). Station, N. Berwick (N. 
Berwick Hotel), a brisk village, where the Boston & Maine Railroad crosses. 
Station, Wells. 

''.Veils was founded in 1643 by Rev. John Wheelwright, who had been banished 
from Mass, for heresy. In 1676 the settlement was vainly attacked by Mogg 
Megone, and in 1692 a furious assault was made by 500 men, led by French offi¬ 
cers. After a 48 hours’ siege, the enemy, led by M. Burniffe, Gen. Laboc-re, and 
the Tarratine chiefs Madockawando and Egeremet, attempted to storm the tort, 
but were disastrously repulsed by the artillery and musketry of Capt. Converse’s 
garrison. In 1703, 39 of the people of Wells were killed or captured. 

Wells Village ( Matthews House, 75 guests, $10 to $12 a week) is about 4 
M. S. E. of the station, finely situated on a ridge overlooking the ocean 
(see page 283). The houses are built along the old northern post-road, and 
separated from the beach by Wells River. 1^ M. from the village (good 
road) is Wells Beach ( Atlantic House , $10-16 a week), a sandy strand, with 
rocky-ledges off shore, furnishing good bathing and hunting. The view 
from the Atlantic House is grand, embracing Boon Island, Ogunquit Beach, 
and the trend of the coast from Bald Head Cliff to Cape Porpoise. A short 
distance S. of Wells is the ancient village of Ogunquit, with Bald Head 
Cliff beyond, while 4-5 M. N. is Kennebunk. 

The Boston and Maine R. R. has a station within 1 M. of the Atlantic House 

Station, Kennebunk (see page 283), 3 M. from the village {Mousam 
House), which has several factories and shipyards, with 4 churches. 
3-5 M. beyond are the maritime villages of Kenncbunkport and Cape 
Porpoise. Large granite breakwaters are built out on each side of the 
mouth of the Kennebunk River, from which a beach runs W. 2-3 M. to 
the Mousam River. There are several small boarding-houses here (Sea 
Vieiv, Beach, and Fairmew Houses). Near Cape Porpoise village (Goose 
Rocks House) is a group of small islands sheltering a good harbor. 

This locality was first visited in 1602, and settled in 1629. In 1690 the provin¬ 
cial garrison on Stage Island was removed, and the Indians soon attacked the 
settlement, upon which the people withdrew to Jhe fort. After a long siege by 
the Indians, a crippled man from the fort escaped by night in a leaky canoe to 
Portsmouth, whence aid was sent, and the people were taken off. The place was 
deserted for 9 years, and 3 years after its resettlement (1702) it was utterly de 
stroyed by 500 Indians. In 1713 the town was again occupied, and in 1717 it was 


BIDDEFORD. 


Route 37. 2G9 


incorporated by the Mass. Legislature, with the name of Arundel. After bearing 
this name for 104 years, the town discarded it for its present name. 

Beyond Kennebunk (see also page 283) the train reaches Bidde- 
ford (Biddeford House), a city of 15,000 inhabitants, with 4 banks 
(2 of deposit), 4 newspapers, and 13 churches. Across the Saco lliv. r 
is the city of Saco (Saco House), with 0,000 inhabitants, and 4 banks 
(2 of deposit) the York Institute (Library and Museum), and the Saco 
Yacht club. The Saco has 55 ft. of falls, furnishing a water-power which 
is utilized by the York, Pepperrell, and Laconia cotton-factories, running 
175,000 spindles, with about $3,000,000 capital, and employing over 
3,000 operatives. Several hundred men are engaged in large machine- 
shops, while great numbers are in the lumber-mills. 

This district was first visited by I)e Monts in 1605, and Vines wintered here in 
1617-18. Permanent settlements were made about 1630, and in 1675 the Sokokis 
Indians were repulsed with severe loss from the fort at the falls. In 1703, this fort 
was taken by another attack, led by French officers, and in 1708 Fort Mary was 
built. Biddeford was bought for £90 by Wm. Phillips, of Boston, and in 1718 
received its separate incorporation, and was named for an English city whence 
came several of its settlers. It became a city in 1855. Saco was incorporated as 
Pepperellborough in 1762, and was named in honor of the knight who owned its 
territory. It was called Saco in 1805, and became a city in 1867. The celebrated 
Saco River regiment (5th Maine) was raised hereabouts in 1861, and served through 
the Secession War, being most distinguished for its brilliant bayonet-charge at 
Rappahannock Station, where it took hundreds of prisoners and the flags of the 
8th Louisiana, arid 6th, 7th, and 54th North Carolina regiments. 

Biddeford Pool is 9 M. from the station (7 M. for pedestrians, by Fort 
Hill and the ferry).' Steamers run twice daily from the pier below the 
falls, down the beautiful river to the Pool. 

The Sect-View House is the only hotel remaining at the Pool, the others having 
been burned At Lay \ iew, or Ferry Beach, — Bay- View House, 150 guests, 
$8 -12 a week. 

The steamboat from Biddeford touches at Ferry Beach, connecting there with 
the Old-Orchard-Beach li. It 

The village is on a peninsula opposite the hill on which are the ruins of 
Fort Mary (built in 1708). Near by is a quaint old house of the 17th 
century. The Pool is a broad and muddv-bottomed cove, which is very 
nearly land-locked, and is filled by each tide. There was formerly a 
popular belief that whosoever entered the Pool on the 26th of June would 
he cured of all disease. On the ocean-front near the Hotels is a tine, sandy 
beach with good facilities for surf-bathing (rent of bathing-houses, $1.00 
a week), while a resounding rocky shore stretches around toward the 
harbor. N. E. of the Pool is Stctye Island, where a British frigate de¬ 
stroyed 5 vessels in 1814, and Wood Island, with a powerful revolving 
red light. 

The Boston and Maine Railroad (Route 3S) touches the present route at Bidde¬ 
ford, and tourists who wish to visit the Pool will find that route equally near. 

After leaving Biddeford, the train crosses the Saco River, and passes on 
to Saco station, with fine views of the sister cities on the r. 5 M. farther 


270 Route 37. SCARBOROUGH.— PORTLAND. 


on is IP. Scarborough station; and then conies Scarborough , whence stage* 
run ;J M. E. to Scarborough Beach (Atlantic House, 150 guests, $ 1*2-21 a 
week; Kirkwoo l House, $ 8 -12 a week). The 

baach is 2-3 M long, hard, level, and safe for bathing, while the fishing 
off-shore is very good. A fine piece of forest near the Atlantic House fur¬ 
nishes pleasant walks. Prout’s Neck (Checkley House, on the outer 
rocks, 60 guests, $ 10- 1*2 a we-k; West-Point, Prout’s Neck, and Cam- 
mock Houses, and Ocean Cottage, each $8-10 a week) projects into the 
ocean from the S. end of the beach 2 M. from the Atlantic; while on the 
N. is Richmond’s Island, off the mouth of Spurwink River; with Cape 
Elizabeth and Bowery Beach beyond. 

This town was settled about 1630, and in 1658 subnutted to Mass, and adopted 
the English name, Scarborough, in place of its Indian name, Owascoag(“a place 
of much grass”)- In King Philip’s War it was defended by troops of Mass, 
against several Indian attacks, over 200 men being in garrison here. The troops 
were called away in 1676, and the enemy destroyed the town, and in 1677 240 
Mass, soldiers were landed here. They were fiercely attacked, and defeated with 
the loss of 60 men and their commander, Capt. Swett. In 1681 a large fort (parts 
of which still remain) was built at Black Point, but the town was abandoned 
between 1600 and 1702. In 1703, the fort was attacked by 500 men under M. 
Beaubarin, but was defended by a brave little band from Lynn, while heavy rains 
caused the hostile mines to fall in. After over 100 English lives had been sacri- 
tied by the Indians, Scarborough became firmly established, and in 1791 was as 
populous as Portland (2,235 inhabitants). The exodus from Maine has greatly 
weakened this town, which in 1870 had a population smaller by 544 souls than 
that of 1791. 

6 M. beyond W. Scarborough (passing Scarborough and Cape Elizabetli 
stations) the train crosses Fore River, and stops at Portland. 


Portland and its Environs. 


Hotels. * Falmouth House, a fine structure on Middle St., $2 50-3 a day -, 
Pr<-h!e lb-use. United States Hotel. $2 -2.50 a day ; City, $2 a day. 

Horse-cars on Congress St. from Union Station to the Observatory every 15 
minutes ; from the Preble House, by Preble, Portland, and Green Sts., to Evergreen 
Cemetery, Peering; from Congress, by Spring, to Emery St. 

Heading-rooms. The Y. M. C. Association, coiner of Congress and Casco 
Sts. ; the Public Library, in the City Hall, open 10 A M to 9 P. M.; the Portland 
Fraternity, 4 Free St. ; Merchants’ Exchange, Exchange St. 

li ail roads. The Boston and Maine Itailroad Eastern and Western Division?, 
to Boston (Routes 37 and 38): Maine Central Railroad, to Augusta, Bangor, and 
Bar Harbor (Route 47); Maine Central, to Lewirton, Bangor, and St. John (Home 
48); Maine Central, to N. Conway and Upper Bartlett (Route 

39); cars of the Knox and Lincoln Railroad, for Rockland (Route 44): Portland and 
Rochester Railroad (see page 213); Grand Trunk Railway (see page 287). 

Steamships. The Allan Mail Line runs between Portland and Liverpool 
from November to May. and from May to November between Quebec and Liver¬ 
pool* Vessels of the International 

Steamship Co. run thrice weekly (Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, at 5 P. M.) 
to Eastport and St. John, connecting with steamers for Annapolis and Halifax. 
Portland to St. John, $5.00. Semi-weekly steamers leave Franklin Wharf for 
New York ; fare (including state-room), $5 00. 

The Portland Steam Packet Company’s steamers Tremont and John Brooks leave 
Franklin Wharf daily at 7 P. M for Boston ; fare, $1.00 (with state-room, $2.00). 
These vessels are large and commodious, and the trip affords pleasant views of the 


PORTLAND. 


Route 37. 


271 


harbors of Portland and Boston. The returning steamers leave India Wharf, Boston, 
at 7 P. M daily. The run from Portland to Boston takes 8 hours. Steamers do 
not leave on Sundays, except in July and August. Tri weekly steamers also for 
the Kennebec River. The steamer leaves Railroad Wharf 

semi-weekly for Mt. Desert and Machias (see page 302). connecting at Rockland with 
steamboats for the Penobscot-River landings The steamer Enterprise runs tri 
weekly to Boothbay, Pemaquid. nrd Damariscotfa (see Route 44). Harbor steam¬ 
boats run several times daily to Peak's and Cushing's Islands, etc.: and other regular 
lines ascend Casco B»y to Haro«well and other points. 

Portland was settled in 1632, on the Indian domain of Machigonne, and was 
named Casco Neck until it passed under the Mass, government in 1658, when it 
received the name of Falmouth, In 1676, the settlement was destroyed by the 
Indians, and 35 of its people were killed and captured. The desolated village 
was repopulated in 1678, and received an accession of Huguenot immigrants 
from La Rochelle, but the Indians soon rose again, and in 1689 killed 14 of the 
town-guard on Munjov’s Hill. In the same year, the town was menaced by a 
large hostile force, but was delivered by the opportune arrival of Major Church, a 
skilful partisan officer, with troops from the Plymouth Colony. Church marched 
out to the vicinity of the Deering estate, and boldly engaged the enemy, who was 
put to flight after a sharp skirmish in which the Plymouth men lost 11 killed and 
many wounded. After Church had left the town (1690), the three main defences 
were attacked by 5 )0 Frenchmen and Indians. One of them was evacuated and 
another was stormed Fort Loyal], the largest fort on the coast (then on the 
present site of the Grand Trunk station), was fairly garrisoned and mounted 8 
cannon. Having destroyed the village and most of its inhabitants, the fort was 
besieged for 5 days, and mined under the direction of the French officers. Ere 
the mine was sprung the fart surrendered, and the survivors of its garrison were 
taken to Quebec. Scores of the people were killed, and 100 were made prisoners. 
In 1703 the neighboring villages of Spurwink and Purpooduck were destroyed, 
and 55 people kdled or captured. After the Peace of Utrecht, in 1713, the place 
was again occupied and grew slowly, the population of 720 souls in 1753 having 
increased to 2.000 by 1764. October 18, 1775, this prosperous town was bom¬ 
barded by 4 British war-vessels (the Canseau, Cat. and others, under command of 
Capt. Mowatt, who had previously suffered some indignities here). Detachments 
of marines were landed, and between their incendiary labors and nine hours of 
cannonading from the fleet, 414 buildings were utterly destroyed, leaving but 100 
standing. The rebuilding of Falmouth was commenced in 1783 ; in 1785, the 
“Falmouth Gazette ” was started, “ to advocate the independence of Maine ” (then 
under the Mass, government); and in 17S6 a town was incorporated here, with 
2,000 inhabitants, under the name of Portland. In 1832 it became a city (popula¬ 
tion 13,000), and soon afterwards began the construction of great railway lines to 
the back country. An extensive foreign trade sprang up, principally with the 
West Indies, and the city grew rapidly in wealth and importance. On the night 
of July 4th, 1866, a disastrous tire swept away one half of the compact part of the 
city, causing a loss of § 6,250,000. 


Portland, the commercial metropolis of Maine (with 36,000 inhabitants 
and a valuation of $31,259,401), is situated on a high peninsula in the 
S. W. end of Casco Bay. Its harbor is deep and well sheltered, and 
defended by three powerful forts, while several large islands beyond afford 
favorite resorts in the summer season. The peninsula on which the city 
is built is 3 M. long, and at the centre is little over i M. wide. It is 
bounded by Portland Harbor and Fore River on the S. and W., and by 
Back Cove on the N. Bramhall’s Hill, on the W. of the peninsula, is 
J75 ft. high ; Munjoy’s Hill, on the E., is 1G1 ft.; and the central part 
of the city is 57 ft. above the water. The Western Promenade looks down 


272 Route 37. 


PORTLAND. 


on the rural environs from Bramhall’s Hill, and from this point Congress 
St. runs down the length of the peninsula to the Eastern Promenade on 
Munjoy’s Hill, from which fine views of the hay and islands may be ob¬ 
tained. Each of these promenades is 150 ft. wide, divided into sections, 
and planted with lines of trees. 

The City Hall is a large and imposing building of light Nova Scotia 
stone, surmounted by a singular dome. Passing from this point up 
Congress St., with Lincoln Park on the r., the Roman Catholic Bishop’s 
Palace is seen on the 1., and the large Cathedral of the Immaculate Con¬ 
ception. Beyond St. Luke’s Church (Epis.) on the 1., a large building 
occupied by a graded city school is passed, and alongside of it the old 
Eastern Cemetery is seen. 

Among those who are buried here are Commodore Preble and Captains Bur¬ 
roughs and Blythe. Edward Preble was born at Portland in 1701, and was an 
officer in the American Navy during the Revolution. He commanded the squad¬ 
ron which sailed to Tripoli in 1803, and humbled its piratical people by several 
bombardments of the city, at the same time averting the dangers of a war between 
the Emperor of Morocco and the United States. Burroughs and Blythe com¬ 
manded respectively the American war-vessel, the “ Enterprise,” and the British 
brig, the “ Boxer,” which fought off Pemaquid in 1813. After a sharp action of 
48 minutes, in which both captains were killed, the “ Boxer ” surrendered and was 
taken into Portland. 

Just beyond the cemetery is the observatory on Munjoy’s Hill, which 
should be ascended for the sake of its extensive * view (small fee to the 
keeper). To the S. W., on the heights beyond Fore River, is the fine 
castellated building of the State Iteform School, with the plains of Scar¬ 
borough and Saco beyond, and far down the coast is the blue cone of Mt. 
Agamenticus. Portland and its inner harbor lie to the S. and W., with 
Bramhall's Hill at the further end of the ridge. To the N. W. is the 
village of Gorham (Maine), over Back Cove and Deering’s Oaks, and far 
beyond, 80 M. distant, the White Mts. may be seen in clear weather. N. 
E. are the numerous verdant islands in the blue waters of Casco Bay, with 
the bending shores of Falmouth and Cumberland. The lighthouse on 
Seguin Island, at the mouth of the Kennebec, 25 M. distant, is easily 
seen by the aid of the telescope suspended from the roof, while on the 
E. is the outer harbor, with Peak’s and Cushing’s Islands, and the mas¬ 
sive fortifications. S. E. is Cape Elizabeth, with its summer hotels, and 
the Twin Sisters (Portland lighthouses). A short distance beyond the 
Observatory is the Eastern Promenade. The Marine Hospital, which 
may be seen from this point, is a fine building fronting on the Bay at 
Martin’s Point. 

The U. S. Custom House is an elegant granite building 


The inner hall, with its elaborate marble ornamentation, is 
worthy of a visit. A short distance N. E. of the Custom House are the 
























































































































ENVIRONS OF PORTLAND. Route 37. 2 73 

piers of the New York, Boston, and Liverpool lines of steamers, and the 

extensive terminal station of the Grand Trunk Railwav. 

v • 

The * Post Office is a beautiful structure of white Vermont marble, built 
in the mediaeval Italian architecture, with an elegant upper portico sup¬ 
ported by Corinthian columns. Though small, this is one of the richest 
and most pleasing of the national buildings in New England. In this 
vicinity are the stately buildings of the City Hall and the Falmouth Hotel, 
with many fine commercial buildings. Beyond the Mechanics’ Hall a 
succession of fine residences are seen stretching up the slopes of Bram- 
hall’s Hill, on streets so thickly lined with shade-trees as to have given 
to Portland the name of “the Forest City.” The trees in the central 
streets were destroyed during the great fire of 1866. 

State Street, lined with great elms and colonial mansions, crosses Long¬ 
fellow Square, with its bronze statue of Longfellow, and runs out to the 
lovely park of Dteriny's Oaks, 30 acres in area. The Public Library has 
40,000 volumes, in a beautiful stone building. 

The commercial facilities of Portland have been greatly increased by the con¬ 
struction of a marginal railway along the water-front of the city, with side-tracks 
running down the wharves. The imports in 1874 were $25,922,906; the*exports 
were $20,005,640. The tonnage of the port is 110,S30 tons. Portland has a lucra¬ 
tive trade with Great Britain ; but her chief commerce is with the West India 
Islands, vast amounts of shocks and sugar-barrels having been sent there, and 
repaid by return cargoes of sugar and molasses. 

. Here is the stately building of the Union Mutual Life Ins. Co. 
Longfellow's birthplace is at the coiner of Fore and Hancock Sts. A favorite drive 
is to Falmouth Foreside (5 M.), where summer-cottages and boarding-houses 
overlook Casco Bay. 

The city is supplied with water from Lake Sebago, 17 M. distant, which is 247 
ft. above tide-water, and is said to have the purest lake-water in the world. 20 
M. of pipes underlie the city and convey the water to all its parts. There are 
here 3 daily papers, 7 weeklies, and 3 monthlies. 

Evergreen Cemetery is 2V M. from Portland (by stage or railway), and has 
pleasant woodland grounds covering 177 acres. There is a fine Gothic monument 
of Caen stone over the remains of William Pitt Fessenden, U. S. Senator from 
1854 to 1869. 

Pox-tland was the birthplace of Henry W. Longfellow, the poet; N. P. Willis, 
the poet and traveller ; Sara P. Parton (Willis’s sister), who wrote popular essays 
under the pseudonym of “Fanny Fern”; Erastus and James Brooks, the New 
York journalists and politicians ; Rear-Admiral Alden, who was distinguished in 
the naval battles at Vera Cruz, New Orleans, and Mobile ; Commodore Preble, 
who commanded in the Tripolitan War; Capt. G. H. Preble, who fought in the 
Mexican and Secession wars ; John Neal, the poet and novelist; and Neal Dow, 
the reformer. 


Environs of Portland. 

Cape Elizabeth is S. of the harbor, and stretches its rugged cliffs into 
the ocean. The drives over this surf-beaten promontory are very pleasant 
during the summer, and extend to the lighthouses at the 

end of the cape, 9 M. from the city. Cape Cottage is 3 M. from 

Portland, and is a large and picturesque hotel, built of stone, and accom¬ 
modating 100 guests (frequent stages to the city). The scenery is fine, 
embracing the shoreless ocean on one hand and the entrance to the harbor 

12* R 


274 Route 37. 


ENVIRONS OF PORTLAND. 


on the other. 5 M. beyond this point is the Ocean House, a large hotel 
near a hard, sandy beach, with good facilities for surf-bathing. 10 M. 
from Portland is the Atlantic House, on Scarborough Beach. Portland 
Light is 3j AI. from the city, on a high bluff which commands broad sea- 
views. A steam-ferry runs from Custom House Wharf to South Portland 
village, and £ AI. from its pier is Fort Preble , a formidable work on a com¬ 
manding point. To the S. is the town of Cape Elizabeth, and 2| AI. from 
Portland is the fine building of the State Reform School. 

Steamers run several times daily (in summer) to the islands in Casco 
Bay. This is one of the pleasantest short marine excursions on the coast, 
and can be made in 3 - 4 hours, although it is better to go down on a fore¬ 
noon boat, dine at the Ottawa House, spend the afternoon on Cushing’s 
Island, and return on the afternoon boat. 

The steamer leaves the pier and passes into the harbor, with Fort 
Preble on the low point to the r., and the more powerful works of Forts 
Scammel and Gorges on islands in front. Beautiful retrospects are af¬ 
forded of Portland, rising in terraced lines along its hills. Casco Bay, 
over a small part of which the steamer passes, is one of the most pic¬ 
turesque of American bays, and some enthusiastic persons rank it next to 
the Italian Bay of Naples. It is popularly supposed to contain 365 
islands (like Lake Winnepesaukee), and its green archipelago abounds in 
good fishing-places. Boats of all sizes, with experienced captains, may 
be hired in Portland. Diamond Island, about 5 AI. from the city, is fre¬ 
quently visited by large parties, and has noble groves of old trees, with a 
bold, rocky shore opening occasionally in level strips of beach. Diamond, 
Pleasant, and Indian Coves are beautiful and sequestered inlets, bordered 
with beeches, maples, and oaks. Peak’s Island, 4 AI. from the city, is a 
popular summer-resort, whence fine views of the city with its harbor and 
defences, the curving coast of Cape Elizabeth, and the shoreless ocean, are 
enjoyed. It is 1 ^ X 1£ AI. in area, with over 300 inhabitants, and a long 
sea-fronting beach. There are 500 summer-campers every season; many 
summer-cottages, and these hotels: at Jones Landing, Union House, Bay- 
View House, on high ground, Oceanic, the largest hotel on the island, and 
Casco-Bay House, near Trefethen’s Landing; Innes; Valley View, Chap¬ 
man House, on high ground (100 guests)* 

* Cushing’s Island, 4 AI. from the city (steamers many times daily), 
is the outermost of the islands, facing the ocean. It covers 250 acres, and 
is composed of high bluffs. The view is beautiful, including the lovelv 
islets of Casco Bay, the level-horizoned ocean, the ship channel, the bold 
shores of Cape Elizabeth, the forts, Peak’s Island on the r., and in the 
remote N. W.. the White Alts. Sandy beaches for bathing, and rocks 
projecting in deep water, for fishing, lie along the shore. An embowered 
path leads along the ridge to the upper end of the island, passing through 


MEDFORD. — MALDEN. 


Route 38. 2 7 5 


cedar woods to the verge of the precipice of White Head, commanding 
tine views of the ocean, the bay, and the city. The * Ottawa House was 
rebuilt in 1887-88, and is a first-class modern hotel. 

Great Chebeague Island (Sunny side House) covers 2.000 acres, and is 
well populated. Little Chebeague (* Waldo House) is much smaller 
(steamers several times daily). 

Steamers run daily in summer 14 M. up Casco Bay, to Harpswell, a 
quiet old peninsular town rendered classic by Mrs. Stowe’s romance, “ The 
Pearl of Orr’s Island,” Whittier’s poem “ The Dead Ship of Harpswell,” 
and Kellogg’s “ Elm-Island Stories.” The Lawson, Harpswell, 
Alexander, and Merriconeag Houses ($8-10 a week) are at S. Harpswell. 
whence daily stages run N. to Brunswick, 15 M. (see page 300). 


38. Boston to Portland. 

By the Boston and Maine Railroad. — Boston to Portland, 115 M, ; fare $3.00. 

After leaving the terminal station on Haymarket Square, Boston, the 
line crosses the Charles River, passes over Prison Point, in Charlestown, 
stops before the crossings of the Fitchburg and the Eastern Railroads, 
and reaches Somerville station. On Winter Hill, in this town, the cap¬ 
tive army of Burgoyne was cantoned for many months. The city of 
Somerville was named in honor of Richard Somers, a brave naval officer, 
who was killed in the Tripolitan War. Leaving Charlestown Heights 
on the r., the line crosses the broad Mystic River, and reaches Wellington, 
whence a branch runs to Medford, a place of 11,000 inhabitants, once 
famous for rum-distilleries and ship-yards, and now containing the large 
Mystic Print Works. It has a very handsome library building, Grace 
Church, and other interesting objects. See the massive brick Cradock 
House on Ship St., built in 1634; Hobgoblin Hall, built in 1738 by Isaac 
Royal, an Antigua merchant; and the Simpson House, built in 1750 with 
bricks from Germany. Tufts College (see page 188). 

Malden (Evelyn House) is a manufacturing citv of 23,000 inhabitants. 
In the pld parsonage, built near Bell Hock in 1710, was born (in 1788) 
Adoniram Judson, tlie apostle of Burimih. The same house was the birth¬ 
place of Cyrus and Darius Cobb. High Peak, or Nanepashemet’s Peak, 
near Maplewood, and the site of the ancient Indian fortress, commands a 
noble view. The adjacent hills were likened by President Dwight to “the 
sweeping flourishes of a graceful penman,” and run off on the W. into the 
Middlesex Fells (see page 180). George L. Brown, the celebrated artist, 
“the American Claude Lorraine,” lived in Malden. 

Station, Wyoming, the seat of immense rubber-shoe works, and 2 M. 
from Spot Pond. Melrose is a lovely suburban village of 0,000 inhabi¬ 
tants, with 6 churches, metropolitan conveniences, and cultivated society, 
amid picturesque rocky hills. Stonekam. is 2 M. by horse-cars from Stone- 
ham (see page 180). The main line next passes Greenwood; then runs 
along Crystal Lake (on the 1.), and stops at Wakefield Junction, whence 


276 Route 38. WAKEFIELD TO NEWBURYPORT. 


a branch line diverges to the E., reaching Salem by way of Lynn field 
and Peabody. 


Wakefield to Newburyport. 

A branch railroad runs from Wakefield Junction to Newburyport in 30 
M. Leaving the elegant mansion and grounds of Cyrus Wakefield, and 
Wakefield Hall, his princely gift to the town, on the 1., and the extensive 
rattan-works on the r., the branch line sopn crosses the Saugus River, and 
enters Essex County. Stations, Lynnfield Centre, W. Danvers (where 
the Salem and Lowell Railroad is crossed), and Danvers. The latter is an 
ancient town, which was settled before the middle of the 17th century. 
The witchcraft delusion arose here in 1692, and in 1774 a strong British 
force was cantoned on Danvers Plains, in order to overawe Essex County. 
The town is now dependent on large shoe manufactories, with carpet- 
works and a rolling-mill. The train soon crosses the Salem and Lawrence 
Railroad, and runs N. through the thinly settled towns of Central Essex. 
Station, Topsfield (Topsfield House), settled in 1639, on the scanty in¬ 
tervales along the Ipswich River. Boxford, a sterile town, was incor- ' 
porated in 1686, and has two box-factories. Station, Georgetown (Pen- 
tucket House), a bright and busy village E. of the railroad, with consid¬ 
erable manufactories of boots, shoes, and carriages. George Peabody, 
the eminent philanthropist, was employed in this town in his younger 
days (1812-13), and evinced his pleasant memories of it by presenting to 
Georgetown a tine public library and fund. The Memorial Church is a 
monument of his filial regard. S. W. of the village is Bald Pate. The 
Baldpate is a modernized colonial mansion used as a summer-hotel, on this 
far-viewing highest hill of Essex. A branch railroad runs from George¬ 
town through Groveland and Bradford, to Haverhill (7^ M.). 

The train crosses the town of Newbury, and in 9 M. from Georgetown 
reaches Newburyport (see page 258). 

Wakefield was settled in 1639, and was for over two centuries known as 
S. Reading. In 1868 it assumed its present name in honor of a wealthy 
citizen who had greatly benefited it. Cyrus Wakefield introduced the 
rattan-working industry into this country, and had large factories here. 
Wakefield has 7,000 inhabitants, 3 papers, 6 churches, a public-library, a 
costly town-hall, a memorial hall (to 47 dead soldiers), and shoe-factories. 

Passing Lake Quanapowitt (on the r.), the train reaches Reading , 
devoted to the manufacture of shoes, cabinet-ware, organs, &c. Stations, 
Wilmington, Wilmington Junction (where the Salem and Lowell Railroad 
crosses the present route), Ballardvale (with factories making files, Bris¬ 
tol polish, and flannels), and Andover ( Elm, House; Mansion House). 
This ancient academic town was settled about 1643, on the Indian domain 
of Cochichewick, which was bought from the natives for $26.64 and a 



ANDOVER. 


Route 38. 277 


coat. Andover has some active manufactures, but is chiefly famed for its 
schools. The Punchard Higli School is a local institution of high stand¬ 
ing. Phillips Academy occupies a fine building on the hill, and is of wide 
reputation. It was endowed by the Phillips family, in 1778, with $ 85,000 
and considerable landed estates, and has since occupied a prominent posi¬ 
tion. The Abbot Female Seminary is an old and famous school for young 
ladies. The Theological Seminary of the Congregational Church was 
founded about 1808, and soon after received liberal endowments ($120,000 
from Samuel Abbot and $250,000 from William Bartlett). This insti¬ 
tution has long been “ the school of the prophets” for the sect to which 
it belongs, and has prepared its ablest divines for their work. Up to 1871 
it had graduated 2,491 men. It has 9 professors and 50 students. Back of 
the chapel stood the old stone house in which “ Uncle Tom’s Cabin ” was 
written. It was burned in 1887. Near by is the Phelps house, whence issued 
“ Gates Ajar ” and other famous books.. Its buildings are very plain, caus¬ 
ing the visitor to wonder “ if orthodox angels have not lifted up old Har¬ 
vard and Massachusetts Halls, and carried them by night from Cambridge 
to Andover Hill.” But the situation is one of extreme beauty, and the 
grounds are quiet and abounding in trees. In front of the line of build¬ 
ings is a long walk shaded by four lines of trees, near whose upper end is 
Brechin Hall, a handsome building of local stone, which contains a library 
of about 50,000 volumes, and a few curiosities. A copy of Eliot’s Indian 
Bible, a superb copy of the Codex Sinaiticus, and various trophies from 
the mission fields are to be seen here. 

John and Peter Smith came to Andover from Brechin, in Scotland, many years 
ago, and amassed large fortunes. They built and gave Brechin Hall to the 
Seminary, and erected noble schools in their native Brechin, on a hill which they 
caused to be named Andover Hill. 

S. of the grounds, and near the Mansion House, is the old home of 
Leonard Woods, D. D., an eminent Calvinistic theologian, who taught in 
the Seminary, 1808- 46, meanwhile holding controversies with the Uni¬ 
tarians on one side, the Episcopalians on the other, and the Baptists and 
Swedenborgi.ms. The Print.ery and several dormitory buildings are on 
streets near by. A beautiful chapel has lately been built. 

Andover was so named because its first settlers came from Andover in 
England. It supported 100 men in the Continental Army. Elizabeth 
Stuart Phelps, authoress of “ Sunny Side,” &c., and her daughter, E. S. 
Phelps, authoress of “ Gates Ajar,” &c., were bom here. 

There are pretty ponds in Andover, and the valley of the Shawshine 
River has some pleasant rural scenery, while the view from Andover Hill 
(at sunset especially) is highly praised. Many summer visitors stay here, 
partly attracted by the fine society. 

After leaving Andover, the train arrives at S. Lawrence, opposite the 
city of Lawrence. Some of the through trains cross the river and enter 


278 Route 33. 


LAWRENCE. 


the city, while others do not, but proceed down the r. bank of the river to 
Haverhill. It is but a few minutes’ walk over the Merrimac River, while 
from the bridge the traveller gets views of the great dam (on the 1.) and of 
the long line of factories (on the r. and front). 

Lawrence. 

Hotels.— * Franklin House, a small but elegantly appointed hotel opposite 
the R. R. Station, §2.50 a day ; Essex Hotel. 

This city was founded by the Essex Company in 1844, and contained, 
in 1845, 100, and in 1847, 3,000 inhabitants. A powerful stone dam was 
built across the river, giving a fall of 28 ft. and a water-power equal to 
10,000 horse-power. A canal 1 M. long carries the water along the line 
of mills, parallel with the river and 400 ft. from it, and another long canal 
is cut on the S. bank. The city water-supply was recently introduced, 
and cost $1,240,000. The Merrimac River is 1,000 ft. wide here, and 
the fall over the dam has a beautiful effect. The city has 2 banks and 2 
savings-banks, 56 schools, a library, and a park on Prospect Hill. S. 
Lawrence is a prosperous manufacturing suburb across the Merrimac. 

The chief manufactories are the immense and imposing Pacific Mills, with 
140,000 spindles, 4,000 looms, §2,500,000 capital, and 2,400 female and 1,200 male 
operatives, making calicoes, lawns, and dress-goods ; the Washington Mills, 
62,000 spindles, 1,300 looms, and 2,600 operatives, making cotton and woollen 
goods, broadcloths, doeskins, shawls, and cambrics ; the Atlantic Cotton Mills, 
employing 1,400 persons ; the Everett Mills, 1,000 operatives, making cotton and 
woollen goods; the Pemberton Mills, 800 operatives; the Arlington Woollen 
Mills; the Lawrence Duck Co., Russell Paper Co., Lawrence File and Spindle 
Works, Lawrence Lumber Co., etc. 

Lawrence (45,000 inhabitants) is one of the three capitals of Essex Co., 
and is the most beautiful of the manufacturing cities of New England. 
The mills are separated from the city by the canal, and their great depen¬ 
dent boarding-houses are isolated by a wide green. The city has 18 
churches, 5 Masonic lodges, 4 lodges of Odd Fellows, 3 weekly and 2 daily 
newspapers. The Common is a fine green square, with abundance of 
trees, having on its N. side the handsome Oliver High School and the 
Central Cong. Church. On the E. is the 1st Unitarian and Grace Church 
(Epis.), while on the S. are the elegant city and county buildings. In the 
base of the tower of the City Hall are two huge cannon-balls which were 
fired from the iron-clad fleet on the rebellious city of Charleston. The 
“ Lawrence American ” is the leading daily paper of Essex Co. The 
city has good public libraries, several of which pertain to the cot¬ 
ton-mills. The valuation of Lawrence in the year 1875 was $ 23,000,000. 
On a street leading W. from the Common is the stately and elegant 
church of St. Mary (Roman Catholic) in the purest of the simpler 
forms of Gothic architecture. This church was six years in building, and 
is of a handsome gray stone, with interior arches, columns, and a lofty 
clere-story and spire of the same material. In its vicinity are several 


HAVERHILL. Route 38. 279 

Catholic institutions, which are powerful and highly beneficent in their 
workings among the factory populations. 

The city was named from Abbot Lawrence, a wealthy and philanthropic Boston 
merchant, who was one of its founders. He was a member of Congress for 5 years. 
Minister to England 1849-1852, and endowed the Lawrence Scientific School (at 
Cambridge) with §100,000. His son was Consul-General to Italy, 1862 - 9, and his 
brother Amos was eminent for his generosity, having given §4-500,000 for chari¬ 
table, educational, and religious works. 

One of the most terrible accidents in American history took place here Jan. 10, 
1860, when the Pemberton Mills fell, on account of thin walls and insufficient sup¬ 
ports, and caught fire soon after, burning alive many who had been caught in the 
falling ruins. 525 persons were killed and wounded on that dreadful day. 

The Lowell and Lawrence Division of the Boston and Lowell R. R. runs from 
Lawrence to Lowell, through the towns of Andover and Tewksbury. ‘There are 4 
trains each way daily, in 40 minutes. Distance, 13 M. ; fare, 40 c. 

The. Manchester and Lawrence R. R. runs N. W. to Manchester, N. H., in 70 
minutes. Distance, 26 M. ; fare, 80 c. This line passes through Methuen, a flourish¬ 
ing highland village near the Falls of the Spigot River. About 3 M. beyond Law¬ 
rence the train enters New Hampshire; passes tSaiem , and reaches Windham 
(whence stages to Windham. 2^ M , aud Pelham), where the railway from Worces¬ 
ter to Rochester is crossed. Stages run from Derry to Chester, 8 M. : and semi¬ 
daily 3 M. S. W. to Londonderry, whose farm boarding-houses are occupied by 
drinkers of the famous I ondouderry Lithia water, an antidote for uric-acid poison¬ 
ing and a dissolver of calenli. 1,000 car-loads are shipped from Nashua yearly. 

citations, Wilson’s and Londonderry. This town 

was settled in 1719 by a colony of Scotch Presbyterians, from Ulster Co., Ireland, 
and was named for the old country Londonderry, in whose long and terrible siege 
several of the immigrants had been engaged. Before their settlement the district 
was called Nutfield, from the abundance of its nut-trees. On the first day of their 
arrival, the settlers collected under a great oak-tree, and heard a sermon from 
their pastor, after which they began to build their cabins. Although on the 
remote frontiers, the town was never molested by the Franco-Indian marauders, 
commands to that effect having been issued by the Marquis de Vaudreuil, Gov.- 
Gen. of Canada, who had been a classmate at college with McGregore, the Lon¬ 
donderry pastor. The first American resistance to Gen. Gage’s troops was when 
a detachment marched from Boston to this place (46 M.) and captured several 
deserters from the British line regiments. The townsmen rose, and pursued the 
troops, and forced them to release their prisoners, who became residents of Lon¬ 
donderry. Colonels Reed. MeCleary, and Gregg, and Gen. Stark (victor at Ben¬ 
nington), all of the Continental Army, were bom here. The Scotch-Irish colo¬ 
nists introduced the potato, the foot-wheel, and the loom into New England. 6 
M. beyond Londonderry Station the line enters the city of Manchester (see 
Route 29). 

The Laicrence Branch (of the Eastern R. R.) runs from Lawrences. E. to Salem. 

The main line of the Boston and Maine Railroad follows (beyond Law¬ 
rence) the r. bank of the Merrimac River for 10 M., to the city of Haver¬ 
hill, passing N. Andover and Bradford. 

Haverhill (Eagle'House, $7-14 a week) is a handsome city, built on 
hills which slope down to the Merrimac River, which is navigable to this 
point (18 miles from the sea). In 1830 it had 3,912 inhabitants, and now 
has 28,000. The principal business of the place is the manufacture of 
shoes, in which it is second only to Lynn. In 1869, 6,000 persons were 
here employed in this industry, and over 5,000,000 pairs of shoes were 
made. Woollens, hats, and clothing are also manufactured. 

Haverhill has 19 churches, two or three of which are quite handsome. 
The Public Library has a costly building, adorned and frescoed, with 
20,000 volumes and a statuary hall. The city has 5 newspapers and a 
Masonic temple. 


280 Route 38. 


EXETER. 


The new City Hall (on Main St.) is an imposing building, well adapted 
for the civic offices. From Golden Hill there is a fine view of the river 
and city, and of the ancient village of Bradford (famed for its academy 
for girls, now occupying extensive buildings on a far-viewing hill. This 
academy was founded in 1803, and was a nursery of missionaries’ wives, — 
Harriet Newell, Mrs. Judson, and others). 1 M. N. E. of Haverhill, and 
in its rapidly extending suburbs, is the pretty Lake Kenoza, surrounded 
by hills. A neat .stone club-house has been built cn its banks by some 
Haverhill gentlemen. This lake was named, and has been written of, by 
the poet Whittier, whose birthplace (1807) near its shore (the scene of 
“Snowbound”) still stands. 

A fine Soldiers' Monument , with a statue of a U. S. soldier, stands on Main 
St. (for 184 dead). Also a bronze statue, with bas-reliefs, of Mrs. JJustan. 

Gen. Moses Hazen, born at Haverhill in 1733. was an officer in the campaigns 
of Crown Point, Louisburg, and Quebec, and commanded the 2d Canadian Con¬ 
tinental Reg. (“ Congress’s Own ”) from 1776 to 1781. He then moved to Ver¬ 
mont, and one of his descendants was Gen. W. B. Hazen, who long fought the 
Comanches, then commanded a brigade (1861 -2) at the battles of Shiloh, Corinth, 
Stone River, Chickamauga, and Mission Ridge. In Sherman’s march to the sea, 
he commanded the 2d division of the 15th corps, with which he stormed Fort 
McAllister, at Savannah, Dec. 13, 1864 

Haverhill was settled in 1641, on the Indian domain of Pentucket, by a colony 
led by Rev. John Ward, who came from Haverhill in England. The village church 
was scientifically fortified, but the town lost many men during Queen Anne’s War. 
In 1698 the Indians took Mrs. Hannah Duston, with her nurse and her child (6 
days old). The latter they murdered, and, after a long march through the forests, 
told the women that they were to be forced to run the gauntlet when they reached 
the village. That night Mrs. Duston, with the nurse and a young English boy, 
arose silently and killed 10 of the 12 Indians, scalped them, and dropped down 
the river in a bark canoe to Haverhill. In 1708 the village was attacked by 250 
French and Indians, and 40 of its people were killed and captured. 

The river-road to Newburyport runs by the side of the Merrimac, through a 
picturesque succession of hill-towns. Daily stages leave Haverhill for Newbury¬ 
port, W. Amesbury, and W. Newbury. 

A railroad runs from Haverhill to Newburyport via Georgetown, in 16 M. 5 
trains daily are run each way, in 40-60 minutes. 

After leaving Haverhill the main line runs N. into New Hampshire. 
Stations, Atkinson (stage to Hampstead), Plaistmv (stages to Sandown 
and Danville), Newton, and E. Kingston (stage to Kingston). These are all 
quiet farming towns in Rockingham County, N. H. Station, Exeter (good 
restaurant in the station; Gorham Hall; American House), a pretty 
village of 4,000 inhabitants, at the head of navigation on Exeter River. 
Exeter was founded by Rev. John Wheelwright, who had been banished 
from Mass, for the heresy of Antinomianism. He bought this land in the 
wilderness from the Indians, but when it was annexed to Essex Co., 
Mass., in 1642, he was obliged to go into more distant exile. The In¬ 
dians about Squamscott Falls migrated to the vicinity of Troy (on the 
Hudson) in 1672, but other and fiercer tribes menaced the village, and 
nearly 40 of the people were killed and captured during the later Indian 
wars. 38 men of Exeter died in the Continental Army. In 1781, Hon. 


EXETER. 


Route SS. 281 


John Phillips founded Phillips Academy, and endowed it with $ 134,000. 
Benjamin Abbot, LL. D., was preceptor of the Academy from 1788 to 
1838, and Dr. Gideon L. Soule was preceptor from 1838 to 1873. 

Among the distinguished men who have been prepared for college here are John 
Pickering, the jurist and philologist; Abiel Abbot; J. S. Buckminster, the popu¬ 
lar divine ; James Walker, the Unitarian theologian ; Nathan Lord, D. D., Presi¬ 
dent of Dartmouth College, 1828-63 ; A. H. Everett, LL. D., the accomplished 
diplomatist (to Belgium, Spain, and China); Nathan Hale, LL. D., the journalist; 
Leverett Saltonstall, LL. D. ; J. G. Cogswell, LL. D., of the Astor Library; 
T. W. Dorr, the R. I. insurgent Governor ; J. P. Cushing, President of Ilampden- 
Sidney College, Va., 1821-35; Theodore Lyman, the philanthropist; Alpheus 
Felch, Senator from Michigan, 1847-53; Charles Paine, of Vt. ; John P. Hale, 
one of the first antislavery senators (from N. H., 1847-53, and 1855-65); the 
eminent historians, Richard Hildreth, Jared Sparks, and George Bancroft; Ed¬ 
ward Everett, the statesman and orator ; Daniel Webster ; and Lewis Cass, who 
was born at Exeter in 1782. An officer through the War of 1812, Governor of 
Michigan, 1813-31, Secretary of War under Jackson, Minister to France, 1836- 
42, Cass came near being elected President of the U. S. in 1848. receiving 137 elec¬ 
toral votes to 163 given for Gen. Taylor. He was U. S. Senator, 1845-8, and 
1851-7, and from 1857 to Dec., 1860, was Secretary of State. His policy was 
steadily proslavery, but he favored the national government during the Rebellion. 
He died in 1866, at Detroit, where 54 years before he had been made prisoner by 
the British (with the whole Army of the Northwest) while a captain in the 3d 
Ohio Regiment. 

Exeter is a beautiful and elm-shaded village in a level farming-town, 
and has the county buildings, 8 churches, 3 banks, a newspaper, a high- 
school, several prosperous factories (cottons, woollens, paper, brass, 
machinery, etc.), and many handsome residences. It is 10 M. from Rye 
Beach, and 9 from Hampton. Phillips Academy has neat modern build¬ 
ings, on a campus adorned with venerable elms. It has about 200 stu¬ 
dents, and has educated over 4,000. The Robinson Female Seminary is also 
in the village, and has a stately building and a rich endowment, provided 
by Wm. Robinson. It was opened in 1869, and has about 240 students. 

Stages run from Exeter to Kensington and Amesbury ; to Brentwood ; and to 
Hampton beach (see •' "V 37) semi-daib in summer and September. 

Stations, S. Newmarket, and Newmarket Junction (restaurant), where 
the Concord and Portsmouth track crosses the present route. New¬ 
market ( Newmarket House) is a village containing 

cotton and lumber-mills. 

Tri-weekly stages run from Newmarket to Lee, Nottingham, Northwood, 
Epsom, Chichester, and Concord 

Station, Durham, the old Oyster River settlement, many of whose people 
were killed in various Indian raids during King Philip’s War. In 1695, 
the village was carried by assault, though defended by 12 garrison-houses, 
and nearly 100 of its people were killed or captured. The town is now 
known for its excellent hay-crops, which are obtained from the deep 
argillaceous loam along the Oyster River. Over 1,000 tons are exported 
annually. Stations, Madbury, and Dover ( American House ; New IIamp- 


282 Route SS. 


DOVER. 


shire House), a busy city at the lower falls of the Cocheco River. Dover 
has over 12,U0U inhabitants, 3 banks (3 savings-banks), 10 churches, 3 
weekly papers, and extensive manufactories. The Cocheco Mills employ 

I, 000 hands and 50,000 spindles, with a capital of $ 1,300,000, and make 

II, 000,000 yards of cotton cloths yearly. Horse-cars (6 cents) run 2J M. 
from the Sawyer woollen mills to Garrison Hill, the site of a colonial 
fortress; from the tower on the hill, 348 ft. above tide-water, one can see 
the White Mts., Agamenticus, the Shoals, and the open sea- 

Dover is the oldest place in the State, having been settled in the spring of 
1623, on the point of land at the confluence of the Newichawannick and Bel¬ 
lamy Rivers (4 M. S. E. of the city). The pioneer colony was composed of Epis¬ 
copalians sent over by the Laconia Company, and they had much trouble with 
the Mass. Puritans. In 1641, Dover was annexed by Mass., and in 1679 was re¬ 
turned to N. H. The people had a man to “ beate the drumme on Lord’s days to 
give notice for the time of meeting ” until 1665, when they built “a Terrett upon 
the meitting house for to hang the Bell.” In 1657 they “chose by voet a Scoell- 
master,” and in 1653 they built the meeting-house “ 40 foote longe and 26 foote 
wide.” Major Walderne settled on the present site of the city, and built a strong 
garrison-house. Here he was visited in 1676, during a time when peace reigned 
in this region, by 400 Indians, two companies of troops being with him. He won 
the confidence of the Indians, and arranged a sham-fight between them and the 
colonial soldiers. When their guns were discharged the troops rushed in and dis¬ 
armed them, after which 200 were sent to Boston as prisoners, Several of these 
were executed on Boston Common, and the remainder were sold into slavery in 
the West Indies. 13 years later a powerful Indian force seized Dover by night, 
and destroyed 4 garrisons, killing 23 and capturing 29 persons. Walderne, then 
74 years old, and commander of the*forces of N. II., they captured, and placed 
in a chair on a table within his own hall, where they slowly slashed him to death. 
The town was the object of other disastrous attacks during the Indian wars, but 
was never abandoned by its intrepid people. 

Tri-weekly stages run from Dover to Barrington and Strafford (Bow Lake 
House), near Bow Lake (which covers 1,625 acres), and the Blue Hills. 

Trover to Portsmouth, by railway (see page 418), 

Dover to Lake Winnepesaukee. 

The Dover and Winnepcsaukee Railroad runs to Alton Bay (2S£ M). Stations, 
Pickering’s, and Gonic (with stages running to Barrington, Strafford, and Barn- 
stead). At Rochester (see page 213) connections are made with the Portsmouth, 
Great Falls, and Comvay R. R., and with the Portland and Rochester It. R. 
Stations, Place’s, and Farmington (Elm House), a shoe-manufacturing village near 
the Blue Hills, or Frost Mts. From the loftiest of these hills, Mt. Monadnock, 
the White Mts., and the ocean may be seen on a clear day. 

Henry Wilson was born at Farmington in 1812. He was educated with money 
earned by his own labor, and settled at Natick (Mass.) in 1838, as a shoemaker. 
Declaring himself an uncompromising foe of negro slavery, his abilities soon won 
him honorable fame in the State politics, and after rising from one office to an¬ 
other for 15 years, lie was chosen U. S. Senator in 1855. In 1872 lie was elected 
Vice-President of the U. S. His most distinguished senatorial labors were in 
connection with the antislavery movement and the Kansas troubles, emancipa¬ 
tion, reconstruction, and the conduct of the war. 

After leaving Farmington the line passes three rural stations, and stops at Al¬ 
ton Bay. on Lake Winnepesaukee. (See page 218), 


OLD ORCHARD BEACH. 


Route 38. 283 


The fine iron steamer, “ Mt. Washington,” leaves Alton Bay on arrival of the 
trains, twice daily (in summer), for the villages on the lake. The distance to 
Centre Harbor is 30 M. (see Route 32). 

The first station beyond Dover, on the main line, is Rollinsford, whence 
a branch track runs (in 3 M.) to the factories at Great Falls. Station, 
Salmon Falls ( Jones House), the seat of two cotton-mills. 

After passing N. Berwick (where the Eastern R. R. is crossed), Wells is 
reached. The station is 1 M. from Wells Beach (see p. 2(18), one of the best 
of the Maine beaches. From Kennebunk a branch railroad runs 5 M E. to 
Kennebunkport ( Parker House, $15-20 a week), a quaint old village, 
1 M. from the mouth of the Mousam River. £ M. out, on Cape Arundel, 
is the great * Ocean-Bluff House (300 guests), with admirable sea-views 
and facilities for bathing, boating, and fishing. In and near the vi'lage 
are the Glen, Riverside, Beach, Granite-State, Cliff, Seaside, Sea-View, 
and other hotels ($7-15 a week). The long beaches and sea-repelling 
cliffs of this promontory form noble combinations of scenery, and a 
summer-village has been erected here. The cool air and facilities for 
boating, bathing, and fishing have made this a favorite resort. The 
train crosses the Saco River between the busy manufacturing cities of 
Biddeford and Saco (see page 2G0), and bears away for 4 M. farther 
to Old-Orchard Beach. 

* Old-Orchard House, 460 guests, S14-25 a week, — telegraph, band, and ball 
and reading rooms in the house ; * Ocean House, near the former, and of great 
extent; Hotel Fiske , Seashore House, 300 guests each, $14-20 a week ; Law¬ 
rence (# 9 - 15) ; Gorham, Alcline ($ 12 - 16), Belmont ($ 15 - 30), Irving (#7-10), 
Revere ($ 14), Everett ($ 10 -18), 100-150 guests each ; Montreal, Cleaves, Lin- 
wood , Intjleside, Central Park, Atlantic. 50 guests each ; and many smaller houses. 
A branch railway, with observation-cars, rum along the beach, from Old Orchard 
Junction, on the Eastern Division Railroad, to Ferry Reach( Bay- View House), and 
Camp Ellis, at the mouth of the Saco River, where it connects with the steamboat 
for Biddeford and Biddeford Pool (see page 269). 

The Boston & Maine track runs between the great hotels and the water, 
and the station is very commodiouslv situated. This beach, which lias 
been called the finest In New England, extends from the Saco River to 
Pine Point, at the mouth of Scarborough River, a distance of 10 M., with 
a breadth (at low water) of 300 ft. The sand is very hard and smooth, and 
affords an admirable drive-wav, while from the absence of undertow the 
surf-bathing is perfectly safe. * About 2 M. distant, on Foxwell’s Brook, is 
a picturesque waterfall' 60 ft. high. The beach derives its name from an 
ancient orchard of apple-trees, the last of which died before the Revolu¬ 
tion. Ocean Park ( Ocean-Park House; Granite-State; BUlow) is a Free 
Baptist camp-meeting ground, S. of the hotels (near Camp-meeting station). 
Ferry Beach (B >y View-House , $ 10-20 a week) is 2 M. S. of the hotels, 
with large pine-groves, cottages, etc. 

Beyond Old Orchard is Pine-Point station, £ M. from Pine-Point Eeach 
{Meredith House; Pine-Point). ' 

M. from Old Orchard is Scarborough station, 2 M. (by stages) from 
Scarborough Beach, and 4 M. from Prout’s Neck (see page 270). The 
train now runs over Cape Elizabeth, crosses Fore River on a long and 
costly bridge, and enters Portland. 


-Si Route 30. 


LAKE SEBAGO. 


39. Portland to the White Mountains. 

Stations.—Portland to Cumberland Mills, 6: S. Windham, 11: White Rock, 
14 (whence daily stage to N. Windham) ; Seb >go Lake, 17 (daily stages to Standish, 
Limington, etc.); Steep Falls, 25 (daily stage to Liuiingtou, Sebago, and Naples); 
Baldwin, 32 (daily stage to Cornish, Porter, Kezar Falls, and Freedom); v\. Bald¬ 
win, 34; Bridgton Junction; Hiram, 36; Brownfield. 43; Frveburg, 49; Conway 
Centre, 55. N. Conway, 60; Glen Stati >n, 66; Upper Bartlett, 72; Bemis, 78; 
Crawford House, 87 ; Fabyan, 91; Twin .Mountain, 96; Bethlenem Junction, 101; 
Whitefield, 106; Lunenburg, ill 

The train leaves the union station in Portland under Bramhall Hill, and 
passes out to Westbrook (in a town of about 7,000 inhabitants), with 
several villages in which are manufactured cotton cloths, twine, wire, 
and iron goods, with large quantities of paper. Immense quantities 
of canned goods are prepared here, and the total manufactures of West¬ 
brook amount to $ 3,500,000 yearly. Station, S. Windham, in a town 
which was settled in 1737 and guarded by a Mass. fort. The Oriental 
Powder Works are located here, and the Mallison Falls on the Presump- 
scott River are S. of the village. Stations, White Rock, and Sebago 
Lake, whence steamers leave for Harrison. 

Lake Sebago 

is 14 M. long by 11 M. wide, and has a depth, in some parts, of 400 ft. 
6 towns are on its .shores, and others are located on the connecting lakes 
to the N. The steamers leave Pavilion Bay (at Lake Sebago station) and 
soon pass (on the r.) Indian Island, and Frye’s Island, with 1,000 acres of 
forest. When the broader part of the lake is gained, “to the N. E., 
Rattlesnake Mt. is seen ; and in the same direction, near the lake, is the 
boyhood home of Nathaniel Hawthorne. We also pass on our r. the 14 
Dingley Islands. The scenery on the W. is wilder and more rugged. 
Saddleback Mt., in Baldwin, is plainly visible, from which the eye roams 
N. E., beyond the Great Bay, over the Sebago hills and farms and 
forests. Still farther N. is Peaked Mt., beyond which the view extends 
N. to Mt. Kiarsarge (Pequawket), so blue and cold in the hazy distance, 
while the White Hills may be distinctly seen if the day is tolerably clear.” 
The passage across Sebago (“ a stretch of water”) occupies one hour, after 
which the steamer enters the rapid and devious Songo River. “ It is but 
24 M., as the crow flies, to the head of the river, and yet we must sail 6 M. 
and make 27 turns.” Picturesque contrasts of farm and forest, granite 
ledge and intervale, make the voyage on these narrow waters pleasant and 
novel. 5 M. from Sebago the steamer enters a lock at the confluence of 
Crooked or Pequawket River, which rises about 35 M. N. in the town of 
Albany. After rising several feet in the lock, the steamer passes N. into 
the Bay of Naples, near the head of which is Naples, a small 


FRYEBURG. 


Route 39. 285 


village in a farming town. Before stopping at this place, the steamer 
passes through a drawbridge, and, after leaving it, it steams out on Long 
Lake. This is a river-like expanse of water 12-14 M. long and less than 
2 M. wide. 9 M. from Naples the boat stops at Bridgton, whence a stage 
runs 1 M. W. to Bridgton Centre (Bridgton House ; Cumberland, House). 
This is an important manufacturing village, with a weekly paper, a 
savings-bank, and three churches, in a town originally called Pondicherry, 
from the abundance of small ponds and wild cherries found there. This 
village has become somewhat of a summer resort in a quiet way, from its 
vicinity to the lake and to picturesque hill-scenery. The next stopping- 
place on the lake is N. Bridgton (Lake House). 

To the N. is Waterford, the birthplace of Artemas Ward, Major Jack 
Downing, and Cyrus Hamlin, a very picturesque region of lakes and 
mountains, with the Waterford House, Pine-Grove House, Bear-Mt. House, 
and other summer-resorts, and the Maine Hygienic Institute. Stages hence 
daily to Harrison, Bridgton, and Norway (10 M.). Harrison (Elm House ; 
is the end of the steamboat-route. 

The Bridgton and Saco River R. R. is a new narrow-gauge route frorr 
Bridgton Junction, beyond W. Baldwin to Bridg 

ton (16 M.; 1 hr.). 

After leaving the Lake Sebago Station, the train passes the stations 
Richville and Steep Falls, in the town of Standish, which was granted tr 
and settled by veterans of the Louisburg campaigns, and named after the 
Pilgrim caj tain. Beyond Steep Falls, the line follows the valley of the 
Saco, and passes through the town of Baldwin (stations, Baldwin and W. 
Baldwin). The Great Falls of the Saco are seen from the train beyond 
W. Baldwin, near which the Ossipee River meets the Saco. The river 
falls 72 ft. in several successive pitches. The train now enters the town 
of Hiram, on narrow intervales along the Saco, and stops at Hiram Bridge 
(Mt. Cutler House). As the train crosses the old pine-plains of Hiram 
and enters Brownfield, occasional glimpses are caught of Mt. Pleasant, a 
long, isolated ridge, over 2,000 ft. high, commanding a noble view of 
the White Mts. anil the lake-country of W. Maine. On its crest is the 
Mt.-Pleasant House (75 guests; $ 12 a week), a commodious hotel reached 
by stage from Bridgton (10 M.). The principal view is to the N. W. along 
the clustering peaks of the White Mts. Station, Brownfield (Uberty 
House), whose farm-houses admit many summer visitors, Burnt Meadow 
ad Frost Mts. being the principal objects of interest. Stages leave daily 
for Denmark. 

The plains along the river grow wider and more productive, as the 
train passes on to Fryeburg (Fnjeburg House), a pretty village “on a 
broad, level plain, slightly elevated above the intervales of the Saco, 
which encloses it in one of its huge folds.” Many summer visitors rest 
at the comfortable, old hotel, while others are quartered in the boarding- 


28G Route 39. 


FRYEBURG. 


houses which are found in the village. The intervales of Fryeburg are 
noted for their richness and beauty, and contain nearly 10,000 acres, which 
are annually overflowed and fertilized by the Saco. 


There are several thousand acres of forest in the 
town and it is claimed that Fryeburg has more standing timber now than 
it had 40 years ago. The principal points for excursions are Stark’s Hill 
(500 ft. high), Jockey Cap, and Fine Hill, eminences near the village, which 
command panoramic views of the distant White Mts. and of C'hocorua. 
Mt. Pleasant is 9 M. to the E., and is often visited for the sake of its 
noble over-view, and Lovewell’s Pond is near the village (by the Pine 
Street road). 

Cnpt. J ohn Lovewell, the son of an ensign in Crom well’s Puritan army, was an able 
partisan officer of the colonies. In April, 1725, he led 46 men from the Mass, fron¬ 
tier towns by a long and arduous march into the heart of the Pequawket country. 
After marching over 100 M., they reached Saco (now Lovewell s) Pond with 64 
men, and here they encamped for 66 hours, near the chief village of the Indians. 
On Saturday, May 8, while they were assembled around the ehaplain on the 
beach, and ere the morning devotions had been finished, a gun was heard and an 
Indian was seen watching them. They left their packs near the pond, and ad¬ 
vanced toward the intervales, but met an Indian in the forest who shot and mor¬ 
tally wounded Lovewell, though his own death followed quickly. Meantime the 
Sachem Paugus and 80 warriors had found and counted the packs and laid an 
ambuscade near them, which completely entrapped the Americans on their 
return. The magnanimous Paugus ordered his men to (ire over the heads of the 
invaders, and then to bind them with ropes. With horrid yells the Indians leaped 
forth and asked Lovewell if he would have quarter. “ Only at the muzzles of 
your guns ! ” shouted the brave captain, and led his men against the unprepared 
enemy. They drove the Indians some rods, but were repulsed by a fierce counter¬ 
charge, in which Lovewell and S of his men were killed. Then the Americans 
retreated slowly, fighting inch by inch, to a position with the pond on their rear, 
Battle Creek on the r., and Rocky Point on the 1. This sheltered position they 
maintained for eight hours against continual assaults, and at sundown the In¬ 
dians retreated, leaving 39 killed and wounded, including Paugus, who fell late in 
the contest. Throughout the long day the yells of the Indians, the cheers of the 
Americans, and the pattering of musketry resounded through the forest, while 
Chaplain Frye, mortally wounded while fighting among the foremost, was often 
heard praying for victory. In the moonlit midnight hour the provincials re¬ 
treated, leaving 15 of their number dead and dying on the field, while 10 of the 
19 others were wounded. After suffering terribly on the retreat, the little bftnd 
reached the settlements. The battle at Pequawket filled the northern tribes with 
fear, and caused some of them to move to Canada. A long and mournful ballad 
of 30 stanzas (like the old Scottish ballad of Chevy Chase) commemorates this 
forest-fight. 

“ What time the noble Lovewell came 
With fifty men from Dunstable, 

The cruel Pequa t tribe to tame 
With arms and bloodshed terrible. 

“ Ah! many a wife shnll rend her hair, 

And many a child cry ' Woe is meJ ’ 

When messengers the news shall bear 
Of Loveweli s dear-bought victory. 

“ With footsteps low shnll travellers go 

Where Lovewell s Pond shines clear and bright, 

And mark the place where those are laid 
Who tell in Lovewell s bloody light.” 

Fryeburg was granted to, settled by, and named for, Gen. Joseph Frye, of An- 


PORTLAND TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL. Route Jfi. 287 


dover. Mass., a veteran officer of the French wars. It was for many years the 
only town near the White Mts., and grew rapidly, having a weekly market-day 
which tilled its streets with busy life. An academy was early established here 
(endowed by Mass.), and was taught in 1802 by Daniel Webster. Governor Enoch 
Lincoln lived here from 1811 to 1819, and wrote a long poem, entitled “The Vil¬ 
lage,” which was “ descriptive of the beautiful scenery of the fairest town on the 
stream of the Saco.” A few Pequawket Indians lingered in this locality after the 
dispersal of the tribe, and did good service in the expedition of Rogers’s Rangers 
against St. Francis, and in the Continental Army. 

Fryeburg has more than a score ot summer boarding-houses : Fryeburg House, 
Martha’s Grove, Alden B. Walker, John Weston, etc. Woodlawn Cottage and 
Cottage Park are 4 M. out. Daily stages run to Stow (11 .\I ) and Chatham (13 M.). 

Daily stages run from Fryeburg to Fryeburg Centre (4 M. N.) and thence to 
~L,ove\\( American /louse), 5 M. N.,and Centre Lovell, 4 M. farther, near the beau¬ 
tiful Kezar Pond, which is 1 M wide and 8 M. long. 

After the train leaves Fryeburg, the mountain views in front and to the 
1. are fine. The line enters New Hampshire, and passes by Conway Centre 
(daily stages 2£ M. S. W. to Conway Corner) to N. Conway (see page 223). 


40. Portland to Quebec and Montreal. 

Via the Grand Trunk Railway, which is owned and operated by an Anglo-Cana¬ 
dian corporation. This line is principally used for the transportation of freight, 
but it runs one through passenger train daily. Portland to Gorham, 91 M., in 41- 
6 hours ; to Quebec, 817 M., in 19 hours ; to Montreal. 297 M., in 16^ hours. The 
Maine Central route to Montreal leads by the Craw ford Notch aud Passumpsic 
Valley, and the Canadian Pacific line. The Maine Central has a capital route to 
Quebec, running on the Quebec Central line from Dudswell Junction. 

The train leaves the spacious terminal station in Portland, near the Vic¬ 
toria Docks, and, passing around Munjoy’s Hill, crosses the mouth of 
Back Cove. Thence it runs through the towns of Falmouth and Cumber¬ 
land, near Casco Bay, and crosses the Maine Central Railway at Yar¬ 
mouth Junction. 

Station, N. Yarmouth, settled on the Indian domain of Wescustogo 
about 1640, and deserted in 1675-8, and 1688-1713, on account of the 
Indian wars. On returning in 1713, the settlers found a young forest cov¬ 
ering their old fields and roads. Between 1725 and 1756 many of the 
colonists were killed or captured by the Indians. During the first half of 
the present century, the town grew and prospered, but during the past 20 
years it has lost 16 per cent of its population. Stages run hence to Dur¬ 
ham, on the Androscoggin. 

Stations, Povmal and New Gloucester, the latter being a pretty and 
prosperous village which was founded by men of Gloucester, Mass., about 
1735. At Danville Junction the Maine Central Railway diverges N. E., 
and runs to Lewiston and Bangor; also, stages to Poland Spring, 6 M. 
(see page 308). From Lewiston Junction, branch line to Lewiston. Sta¬ 
tion, Mechanic Falls ( Cobb's Hotel), u small factory-village, on the Little 
Androscoggin, from which daily stages run to Casco, 12 M. S. W. 

The Rumford-Falls & Buckfield Railroad runs 39 M N. from Mechanic Falls, by 
W. Minot (daily stage to Hebron Academy, 3} M.); East Hebron; Buckfield 
(Ruchfield House), daily stages to Chase’s Mills, 4 M. ; Turner, 6; Sumner, and 
>V\ Sumner, 7 M.; E. Sumner; Hanford; Canton ( Hotel Swazey), with stages 
to Peru, 7 M.; Dixfield, 10 ; Mexico, ;5; Rumford Falls, 17 ; Koxbu'ry, 21 ; Byron. 


288 Route +0* 


BETHEL. 


25 ; Houghton’s, 30. Gifbertvitle is the end of the railroad. Buckfield was the 
birthplace of John D. Long. Canton was the home of the Kockonieka Indians, who 
were exterminated by the small-pox in 1557, and was settled in under tn 
name of Phipps-Canada. It is prettily situated near the Androscoggin liiver. 

The next station on the Grand Trunk is Oxford ( Lake House), from 
which daily stages run to Otisjield, 10 M., and Casco (Eastman House). 

Station, S. Paris ( Andrews House), a busy village, with manufactures 
and a large country trade. A ra.lroad 2 M. long leads to Norway {Beals; 
Kim), a prosperous tactorv-town near Pennessewassee Pond, with daily 
stages to the Waterfords, Harrison, Bridgton, etc. Stages run from every 
train to Paris Hill (Hubbanl House), 3 M. N. E. This is 

a village on a hill 831 ft. high, where are located the Oxford County build¬ 
ings. It w r as the birthplace of Vice-President Hannibal Hamlin; and the 
home of Governors Perham, Parris, and Lincoln. To the E. is Mt. Mica, 
where beautiful specimens of tourmaline are found, together with 55 other 
minerals. It is called “the most interesting locality of rare minerals in 
the State of Maine.” Streaked Mt. is near by, and is nearly 1,800 ft. high. 
Stations, W. Paris ( Maple House) and Bryant’s Pond ( Glen-Mountain 
House) from which daily stages run to Milton Plantation, Rumford, and 
Andover (21 M. N.; fare, $ 1.50); als > to Rumford, Mexico, Dixfield, and 
N. Jay (on the Androscoggin Railroad). Another line runs from Mexico 
through Roxbury to Byron. Rumford has some high hills, — White Cap, 
Glass-Face, and others, which yield thousands of bushels of blueberries an¬ 
nually. The Rumford Falls have been called “the grandest in New Eng¬ 
land,” and liave suffered but little from “ improvement.” The descent of 
the Androscoggin River is over 150 ft. in three or four plunges over ragged 
granite ledges. The third fall has a nearly perpendicular descent of 70- 
80 ft., and its roaring is heard at a great distance. There are three taverns 
in Rumford. 

At Bryant’s Pond station the track is 700 ft. above the sea, and the 
Pond itself is a pretty highland lake, from which flows the Little Andros¬ 
coggin River. Station, Bethel (* Bethel House, accommodating 100 
guests ; “ The Elvis ” House), a beautiful village in a town of about 2,200 
inhabitants. The broad intervales of the Androscoggin are outspread here 
in all their fertility and fairness, while noble views of the White Mts. in 
the W. are obtained from adjacent hills. There are also mineral springs 
(small hotel) in the town, and numerous summer boarding-houses, where 
comfort, quiet, and abundant country fare are given for the moderate 
price of $ 6 —10.00 a week. 

Bethel has often been likened to N. Conway on account of its mountain- 
views and rich intervales, and many city people spend their summers 
here to enjoy the air, the scenery, and the fine fishing in the vicinity. 12 
M. S. of Bethel are the Albany Basins, where the Pequawket River has 
worn a wonderful series of reservoirs in the talcose rock, the largest of 
which is 70 ft. deep and 40 ft. in diameter. 18 M. N. E. of Bethel, by 
good roads and through pleasant river-scenery, are the Rumford Falls. 


GILEAD. 


Route 40. 289 


Bethel to Lake Umbagog. 

Daily stages to Cambridge (Lakeside House), at the foot of the lake, in 29 M. The 
country traversed is mostly in a wild state and thinly populated, but affords some 
striking river and mountain scenery. Tue Androscoggin is followed for 6 M. to 
Mewry (small inu), after which the road lies near the Bear River, and 6 M. beyond 
Newry, Bartlett's Poplar Tavern is passed. The Screw-Auger Falls are about 3 M. 
from this point, and near Fanning's Mills, beyond the Tavern the high hills of 
Grafton (chief among which are Speckled and Saddleback Mrs.) appexr to close 
across the road. But the near River is closely followed into Grafton Notch, a 
lonely pass among the frowning hills. The remarkable water gorge known as 
Moose Chasm is situated in this notch. The small Cambridge River is now ap¬ 
proached, and in its valley the road passes on to the lak*\ The township of Upton 
(formerly Letter B Plantation, aud made a town in i860) is now entered, and the 
stage stops at the Lakeside House , on the shore of Umb;igog. A steamer leaves on 
the arrival of the stage, and runs to Errol Dam (N. II.), a rude lumbermen's vil¬ 
lage, with two inns Dixville Notch is 1(J M. N. \V. of Errol, and the handsome 
village of Colebrook is 20 M. from Errol (by the Notch road). From Bethel to 
Colebrook (see page 243) the distance is about 60 M. 

A steamboat runs from Brrol Dam ( Umbagog House), 20 M. up the Magal- 
loway River to Brown's f'arm, whence a buckboard road and a good path lead to 
the top of Mt. Aziscoos, overlooking all the Rangeley Lakes. A carriage-ride of 
7 M. leads from Brown's Farm to Androscoggin Fall-, whence tho Magalloway is 
nivigated by a steamboat for 15 M. to the i ew hotel at the foot of the meadows. 
12 M. of canoei ig follows, to the Forks, and then a portage-path of 411 to the 
lonely and forest-bound Parmachenee Lake. 

Camp Caribou is on an island near the head of the lake, much frequented by 
the sportsmen of the Parinacheuee Club. 

See also page 2y2. 

Bethel was settled in 1773, under the name of Sudbury-Canada, and here, in 
1781, occurred the last Indian depredation in Maine, when a small war-party 
from St. Francis plundered the outlying houses, killed three men, and led three 
prisoners to Canada. 

The next station beyond Bethel is Gilead , a small village on the fertile 
Androscoggin meadows, between two ranges of shaggy mountains. It 
was named for a great balm-of-Gilead tree within its borders, and in the 
early years was almost rendered untenable by bold raids of bears with 
which the hills were infested. On the night of the Willey slide in the 
White Mt. Notch (1826), immense avalanches fell from the mountains of 
Gilead, especially from Picked Hill. “The darkness was so intense as 
almost to be felt. The vivid lightnings and long streams of fire covering 
the sides of the mountains caused by the concussion of the rocks, only 
served to make the darkness more visible. The valley rocked as though 
an earthquake were shaking the earth.” 

Beyond Bethel the railway passes the village of W. Bethel and runs - 
through the glens of Gilead to Shelburne (Winthrop House). From this 
point the mountain-views on the S. W. are fine, and the train runs down 
on the r. bank of the Androscoggin, with Mt. Moriah on the 1. and Mt. 
Hayes on the r., to Gorham (see page 227). Station, Berlin Falls (small 
hotel), near the famous Falls on the river, and next to Berlin is Milan , 

“ on the plains of Lumber-dy.” The view down the river from Milan is 
very beautiful, including the vast forms of Mts. Washington, Adams, and 
Madison. E. of Milan is the town of Success, with 5 inhabitants, and 
N. of Stark, through which the train passes beyond Milan, is the town 
13 a 


290 Route IfO. 


ST. HYACINTHE. 


of Odell, with about 25,000 acres and 1 inhabitant. The line now follows 
the Upper Ammonoosuc River, to Northumberland , and thence passes up 
the 1. bank of the Connecticut River to Stratford and N. Stratford , with 
the Percy Peaks on the r. (see page 243). The line now crosses the river 
and runs through 15 M. of uninhabited forest in Vermont, to Island Pond 
(* Stewart House , 300 guests); a village erected by 
the railway, which has spacious buildings here; this point being 149 
M. from Portland and 148 M. from Montreal. The border custom-house is 
located here, and near the village and track is a pretty lake, 2 M. long 
and \ M. wide, surrounded by a hard, smooth beach of white quartz 
sand, with waters abounding in fish. About 12 M. beyond Island Pond, 
the train passes Norton Pond, and enters the Dominion of Canada. At 
Lt -nnoxville the Passumpsic R. R. (Route 24) comes in from the S. Sher¬ 
brooke is also on the Canadian Pacific Railway, running 69 M. to Lake 
Megantic (and Moosehead Lake); and the Quebec Central R. R., run¬ 
ning by Lake Aylmer and the Chaudiere Valley to Quebec (140 M.). 
Richmond (on the St.-Francis River) is the seat of St.-Francis College. 

The Quebec Branch runs 76 M. N. E. from Richmond to Quebec. 
Station, Danville, a pretty rural village, with beautiful views from Clare¬ 
mont Hill and the Pinnacle (which is 3 M. from Danville, and rises 1,000 
ft. from the plain). Kingsey Falls are 7 M. distant, and are often visited. 
Station, Arthabaska, whence a branch road runs 35 M. N. W. down the 
Becancour valley to Three Rivers, on the St. Lawrence. 10 M. E. of 
Arthabaska is Rouillard MU, whence a broad forest-view is gained, ex¬ 
tending from the St. Lawrence 40 M. N. W. to the bright Lakes Aylmer 
and St. Francis, in the distant S. E. The train now passes on through a 
thinly populated country, and crosses the Chaudiere River about 8 M. 
from Quebec (2-3 M. from the Falls), and near the point where the Riviere 
du Loup Division (125 M. long) of the Grand Trunk Railway diverges to 
the N.E. The train stops at Point Levi , opposite Quebec, and pas¬ 
sengers are carried across the St. Lawrence in ferry-boats. 

Quebec, see Route 56. 

From Richmond to Montreal the distance is 76 M. (almost due W.). 
After passing the copper-mining town of Acton, the train reaches St. 
Hyacinthe, 35 M. from Montreal. This is a curious old Franco-Cana- 
dian city, pleasantly situated on the plains on both sides of the Yamaska 
River. The Cathedral is a fine building, and the college is one of the 
best in America. “ The course of studies here is said to be only equalled 
by the best Jesuit colleges in France.” The * college building is an im¬ 
posing structure of cut stone, 700 ft. long, and surmounted by a cupola. 
The fertile district between St. Hyacinthe and Montreal is inhabited by 
the descendants of the old French immigrants, preserving their language, 
customs, and religion intact. The railway stations on this tract are 
Soixante, St. Hilaire, St. Bruno, St. Hubert, and St. Lambert. The 


FARMINGTON. 


Route 41- 291 


singular mts. of Beloeil, Yamaska, and Rougemont are passed, and at 
St. Lambert the train crosses the St. Lawrence on the * Victoria Bridge. 
Montreal, see Route 54. 

41. Portland to Farmington and the Rangeley Lakes. 

Portland to Farmington 83 >1. in 4 hours ; to the Rangeley Lakes, 120 M. 

The train leaves the new Union Station and runs over Route 40 to Leeds 
Junction, where it passes on to the rails of the Androscoggin Division of 
the Ma.ne Central Railway. 


For the next 12 M. the line runs through the town of Leeds, 
stopping at the stations, Curtis Corner , Leeds Centre, and N. Leeds. 


Gen. O. O. Howard was born at Leeds in 1830. He graduated at West Point, 
and was an instructor there until the outbreak of the Rebellion in 1861. Leading 
the 3d Maine Volunteer Infantry into the field, he won distinction and a general’s 
commission at Bull Run, and lost his right arm at the battle of Fair Oaks. He 
commanded the 11th corps of the Army of the Potomac at Fredericksburg, 
Chancellorsville, and Gettysburg, and then fought in the Georgia campaigns. He 
commanded the right wing of Sherman’s array in the march to the sea, and 
since the war has been engaged in the work of bettering the condition of the 
negroes and Indians. 

The next three stations (Strickland’s Ferry, E. Livermore, and Liver¬ 
more Falls) are in the long town of E. Livermore, where the train ap¬ 
proaches the Androscoggin River. Livermore Falls is devoted to manu¬ 
factures. This district was called Rockomeka, or “ great corn land,” by 
the Indians, and is distinguished for its fine breeds of cattle. 

Just across the river is the town of Livermore, the birthplace of the brothers,— 
Israel Washburne, Congressman, 1851-61, and Gov. of Maine, 1861-3; E. B. 
Washburne, Congressman from Illinois, 1853 -69, and Minister to France, 1869- 76, 
an able statesman and skilful d : plomatist ; and C. C. Washburne, Congressman 
from Wisconsin, 1856-62 and 1867 -71, a successful general in the campaigns in the 
lower Mississippi valley, and chosen Governor of Wisconsin in 1871. There is a 
handsome Gothic public library of granite erected as a memorial, on the Norlands, 
the Washburne estate, wit.i fine p >rtraits. 

The Rockomeka is a summer-resort at Livermore Falls. 

Stations, Jay Bridge and N. Jay, with great granite-quarries (stages to 
Bixfield on Route 40), in the farming town of Jay; and Wilton ( Wilton 
House), a manufacturing village, from which daily stages run W. 13 M. to 
Weld ( Pleasant-Pond House), on the shore of a lake, with lofty mts. in the 
vicinity. Bear Mt. is on the S., Ben Nevis on the VV., Metallic Mt. on the 
N., and Bald and Blue Mts. on the E., the latter being, nearly 3,000 ft. 
above the sea, and 2,360 ft. above the village. Stages run to Chesterville. 

Beyond E. Wilton , the train crosses the Sandy River and its inter¬ 
vales on a broad, curving trestle, and stops at Farmington ( Stoddard 


292 Route 41 . 


niE RANGELEY LAKES. 


House ; Hotel Marble). The town lias 3,200 inhabitants, with a bank, a 
weekly paper, and 6 churches. This bright village is situated on the 
favorite grain-lands of the old Canibas Indians, and has also a lucrative 
lumber-trade. The Western State Normal School is located here; also the 
Little Blue School, so that this remote village on the edge of the forest has 
somewhat of an academic air. The Franklin-County buildings are also 
located here. 

Stages run from Farmington to Temple; to New Vineyard, New Portland, and 
Blaisdell ; to New Sharon, Rome, Belgrade, and Augusta. 

New Portland and Kingfie'd (Motel Winter) are picturesque but thinly popu¬ 
lated mt. towns. Near KingSeld on the W. is the Me. Abraham Range, 8.3t*7 ft. 
high. The natural and civil histories of the Maine border towns are monoto¬ 
nously alike They were mostly settled between 1775 and 1800, exhibited a slow 
growth until 1880, and then began to retrograde. The losses occasioned by the 
war, the great emigration westward, and the sterility of the New-England race 
are the reason* generally assigned for this decadence, while the severity of the 
climate, the destruction of the forests, and the exhau-tion of the soil are self- 
evident natural causes of decline. Franklin County, through which the present 
route is laid, had nearly 2,000 more inhabitants in I860 than in 1870, and in that 
same decade the State lost 7,872 in population. 

Tfi» Franklin if Megantic Railroad runs 154 M. N from Strong, to Salem, near Mt. 
Abraham, aud Kingfield. Daily stages thence to Stratton and Eustis, 28 M. N. \V. 

The Rangeley Lakes 

have of late years become the favorite fishing-ground of New England, 
and hotels, cottages, lodges, and camps abound on their beautiful wooded 
capes and coves. They are nearly 1,500 ft. above the sea, and cover 80 
square miles, abounding in trout and other game-fish, and surrounded bv 
great unbroken forests, haunted by game. A quaint little railroad as¬ 
cends. from Farmington, passing Strong (stages to Freeman, 5 M.), to 
Phillips (* The Elmwood; Barden House), a lively frontier-town, with two 
churches, a paper, and miles of fertile farms. A road and path lead hence 
to the crest of 'It. Blue. From Phillips a highway runs to Madrid (Madrid 
House), across the Beech-IIill spur of Saddleback, and down to Greenrale 
( Green-Vale House), whence a road of 3 M., and a steamboat, run down 
Rangeley Lake, 9 M. by 3 M., to Rangeley (Rangeley-Lake House; 
Oquossoc House), a small lake-side village. 10 M. N. is Kennebago Lake , 
and 7 M. W. is The Outlet (Mountain-View House), 1^ M. from Indian 
Rock and Camp Kennebago, the headquarters of the powerful Oquossoc 
Angling Association. Close by is Cupsuptic Lake, rich in scenery, and 
the route to Parmachenee Lake (17 M. by boat, and 8 M. of hard walking). 
Mooselucmaguntic Lake, just below, is traversed by a steamer touching 
at Richardson’s Camp, Bugle Cove, Camp Bema, and Upper Dam, where 
there are small inns (stages from Camp Bema to Bvron, 10 M.). This is 
the largest of the Rangeley Lakes, and has much beautiful scenery, and 
very good fishing and hunting. (See also Route 85.) 

Below the Upper Dam is Lake Mollychunkamunk, 5 M. by 11, famous 
for trout and deer, and 6 M. from Mt. Aziscobs; and below this is Welo- 
kenebacook Lake. There are small steamboats and inns on both these 
lakes. A 6-M. road leads from the Middle Dam to Lake TJmbagog, whose 
steamer runs to Upton and Errol Dam (see pages 244 and 289). and up the 
lonely Magalloway River, near whose head-waters is Lake Parmachene. 

Another favorite route to the Rangeley Lakes is from Bryant’s Pond, on the 
Grand Trunk, 22 M. N. to the lovely town of Andover ( French's Hotel ; Ando¬ 
ver House, $7-10 a week), whence daily buckboards run, 11 M., to the S. arm 
of Welokenebacook, connecting there with the steamboat at noon. From Bry¬ 
ant’s Pond (Glen-Mountain House) the stngc passes through Pin Hook and ltum- 
ford (Rumford Hotel), and ascends the Ellis-River Valley by Lead Mt., White Cap, 
and other peaks. Stage fare, to Andover, $ 1.50 ; thence to S. Arm, SI.50. The 
road from Andover N. leads through an unbroken wilderness, with picturesque 


SKOWHEGAN. 


Route 42. 298 


mountains and notches. The vicinity of Andover is full of interesting excursion- 
points, — White-Cap Mountains, 7 M. (road within 1 M. of top); Black-Bro k Notch, 
9 M ; between Sawyer Mt. and Blue Mt.; Sawyer’s Notch; and the Cascades. In 
1891 the railway from Farmington to Phillips was extended to Rangeley Lake. 


42. Portland to the Upper Kennebec. 

By either of the Routes 46 or 47 to Waterville, and thence by a branch railroad 
in 16 M. to Skowhegan. This line passes along the r. bank of the Kennebec, witli 
the stations of Fairfield, Somerset Mills, and Pishon Ferry. 

The Somerset R R. runs farther up the valley, diverging from the Maine Central 
R. R at Oakland, and passing through Norridgewoek, Madison, Anson, and N. 
Anson (26 M.). 

Skawhegan (TTeselton House , 150 guests, S 10.50-14; Hotel Coburn , 
#8-12) is a pleasant village in a prosperous town of about 4,000 
inhabitants. It has 3 banks, a weekly paper, and 5 churches, and 
derives its importance from numerous manufactories situated on a large 
water-power. The Kennebec here falls 28 ft. perpendicularly over ragged 
ledges, with a picturesque island ending at the crest of the fall. The 
falls are best viewed from the point near the site of the Skowhegan Ho¬ 
tel, or from the carriage-bridge below. From the latter point there is a 
pleasant view down the river, the most prominent object being the grace- 
ud railway-bridge, while the stream is narrowed between high, rocky 
banks like a western canon. The favorite drive is to Norridgewoek 
(5 M.) by a line river-road, returning on the opposite bank, and affording 
beautiful views of the blue Kennebec. 


Stupes from Skowhegan to Norridgewoek, Canaan, Cornville, Mayfield, Blan¬ 
chard, Madison, and Solon. 


Norridgewoek {Qumnebass^t House) is a beautiful rural town, on the 
Somerset Railroad, 5 M. from Skowhegan, with the old Somerset-County 
buildings, and a broad river-side street on which stand some rare and im¬ 
mense old elms. The Kennebec is here crossed by carriage and railway 
bridges, dlere dwells “ Sophie Mav,” in one of the great old mansions. 
5 Mrabove is Old Point (read Whittier’s “Mogg Megone”). 


At Old Point was the chief town of the Canibas Indians, a powerful tribe of 
the Abenaqui nation. As early as 1610 French missionaries from Quebec settled 
here, and in 1605 Sebastian Rale, a Fre'neh Jesuit, came from Canada and be¬ 
came the spiritual and (practically) political chief of the tribe. Rale was a 
man of high culture, and had been Greek professor in the College of Nismes (in 
S. France). He prepared a complete dictionary (now at Harvard University) of 
the Abenaqui language, which had diminutives and augmentatives like the 
Italian, and was “ a powerful and flexible language, — the Greek of America.” 
While the colonial government policy was generally equitable and fair toward the 
Indians, frequent gross injuries and cruelties were inflicted on them by irrespon¬ 
sible English adventurers. Hence a burning sense of wrongs endured and the 
loss of their ancestral lands forced the Indians into a constant state of warlike 
fervor It is said that Father Rale had a superb consecrated banner floating 
be,ore his church, and emblazoned with the cross and a bow and slieat of arrows. 


294 Route 42. PORTLAND TO THE UPPER KENNEBEC. 


This was the crusading flag borne often and again over the smoking mins of 
Maine and N. H. villages. In 1705 Norridgewock was destroyed by 270 colonial 
soldiers, who marched thither swiftly in winter by the aid of snow-shoes. At the 
dose of Queen Anne’s War (Peace of Utrecht) the Sachem of the tribe went to 
Boston, to demand workmen to rebuild the village-church, and an indemnity for 
the destruction of the houses. Mass, promised both, on condition that Norridge¬ 
wock would accept a Puritan pastor, but the Sachem refused the condition. The 
Indians soon restored their homes, and suffered another plundering raid in 1722, 
for which the coast of Maine paid dearly. In 1724 it was seen that the tribe 
must be driven away before the coast-towns could be held securely, and in Au¬ 
gust of that year an atrocious attack was made on Norridgewock by 208 colonial 
soldiers from Fort Richmond. So carefully was the advance guarded by Har¬ 
mon’s Rangers and a company of Mohawks, that the village was surrounded, and 
the first intimation of the presence of the colonials was conveyed in a shower of 
bullets which swept through the streets. Some of the Indians escaped through 
the thin environing lines, but all who remained in the wigwams — men, women, 
and children — were massacred. 

“ The noise and tumult gave Pere Rale notice of the danger his converts were 
in, and he fearlessly showed himself to the enemy, hoping to draw all their atten¬ 
tion to himself, and to secure the safety 01 his flock at the peril of his life. He 
was not disappointed. As soon as he appeared, the English set up a great shout, 
which was followed by a shower of shot, when he fell dead near to the cross which 
he had erected in the midst of the village. Seven chiefs, who sheltered his body 
with their own, fell around him. Thus did this kind shepherd give his life for his 
sheep, after a painful mission of 37 years.” (Charlevoix.) When the fragment 
of the tribe re-entered the ruined village, they found Rale’s body, horribly muti¬ 
lated, at the foot of the mission cross. “After his converts had raised up and 
oftentimes kissed the precious remains, so tenderly and so justly beloved by them, 
they buried him in the same place where he had, the evening before, celebrated 
the sacred mysteries, namely, the spot where the altar stood before the church 
was burnt.” (Ilistoire Generate lie Nouvelle France.) Bishop Fenwick, of Bos¬ 
ton, erected a granite obelisk 011 the site of the church m 1833. After lying deso¬ 
late for half a century, Norridgewock was settled by the whites in 1773. 

Beyond Norridgewock, the Somerset Railway runs to Madison , whence 
daily stages 7 M. S. W. to Starks (Clifton House); and N. AuSjii ( omtrstt 
House), a busy little village, whence daily stages run up the Carrabasset 
Valley 8 M. N W. to N. New Portland, connecting there with stages 
thrice weekly to Dead River (Mt.-Bigelow House), 19 M. N. \V.; Flay- 
staff (Flagstaff House), 28 M., at the foot of Mt. Bigelow; and Eustis 
(Shaw House), 36 M. 

Beyond N. Anso», the Somerset Railroad traverses the thinly settled 
town of Embden, and crosses the Kennebec River to Solon ( Carritunk 
House), a pretty but decadent village on the heights (stages daily to Skovv- 
hegan, 15 M.). Here the Kennebec narrows from 480 ft. to 40 ft., and 
plunges downward 20 ft., at the Carritunk Falls. 6^ INI. farther N. the 
railway ends, at Bingham ( Binyham House). Daily stages run N. from 
Bingham 14 M. to Carritunk (Carney’s Hotel), and 23 M. to The Forks 
(harks Hotel , 100 guests, $6-14 a w r eek), at the confluence of the Kenne¬ 
bec and Dead Rivers. This little forest-girt hamlet is 5 M. from the island- 
strewn and mountain-walled Moxie Pond; 12 M. from the fine trouting of 
Pleasant Pond ; and 25 M. (no road) from Moosehead Lake. Thrice weekly 
stages run 15 M. N. W. to Parlin Pond ( Parlin-Pond House , $5-14 a 
week), a beautiful sandy shored .ake, famous for its good fishing. Ail 
this wild and sequestered region yields abundant hunting and fishing. 


KATA II DIN IRON-WORKS. 


Route 43. 295 


This is the old route from Quebec to New England, traversed yearly by 
thousands of French-Canadiane, and running in 160 M. from Skowhegan 
to Quebec, by Moose River, Sandy Bay, and the Chaudi&re Valley (bv St. 
Joseph de Beauce). The Canadian Pacific Railway reaches Moose River, 
Attean Pond, Spider Lake, and other localities in this region. 

43. Boston or Portland to Moosehead Lake. 

i •» 

The Mount-Kineo House is 121 hours from Boston (9 a. m. to 9.30 p. m.), by the 
Boston & Maine (E. Div.) and Maine Central Kailroads, to Dexter and Dover, the 
Bangor & Pisc.taquis line, and the lake steamboat (2 hours). The new Canadian 
Facitic Railway, from Mattawamkeag to Lake Megantic and the West, crosses the 
southern part of Moosehead Lake, meeting the Bangor & Piscataquis line at 
Greenville Junction. 

The Bangor and Piscataquis train ascends the Penobscot River for 12 M., 
by Veazie and Orono, to Oldtown, where it diverges from the Maine- 
Central line and runs up the Piscataquis Valley, across the decadent 
towns of Alton, Lagrange, and Orneville. At Mdo Junction a railroad 
diverges to the N. 17 INI. up the Pleasant-River Valley, famous for its 
slate-quarries, to Katahdin Iron-Works ( Silver-Lake Hotel , 100 guests), 
around which are very good trout-ponds and deer-haunted woods, with 
the Whitecap, Horseback, and Chairback Mts., the Gulf, the Ebeme Mts., 
and the Houston Ponds. A rude logging-road leads N. to Ripogenus and 
Chesuncook. At Brownville, on this line, may be found guides, and the 
road to Schoodic and Seboois Lakes and the Ebeme Ponds. 

From Sebec station, on the main line, daily stages run N. to S. Sebec, 
Sebec (5 M.), and Barnard. From Sebec a steamboat runs daily up the 
beautiful Sebec Lake, 12 M. long, to the Lake House , at the mouth of 
Wilson Stream. Boats, guides, and supplies may be obtained at Sebec 
for excursions to Buck’s Cove, Lake Onaway, and other famous fishing- 
grounds, amid charming wild scenery. 

Dover ( Blethen House), the shire-town, has a newspaper and many 
farms, and a railway S. W. to Dexter and v ewport. Across the river is 
Foxcvoft (Foxcroft Exchange), a busy manufacturing village. The train 
passes on by Sangerville and Guilford (Turner House), to Abbott Village 
(Buxton’s), whence a daily stage runs N. 14 M. to Howard and W illi- 
mantic, at the head of Sebec Lake. The line next rises on high grades, 
giving fine views over the hill-girt valley. From Monson Junction a 
branch line runs N. 5 M. to Monson ( Lake-Hebron Hotel, 100 guests), 
where 300 men quarry fine slate. Lake Hebron is 900 ft. above the sea, 
and 3i M. long. In the vicinity are Lake Onaway, 8 M.; Greenwood 
Lake; Sebec Lake. 9 M ; and a score of forest-enwalled ponds, stocked 
with trout, land-locked salmon, and German carp. 

Beyond Monson Junction the line traverses a thinly populated region, 
crossing the towns of Blanchard and Shirlev ( Shirley House), and running 
down to the terminus a‘ West Bay, on Moosehead Lake. 


296 Route 43. MOOSEHEAD LAKE. 

Moosehead Lake. 

The magnificent wilderness lying about and beyond Moosehead Lake, as far as 
the Canadian frontiers, with its lakes and rivers, portages aud camps, fishing and 
hunting grounds, &c., are very carefully described, with large maps and plentiful 
illustrations, in Lucius L. Hubbard’s *' Woods aud Lakes of Maine,” 

and also in the same author’s “ Guide to 

Moosehead Lake and Northern Maine.” 

Kineo is a peninsula situated half-way up Moosehead Lake, projecting from the 
E. shore so far that the lake, which a few' miles below is 15 M. wide, is here nar¬ 
rowed to little more than 1 M. Mt. Kineo is 900 ft. high, rising gradually from the 
water on the N. and W., aud on the S. and E. presenting perpendicular faces of flint 
rock. The Pebble Beach is formed of pieces of stone of various colors broken from 
the mountain, rounded and polished by the actiofl of the water. S. of the mt. the 
ground forms a plateau sloping gently to the water. Here stands the Mt.-Kineo 
House, with .accommodations for 500 guests, fitted with modern conveniem es, — 
a first-class hotel erected (in 1884) and maintained in the wilderness. It is famed 
as a headquarters for trout-fishermen, who come in great numbers from all parts of 
the United States for the fishing in June and September. It is also a favorite 
refuge for those afflicted with hay-fever, and a resort for all who enjoy the air and 
scenery of lake and mountain combined. Carriage-roads aud wood-paths lead to 
the Cliff, Pebble Beach, &c. Steamers belonging to the house convey guests to any 
part of the lake. Here camping parties for all points farther up the lake, for the 
West Branch of the Penobscot, and the St. John waters, obtain guides and sup¬ 
plies. The transient rates at the Mt. Kineo are #2 a day for June, #2-3 for July 
and Oct., $2.50 - 3.50 for Aug. and Sept., with discounts for sojourns of a week or 
more. Electric bells, steam-heating, gas, elevator, &c. 

Greenville (Lake House; Eveleth House) is a small farming village on the S. shore, 
and about 5 M. W. of Wilson Pond, which is famed for its trout. Here may be 
seen many lumbermen,— Americans, Indians, and Canadian and Acadian French¬ 
men,— rude and stalwart foresters. ‘‘Maine has two classes of warriors among 
its sons,— fighters of forest and fighters of seas. Braves must join one or the 
other army. The two are close allies.” 

Moosehead Lake is 35 M. long, from 4 to 12 M. wide, and contains 220 
square miles. It is 1,023 ft. above the sea, to which its waters pass by 
the Kennebec River. The shores are monotonous and uncultivated, save 
where Mt. Kineo runs out into the lake, though distant nits, on either 
side give variety to the view. Except Greenville, at the S. end, there are 
no towns, plantations, or permanent settlements on these lonely shores. 

Steamers leave West Bay daily for Mt. Kineo. Passing out of the long, 
deep cove in which the village is situated, the Squaw Mt. is seen on the 
1. and the steamer runs N. betAveen Deer Island on the 1. and Sugar Island 
on the r. E. of the latter is Lilly Cove, strewn with romantic islets and 
surrounded by mts. Beyond Sugar Island the great bay is seen to the S. 
W., through which the Kennebec flows outward toward the sea, while 
Spencer Bay opens to the N. E., with Spencer Mt. (4,000 ft. high) at its 
head. Katahdin may be seen to the N. E. on a clear day. The bold 
bluffs of Kineo are now seen ahead, and the steamer stops near its base 
and close by the hotel. 

At 16 -18 M. N. of Mt. Kineo, over the desolate-shorerl North Bay, the end of the 
Lake is reached, and a well-travelled portage of 2 M. leads across to the Penobscot 
River. This river may be descended in a birch-canoe well guided (passing several 
rapids) to Chesuncook Lake, 20-30 M. N. E. Plain forest-fare and rude forest- 
life must be encountered here. Chesuncook is about 20 M. long and 1-3 M. wide. 


PORTLAND TO ROCKLAND. Route 44 . 297 


and lies to the S. of the large Lakes, Caucomgomuc and Caucomgomosis, and the 
Allagash chain of lakes, the southernmost and largest of which is Apmogenagu- 
inook. Beyond Cliesuncook (S. E.) Ripogenus Lake is traversed, then ensues a 3 
M. portage, and then the river is descended for many leagues to Pemadumcook 
Lake, with Mt. Katalidin boldly prominent on the N. E. and N. This mt. is some¬ 
times ascended with the canoe-guides, from the river, — a long and arduous 
journey. From Pemadumcook the widening river (more properly the W. branch 
of the Penobscot) may be followed to Mattawamkeag or Oldtown. 

Good guides, a supply of provisions, and strong clothing are requisite for this 
tour, which requires 7-10 days, from Greenville to Oldtown. (See a vigorous 
account of this route by Theodore Wintlirop, “ Life in the Open Air,” Chaps. 
VI.-XV. ; also Thoreau’s “Maine Woods.”) 


44. Portland to Rockland. 

By the Maine Central Railway in 96 M. The 

train leaves the handsome new Union Station in Portland and passes 
over Route 47 to Brunswick. Stages run thence to Harpswell and Orr’s 
Island. A few miles beyond Brunswick, the train reaches Bath ( Sagada¬ 
hoc House), a maritime city situated on the 

Kennebec River, 12 M. from the sea. Bath has 9,000 inhabitants, with a 
valuation of $6,400,000, 7 banks, and a daily paper. It was formerly 
the fourth city in the republic in the shipbuilding business, and grew in 
wealth and prosperity until the decline of American commerce. This 
branch of industry was founded here in 1762, and was favored by the fa¬ 
cility with which the best ship timber was floated down the Kennebec from 
the northern forests. In 1853 and 1854 the tonnage built here amounted 
to 107,854. The city has a fine harbor, rarely embarrassed with ice, and 
deep enough for the largest ships. The streets are irregular in their 
contour, and the settled district extends for over 3 M. along the W. bank 
of the river, being only about \ M. wide. The river at this point is over 
\ M. in width, and is rapid and deep. There is a neat Government 
building here, also the Sagadahoc County buildings, and 11 churches. 

The site of Bath was first visited by Capt. Weymouth in 1605. It was bought 
from Robin Hood, an Indian chief, by Rev. Robert Gutch, of Salem, who lived 
here from 1660 to 1679. The growth of the settlement was very slow until the 
close of the Revolutionary War, when an active lumber and shipping trade sprang 
up, which was but momentarily injured by the Embargo and the War of 1812. 
From causes which are national rather than local, Bath’s leading industry has 
been checked, and the city, like the other small maritime cities of New England, 
is turning towards manufactures. 

Stages run daily to Arrowsic and Georgetown. Steamers run to Phipsburg, 
Georgetown, Arrowsic, Boothbay, Pemaquid, and Waldoboro. 

The long peninsulas and narrow parallel islands which run into the salt water 
below Bath are very interesting in a historical point of view. Arrowsic is an 
island town with about 250 inhabitants, on 20,000 acres of land, much of which is 
salt-marsh. This island was settled and fortified in 1661, and its settlement was 
destroyed bv an Indian raid in 1723. In another midnight attack, 50 houses were 
burnt, and 35 persons were killed and captured in the fort, which was stormed in 
the darkness. Months after, a detachment of soldiers .landed to bury the dead, 
but were ambushed and rudely handled. Georgetown is an island town below 
Arrowsic, with similar annals of early adventure. Phipsburg is a long peninsula, 
stretching for about 12 M. from Bath to Bald Head Cape, bounded on the W. by 

13* 


298 Route 44 . 


WOOLWICH. 


Quohog Bay, aiul on the E. by the widenings of the Kennebec*. The Huguenot chief, 
De Monts, planted the cross here in 1004, and in 1607 !Sir George Pojiham and 
Raleigh Gilbert (nephew of Sir Walter Raleigh) came here with 2 ships and 100 
men. “ They sayled up into the river neere 40 leagues, and found yt to be a very 
gallant river, very deepe,” and then returned to this peninsula, where they landed 
and celebrated the service of the Episcopal Church, assembled around their chap¬ 
lain. This is said to have been the first Christian service in New England. A 
line of cabins and a church were built, and Fort St. George was raised for their 
protection. After a quarrel between the colonists and Indians, the latter got 
possession of the fort, and plundered it; but having scattered around several bar¬ 
rels of powder (being ignorant of its qualities), it caught lire and exploded, de¬ 
stroying the fort and the Indians. The remaining aborigines, interpreting the 
fatal explosion as a Divine punishment, hastened to be reconciled with the colo¬ 
nists, whom they supplied with food all winter. The intense cold of the winter 
of 1607-8, the destruction of their stores, the dubious favor of the Indians, and 
the death of Popham and other leaders caused the colony to break up in the 
spring and return to England, having “found nothing but extreme extremity.” 
The peninsula was resettled in 1716 by the Pejepseot proprietors, who erected 
here a stone fort 100 ft. square, made houses and roads, and established a line of 
communication by sea with Boston. A few years later it was destroyed by a sud¬ 
den Indian attack, and the fort was demolished. The peninsula was again settled 
in 1737, and in 1814 was incorporated, and named in honor of Sir William Phips. 
The town has 1,344 inhabitants, largely engaged in fishing and shipbuilding, and 
its shores are rugged and irregular. Seguin Island lies offshore to the S. There 
are one or two small summer boarding-houses on the peninsula. 

Steamboats run two or three times a day irom Bath to Westport, Boothbay, 
Five Islands, Squirrel Island, t apitoi Island, etc. Thin is a singularly interestiug 
route, and leads through a delightful blending of marine and coast scenery, straits, 
islands, and broad openings to the sea. Another line of steamboats from Bath 
desceuds the Kennebec River to Popham Beach. 

Stages from Bath daily to U iuuegance, 2J M.; Phippsburg, 7 M. ; Popham 
Beach, 15 M.; Ashdaie, -mall Point, and Cliffstone ; Arrowsic, 5 M. ; Georgetown, 
lb M. ; and Bay Point, 14 M. 

At Bath the through cars for Rockland are taken across the Kennebec 
River on a large steam ferry-boat, and run on to Woolwich , on the farther 
shore. This town was settled in 1038 on the Indian domain of Nequasset, 
and depopulated by an attack in 1070. 50 years later it was re-settled, 
and in 1759 incorporated as Woolwich, so named from a resemblance of 
the Kennebec River at this point to the English Thames at Woolwich. 

William Phips was born at Woolwich in 1651, and was a shepherd on its rocky 
hills. Learning how to read and write, and then acquiring the art of ship-car¬ 
pentering, he rose in consideration and influence. In 1684 he sailed from London 
in a war vessel, to attempt the recovery of the gold from a sunken Spanish treas¬ 
ure-ship near the Bahamas. The quest was unsuccessful, but in 1687 he suc¬ 
ceeded in recovering from the wreck $1,500,000 in jewels and bars of gold and 
silver. He was knighted by the king, and received $80,000 of the treasure. He 
commanded the expedition which took Port Royal from the French, and from 1692 
to 1694 he was Gov. of Mass. In 1694 he died suddenly at London, where he had 
gone to render an account of his government. His activity, bravery, and enter¬ 
prise enabled him to rise from the tasks of an unlettered shepherd on the Wool¬ 
wich hills to the governorship of the chief British province in America. 

Beyond Woolwich the train passes the country stations of Nequasset 
and Montsweag, and then stops at Wiscasset (Hilton House), a maritime 
towm on the Sheepscot River, 12 M. from the sea. It has 1,733 inhabi¬ 
tants, 2 banks, and a weekly paper. • The widen¬ 

ings of the river opposite Wiscasset afford a broad and capacious harbor, 
with 12 - 20 fathoms of water, and but rarely troubled with ice. It w r as 


PEMAQUID. 


Route 44- 299 


once talked of for a U. S. naval station. This town was laid under con¬ 
tribution by the British sloop-ol'-war “Rainbow,” during the Revolution. 
Its palmiest days were between 1780 anti 1806, when the maritime trade 
was very extensive, and many leagues of back country were dependent on 
it for supplies. This prosperity was ruined by the Embargo and the War 
of 1812, and Wiscasset is now only a pleasant village, fading slowly from 
its picturesque hills. 

Daily stages run from Wiscasset to Boothbay Harbor, 10 M. S., another of the 
ancient peninsular towns. It was visited by Weymouth in 1G05 ; settled in 1630 ; 
destroyed in 1688 ; and resettled in 1730. Its tine harbor was chosen for a naval 
station by the British government about 1770, but the outbreak of the Revolu¬ 
tionary War prevented national works from being constructed. The town has 
1,700 inhabitants, who are mostly engaged in the fisheries, the coasting trade, and 
in shipbuilding. The village is very attractive, with islands in front guarding 
the noble harbor, in which, during long storms, 4-500 sail of fishing vessels 
sometimes take refuge. Many summer visitors rest at Boothbay, which is reached 
also by steamer from Bath. (See also page 425.) The Rosicrucian 

Sprinars, 2^ M. from Wiscasset, are valuable alkaline-saline waters, like the German 
seltzer , beneficial for dyspepsia, rheumatism, malaria,etc. 

The neighboring scenery, along the Sheepscot River, and about the 
ruins of Old Sheepscot aud Fort McDonough, is interesting. 

Beyond Wiscasset the train passes to the station, Newcastle and Dam¬ 
ariscotta. A considerable settlement was made at Newcastle early in 
the 17th century, as is evinced by the traces still seen. It was probably 
destroyed by the French, and its memory has faded from history. Many 
years after this colony fell, another was established, which was destroyed 
in King Philip’s War. A third settlement on the same site was destroyed 
in 1688, and the land lay desolate for 30 years. The town now contains 
1,300 inhabitants, mostly engaged in manufacturing. Damariscotta 

( Maine Hotel) was settled in 1640, and was a frontier post of the 
old Pemaquid Patent. It was often assailed by the Indians, and twice or 
thrice was abandoned. It was named for Damarine, Sachem of Sagada¬ 
hoc (called Robin Hood by the English), and now is generally spoken of, 
in the country-side, as “Scottie.” It has 1,000 inhabitants. The Dama¬ 
riscotta River separates it from Newcastle. 

Stages run from Newcastle to Damariscotta Mills : Walpole, 7 M. ; W. Bristol, 
9 M. ; S. Bristol, 14 M.: Bristol, 8 M. : Pemaquid. ll M. ; and Pemaquid Beach, 
14 M. From Damariscotta to S. Jefferson and Bunker Hill. Bristol is a territo¬ 
rially large town, embracing nearly all the peninsula between the Damariscotta 
River and Muscongus Bay. It has about 3.0U0 inhabitants, and at the village of 
Round Pond are extensive oil-works. There is a summer-hotel at Pemaquid. 

Pemaquid. 

On and near a rocky promontory in the extreme S. of Bristol is the site of the 
ancient colony of Pemaquid, than which no locality in New England has more of 
historic charm. The Maine Historical Society has explored these deserted shores, 
and the site and ruins of Fort Frederick have been secured for a monument to be 
erected in honor of the pioneers. 

Capt. Weymouth visited Pemaquid in 1605, and kidnapped several Indians. 10 
years later a furious war broke out between the Tarratine Indians and the Bashaba 
or Chief of the Western Maine tribes. The Bashaba and his family and council- 


300 Route 44- 


WALDO BORO. 


lors were put to death by a daring inroad of the Tarratines, but the tribes had 
become greatly reduced by the war and an ensuing pestilence. The Wawenocks 
(fear-naughts) occupied the peninsulas about Peinaquid, but were so reduced in 
strength as to be unable to prevent colonization. In 1630 it is said that a fort 
was erected here, and in 1631 the Peinaquid Patent was granted to two merchants 
of Bristol. In 1632 the pirate Dixey Bull entered the harbor, plundered the 
village, and carried away the vessels. Massachusetts sent an armed ship against 
him, but he was taken by a royal cruiser, and executed (probably) at London in 
1635. In 1648 all this region was formed into a “ Ducal State,” and made an ap¬ 
panage of James, Duke of York (afterwards King James II.). No religious service 
but the Anglican was allowed. In 1635, the 16-gun brig “Angel Gabriel” w is 
wrecked here, and in 1674 Sir Edmund Andros built Fort Charles, brought in 
many Dutch immigrants, and named the place Jamestown. It had then three 
long, paved streets, with several cross-streets, and was called “ the metropolis of 
New England.” The Indians remained tranquil during King Philip’s War, until 
they had suffered grave affronts from the colonists, when they swept down on 
Pemaquid and utterly destroyed it. Many of the people escaped in boats to Mon- 
liegan, an island far out in the sea. In 1678 the place was reoccupied, and in 
1689 it was again destroyed by the Tarratines, the 3 captains of the garrison 
having been killed. The point was reoccupied by 850 Mass, troops, and in 1692 
Sir William Phips erected a stone fort here, mounting 18 guns, and called the 
strongest on the continent. This was named Fort William Henry, and soon 
repulsed an attack by 2 French 36-gun frigates. In 1693 13 Tarratine and Penob¬ 
scot chiefs submitted at the settlement, and the village grew rapidly. In 1696 
Iberville (having defeated an English fleet on the coast) attacked the place with a 
fleet bearing several hundred French regulars, some Mic-Mac Indians, and 200 
Tarratines under Baron de Castine. After bombarding Fort William Henry from 
batteries on the opposite point and from the fleet, a breach was made and the 
fort was taken. The settlement was plundered and ruined, and the surviving 
inhabitants were led into captivity. It was soon settled again, and when Mass, 
took possession of Maine its people begged that Pemaquid might “remain the 
metropolitan of these parts, because it ever have been so before Boston was 
settled.” In 1724 the ruined fort was somewhat repaired to defend the people in 
Lovewell’s War, and in 1730 it was rebuilt under the name of Fort Frederick, by 
Col. Dunbar, surveyor of the King’s woods in America. This officer had a tine 
mansion here, and laid out a new city, but was soon relieved on account of his 
arbitrary acts, and was made Gov. of St. Helena. Fort Frederick was attacked in 
1745, and in 1747 it was a saulted by a French force, which was repulsed with 
heavy loss. The fort was destroyed by the people in the Revolutionary War, lest 
it should become, a British post. In 1813 a sharp naval battle occurred off Pema¬ 
quid Point, when the American brig “ Enterprise ” was attacked by the British 
brig “Boxer.” After a conflict of 48 minutes the “Boxer” surrendered, having 
suffered severe losses. In 1814 the place was attacked by 275 men in boats from 
the frigate “ Maidstone,” who were repulsed with such severe loss that the 
captain of the frigate was discharged from the British navy. 

Ancient fortifications, streets, cellars, wharves, and cemeteries are found all 
over the Point, and many remarkable antiquities may be shown by the farmers 
near the now deserted point. 

“ The restless sea resounds along the shore. 

The light land-breeze flows outward with a sigh, 

And each to each seems chanting evermore 
A mournful memory of the days gone by. 

Here, where they lived, all holy thoughts revive, 

Of patient striving and of faith held fast; 

Here, where they died, their buried records live. 

Silent they speak from out the shadowy past.” 

Pemaquid; a ballad. 

Beyond Damariseotta the train runs near the beautiful Damariscotta 
Lake, which covers 10 square tniles, and has steamboat navigation; and 
crosses the Bi'.ptis* town of Nobleborough. Waldoborough ( Exchange) is 
a handsome maple-shaded village, settled in 1753-4 by 1800 Germans. 


ROCKLAND. 


Route 44- 301 


Station, Warren (Hotel Warren ; Wight Hotel), settled by Scotch-Irish in 
1730, and where Scotch cheviot cloth is made, at the George’s-River mills. 
Daily stages to Union (Rural House; Burton), 8 M.N. Station, Thomas- 
ton (Kuux House), with 3,000 inhab.tants, a newspaper, 12 banks, and 6 
churches. Here is the Maine Slate Prison, founded in 1824(150 prisoners). 
The harbor is a deep and picturesque expansion of St. George’s River. 

In 1720 a fort was built here (near the present railway-station), and garrisoned 
and armed with cannon by Mass. It was furiously attacked by the Tarratine In¬ 
dians in 1722, and, an assault led by French monks having been disastrously re¬ 
pulsed, a mine was dug. This work was so unscientifically done that it fell in 
on the besiegers, who retired in confusion. In midwinter of 1723 it was again 
beleaguered vainly for 30 days, and in 1724 it was attacked by a fleet of 22 vessels 
(captured fishermen). A sharp naval skirmish was fought with colonial relief- 
ships, which were forced to retire, greatly damaged by the Indian artillery. But 
ihe fort still held out and repulsed every attack, and stood until the Revolution, 
when it was demolished by the British. Gen. Waldo (who died in 1759) obtained 
possession of the Museongus Patent, embracing a tract of 30 M. wide on each 
side of the Penobscot, and settled the peninsulas with Germans and Scotch-Irish. 
This tract came into possession of Gen. Knox through his wife, who was the 
heiress of part of it, and about 1793 he built here the finest mansion in Maine, 
and lived in baronial state, entertaining numerous guests with splendid hospi¬ 
tality. 

Henry Knox was born in Boston in 1750, and became a skilful military en¬ 
gineer and artillerist. He was commander of the artillery of the Continental 
Army, engaged in most of the important battles and sieges of the Revolution, 
and was Secretary of War from 1785 to 1795. He originated the first and only 
order of American chivalry, the Society of the Cincinnati, was strongly aristo¬ 
cratic in his tastes, and demanded the observance of the etiquette of a palace at 
his manor in Thomaston. The Knox mansion stood close to the present railway- 
station (which was one of the offices of the estate), and was demolished in 1872. 

Stages run from Thomaston to the ancient peninsular towns of Cushing and 
Friendship, on Museongus Bay; also to St. George, a historic old town, which 
projects into the sea, and is near the islands which Weymouth named St. George’s 
(in 1604). Weymouth set up a cross (Anglican) on these shores, and wrote, “ I 
doubt not .... it will prove a very flourishing place [Maine] and be re¬ 
plenished with many faire townes and cities, it being a province both fruitful and 
pleasant.” In 1724, 16 soldiers from the Thomaston Fort, led by Capt. Winslow, 
were ambushed and destroyed among St. George’s Islands, and in 1753 a strong 
stone fort was built on this peninsula. 

The train soon readies Rockland ( Thorndike Hotel), pleasantly situ¬ 
ated on Owl’s-Head Bay, looking out on Penobscot Bay. This city lias 
8,200 inhabitants, 4 banks, 4 weekly papers, 8 churches, a new Court 
House, a new granite Post-Ottice, and a copious supply of water from the 
beautiful Lake Chickawaukie. Ship-building is carried on, but the chief 
industry is lime-burning, 1,200,000 barrels being made yearly by 1,000 
men, in 82 kilns. The kilns should be seen at night. The environs of 
Rockland abound in picturesque hill and marine scenery. 

Steamboats run almost daily to Boston, Bangor, Portland. Castine, Maehias, Jones- 
port, Sullivan. Mount Desert, Hurricane Island, Vinalhaven, User’s Island, North 
Haven, Blue Hill, Ellsworth. Camden, Northport, Belfast. Bucksporf, etc. Daiiy 
stages to S. Hope, Union, Belfast, Camden, Owl s Head, fet. George, etc 

The granite of the adjacent islands is unrivalled for its beauty, compactness, 
and uniformity. Dix Island is a vast mass of granite, where the vessels load di¬ 
rectly from the sides of the ledges. It furnished the stone for the N. Y. and Phila. 
Post-Offices, and the immense monolithic columns for the U. S. Treasury at Wash¬ 
ington. The Bodwell Co. at Vinalhaven and Spruce Head furnished the material 
<or the new Government building at Cincinnati and the ttate, War, and Nav 
Departments at Washington. The Bay-Point Hotel is a summer-house at Rockland 
Breakwater. 


302 Route 45. PORTLAND TO MOUNT DESERT. 


45. Boston or Portland to Mount Desert. 

A new railroad line runs 8. E. from Bangor to Ellsworth and Mount-Desert Ferry t 
whence ferry-boats to Bar Harbor, in 8 M. (295 M from Boston; 9-10 hrs). 
2 trains daily, with Pullman cars 

Stanch steamships leave Boston nearly every evening (at 5 P. M.), reaching 
Rockland very early the next morning, and there connecting with the steamboat 
for Mt. Desert (in 5 hrs ). 

Passengers leaving Boston on the evening express-train (7 P. M. ; Eastern or 
Boston and Maine) reach Portland in time to take the steamboat (wharf close by 
station) for Rockland, Castine, and Mt. Desert. 

Steamboats leave Bangor Tues., Thurs., and Sat., at 8 A. M., running to Bar 
Harbor in 8 hrs., and touching at Castine, Islesboro, and other points 

The City of Richmond leaves Portland at 11 v. m. and passes over ordi¬ 
narily quiet waters, outside the famous peninsular towns of Sagadahoc 
and Lincoln Counties, to Rockland, which is reached at 5 A. m. The 
tourist should arise as early as possible, to enjoy the scenery of Penob¬ 
scot Bay. Leaving Rockland, with Owl’s Head on the r. and the pictur¬ 
esque Camden Hills on the 1., the steamer crosses the broad Penobscot 
Bay, between the insular towns of Islesborough and Vinalhaven, and at 
about 7 a. m. reaches Castine (Acadian Hotel; Castine). This is a 
pretty village on a narrow peninsula projecting into the bay, and its his¬ 
tory is of great interest. Perkins St. leads to the sea-swept Dice’s Head, 
with its summer cottages. See Noah Brooks’s article on Castine, in the 
Century Magazine , Sept., 1882. 

This peninsula was called Pentagoet, and was taken by the Plymouth Com¬ 
pany for a trading-post. There was a Puritan fort here in 1(32(3, and at a later 
day the place was taken by the tleet of D’Aulney, who had been sent out by Car¬ 
dinal Richelieu and liazilla, to recover Acadia. D’Aulney built strong fortifica¬ 
tions here, and withstood a long bombardment from two Mass, ships under Capt. 
Girling. The next few years are made romantic by the wars of the rival feudal lords, 
D’Aulney and La Tour, the one Catholic and the other Huguenot, in which Pen¬ 
tagoet and St. John suffered repeated sieges and attacks. In 1074 a Dutch Heet 
took Pentagoet after suffering some losses. In 1097 Vincent, Baron de St. Cas- 
tin, formerly colonel of the Royal Carignan Regiment, and the lord of Oleron, in 
the French Pyrenees, came to Pentagoet, married the daughter of Madoekawando, 
the Sachem of the Tarratines, and became the apostle of Catholicism among the 
tribes, who revered him more than his creed. In 1088 Sir Edmund Andros, 
with the “ Rose ” frigate, plundered the settlement, and St. Castin was ever after 
a bold enemy of Mass. In 1690 he led his Indians in Iberville’s fleet against 
Pemaquid, which he destroyed. After living here for 30 years, he fought in the 
Nova Scotia campaigns of 1700-7, and then returned to France. His son by the 
Tarratine princess became chief of the Penobscot tribes, and was a peaceful, 
brave, and magnanimous gentleman, who ruled his wild subjects successfully 
until 1721, when he was led prisoner to Boston. He usually wore the Indian 
costume, but sometimes appeared in a superb French uniform. In 1722 he went 
to France, and took possession of his father’s property, honors, and seigniorial 
rights, and lived until his death on his Pyrenean estates. Lineal descendants 
of the St. Castins have governed the Tarratines until the present (at least until 
1800). The New-Englanders settled at Castine in 1700, and in 1779 it was fortified 
by 050 British soldiers. Mass, sent a powerful force against this point, consist¬ 
ing of 2,000 soldiers, in 24 transports, convoyed by 19 war-vessels, carrying 3s4 
cannon. The Americans were twice repulsed from the peninsula, but after losing 
100 men in a third attempt they landed and opened batteries. After "several days 
of cannonading, 7 British frigates (204 guns) entered the bay, and bore down on 
the crescent line of American ships. After one broadside the American line was 


MOUNT DESERT. 


Route 45. 303 


broken, and a disgraceful debandade ensued. After a hot pursuit among the 
islands and up the river, every vessel of the great fleet was taken or destroyed, 
without resistance. The army straggled in broken squads to the Kennebec set¬ 
tlements, and Commodore Saltonstall was cashiered for the most shameful defeat 
which America ever suffered on the sea. Castine was held by the British from 
1779 to 1783, and was again taken and held by 4,000 of their troops in the War of 
1812. The history of Castine has more romantic interest than that of any New 
England town, and its soil abounds with the relics of 5 national occupations, 
while 5 naval battles have been fought in its harbor. 

Castine is a wealthy town, with neat wide streets and fine residences. 
It is the seat of the Eastern Normal School, and has 3 churches. The 
chief business of the people is connected with the sea, in shipbuilding, 
coasting, or the deep-sea fisheries. Faint traces of St. Castin’s fort are 
seen, and on the hill behind the village the English Fort George is well 
preserved. The remains of various American batteries and field-works 
are found on the peninsula, while the harbor is commanded by a neat 
little fort recently erected by the United States. Castine is a favorite 
summer-resort, by reason of its seclusion, its heroic memories, its fine 
boating and fishing facilities, and the salubrity of its sea-breezes. 

From Castine the steamer turns S., and rounding Cape Rosier, passes 
through a narrow sound, and stops at Deer Isle, an insular town of 3,400 
inhabitants, devoted to the deep-sea fisheries. The sound is then crossed 
to Sedgivick, a rugged and thinly inhabited town, beyond which the 
course is S. E. around Naskeag Point, and across the island-strewn Bay, 
with Mt. Desert looming in front, and the lofty Blue Hill (950 ft. high) 
on the N. Passing around the lower point of Tremont, S. W. Harbor is 
entered, and the steamer stops at a pier near a great lobster-canning fac¬ 
tory. Leaving this point, the island shores are rounded, with their re¬ 
markable rock-bound cliffs and overhanging mountains, to Bar Harbor. 

Mount Desert. 

Hotels. — At Bar Harbor, The Malvern (150 guests), $25 to $30 a week ; The 
Louisburg, $4.50 to $5 a day ; West Eud, $15 to $2u a week; Rodiek House, $14 
to $25; Newport, and Marlborough, $14-18 ; Grand Central, $10-20; St. Sauveur, 
$14-35; Des Isles, Hamilton, Lynain, and Belmont, $14-18. Eagle-Lake House. 
At Seal Harbor, Glencove : Seaside. At Northeast Harbor, Kimball House, Rock 
End, Harbor Cottages, Clifton, Roberts, Indian-Head Cottage, $10-16 a week. At 
and about Southwest Harbor, Island House, $9-12; Freeman, Stanley, Ocean, 
and Sea-Wall Houses, $8-10; Cliremont, $10-14; Dirigo, $8-14. At Some svi lie, 
Mount-Desert House, $6-10. At Mount-Desert Ferry, near the head of French¬ 
man's Bay, is the Bluffs, a handsome summer-hotel for 200 guests ($10-25 a week). 
Steamships run from Boston to Bar Harbor thrice weekly, in summer. 

Mcmnt Desert is an island covering 100 square miles, and is distin¬ 
guished for its wild and romantic scenery of mountain, lake, and shore, 
and for its curious and poetic history. Politically, it is divided into 3 
towns, with an aggregate of about 5,000 inhabitants, on 60,000 acres of 
land. It is said that there is no point (except Rio Janeiro) on the Atlan¬ 
tic coast of the Americas, where such magnificent scenery is found,— the 
sublimity of the mountains challenging the eternal grandeur of the sea. 
There are 13 distinct mountain-peaks here, with numerous lakes, while a 
deep, narrow arm of the sea runs to the N. nearly through the island. 


304 Route 45. 


MOUNT DESERT. 


The sen-shore by Bar Harbor. The view from the village is very 
pretty, extending across the Porcupine Islands in Frenchman’s Bay to 
the rolling hills of Gouldsborough. There are beaches near the village, 
and the high rocky islet across the narrow harbor is Bar Island. The 
beach rambles may be done by the water-side at low tide, but the chief 
points of interest are more easily and safely reached by the roads which 
follow the shore. Cromwell's Cove is nearly 1^ M. S. of the village, and 
has bold cliff-shores, on one of which is seen the rock-figure called the 
Assyrian. The Indian’s Foot (a foot-print in the rock) and the Pulpit 
are in this vicinity. 4 M. S. of Bar Harbor (by a road leading under New¬ 
port Mt. on the r., and with the Bay and the round-backed and bristling 
Porcupine Islands on the 1.) is Schooner Head, a high, wave-washed 
cliff, with a white formation on its seaward side, which resembles a 
schooner under sail. It is said to have been cannonaded by a British 
frigate in 1812. The Spouting Horn is a passage worn through the cliff, 
through which the billows sweep in stormy weather, and form an inter¬ 
mittent fountain above the cliff. The Mermaid’s Cave is S. of the Head, 
and 1^ M. beyond is * Great Head (gained by a field-path to the 1.), “ the 
highest headland between Cape Cod and New Brunswick,” with wonder¬ 
ful cliffs and chasms, and a broad sea-view. Newport Beach stretches 
beyond Great Head to Thunder Cave (entered only by boat), which is in 
the lofty Otter Creek Cliffs. 

6 - 7 M. N. W. of Bar Harbor are the Ovens, a range of caves in the 
porphyritic cliffs on Salisbury Cove, where the sea has produced some 
fine effects of beach and worn rocks and bright and dripping ledges. The 
Via Mala is a long passage in the neighboring cliffs. At Hull’s Cove 
(Hull's Cove House, $ 7 -10.00 a week), 2 M. N. of Bar Harbor, is a neat 
crescent beach, near which the Gregoires dwelt. Madame Marie Therese 
de Gregoire was the granddaughter of the Gascon noble, Condillac, to 
whom the King of France granted Mt. Desert in 1688. In 1785 she 
claimed and received the island, and lived here with M. Gregoire until her 
death (about 1810). From Point Levi, N. of the Cove, a fine view is 
given of Frenchman’s Bay, which is 10-12 M. long and about 8 M. wide, 
with Newport and Schoodic Mts. on r. and 1., at its entrance, — “the 
Pillars of Hercules at Mt. Desert.” 

* Jordan’s Pond is 9 M. S. W. of Bar Harbor, by a road passing 
through Echo Notch. About 8 M. beyond the village a side road to the 
r. is taken, which leads to the lake, situated between the noble cliffs of 
Sargent’s Mt. on the W. and Mt. Pemetic on the E., with the Bubble 
Mts. on the N. The banks of this lake furnish the most beautiful pros¬ 
pects on the island, with rare combinations of the charms of mountain- 
waters and mountain-cliffs. The lake is 2 M. long, and ^ M. wide, and 
affords good trout-fishing. 


GREEN MT. 


Route 305 


Eagle Lake (so named by F. E. Church, the artist) is 2£ M. W. of Bar 
Harbor, and is reached by a path leaving the road near Green Mt. It is 
2 M. long, with Green Mt. on the E., Sargent and the Bubble Mts. on the 
S. and S. W., and the bold peak of Pemetic on the S. There are pretty 
sand-beaches on the shores, and the ascent of Mt. Pemetic may be made 
from the S. end. There are many trout in these calm and transparent 
waters. 

* Green Mt. is near Bar Harbor, from which a road leads to the summit 
in 4 M. There is a hotel on the summit, where accommodations for 
the night maybe obtained. “The view from Green Mt. is delightful. 
No other peak of the same height can be found on the Atlantic coast of 
the U. S., from Lubec to the Rio Grande, nor from any other point on 
the coast can so fine a view be obtained. The boundless ocean on the one 
side contrasting with high mts. on the other, and along the shore numer¬ 
ous islands, appearing like gems set in liquid pearl, form the most promi¬ 
nent features in the scene. White sails dotted over the water glide slowly 
along. We know not what view in nature can be finer than this, where 
the two grandest objects in nature, high mts. and a limitless ocean, 
occupy the horizon. The name of Eden is truly appropriate to this beau¬ 
tiful place.” 20 M. out on the ocean is seen Mt. Desert Rock, with its 
lighthouse bearing a fixed white light. In the W. are the numerous mts. 
of the island, with bright lakes interspersed, while the Camden Mts. are 
in the distance. It is said that Katahdin is sometimes visible in the re¬ 
mote N. (100 M. away). Frenchman’s Bay, with its many islands, and 
the Gouldsborough Mts. beyond, is outspread on the E. It is claimed 
that Mt. Washington has been seen from this point, 140 M. W. Whittier 
thus describes this view (in “ Mogg Megone ”). 


“ The hermit priest, who lingers now 
On the Bald Mountain’s shrubless brow. 
The gray and thunder-smitten pile 
Which marks afar the Desert Isle, 

While eazing on the scenes below, 

May halftbrget the dreams of home. 

Far eastward o’er the lovely bay, 
Penobscot’s elusteied wigwams lay ; 

Beneath the westward turning eye 
A thousand wooded islands lie,— 

Gems of the waters ! — with each hue 
Of brightness set in ocean’s blue. 

There sleep Placentia's group, — and there 
Pere Breteaux marks the hour of prayer. 


And there, beneath the sea-worn cliff, 

On which the Father’s hut is seen. 

The Indian stays his rocking skiff, 

And peers the hemlock-boughs between, 
Half trembling, as he seeks to look 
flnon the Jesuit’s Cross and Book. 

There, gloomily against the sky 

The Dark Isles*rear their summits high ; 

And Desert Rock, abrupt and bare. 

Lifts its gray turrets in the air. 

Seen from afar, like some stronghold 
Built by the ocean-kings of old 
And, faint as smoke-wreath white and thin 
Swells in the north vast Katahdin ; 

And wandering f ont its inaishv feet 
The broad Penobscot comes to meet 
And mingle with his own bright bay.” 


The Green-Mountain Railway was built in 1883, 6,300 ft. long, to the 
top of Green Mt., 1,532 ft. above the sea, where a comfortable new hotel 
has been built. Buekboards run from Bar Harbor to Eagle Lake, which 
is crossed by a steamboat to the railway station. The average rise is 1 ft. 
in 4i; the maximum, 1 in 3. Tie summit is visited by 6-8,000 persons 

every season. 

T 


306 Route Jfi. 


SOMES’ SOUiN'D. 


Newport Ml. is near the water, and commands a noble view of “the 
very many shadowy mountains and the resounding sea.” The ascent is 
made from the Schooner Head road. Most of the other mts. have been 
ascended and furnish fine views, while the summit of Kebo hr. from 
Bar Harbor) affords a charming prospect at sunset. 

5 M. W. of S. W. Harbor is Seal Cove, a small harbor near a lake which is 
4 M. long and very narrow, under the spurs of Western Mt. Long Lake 
is 2.\ M. N. W. from S. W. Harbor, and extends for several miles between 
Beech and Western Mts. Echo Lake lies about 3 M. from the 

Harbor, and is 4 M. long, with Dog Mt. on one shore and the imposing 
Storm Cliff on Beech Mt. on the other. These large lakes are said to be 
well stocked with fish, and by the near approach of the mts. they afford 
fine scenic effects. 

Beech Mt. is often ascended from S. W. Harbor (a mountain road runs 
nearly to the summit). The view embraces Denning’s Lake, Somes’ 
Sound, the eastern group of mts., and Frenchman’s Bay, on the E., with 
Long Lake, Western Mt., Blue Hill, Penobscot Bay, and the Camden 
Hills, on the W. The ocean-view on the S. is of limitless extent. The 
bleak summit of Dog Mt. and the easily ascended Flying Mt. command 
extensive prospects over Somes’ Sound on the E. Sargent’s Mt. and Mt. 
Mansell are sometimes ascended from this point. 

Somes Sound is an arm of the sea which extends up between the mt. 
ranges, for 7 M., with a width at its entrance of 2 M. The scenery here 
has been likened to the Delaware Water Gap, to the Hudson River at the 
Highlands, and to Lake George. This deep fiord is a favorite sailing 
ground, although caution is necessary on account of the sudden gusts 
which sweep down from the mts. “ Somes Sound enables us to sail 
through the heart of the best scenery on the Island.” The Sound is well 
seen from Clark’s Point, at S. W. Harbor, and a road leads near its shores 
to Somesville, at the N. end. After passing the gateway between Dog 
Mt. on the 1. and Mt. Mansell on the r., a broader expanse is entered, 
with Beech Mt. on the 1., and Green Mt. and the eastern group on the r. 
Fernald's Point is on the W. shore, and is a pleasant spot, with grassy 
lawns and a cold, clear spring. This was the seat of the Jesuit settlement 
of St. Sauveur, and Father Biard’s Spring is still shown. There are 
picturesque cliffs on the mts. in the vicinity, and Flying Mt. rises on the 
W. Somesville is a small village prettily situated at 

the head of the Sound. The central lakes and mts. are easily visited 
from this point, and the boating and fishing on the Sound are much prized. 
Somesville is 6 M. from S. W. Plarbor, 8 M. from Bar Harbor, and 4 M. 
from Fernald’s Point. 

In 1603 Henri IV. of France granted to the Sieur de Monts all the American 
shores between the present sites of Philadelphia and Quebec, under the name of 
Acadia. While De Monts and Champlain were exploring their vast domain, they 


MOUNT DESERT. 


Roiue 4o. 307 


saw the peaks of this island, which was called Monts Deserts by Champlain. The 
priests Biard and Masse assumed too much authority at the Port Royal colony, 
and were sternly rebuked by its chief, Potrincourt, who said, “ It is my part to 
rule you on earth, and yours only to guide me to heaven.” They threatened to 
lav the colony under interdict, and Potrincourt’s son so resented this that they 
left Port Royal on a ship sent from France by Madame de Guercheville, with 
other Jesuits on board. The mission band sailed to the S. “We then dis¬ 
covered that we were near the shore of Mt. Desert, an island which the savages 

call Pemetic.We returned thanks to God, elevating the Cross, and singing 

praises with the holy Sacrifice of the Mass. We named the place and harbor St. 
Sauveur.” (Father Biard.) Historians differ as to the duration of the settle¬ 
ment, but it was finally broken up by Samuel Argali, Governor of Virginia, who 
surprised the place in a time of profound peace. His 14-gun ship entered the 
Sound “as fleet as an arrow,” and took the French vessel after some cannonad¬ 
ing, Father Du Thet having been shot down at a gun. The English now plun¬ 
dered the village, broke down the Jesuits’ crosses, and carried such of the 
colonists as they could find, captives to Virginia. Although granted by Louis 
XIV. to Condillac in 1688, the island was not resettled until the arrival of Somes 
in 1761. In 1762 Mt. Desert was granted to Gov. Bernard, of Mass., from whom 
it was confiscated during the Revolution because he was a royalist. In 1785, £ 
of the island was granted by Mass, to Sir John Bernard (the Governor’s son), and 
soon aiter the greater part of it was given to the Gregoires, heirs of Condillac. 

Bar Harbor in 1868 contained only the Agamont House and a few 
humble dwellings. Now its shores are lined with magnificent villas, the 
summer-homes of the Ogdens, Searses, Musgraves, Derbys, Howes, and 
other patrician families; and inside of these is a great cluster of summer- 
hotels and shops of every grade, with 3 churches, 2 newspapers, a 
skating-rink, a public library, a complicated sewerage system, and a 
water-supply from Eagle Lake. $5,000,000 has been invested here, and 
real-estate commands enormous prices. The shore cottages make “a down- 
east Newport ; the great village above is a combination of Bethlehem and 
Old Orchard.” 


Steamboats run daily (or oftener) from Bar Harbor around the island- 

coast to Seal Harbor, Northeast Harbor, and Southwest Harbor, — places 

which are also within driving distance of Bar Harbor. 

Visitors to Mount Desert should get Chisholm’s Mount-Desert Guidebook 

(25 cents). L. P. Hollander & Co. have established a large 

and fashionable millinery and clothing store at Bar Harbor. 

Seal Harbor ( Glencove House , new and comfortable; Seaside House ) is 

near the S. E corner of Mount Desert, 8 M. by road from Bar Harbor, 

through the noble scenery of Echo Notch. It faces the open sea and the 

rockv Cranberrv Isles, and is near beautiful mountain scenery and the 
- * 

lovely Jordan’s Pond 

Northeast Harbor (* Kimball House; Clifton House; Roclcend House) 
is 2-3 M. W. of Seal Harbor, on the coast, and beyond President Eliot’s 
(of Harvard University) summer-home and Mount Asticou. At the head 
of the harbor are the Harbor Cottages ( Roberts House ; Savage's), a quiet 
summer-resort, 2J M. bv trail from Jordan’s Pond, and ^—1 M. trom the Ilad- 
lock Ponds. The hotels and cottages at Northeast are on the promontory 



307 a Route 45. SOUTHWEST HARBOR. 


between the harbor and Somes Sound, and include the summer-homes of 
Bishop Doane, of Albany (Episcopal), Erastus Corning, S. I). Sargent, 
Moorfield Story, and others, and the pretty church ot St. Mary’s-by-the- 
Sea. Paths lead to the top of Sargent Mountain in 3 M., and in 2 M. to 
the top of Brown Mountain, noble and interesting view-points. From 
Gilpatrick’s Cove, near the cottages, boatmen will row visitors across 
Somes Sound, to Southwest Harbor, in M. A short distance N. is 
Manchester Point, or Indian Head , a bold headland making out into 
Somes Sound. The City of Richmond calls at Northeast Harbor. 

Southwest Harbor ( Claremont House , $12-15 a week; Island House; 
Dinyo House , all on Clark’s Point, near the steamboat-wharf; Freeman 
House, in the village at the head of the harbor, nearly 1 M. distant; Ocean 
House , $8-12 a week, across the harbor; Stanley House, near King 
Point, on the S. side of the harbor) is an interesting summer-resort near 
the mouth of Somes Sound, about 15 M. byroad from Bar Harbor. The 
various steamboats from the W. all stop here; and boats also run fre¬ 
quently to the Cranberry Isles, Somesville, etc. Greeniny's I.-land is just 
off-shore, on the E., with the villas of Northeast Harbor visible beyond. 
3-4 M. S. \\. is the Sea-Wall (Sea-Wall House), a ridge of small stones 
thrown up by the sea, 1 M. long and 15 ft. high, with the road running 
along its top, going on to Ship Harbor, Bass-Harbor Head, and Bass 
Harbor ( West-Side House; Tremont House), a busy lish-packing port on 
the W. side of the island. 

The Cranberry Isles (Hotel Isles ford, 150 guests) are reached by steam¬ 
boat from S. W. Harbor, and have manv points of interest, and beautiful 
views of the Mount-Desert mountains and passes. Steamers also run from 
S. W. Harbor up Somes Sound to Somesville, daily, giving access to the 
beautiful scenery of this fiord among the mountains. 

Grindstone Neck ( Grindstone Inn) is a charming seaside and cottage 
resort, founded by Philadelphians in 1890. At other points on the 
Sehoodic Peninsula, and at Winter Harbor, there are man} r pleasant sum¬ 
mer-cottages. , 


SORRENTO. —CUTLER. Route 45. 301b 


Sorrento ( Hotel Sorrento) is a modern summer-resort at the head 
of Frenchman’s Bay, 30 minutes by steamboat from Bar Harbor, and 
with noble views of the mountains of Mount Desert. It has about 
3,800 cottage-lots, on 6 M. of shore frontage, and is becoming a favor¬ 
ite resort of well-to-do families from Boston, New York, and Philadel¬ 
phia, having admirable facilities for yachting and fishing, comparative 
immunity from fog, and a wild and picturesque inland country, well 
stocked with deer, foxes, and other game, and with lakes inhabited by 
trout, bass, etc. The drives around the bay are of great beaut)’. Sorrento 
is a peninsula 3x1 M. in area, with hills, forests, and streams, and joined 
to the mainland by an isthmus £ M. wide. The average summer-day 
temperature is 70°, and 64° at night. A ferry-boat runs in 10 minutes to 
Mount-Desert Ferry, the railway terminus. To the S. is the noble upper 
reach of Frenchman’s Bay, 4 M. across, nearly circular in shape, and 
sheltered from fogs by the Porcupine Islands. In 1888 Secretary Whitney, 
Col. Dan. Lamont (President Cleveland's private secretary), and other 
prominent government ofheials took cottages at Sorrento. 

Cutler ( Hotel Cutler, 100 guests) is a new and promising summer-resort 
on the Maine coast, around Little-River Harbor, which is on the lonely 
and picturesque Atlantic coast between Machias and Lubec, W. of Grand 
Manan. The harbor, 2 X 1 M. in area, is deep and quiet, with picturesque 
rocky cliffs ; and is landlocked by the Eastern and Western Heads, with 
the pyramidal Lighthouse Island between. Inland, there are mountain- 
ranges, and the long lakes up the Machias River, which have been likened 
to the Rangeley Lakes for their scenery and fishing. 12 M. of coast and 
17,000 acres of land have been secured here by the Cutler Land Co., and 
a number of handsome summer-cottages now adorn the shores, with others 
in preparation. Cutler is reached by stage from Machiasport (see page 
307 d) in 14 M. 

Sullivan Harbor ( Waukeag Hotel , 200 guests ; Manor Inn; Swiss 
Chalet, a restaurant connected by arcade with the Manor) is reached by 
Pullman vestibuled trains from Boston, and steamboats from Bar Harbor, 
10 M. down Frenchman’s Bay. It is near the Schoodic and Tunk Mts., 
and looks out upon Mt. Desert and the Blue Hills, and the open sea. It 
has good facilities for boating, fishing, and driving; and the marine scenery 
of Waukeag Neck is of remai’kable beauty. Millbridge is also reached by 
the Mt.-Desert boats; and Gouldsboro (Bay-View House). 5 M. E. of the 
latter is Steuben , with a monument commemorating its 29 heroes dead in 
the Civil War. 


307 C Route 46. 


ISLE AU IIAUT. 


Isle au Haut (visited and named by Champlain in 160-1) is the farthest 
high land out to sea off the Maine coast. It is nearly 600 ft. above sea- 
level, at its highest point; and commands line views of the Camden Hills 
and Mt. Desert. The cliffs on the S. side are 90 ft. high; while Duck- 
Harbor Mt. rises direct from the ocean 300 ft. The island lies on the 
route to Mt. Desert, its S. extremity being but £ M. N. of the straight 
course from Boston to Mt. Desert. It is 7 M. from Green’s Landing, the 
S. village on Deer Isle, where the Mt.-Desert steamers of the Boston and 
Bangor Line touch at every trip. Carver’s Harbor, Vinalhaven, is 10 M. 
from Isle au Haut; and there are semi-dailv boats thence to Rockland. 
Isle au Haut lies 24 M. S. E. of Rockland. The passage from Rockland 
to Green’s Landing, 24 M.; and from Green’s Landing to Thoroughfare 
Harbor on Isle au Haut it is 7 M., the course lying through a picturesque 
and beautiful archipelago. At Green’s Landing, boatmen will always be 
found ready to carry passengers to Isle au Haut by either sail or row 
boats. Several of the residents accommodate boarders during the summer 
months. The island presents many attractions to the summer-tourist. It 
is well-wooded; and an equable temperature prevails throughout the sea¬ 
son, with much less fog than is common farther E. or nearer the mainland. 

Isle au Haut is 6 by 3 M. in area, with a shore-line of 40 M., and from 
a distance resembles the Blue Hills of Milton, and appears wrapped in a 
rich purple haze. The mountain-ridge is well-wooded, and has a con¬ 
spicuous notch near its crest-line. The island has about 200 inhabitants, 
clustered in a little port at The Thoroughfare, kind-hearted and hospitable. 
A comfortable club-house, having accommodations for 20 guests, was built 
in 1884 at Point Lookout , the N. extremity of the island. It is owned bv 
members of the Isle au Haut Company, residing in New York and Boston. 
James D. Barter, William G. Turner, and others will take boarders. Des 
Isles’ Tourists’ House (60 guests) was opened in 1886, at Head Harbor, on 
the E. coast. Steamers run from Bar Harbor to Isle au Haut. 

Deer Isle (Sunnyside Hotel , at N. W. Harbor) is a picturesque island, 
10 by 6 M. in area, with 6 hamlets and 3,300 inhabitants,—grave and 
thoughtful people, devoted to fishing and farming. It has ancient forests, 
sea-viewing hills, fine roads, pretty coves, a joyous bracing perfumed air, 
low prices, and simple fare. There are many farm boarding-houses; 500 
city-boarders visit the isle every season. The steamer Mt. Desert touches 
daily at Green’s Landing, at the S. end of Deer Isle; and the Henry Morri¬ 
son touches at N. W. Harbor on her route from Rockland to Ellsworth. 

Islesboro (Islesboro Inn, on Dark-IIarbor Head; Seaside) is a narrow 
and bold-shored island, 13 M. long, viewing Mt.-Desert and the Camden 
Mts., and favored by Philadelphia summer-visitors. Daily steamers to 
Rockland and Mt.-Desert. 


LEWISTON. 


Haute 4C. 307 d 


Mt. Desert to Machiasport. — The steamer crosses Frenchman’s Bay, 
and rounds the bold Schoodic Point. The deep fiords of Gouldsborough 
and Steuben are seen on the N., with the peninsulas which here run out 
from the mainland; and Petit Menan Island is passed, with its lighthouse, 
109 ft. high. The maritime village of Millbridge (Atlantic House ) is 
reached in about 3 hrs. The steamer then crosses Narraguagus Bav, etc., 
to Jonesport (Bay-View House), a peninsular town devoted to fishing and 
the coasting trade. Englishman’s Bay and Machias Bay are now crossed, 
and Machiasport is reached (by 5 o'clock r. m.). This is 

a shipbuilding village, with a railroad 8 M. long running into the lumber 
district of Whitneyville. 

Machias (Clare’s Hotel) is a manufacturing town of 

2,530 inhabitants, on the Machias River, X. of the port. It was fought 
for by the English and French in the 17th century, and finally settled in 
1703. The British war-vessel, the Margaretta,” was captured here in 
1775, and Sir George Collier's fleet was repulsed in 1777 by the militia and 
the Passamaquoddy Indians. 

46. Portland to Lewiston and Bangor. 

Trains leave the Maine Central station on arrival of the Eastern Railroad trains 
from Boston, some of the cars from Boston passing over on to the rails of the 
Bangor line. One train daily runs to Bangor, and three trains to Lewiston. 

The train runs through the farming towns of eastern Cumberland 
County for 1 hour, passing the stations, Cumberland , Walnut Hill, 
Gray, and New Gloucester . At Danville Junction the Grand Trunk 
Railway is crossed. 

Station, Auburn (Elm House), a prosperous little city 

just across the river from Lewiston. Auburn became a city in 1869, and 
has a population of 11,000, with many large shoe-factories and other 
works. The Androscoggin County buildings are located here. 

Station, Lewiston (* De- Witt House, fronting on the Park, $2.50 a 
day ; a manufacturing city of recent growth, having 

22,000 inhabitants, with 5 banks and a daily paper. The *City Hall is 
one of the finest municipal buildings in New England, and has a lofty and 
graceful tower surmounted by a spire. It fronts on the Park, near the 
De-Witt House. A large water-power is derived from the falls on the 
Androscoggin River, and is utilized mainly by cotton and woollen mills. 
Over $7,750,000 are invested in these works, which turn out $11,000,000 
worth of goods yearly, employing 7,500 operatives, running 300,000 spin¬ 
dles, and turning out annually 65,000,000 yards of cotton cloths, 900.000 
yards of woollen goods, and nearly 5,000,000 bags. Many French Cana¬ 
dians are employed here and the number of young people in the city is 


308 Route Ifi. 


READFIELD. 


quite notable. The bridge leading to Auburn commands a fine view of the 
Lewiston Falls , where the river breaks over a ledge of blackened gneiss. 

The Lake-Auburn Spring; Hotel ($10- 15 a week) is 6g M. by stage from 
Lewiston (or 3 M. to E. Auburn, and then steamer). Boston to Lake Auburn and 
return, $ 7. It is pleasantly situated on a bold bluff over the lake, and 900 ft. above 
the sea. The spring water is pure, soft, and laxative, efficient in liver, kidney, and 
stomach diseases. Lake Auburn is 4 M. long. At \Y r . Auburn (5 M. from Auburn) 
is the Grand- View House , 1,100 ft. above the sea, and looking across to Mt. Wash¬ 
ington. 

Poland Spring, 6 M. by stage from Danville Junction, has recently become 
the chief inland watering-place of Maine. The water (vast quantities of which are 
exported) is singularly pure, and is beneficial for kidney and stomach diseases, 
dropsy, scrofula, &c. The hotel is a huge modern structure, 800 ft. above the sea, 
with elevators, gas, &c., and overlooks a vast region of hills and lakes. 

Bates College is back of Lewiston, and has commodious buildings. It 
was organized in 1864, under the care of the Free Baptist Church, and has 
a Theological School attached. There are 12 instructors and 135 students, 
with about 12,000 volumes in the library. 

After leaving Lewiston the train passes through the farming towns of 
Greene , Leeds (where the Androscoggin Division crosses), Monmouth , 
and Winthrop ( Winthrop House), a pleasant village, near Lake Marano- 
cook, the chief picnic ground of Maine, a lovely winding lake which is 
9 M. long and 1 M. wide, dotted with picturesque islands. W. of the 
village is Mt. Pisgah, from which the White Mts. are seen. 

Station, Readfield ( Elmwood ), the seat of the Maine Wesleyan Semi¬ 
nary and Female College, which Avas incorporated in 1823, and has 150 
students (both sexes). Stages run to Augusta and Fayette. 

Station, Belgrade (Railroad House), in a toAvn whose sur¬ 
face is largely composed of lakes. Besides Messalonslce Lake , which lies 
near the track (on the r.), there are several others, one of which is between 
Belgrade, Rome, and Vienna, and co\ r ers 25 square miles. This lake is 
quite picturesque, with irregular and broken shores, and seA’eral islands. 
Stages run daily from Belgrade to Belgrade Mills (6 M.), between two great 
lakes; and to New Sharon, 10 M ; and Augusta, 9 M. The island-studded 
lakes of Belgrade abound in perch and bass. Stations, N. Belgrade , Oak¬ 
land ( Oakland House ), and Waterville, Avhere the Augusta Division of 
the M. C. Railway unites Avith the present route (LeAviston Division). 

Waterville to Bangor, see Route 47. 


BRUNSWICK. 


Route 4’/. 309 


47. Portland to Augusta and Bangor. 

Portland to Bangor, 138 M. Three through trains daily, and 4 trains daily to 
Augusta (63 M.). This is the favorite route from Portland to the East, passing 
through the valley of the Kennebec, and by Brunswick, Gardiner, Hallowell, and 
Augusta. The trains on the Boston & Maine Railroad from Boston make close con¬ 
nections at Portland with this line, and some of the cars pass over on to its rails. 
Time is given for dinner at the Union Station in Portland. 

After leaving Portland, the train passes over the suburban plains, and 
stops at Woodford's and Westbrook. The latter is a populous town, 
with 6,630 inhabitants (in 3 villages), and has large paper manufactories 
and works for canning corn, lobsters, &c. Crossing now the farming 
town of Cumberland, the line intersects the Grand Trunk Railway at 
Yarmouth (restaurant at the station), and then passes on to Freeport, a 
village at the head of Casco Bay, devoted to shipbuilding. The rural 
station of Oak Hill is next passed, and then the train enters Brunswick 
(Tontine Hotel; restaurant in the station). 

Pejepscot was settled in 1628, under a patent from Plymouth, and was soon 
assigned to Mass., under whose protection a flourishing colony settled here. It 
was destroyed by the Indians in 1676, and afterwards the territory was bought of 
certain local chiefs. The conflicting claims between the Plymouth patent and 
this later purchase gave rise to the most long and vexatious lawsuit in the annals 
of Maine. The proprietors built Fort George at Pejepscot, and in consideration 
of £ 400 from the province and exemption from taxes for 4 years, they maintained 
at the colony a clergyman, a schoolmaster, and a sergeant with 15 soldiers. The 
fort was on the W. side of the Androscoggin River, at the Lower Falls, and was 
called the key of Western Maine, since it guarded the favorite pass of the Ana- 
sagunticook Indians. It was erected in 1715, after the town had been destroyed 
a second time (in 1690). In 1722 Fort George was flanked, and the town was once 
more ruined by the revengeful Indians. The Anasagunticooks migrated to St 
Francis later in the century, and the district was soon reoccupied by the English, 
and in 1737 received the name of Brunswick. 

Brunswick is a prosperous town at the falls and the head of tide-water 
on the Androscoggin River, and is built on two broad, parallel streets. It 
has 6,000 inhabitants, with 4 banks, several churches,, a weekly paper, 
and numerous lumber-mills. The river here falls 41 ft. in 3 pitches, af¬ 
fording a large water-power, part of which is \ised by the Cabot cotton- 
mills. 


310 Route 47. 


BOW DO IN COLLEGE. 


Bowdoin College is located on an elevated plain near the railway-sta¬ 
tion. This institution was incorporated in 1794, and opened in 1802, with 
an endowment from the State of 5 townships and $ 19,000 a year for 5 
wars. It lias at present 24 instructors and 190 students, exclusive of 100 
students in the medical department, with a library of about 85,000 volumes. 
The old Massachusetts Hall has been beautifully titled up as a Museum of 
Natural History. The conspicuous building with two spires, which stands 
near the centre of the line, contains the handsomely frescoed chapel, and 
the gallery of statuary and paintings. Nearer the station is a large and 
attractive Memorial Hall built of stone, and the Medical School is across 
the road and near the Congregational Church. The pine-groves in the 
rear of the college are widely known for their sombre beauty, and afford 
favorite walks for the students. 

The Bowdoin Gallery of Paintings. Pierre Baudouin was a Huguenot gentle¬ 
man from La Rochelle, who landed at Portland in 1687. His grandson, James 
Bowdoin. was a friend of Franklin, an ardent patriot, and Gov. of Mass., 1785-6. 
James Bowdoin the son of the last-named, was a scholar and diplomatist, and at 
his death he left to this college 6,000 acres of land, § 6,000 in money, and his ex¬ 
tensive library, philosophical apparatus, and picture-gallery. Some of the paint¬ 
ings have been restored with questionable effect. 

2, Venus equipping Cupid, aftlr Titian; 3, Continence of Scipio, N. Poussin 
(perhaps only a line copy); 5, 6, Studio scenes ; 10, Sacking a town, Flemish 
School; 11, Italian scene, Vam.brome; 12, Surgeon and patient, attributed to 
Brouiver ; 13, Sleeping Cupid, Pupil of Guido Beni; 15, Italian landscape, N. 
Berghem; 14, 16, Landscapes ; 17, Infant John the Baptist, Stella; 18, Dutch 
Dairy Women, Flemish School; *19, Interior of a church, Flemish School; 21, 
Poultry, Hondekoeter; 22, Seven Ages of Man, Hogarth; 23, Old Tower, Hogarth; 
24, Ruins, Hogarth; 25, The Women at the Sepulchre, Simon Vouet (painted on 
copper); 28, View on the Campagna : 30, James Madison, Gilbert C. Stuart; 32, 
Artillery, Wouvermans; ** The Governor of Gibraltar, Van Dyke (one of his best 
portraits ; the college has refused $30,000 for it); 35, The Head of John the Bap¬ 
tist in a charger, after Guido Reni; 36, The Saviour, copied from a picture in the 
Roman Catacombs; 37, Mirabeau ; 38, Adoration of the Magi, after Rubens; 39, 
Descent from the Cross ; 40, John in the Wilderness ; 44, * Holy Family, either 
by Raphael, or a fine copy; 45, Translation of Elijah ; 46, Simon and the child 
Jesus in the Temple, possibly by Rubens; 50, A Scene in the Inquisition, Flemish 
School; 51, Venus and Adonis, after Titian; 53, Cleopatra ; 56, * The Angel deliv¬ 
ering Peter from prison ; 57, Diana and Endymion ; 58, Venus receiving gifts from 
Ceres, attributed to Rubens; 59, Fox and Pheasant; 60, Combat of Hyena and 
Dogs; 62, Adoration of the Magi, Domenico Franco; 63, Esther and Ahasuerus, 
Franco; 64, Marine view, Flemish; 65, Discovery of Achilles, Teniers; 66, Land¬ 
scape, Dutch; 67, Turkish sea-fight, Mauglab; 68, Morning on the coast, Laroix; 
70, Cattle, after Paul Potter; 70-89, Portraits of the Bowdoins, who claimed 
descent from Baudoin, the Count of Flanders and Crusader; 92, Storm at sea ; 93, 
Landscape ; 97, President Harrison ; 98, 99, Italian scenes ; 100, View of Messina ; 
102, Henry Clay; 104, The Duke of Cumberland, victor at Culloden ; 105, Pilgrim; 
106, The Walk to Emmaus ; 107, Peter repentant; 110, 111, Venetian views ; 112, 
Christ bearing the Cross ; 116, 117, French scenes : 119, Italian landscape : 120. A 
View on the Rhine ; 122, 123, Landscapes ; 126, Bishop McHvaine ; 127, 128, Affec¬ 
tion and Love ; 131, President Pierce ; 133, Portrait, Copley. 

Franklin Pierce, 14th President of the United States, was in the Bowdoin class 
of 1824, and in that of 1825 Henry W. Longfellow and Nathaniel Hawthorne 
were classmates. In the adjacent village, J. S. C. Abbott, the historian, and 
G. P. Putuam, the veteran publisher, were born. 

Railroads run from Brunswick to Lewiston, Farmington, and Bath. 

Diilv stages run S. 13^ M. to romantic and sea-girt Ilarpswell ; also tri-weekly 
mail 14 M S. to Orr's Islaud. 


AUGUSTA. 


Route 47. 311 


Beyond Brunswick the main line I urns N., crosses the Androscoggin, 
and approaches the bank of the Kennebec River (seats on the r. preferable) 
through the farming towns of Topsham and Bowdoinham. Richmond 
(Richmond House; Mitchell) is a manufacturing and ice-harvesting vil¬ 
lage, with daily stages to Litchfield, 12 M., and Dresden. Gardiner (. John¬ 
son House; Evans House) is a citv of 4,500 inhabitants, with 4 banks, 2 
weekly papers, 10 churches (4 of stone), and several paper-factories. The 
chief industries are sawing lumber in summer and ice in winter, and 
immense ice-houses line the Kennebec. The Common is situated on Church 
Hill (125 ft. above the river), which commands a pleasant view, and has 
the Soldiers’ Monument, the old stone Episcopal church, etc. The hill ia 
lined with residences; while the stores are on the riverward plain, and the 
factories are along the Cobbossee Contee River. This place was settled in 
1760, and was named in honor of the family which owned its territory. 
Steamers run from Gardiner to Ilallowell and Augusta, and to Boston. A 
covered bridge leads to Pittston. Daily stages run to Pittston; N. Pitts- 
ton, 5 M. ; Joice, 7; N. Whitefield, 10; E. Pittston, 6£; Whitefield, 9£; 
Aina, 10. 6 M. W. is the beautiful Cobbossee Contee Pond, abounding in 

bass, and 14 M. around. 

Station, Hallowell ( Hallowell House , near the station), a quiet little city 
on the Kennebec, with 3,000 inhabitants, 3 banks, a weekly paper, and 6 
churches. It has sand-paper and wire and oil-cloth factories; but is 
chiefly noted for the extensive quarries of white and light gray granite, 
back of the city, in which 150 men are employed. Hallowell was settled 
about 1754, and named in honor of its chief proprietor. It has a hand¬ 
some granite Gothic library. 

Augusta (* Augusta House , first-class ; Cony House , near the sta¬ 
tion; Hotel Noith ), the capital of the State of Maine, is 2 M. N. of 
Hallowell, and at the head of sloop navigation. The city is built on both 
sides of the Kennebec, and contains 10,500 inhabitants, with 5 banks, a 
daily and 5 weekly papers, 9 churches, and 3 Masonic lodges. The situ¬ 
ation of Augusta is beautiful, being on and around the high hills which 
border the river. About \ M. above the town is the great Kennebec 
Dam, 584 ft. long, and 15 ft. above high-water mark. Besides improving 
the navigation of the river above, this dam forms an immense water¬ 
power, estimated at 3,700 net horse-power. It was built in 1836-7, at 
an expense of $300,000, and was at one time owned by A. k W. 
Sprague, the Rhode - Island manufacturers, who erected large and 
costly factories in the vicinity. The commercial part of Augusta lies 
along the r. bank of the river, on Water St., while the heights above are 
occupied by mansions and public buildings. The handsome Congrega¬ 
tional Church, of granite, is on the verge of the ridge, and not far from 
the High School building. Fariher S., on State St. (which runs along 
the heights), are the fine granite buildings of Kennebec County, and be¬ 
yond these is the * State House. This elegant structure is built of white 
granite, mostly derived from ledges of the same material on which it is 
founded. It is situated on a high hill, which commands a beautiful view, 


312 Route 47. 


AUGUSTA. 


and is surrounded by well-ornamentq4 grounds. It was built in 1828 - 31, 
with a solidity which is rarely encountered in American public works, 
and its principal external features consist of a rustic basement, support¬ 
ing a colonnade of 10 monolithic columns of the Doric order, while above 
all is a graceful dome. The Rotunda is first entered, — a neat hall sup¬ 
ported by 8 columns, and draped with 80 storm-worn and battle-torn 
flags which were borne by the Maine regiments in the War for the Union. 
It is said that not a flag was lost by the Maine troops in the war. The 32 
pennons of the cavalry and artillery are arranged on the side-walls, while 
in the adjacent lobbies are 10 rebel flags which were taken in action by 
the troops of Maine. Under the chandelier in the centre of the hall is a 
neat little fountain, whose basin is stocked with trout. On the walls are 
portraits of Governor Pownal, Sir William Pepperell, Senator Rufus King, 
Gen. Knox, and Presidents Washington and Lincoln. On one side of the 
hall is a fine bust of Gov. Chamberlain, by Jackson. From the second 
story access may be gained to the halls of the Senate and House of Repre¬ 
sentatives, and on the S. side of the third story is the State Library, con¬ 
sisting of 23,000 volumes. Still higher up is the dome, from whose sum¬ 
mit (easily accessible) a fine view is enjoyed. On the S. is seen Hallowell, 
over broad reaches of the silvery Kennebec ; on the W. are high, wooded 
hills ; on the N. is the white city of Augusta divided by the river ; and 
on the E. is the Kennebec, with the U. S. Arsenal on the meadows be¬ 
yond, and the Insane Hospital on the heights. 

The State Insane Hospital is a noble granite building on the heights E. 
of the river, and situated in extensive ornamental grounds. It cost 
$ 300,000, and accommodates 300 patients, many of whom lighten the 
hours of their seclusion from the world by working on a large farm which 
pertains to the Hospital. The building is 262 ft. long, and was erected in 
1850 - 52, after the destruction by fire of the old Hospital, in which 27 
patients and a keeper were burnt. Near this point is the Kennebec Arse¬ 
nal, where the United States keeps several thousand stand of arms, with 
many cannon and other munitions of war. There are several neat build¬ 
ings here, and the grounds are by the river-side and are well arranged. 
The Hospital and Arsenal being in the E. wards of the city, are reached 
by crossing the long bridge near the foot of Water St., from which are 
afforded views of the slender and graceful iron railway-bridge. 

Togus Springs, 5 S. E. (railroad from Randolph), was formerly a sum¬ 
mer-resort. In 1866 a National Asylum for disabled volunteer soldiers 
was established at this beautiful place, at an expense of $300,000. A farm 
of 600 acres is attached to the Asylum, and 2200 men are accommodated 
here. They are uniformed, and in companies, and have a baud, orchestra, 
chapel, library of 5,000 volumes, etc. 


AUGUSTA. 


Route 47. 313 


N^ar the State House is the home of James G Blaine; and to the N. stands a 
stately soldiers’ monument (to 2<i() dead), erected in 1881. Neej- the bridge are the 
remains of Fort Western, built in 1754. The view from Oliver Hill is very at¬ 
tractive. M. W. is Cobbossee Contee Lake , abounding in bass. 

Augusta occupies part of the ancient domain of the Cushnoc clan of the Can- 
ibas tribe of the Abenaqui nation or Indians. It was in the Kennebec Patent 
granted to the Plymouth Colony in 1029, and was settled before 1054, but aban¬ 
doned and laid waste in 1676 (King Philip’s War). In 1716 a stone tort was built 
here, and abandoned in 1724 (Lovewell’s War), and in 1754 Port Western was 
built on the E. bank of the Kennebec River. This was a strong fort, surrounded 
by palisaded outworks garnished with towers, and in the autumn of 1775 it was 
occupied by Benedict Arnold, who crossed the wilderness to Quebec with 1,100 
men (New-Englanders and Virginians). Ilis command rested here for some time, 
and made batteaux in which the Kennebec was ascended to a point above Mos¬ 
cow. A long portage then took the forces to the Dead River, which was ascended, 
amid fearful hardships by hunger, cold, and exposure, to its head-waters. Another 
portage carried them to Lake Megantic (in Canada), whence the Chaudiere River 
was descended, and Arnold’s little army of gaunt and ragged heroes arose like an 
apparition from the savage southern wilderness before the walls of Quebec. 

Augusta prospered in the arts of peace until the outbreak of the Secession 
War, in 1861, after which it became a central rendezvous for the troops of the 
State. Among the regiments which formed and encamped here was the 8th 
Maine, which fought in South Carolina and Florida, lost 95 men at Drury’s Blulf, 
83 at Wier’s Bottom, and 100 at Cold Harbor, bearing meanwhile the colors pre¬ 
sented to them by the Governor of Maryland, at Annapolis. Also the 9th Maine, 
which fought in S. Carolina, stormed the Morris Island batteries at dawn, and 
took the colors of the 21st S. C., lost 100 'men in the repulse from Fort Wagner, 
and was decimated at Cold Harbor. Also the famous 1st Maine Cavalry, which 
fought at Brandy Station, Aldie, Luray, Middleburgh, and in numerous raids 
and outpost attacks, losing many hundred men. 

Augusta is 98 M. from Kittery ; 142 M. from Eastport ; 207 M. from Fort Kent; 
59 M. from Bangor ; 52 M. from Portland ; and 182 M. from Presque Isle. The 
State, of which it is the capital, has an area greater than that of the other five 
New England States combined. 

Steamers run between Augusta, Hallowell, and Gardiner, connecting there with 
the Star of the East, for Boston, and the ports lower dowu on the Keunebec 
River. 

Stages run from Augusta to W. Gardiner and Litchfield, to Winthropand Wayne ; 
to Manchester, Readfield, Mt. Vernon, and Vienna ; to Belgrade, Rome, and New 
Sharon ; to S. Vassalboro §uid China ; to Windsor, and to many other villages ; also 
across Lincoln County. 

At Augusta the line crosses the Kennebec on a light and graceful iron 
bridge, and follows the beautiful river for over 20 M. (seat on the 1. side 
preferable). Station, Vassalboro (small inn), a manufacturing village in 
a large and prosperous town, which is pleasantly diversified by hills and 
ponds, and has on the E. China Lake , which is about 10 M. long and 
afibrds good fishing. The lake is almost cut in two by projecting points 
at the Narrows, and empties by the Sebasticook River. Daily stages run 
6 M. E. from Vassalborough station to K. Vassalborough (Revere House, 
50 guests, $7-9 a week), at the foot of the like: thence 7 M. to China- 

Beyond Vassalboro, the train passes through Winslow, and crosses the 
Kennebec near its confluence with the Sebasticook. T. he ruins ot I ort 
Halifax are seen on the bluff point just S. of the union of the rivers. 
This fort was one-of a chain erected by Mass, to defend the Maine coast 
from French raids. It was built by Gov. Shirley in 1754, and garrisoned 


31-4 Haute Jf7. 


WATEKVILLE. 


by 130 men, until its abandonment, after the Peace of Paris (1763). 
Large Indian settlements formerly occupied the intervales in this vicinity, 
and as early as 1076 envoys of Massachusetts came here to detach the 
tribe from King Philip’s Confederation, — an unsuccessful attempt. 

Waterville (*Elmwood House, $7-18 a week), a city of 7,000 in¬ 
habitants, near the Taconic Falls on the Kennebec River, is built along 
rambling streets on a broad plain above the river, and has some handsome 
residences. Near the station are the buildings of Colby University 
(founded in 1813), which has 9 instructors and 150 students, with a li¬ 
brary of 20,000 volumes. This institution is under the care of the Baptist 
Church, and besides the usual barrack-like dormitories of American 
colleges it has two handsome new stone buildings. On one side is the 
new granite Scientific Department, while the other wing of the line is 
occupied by a fine stone building with a tower. The lower part of this 
edifice is occupied by the library, while the upper part is consecrated as 
a Memorial Hall. On one side of this hall is a fine monument by Mil- 
more, representing a colossal dead lion, transfixed by a spear, with an 
agonized face, and with his paw resting on the shield of the Union (an 
adaptation of Thorwaldsen’s Lion at Lucerne). Below this large and 
beautiful work is a tablet (also of marble) containing the names of 20 
former students who fell in the War for the Union, with the inscription, 

“ Fratribus etiam in cineribus caris quorum nomina intra incisa sunt, quique 
in hello civil! pro reipublieae integritate ceciderunt, hanc Tabulam posuerunt 
alumni.” The Memorial Hall is to be decorated with pictures. 

The Coburn Classical Institute is a fine stone building on Elm St., en¬ 
dowed by Ex-Gov. Coburn, and built in 1883. The town has a soldiers’ 
monument, and large cotton-mills. It is 7 M. to China Pond ((’apt. Brad¬ 
ley’s Hotel); 8 M. to the East Pond House, and 3 M. to the Cascade. 

A branch railroad runs from Waterville to Skowhegan (see Route 42), and at this 
point the Lewiston Division of the Maine Central Railway (Route 46) unites with the 
present route (the Augusta Divisiou). Stages run hence to many rural villages. 
The Somerset Railroad runs N. from Oakland (Oakland House) to Bingham. 

In running from Waterville to Bangor the train passes Kendall’s Mills 
(or Fairfield) station, and soon after the track of the Skowhegan Division 
turns off to the 1., and the present route (Bangor Division) crosses the 
Kennebec on a high bridge. Stations, Benton, Clinton and Buvnhom. 

From Burnham the Belfast Division of the Maine Ceutral Railway runs S. E. to the 
city of Belfast (see Route 48), in 35 M., passing through the farming towns of Waldo 
County, Unity (Central House), Tnorndike, Brooks (Rose House), and Waldo. 

The Sebasticook & Moosebead Railroad runs N. 8 M. from Pittsfield to Palmyra 
and Hart land (Hartland House), near the lovely and fish-abounding Moose Pond. 

Beyond Burnham the line follows the Sebasticook River to the station 
Pittsfield (Lancev House). Stations, Detroit and Newport ( Sawyer 
House), a prosperous village on the shores of East Pond, which is 15 M. 
around and affords good fishing. The Dexter Division runs N. to Dexter 
(Merchants' Exchavae) a town of 3.000 inhabitants, and to Dover. 


BANGOR. 


Route 4~> 315 


To the S. are the high hills of Dixmont, ami the train passes on by 
E. Newport , Etna, Carmel , and Hermon Pond to 

Bangor. 

Hotels. — * Bangor House, on the heights, $2-2.50; Penobscot Exchange; 
Bangor Exchange; 

Steamers leave daily (except Sunday), from June 1 to Oct 15, for Boston, stop¬ 
ping at river-ports : 2, 3, or 4 times a week other seasons. To Bar Harbor. 

Railroads. — The Maine Central, to Portland and Boston, 246 M. 

in 10 hrs.; to St. John, 205£ M. in 12 hrs. ; the Bangor 
and Piscataquis It. R to Moosehead Lake, in 6 hrs., and Katahdin Iron Works ; the 
Shore Line, to Ellsworth and Mt.-Desert Ferry, 8 M. from Bar Harbor. Mt. Desert. 

Stages run to Hampden, Frankfort, Prospect, Stockton, Searsport, and Belfast 
(30 M., fare 82.50 ; leaves early in the morning) ; to Monroe : to Newburg, Ihx- 
mont, Troy, Unity ; to Exeter ; to Kenduskeag, Corinth, and Charleston ; to Glen- 
burn ; to Brewer, Eddington, Clifton, Amherst, and Aurora. 

Bangor, the second city in Maine, and an important and active lumber- 
mart, is a handsome city situated on commanding hills at the head of 
navigation on the Penobscot River. It is about GO M. from the sea, and 
is divided into two parts by the deep ravine in which flows the Kendus¬ 
keag Stream. The business part of the city is situated on the level land 
adjoining this stream on both sides, and has many massive and substantial 
commercial buildings, since Bangor is the trade-centre for a larger area of 
country than is fed by any other New England city. It contains 20,000 
inhabitants (in 1800 it had 277), with 11 banks, 2 daily and 4 weekly 
papers, 5 insurance companies, 5 Masonic lodges, 43 schools, and 14 
churches. The heights on either side of the Kenduskeag are lined with 
well-shaded streets, and have many handsome residences, while there are 
several well-built churches in the same localities. The Custom House and 
Post Office, on the Kenduskeag Bridge, is a neat granite structure. There 
are 240 men engaged in iron-works here, and 150 in the shoe-manufactur¬ 
ing trade, besides which the city has sevei’al small factories and ship¬ 
yards, with a lucrative coasting and foreign trade. The products of the 
rich alluvial basin of the Penobscot are handled here, although, on account 
of the severity of the climate in this high latitude, but a small portion of 
the valley is under cultivation. The tributaries of the Penobscot pene¬ 
trate the great Maine Forest in every direction, and bear downward to 
Bangor immense quantities of lumber, in the sawing and shipment of 
which the city finds its chief industry. The booms in which the descend¬ 
ing logs are caught extend for miles along the river, and a great number 
of saw-mills are in operation along the shores. Up to 1855, 2,999,847,201 
ft. of lumber had been surveyed at Bangor; between 1859 and 1869, 
1,869,965,454 ft of. long lumber were shipped hence; in 1868 alone, 
274,000,000 ft. of short lumber (clapboards, laths, and shingles) were 


31G Route 48. 


BANGOR. 


shipped; and in 1872, 240,500,000 ft. of long lumber were surveyed here. 
The lumber crop of 1S72, in Maine, was about 700,000,000 ft., of which 
225,000,000 floated down the Penobscot, and 100,000,000 passed down 
the Kennebec. To transport this immense amount of lumber to its des¬ 
tined markets, fleets of hundreds of vessels come up to the city, where 
there is a broad expanse of deep water with tides rising over 1G ft. 

The Theological Seminary was chartered by the State of Mass, in 1814, 
and is under the care of the Congregational Church, though its teaching 
is non-sectarian orthodoxy. It occupies buildings fronting on a broad 
campus, in the highest part of the city, and has 5 professors, 40 - 50 
students, and about 700 alumni, with a library of 13,000 volumes. No- 
rombeya Hall is on the Kenduskeag Bridge; its lower portion being used 
as a market, while in the upper hall 2,000 persons can be seated. There is 
a tine Opera House, about as large as the Park Theatre, in Boston. The 
Y. M. C. A. has an elegant new building on Court St. 

It is said that Champlain ascended the Fenobseot as far as the site of Bangor, 
in 1G08. The settlement was made between 1769 and 1775, and in 1791 Rev. Seth 
Noble, its representative, was ordered by the people to have it incorporated under 
the name of Sunbury. Mr. Noble, however, was very fond of the old tune of 
“ Bangor,” and (perhaps inadvertently) had that name given to the new town. In 
1814 the town was taken by a British squadron, after the destruction of the “John 
Adams” ; in 1838 it became a city ; and in 1848 it was declared a port of entry. 
The 2d Maine regiment was raised in 18A around Bangor, and received supe b 
colors from the ladies of New York, Baltimore, and San Francisco. The latter 
Hag was the finest in the army, and was the centre of a terrific light at Bull Run, 
in which the color-guards were all killed, and the opposing regiment (the 7th 
Georgia) was “nearly annihilated.” The flag was not lost, and the regiment was 
the last on the field. At Gaines’ Mill this command took the 5th Alabama flags, 
and at Fredericksburg it lost J of its rank and file. 

Glenburn (Murry's Hotel) is 7 M. N. of Bangor, on Pushaw Lake, which has con¬ 
siderable local fame for its line fishing (bass, perch, and pickerel). 

48. Boston to Bangor. The Penobscot Kiver. 

By the Boston and Bangor Steamship Co. (6 steamers), leaving Foster’s Wharf, 
Boston, June 1 to Oct. 15, daily (Sundays excepted), at 5 P. M. Boston to Kocklard, 
$2.50; to Bangor, 83 50. See new time-tables. Band an l orchestra attached to 
steamers during July and August. The new buildings on Foster's Wharf are con¬ 
venient and comfortable The steamships are large and commodious, and the 
voyage is along the most interesting sections of the historic New-England coast 

In calm Aveather the outside route is very pleasant. The steamer 
passes down Boston Harbor (see page 20) and out on the open sea, ap¬ 
proaching Cape Ann and Thacher’s Island (Route 3G) at late twilight. 
The early riser next morning will see the bold shores of Monliegan Island, 
far out in the ocean. This island was settled in 1G18, and had a stirring 
history for more than a century, but now lias only a few score of inhab¬ 
itants, mostly engaged in the deep-sea fisheries, or wringing scanty crops 
from the rugged thousand acres on the bluffs. The steamer now passes 
in by the historic peninsulas of Knox County, leaves Vinalhaven on the 
E., and rounding Owl’s Head, reaches Rockland, 175 M. from Boston 
(see Route 44). The steamers here connect closely 


BELFAST. 


Route 48. 317 


with the steamer for Mt. Desert. After leaving Rockland, and passing 
Roekport on the 1., the steamer approaches a chain of lofty hills, and 
enters the harbor of Camden (* Hay View House, 100 guests, $2.00 a 
day ; Mountain View). This is a pretty town, with 5 villages, 4,500 in¬ 
habitants, and 9 churches. It was visited by De Monts in 1604, and by 
Weymouth in 1605, was named in honor of Lord Camden, America’s 
friend in Parliament, and was fortified in 1812 to check the British at 
Castine. Pring coasted by this place in 1603, and reported it ‘"'a high 
country, full of great woods,” and such it still is. The tw r o Megunticook 
peaks rise back of the town to the height, respectively, of 1,335 and 1,457 
ft., while Mts. Pleasant, Batty, Hosmer, and others complete the group. 
The * view from Megunticook is one of the noblest of marine prospects, 
embracing the blue Penobscot Bay with its archipelago, Mt. Desert far in 
the E. and a vast sweep of the ocean on the S. E. 

The steamer runs N. for 18 M. between the shores of Lincolnville and 
Northport, and the insular towm of Islesborough, and stops at Belfast 
(Windsor Hotel). This is a handsome little 

city (5,278 inhabitants) built on a declivity which slopes to the water, 
with wide, shady streets, and several commercial blocks built of brick. 
It has 2 banks, 2 weekly papers, 6 churches, several shipyards, and the 
Waldo County buildings. 

This port was discovered by Weymouth in 1605, who set up a cross (Anglican) 
here, and wrote that “ many who had been travellers in sundry countries and in 
most famous rivers, affirmed them not comparable to this,—the most beautiful, 
rich, large, secure, harboring river that the world affordeth.” Belfast was settled 
and named in 1770 by Scotch-Irish Presbyterians from Londonderry (N. H.), and 
was abandoned in 1770, after attacks by the British at Castine. It was resettled 
in 1786, and invested by the British in 1814. In 1865, a destructive fire swept 
over its business quarter, and between 1860 and 1870 its population decreased by 
250. 

Castine is seen far across the bay to the E. as the steamer runs up 7 
M. to Searsport (small hotel), a maritime town with about 17,000 inhabi¬ 
tants, under the lee of Brigadier Island. 

Passing out into the bay, with the historic peninsula of Pentagoet 
(Castine) on the E., the bold shore of Fort Point is soon reached. Here, 
in 1758-9, Gov. Pownall erected a powerful fort for the defence of the 
Penobscot. It was the best fort in Maine, and its construction was paid 
for by Parliament. The British frigate “ Canseau ” partly demolished it in 
1775, and in 1779 Capt. Cargill, of the American army, finished its de¬ 
struction. Some remains of the fort are still visible. 

The * Fort-Point Hotel is finelv situated on this promontory, near the ruins 
of Fort Pownal and the seal-abounding Odom’s Ledge, with beautiful views over 
the island-strewn Bay, the blue Camden Mts., and Castine. It is a first-class 
summer-resort, with 125 rooms and a frontage of 150 ft. There are good con¬ 
veniences for boating, bafciing, fishing, and driving. 

Now steaming N., Wetmore Island is passed on the r. (a barren tract 
with about 400 inhabitants who live by fishing and himting), and the 


318 Route 40. 


OLDTOWN. 


river seems to end, so rapidly does it contract. As the swift tides of 
Bucksport Narrows are entered, a sudden turn reveals the bright village 
of Bucksport ( Robinson House), a shipbuilding and fishing place with 3,000 
inhabitants. This town was settled by Col. Buck, of Haverhill, in 1764, 
and now has two banks, a custom house, several churches, and a lucrative 
country trade. On the hill above the village is the E. Maine Conference 
Seminar}*, a Methodist school with 400 students, from whose lawn beauti¬ 
ful river-views are afforded. On the bluff opposite Bucksport stands Fort 
Knox, an immense and costly fortification built by the U. S., which com¬ 
pletely commands the river with its heavy batteries. 

About 3) M. E. of Bucksport, on the Mt.-Desert branch of the Maine Central 
Rai'-'wl, is Ellsworth ( American House ), a city of 4,800 inhabitants, the capi¬ 
tal oi Haucock County. A railroad runs N. from Buckspor* to Bangor. 

The river now grows more narrow and picturesquely sinuous, while 
vessels are frequently passed. Winterport (Commercial House) is reached 
5 M. above Bucksport, after passing Mt. Waldo and the granite-producing 
shores of Frankfort on the W. 7 M. beyond, the steamer stops at Hamp¬ 
den (Penobscot House), where the U. S. corvette “John Adams,” 24, was 
attacked (while refitting) in 1814 by a small British fleet. Capt. Morris, 
of the “Adams,” had armed shore-batteries with his ship’s guns, but the 
badly officered rural militia were speedily routed by a bayonet-charge of 
the British regulars. Morris then spiked his guns, blew up his ship, and 
retreated with the sailors to Bangor. The British plundered and overran 
Hampden for 3 days. Soon after leaving Hampden, the steamer reaches 
(about noon) the city of Bangor (see Route 47). 

49. Bangor to St. John. 

By the Maine Central and Canadian Pacific Railways, 205J M. Passengers on the 
through train from Boston (by Routes 37 and 47), the celebrated “ Flying Yankee,” 
go through in 22 hrs. (450 M ). Pullmans on day-trains, and sleeping-cars at night. 

Seats on the r. side of the car afford views of the river. After leaving 
Bangor, the train passes Veazie and other stations, with the river covered 
with booms and immense rafts of timber, and lined with saw-mills. Sta¬ 
tions, Orono (the seat of the State Agricultural College), and Oldtown 
(Cousens Hotel), a place of 5,000 inhabitants, mostly engaged in the 
lumber business. The immense and costly booms and mills should be 
noticed here. Oldtown has the largest lumber-mill in the world, where 
100 saws are at work turning the rude logs which come in at one side into 
planks, which are rafted away to Bangor. On an island near the village 
(ferry-boat on the shore) is the home of the Tarratine Indians, one of the 
three tribes of the Etchemin nation. Though the most powerful and war¬ 
like of the northern tribes, the Tarratines rarely attacked the colonists. 

/ 


FREDERICTON. 


Route 49. 319 


After a series of wrongs and insults from the whites, they attacked the 
settlements in 1678, and inflicted such terrible damage and loss of life 
that Maine became tributary to them by the Peace of Casco. After de¬ 
stroying Pemaquid to avenge an insult to their chief St. Castin, they re¬ 
mained quiet for many years. The treaty of 1726 contains the substance 
of their present relations with the State. They own the islands in the 
Penobscot, and have a revenue of $ 6 - 7,000 from the State, which the 
men eke out by working on the lumber rafts, by hunting and fishing, 
while the women make baskets and other trifles for sale. The declension 
of the tribe was marked for two centuries; but it is now slowly increasing. 
The island-village is without streets, and consists of many small houses 
built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons there. 

At Oldtown the line crosses the Penobscot on a high bridge, and enters Milford. 
The 1. bank of the Penobscot is followed through thinly-populated lumbering-towns. 
From Olamon daily stages run 9 M.N. E. to Lowell , whence 12 M. of road, 4 of walk¬ 
ing, and 2 of canoeing (G. Darling, guide, Lowell), le*ds to the lovely Nicatous 
Lake, 9 X 3 M., with innumerable islands and vast woods. Trout, perch, togue, 
bear, deer, and game abound. Guests are accommcdated at Camp Nicatou*. Beyond 
Olamon is Passadunikeag; then Enfield, close to the Coldstream Pond, 5 X 2 M. ; 
then Pollard Brook; Lincoln, whence dany stages to Lee,12 M., Springfield 20,and 
Carroll, 25. Stations, Middletown, Chamberlains, and Winn ( Katahdin House), 
with stages semi-weekly to E. Winn, N. Lee, and Springfield, 14 M. It is a 20M. drive 
to Duck Lake, and 30 M. to the Dobsis Club-IIouse. Mattawamkeag ( Malta - 
wamkeag House) is a busy little hamlet, whence daily stages run 16 M. N. W. to 
Medway ; and N. to .S'. Mohmkus, 7V VI.; Rawson, 14; benedicta, 20; Sherman, 
25 ; and Patten, 35. Stage from Patten, N. to Moro, 12 M. ; Rockabema, 16 ; 

Masardis, 36 ; Ashland, 47 ; Portage Lake, 58 ; Fort Kent, 94. Also, from Patten 
E to Crystal, 5 ; Island Falls, 10^; Smyrna, 25; and Houlton, 37. 
Also, thrice weekly S to Coral, Monarda, and Kingman From Sherman a road 
runs 10 M. W. to the Hunt Farm, whence the ascent of Mt. Katahdin, 5,385 ft. 

The railway now follows the Mattawamkeag River, and runs through 
the forest (almost unbroken) for 58 M. to Vanceboro ( Vanceboro 
House ; restaurant in the station). Weston is a post-town 

with 400 inhabitants and a hotel. This point, 
which may be reached from Danforth, is near the shore of the 

Grand Schoodic Lake, where fine fishing is afforded. Vanceboro has good 
trouting on the St. Croix River, and soon after leaving this village the 
train crosses the St. Croix and enters the Province of New Brunswick. 
At McAdam Junction the New Brunswick Railway is crossed, 

and the train passes on through a monotonous wilderness to Douglas Mt., 
inWelsford, beyond which the St. John Valley is entered, and the river 
is followed down to St. John, 91 M. from Vanceboro. 

By changing cars at Fredericton Junction, travellers pass in 1 hr. to 
Fredericton ( Queen's Hotel; Barker's). Fredericton is a small city of 
6,000 inhabitants, beautifully situated on the St. John River, and distin¬ 
guished as the political capital of the Province. The Government House 
is a plain and dignified stone building in extensive grounds just N. of the 
city, and the Parliament House is a modern structure near the deserted 
Jarracks. The University of New Brunswick has fine buildings on a 
commanding hill near the city. 


320 Route Ifi. 


ST. JOHN. 


* Christ Church Cathedral (Episcopal) is one of the finest on the 
continent, though small. It is of gray stone, in English Gothic archi¬ 
tecture, and has a stone spire, 178 ft. high, rising from the junction 
of the nave and transepts. The interior is beautiful, and the chancel 
has a superb window of Newcastle stained glass, presented by the 
Episcopal Church in the United States. In the centre is Christ cruci¬ 
fied, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, 
and Andrew on the r. In the church tower is a chime of 8 bells, each 
inscribed, 


“ Ave, Pater, Rex, Creator, 
Ave, Fill, Lux* Salvator, 
Ave Spiritus Consotator, 
Ave Beata Unitas. 


Ave, Simplex, Ave, Trine, 
Ave, Regnans in Sublime, 
Ave Resonet sine fine, 

Ave Sancta Trinitas.” 


The St. John River. 

When there is water enough in the river, steamers ascend the St. John River to 
Woodstock, 62 M. N. W., and near lloulton. Steamers leave Fredericton for St. 
John at 8 a. m., arriving there at 3 p. m. Distance, about 90 M. ; fare, $1.00. 

Steamers run daily each way; also from St. John up the river and into the 
Grand and Wasliademoak Lakes. 

As the steamer passes into the stream, a beautiful view of the capital 
city, with its Cathedral and University, is obtained. On the opposite 
shore is the mouth of the Nashwaak River, where stood a fort which was 
a centre of siege 250 years ago. 11 M. below, the village at the mouth of 
the Oromocto River is passed, and the lofty spire of Burton church is soon 
after seen on the r. The boat stops at Sheffield, with its large academy, 
and passes Maugerville, which was settled by Bostonians in 1766. Gage- 
town is next seen, on a bluff opposite the mouth of the Jemseg River, and 
in a rich farming country. Numerous islands are passed, and broad in¬ 
tervales stretch back from the shores. The steamer soon enters the Long 
Reach, which is followed for 20 M., passing the mouth of the Nerepis 
River, with its fortified point, abandoned for two centuries. At Grand 
Bay the scenery grows nobler, and the broad estuary of the Kennebecasis 
River opens to the E. with fine effect. A narrow channel between pic¬ 
turesque palisades is now entered, and followed on swift waters, until a 
glimpse of the Suspension Bridge is gained on the r. as the steamer rounds 
to her pier at Indiantown, a suburb of 


St. John. 

Hotels. — Hotel Pufferin, King Square, 3.50 a day ; New Victoria, Princess St.; 
Waverlev, King St ($2 a day); Royal; and several smaller houses. 

Carriages. — 30 c. a course in the city; 50 c. each half-hour. Stages to 
Indiantown, fare 5 c. 

Railways. — To Fredericton, Bangor, and Boston ; to Woodstock, lloulton, 
and St. Andrews ; to Shediac, Halifax, and Windsor. 

Steamers. — To Eastport, Portland, and Boston ; to Digby and Annapolis; 
to Yarmouth ; to Fredericton. 


THE NEW BRUNSWICK BORDER. Route 50. 321 


St. John, the metropolis of New Brunswick, is a city of 39,000 inhabi¬ 
tants, situated on a rocky promontory between the St. John River and 
Courtnay Bay. Its situation on high hills renders it very picturesque, 
either from within or as seen from the harbor. The streets are broad and 
straight, and King’s and Queen’s Squares and other open grounds diversify 
the surface of the hills. The city has some manufactures and a large 
coast and country trade, and its water-front is worthy of a visit. There 
are 8 Episcopal Churches, 3 Catholic, 9 Baptist, 6 Methodist, 7 Presby¬ 
terian, and 1 Congregational. The Custom House, the Y. M. C. A. build¬ 
ing. the Orphan Asylum, the Post-Office, and Trinity Church, are good 
buildings. The Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception 
is a large stone structure with a lofty spire, and with stained glass 
windows in chancel, transept, and aisles. The ornaments of the choir in 
colored marble are worthy of notice. Near the Cathedral is the Bishop’s 
Palace, and some convent-schools. From this vicinity Reed’s Castle is 
seen, whence a fine view of the city and harbor is obtained. 


The favorite drives are out over Marsh Bridge to Red Head; to the 
Cemetery and Loch Lomond; and over the Suspension Bridge to the 
heights of Carleton. The * Bridge is 640 ft. long and 100 ft. above low 
water, and affords a fine view of the St. John Falls, where the river dashes 
down at low tide through a narrow gorge. At high tide is presented the 
remarkable sight of a river falling up stream, when the tides of the Bay 
of Fundy rush upward through the gorge far above the river Wei. 
From the Lunatic Asylum, or from the Martello Tower on Carleton 
Heights, a panoramic view of the city, the bay, and the remote purple 
line of the Nova Scotia shore, is given. The Mahogany road is a pleasant 
drive near the Bay. 

Champlain discovered and named the St. John River on St. John’s Day, 1604. 
In 1635 Charles St. Estienne, Lord of La Tour, huilta fort here, which was vainly 
attacked by D’Aulney in 1643, the siege being raised by Massachusetts ships 
attacking D’Aulney. During the absence of La Tour in 1645, the fort (under 
command of Madame La Tour) repulsed a naval attack, but was forced, later in 
the year, to surrender. Madame La Tour was made to stand with a rope around 
her neck, while the whole garrison was massacred- 1 She died within a few 
days, and D’Aulney soon followed her. La Tour married Madame D’Aulney in 
1653, and thus rewon his fort. It was soon captured by the English, and left 
desolate for a century. In 1758 a British garrison was established here, and in 
1776 the men of Machias destroyed the fort and cannonaded the neighboring 
village. In 1783 a fleet-full of loyalists rom the United States landed and settled 
here, and since then the city has grown rapidly. 

The great steel cantilever bridge crosses the gorge over the falls of the 
St. John River, and carries the railway into St. John. It cost $600,000. 


X See Whittier's poem of “ St. John. ’ 

14 * 


U 


321 a Route 50. 


EASTPORT. — LUBEC. 


50. The New-Brunswick Border, Eastport to Madawaska. 

The elegant steamers of the International line leave Commercial Wharf, Boston, 
at 8.30 A. M., and Portland at 5 I’. M., Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, for E.st- 
port and St. John, with usual connections. Also leave Boston for St. John, via 
Annapolis, every Thursday at 8 A. M. The Annapolis direct line to Nova Scotia 
Steamer leaves Boston at 8 A. M. every Monday and Thursday. 

The land-route from Boston to Eastport is by the Boston & Maine and Maine 
Central Railroads to Portland, Bangor, and McAdam Junction, where the New- 
Brunswick Railway is taken to Calais or St. Andrews, whence a river-steamboat 
runs to Eastport. 

Eastport (The Quoddy House, $2.50 a day) 
is an American border-town on the coast of Maine, with 5,000 inhabitants 
and 8 churches. It stands on the slope of a hill at the E. end of Moose 
Island, in Passamaquoddy Bay; and is engaged in the fisheries and the 
coasting-trade. Over the village are the ramparts of Fort Sullivan, an 
abandoned military post of the United States, which once commanded the 
harbor with its artillery. Eastport is much visited in summer for the sake 
of the salt-water fishing and the unique marine scenery in the vicinity, 
and has several reputable boarding-houses. It is connected with the main¬ 
land by a bridge, over which lies the road to the Indian village. Eastport 
is the most convenient point from which to reach Campobello, Grand Manan 
and the adjacent islands. In 1814 the U.-S. garrison (of 80 men) at East- 
port surrendered their fort, without fighting, to the Ramillies , ship of the 
line, and !) other war-vessels, with two regiments and a field battery. The 
town remained in the hands of the British for several years after the war 
closed. 

A steam-ferry runs from Eastport 3 M. S. to Lubec ( Cobs- 

cook Hotel), a picturesque marine village towards Quoddy Head, with 
advantages for summer-residents. This pleasant little place is decaying 
slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between I860 and 1880. The 
present population is a little over 2,000, with 0 churches. Lubec is 1 M. 
farther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost town of the 
United States. It is very prettily placed, on a long peninsula, and fronts 
towards Campobello. The purple cliffs of Grand Manan are seen from 
Quoddy Head, on which there is a famous light-house. 

The Frontier Steamboat Company’s boat leaves Calais in time to connect with 
the International steamers, several times a week. Calais to ltobbinston, 15 M., 
75 c. ; to St. Andrews, 17 M., 75 c. : to Eastport, 30 M., $1.25. It connects with 
ferries to Lubec, Campobello, and Grand Manan. 

The Nemattnno is a large summer-hotel at N. Lubec, owned by the 
Y. M. C. A. of New England, whose encampments are held here in August. 


CAMPOBELLO. 


Route 50. 321 6 


Campobello. 

Small steamboats run from Eastport to Campobello hourly. 

The *Tyn-y«Coe<ld (House in the Wood) is a large summer-hotel, pertaining 
to the Campobello Company, and devoted mainly to the accommodation of families. 

The Tyn-y-Maes (House in the Field) is another large modern hotel under 
the same management, and in the same vicinity. 

Campobello is an island 8 M. by 3 in area, lying off the Bay of Fundv, 
and pertaining to the Province of New Brunswick. It has 1,160 inhabi¬ 
tants, most of whom live in two villages, — 1 Velchpool, on a pretty harbor 
to the N., and Wilson's Beach, a populous fishing-settlement on the S. 
shore, settled by squatters, in defiance of the Owens, who frequently 
burned their houses and schooners, but were finally obliged to allow them 
to stay. The fine old Owen roads across the island have been extended 
by new highways opened by the Campobello Company, and afford beauti¬ 
ful drives across the breezy uplands, through leagues of silent evergreen 
forests, and out on sea-beaten promontories. There are a few profitable 
farms on the island, and minerals are found in the hills and glens ; but the 
chief source of income is the fishing business. 

Glen Severn (the ancient Herring Cove ) is a lovely cove on the outer 
shore, with brilliant-hued pebbles, craggy headlands, and a contiguous 
lake of fresh water. Friar's Head, within INI. of the Owen, is a rocky 
pillar in the sea, off cliffs 146 ft. high, and badly battered bv artillery. 
Eastern Head, Harbor de Lute, the lighthouses at the ends of the island, 
and other interesting points, are visited by summer-sojourners. The west¬ 
ern side of Campobello fronts on the beauties of Passamaquoddy Bay, 
around which appear Lubec, Eastport, and other white villages, with the 
purple hills of New Brunswick in the distance. 

Campobello, the ancient Passamaquoddy Island, was granted by the British 
Crown to Admiral William Fitzwilliam Owen in 1767, and that gentleman and his 
heirs, of a nobie naval family, occupied the domain for more than a hundred years. 
The Admiral built a quarter-deck over the rocks, on which he used to promenade 
in full uniform. lie was buried by candle-light, in the churchyard of the little 
Episcopal church, where his descendants have since followed him. 'there are num¬ 
berless quaint legends of the old regime here; of Sir Robert Peel’s visit, and the 
advent of British frigates; of mysterious wrecks, pirates, apparitions, and other 
marvels. After Admiral Owen died, the estate fell ,to his son-in-law, Captain Rob¬ 
inson, of the Royal Navy, who thereupon assumed the Owen name and settled upon 
the island. There was great excitemeut here in 1866, when many armed Irish 
patriots came to Eastport, apparently with a design of invading Campobello, and 
twisting the tail of the British lion. * The island was nearly deserted by its inhabi¬ 
tants ; British frigates and American cutters cruised in the adjacent waters; St. 
Andrews and St. Stephen were garrisoned by British troops: and General Meade 
occupied Eastport with a detachment of United States regulars. The last ol the 
Owens finally moved to England, tired of the monotonous life of the old manor- 
house ; and in 1880 Campobello was purchased by a syndicate of -Boston and New- 
York capitalists, to be made into a summer-resort. Besides the great hotels, many 
summer-cottages and villas have been erected herj by well-known i.imi.ies horn 
Boston, Cambridge, and other cities. 


322 Route 50. 


GRAND MANAN. 


Grand Manan is situated off Quoddy Head, about 7 M. from the Maine 
coast, and pertains to tiie Province of New Brunswick. It is easily readied from 
Eastport, with which it has steamboat communication (2 hrs.). The summer cli¬ 
mate would be delicious were it not for the fogs ; and it is claimed that invalids 
suffering from gout and dyspepsia receive much benefit here (very likely from the 
enforced abstinence from rich food). The brooks and the many fresh-water ponds 
afford fair trouting and bird-shooting, and a lew deer and rabbits are found in the 
woods. Neat rooms and simple fare may there be obtained for §4-7 a week. The 
Marble-Ridge House is at North Head. 

The island of Grand Manan is 22 M. long and 3-G M. wide, and lies in 
the mouth of the Bay of Fund}', whose powerful tides sweep impetuously 
by its shores. It has about 2,700 inhabitants, who dwell along the road 
which connects the harbors, and are famous for their fisheries. 

Grand Harbor is the chief of the island hamlets, and has an Episcopal 
church of stone, besides a small inn. The South Shore is reached by a 
good road leaning down from Grand Harbor. At 5 M. distance is the 
narrow harbor of Seal Cove, beyond which the road lies nearer to the sea, 
affording fine marine views on the 1., including the Wood Islands and 
the Gannet Rock Lighthouse, 9-10 M. at sea. 4 M. beyond Seal Cove 
the road reaches Broad Cove, whence a path leads across the downs for 
about 2 M. to the high and ocean-viewing cliffs of S. W. Head. Among 
the rugged and surf-beaten rocks of this bold promontory is one which is 
called the Southern Cross. 

Stages and steamers run 30 M. N. W. from Eastport to Calais. The 
steamer moves out across the broad and island-studded bay, passing on the 
1. Pleasant Point (in Perry), the home of the 4G0 remaining members of the 
Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation of Indians. The first stopping- 
place is St. Andrews (* Hotel Algonquin, a first-class summer-resort), a deca¬ 
dent maritime town on a long promontory, with facilities for bathing, boat¬ 
ing, and fishing. St. Andrew is the shire-town of Charlotte County, N. B., 
and is the terminus of the New Brunswick Railway. Beyond this port the 
hay narrows rapidly, and Neutral Island (with its lighthouse) is passed, 
opposite Robbinston. Henri IV. of France granted Acadia (an indefinite 
district, embracing Nova Scotia, New Brunswick, and as much more as 
he could get) to the Sieur de Monts in 1602. In 1604 the grantee brought 
over a colony (mostly of Huguenots) and settled on this island, which 
he fortified strongly. During the mournful winter of 1604-5, 36 out of 
70 of the colonists died, either from scurvy, or from drinking water 
poisoned by the Indians. Remains of De Monts’ fort may be seen on the 
island (which belongs to the U. S.). Robbinston village is now touched at, 
and then the steamer passes up by Oak Point and Devil’s Head to Calais 
(Border City Hotel; St. Croix Exchange). This is a city of about 7,000 
inhabitants, with 2 banks, 2 weekly papers, and 6 churches. It was 
founded in 1789, and has a large shipbuilding and lumber business. 

A railway runs 20 M. N. W. from Calais to Lewey’s Island (in Princeton ; two 
inns),, whence the picturesque Schoodic Lakes may be entered. The steamer 
"Naiad" runs (irregularly, for lumbering work) on Lewey’s, Big, and Long Lakes. 
There is a large village of Passamaquoddy Indians on one of these lakes, and 
hunting and fishing parties from the coast cities often pass the summer here, 
roughing it in canoes and in the forest. 

Mail-stages from Calais to Eastport; also (from Princeton) to Grand-Lake Stream. 


WOODSTOCK. 


Route 50. 32 3 


A covered bridge leads from Calais to St. Stephen ( Queen Hotel), a 
New-Bmnswick town of 5,000 inhabitants and 5 churches. The citizens 
of Calais and of St. Stephen have always lived in fraternity, and formed 
and kept an agreement by which they refrained from mutual hostility 
during the War of 1812. 

From this point the New-Brunswick Railway runs W. through the 
forest (crossing Route 49 at McAdam Junction) to Debec, 74 M. distant, 
whence a branch road runs (in 11 M.) to Woodstock, the shire-town of 
Carleton County, N. B. This town has 4,000 inhabitants, and is pleas¬ 
antly situated on the St. John River, 150 M. from its mouth. A railroad 
runs through Tobique to Grand Falls ( Grand-Falls Hotel), where the 
river is contracted into a narrow gorge between lofty cliffs, and plunges 
over a succession of rocky steps, the first leap being 40 ft. perpendicular. 
The railway continues up the river to Edmundston (Hotel Babin), whence 
the Temiscouata Railway runs to Riviere du Loup, on the St. Lawrence 
River (see page 385). 

From Debec a branch railioad runs N. W. 8 M. to Houlton {Snell 
House), the shire-town of Aroostook County, Maine, with a population of 
4,000, 2 weekly papers, and 5 churches. Houlton is 450 M. (by railway) 
from Boston, and has stage-routes running to all parts of N. E. Maine. 

Stages run S. through Hodgdon, Amity, Orient, Weston (30 M.); through Lin- 
neus ; to Smyrna (W.); by Littleton, Mon ticello, Bridgewater (dinner at Half-Way 
House), and Westfield, to Presque Isle ; also N. by Mars Hill and Easton, to F. ro 
Fairfield. 

Presque Isle {Phair Hotel) is a forest-town of 3,000 inhabitants, with 
valuable starch and lumber mills and machine-shops, two newspapers, 
and an academy. It is on the Canadian Pacific Railway (N. B. Div.). It 
is 42 M. N. of Houlton, and the centre of rich farming lands, which cover 
500,000 acres, and are being settled on account of their variety, cheapness, 
and fertility. Many Swedes live here; and Madawaska is a populous 
French district. Good fishing and pleasant scenery abound in the vicinity. 
12 M. N. E. is Fort Fairfield, on the New-Brunswick Railway, 3 M. 
from Aroostook Falls. Caribou village is picturesquely situated, 12 M. N. 

Stages run from Presque Isle to Houlton ; al-o to Ashland, 26 M. W., whence a 
lumber road runs VV. bv the Allagash Mts. to the I a^e of Seven Isles, a little above 
the head of tow-boat navigation on the St. John River, and over 80 M. from Ash¬ 
land. This road passes through the heart of the great forest. “The primeval 
woods of Maine still cover an extent seven times that of the famous Black Forest 
of Germany at its largest expanse in modern times. The States of R. I., Conn., 
and Delaware could be lost together in our northern forests, and still have about 
each a margin of wilderness sufficiently wide to make the exploration without a 
compass a work of desperate adventure. '’ 

Fort Fairfield (Collins House) is on the frontier, on the railroad running from 
Presque Isle to Aroostook .Junction (N. B.) on the St. John River. It has nearly 
3,000 inhabitants, with 5 churches. 

A railway leaving the Canadian Pacific line at Aroostook Junction runs to Fort 
Fairfield, Caribou, and Presque Isle. Stages run from Caribou to New Sweden, 
Jemtland, Acadia, Van Buren, and Presque Isle. 


324 Route 50. 


MADAWASKA. 


Dailv stages run on the Military Road, to Fort Kent , 80 M. N. W. of 
Presque Isle. This route, crosses and follows the Aroostook River to 
Caribou, and then runs for 23 M. through the forest to Van Buren ( Van 
Buren House), a semi-French settlement (1,200 inhabitants), with a Cath¬ 
olic college, on the St. John, above Grand Falls. The road now turns N. 
W. and follows the St. John 15 M. to Grant Isle ( Cyr's Hotel), opposite 
St. Basil, with its great convent, 10 M. beyond which is Madawaska 
(Fournier House), a village belonging to a large district which has long 
been inhabited by Acadian French, who were expelled from Nova Scotia 
(Acadie) in 1755. There are several thousand of these Catholic and 
“pious Acadian peasants,” divided into four parishes; and here the tourist 
may perhaps find an “Evangeline.” (The poem has been translated into 
Canadian French, and is popular.) The Eagle Lakes lie S. of this village, 
which is 100 M. N. of Houlton. 31 M. from Grant Isle (the stage follow¬ 
ing the St. John River, and passing through Frenchville), Fort Kent 
(Eagle Hotel), with its two inns and ruined block-house, is reached. The 
population is still French, and 16 M. S. W. is St. Francis, another Acadian 
village. Semi-weekly stages run 48 M. S. from Fort Kent through the 
Eagle-Lakes region and bv Portage Lake to Ashland, whence daily stages 
to Presque Isle, 26 M., and tri-weekly stages 78 M. S. by Masardis, Sher¬ 
man, and Molunkus to Mattawamkeag 

Fort Kent is 194 M. from Bangor, and 440 M. from Boston. 


The Canadian Pacific Railway crosses the wilderness of Maine, from 
Mattawamkeag by Moosehead Lake to Lake Megantic, on its way westward 
from St. John to Montreal and Vancouver’s Island. It affords a noble first- 
class route through a wild and picturesque region, hitherto but little known 
to pleasure-travellers. 

NEW YORK CITY TO THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 

Having described New England and her eastern frontier in the 50 pre¬ 
ceding routes, it has been thought advisable to add thereto a brief survey 
of those most interesting regions which lie on the west and north of her 
borders. The tourist might easily arrange a profitable and pleasant sum¬ 
mer-trip, by taking either of the Routes, 3, 8, 19, or 21, to New York, 
thence ascending the Hudson to Albany, and passing to Montreal by way 
of Saratoga and Lakes George and Champlain, whence Quebec and the 
Saguenay are easily reached ; and the return to Boston could be effected by 
either of the Routes, 24 (and 25) or 40 (and 37 or 38.) 



NEW-YOliK CITY. 


Route, 51. 325 


51. New-York City. 

Hotels.—Of the hundreds of hotels in New York, we give a list of 40 from 
amoug the best. “Eu.” signifies that the hotel is on the European plan, giving 
rooms at from SI a day upward, and guests can take meals at the hotel or else¬ 
where, paying for what they order, a la carte. A few hotels charge from $2 up¬ 
ward for rooms. “ Am.” signifies that the hotel is on the American plan, at a 
fixed price per day, covering rooms and all meals. 

Rear Madison Square , the chief houses are the * Fifth-Avenue Hotel, at 5th 
Ave. and 23d St., fronting the Square (Am., from S5 a day upward); * Hotel 
Brunswick, 225 5th Ave., on the Square (Am. and Eu.); Hotel Bartholdi, Broad¬ 
way and 23d St. (Eu.); * Hoffman House, 1111 Broadway, on Madison Sq. (Eu.); 
Park-Avenue Hotel, 4th Ave. and 32d St. (Am. —$3.50 a day — and Eu.): Victo¬ 
ria, Broadway and 27th St. and 5th Ave. (Am.); Gilsey House, Broadway and 29th 
St. (Eu.); Sturtevant House, 1186 Broadway, corner 29th St. (Am.l ; Hotel Glen- 
ham, 155 5th Ave., near 21st St. (Eu.) ; Albemarle, Broadway and 24th St. (Eu.); 
St. James, 1133 Broadway, corner 26th St. (Eu.); Coleman House, 1169 Broadway, 
corner 27th St. (Eu.); Ashland House, 4th Ave. and 24th St. (Am. and Eu.). 

Near Union Square: Westminster, Irving Place and E. 16th St. (Am.); Union- 
Square, 16 Union Square (Eu.); Everett, 4th Ave. and 17th St. (Eu.); Clarendon, 
4th Ave. and 18th St. (Am. and Eu.). 

Up-town, or near Grand Central Station : * Holland House,5th Ave. and 30th St. 
(Eu.); * Plaza Hotel, 5th Ave. and 59th St., at entrance to Central Park ; * Windsor 
Hotel, 5th Ave. and 46th St. (Am., from $5 a day upward); * Murray-Hill Hotel, 
Park Ave. and 41st St. (Am. and Eu.); * Hotel imperial, Broadway and 32d St. 
(Eu.); * Buckingham Hotel, 5th Ave. and 50th St., opposite the Cathedral (Eu.); 
Hotel Marlborough, Broadway and 36th St. (Am. and Eu.) ; Bristol, 5th Ave. and 
42d St. (Am.); Birrett House, Broadway and 43d St. (Eu.) ; Hotel Normandie, 
Broadway and 3sth St. (Eu.); Langham, 5th Ave. and 52d St. (Eu.); Hotel Ven- 
dome, 41st St., near Broadway (Am. and Eu.) ; Hotel Royal, 6th Ave. and 40th St. 
(Am.‘and Eu.) ; Grand Hotel, Broadway and 31st St. (Eu.); Madison-Avenue 
Hotel, Madison Ave. and 58th St. (Am. and Eu.) ; Grand Union, 42d St., opposite 
Grand Central Station (Eu.) ; the Metropole, Broadway and 42d St. (Am.). 

Doum-toicn: Astor House, Broadway amj Yesey St., opposite Post Office (Eu.); 
Broadway Central Hotel, 671 Broadway, near Bleecker St. (Am. and Eu.); New- 
York Hotel, 721 Broadway, near Astor Place (Am.); Brevoort House, 11 5th Ave , 
corner of 8th St. (Eu.); Metropolitan, 584 Broadway, corner of Prince St. (Am.); 
St. Denis, Broadway and 11th St., near Grace Church (Eu.). 

These great hotels are amply supplied with all the luxuries of modern American 
civilization ; and several of them cost far over $1,000,000 each. The Holland, 
Imperial, and Plaza are among the newest and most magnificent of them. English¬ 
men frequent the Brevoort and Clarendon ; Bostonians, the Murray-Hill ; South¬ 
erners, the New-York ; Spaniards, the Recreo (15 Irving Place) and Espanol (116 
W. 14th St.); and Frenchmen, the Hotel Fran<jais (17 University Place). 

Restaurants. — The most famous in America is * Delmonico's, at Broadway 
and 26rh St. Delmonicoalso has restaurants at 22Broad St., 2 South-William St., 
and 341 Broadway. The Hotel Brunswick, at 5th Ave. and 26th St., is not inferior 
to Delmonico’s. There are excellent restaurants in the Murray-Hill, Gilsey, Hoff¬ 
man, St. James, Grand Union, Park Avenue, Marlborough, and the other European- 
plan hotels. 

Ladies visit Purssell’s, 919 Broadway; Clark’s, 22 W. 23d St. ; the Vienna 
Bakery ; the St. Denis ; the Dairy Kitchen (Union Sq.), etc 

The chief down-town restaurants are : the Astor-House rotunda ; the New-York 
and Metropolitan Hotels: Cable’s, Broadway, near Pine St. : Sutherland's, 64 
Liberty St. ; Cafd Savarin, in Equitable Building, 120 Broadway ; Nash & 
Brush’s, 18 Park Place; Robins and Foy’s, John St. Smith & McNeil, opposite 
Washington Market, feed more people than any other restaurant in America. 

Oysters , at Dorlon's, in Fulton Market, and 108 E. 23d St.; chops , at Eschbach’s, 
4th Ave., near 20th St., and at Old Tom's, behind Trinity Church ; game , at the 
Parker, Broadway and 34th St. ; coffee and rolls, at the Vienna Bakery, Broadway 
and 10th St. ; German cuisine, Sieghortner’s (32 Lafayette Place), Broadway and 
Barclay St., Broadway and Chambers St., 21 Frankfort St., 349 Broadway ; Hun - 


326 lioutt 5i, 


NEW-YORK CITY. 


garian wines and table d'hote (75 ets.) 4 Union Sq. : French cuisine , at Yianest’g, 
Delisle’s, and Mouquin's, on Fulton St.; Italian cuisine , Martiuelli, 136 5th Ave. 
(table d'hote , $1.25); Morello, 29ih St'. ($1.25) ; Moretti, 12 E. 21st St. ($1); 
Riccadouna, 42 Union Sq. ; ISpanish cuisine , 13 Broadway. 

Heading-Rooms. — In all the chief hotels (for guests) ; Y. M. C. Associa¬ 
tion, corner 23d St. and 4th Ave. Astor Library, Lafayette Place, open 9£-5 ; 
City Library, City Hall, open fiee to all, 10-4 ; Cooper Union, comer 7th St. and 
4th Ave., open from 8 a. m. to 10 p. m. 

Post-Office, at the foot of City-Hall Park, open continuously except Sundays, 
when it is only open between 9 and 11 a. m. There are numerous sub post-offices 
(Stations), which are alphabetically designated. 

Carriages. — Frequent changes are made in the legal rates, which, however, 
are but lightly binding on the drivers. Attempts are being made to introduce 
a modification of the London cab-system into New York, with comparatively 
low fares and courteous drivers. A tariff of fares is (or should be) hung in 
each carriage, but the drivers frequently attempt to extort undue sums from their 
passengers. In such cases, since the liaekmen of New York are the most ruf¬ 
fianly or their class in the world, an instant appeal should be made to the first 
policeman who may be seen. 

Omnibuses (called “stages’’) run along 5th Ave. from Washington Sq. to 
Central Park (fare, 5 cents). 

Horse-Cars.—The fare on most of the lines is 5 c. (1) Park Place to 
Central Park, by Church and Greene Sts. and 7th Ave. ; (2) Astor House (Vesey 
St.) to Central Park, by West Broadway, Varick St., and 6tli Ave. ; (3) Astor 
House to Central Park, by Canal, Hudson, and 8th Ave. ; (4) Astor House to 
Grand Central Depot and Harlem, by Park Row, Chatham St., Bowery, and 3d 
Ave. ; (5) Astor House to Hunter’s Point Ferry, by Park Row, Centre, Grand, 
Bowery, 4th Ave., 32d and 34th Sts. ; (6) Astor House to 34th St. Ferry, by 
Chatham St., East Broadway, Avenues B. and A., and 1st. Ave. ; (7) Astor 
House to 86th St., by Centre, Bowery, 4th and Madison Aves. ; (8) corner 
Broadway and Canal St. to 43d St., by Varick St. and 6tli Ave. ; (9) corner 
Broadway and Canal St. to Central Park, by Canal, Hudson, and 8th Ave.*; (10) 
corner Broadway and Ann St. through Chatham, East Broadway, Avenues B. 
and A. ; (11) corner Broadway and Broome to Central Park, by 7th Ave. ; (12) 
corner Broadway and Fulton to 54th St,, by Greenwich St. and 9th Ave. ; (13) 
Peck Slip to Harlem (128th St.), by Oliver St., Bowery, and 2d Ave. ; (14) South 
Ferry to Central Park, by West St. and 10th Ave. ; (15) South Ferry to Central 
Park, by the East River Ferries, 1st Ave., and 59th St. ; (16) Fulton Ferry 
through Centre and Bleecker Sts. to 10th Ave. ; (17) Grand St. Ferry to Des- 
brosses St. Ferry, by Grand and Vestry Sts. ; (18) Grand St. Ferry to Cortlandt 
St. Ferry; (19) Grand St. Ferry to 4 2d St. (Weehawken) Ferry ; (20) corner 
Chambers and West Sts. to 42d St. Depot. 

Flevatcd Railways (10 c.) run from the Battery to the Harlem River, by 4 
routes: (1) by 6th Ave.; (2) by Bowery and 3d Ave.; (3) by 2d Ave.; (4) by 9th 
Ave. Stations at about every half-mile. Trains every few minutes. 

Ferries. — To Astoria, from 92d Sfr., and from Peck Slip ; to Blackwell's Island, 
from 26th St. ; to Brooklyn, from Whitehall, Wall, Fulton, Roosevelt, Catharine, 
Grand, 23d, and Houston Sts ; to Governor's and Bedloe's Islands, from the Bat¬ 
tery, hourly ; to Greenpoint, from 10th and from 23d Sts.; to Hunter's Point, from 
■James Slip and from 34th St.; to Randall’s Island, from 26th and from 122d Sts.; 
to Ward's Island, from 115th St. ; to Jersey City, from Cortlandt, Desbrosses, Cham¬ 
bers, 23d, and 34th Sts. ; to Hoboken, from Barclay, 14th, and Christopher Sts. ; to 
Weehawken. from 42d St. ; to Bay Ridge, from Whitehall St.; to Staten Island, 
from Whitehall St. ; to Fort Lee, from Canal and 129th Sts.; and Jay St. 

Theatres.—The Metropolitan Opera House, Broadway and 40th St., is the 
home of the German and Italian grand opera. The foremost standard theatres are 
Daly's and Palmer’s, both at Broadway and 30th St.; the Madison-Square, 4 W. 
24th St.; Fifth-Avenue, Broadway and 28th St.; Union-Square, 56 E. 14th St. ; 
14th-Street, near 6th Ave.; Lyceum, 4th Ave. and 23d St. ; Harrigan's, 35th St. ; 
Star, Broadway and 13th St.; Grand Opera House, 8th Ave. and 23d St. The 
Bijou Opera House (Broadway, near 30th St.) is devoted to comic opera. The 



NEW YORK. 


1. City Hall 

2. Court House 

3 - 

4. New Post Office 

5. Custom House 

6. Sub-Treasury 

7. Castle Garden 


C. 7 . 

D. 7. 

C. 7. 

D. 8. 
D.7. 
C.$. 

T\ 4. . O. 

g. Cooper Institute D.5. 

10. Y.M.C. Association C.3. 

11. Acad, of Design C.3. 

12 . 

13. Reservoir 

14. Bellevue Hospital 

15. St. Luke’s ,, 

16. Inst, for the Blind B.3. 
I J.FivePoints Mission D.6. 
18. R.C.Orphan Asylum 


C.7. 47. Grand Union 

48. Brandreth 

49. Astor 

50 . 

51. Hoffman 

52. Everett 

53. St. Denis 


D .2 

C.6 

C. 7 

D. 7 
C -3 
C -4 

C.D.4 


THEATRES. 

54. Grand Opera House B.3. 


C.4. 

C.2. 

E.3. 

C.i. 


55. Acad, of Music 

56 . 

57. Union Square 

58. Niblo’s 

59. Steinway Hall 


D. 4 . 

C- 3 - 

D.4. 

D- 5 - 

D.4. 


c 


C.i. 

ig .Woman’s Hospital D.i. 
20. Astor Library D.; 


DEPOTS. 

60. Grand Central 

61. Spuyten Duyvil 


C.2. 

B. 3 . 


62. Long Island R.R. F.2. 


II.University of N.Y. C.5. 63 .Morris & Essex „ A.5. 
22. Columbia College C.i. 6 4 - Erie A.6. 


23. College of N. Y. D.3. 

24. Gen. Theolog. Son. B.4. 

25. WashingtonMarket C.7. 


26. Fulton 


D.7. 


C.7. 


CHURCHES. 

27. Trinity 

28. St. Paul’s 

29. New Cathqff ra i 

30. Gracjp 

3 ?< Christ 

32. St. Thomas 

33. Transfiguration 

34. Epiphany 
‘ 35. Temple Emanuel C.2. 

36. St. Paul (Meth.) D .3 

37. Brick (Pres.) 


C.7. 

C. i. 

D. 4. 
C.2. 
C.i. 

C. 3. 

D. 2. 


65. For the South A.7. 

66. Central(N.J.)R.RA\S. 

SQUARES. 

67. Washmgton C.5. 

68. Tompkins 
6g. Union 

70. Madison 

STEAMERS. 

71. Sag Harbor and 

New Haven D.7. 

72. Albany B.6. 


E.4,5. 

C.4. 

C.3. 


j 

C.2. 


BROOKLYN. 


73. City Hall 

74. Court House 


F.8. 
F.8. 

38. St. George (Epis.) D.4. ” pg$t ^ F.8. 

- 39- All Souls ( Unit.) D.4. , ^ Mercantl U Library F.8. 

[ 77. Academy of Music F.8. 

CHURCHES. 

78. Pilgrim’s F.S- 

79. Plymouth (Beecher's) 

C.3. E - 8 

C. 5. 80. Holy Trinity 

D. 5. 81. St. Ann’s 
D.5. 82. OurSavior( t/«*#.)F.8. 


40. Messiah 

41. Fourth Univ. 

42. St. Patrick 


C.2. 
C.2. 
D- 5 - 


HOTELS. 


43. Fifth Avenue 

44- 

45. Grand Central 

46. Metropolitan 


F.8. 

F.8. 


























































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































































NEW-YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 327 


famous old Academy of Music is at E. 14th St. and Irving Place. The Casino gives 
light operas and comedies, and has a cafe and summer-garden on its roof. German 
plays at Amberg's Theatre (15th St. and Irving Place), and the Thalia Theatre, 45 
Bowery. The Madison-Square Garden, at Madison Ave.and 26th St., is one of the 
most wonderful play-houses in the world, and contains? the beautiful Garden 
Theatre, an immense ball for band-concerts and other performances, a concert- 
room, and a ball-room. 

Varieties , at Tony Pastor r s theatre. Wax-works , at the Eden Mus<5e, 23d St., 
near 6th Ave. Concert - Varieties , at Koster & Bial’s, 23d St., between 6th and 7th 
Aves. The Bowery concert-saloons should be avoided. 

Railroads. — Across Staten Island to Tottenville, Pier 1, E. R. ; to Phila¬ 
delphia, by Trenton (90 M.) from foot of Cortlandt St. ; by S. Amboy (92 M.) ; to 
Easton, Pa., from foot of Liberty St. ; to Greenport, Long Island (foot of James 
St.); to Flushing; to Hackettstown ; to Long Branch ; to Albany (144 M.) sta¬ 
tion corner of 42d St. and 4th Ave. ; to Albany (by the Harlem R. R.), from the 
42d St. station ; to New Haven and Boston, from the corner of 4th Ave. and 42d 
St. The Erie Railway (ferry) stations are at the foot of Chambers and of 23d St. 

Steamers. — Transatlantic lines — for Liverpool, the White Star and Cunard 
Lines, Piers at Jersey City ; Inman Line, Pier 45, N. R. ; U. S. Mail Line, Pier 
46 ; National Line, Piers 44 and 47, N. R. ; for Liverpool and Glasgow, Anchor 
Line, Pier 20, N. R. ; for London, Piers 44 and 47, and 3, N. R. ; for Havre, Pier 
50, N. R. ; for Hamburg and Bremen, Piers at Hoboken ; for Antwerp ; for the 
Mediterranean ports. West Indian lines —for Havana, Atlantic Mail Line, Pier 
4, N. R. ; for Havana and Vera Cruz, Pier 17, E. R. ; for Hayti, Nassau, and the 
Bermudas. For St. Thomas and Brazil (monthly), Pier 43, N. R. ; lor St. Domin¬ 
go and Samana Bay. For Panama and San Francisco (semi-monthly), Pier 42, N. 
R. The American coast — for Key West and Galveston (tri-monthly). Pier 20, E. 
R. ; for New Orleans (3 weekly steamers). Piers 9 and 12, N. R., and 20, E. R. ; 
for Fernandina, Pier 29, N. R. ; for Savannah (,two weekly steamers). Piers 13 and 
36, N. R. ; for Charleston (thrice weekly). Piers 5 and 8, N. R. ; for Newbern (tri¬ 
monthly), Pier 16, E. R. ; for Norfolk and Richmond (tri-weekly). Pier 37, N. R. ; 
tor Washington and Alexandria (semi-weekly), Pier 29, E. R. ; for Philadelphia, 
the piers from which the steamboats leave are sometimes changed. See the daiiy 
papers. 

Coastwise and river lines — to Yonkers, Tarrytown, West Point, Newbnrg, 
Poughkeepsie, Hudson, Albany, and Troy, from Pier 39, N. R. (morning boat), 
and from Pier 41, N. R. (evening boat); other river-steamers are at Piers 49, 35, 
34, 51, and 43 ; to Elizabethport. and Kill Von Kull, from Pier 14, N. R. (thrice 

daily); to Staten Island (North Shore) hourly, from Pier 19, N. R.-(South 

Shore), from Whitehall; to Elizabethport and Perth Amboy, from Pier 26 ; to 
Long Branch, from Pier 35 ; to Sandy Hook, from Pier 28 ; to Newark, from Pier 
26 ; to S. Amboy, from Pier 1, N. R. ; to Astoria and Harlem, 12 times daily, from 
Pier 24, E. R. (Peck Slip) ; to Bay Ridge, from Pier 15. E. R., 6 times daily ; to 
Great Neck, Glen Cove, Roslyn, and Whitestone, from Pier 24, E. R. ; to College 
Point and Flushing, from Pier 22, E. R. ; to Huntington and Oyster Bay, from 
Pier 37, E. R. ; to^Greenport and Orient, from Pier 4, N. R. ; to High Bridge and 
Kingsbridge, from Harlem Bridge ; to Morrisania, from Pier 22, E. R. ; to Sag 
Harbor, from Pier 4, N. R. Steamers leave for Greenwich and Stamford from 
Pier 37, E. R. ; for Norwalk, from Pier 37, E. R. ; for Bridgeport, from Pier 35, 
E. It. : for Stratford and Milford, from Pier 37, E. R. ; for New’ Haven, from Pier 
25, E. R. (afternoon and evening); for Hartford arid the Conn. River ports, from 
Pier 24 E. R ; for New London (and Boston), from Pier 40, N. R. ; for Stoning- 
ton (and Boston), from Pier 33, N. R. : for Newport, Fall River (and Boston), 
from Pier 28, N. R. ; for Providence, from Pier 27, N. R. 



328 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


New York City, the commercial metropolis of the United States and 
the chief city of the Western Hemisphere, is situated on Manhattan 
Island, at the mouth of the Hudson River, in latitude 40° 42' 43" N., 
and longitude 3° T 13" E. from Washington. The population of the city 
in 1890 was 1,513,501. The island isl3| M. long, and 1-2 M. wide (con¬ 
taining 22 square M.), and is bounded on the W. by the Hudson River, 
on the E. by the East River, on the N. by Harlem River and Spuyten 
Duyvil Creek, while its S. end looks out on the Bay of New York. The 
lower part of the island consists of alluvial deposits, but low, rocky ridges 
are found in the central part, which ascend to the cliffs of Washington 
Heights on the N. The city extends for 5-6 M. N. from the Battery, 
and the district above the densely settled streets is studded with villas, 
public and charitable buildings, and market-gardens. The grand avenue 
called Broadway runs from the lower end of the island to the Central 
Park, beyond which the broad and costly Boulevard conducts to the N. 
end. The city is laid out somewhat irregularly from the Battery to 14th 
St. (2J M.), but beyond that line a succession of straight, parallel streets 
extend from river to river, and are crossed at right angles by broad ave¬ 
nues running lengthwise of the island. The Bay of New York is one of 
the most picturesque in the world, and affords a safe anchorage for the 
largest commercial lleets and the great vessels of the European steamship¬ 
lines. The inner harbor is entered through a deep strait called the Nar¬ 
rows, which is defended by the most powerful and imposing fortifications 
and armaments in the Western world. 

The site of New York was discovered by the Florentine mariner, Verrazzani, in 
the year 1524. The harbor was again visited by Hendrick Hudson, commanding 
a vessel of the Dutch East India Company (Sept. 3, 1609), and from the scene of 
wassail and merriment which followed the meeting of the sailors and the natives, 
the Indians named the island Manhattan (“the place where they all got drunk ”). 
Hudson then ascended the river since named in his honor to the site of Albany, 
and claimed the land, by right of discovery, as an .appanage of Holland, under 
the name of the New Netherlands. In 1614 a Dutch colony came over, and built 
4 houses and a fort (near the present Bowling Green), naming the place New Am¬ 
sterdam, in honor of that city which had taken the foremost pan in the enter¬ 
prise. In 1664, Peter Stuyvesant being Captain-General and the place having 
about 1,800 inhabitants. King Charles II. of England granted all the land from the 
Connecticut to the Delaware River to his brother, the Duke of York, and an 
English fleet under Capt. Nichols captured New Amsterdam and named it New 
York. A Dutch fleet retook the place in 1673 (the population being about 2,500), 
but it was soon restored to England by treaty. Gov. Sir Edmund Andros was 
ousted by the people (a few years later), and Jacob Leisler took his place, and 
ruled amid the trials and terrors of bitter political struggles and sanguinary in¬ 
vasions from Canada. In 1700 the city had about 6,000 inhabitants ; in 1702 the 
first free grammar school was opened ; in 1711 a slave-market was opened in Wall 
St. ; in 1725 the New York Gazette was established ; and in 1732 a c lassical academy 
was founded. The commerce of the city increased rapidly, and its merchants 
took a bold and decided stand against the unjust aggressions of Parliament. The 
American army under Washington occupied the city in 1776, but the British troops 
who had abandoned Boston landed on Long Island, and after a severe battle near 
Brooklyn, Washington was forced to retreat. Other actions at White Plains and 
King’s Bridge resulted in great damage to the Ameiacans, and New York was left 
in the hauds of the British, who occupied it for seven years. Part of the city was 


NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 329 


burnt, part of it was turned into barracks, hospitals, and prisons, and thousands 
of Americans were confined on floating hulks in the East River. Nov. 25, 1783, 
the British left, and Washington and the Governor of the State entered in triumph. 
The first Federal Congress met here, and here, in 1789, Washington was inaugu¬ 
rated President (the city then having 33,000 inhabitants ; in 1800 it had 60,489). 
The first steamer was put on the Hudson in 1807, and the Erie Canal was com¬ 
pleted in 1825, amid splendid celebrations in the city and State. Gas was intro¬ 
duced in I$25 ; in 1832 the Asiatic cholera carried off 4,360 persons; in 1835 a 
great lire destroyed $ 20,000,000 worth of property ; and in 1837 the great financial 
crisis ruined thousands. The Croton Aqueduct was completed in 1842, and a 
fire in 1845 caused a loss of S 7,000,000. The city has grown rapidly since the in¬ 
troduction of the railway system, and the most remote parts of the States are 
reached by its immense lines of track. Scores of ocean-steamers and fleets of 
packet-ships bring in the products of all other continents, and bear away full 
cargoes of Western grain, or the manufactures of the Middle and Eastern States. 
In 1820 New York had 123,706 inhabitants ; in 1840, 312,710 : in 1860, 813.669 ; 
and in 1870, 928,341. There are but two larger cities (London and Paris) in Chris¬ 
tendom, and if the population of the close-lying suburbs of Brooklyn, Williams¬ 
burg, and Jersey City were added to that of New York, it would be the sixth city 
in the world. 

The Battery is a park at the S. end of Manhattan Island, containing 
31 acres, and adorned with large trees and verdant lawns. The water¬ 
front is secured by a sea-wall of massive masonry, above which is a broad 
promenade which affords admirable * views of the Bay. The populous 
heights of Brooklyn are in the E., with Governor’s Island nearer at hand, 
on which the high walls of Castle William are seen, with the embank¬ 
ments of the less imposing but more powerful Fort Columbus, a star-fort 
mounting 120 heavy cannon. Ellis and Bedloe’s Islands are seen farther 
down the harbor, with the long hill-ranges of Staten Island beyond, and 
Jersey City on the W. The curious round structure on the Battery was 
built for a fort {“ Castle Clinton ”) in 1807, was ceded to the city in 1823, 
and was the scene of the civic receptions of the Marquis Lafayette, Gen. 
Jackson, President Tyler, and others. It then became an opera-house, 
where Jenny Lind, Sontag, Parodi, Jullien, Mario, &c., made their appear¬ 
ance. The building was long used as a depot for immigrants, received from 
their ships, and sent thence to their destinations. From Whitehall, on 
the E. of the Battery, the Staten-Island, South, and Hamilton (Brooklyn) 
ferry-boats start, besides several horse-car and stage lines. Boatmen may 
be engaged here for trips in the harbor. From this point South St. follows 
the East River shore for over 2 M., passing the ferries to the Long Bland 
cities, and the piers at which lie hundreds of stately packet and clipper 
ships, and humbler coasting-craft. Bowling Green, the cradle of New 
York, is just N. of the Battery. 

Bartholdi’s colossal * statue of Liberty Enlightening the World, on 
Bedloe’s Island, is reached by steamboats running hourly from the U. S. 
Barge Office, at the Battery (25 cts. for the round trip). It is plainly 
visible from the Battery. 

*The East-River Bridge, opened in 1883, crosses from Sands St., 
Brooklyn, to City-Hall Park, N. Y., 5,989 ft. long and 135 ft. above high 
water, with towers 272 ft. high. It took 13 years to build, and cost 
$ 15,000,000. It has 2'carriage-roads, an elevated foot-path, and railways. 


3 30 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


No. 1 Broadway was built in 1700, and served as the headquarters of 
Lord Howe, Gen. Clinton, Lord Cornwallis, and Gen. W ashington. On 
its site Cyrus W. Field has erected a vast commercial building. Benedict 
Arnold lived at No. 5 Broadway, and Gen. Gage had his head quarters at 
No. 11. A short distance above the Green is * Trinity Church, a noble 
Gothic building of brown-stone, with a spire 284 ft. high. The interior is 
192 ft. long and 60 ft. high, with a deep chancel lighted by a superb 
window, and with massive columns separating the nave from the aisles. 
The church is open all the week, and the ascent of the spire (permission 
is now rarely given) should be made for the sake of the * view from the 
top. To the S. is the noble harbor with its beets and fortified islands 
and the fair villages of Staten Island in the distance; to the W., across the 
Hudson, are Jersey City, Newark, Bergen, and Elizabeth; and up-river 
from Jersey City are Hoboken and Weehawken, with the Palisades and 
the distant blue Highlands in the N. The thronged and brilliant Broad¬ 
way runs N. E. for 2 M. to Grace Church, and the great mass of the city 
is seen on either hand ; while the course of East River may be followed 
from above Blackwell’s Island by Flushing, Astoria, and Greenpoint, to 
Brooklyn and Greenwood. Directly below is the crowded Wall St., along 
whose line ran the walls of New Amsterdam. There is a large and ven¬ 
erable graveyard about the church, in which are buried Alexander 
Hamilton, Capt. Lawrence (of the Chesapeake), and other noted men, 
while in one corner is a stately Gothic monument to the patriots who died 
in the British prison-ships. Trinity Society is the oldest in New York, 
and the first edifice on the present site was built in 1696. In 1705 Queen 
Anne gave it a fine communion’ service (still preserved), and also a large 
tract of land on Manhattan Island, which has since so increased in value 
that this church is the richest in America (said to be worth over $10,000, 
000), and spends immense sums annually in benefactions among the poor 
of New Y^ork, besides supporting a considerable body of clergy and a choir 
which is unsurpassed in the country. There are morning and evening 
prayers daily in the church (9 a. m. and 3 P. M.), with imposing choral 
services on Sunday. The chime of bells in the steeple is the finest in 
America. 

Wall St. runs E. from Trinity Church, and is the resort of bankers and 
brokers, and the financial centre of the republic. At No. 13 the visitors 
gallery of the Stock Exchange may be entered, and at about noon affords 
an exciting view of the busy whirl below. The stately U. S. Sub- 
Treasury is on the corner of Wall and Nassau, on the site of the hall in 
which Washington was inaugurated first President of the U. S. (1789). It 
is built in partial imitation of the Parthenon at Athens, with Doric colon¬ 
nades and classic pediment, and a lofty interior rotunda, supported by 
16 elegant Corinthian columns. It is of Massachusetts marble (with 


NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 331 


granite roof), and took 8 years in building, costing $ 2,000,000. (Visitors 
admitted, 10-3 o'clock.) Broad St., the home of speculators and brokers, 
leads off to the S. from the Treasury, while running N. is the busy Nassau 
St., also lined with bankers’ offices, and leading to the City-Hall Park — 
crossing John St. , on which is the oldest Methodist church in America 
(built in 1768), and near which, on William St., Washington Irving was 
born. The venerable Middle and North Dutch Churches (on Nassau 
and Fulton Sts.) have been secularized and demolished. The former 
was used for the U. S. Post-Office from 1861 to 1875. Opposite 
the U. S. Sub-Treasury are several eminent banking-houses, and the 
superb Drexel building (built in the Renaissance style at a cost of 
8 700,000). Still farther down Wall St. is the U. S. Custom House, a 
massive building of granite, marble, and iron, originally built for a 
Merchants’ Exchange, at a cost of $1,800,000. It is 200 ft. long, and has 
a portico of 18 Ionic columns, while a dome 124 ft. high overarches a 
rotunda surrounded by 8 rich Corinthian columns of Italian marble, and 
capable of containing 3,000 persons. The elegant Bank of New York is 
opposite the Custom House, and just below is Pearl St., the scene of a 
heavy wholesale trade in cotton and other staples. A ferry runs from the 
foot of Wall St. to Montague St., Brooklyn. Returning to Broadway, the 
immense buildings of the Bank of the Republic, the Metropolitan Bank, 
the Equitable Life Ins. Co. (137 ft. high), and others are passed. Fulton 
St. turns off to the r. at the busiest part of Broadway, and leads to Fulton 
Ferry, passing the Evening-Post building and the Fulton Market. 
St. Paul's Church (Epis.), on the 1. of Broadway, was built in 1766, and 
has a statue of St. Paul on its pediment, with a mural tablet in the front 
wall over the remains of Gen. Montgomery. Opposite the church are the 
floridly ornamented Park Bank and the extensive and elegant Herald 
Building, standing on the site of Barnum’s Museum (which was burnt in 
1865). The long and simple granite front of the Astor House comes next, 
on Broadway (on the 1.), with Vesey St. diverging to the 1. and leading to 
the great Washington Market , with its rude and unsightly sheds filled with 
a rare display of the fruits and vegetables, meats and fish, of the adjacent 
districts. Park Row stretches off obliquely to the r. from the Astor House 
to Printing House Square, with its bronze statue of Franklin. This vicinity 
is .one of the great intellectual centres of America, and here are seen the 
offices of the Herald, Times, Tribune, World , Sun, Telegram, News, Mail 
and Express, Journal, Stoats Zeitung (all daily papers, besides a great array 
of weeklies). The East-River Bridge (see page 329) ends at the City-Hall 
Park; and the elevated railway may be taken here for up-town, the Battery, 
or Brooklyn. By turning from Printing-House Square down Frankfort St., 
Franklin Square is reached, with the vast and imposing publishing-house of 
the Harpers. Tne prolongation of Park Row is the home of cheap trades- 


332 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


men, mock auctions, and old-clothes shops. At the S. end of the City 
Hall Park, and opposite the Astor House, is the * U. S. Post-Office, 
a stately and immense granite building, with lofty Louvre domes and a 
frontage (on Broadway) of 340 ft. The architecture is Doric and Renais¬ 
sance, the granite columns and blocks being cut and carved ready for their 
places (by 600 men) at Dix Island, on the coast of Maine, and the building 
is absolutely incombustible. The basement and lirst floor are reserved 
for the Post-Office, the second and third floors forthe U. S. Courts, and 12 
elevators keep up communications. The City Hall is N. of the Post- 
Office, and is a fine building of Massachusetts marble, 216 ft. long and 
105 ft. broad, with Ionic, Corinthian, and composite pilasters lining its 
front. It is surmounted by a fine clock-tower, which is illuminated at 
night. The City Hall was nine years in building, and cost $ 700,000. N. 
of this edifice is the new Court House, a massive and magnificent marble 
building, in Corinthian architecture, 250 ft. long, and completely fire¬ 
proof. It was commenced in 1861, the expense being estimated at 
§ 800,000, but the infamous Tammany Ring having gained control in the 
city, $6,000,000 was (nominally) spent on the Court House. The 
elegant Corinthian portico on Chambers St., the lofty and graceful dome, 
and other details of the plan, have not yet been completed. Opposite the 
Court House is the building formerly devoted to A. T. Stewart's 
wholesale trade’ (shawls, silks, and dry goods), standing on the site of a 
British fort of 1776-83. Passing up Broadway, with immense and costly 
buildings on either side, and similarly lined streets running off to r. and 1., 
the brilliant windows, the throngs on the sidewalks, and the roar of the 
street cause constant surprise. On the r. is the “ Bloody Sixth ” Ward 
(bounded by Broadway, Canal, Bowery, and Chatham Sts.), with its dense 
and dangerous population, its filth, poverty, and crime. By turning 
down Leonard St. (to the r.) the city prison, called the Tombs, is reached. 
It is built massively in the gloomiest and heaviest form of Egyptian 
architecture, and is usually well filled, while in the interior of the quad¬ 
rangle is the place of executions. A short distance beyond, at the inter¬ 
section of Baxter, Park, and Worth Sts., is the Five Points, formerly the 
most terrible locality in the city and republic, b\it now somewhat im¬ 
proved by the aggressions of religious missions. In this vicinity are the 
crowded and reeking tenements, the narrow and filthy alleys, the unspeak¬ 
able corruption and utter depravity of the slums of the Empire City. It 
is well to be accompanied by a policeman during a visit to this district, 
both to insure personal safety and to learn minute details. 

Advancing up Broadway, Walker St, is seen on the 1., leading to the 
Hudson River R. R. Depot, whose Hudson St. front is surmounted by 
the largest bronze groups in the world (emblematic of Vanderbilt’s career). 
The ancient Chapel of St. John fronts the depot, which was built on St. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 333 


John’s Park. Passing now the superb white marble N. Y. Life Ins. 
Building (Ionic architecture) the wide Canal 

St. is crossed. Prince St. leads off to the old Cathedral of St. Patrick , 
and then comes Bleecker St., the Latin Quarter of New r York, and 
the headquarters of Bohemianism. A little way beyond the Grand- 
Central Hotel (on the 1.), a side street leads W. to Washington Square, 
laid out on the old Potter’s Field, where over 100,000 bodies are buried 
in trenches. On one side of the Square is the New-York University 
(founded in 1831), a tine marble building 200 ft. long, in English 
collegiate architecture, with a large Gothic window lighting the chapel. 
Above the Grand-Central Hotel, Astor Place leads off obliquely to 
the r. to the Mercantile Library (with 200,000 volumes) 

Close by, on the S., in Lafayette 
Place, is the Astor Library (open 9-5 daily), in two lofty halls in a 
large Romanesque building. The library was endowed with §400,000 by 
John Jacob Astor, and has about 240,000 volumes, besides rare old books 
and considerable departments in the European languages. The Bible 
House (at the end of Astor Place) is an immense structure, six stories 
high, covering £ of an acre, with 700 ft. frontage, and containing 600 oper¬ 
atives. It cost §300,000, and is the property of the American Bible So¬ 
ciety, and besides the vast numbers of Bibles issued from its presses, there 
are 13 religious and philanthropic papers published in the building. Since 
1817 this society has put in circulation 9,000,000 Bibles and Testaments, 
in 24 languages. Opposite the Bible House is the Cooper Institute, a 
brown-stone building occupying an entire square, which was founded and 
endowed by Peter Cooper, of New York. It has a great library and read¬ 
ing-room, with courses of lectures and special studies, nearly all of which 
are free to the people. Stuyvesant Place leads N. E. from the Institute, 
passing St. Mark's Church (Epis.), which has the tombs of the Dutch Cap¬ 
tain-General Stuyvesant (died 1682), the British Governor Sloughter, and 
the American Governor Tompkins. At the end of the Place is the ele¬ 
gant yellow sandstone building of the N. Y. Historical Society, with a 
rich historical library of 60,000 volumes, collections of antiquities, a pic¬ 
ture gallery, and museums of Nineveh marbles and Egyptian curiosities. 
Cole’s “ Course of Empire ” paintings are in this art gallery. 

On Broadway, at the corner of 10th St., is Denning’s (formerly A. T. 
Stewart’s) vast dry-goods store, with 15 acres of flooring. Grace Church 
and Rectory are now seen on the r., costly and elegant buildings of mar¬ 
ble, in the most florid Gothic architecture. The lofty and graceful spire 
is much admired, and the interior of the church, with 40 stained windows, 
light columns and arches and carvings, has a marvellous richness. At 
this point Broadw'ay bends to the 1., and soon reaches Union Square, a 
pleasant oval park, with green lawns and shrubbery, and a large popu- 


334 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


lation of English sparrows. On the E. is a colossal equestrian statue of 
Washington, which is much admired, and on the W. is a bronze statue of 
Lincoln. The Square is lined with fine hotels and stores, although it was 
formerly the most aristocratic part of the city. University Place runs S. 
from Union Square, passing the N. Y. Society Library (near 12th St. ; 
founded 1700 ; 04,000 volumes) 

to the N. Y. University. 
14th St. runs E. by the elegant Steinway Hall, the Academy of Music, 
Grace Church Chapel, and Tammany Hall. 

4th Avenue runs N. from Union Square. To the r., down 16th St., are 
Stuyvesant Square and St. George’s Church (Epis.), a large and elegant 
edilice of brown-stone, in Romanesque architecture, with a richly frescoed 
ceiling 100 ft. above the floor, a spacious chancel, twin spires (245 ft. 
high), and a fine rectory. Farther up 

4th Ave. (corner of 20th St.) is the Church of All Souls 
(Unitarian), a curious structure in Italian architecture, with alternate 
courses of brick and light-colored stone. On the next corner is the Cal¬ 
vary Church (Epis.), a Gothic building of brown-stone. 

On the corner of 4th Ave. and 23d St. is the Young Men's Christian Asso¬ 
ciation building, a large and costly structure of brown and Ohio stone, in 
the Renaissance architecture, and including a fine library, reading-rooms, 
parlors, a gymnasium, and a public hall. Strangers will meet a kindly 
welcome here. Opposite the Y. M. C. A. is the elegant * National 
Academy of Design, built of gray and white marbles and blue-stone, in 
the purer Gothic forms of the 12th century, with certain features copied 
from the best Venetian architecture. It has an imposing entrance and 
stairway, with extensive galleries, in which every spring and summer are 
held exhibitions of hundreds of the recent works of the best of living 
American artists (admission 25c.). On the lower floor is the Suydam col¬ 
lection (on permanent deposit), which includes 92 pictures by eminent 
French and American artists, with a few works of the old Italian masters. 
E. of the Academy (on 23d St.) are the N. Y. College of Physicians and 
Surgeons, the Demilt Dispensary, the Ophthalmic Hospital, and the Col¬ 
lege of the City of New York (corner of Lexington Ave.). Passing W. 
along 23d St., Madison Square is soon reached (3 M. from the Battery), 
a bright and fashion-favored park of six acres, surrounded by palatial 
hotels (Fifth Ave., Hoffman, St. James, etc.), and the magnificent Madison- 
Square Garden. 23d St. runs thence W. to the Hudson River, passing 
the imposing Masonic Hall, and the marble Grand Opera House, on the 
corner of 8th Ave. Turning to the 1. from 23d St. down 9th Ave. to 20th 
St., the stone buildings of the richly endowed and flourishing General 


NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 335 


Theological Seminary (Epis.) may be seen. Broadway runs N. from 
Madison Square for nearly 2 M. to the Central Park, crossing the num¬ 
bered streets obliquely, and passing the sumptuous Hotel Victoria, on the 
corner of 27th St., several famous theatres, the Congregational Taber¬ 
nacle (corner of 34th St.) f 

and long lines of fine buildings and stores. Fifth 
Avenue begins on the S. at Washington Square, and passes the Col¬ 
lege of St. Francis Xavier (Jesuit ; comer of 16th St. 

Chiekering Hall (corner of 
18th St.), the S. Reformed Church (corner of 21st St.), the Church of 
the Holy Communion (Epis. ; cruciform Gothic, of brown-stone, with 
free seats ; corner of 20th St. and 6th Ave.), and the Union Club House 
(built of brown-stone at a cost of .$300,000 ; corner of 21st St.). The 
avenue now passes the line of superb hotels on the W. side of Madison 
Square, and crosses Broadway diagonally. The route from Madison 
Square to the Central Park by tins avenue leads through the most aristo¬ 
cratic and splendid street in America, — forming a scene of unexampled 
brilliancy and beauty, especially on pleasant Sundays after morning ser¬ 
vice and late in the afternoon. Just off the avenue on 25th St. is Trinity 
Chapel, an elegant edifice lined with Caen stone, frescoed, with richly 
stained windows, and famous for its choral services. St. Stephen's Church 
(Cath.), which has the most elegant altar in America, may be seen down 
28th St., which leads off to the E. to Bellevue Hospital and the Morgue. 
On 29th St., near the avenue, is the quaint and irregular Church of the 
Transfiguration, much affected for fashionable weddings and familiarly 
known as “ the little church around the corner.” At the corner of 34th 
St. is the 

superb marble palace of the late A. T. Stewart, which cost $2,000,000, 
and is now the home of the Manhattan Club. 

34th St. leads W. to the Hudson, passing the turreted and embattled 
buildings of the N. Y. Institution for the Blind. On the E. it conducts 
to Park Ave., on high ground, which is underlaid by the 4th Ave. R. 
R. passing through a tunnel over which are well-arranged parks. The 
Unitarian Church of the Messiah fronts on Park Avenue, and is adjoined 
by the spacious Church of the Covenant (Pres.), built of gray-stone in 
Lombardo-Gothic arcitecture. 


On 5th Ave., from 40th to 42d Sts., is the Distributing Reservoir of the 
Croton Aqueduct, massively built of granite in Egyptian architecture, 44 


336 Route 51. 


NEW YORK CITY. 


ft. high, 420 ft. square, with an area of 4 acres and a capacity of 
23,000,000 gallons. The broad promenade on top is open to the public, 
and commands extensive and pleasing views. Reservoir Square is a 
pretty park on the W., while the (French Catholic) College of St. 
Louis is farther down on 42d St. Two squares to the E. on 42d St. 
is the Grand Central Depot, the converging point of several railways. 
It is an enormous structure of brick and stone, covering 3 acres, and 700 
ft. long, built in Renaissance architecture, with the Grand Union Hotel 
opposite. On the corner of 5th Ave. and 43d St. is the Jewish Temple 
Emanuel, the chief of the 27 synagogues of the city, and the finest piece 
of Saracenic architecture in America. The brick Church of the Holy 
Trinity, and the superb St. Bar¬ 

tholomew’s Church are near the depot. The Windsor Hotel is at 5th 
Ave. and 46th St. ; the 4th Universalist Church is at 45tli St.; and the 
Collegiate Reformed Church is at 48tli St. On 49tb St. are the buildings 
of Columbia College, a venerable and wealthy institution, which was 
chartered (as King’s College) by George II. of England in 1754. At the 
corner of 50th St. is the Cathedral of St. Patrick (Cath.), the grandest 
church in America. It was commenced in 1858, and is now open for 
services; the building occupying the highest point on 5th Ave., and being 
firmly founded on solid ledges of rock. The material is white marble, and 
the architecture is the decorated Gothic of the 13th century. The front 
is to be guarded by two marble spires, each 328 ft. high, and adorned 
with statuary and rich carvings, while the interior columns are of marble, 
supporting a high and ornate clere-storv. The lofty and elegant front 
entrance is worthy of close inspection. N. of the Cathedral is the Catholic 
Orphan Asylum. The spacious Church of St. Thomas (Epis.) is just 
above (on the 1.), near which is Dr. Hall’s new church. At 59th St. is 
the Scholars’ Gate to the 


Central Park. 

In 1856 the present site of the Park was a dreary and desolate region of swamps 
and ledges, dotted here and there with heaps of rubbish and the shanties of a 
rude and degraded people. In that year the work began which has since given 
New York the most beautiful, and one of the largest of the parks of the world, — 
a work which up to the close of 1864 alone had cost $9,200,000. The park is a 
parallelogram, M. long and i M. wide, being 5 M. N. of the Battery, and nearly 
1 M. from the rivers on either side. It includes 863 acres, of which 185 are of 
water, 15 M. of carriage-roads, 8 M. of bridle-paths, and 25 M. of walks, while 
communication across the island is confined to four sunken roads which pass from 
E. to W. across the park and under its drive-ways. Park carriages are in wait¬ 
ing at the lower gates, and carry visitors all through the grounds, for a small sum. 
There are brilliant skating-carnivals on the frozen ponds during winter, and on 
summer afternoons (especially Sundays) the promenades and driveways are 
thronged. The park may be reached by either of several lines of elevated railway, 
running from the Battery and City-IIall Park, every few minutes. 

The Metropolitan Museum of Art (near 84th-St. station of 3d-Ave. 
Elevated Railway) contains the vast Cesnola Collections from Cyprus, and a great 
number of paintings (by Rubens, Hals, Van Dyck, Murillo, Velazquez, etc.). Open 
free. Wed., Thurs., Fri., Sat.; other days, 25 cts. The American Museum of 


NEW YORK CITY. 


Route 51. 



Natural History (near 81st-St. station, 6th-Ave. Elevated Railway) is open free 
Wed., Thurs , Kri., and Sat. it contains immense collections, including the Ver- 
reaux, Elliot (birds of America), Prince Maximilian, Hall (N. Y. geology), Bement 
(stone age of Denmark), Jay (shells), Squier (Mississippi Valley), and other rare 
groups. 

Near the Scholars’ Gate (5th Ave.) is the old State Arsenal, a massive 
castellated building. Near the bust of Humboldt is the Pond (4£ acres), 
an irregular sheet of water. Winding paths and drives conduct, by 
graceful curves and passing picturesque knolls and groves, bridges 
and arbors, to The Mall, the chief promenade and ornament of the 
park. At the entrance of this noble esplanade are line bronze statues 
of William Shakespeare and Sir Walter Scott, and other groups and 
statues are seen at various points. The Mall is 1212 ft. long and 208 
ft. wide, and is bordered by double lines of tall trees. At the Music 
Pavilion, near the upper end, fine band-concerts are given on pleasant 
Wednesday and Saturday afternoons, and at such times the vicinity is 
filled with a gay and varied crowd. The Mall is terminated by The 
* Terrace, a sumptuous pile of architecture, with frescoed arcades and 
corridors, broad promenades, costly and elaborate balustrades, and high 
pedestals which are to be graced with symbolic statuary. Broad stone 
stairways lead down to the esplanade by the lake-side, on which is erected 
the most elegant fountain on the continent, with bronzes and rare marbles 
representing the Angel of Bethesda. A large flotilla of pleasure-boats 
is kept on the Central Lake (20 acres), and pleasant excursions may 
be made with little expense (tariffs regulated by the commissioners). On 
the W. of the Mall is the Green, a broad lawn covering 15 acres, and 
destined fora parade-ground. Near the head of the Mall (on the r.) is the 
Casino, a neat refectory on a high knoll. Crossing Central Lake by the 
graceful Bow Bridge, The Ramble is entered, — 36 acres of copse and 
thicket and craggy hill, bounded by the lake and threaded by a labyrinth 
of romantic foot-paths. The Vine-covered and Evergreen Walks, the 
Stone Arch, the Grotto, and other pretty objects are found in the Ramble. 
On Vista Hill (to the N.) is the Croton Reservoir , which covers 31 acres, 
is 105 ft. above tide-water, and contains 150,000,000 gallons of water. 
There are broad and far-viewing promenades on its walls of massive 
masonry. Just to the N. is the New Reservoir , covering 106 acres and 
having a capacity of 1,000,000,000 gallons. The graceful curves of its 
shore-line are bounded by lofty stone walls of immense thickness, and 
ornamental gate-houses stand at its N. and S. ends. Just S. W. of the 
rectangular (smaller) reservoir is the Belvidere, situated on high ground 
overlooking the park. Above the New Reservoir is the Upper Park, less 
visited and with less artificial embellishment then the Lower Park, but 
with more marked natural beauties. Passing the East and West Meadows 
the buildings of Mount St. Vincent are seen on the E., where a pleasant 

15 v 


338 Route 51, 


NEW YORK CITY. 


refectory has been installed. To the E. is the Arboretum, while close by, 
on the N., is Harlem Lake (covering 16 acres), with its bold S. shore 
lined with the remains of ancient fortifications. 

The * Lenox Library (reached from 67th-St. station of 3<1-Ave. Elevated Rail¬ 
way) is a magnificent limestone building fronting on Central Park, at 70th St., 
and containing a library of 50,000 volumes, including many incunabula , and very 
rare works of immense value, Shakespeariana, Americana, etc. The picture-gallery 
contains 150 paintings, some of which are by Copley, Stuart, Reynolds, Turner, 
Gainsborough, Delaroche, Munkacsy, Yernet, Wilkie, etc. The Library is open 
free, from 11 to 4, every day except Sunday aud Monday. 

Close bv is the Lenox Hospital (Presbyterian), a quaint and orna e 
brick and stone structure, w r ith tall and slender spires. A few rods 
distant (on the old Hamilton Square; and built at a cost of $300,000) is 
the spacious and imposing building of the Normal College, in the secular 
Gothic style, with a lofty and massive Victoria tower. The Foundling 
Hospital is still farther E., and in plain sight is the Mount Sinai 
Hospital , a cluster of stately buildings in Elizabethan architecture, erected 
at a cost of $340,000. The great Union Theological Seminary (Presby¬ 
terian) is at 4th Ave. and 69th St.; and the splendid armory of the Seventh 
Regiment (open to visitors) is at 4th Ave. and 66th St. 

From the point where Broadway reaches the park (corner of 8th Ave. 
and 59th St.) a grand avenue called the Boulevard, with a parked centre 
and graceful curves, runs N. to Manhattanville and Central Bridge. This 
road passes (at 73d St.) the extensive stone building (Gothic) of the N. Y. 
Orphan Asylum, which looks down on the Hudson. The Leake and 
Watts Orphan House fronts on 110th St., and can accommodate 250 
children. Close by (on the E.) is the Morningside Park. At 115th St. 
is the Bloomingdale A sylum for the Insane, with spacious buildings in 
pleasant grounds. The Boulevard now leads by market-gardens and 
rural villas, to the village of Manhattanville (130th St.), with the impos¬ 
ing buildings of the Convent of the Sacred Heart and of Manhattan 
College on the hill beyond. 

Environs of New York. 

The High Bridge is a structure worthy of the Roman Empire. It is 
1,450 ft. long, 114 ft. high, is supported on 14 piers, and is used to carry 
the Croton Aqueduct across Harlem River. It is built of granite, and 
cost $900,000. Near this point (11 M. from the City Hall) are the 
buildings of the Juvenile Asylum, while the elegant structure of the Insti¬ 
tution for the Deaf and Dumb is to the S. W. (near 165tli St.). Just 
across Manhattan Island (which is narrow at this point) is Fort Washing- 


BROOKLYN. 


Route 51. 339 


ton, looking down on the Hudson in a succession of fine views. The 
High Bridge may be reached bj r the elevated railways which traverse 2d 
and 3d Aves., but the steamers which leave Peck Slip (12-15 times 
daily) for Harlem afford a more pleasant route. These boats pass up the 
East River, by the immense municipal charitable and correctional build¬ 
ings on Blackwell's Island. The entire E. water-front of the city is passed, 
Astoria is visited, and, leaving the tumultuous Hell Gate passage on the r., 
the boat enters a narrower channel with Ward's Island on the r. On this 
island are seen the imposing and extensive buildings of the Inebriate 
Asylum, together with the Lunatic Asylum and the Emigrant Hospitals. 
Randall's Island comes next (on the r.), with the House of Refuge and 
other civic charities. The steamer stops at Harlem Bridge, whence the 
High Bridge may be reached by smaller boats or by road. 

Brooklyn, the third city of the Union (806,343 inhabitants), is joined 
to New York by several ferries across East River, and the world-renowned 
East-River Bridge, over 1 M. long and 135 ft. high, built 1870-83, at a 
cost of $ 15,000,000. Noble views are afforded from its centre. It is crossed 
by cars. The City Hall is 1 M. from the Fulton Ferry (corner of Court and 
Fulton Sts.), and is an elegant classic building of white marble, near which 
is the Kinys-County Court House, built of marble in Corinthian architecture, 
at a cost of $ 540,000. 1 here are many other fine public buildings in the city, 
while the private mansions (on Clinton Avenue, Brooklyn Heights, &e.) are 
worthy of notice. The U. S. Navy Yard is of the first class, and covers 
144 acres, with large depots of materiel of war, ship-houses, barracks, &c., 
while the Dry Dock (which cost $1,000,000) is one of the best. Some 
fine vessels may be seen here, including the old line-of-battle ship Ver¬ 
mont. The Marine Hosyntal (500 patients) is a large granite building 
on the Wallabout Bay, where the British prison-ships were anchored 
during the Revolution, and where 11,500 patriot prisoners died. The 
A tlantic Dock fronts toward Governor’s Island, and its long granite piers 
and immense warehouses merit a visit. The principal churches of the 
city are the Catholic Cathedral, on the 

corner of Lafayette and Vanderbilt Aves.; the Plymouth Church 

on Orange, near Hicks St.; the Church of the Pilgrims 
(Rev. R. S. Storrs, Jr.), corner of Henry and Remsen Sts.; and the 
Church of the Holy Trinity, corner of Clinton and Montague Sts. From 
the fact of its having 233 churches, Brooklyn has won and wears the 
name of “ The City of Churches. 

Prospect Park (reached by horse-cars on Fulton St. and Flatbush Ave.) 
is a noble rival of Central Park, covering 630 acres, and costing, since its 
commencement (in 1866), $9,000,000. The Plaza is a large, paved, circu¬ 
lar space at the entrance, with a statue of Lincoln, fountains, and flowers. 
There are broad and verdant meadows, large and umbrageous groves. 


340 Route 52. 


NEW YORK TO ALBANY. 


hills commanding superb views of the Bay of New York, Staten Island, 
and the Highlands of the Hudson and the Neversink. There is a pictu¬ 
resque lake of 61 acres, and the romantic variety of the natural scenery of 
this park, together with its height and its fine distant views, renders it 
the pride of Long Island. There are 8 M. of drives, 4 M. of rides, and a 
great number of rambles. 

Greenwood Cemetery is 3 M. from Fulton Ferry (horse-cars every 15 
minutes; strangers not admitted on Sunday), and is the most beautiful 
cemetery in the world. It contains 413 acres of land, traversed by 20 M. 
of winding paths and driveways, and embellished with forests and lakes. 
Ocean Hill commands a view over the limitless sea, while Battle Hill 
overlooks New York and its Bay, Brooklyn, Jersey City, and the Hud¬ 
son. Many of the monuments are of much artistic merit, and the reve¬ 
nues of the cemetery are devoted to its adornment. 

To the E. of Brooklyn are the large cemeteries of “The Evergreens” 
and “ Cypress Hills,” beyond which are the quaint and pleasant old Long 
Island towns of Flushing and Jamaica. Still farther E. is Roslyn 
(steamer from Peck Slip), a sweet village on Hempstead Bay, near which 
is Cedarmere, the home of Bryant. Long Branch is 34 M. from New 
York (by steamer from Pier 8, N. R., to Sandy Hook, and thence by 
rail), and is the favorite seaside resort of the “upper ten.” It has a 
cluster of the most elegant and expensive summer-hotels on the coast, and 
has fine bathing and driving facilities. Coney Island is a favorite resort 
for the great mass of the citizens, and is quickly reached by boat from 
Fieri, N. R., or by cars from Brooklyn. Excursions to the beautiful 
hills and vast fortifications on Staten Island ; to the cities of Jersey City, 
Elizabeth, and Newark ; and through Hell Gate to the island towns, will 
be found both pleasant and profitable. 


52. New York to Albany. —The Hudson River. 

The palatial steamers of the day line to Albany leave Pier 39, N. R. (foot of 
Vestry St.) at 8. 30 a. m. The night boats leave Pier 41 (foot of Canal St.) at 6 
r. m. The Hudson River Railroad runs from the Grand Central Depot (trains to 
Albany, 144 M., in 5-5.) hi-s.); the Harlem Railroad station is on 42d St. 
(Grand Central Depot ; distance to Albany, 151 M.). The day steamers will 
be preferred by the tourist, on account of the panoramic views of the river- 
scenery thereby obtained, together with the immunity from the dust and heat of 
the cars. The tare is !g2. 

The Hudson River was named in honor of the Dutch mariner who first explored 
it, — ascending in the yacht “ Half-Moon ” as far as the Mohawk River. It has 
its rise in the Adirondack Mts., 4,000 ft. above the sea, and after the confluence 
of several branches at Fort Edward, takes a southerly course to the Bay of New 
York. Large steamers ascend to Troy, 150 M., and ships can go as far as Hudson, 
117 M. Vast quantities of lumber are floated down the stream, while squadrons 
of canal-boats are frequently passed, bearing coal from Pennsylvania (by the Dela¬ 
ware and Hudson Canal to Rondout) and grain from the West (by the Erie Canal 
to Albany). 


































































THE HUDSON RIVER. 


Route 52. 341 


As the great steamer passes out into the stream, a fine view is afforded 
of the harbor in the distance, the populous shores of Jersey City and 
Hoboken on the W., and the dense lines of piers and warehouses on the 
New York shore. Above Hoboken are the Elysian Fields and Castle 
Hill, crowned by the Stevens mansion ; and still beyond is Weehawken, 
where Aaron Burr, the political adventurer, shot (in a duel) Alexander 
Hamilton, a distinguished statesman and jurist, and for 6 years Secretary 
af the U. S. Treasury (1804). At and above Weehawken The Palisades 
begin to assume a bold aspect. This is a vast trap-dyke, 3 - 500 ft. high, 
which runs along the r. bank from Hoboken to Haverstraw, with a lofty, 
columnar front, and masses of fragments at its base. It is less than 1 M. 
thick, and hides the Hackensack Valley from the Hudson. Bull's Ferry 
(W.) is a summer-resort opposite 90th St. Manhattanville (E.) is a vil¬ 
lage of New York City, near which are the Lunatic Asylum and the Con¬ 
vent of the Sacred Heart, just above which is CarmansviUe, and a large 
pile of fine buildings surmounted by a dome (the N. Y. Institution for 
the Deaf and Dumb). On the same shore, and farther N., is Fort Wash¬ 
ington, on a bold cliff near 185th St. This was the citadel of the Ameri¬ 
can fortified lines in 1776, but was captured in November of that year, 
with its garrison of 2,600 men. On the W. shore is Fort Lee, whose gar¬ 
rison, retreating after that event, was attacked and cut to pieces by a large 
Hessian force. 

On Jeffrey’s Hook (E.) are the remains 
of a powerful redoubt which was built to defend the bbstructions with 
which the river was filled, and near King’s Bridge (by 217th St.) were 3 
forts, about which there was desperate fighting early in 1777. A short 
distance above (E.), the mouth of Spuyten Duyvil Creek is passed. 

This stream is named after a legendary Dutch trumpeter who swore he would 
swim the creek on his mission to the mainland, “ in spite of the devil ” (en spuyl 
den duyvil). He struggled violently when at mid-stream, gave one long trumpet- 
blast, and sank. At the mouth of this creek the Indians attempted to board Hud¬ 
son’s vessel (in 1609), but after a severe conflict they were repulsed and driven to 
the shore. Throughout the Revolutionary War, Spuyten Duyvil was the southern 
border of the “ neutral ground,” —a belt of about 30 M., which was incessantly 
swept by raids and guerilla bands. 

From the high promontory of the Palisades on the W. a road leads to 
the pretty New Jersey village of Englewood, in the fertile valley of the 
Hackensack. Above Spuyten Duyvil is the village of Riverdale, near 
which (E.) is Mount St. Vincent, a convent of the Sisters of the Sacred 
Heart. The castellated and towered stone building was the Font Hill 
mansion of Edwin Forrest, and the large brick building was erected by the 
sisterhood after their acquisition of the estate. Yonkers (E.) is 17 M. 
from New York, and is a large and flourishing cit\ r at the' mouth of the 
Neperan River, where many New York merchants live. Hudson made 
his second anchorage here (1609), and traded with many Indians who 


342 Route 52. 


TARRYTOWN. 


came aboard his vessel. A naval battle was fought off Yonkers in 
1777 between the British frigates “ Rose ” and “ Phoenix ” and a flotilla of 
American gunboats. This district constituted the ancient Philipse estate, 
the manor-house'of which is still standing, and with its broad halls, lofty 
rooms, wainscoting, and Dutch tiles, has a truly antique air. Part of 
the manor was built in 1682, and the remainder dates from 1745, all the 
walls being of stone. Mary Philipse, the beautiful heiress of this estate, 
was the first love of George Washington, and, although he could not win 
her, he always remembered her fondly. 

A little above Yonkers (on the W.) is the highest point of the Palisades, 
and soon Hastings is seen on the E., a prosperous village whence much 
Westchester marble is shipped. Here Lord Cornwallis’s British army 
crossed the Hudson, just before Washington’s retreat through the Jerseys. 

1 M. above (E.) is Dobbs’ Ferry, an ancient village at the mouth of Wis- 
quaqua Creek, with ruins of old fortifications and a quaint old church. 
It was named for one Dobbs, a Swede, who kept a ferry here, and some 
years since a sharp controversy was raised by a well-supported but unsuc¬ 
cessful attempt to change the name to Paulding. Opposite this place is 
Piermont, where a pier 1 M. long (near the line between New York and 
New Jersey) projects from the W. shore to the deep-water channel. A 
branch of the Erie Railway runs thence to Suffern, 18 M. W. 2 M. from 
Piermont is the old village of Tappan, where Major Andre was tried and 
executed (1780), and the stone house which was Washington’s head-quar¬ 
ters and Andre’s prison is still standing. At Dobbs’ Ferry begins a lake¬ 
like widening of the river called Tappan Zee (10 M. long, and 2-5 M. 
wide). Near Irvington, above the Ferry, are several fine mansions, among 
which is “Sunnyside,” the ancient and unique home of Washington Irv¬ 
ing. It was built in the 17th century by "VVolfert Acker, who inscribed 
over the door “ Lust in Rust” (pleasure in quiet), whence the English 
settlers called it “ Wolfert’s Roost.” The eastern front is covered with 
ivy, from a slip which Sir Walter Scott gave Irving at Abbotsford. Above 
“Sunnyside” is the Paulding Manor, a costly building of marble, in 
Elizabethan architecture, and still farther N. is Tarrytown, an ancient 
village beautifully situated on a far-viewing hillside. Near this village 
(the Terwe Dorp of the 17th century) is a quiet valley known of old as 
Slaeperigh Haven (“Sleepy Hollow ”), which has been immortalized by 
Irving. Carl’s Mill, the Philipse Castle, and the bridge over the Pocan- 
tico, are still standing, and so is the old Dutch Church, built in the 17th 
century with bricks brought from Holland. 

A monument marks the place where Andr6 was captured. Benedict Arnold, a 
brave American genei-al, had been court-martialed and reprimanded for cextain 
derelictions in his command of Philadelphia, and his proud spirit felt the stiixg of 
disgrace so keenly that he resolved to be revenged on his country. He opened a 
secret correspondence with the British, and ottered to surrender West Point (to 


THE HIGHLANDS. 


Route 52. 343 


which he had been transferred). Major Andre, Adjutant-General of the British 
army, went up the Tappan Zee on the sloop-of-war “ Vulture,” and landed by 
night at Stony Point, where he arranged with Arnold for the surrender. But the 
“Vulture” was forced to retire, and Andre, attempting to pass by land to New 
York, was halted in the neutral ground by a squad of irregular militia. He was 
searched, and the papers and plans of the surrender were found. Arnold escaped 
to the “Vulture,” and became a Brigadier-General in the British army, receiving 
also $30,000, but Andre, being proven a spy, was executed amid the sorrow oi' 
both armies. He has a monument in Westminster Abbey. 

Nyack is opposite Tarrytown, while to the N. is Sing Sing , on a 
pleasant hillside, and near the end of the Croton Aqueduct, which has a 
fine stone arch here. Near the river are the extensive marble buildings 
of the State Prison, which were erected by the convicts, and stand in 
grounds covering 130 acres. The place is usually overflowing with 
prisoners, who are guarded by sentinels and patrols. Opposite Sing Sing 
(meaning “ Stony Place ”) is Verdritege Hook or Point-no-Point, on 
whose upper slope is Rockland Lake, from which New York gets 200,000 
tons of ice yearly. Teller’s (or Croton) Point, with its rich vineyards, is 
now approached, and the mouth of Croton River is seen. 6 M. up this 
river is a darn 240 ft. long, 40 ft. high, and 70 ft. thick at the bottom, 
which forms a lake of 400 acres with 40 ft. of water (500,000,000 gallons). 
From this point a closed aqueduct of stone and brick carries the water 
parallel with the Hudson for nearly 40 M. to the great reservoirs in the 
Central Park, New York. The aqueduct discharges 60,000,000 gallons 
daily, with a down grade of 13| inches to a mile, and the whole work cost 
$14,000,000. 

The Highlands loom up boldly in front as the steamer crosses the 
beautiful Haverstraw Bay to the village of Haverstrciw (W.), with the old 
stone mansion on Treason Hill, where Arnold and Andre met. Above is 
a line of limestone cliffs which have produced 1,000,000 bushels of lime 
yearly. 3 M. above (W.) is the bold and picturesque promontory of 
Stony Point, with Verplanck’s Point opposite. 

Both these places were fortified early in the Revolution, and were captured by 
the British army in June, 1779, inflicting a severe blow on the Americans from 
the loss of such a strategic position. Stony Point was fortified by earthworks and 
abatis, and well garrisoned, yet Gen. Wayne begged permission to attack it, saying 
to Washington, “ General, I ’ll storm hell, if you ’ll only plan it.” With two small 
columns of picked men (of the 5th Penn. Infantry), on the night of July 15th, Mad 
Anthony Wayne carried the fort at the point of the bayonet, under a heavy fire of 
musketry and grape-shot. Wayne was shot in the head, but, being borne into the 
captured works, soon recovered, and after cannonading Fort Fayette, on Ver¬ 
planck’s Point, he dismantled and abandoned the fort. The lighthouse stands 
on the site of the old magazine. 

3 M. from Stony Point (W.) is Caldwell’s Landing, at the foot of the ab¬ 
rupt and imposing Dunderberg (Thunder Mt.), which was anciently be¬ 
lieved to be the home of malicious imps who hurled fierce tempests out on 
the river. Opposite Dunderberg is Peekskill , at the mouth of a creek which 
was ascended long ago by Jan Peek, a Dutch mariner, who was so pleased 


344 Route 52. 


WEST POINT. 


with its fertile shores that lie named it Peek’s Kill, and settled there. Fort 
Independence crowned the hill above the village during the Revolution, and 
here Gen. Putnam had his headcjuarters, and “ tried as a spy, condemned 
as a spy, and executed as a spy,” the Englishman, Edmund Palmer (1777). 
An ancient church (built in 1767) and the venerable Van Cortlandt 
mansion are worthy of a visit. 

Bending to the W. at Peekskill, the Hudson enters that part of its 
course called the Race, and passes through the beautiful Highlands, which 
were compared by Chateaubriand to “a large bouquet tied at its base with 
azure ribbon.” From Peekskill to Newburgh the steamer passes through a 
panorama of river-scenery unexcelled in the world. Dunderberg on the 
1. confronts on the r. Anthony's Nose. 

This hold hill (1,128 ft. high) is named after Anthony Van Corlear, Gov. Stuyves- 
ant’s trumpeter. “Just at this moment the illustrious sun, breaking in all his 
splendor from behind one of the high cliffs of the Highlands, did dart one of his 
most potent beams full upon the effulgent nose of the sounder of brass. The 
reflection of which shot straightway down, hissing hot, into the water, and killed 
a mighty sturgeon that was sporting beside the vessel. When this astonishing 
miracle came to be made known to Peter Stuyvesant (the governor), he, as may 
well be supposed, marvelled exceedingly; and as a monument thereof, gave the 
name of Anthony’s Nose to a stout promontory in the neighborhood.” 

Above Anthony’s Nose is the romantic Brocken Kill, while opposite is 
the grape-abounding Iona Island. Nearly opposite is the old Poplopen 
Kill, with some remnants of Forts Montgomery (N.) and Clinton (S.), on 
the promontories at its mouth. These works, together with a massive 
chain and boom across the river, defended by a fleet of gunboats, were 
intended to close the Hudson against the British. But Sir Henry Clinton 
advanced in Oct., 1777, marching over the Dunderberg, and after a sharp 
skirmish at Lake Sinnipink (still called Bloody Pond) his forces invested 
the forts. After a long struggle in the fog, during which the British fleet 
moved up the river, the overpowered garrisons gave way and fled to the 
hills, having lost 300 men. The American gunboats were then destroyed 
by their crews, and the British broke away the chains and obstructions in 
the river (which had cost Congress $250,000). 

The Hudson now turns to the N., and Highland Falls are soon seen on 
the 1., near which is the fashionable and favorite Cranston's Hotel. 1 M. 
above is the U. S. Military Academy at West Point. This place was 
fortified by Parsons’s Conn, brigade in 1778, and was then called “the 
Gibraltar of America.” Washington recommended the location of a 
national school here, and in 1812 the school "was established, since which 
the officers of the regular army have been educated here. There are 
barracks for the 250 Cadets, with riding-school, chapel, hospital, &c. The 
academy building is an extensive stone structure, in Gothic architecture. 
There are various trophies (of artillery, &c.) about the grounds, and a 
library of 40,000 volumes. Kosciusko’s Garden is a 


NEWBURG. 


Route 52. 345 


beautiful hanging garden approached from the plain by Flirtation Walk, 
and containing a marble monument to the heroic Polish chieftain, who 
was wont to read and meditate here. Near the head of Flirtation Walk 
is a monument to the troops who were massacred in the Everglades of 
Florida, in 1835. Fort Putnam is on the summit of Mount Independence, 
and commands fine views from its ancient and ruinous bastions. The 
Siege Battery is a practical work near the river. The Cadets are chosen 
by the National Congressmen and, after remaining here four years, enter 
the U. S. Army as second-lieutenants. Craney’s Hotel ($4 a day) is close 
to the camp, where the cadets encamp in July and August. 

Opposite West Point is Sugar Loaf Mt., under whose shadow is the 
Robinson House, Arnold’s head-quarters, and the Beverly Dock, whence 
he escaped to the “ Vulture.” Passing Constitution Island, on the E. is 
seen Cold Spring, a pretty village near which is “ Undercliff,” the former 
home of the poet Morris. Mt. Taurus looms up on the r., and is named 
from a certain wild bull who was once the terror of the countryside, until 
he was hunted out and broke his neck on the next hill (N. ), since called 
Breakneck Hill (1,187 ft. high). On the W. bank, just above West Point, 
is Cro'-JYest (1,418 ft. high), which is separated from Boterberg by the 
picturesque Vale of Tempe, where some part of the scene of “ The Culprit 
Fay ” is laid. Boterberg (otherwise called Butter Hill and Storm King) 
is a bold and imposing mountain 1,529 ft. high, at whose northern slope 
is the pretty village of Cornwall. “ Idlewild,” the home of N. P. Willis, 
is near Cornwall, beyond which the decadent village of New Windsor is 
seen. 

Newburgh ( Orange Hotel) is a busy city of over 24,000 inhabitants, built 
on the steep slope of a high hill, and showing finely from the river. There 
are many pretty villas on the heights, and a few very neat churches, while 
the water-front is lined with warehouses. The city has some manufac¬ 
tories, and a considerable country trade, while immense quantities of coal 
are brought here from Pennsylvania, and shipped to all parts of the Hud¬ 
son Valiev. A noble memorial arch overlooks the river from near Wash¬ 
ington’s headquarters, and shelters a statue of Washington. 

S. of Newburgh is the old Hasbrouck Mansion, an antique stone house which 
was Washington’s head-quarters in 1783, while the Continental army was encamped 
here to watch the British at New York. Certain high officers of the army, doubt¬ 
ing the feasibility of a republic, circulated an address to that effect, and (indirectly) 
ottered to make Washington King of America. The noble Virginian spurned the 
proposal, and after he had delivered an earnest address to a council of officers they 
resolved unanimously, “ That the officers of the American army view with abhor¬ 
rence, and reject with disdain, the infamous proposition contained in a late anony¬ 
mous address to the officers of the army.” 

A steam-ferry crosses the river from Newburgh to Fishk-ill-on-the-Hud- 
son, on a fertile plain N. of the S. Beacon Hill (from which noble views 
are afforded). The manufacturing village of Matteawan is about 1^ M. 

15* 


34G Route 52. 


POUGHKEEPSIE. 


distant, and the ancient Dutch town of Fishkill is 5 M. to the E. 2 M. 
N. E. of the river village (the Landing) is'the Verplanck House, once the 
head-quarters of Baron Steuben, and the place where the Society of the 
Cincinnati was formed (in 17S3). As the steamer passes N., there are fine 
retrospects of Boterberg, Breakneck Hill, and the Matteawan and Shawan- 
gunk Mts. On the W. bank, opposite the village of Low Point, is a rocky 
platform which was named “the Devil’s Dance-Chamber” by Hendrick 
Hudson, after seeing there a midnight pow-wow of painted Indians. 

But Knickerbocker, describing Gov. Stuyvesant’s voyage, says, “ Even now I 
have it on the point of my pen to relate, how his crew was most horribly fright¬ 
ened, on going on shore above the Highlands, by a gang of merry, roystering devils, 
d isking and curveting on a huge flat rock which projected into the river, and 
which is called the Duyvell’s Duns Kamer to this very day.” 

New Hamburg, and Barnegat (on the E. shore), Hampton, Marlborough, 
jmd Milton (on the W. shore), are small river-villages, which are passed 
during the next 15 M. Poughkeepsie ( Morgan House ) is a city of 23,000 
inhabitants, situated on the E. bank, 75 M. from New York. It was 
settled by the Dutch in 1698, and its name is derived from the Indian 
Apokeepsing (“safe harbor”). It is situated on a plateau above the 
river, and has some good public buildings and famous schools, with a 
large and lucrative country trade from the rich farm-lands of Dutchess 
County. About 2 M. from the city (horse-cars run all the way) is Vassar 
College, the largest and most renowned female college in the world. It 
occupies a range of imposing buildings secluded amid extensive grounds, 
and has about 400 students, who pursue the higher classical and scientific 
studies, and receive degrees in due form. Among the distinguished resi¬ 
dents of Poughkeepsie were Benson J. Lossing, the historian ; A. J. Davis, 
the head of the Spiritualist sect (sometimes called “ The Poughkeepsie 
Seer”) ; and Prof. S. F. B. Morse (died in 1872), one of the originators 
of the electric telegraph. 

New Paltz is opposite Poughkeepsie, and 5 M. above (E.) is the hand¬ 
some village of Hyde Park , named after Sir Edmund Hyde, a near rela¬ 
tive of Queen Anne, who was an early Governor of New York. This land 
was bought and named by his private secretary. The village is near a 
sharp bend in the river, called by Duvch “Krom Elleboge ” (crooked 
elbow), and now known as Crom Elbow. 1 M. above is “ Placentia,” the 
former home of James K. Paulding, the essayist and satirist, and Secre¬ 
tary of the U. S. Navy (1839-41). The river-banks are now low and un- 
picturesque, but an air of rich rural peace pervades the country-side, and 
handsome villas are seen on the banks. Astor’s mansion (W.), Esopus 
Island, and Staatsburg (E.) are passed, with the majestic blue peaks of 
the Catskills drawing nearer on the N. Port Ewen and Rondout, on the 
W., are busy towns, with large toyeigu populations engaged in the manu¬ 
facture of cement and the transfer ei xal, which is brought here in im- 


CLERMONT. 


Route 52. 3 4 7 


mense quantities over the Delaware and Hudson Canal. 2 M. inland, on 
Esopus Creek, is Kingston, which was settled by the Huguenots in 1665, 
and was sacked and burned by Gen. Vaughan, with 3,000 British troops, 
in 1777. The first constitution of New York was formed in a legislative 
session at Kingston (1777), and here Vanderlyn, the artist, was born 
(1776). Opposite Rondout is Rhinebeck-on-the-Hudson, 2 M. from the 
old village which was founded by William Beekman in 1647. He came 
from the Rhineland, and named his settlement for himself and his old 
home river. S. of the Landing is “ Wildercliff,” the former estate of the 
eminent Methodist, Freeborn Garretson. Above this place is “Ellerslie,” 
the home of the Hon. Wm. Kelly (the estate fronts for 1^ M. on the 
river), while near the Landing is the old fortress-mansion of the Beck¬ 
mans (built of stone, in the 17th century). Above Rhinebeck is “ Roke- 
by,” Astor’s residence, which was built by Gen. Armstrong, Secre¬ 

tary of War, 1813-14 ; and “ Montgomery Place,” the Hunts’ man¬ 
sion, built by Gen. Montgomery’s widow (a Livingston). Above Barry- 
town is the estate of “ Annandale,” and in the groves of Cruger’s Island 
(near the W. shore), is a picturesque and truly ancient ruin, which was 
imported from Italy some years since. Near Annandale is an elegant 
little chapel, and St. Stephen's College (Episcopal), endowed by Mr. Bard, 
the owner of the estate. Barrytown and Tivoli are the landings for the 
antiquated inland towns of Lower and Upper Red Hook. Opposite Tivoli 
(which has the old De Peyster Mansion) is the flourishing factory-village 
of Saugerties, at the mouth of Esopus Creek, and 2 M. above is Malden. 
Opposite Malden is Clermont, the home of the patrician family of 
Livingston (descended from the Earls of Linlithgow), which has had such 
great influence in New York State. The old manor was above German¬ 
town, and Chancellor Livingston built a new one on the site of Clermont, 
but Vaughan’s British raiders destroyed both houses (in 1777). New 
ones were soon erected, and the Chancellor, being appointed Ambassador 
to France, met Robert Fulton in Paris, and became deeply interested in 
the new theories of steam navigation. In 1787 John Fitch built and 
worked a steamboat at Philadelphia, and in 1789 one had been operated 
on the Clyde (near Glasgow), but both inventors had given up the idea 
of the feasibility of steam navigation. In 1807 Livingston and Fulton 
built a steamboat in New York, called the “ Clermont ” (but popularly 
termed “Fulton’s Folly ”), which ascended the Hudson to Albany in 32 
hours, to the great amazement ot all the people. 

The C'atskill Mts. are now seen in the W., with the famous Mountain House 
far up <>n one of their peaks, white as a snow-drift, from the village of ( atskill 
(with its superb Prospect Park Hotel overlooking the river) travelers reach the 
Mountain House, passing through Sleepy Hollow, where flip Van Winkle is 
said to have taken his 20 years’ nap. The Mountain House is near the edge of a 
cliff 2 212 ft. above the river, and commands a ** view extending over 10,UUU 
square miles, embracing parts of four fetates, 60 M. of the Hudson \ alley, the 


348 Route 52. 


ALBANY. 


distant cities of Albany and Troy, and the surrounding peaks of the Catskills. 
The South and North Mcs., the Two Lakes and the High Falls, and the Stony, 
Kauterskill, and Plattekill Cloves (notches) should be visited. There are other 
hotels among the mcs., and fine fishing is found on the remote streams. The small 
village of Palenville has several boarding-houses, much visited by artists. Amid 
this scenery lived and labored Thomas Cole, the painter of the three series of im¬ 
pressive allegorical pictures representing “ The Course of Empire,” “ The Voj age 
of Life,” and “ The Cross and the World.” (The latter was left incomplete at his 
death.) 

4 M. above Catskill, on the E. bank, is Hudson ( Worth House), a hand¬ 
some city on a high promontory, with a fine river-side avenue called the 
Promenade, leading to the top of Prospect Hill (200 ft. high) which looks 
over on the Catskills. The city was founded by 30 Quakers from Provi¬ 
dence, in 1784, and now contains 10,000 inhabitants. It is at the head of 
ship navigation, and is the terminus of the Hudson and Boston Railroad 
(to Chatham). The marble Court-House of Columbia County is located 
here, and there are several very neat churches in the city. 4 M. N. are 
the Columbia Sulphur Springs, with a large hotel and a picturesque lake, 
while New Lebanon (see page 140) is often visited from this point. A 
steam-ferry leads from Hudson to the small village of Athens, whence a 
branch of the N. Y. Central Railroad diverges to Schenectady. 4 M. N. 
is Four Mile Point, with its lighthouse, opposite Stuyvesant Landing, 5 
M. from Kinderhook, where Martin Van Buren, 8th President of the U. 
S., was born, and where he died, on his estate of “ Lindenwald.” Cox- 
sackie is a rambling village on the W. shore, and New Baltimore and 
Schodac are soon passed. Above New Baltimore and near the W. shore 
is Beeren Island, on whose rocky summit once stood the castle of Rens- 
selaerstein, pertaining to Killian Van Rensselaer, the Patroon of Albany. 
The Helderberg Mts. are seen in the W. as the steamer passes Coeyman’s; 
Castleton is then passed, on the E. ; the immense and costly national 
dikes are seen stretching along the shore ; and the populous hills of Al¬ 
bany are rapidly approached. 

Albany (* Delavan House; Kenmore; Stanwix Hall), the capital of 
New York, is a prosperous commercial city at the confluence of the Erie 
and Champlain Canals and the Hudson River, 144 M. from New York 
City. It has over 95,000 inhabitants, and is famed for its extensive brew¬ 
eries and cattle-yards, while the workshops of the N. Y. Central Railroad 
employ over 1,000 men. Vast quantities of Western produce pass to and 
through Albany by means of the Erie Canal, which has here a great ter¬ 
minal basin shielded by a breakwater 80 ft. wide and 4,300 ft. long. The 
Susquehanna R. R. (from Binghamton ; 142 M.), the N. Y. Central R. 
R. (from Buffalo —297 M. — and the West), and the Rensselaer and 
Saratoga R. R. (from Saratoga, Rutland, and Lake Champlain) converge 
here from the W. and N., and are united by 2 double-tracked bridges 
of stone and iron (| M. long; costing $2,500,000) to the great railway 
lines running S. and E. beyond the Hudson. The city has a commanding 


ALBANY. 


Route 52. 349 


situation, and contains many fine public buildings, chief among which is 
the new * Capitol, the largest and most expensive granite building on the 
continent. Begun in 1809, it has already cost $ 19,000,000, and will cost 
$5,000,000 more. It is of Renaissance architecture, 800 by 400 feet in 
area. 


The Senate Chamber (finished in marble) is not equalled outside of Venice. 
Another much admired building is the new City Hall, one of Mr. H. II. 
Richardson’s happiest efforts. This is on the same square with the 
Capitol. The Catholic Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception is a 
costly building, with handsome stained-glass windows. A still more 
elaborate and expensive cathedral for the Episcopal Diocese has just been 
begun. The State Museum of Natural History, in Geological Hall, at¬ 
tracts many visitors, who are admitted free. One of the pleasantest 
features of Albany is its Park (take State-St. or Hamilton-St. horse-cars), 
\ M. S. W. of the Capitol, 80 acres admirably laid out in drives, walks, 
groves, flower-beds. etc. The Rural Cemetery, 4 M. N., should also be 
visited, if only to see the famous statue of the Angel of the Sepulchre, by 
E. D. Palmer. The Medical College, the College of Pharmacy, and the 
Law School are branches of Union University. The leading industries 
are stove-making and brewing. There are also large lumber and cattle 
markets. 9 daily newspapers are printed here. (For additional particu¬ 
lars consult the Albany Hand-Book.) The spacious Gothic Church of 
St. Joseph, on Ten-Broeck St., is worthy of inspection. The State 
Arsenal is a strong castellated building on Eagle St., near some hand¬ 
some churches. 1J M. S. W. of the city are the buildings of the Alms¬ 
house, Insane Asylum, Fever Hospital, and Industrial School, all on one 
large farm. On a hill in the N. part of the city, is the Dudley Obser¬ 
vatory, richly endowed by Mrs. Dudley, and furnished with a costly 
collection of astronomical instruments and books. In the same part 
is the Van Rensselaer Manor House and its park, an interesting old 
building on the site first occupied by Kilian Van Rensselaer, Patroon 
of Beverwyk. His grandfather received from the Dutch king, in 1637, a 
patent, covering about 1,150 square miles, embracing most of the present 
counties of Albany, Rensselaer, and Columbia, and here he ruled in feudal 
state. The family has ever since remained powerful and wealthy. The 
Schuyler House is another ancient mansion above the city, which was 
built by Col. Peter Schuyler, a distinguished colonial leader in the 17th 
century. 

Albany was founded by the Dutch in 1014, and in 1623 a fort was built and 
named Fort Orange. The settlement was called Beverwyk, or Williamstadt, and 
in 1664, when the British took the place, it was named Albany in honor of 
the British crown-prince, Janies, Duke of York and Albany. It was then sur¬ 
rounded by timber-walls, with six gates, parts of which were standing in 1812. 
In 1686 the city was chartered, and in 1798 it became the capital of the State. A 
provincial congress, which met here in 1754, formed such a plan of union for the 
colonies that concerted action was possible when later events required it. Since 
the construction of the Erie and Champlain Canals and the great systems of rail¬ 
roads which converge here, Albany has continued to increase in wealth and pros¬ 
perity. 


ALBANY TO MONTREAL. 


350 Route 53. 


53. Albany to Montreal. 

By the Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad, running N. from Albany to Saratoga 
Springs, Whitehall, and Rutland. (See also page 360-; 

Soon after leaving the city, the Rural Cemetery is passed, and the train 
reaches W. Troy , the seat of the National Arsenal of Watervliet, with its 
30 buildings and 100 acres of grounds. On the E. is seen Troy ( American 
House ; Mansion House), a flourishing city of nearly 70,000 inhabitants, 
situated on an alluvial plain 6 M. N. of Albany. It is an important rail¬ 
road-centre, and has many large manufactories (iron foundries, cotton and 
woollen goods, cars, Bessemer steel, &e.) fronting on the Hudson. The 
Troy Hospital, Marshall Infirmary, Orphan Asylums, and Warren Free 
Institute are the principal charitable foundations ; while the Rensselaer 
Polytechnic Institute and other line academies attest the intelligence of 
the citizens. The streets are wide and well paved, and the marble Court 
House and the line churches (notably those of St. Paul and St. John) are 
worthy of attention. The city is built near the mouth of the Poestenkill, 
and is overlooked by Mounts Ida and Olympus. St. Joseph’s Seminary 
is upon the heights, and is a Catholic institution of high grade and wide 
reputation. Troy was founded by men of New England, and became a 
city in 1816. In 1862 full forty acres of its settled portion was burnt 
over, causing a loss of $ 3,000,000. 

Beyond W. Troy the train passes Cohoes, a large manufacturing town 
at the Falls of the Mohawk River, 3 M. above which the Erie Canal 
crosses the river in a stone aqueduct 1,137 ft. long, resting on 26 piers. 
The train now crosses the Mohawk, and follows the r. bank of the Hudson 
to Mechanicsville, where it turns to the N. W. Stations, Round Lake 
(near the celebrated Methodist camp-ground) and Ballston, whose mineral 
waters were formerly much visited. There are several fine springs, the 
most valuable of which is known as the Litliia Spring. 7 M. beyond 
Ballston the train reaches the village of 

Saratoga Springs. 

Hotels. — The United States ($5 a day), on Broadway., has 1,100 spacious rooms, 
and cost #1,000,1)00. The Grand Union (-§4) and Congress Hall (#3.50) are im¬ 
mense hotels, on Broadway. The Clarendon (#3 to #4) and Windsor are also near 
Congress Park. The Kensington, Huestis (#15 to #21 a week), Congress-Park 
($12 to $20 a week), Albemarle, Elmwood, Washburne, Worden, American, Na¬ 
tional, Spencer, Adelphi, Aldine, Everett, Mansion, Continental, and Linwood. 
Dr. Strong's, Dr. Hamilton's, Circular-Street House, and the Homoeopathic Sani¬ 
tarium. There are many other public-houses in the village, together with several 
great water-cure establishments under the care of experienced doctors, and many 
quiet and inexpensive boarding-houses. The charges at the principal hotels are 
#4.50 to $6 a day, or $25 to $35 a week, while every variety of price and accommo¬ 
dation may be found among the smaller hotels. Pleasant quarters may be found 
in the boarding-houses for from $10 to $20 a week. 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


Route 53. 35 l 


Carriages. — 50 e. each passenger for a course within the bounds of the village 
(baggage extra). A coachman and span may be hired for $75.00 a month. 

Amusements.— The Opera House, attached to the Grand Union House, 
seats 1,500 persons. There are nightly hops in the elegant ball-rooms attached to 
the three chief hotels, and grand balls once a week at each of these houses. Guests 
pay S 1 for admission to the balls, which are the most brilliant on the continent. 
The Races come off in July and August (second week), on one of the best of the 
American race-courses (1 M. from Congress Spring). The swiftest horses are 
entered at these famous contests, and some of the most remarkable races of the 
past decade have taken place here. Music is discoursed by bands connected with 
the hotels, several times daily, and promenades take place in the parks, parlors, 
and piazzas. 

Churches. — The Methodist and the Episcopal Societies have fine buildings 
on Washington St., near the Grand Union. The Baptist Church is on the same 
street, and the Presbyterian Church is on upper Broadway. The Catholics meet 
at their church on S. Broadway (near the Clarendon), and the Congregationalists 
meet on Phila St. (over the Post-Office). The Y. M. C. A. reading-room and hall 
are in the Town Hall (corner of Broadway and Church St.). 

Omnibuses run frequently to the springs beyond the village limits, and to 
Saratoga Lake. A small steamer plies on the lake. 

Railroads. From Boston to Saratoga by Routes 22 and 53 ; by Route 25; 
by Routes 20 and 2S (the favorite route, through trains in 9 hrs.). From New 
York by through express (without change) on the Hudson River Railroad, in 5£ hrs. 
(ISO M.); or by Route 52 to Albany, and thence by Route 53. Saratoga is 38 M. 
from Albany: 274 M. from Philadelphia ; 4P2 M. from Washington ; 841 M. from 
Chicago ; 392 M. from Quebec ; 311 M. from Niagara ; 45 M. from Lake Cham¬ 
plain ; and 2,292 M. from New Orleans. The Adirondack Railroad (station on 
Washington St.) runs N. from Saratoga to North Creek (57 M.). 

Saratoga Springs, one of the foremost of the summer-resorts of America 
and of the world, is situated in Eastern New York, about midway between 
Albany and Lake George. Like Newport by the sea, it is often called 
“ the Queen of American watering-places,” and this dual sovereignty is 
generally acknowledged. The village is situated on a plateau a few M. 
W. of the Hudson River, and has a resident population of 13,000. 
The hotel system of Saratoga is unrivalled elsewhere in the world, and 
although equal to the accommodation of 18,000 guests, it is taxed to 
its utmost capacity during the month of August (the season opens early 
in June). Broadway is the main street, and extends for several miles, 
with the chief hotels near its centre and a succession of costly villas be¬ 
yond. Circular St. and Lake Ave. are also famed for their elegant sum¬ 
mer-residences, while large medical establishments and boarding-houses 
are found on the quieter side-streets. The village is at its brightest in 
August, when it is thronged by visitors from all parts of the republic and 
from Europe, while over 3,000 private carriages, together with the caval¬ 
cades from the public livery-stables, join in the parade of fashion on 
Broadway and the Boulevard. Although the greater part of the visitors 
come from the central Atlantic States, the number from beyond that dis¬ 
trict is still so great as to give a continental or even a cosmopolitan flavor 
to the summer society. The merry music of the bands, the regular pro- 



352 Route 53. 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


cessions of elegant carriages on the favorite drives, the crowds gathering 
about the springs at the fashionable hours for drinking, the brilliant hops 
and the world-renowned balls at the grand hotels, and the surging of the 
multitude toward the railroad station at the time of the incoming trains, 
furnish endless resources for observation and amusement. 

Congress Park is a pleasant ground for a ramble, and consists of a 
low ridge sweeping around the Congress and Columbian Springs. It is 
opposite the chief hotels, and is well laid out in paths, and adorned with 
many of the great elms which are the only natural beauties to be found 
in Saratoga. N. of the Park is the Indian Camp, where a band of French 
half-breeds and Indians encamp during the summer, carrying on a lucra¬ 
tive trade in bead-work, baskets, moccasins, and other small-wares. The 
Circular Railway is near the camp, and is supposed to afford visitors a 
beneficial exercise. A little way beyond the camp (on the r. side of Cir¬ 
cular St.) is the popular Temple Grove Seminary, whose fine building is 
used during the summer as a boarding-house for families On the same 
street, and just beyond the Seminary, is the Drs. Strong’s Institute (100 
guests) for the practice of the water, vacuum, and movement cures. 
About 1 M. N. of the Park (on Broadway) is the race-course and hotel at 
Glen Mitchell, with finely arranged grounds and shady groves. 

The mineral springs rise in a stratum of Potsdam sandstone near a great break 
or fissure in the strata underlying the Saratoga Valley, and reach the surface by 
passing through a bed of blue clay. Most of the springs are owned by stock com¬ 
panies, one of which has a capital of $1,000,000, and controls the Congress, Colum¬ 
bian, and Empire Springs. The process of boring artesian wells has been intro¬ 
duced with much profit, and some of the most valuable of the new sources have 
been discovered in that way. Immense quantities of the waters are sent away to 
all parts of the United States, for the treatment of invalids at home, though the 
process of bottling and packing is difficult and costly. In the year 1SG6, 300,000 
bottles were sent away from the Empire Spring alone. The principal ingredients 
of the waters are carbonic-acid and salt, with bi-carbonates of lime, magnesia, 
soda, iron, and lithia, of which the varying proportions cause the peculiar char¬ 
acteristics of the different springs. The visitor may freely drink at any of the 
sources, the water being dipped up by boys (to whom a small gratuity is some¬ 
times given). The cathartic waters should be taken before breakfast, three glasses 
being a fair quantity ; the alterative waters should be taken m small quantities 
throughout the day ; the tonic (iron) waters must be drunk after midday; and 
the diuretic waters should be taken before each meal. 

The Columbian Spring is in Congress Park, near the Congress. It 
was discovered in 1806, and is the favorite among the residents of the vil¬ 
lage. This water contains a perceptible amount of iron, witli considerable 
carbonic-acid gas, and acts as a decided tonic and diuretic. 

The Congress Spring is pleasantly situated in Congress Park, and 
close to Congress Hall. It was found by a party of hunters in 1792, 
and was so named because there was a Congressman among their number. 
It was soon after choked by unskilful tubing, and was found again in 
1804. The exportation of the water began in 1823, and now it lias a con¬ 
tinental fame, and is also sold in Europe. It contains in each gallon 400 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


Route 53. 353 


grains of chloride of sodium, 143 grains of bi-carbonate of lime, and 122 
grains of bi-carbonate of magnesia, with 36 grains of other elements. 
This water is cathartic and alterative, and is beneficial in diseases of the 
liver and kidneys. More of it is drank than of the water of any other 
American spring, and its vicinity is thronged every bright summer morn¬ 
ing with health-seekers from the hotels. 

The Washington Spring is in the Recreative Garden of the Clarendon 
Hotel (across Broadway from the Columbian). It was opened in 1806, 
and while being renovated and shafted in 1858 a great flood of water and 
gas burst forth into the subterranean tunnel, and forced the workmen to 
flee for their lives. This is the most pleasant water in the valley, and has 
a taste of iron, with strong tonic properties. It is sometimes called “ the 
Champagne Spring,” and is situated among stately pine-groves. 

The Crystal Spring, was discovered in 

1870. It is tainted with sulphuretted hydrogen, and is alterative in its 
effects. The JIathorn Spring is opposite Congress Hall, on Spring St. 
It was discovered in 1868, and is a very powerful cathartic. Each gallon 
contains 510 grains of chloride of sodium, 171 grains of bi-carbonate of 
lime, and 176 grains of bi-carbonate of magnesia, besides an extraordinary 
amount of lithia. The Hamilton Spring is near the Hathorn, and back 
of Congress Hall (corner Spring and Putnam Sts.). It is diuretic and 
cathartic in its operation, and is mainly used for diseases of the kidneys. 
The Putnam Spring is on Phila St., near the Post-Oflice, and is tonic in 
its effects. 

The Pavilion Spring is in a pretty park on Lake Ave., very near 
Broadway. It was tubed in 1839, and has a wide reputation for its 
cathartic properties and its efficacy in dyspepsia and bilious complaints. 
Of late years it has improved in quality and in popularity. The United 
States Spring is under the same beautiful colonnade, and is tonic in its 
properties, while from its sparkling character it is used for giving life and 
flavor to still wines. 

The sources previously mentioned are near each other, in the centre of 
the village. The Seltzer, High Rock, Star, Empire, Red, Excelsior, and 
Eureka are in a long line in the N. part of the village. The Seltzer 
Spring is on the old Willow Walk, not far N. of the Pavilion. This is 
the least saline of the Saratoga waters and closely resembles the Nassau 
Spring of Germany. It bubbles up through a high glass-tube, agitated 
now and then by the passage of carbonic-acid gas. It is a pleasant and in¬ 
vigorating beverage. 

The High Rock Spring is about 150 ft. from the Seltzer, and is the 
oldest known of the springs. In 1767 a party of Indians brought Sir Wm. 
Johnson thither on a litter, and after spending some weeks here drinking 
the medicinal waters, he was cured. The water rises in a cylindrical 

w 


354 Haute 53. 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


opening in a rock of conical shape, ft. high and 24 ft. around, — a 
natural curb of tufa which lias been formed by the mineral deposits from 
the spring. The water is decidedly saline to.the taste. 

The Star Spring (formerly called the Iodine) is near the High Rock. 
This is the favorite mineral water in New England, and vast quantities of 
it are shipped in kegs and bottles. It is cathartic in effect, and acid in 
taste, and is beneficial for rheumatism and cutaneous diseases. 

The Empire Spring is N. of the Star (at the head of Circular St.). It 
very much resembles the Congress water in its constituents and effects 
(cathartic). The Red Spring is just beyond the Empire (on Spring Ave.) 
This water is chiefly (and extensively) used as awash, and is especially 
efficacious in diseases of the skin and the blood. Dyspepsia is benefited, 
and salt rheum is cured by this agency. The “ A ” Spring (on Spring 
Ave., beyond the Red) is becoming popular as a cathartic agent, having, 
moreover, a pleasant taste. 

The Excelsior Spring is nearly 2 M. N. E of Congress Park, and is 
reached by Spring Ave., or by a forest-path turning off from Lake Ave., 
and leading through beautiful woodland scenery. The Excelsior water is 
pleasant to the taste, and mildly cathartic in its operations. Near this 
place are the Minnehaha, Union, and other sources, forming a group called 
the Ten Springs. The Eureka Spring is reached by following the park¬ 
like valley for a few rods beyond the Excelsior. It is situated amid 
charming forest scenery, and is gaining popularity as a cathartic agent, 
beneficial for cases of dyspepsia, and liver and stomach diseases. Near 
this place is the White Sulphur Spring, with a copious flow of 

water charged with sulphuretted hydrogen. This is one of the best hepatic 
springs in the State, and is efficient in many affections of the glands, skin, 
stomach, &c. It is taken internally and externally, — the latter at the 
bath-houses (50c. a bath) in the vicinity. These springs are reached from 
the Eureka-Springs station, on the Saratoga-Lake Railroad. 

In this same vicinity^, near Geyser Lake, is the Champion Spouting 
Spring, a very strong water, containing much carbonic-acid gas, and 
pouring out in snowy foam. The Gevser-Lake region also contains the 
Kisstngen Spouting Spring, the Triton Spring , and the Saratoga Vichy 
Sjiring (alkaline). 

The Geyser Spouting Spring is l£ M. S. of Saratoga. It was discovered 
in 1870 by boring a well 140 ft. deep, and the water jets up for over 25 ft., 
being impelled by carbonic-acid gas. This is the coldest of the waters of 
Saratoga, and has a larger amount of mineral matter than any other. It 
is strongly cathartic, and is liveiv and pleasant to the taste. Between the 
Glacier and the Geyser is the Ellis Sjyring (chalybeate). 

Saratoga Lake is about 4 M. from the village, and is reached by the 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


ftoutc 53. OOO 


favorite drive called the Boulevard (entered by following the street which 
lies between Congress Hall and the Park). This road passes near the 
race-course and the trout-ponds. Saratoga Lake is 8 M. long and 2-3 M. 
wide, and furnishes good fishing and boating. The scenery is tame, 
although the views from Chapman’s Hill (I M. from the Lake House) 
and Wagman’s Hill are pleasing. Lake Lovely is a sequestered pond 
among the hills near the Boulevard. It is a favorite place for picnics, and 
has some fine woodland scenery. 

Lake Luzerne is 22 AI. N. of Saratoga (by the Adirondack Railroad), and 
is a picturesque sheet of water with two good hotels (Rockwell’s and the 
Wayside). The railroad exhibits some remarkable engineering and steadily 
rising grades, while the lake affords good fishing and boating. Stages run 
from Luzerne to Caldwell (10 M.). 

The battle of Stillwater was fought on Bemis Heights, about 15 M. S. E. of the 
Springs, and 2 M. from the Hudson River. Gen. Burgoyne marched south from 
Canada in June, 1777, with a well-appointed British army, strengthened by 
German, Canadian, and Indian auxiliaries. This force was to meet another 
British army advancing from New York, somewhere on the line of the Hudson, 
and thus cut the rebellious colonies in two, to be subdued in detail. Burgoyne 
took Fort Ticonderoga, July 6, and lost a large detachment of his best German 
troops, who were cut off by the Vermonters at Bennington, Aug. 16. On Sept. 
14 the British crossed the Hudson and encamped at Saratoga, near the American 
army. Burgoyne made an attack the next day on the lines at Bemis’ Heights, 
which had been fortified by Kosciuszko, but after a long and indecisive battle, was 
forced to suspend his southward march. lie fortified his camp, and waited for Sir 
Henry Clinton’s army to achieve its northward march and rescue him. His sup¬ 
plies and outposts were cut off daily, and, on October 7, he advanced for another 
battle. Morgan’s Virginians attacked his right, the 8th, 9th, and 10th Mass, 
under Gen. Poor, were led against his left, while other troops fell on his front. 
The British retreated, leaving their artillery, and the Americans stormed the 
fortified camp after desperate fighting. Burgoyne fell back on his old camps by 
Fish Creek, but Gen. Fellows, with a New England brigade and batteries, prevent¬ 
ed his crossing the river, while Gates with 12,000 Continental troops and New 
York militia faced him on the S. His provisions gave out, the camp was inces¬ 
santly cannonaded by the American batteries, and Clinton’s army had failed to 
connect, so, on Oct. i6, the British army, consisting of 5,701 men, with 42 can¬ 
non, and all their stores, surrendered to Gen. Gates. They were held as captives 
until the close of the war (over 5 years), first at Cambridge, Mass., and afterward 
at Charlottesville, Va. 

A railway (round trip §1) runs 7 M. N. to Mount McGregor ( Hotel Balmoral ), 
800 ft. above Saratoga. In a cottage on this summit Gen. Grant died. A railway 
runs to Saratoga Lake ( Moon's Lake -House, famous for game dinners and 
fried potatoes), connecting with a steamboat to the White Sulphur Springs and 
Park. A branch line reaches Schuylervilte, near the scene of the battle of Saratoga, 
where a majestic monument has been erected. Tally-ho stages run from Saratoga 
to vVoodlawn Park (Judge Hilton’s estate) and Saratoga Lake (round trip, $1). 

The Rensselaer and Saratoga Railroad runs N. E. from Saratoga, by 
Oansevoort and Moreau to Fort Edward , on the Hudson (two hotels). 
Tliis place was fortified in 1709, and in 1755 Fort Edward was built at the 
confluence of a broad creek with the river. The ramparts were 16 ft. high 
and 22 ft. thick, and were provided with 4 bastions and bordered by a 
broad wet ditch. It was a very important station ojt the old military road 
to the N., and in 1777 was held by 5,500 Americans, who retired before 
the advance of Burgoyne. About tins time the beautiful Jane Me Rea was 


356 Route 53 * 


SARATOGA SPRINGS. 


murdered by Indians, near the village, under circumstances which have 
caused her story to become one of the saddest in the New World history. 

Passengers who wish to go to Lake Champlain direct, continue on the train for 
20 M. farther, passing up the valley of Wood Creek to Whitehall. In going toward 
Whitehall the Fort Ann Mts. are seen on the 1., and the course of the Champlain 
Canal is followed. Fort Ann Village is on the site of an old colonial fort, near 
which Putnam and 500 Rangers were defeated by the French partisan Molang, with 
a large French and Indian force. The Rangers suffered fearfully, and Putnam was 
captured. In 1777 the Americans attacked the 9th line regiment of the British 
army, in a ravine now traversed l>y the railroad (J M. N. of the station), but after 
an obstinate engagement the assailants were forced to withdraw. Whitehall 
( Yule Hotel) is a prosperous lumbering village, situated in a rugged ravine under 
Skene’s Mt. It was settled by Col. Philip Skene in 1705, and a large stone man¬ 
sion and military works were erected. It was captured by Herrick and the Green 
Mt. Boys in 1775, and in 1779 was confiscated by the State of New York, on ac¬ 
count of Skene’s adhesion to the king, the British fleet here engaged the 
Americans flying from Ticonderoga, July 7, 1777, destroyed several galleys, and 
took 128 cannon and a vast amount of supplies. The name of “Whitehall ” was 
adopted in place o. Skenesborough, and in 1812 the place was well fortified. In 
1814 Macdonough’s fleet, with the British squadron which it had taken in the 
naval battle at Plattsburg, came to this point, and here the “Saratoga,” “Con- 
fiance,” and other vessels sank at their moorings. Whitehall is 24 M. from Fort 
Ticonderoga (by the lake). Whitehall to Rutland, see Route 28. 

Passengers for Lake George change cars at Fort Edward, and take a 
train which passes over a branch railroad to Glens Falls (6 M.), a flourish¬ 
ing factory-village with about 8,000 inhabitants, which has but lately 
recovered from a fire which utterly destroyed it (in 1863). The Hudson 
here falls 50-60 ft. over a long and rugged ledge, while the State has 
built a great dam above, which feeds the Champlain Canal. The island 
below the falls is associated with Cooper’s “ Last of the Mohicans.” 
“ Here, amid the roaring of this very cataract, if romance maybe believed, 
the voice of Uncas, the last of the Mohicans, was heard and heeded ; here 
Hawk-Eye kept his vigils ; here David breathed his nasal melody,” &c. 

Trains run from Glens Falls to Caldwell, 9 M. N. About 5 M. beyond the vil¬ 
lage the road passes near Williams’s Rock, a large boulder which marks the scene 
of “ The Bloody Morning-Scout. ” On Sept. 7, 1755, when the French army of 
Dieskau was marching down from Crown Point against the Anglo-colonial army 
under Gen. Johnson, Col. Ephraim Williams was sent out with 1,200 men to en¬ 
gage the French van-guard. 200 of his men were Mohawk Indians, under the 
command of their noble white-haired chief, Hendrick. The detachment ad¬ 
vanced into the very centre of the invading army (which was marching in a grea 
hall-moon curve), and was speedily enveloped and crushed by the enemy. A ter¬ 
rible massacre ensued (in a ravine still called the Bloody Defile), and Williams 
(the founder of Williams College) and Hendrick fell, with most of their men. The 
bodies of the slain were thrown into Bloody Pond, a quiet pool in a glen near Wil¬ 
liams’s Rock. Dieskau then advanced rapidly to attack the colonial camp at Lake 
George. Johnson had fortified his position, and the Indian and Canadian auxil¬ 
iaries in the attacking force were soon put to flight by the fire of the batteries, 
while the French regulars suffered heavily, and were finally repulsed with the loss 
of 700 killed and wounded. Dieskau was wounded and made prisoner, while John¬ 
son, though wounded, was made a baronet of Great Britain, and received the 
thanks of Parliament. Fort William Henry was soon afterwards erected, armed 
with 42 cannon, stored with vast supplies, and garrisoned by 2,500 men. In Au¬ 
gust, 1757, this fort was beleaguered by 10,000 Frenchmen and Canadians, under 
the Marquis de Montcalm. •After a siege of several days’ duration, having received no 
aid from the colonial army at Fort Edward, the fort was surrendered. As soon as 


LAKE GEORGE. 


Route 58. 357 


tlic ilisaimed gairisoii marched out, the Indian allies of Montcalm fell furiously 
upon them, and a fearful massacre ensued. Hundreds of the defenceless colonials 
were put to death under the walls of the fort before the slaughter could be stayed. 
Although Montcalm retired to Fort Carillon (Ticonderoga) with his trophies and 
captured batteries, the site of Fort William Henry was never re-occupied, a new 
work called Fort George, with a central citadel of stone, having been built 1 M. S. 
E. of the old fort. 

Caldwell is a dull village at the S. end of Lake George, which enjoys a 
slight local distinction from the fact of its being the shire-town of Warren 
County. There are two small inns here, and the Lake House (accommo¬ 
dating 175 guests, at $ 3-3.50 a day). The * Fort William Henry Hotel 
is a vast and sumptuous house, on the site of the old fort, and amid finely 
arranged grounds; It accommodates 700 guests, and charges §4.00 a 
day for transient visitors. The splendid frontage of the hotel looks out 
over the lake, which is close at hand. Some remnants of the old fort may 
be found here, and Fort George (1 M. distant) is a picturesque ruin. 
Rattlesnake Cobble is an easily ascended hill near Caldwell, which com¬ 
mands a broad view down the lake. Prospect and French Mts. are also 
ascended from the village, and give varying views of the lake and its 
shores. 

Stages run from Caldwell to Lake Luzerne ; also to Wammsburg, 
Chester, Schroon Lake, and the southern Adirondacks. 

Lake George 

was first visited by Father Jogues, a French Jesuit missionary, whose canoe en¬ 
tered its quiet waters on the eve of the festival of Corpus Christi, 1646. In honor 
of that sacred anniversary he named these bright waters “ Le Lac du St. Sacre- 
ment” (The Lake of the Holy Sacrament), and then passed on to a heroic martyr¬ 
dom at the hands of the Mohawks, fulfilling the prophecy which he had made 
when leaving Montreal, “ Ibo, nec redibo.” For a eenturythe lake was known in 
the border chronicles as the path of hostile incursions or of religious devotees 
passing to the land of the fierce Mohawks. Courcelles, Tracy, Schuyler, Menteth, 
— French, Dutch, Indians, English, diversified the record. In 1746 Sir William 
Johnson concluded a league with the northern Indians, on the shores of St. Sac- 
remen t, and in 1755 he led an army to the lake, and named it Lake George, “not 
only in honor of his Majesty, but to ascertain his undoubted dominion.” (This 
name is growing more and more out of favor year by year, and most people would 
prefer either the French “St. Saerement,” or the Indian “Horieon,” — meaning 
“ Silvery Waters,”—suggested by Cooper.) Johnson’s force was soon menaced 
by 2,000 Frenchmen and Indians under the Baron Dieskau, but “the Bloody 
Morning Scout ” was followed by a total defeat of the invading force, in which the 
French regulars were nearly annihilated. Fort William Henry was built soon af¬ 
ter, and Rogers and Putnam, witli their hardy Rangers, scouted over the lake to¬ 
ward the French fortress at Ticonderoga. In March, 1757, Rigaud destroyed 300 
English batteaux and several sloops near Fort William Henry, and in August the 
Marquis de Montcalm passed down the lake with 6,000 men in boats and 3,000 
men marching on the W. shore. After picketing the southern roads, Montcalm 
opened a cannonade on the fort from batteries near the present site of the Lake 
House, and soon compelled its surrender. After the ensuing massacre of the dis¬ 
armed garrison, the fort was destroyed. But the most imposing spectacles which 
this, or any other American lake, has seen, occurred in 1758 and 1759. In the 
former year, Gen. Abercrombie advanced up the lake with 16,000 men, in 900 
batteaux and 190 whale-boats, convoyed by gunboats, all brilliant with rich uni¬ 
forms anil waving banners, while the music of numerous regimental bands echoed 


358 Route 53. 


LAKE GEORGE. 


among the hills. (This pageant is finely described by Cooper, in “ Satanstoe," 
Chapters XXI I. - XXV.) A few days later the shattered and defeated army passed 
np the lake to Fort William Henry, having left over 2,000 of their number dead 
and dying under the walls of Fort Carillon (Ticonderoga). In 1758 Gen. Amherst 
led 11,000 men in another grand martial procession down the lake, and this march 
ended in the Conquest of Canada. In 1775 the abandoned Forts George and Gage 
(at Caldwell) were occupied by New York militia, and afterwards by a detach¬ 
ment from Ilinman’s Conn. Reg., and by Col. Van Schaick’s N. Y. Reg. In the 
summer of 1777 Fort George was chosen as the army hospital, on account of its 
salubrity, and 3,000 sick men were sent here. Hundreds died of the small-pox 
and typhus-fever, and among them was the Baron de Woedtke, a Prussian noble 
who had just accepted a general’s commission. In 1777. alter the fall of Ticon¬ 
deroga, Fort George and the lake were abandoned by the Americans, but were re¬ 
occupied after Burgoyne’s surrender. In October, 1780, the garrison of Fort 
George was defeated and cut to pieces, near Bloody Pond, and the fort and the 
fleet on the lake were taken by the British. Since that day, peace has dwelt on 
these tranquil waters. 

Lake George, “the Como of America,” is 36 M. long and from one to 
four Avide. The vicinity of frowning mountains, the many beautiful 
islands, the transparent waters, and the bracing purity of the air give it 
high merit as a summer-resort. 

Steamboats leave Caldwell and Baldwin, the two ends of Lake George, every 
morning in summer, making landings at Assembly Point, C'leverdale, Sheldon’s, 
Trout Pavilion, KattskflJ, Marion, Bolton, Green Island, 14-Mile Island, Hundred 
Islands, Pearl Point, llulett’s, Sabbath-Day Point, Silver Bay, and Rogers Rock. 
The boat down from Caldwell x-eturns from Baldwin at 1 p. M. 

Hotels.— Caldwell, Arlington, Central, and Carpenter Houses, .$8 to §14 a 
week (see page 357); Crosbyside (200 guests), §12-17 a week. At Hill View, The 
Antlers, §8 to $12 a week, Diamond-Point House. At Cieverdale, lloricon Lodge, 
§8 to $12 a week. Near Kattskill Bay: Kattskill House (25 guests), §10 to §14 a 
week ; Sheldon House (100), §10 to §15 ; Lunt Pavilion, East Lake-George House, 
and Grove Hotel, §8 to §10 ; and others. Bacon Bay : Marion House (400 guests), 
§14 to §25 a week. Bolton: Bolton House (125), Mohican House (100), §12 to §20 
a week ; Lake-View House (100), §12 to §15 ; Locust Grove, §0 to §15 ; and board¬ 
ing-houses. Green Island: The Sagamore (400 guest-), #17.50 to §26 a week. 
Fourteen-Mile Island: Kenesaw House, §10 to §15. Hundred-Island House, $ 10 
to §18. Pearl Point House, §12 to §21. Hulelt's Landing Hotel, §10 to §15. 
Sabbath-Day Point: F. A. Carney's, §8 a week. Silver Bay: Brookdale Farm. 
Hague : Island-Harbor House, Phenix, Hillside, Rising, Trout House, §8 to §10. 
Baldwin: Rogers-Rock Hotel, §18 to §2'L There are several other hotels, and 
many summer boarding-houses. Send 25 cents to S. R. Stoddard, Glens Falls, 
N. Y., for the latest edition of his Lake- George and Lake- Champlain guide-book. 

The steamer crosses to Crosbyside, with its large hotel. French Mt. towers 
to the E. I ea Island is next passed, 1 M. from Caldwell, and then Diamond 

Island is approached, 1^ M. beyond. The name is derived from the beau¬ 
tiful quartz crystals which are found here, and the place was inhabited 
in the early part of this century, —the mistress of the family being gen¬ 
erally known as “the Lady of the Lake.” Diamond Island was fortified 
by Burgoyne in 1777, and was garrisoned by part of the 47th line regi¬ 
ment under Capt. Aubrey. It was attacked by Col. John Brown, with 
the New England militia who had swept the outworks of Ticonderoga, 
but Aubrey repulsed the Americans with artillery, and then drove them 
away (“ with great loss”) by an attack with his gunboats. Brown lost 
all his vessels and cannon, and many men. Dunham’s Bay and Harris's 
Bay are passed on the E., the latter being beyond Long Island, 
which is passed on the E. (with the Three Sisters islets on the W.). The 


LAKE GEORGE. 


Route 53. 359 


Trout Pavilion is a sequestered hotel above Montcalm’s Bay, near the 
best fishing-grounds, and frequented by fishermen. The Fort Ann Mts. 
loom up darkly on the E. as the steamer crosses the lake, with the Three 
Brothers on the W., and Dome and Recluse Islands on the N. This is 
the broadest part of the lake, and affords views of rare beauty, with the 
graceful Dome Island (which resembles Ellen’s Isle, in Loch Katrine) 
prominently seen. Recluse Island is a beautiful spot just W. of the 
Dome, with a cheerful summer-villa embowered among trees. This island 
has the remains of fortifications which were built by Abercrombie’s army 
in 1758, while the views from its N. and E. shores are exquisitely beauti¬ 
ful. The steamer now rounds in at Bolton, a small village with a noble 
outlook over the broadest expanse of the lake. There are two large and 
comfortable family hotels here, and in the environs of the village is the 
quaint old stone Church of St. Sacrament. The terms at the Mohican 
House (directly on the shore) are low, and the accommodations are good. 
Prospect Mt. is back of the village, and commands a broad and delight¬ 
ful view, embracing the widest part of the lake, Montcalm’s an l 
Ganouskie (or Northwest) Bays, Recluse, Dome, and Green Ids. and the 
Narrows, and Tongue and Black Mts. in the N. and N. E. Ganouskie 
Bay extends for 6 M. to the N. above Bolton, being separated from the 
lake by the lofty promontory of Tongue Mt., where deer abound in the 
late fall and winter. As the boat leaves Bolton, Parodi (or Sloop) Island 
is passed on the 1. (so named because the singer, Signora Parodi, erected 
across here in 1851). On the N. are Green and Hog Islands, closing the 
entrance to Ganouskie Bay, while Tongue Mt. is on the W. and Black 
Mt. on the E., as the steamer crosses toward the lofty palisades called 
Shelving Rock, with the innumerable islands of the Narrows on the 1. 
14-Mile Island is just W. of Shelving Rock, and has a neat hotel, which 
is much visited by city gentlemen for the sake of the fishing in the vicinity. 
The Shelving Rock Fall is about 1 M. S. of the hotel (on the mainland), 
and is a small and graceful cascade. The island is 11 M. from Caldwell, 
and the little hotel charges $2-2.50 a day for board ($10-14.00 a 
week). The steamer now enters the Narrows, where the lake is contracted 
between high mts., and a fleet of small islands is anchored in the channel. 
These islets were the scene of numerous combats in the colonial days, but 
are now deserted, save for the visits of sportsmen, who find large trout in 
their cool shadows. Steaming down between Tong\ie Mt. and Black Mt. 
(2,878 ft. high ; sometimes ascended with guides, lor the sake of its view* 
the steamboat passes the Hen and Chickens, Hatchet, Half-Way, and 
Floating Battery Islands, with the N. peaks of Black Mt., called variously, 
Elephant’s Ridge or Sugar Loaf. Just N. of the Floating Battery group 
is Vicar’s Island, with the palisades of Deer’s Leap on the W., and the 
hamlet of Dresden seen down Bosom Bay, on the E. Sabbath Day Point 


3GO Route 53. 


LAKE GEORGE. 


is soon approached (on the W.), —a long, low promontory running out 
from rich meadows and still retaining the air of peace and restfulness 
which won it the name it bears. 

In 1757 a sharp skirmish occurred at Harbor Island, off this Point, and in July 
of that year the 1st New Jersey regiment was sent on a scout down the lake, lie 
Carbiereand 400 Frenchmen and Indians ambushed the Jersey Blues in the archi¬ 
pelago off the Point, and defeated them with great slaughter. 131 of the 
Americans were killed, 12 escaped, and ISO were made prisoners, many of whom 
were put to death with horrible tortures. On the evening of July 5,1758, the van¬ 
guard and centre of Abercrombie’s grand army (light infantry and regulars) 
rested on Sabbath Day Point from sunset until near midnight, waiting for the 
three brigades of Provincials and the artillery to come up. In 1777 a sharp con¬ 
flict took place here between American militia and Tories, and during the present 
century peace has settled along these shores, although the commonplace farm¬ 
houses on the Point have marred the natural beauty of the place. 

The vast bulk of Black Mt. is prominent in the S. E., as the steam¬ 
boat runs N. to the village of Hague, situated on a widening of the 
lake, where it is 4 M. across. 

From this point parties go to the lakes (abounding in fish), of Pharaoh (12 
M. N. W.), Brant, and Schroon. As the steamer gains the middle of the 
lake again, the prospect of the pass between Rogers’ Slide and Anthony’s 
Nose, and the retrospect of the Narrows and its island-flotilla afford 
delightful views. Friends’ Point and Islands are passed on the W., and 
then Anthony's Nose (on the N. E.) pushes out its rocky ledges over the 
deepest water in the lake (400 ft.). Rogers' Slide is on the W. shore, 
and the Rogers’-Rock House is at its base. 

There is a legend to the effect that Major Robert Rogers (the chief of the 
Rangers, and afterwards a dangerous Tory officer) was chased to the verge of this 
cliff by Indians (in the winter of 1758). Suddenly reversing his snow-shoes, and 
throwing his haversack down on the ice-bound lake, he retraced his tracks, and 
got away down an adjacent ravine before his pursuers arrived. The Indians fol¬ 
lowed the tracks leading to the precipice, and saw none leading away, whence 
they concluded that he had cast himself over: and when, a lew minutes later, 
they saw him skimming away over the ice toward Fort William Henry, they at¬ 
tributed his escape to the protection of the Great Spirit. 

Passing now by Prisoners’ Island (where the French kept their captives), 
with Lord Howe’s Point on the 1., the steamboat soon reaches the end 
of the lake. The terminus is at Baldwin Station, where passengers for 
Lake Champlain take the cars on a branch railroad which sweeps around 
Mt. Defiance, and meets the main line of the Champlain Division R. R. 
5 M. distant. At the junction connections are made for Fort Ticonderoga 
oy Whitehall. To the 1. is the prosperous manufacturing village of Ticon¬ 
deroga (two inns), near the falls on the outlet of Lake George (which de¬ 
scends 240 ft. within about 4 M.). 

The Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.’s R. R. runs from Whitehall to 
Fort Ticonderoga, Crown Point, Port Henry, Westport, Port Kent, Platts- 
burg, and Rouse’s Point (113 M.), giving grand panoramic views of Lake 
Champlain and the Green and Adirondack Mts., and affording easy access 
to the ancient fortresses and the Adirondack region. 


LAKE CHAMPLAIN. 


Route 53. 361 


Lake Champlain 

was called bv the Iroquois Indians Caniaderi Guaranti (“Tlie Gate of the 
Country ”), while tlie Abenaquis called it Petoubouque (“ The Waters that lie be¬ 
tween ’’ ; i. e. between their land and that of the Iroquois); and other Indians 
called it Saranac. For nearly half a century it was called Corlear’s Lake by the 
English and Dutch, in memory of a Dutch gentleman who was drowned there. In 
the summer of 1009 a small exploring party set out from Quebec under Samuel 
de Champlain,1 the Governor of Canada, and ascended the St. Lawrence and 
Richelieu Rivers to the Chambly Rapids, where they met a war-party of Hurons. 
All the Frenchmen save Champlain and two others were sent back to Quebec, 
and those three joined the war-party. July 4, 1009, they entered the lake, and 
on the following day they defeated 200 Iroquois at Crown Point, Champlain 
having shot their chief with his arquebus. The Hurons returned in triumph, 
with 00 scalps, and the valiant Frenchman, having found the road to the lake, 
was left to make several subsequent explorations and campaigns thereon. A 
series of war-parties traversed this route for nearly two centuries, and the lake 
became the scene of long campaigns and desperate battles. In 1090, 200 French 
regulars and a swarm of Indians passed up in canoes, and marched to Schenec¬ 
tady, which they destroyed with 00 of its people, returning with 27 prisoners, and 
40 horses laden with plunder. Shortly afterward Col. Schuyler and 200 Mohawks 
passed the lake and the Richelieu River, and destroyed the Canadian town of 
Sorel. In 1695 the chivalrous Count de Frontenac (a relative of Madame de 
Maintenon) launched a Heet of small craft, and passed down to Whitehall with 
7oO Frenchmen and Algonquins. After a daring foray through tlie Mohawk Valley 
and nearly to the forts at Albany, he retired safely by Whitehall, pursued by 
Schuyler and the Hudson Valley people. The lake was held by the French and 
commanded by their fortifications until 1759, when Lord Amherst built a flotilla 
in South Bay, with a flag ship mounting IS guns, in which Capt. Loring swept 
and won this inland sea. The military and naval operations around the lake will 
be considered in connection with the points of action. 

Lake Champlain is a large and picturesque sheet of water, running 
nearly N. and S. for 126 M., with a breadth of from 1 furlong to 15 
M. Its waters are clear, and abound in bass, pickerel, salmon-trout, and* 
other fish, while the depth varies from 9 to 47 fathoms. There are many 
islands in the lake, the largest of which covers an area of 18,600 acres, 
and has a population of 1,300. Besides numerous pleasant villages and 
towns, there is one city on the lake, and the fleets used in commerce here 
number many thousands of tons. There is a large trade done between the 
rivers, the Hudson being joined to the lake by a canal 64 M. long (to 
Watervliet), while the Richelieu River affords an outlet to the St. 
Lawrence. The scenery of the Vermont shore is that of a quiet pastoral 
region, with the Green Mts. rising in the distant E. The New York shore 
presents a continual succession of barren and mountainous scenery, with 
occasional foot-hills of the Adirondacks pushed out in promontories, and 
the parent peaks looming blue in the distance. 

The steamboats on Lake Chamnlain are large and commodious, with state¬ 
rooms, dining-saloons, etc. They formerly ran between Whitehall and Rouse’s 

1 Champlain was bom of a good family of the province of Saintonge, in 1.570. He became 
a naval officer, and afterward was attached to the person of King Henri IV. In 1603 he ex¬ 
plored the St Lawrence Rive up to the St. Louis Rapids, and afterward (until his death in 
1(535) hmexplored the country from Nantucket to the head-waters of the Ottawa. He was a 
brave, rterciful, and zealous chief, and held that “ the salvation of one soul is of more im- 
portancl than the founding of a new empire." He established strong missions among the 
lluronsP feugh t the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 

- 16 


3G2 Route 53. 


FORT TICONDEROGA. 


Point, but now confine their voyages between Fort Ticonderoga and Plattsburgh, 
touching at Crown Point, Fort Frederic, Port llenry, Westport, Es.-ex, Burlington, 
Port Kent, and Bluff Point. They make connections at Fort Ticonderoga with the 
railroad. They leave Plattsburgh at 7 a. m., and Ticonderoga at 1.30 p. m Meals 
on beard. Another steamboat leaves Westport at 7 a. m. daily, for Essex, Burling¬ 
ton, Port Kent, Bluff Point, Plattsburgh, and the northern islands. The ( ham- 
plain Division Railroad runs from W hitehall to Fort Ticonderoga (22 M.), Port 
Henry (40 M.), Port Kent (77 M.), Plattsburgh (90 M ), and House's Point (122 M.). 

From Whitehall to Fort Ticonderoga (24 M.), and even to Crown Point, 
the lake is very narrow, and seems more like a tine river. During the 
first part of the journey the hills of Dresden are seen boldly looming on 
the W., and Black Mt. appears beyond, while the “ Drowned Lands ” lie 
along the shore. Beyond Mt. Defiance the train crosses the outlet of 
Lake George, and reaches 


Fort Ticonderoga 

(Fort Ticonderoga Hotel, §2.00 a day, an old mansion house near the 
lake and landing). There is a railway-station about 1 M. N. of the fort, 
pertaining to a branch of the Vermont Central Railroad, which diverges 
from the main line at Leicester Junction. The new route from New York 
to Montreal (W. of L. Champlain) all of which is now in working order, 
passes near the fort on the W. Steamers going each way stop here twice 
daily, and the Lake George trains leave early each afternoon. The ruins 
of the fort crown the high hill near the steamboat pier, and are quite 
picturesque, and command extensive lake-views. The sally-port where 
the Green Mt. Boys entered, the old well, the crumbling walls of the 
«barracks surrounding the parade, and the well-defined dry ditches beyond 
the ramparts may easily be recognized. In one of the E. bastions is a 
deep and cavernous vault which it is surmised was the garrison bakery. 
On the high point S. E. of the fort is the well-preserved Grenadiers’ Bat¬ 
tery, erected to command the landing-place and to defend the long bridge 
to Mt. Independence. There is another small battery surrounded by a 
wet ditch, on the plain to the N., while the forests to the S. and W. are 
furrowed with intrenchments and lines of parallels, redoubts, and rifie- 
pits. From the ramparts of the fort Mt. Independence is seen to the S. 
E., across the lake, and Mt. Defiance to the S. W., across the widenings 
of the outlet of Lake George. The latter summit is 800 ft. above the 
lake, and commands a noble view over its placid waters. It is best 
ascended by following the nearly obliterated military road of Burgoyne 
from Ticonderoga village (3 M. from the fort to the summit). Others, 
who are fond of the fine rowing which is obtained here, cross the bay in 
a boat, and scramble up through the forest to the summit. A road runs 
W. from Ticonderoga to Paradox and Schroon Lakes. 

Ticonderoga is a modification of Cheonderogo, the old Iroquois name for this 
locality. It meant “sounding waters,” and applied especially to the falls on the 


FORT TICONDEROGA. 


Route 53. 363 


outlet of Lake George. Capt. Glen is spoken of as holding this point with a 
picket of 33 men, in 1690, and in 1691 it was fortified by Col Schuyler, who was 
then leading a force against La Prairie. In 1755 the Marquis de Montcalm occu¬ 
pied the place with a strong French army, and built extensive works, which he 
named Fort Carilloni (“chime of bells”), in allusion to the musical cascades 
in the vicinity. Gen. Abercrombie, having descended Lake George with 7,000 
British regulars and 9,000 provincial troops, attempted to storm the fort, July 8, 
1758. The scouts told Abercrombie that the fort was weak, and he knew that 
reinforcements were hurrying to the garrison, so an assault was ordered. In ad¬ 
vancing through the forest a detachment of 450 Frenchmen boldly engaged and 
checked the van-guard. Israel Putnam and Lord Howe hastened up to the scene 
of the skirmish, and Howe was almost instantly killed. “ His manners and his 
virtues made him the idol of the army,” and “in him the soul of the army seemed 
to expire.” Massachusetts erected a monument to this gallant nobleman in 
Westminster Abbey. The French detachment was exterminated, but the Anglo- 
American troops became entangled in the forest and began to fire on each other, 
until they were withdrawn. 6,000 picked men were led out to storm the French 
works, which consisted of a breastwork (8 ft. high) and abatis, defended by 4.000 
men with artillery. Four hours of fearless charging and bloody repulses ensued, 
and the few men who gained the parapet died there on the verge of victory. At 7 
in the evening, after three heroic assaults had failed, and several boats had been 
sunk on the lake with all on board by the artillery of the fort, the army re¬ 
treated, leaving nearly 2,000 men dead and wounded on the field. Lord John 
Murray’s Highland regiment (so distinguished at Fontenoy, 13 years before) lost ^ 
of its men and 25 officers. In March, 1758, Rogers’ Rangers were disastrously 
repulsed from the outworks of Carillon. In the summer of 1759 Lord Amherst 
advanced from the S. with 11,000 men, and the French garrison, weakened by the 
necessity of meeting Wolfe before Quebec, evacuated the place after burning the 
barracks and exploding the magazine. 

At dawn, May 10, 1775, the fort was surprised and taken by 85 New England 
men, who had crossed the lake on the previous evening. They were commanded 
by Ethan Allen and Benedict Arnold, who led them through the gate and out on 
the parade, where (it is said) Allen aroused Capt. de la Place, the commandant, 
and demanded the surrender of the fort “in the name of the Great Jehovah and 
the Continental Congress.” 43 soldiers were surrendered with the fort, together 
with 176 cannon and vast supplies of ammunition. When Burgoyne advanced, 
in the summer of 1777, and Arnold’s fleet had been defeated on the lake, the de¬ 
fence of Fort Ticonderoga was intrusted to Gen. St. Clair, with 2,600 Continental 
troops, 900 militia, and 47 fortress-cannon. He destroyed the works toward Lake 
George, and strongly fortified Mt. Independence (remnants of the star-fort, and 
graves of hundreds who died of camp-distemper are now found in the young forest 
on the mt.). The bridge to Mt. Independence was a powerful floating structure, 
supported by 22 sunken piers and many floats. Burgoyne’s fleet was cannonaded 
and forced to keep out of gun-shot, but the British succeeded in getting cannon 
up on Mt. Defiance, with which a plunging fire was opened on the fort. On the 
night of July 6, St. Clair evacuated the position, and would have escaped but that 
Gen. de Fermoy set fire to his quarters on Mt. Independence. The aroused enemy 
made rapid pursuit, defeated St. Clair’s rear-guard at Hubbardton, and took his 
artillery anti stores at Whitehall, with 209 galleys and the remnant of Arnold’s 
fleet. Ten weeks later, Col. Brown, of Mass., with 1,000 men of New England, 
captured the outworks of Ticonderoga, with 200 batteaux, 293 prisoners, 5 cannon, 
and a war-vessel, and delivered 100 American prisoners and a Continental flag. 
The fort was dismantled a few weeks later, and in 1780 was re-occupied by Gen. 
Haldimand with troops from Montreal. Since the Revolution, Ticonderoga has 
not been occupied, and for many years it suffered a gradual demolition, — its well- 
cut stone and brick being carried away by vessel-loads to the rising villages on 
the lake. It is now sealed from such invasions, and is becoming known as one of 
the classic and heroic grounds of America. July 18, 1872, the Vermont Historical 
Society had a field-day here, and there were 10,000 people present. The fort is on 
a peninsula rising 10C ft. from the lake, with water on three sides and swampy 
land on the fourth. The peninsula covers over 500 acres. 

1 “ La DrapeaV de Can'll ” iean old Canadian song, which may still be heard in Lower 
Quebec. 


364 Route 53. 


CROWN POINT. 


The steamer passes through the railway-bridge soon after leaving Fort 
Ticonderoga. Beautiful views are occasionally gained of Camel’s Hump 
and Mt. Mansfield on the E., and the majestic Adirondack^ on the N. W. 
The boat stops at Larrabee’s Point in the Vermont town of Shoreham, 
and then at Crown Point (Gunnison’s Hotel), 3 M. E. of Crown Point vil¬ 
lage, whence a road runs W. to Paradox and Schroou Lakes and the Adi- 
rondacks. A short distance beyond this landing, the steamer passes 
through the narrows between Chimney Point (on the E.) and 

Crown Point. 

The ruins of the fortress of Crown Point occupy the high promontory be¬ 
tween the lake and the broad Bulwagga Bay. The point is reached either 
by boat from Port Henry, or by carriage around the bottom of the bay 
(6-7 M.). There is a lighthouse on the point, but otherwise it is aban¬ 
doned to its ancient remains of strength and pride. The immense ram¬ 
parts and ditches of the fort, its broad parade, and the thick stone walls 
of the barracks are richly worthy of attention, while from the walls of the 
northern bastions are obtained superb views of the Green Mts. in the E. 
and the rugged foot-hills of the Adirondacks in the W., with the lake 
stretching away for many leagues in the N. The peninsula is about 1 M. 
wide, and has only a thin robe of earth over limestone ledges, whose cut¬ 
ting away cost enormously during the erection of the fortress. 200 yards 
N. E. of the great fort, and near the water, are the ruins of the old French 
work, Fort Frederick. In the N. E. bastion is a well cut in the rock, 8 
ft. in diameter and 90 ft. in depth, which was cleared out by a stock com¬ 
pany in 1324, in the hope of finding treasure. There have been many ex¬ 
cavations here with this object, but only old iron and lead has yet been 
found. The ramparts are brilliant with blood-red thorn-apples (in their 
season) on great thickets of bushes. These peculiar trees are found no¬ 
where else in the State, and are said to have been brought from France. 

In July, 1600, Champlain, 2 Frenchmen, and 60 Hurons came up to this Point 
in 24 bark canoes, and here they landed and defeated the Iroquois, after passing 
the night in martial rites and singing the war-song. This was 2 months before 
Hendrick Hudson had discovered the noble river which has been named in his 
honor. In 1631 the French occupied Point a la Chevelure (opposite this place), 
lmilt a stone fort and armed it with 5 cannon, and established a farming com¬ 
munity. In 1666 Pe Courcelles ascended by boats (with 600 men) to Crown Point, 
whence he marched into the Mohawk country, and on the retreat, some time af¬ 
ter, the force halted here several days for their stragglers to come up. The de¬ 
stroyers of .Schenectady were pursued to Crown Point (in the winter of 1690), but 
here they put on skates and escaped. In 1731 Fort Frederick was built here by 
the French, and named in honor of Frederick Maurepas, Premier of the kingdom. 
The shores were then more thickly settled than now, for many miles N. and S. 
In 1759, after the fall of Ticonderoga,the fort was abandoned, and, the Point being 
occupied by Lord Amherst, vast fortifications were erected here, which cost the 
British government §10,000,000. In 1773 the barracks took fire and the powder- 
magazine blew up, partly demolishing the works, and in 1775 Warner’s Green Alt. 
Boys captured the fort. 7,000 Americans retreated here from Canada in 1776, and 


BURLINGTON. 


Route 53. 365 


hundreds died from small-pox. In 1777 Burgoyne made the fort liis main depot 
of supplies in the advance on Albany. The fort built by Lord Amherst was h M. 
around, and its ramparts were 25 ft. high and 25 ft. thick. It is still in good preser¬ 
vation. 

Just beyond Crown Point the steamer stops at Port Henry (two inns), 
a picturesquely situated village, with iron works and mines. Bulwagga 
Bay is seen opening to the S. After leaving Port Henry, a fine view is 
obtained of the Adirondacks in the W., Bald and Dix Peaks and the 
Giant of the Valley being foremost in the group. The steamer next 
touches at Westport (two inns), on the W. shore, with a road running W. 
into the Adirondacks, by Elizabethtown to White Face Mt. On the E. 
shore are seen the spires of the city of Vergennes, and the ruins of Fort 
Cassin, where Lieut. Cassin, of the U. S. Navy, repelled an attack on 
Macdonough’s fleet, which was being fitted out at Vergennes. Split 
Rock Mt. frowns along the W. shore, and is mirrored in waters of un¬ 
known depth. Rounding the lighthouse at the head of the promontory, 
the steamer touches at Essex ( Royce's Hotel), whence another road leads 
into the Adirondacks. The course from Essex is N. E., passing the Four 
Brothers and Juniper Isles, and approaching and stopping at 

Burlington 

(*Van Ness House , $ 2-3.50 a day), “the Queen City of Vermont,” 
beautifully situated on a long, sloping hill on the E. shore of Burlington 
Bay. It is the largest city in the State, having a population of about 
15,000, witli 8 churches, 5 banks, 1 daily and 2 weekly newspapers. In 
1708 Burlington had 815 inhabitants, and between 1800 and 1870 it gained 
105 per cent in population. It became a city in 1865, and is now the 
third lumber-mart in America. Most of the lumber is brought from the 
Canadian forests, and sorted and planed here, after which it is sent by 
rail to Boston and other Eastern cities. Immense quantities are loaded 
directly from the cars to the vessels (in Boston) which convey them to 
distant ports. 100,000,000 ft. of Canadian lumber are imported yearly; 
and the lumber-yard, 2 M. long, is always covered with immense piles of 
plank and boards. Several of the churches are fine buildings, especially 
the Cathedral, a large and picturesquely irregular structure. St. Paul’s 
Episcopal Church is an old Gothic building of blue limestone, with stained 
windows. This is the church of the Bishop, whose diocese (the State of 
Vt.) has 27 priests and 2,655 communicants. There are also handsome 
Congregational and Methodist churches, built of Burlington stone. Near 
the square in the centre of the city is a fine U. S. building (Post Office 
and Custom House), and the elegant Court House of Chittenden County. 

The University of Vermont occupies an eligible situation on the sum¬ 
mit of Burlington Hill, 1 M. from the Bay and 307 ft. above it. This in 


3G6 Route 53. 


BURLINGTON. 


stitution was incorporated in 1791, and began operations in 1800, the 
President being the only instructor for the first 6 years, when about 30 
students were entered here. Its connection with the State is but nominal, 
and has brought it no emolument since its foundation, when Vermont 
endowed it with a grant of 29,000 acres of land. In 1813 the building 
was taken by the United States, and retained throughout the war for an 
arsenal and barracks. In 1824 the buildings were burnt, and rebuilt in 
1825, the corner-stone being laid by Gen. Lafayette, an heroic bronze 
statue of whom (by J. Q. A. Ward) now adorns the University Park. In 
1882-83, the old building was torn down and a stately edifice erected. The 
academic department has 11 instructors, 150 students, and 80,000 speci¬ 
mens in its museum. There are about 1,200 alumni. The medical de¬ 
partment has 20 instructors and 20(1 students. The Billings Library, 
designed by II. II. Richardson, is of rock-faced and carved stone, 1(>5 ft. 
long, a magnificent Renaissance building, containing 30,000 volumes. From 
the University tower a superb view of lake and mountains is enjoyed. 

On the W., Lake Champlain is seen from below Crown Point on the S. toPlatts- 
burg on the N., with numerous islands surrounded by the bright waters which 
have become classic in American history. Beyond the lake the Adirondacks till 
the horizon, over 60 peaks being visible on a clear day ; prominent among which 
are McIntyre, Whiteface, and Marcy, the latter being the highest peak between 
the White and the Alleghany Mts. Lake Champlain is 10 M. wide here, and near 
the middle are seen the islets called the Four Brothers. The plains of Chittenden 
Co. are seen in the N. E. over the little village of Winooski, and in the E. are the 
stately Green Mts., the Verts Monts for which the State was named. Mt. Mans¬ 
field, Camel’s Hump, and other well-known peaks are plainly visible, with a vast 
expanse of farm-land filling the foreground. Burlington City is overlooked on 
the W., stretching down to the shores of its bay. The * sunset over the lake and 
the Adirondacks when seen from this point, or from the little park N. W. of the 
central square, is full of beauty. “Splendor o landscape is the peculiar boast of 
Burlington,” said Pres. Dwight in 1798 ; and Fredrika Bremer speaks of the dis¬ 
tant “mountain forms picturesquely combined with a certain degree of grandeur 
and boldness.” The view looking W. towards a peak which she calls “ le lion 
couchant ,” she pronounced superior to any lake view which she had ever seen, ex¬ 
cepting only one on Lake Geneva. 

Near the University is the Green Mt. Cemetery, in which Ethan Allen 
is buried, under a Tuscan column 42 ft. high, and a short distance be¬ 
yond is the village of Winooski, at the lower falls on the Winooski River. 
Near this village is a romantic canon on the river, at the High Bridge, 
where the impetuous stream has cut a gorge through the solid rock 90 ft. 
deep and 70 ft. wide. A noble statue of Allen crowns his monument. 

Burlington has the spacious Howard Opera-House, water-works, 7 fire- 
companies, the Fletcher Free Library (18,000 volumes), the home of Sena¬ 
tor Edmunds (and those of several wealthy New-Yorkers), and an admirable 
Philharmonic Society. The Vermont Episcopal Institute (a school for 
boys) is on Rock Point, 2-3 M. from the city. It has a fine marble build¬ 
ing in the collegiate Gothic architecture, with a small but elegant chapel, 
a massive tower, and a library which is rich in patristic literature. 1 M. 
S- of the city is the Home for Destitute Children, and 1 M. N. is St. .To 


PLATTSBURG. 


Route 53 . 36? 


eoph’s (R. C.) Orphan Asylum; the first accommodating 100, and the second 
500, little ones. 

Burlington was settled about 1775, and named in honor of the Burling family 
(of New York), who were among the grantees. It lay on the route by the Winoo¬ 
ski Valley, which had been so often traversed by the northern Indians in their 
attacks on Mass. It was fortified and garrisoned by 4,000 troops in the War of 
1812, and in the War of 1861-5 sent many soldiers to the national armies. 

Stages leave Burlington daily for the rural towns of St. George and Hinesburg. 

Two trains daily leave Burlington for Montreal. From Burlington to Essex 
Junction it is 8 M. Essex to Montreal, see page 204. Distance, 103 M., in 5|-6 
hours. 

Leaving Burlington, the steamer runs N. W. across the lake to Port 
Kent (2 hotels), a small village under Mt. Trembleau, and important for 
its exportation of iron. The old Watson Mansion is seen on a hill over 
the village. Stages run from Port Kent to the Ausable Chasm, with its 
grand succession of cascades and gorges. The Adirondack and Ausable 
Houses are at Keeseville, near the Chasm. Stages also run to Baker’s 
Saranac Lake House (46 M. W.), while a road diverging to the S. W. at 
the Ausable Forks enters the mts. through Wilmington Notch and by 
White Face and Lake Placid. 6-8 M. N. of Port Kent the steamer 
passes between Valcour Island and the mainland. In this channel Ar¬ 
nold’s fleet, consisting of 15 vessels with 70 cannon, was attacked by a 
British squadron of 31 vessels. After a hot day’s battle, in which 2 of 
Arnold’s and 3 British vessels were sunk, the Americans tried to retreat 
by night, but were closely pursued. The flagship “ Congress ” was sur¬ 
rounded by hostile ships, but fought desperately for 4 hours, until the 
van and centre of the fleet had escaped. Then Arnold ran her and the 
attendant galleys ashore below Port Kent, and blew them up (Oct. 11, 
1776). Grand Isle, or South Hero, is now passed on the E., and the vil¬ 
lage of Plattsburg (Fouquet Hotel; Cumberland House) is reached. It 
is a flourishing place at the mouth of the Saranac River, and is the shire- 
town of Clinton County (N. Y.), and a garrisoned post of the U. S. Army. 
There is a railway from Plattsburg to Montreal (63h M. ; trains in 4J-5 
hrs.); also to the Saranac and St. Regis Lakes, and the lofty central group 
of the Adirondack Mts. The Long, Paquette, Fulton, anil Tapper Lakes 
are most easily reached by the Adirondack Railroad (from Saratoga). 

The Hotel Champlain ($5 a day), on Bluff Point, is a magnificent sum¬ 
mer-hotel, overlooking Lake Champlain and the Green Mts., Valcour 
Island, and Cumberland Bay, and a vast area of land and water. It con¬ 
trols a park of 400 acres, with noble views of the Adirondacks. 

Sept. 7, 1814, Plattsburg was menaced by a British army of 14,000 men under 
Sir George Prevost, supported by a fleet of 16 vessels, with 95 guns and 1,000 men. 
The defence was conducted by Gen. Macomb, with 3.000 men in the village, and 
Commodore Macdonough, with a fleet of 14 vessels, 86 guns, and 880 men. When 
the British fleet rounded Cumberland Head for the attack, Macdonough was kneel¬ 
ing on his deck praying. A rooster, who had got loose in the hurry of prepara¬ 
tion, flew upon oneof the “Saratoga’s” guns and crowed lustily, upon which the 
men gave three cheers and went to work with a will. As the fleets met, the two 
flagships engaged each other, and the American “ Saratoga ” was sadly cut up by 


368 Route 54. 


MONTREAL. 


the more powerful British vessel, the “Confiance.” By a skilful manoeuvre Mac- 
donough swung his ship around, and presented the uninjured side and battery to 
the enemy, who was unable to imitate this action, and was speedily forced to 
yield. After hours of incessant cannonade, the battle was decided against the 
British, who lost all their vessels save a few row-galleys. In the mean tune, Pre- 
vost was repulsed by the soldiers at. Plattsburg, and lost heavily, besides being 
forced to abandon much of his artillery and stores. 

The steamboat line terminates at Plattsburg. Another line plies between 
Plattsburg and Maquam Bay (Hotel Champlain , $8-10 a week). 8 M. N. 
of St. Albans, and the W. terminus of the St. Johnsbury and Lake-Cham- 
plain R. R., for the White Mts. and Portland. Trains for Montreal may 
be taken at Plattsburg. The more direct route from Albany to Montreal 
is by the Delaware and Hudson Canal Co.’s R. R. on the W. shore of 
Lake Champlain, from Whitehall to Tieonderoga, Plattsburg, and Rouse’s 
Point (Albany to Montreal, 9 hrs.; fare, $7.60). 


54. Montreal. 

Hotels. — *The Windsor is a new and sumptuous hotel, on Dominion Square; 
St. Lawrence Hall, on St. James St. ; Hotel ltichelieu, $2-3 a day ; Albion Hotel, 
$ 2.00 a day. 

Carriages. One-horse carriage, for 1 - 2 persons, 25c. a course (within the 
city), 50c. an hour ; for 3-4 persons, 40c. a course, 70c. an hour. Two-horse car¬ 
riages, for 1-2 persons, 40c. a course, 75c. an hour ; for 3-4 persons, 50c. a course, 
$ 1.00 an hour. 

Shops. The most attractive are on Great Saint James and Notre Dame Sts. 
American money is usually received at the reigning rates of exchange, but it is ad¬ 
visable to purchase sufficient Canadian money for the tour at some reputable 
ban k. % 

Horse-cars run across the city on Craig, Bleury, and St. Catharine Sts. ; also 
on St. Mary, Notre Dame, and St. Joseph Sts. ; also out St. Lawrence Main St. 

Railways. To Boston, by St. Albans, Concord, and Lowell (Route 29), 334 
M. (or by way of Fitchburg, 344 M.); to New York, by Rutland and Albany, 365 
M. (by Lake Champlain, 405 M.); to Quebec, 172 M. (in 7 hrs.); to Plattsburg, 
63 M. ; to Rouse’s Point, 50 M. ; to Toronto, 333 M. (14- 15 hrs.); to Detroit (S61 
M.) and Chicago (1,145 M.); to Ottawa, 164 M. Steamers run to all the St. Law¬ 
rence and Lake ports. 


In the year 1535 Jacques Cartier visited the triple-walled Indian village of Hoche- 
laga, and ascended the lofty hill behind it, which, from the beauty of its view, he 
named Mount Royal. The place was visited by Champlain in 1603, and was settled 
by a small colony of Frenchmen. A tax-gatherer of Anjou and a priest of Paris 
heard celestial voices, bidding them to found a hospital (Hotel Dieu) and a college 
of priests at Mount Royal, and the voices were followed by apparitions of the Vir¬ 
gin and the Saviour. Filled with sacred zeal, and brought together by a singular 
accident, these men won several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bought 
the Isle of Mount Royal, and formed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal. 
With the Lord of Maisonneuve and 45 associates, in a solemn service held in the 
Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris, they consecrated the island to the Holy Family 
under the name of “Ville Marie de Montreal” (Feb., 1641). May I s . 1642, Mai¬ 
sonneuve and his people landed at Montreal and raised an altar, before which, 
when high mass was concluded, the priest said, “You are a grain of mustard- 
seed that shall arise and grow until its branches overshadow the land. You are 
few, but your work is the work of God. His smile is on you, and your children 
shall till the land." The Hotel Dieu was founded in 1647, and in 1657 the Sulpi- 
cians of Paris established a seminary here. In 16S9,1,400 Iroquois Indians stormed 


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St. Ann’s Market . . 

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St. James (Cath.) . . 

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St. George (Epis.') . . 

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St. Paul (Pres.) . . . 
Archbishop’s Palace . 

C. 4. 

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C. 4. 


22. Black Nunnery 

23. Gray Nunnery . 

24. Seminary of St. i 

25. Seminary of Priests* 

26. St. Mary’s College . 

27. McGill College . . 

28. Molson’s College 

29. General Hospital 

30. Hotel Dieu ... 

31. Skating Rink . . 

32. Victoria Square . 

33. Place D’Armes . 

34. Viger Square . . 

35. Champ de Mars . 


HOTELS. 

36. St. Lawrence Hall . . E. 4. 

39. Albion.D. 5. 

40. Grand Trunk R. R. Sta¬ 

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41. C. P. R. R. Station . . C. 4. 

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MONTREAL. 


Route 5If. 3G9 


the western suburbs, and killed 200 of the inhabitants, and a short, time after Col. 
Schuyler destroyed Montreal with troops from New York, leaving only the cita¬ 
del, which his utmost efforts could not reduce. In 1705 Lord Amherst and 17,000 
men captured the city, which then had 4,000 inhabitants, and was surrounded by 
a wall with 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1775 Ethan Allen attacked Montreal 
with a handful of Vermonters, and was defeated and captured, with loo of his 
men. Gen. Prescott sent them to England as “ banditti,” and Allen was impris¬ 
oned in Pendennis Castle. In the fall of 1775 the city was taken by the American 
army under Gen. Montgomery. With the close of the War of 1815, a brisk com¬ 
merce set in, and the city grew rapidly, having, in 1821, 18,707 inhabitants. The 
completion of the Grand Trunk Railway greatly benefited this place, and its in¬ 
crease has for many years been steady, substantial, and rapid. 

Montreal (210,000 inhabitants), the metropolis of the Dominion of 
Canada, and “ the Queen of the St. Lawrence,” is one of the most beauti¬ 
ful cities on the continent. It is situated on an island (at the confluence 
of the Ottawa and St. Lawrence Rivers) containing 197 square miles, and 
which, from its fertility, has been called the garden of Canada. The St. 
Lawrence is 1J M. wide opposite the city, and the whole river-front is 
lined with lofty and massive walls, quays, and terraces of gray limestone, 
unequalled elsewhere in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St. 
Petersburg. The commercial buildings in the city are generally of stone 
in plain and substantial architecture, while the number of fine public 
buildings is very large. J of the population are Catholics, most of whom 
are French, while the bright suburban villages are almost entirely in¬ 
habited by Frenchmen. Although Montreal is 800 M. from the sea, it is 
the port which receives the greater part of the importations to Canada, 
while its manufacturing interests are of great extent and importance. 

Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of McGill 
and St. James Sts., in which a statue of the Queen has been placed. The 
new and elegant Gothic building of the Y. M. C. A. (the oldest associa¬ 
tion in America) fronts on this square, and is supplied with comfortable 
reading-rooms, parlors, etc. Going eastward on Great St. James 
St., some fine banks, insurance and commercial buildings are passed, 
and opposite the beautiful Corinthian colonnade of the Bank of Mon¬ 
treal (beyond St. Francois Xavier St., the Wall St. of Montreal) the 
Place d'Armes is seen. Here is the lofty front of the Church of 
Notre Dame, the largest church on the continent, with seats for 8,000 
persons on the floor, and 2,000 in the galleries. It is 255.^ ft. long and 
144^ ft. wide, and has a chancel window of stained glass, 64x32 ft. in 
size. The interior is not striking, and the pictures are poor. There are 
two towers on the front, each 220 ft. high, and, like the' church, in the 
simplest form of mediaeval Gothic architecture. One tower has a chime 
of bells, and in the other hangs “ Gros Bourdon,” the largest bell in 
America, weighing nearly 15 tons. The tower is generally open (small 
fee to the door-keeper), and affords from its summit a noble * view of the 
city and its environs (especially of the river, the bridge, and islands). 

16 * x 


370 Route 54. 


MONTREAL. 


Alongside the church is the ancient Seminary of St. Sulpice, on the site 
of the Seminary of 1657, as the church is near the site of the Notre 
Dame of 1671. The present church was built 1824-9, and was conse¬ 
crated by the Bishop of Telmesse in partibus. Fronting on the Place 
d’Armes is the elegant Ontario Bank and the hall of the Grand Lodge 
of Masons of Canada. A short distance to the E., on Notre Dame 
St., an archway on the r. admits one to the extensive and secluded Con¬ 
vent of the Black Nuns. Farther on, the Court House is seen on the 1.,—■ 
a stately stone building in the Ionic architecture (300x125 ft.), back of 
which is the Champ cle Mars, or Parade Ground, an open space covering 
50,000 square yards, and fronted by the old building of the Dominion 
Military School. Just beyond the Court House, the Jacques Cartier 
Square opens off Notre Dame St., and is encumbered with a dilapidated 
monument to Nelson. The Jacques Cartier Normal School (in the ancient 
French Government building) and the Institut Canadien (with a line 
library) front on the Government Garden, at the head of this square. By 
the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the Bonsecours Market may 
be visited. This market is unrivalled in America, and is built of stone, 
at a cost of $300,000. It is 3 stories high, has a dome, and presents an 
imposing front to the river. The curious French costumes and language 
of the country people who congregate here on market-days, as well as some 
peculiarities of the wares offered for sale, render a visit very interesting. 
Alongside of the market is the Bonsecours Church (accommodating 2,000) 
which was built in 1658. A short distance beyond is the extensive 
Quebec Gate Barrack, on Dalhousie Square, while the Victoria Pier makes 
out into the stream towards St. Helen's Isle (a fortified depot of arnmu- 
, nition and wav materiel). To the N., on Craig St., is the attractive Viger 
Garden, with a small conservatory and several fountains, fronting on 
which is Trinity Church (Episcopal), built of Montreal stone in Early 
English Gothic architecture, and accommodating 4,000 persons. N. of 
Trinity, and also on St. Denis St., is St. James Church (Catholic), in the 
pointed Gothic style, with rich stained glass. Some distance E. of Dab 
liousie Square, on St. Mary St., is Molson’s College (abandoned) and St. 
Thomas Church (Episcopal), with the great buildings of Molson’s brewery 
and the Papineau Market and Square. 

McGill St. is an important thoroughfare leading S. from Victoria Square 
to the river. Considerable wholesale trade is done here and in the inter¬ 
secting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Cathedral Buildings are rich and 
massive, while just beyond is the extensive St. Ann’s Market, on the site 
of the old Parliament House. In 1849 the Earl of Elgin signed the un¬ 
popular Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mob, who also 
drove the Assembly’ from the Parliament House, and burnt that building. 
Commissioners’ St. leads E. by St. Ann’s Market and the elegant Custom 


MONTREAL. 


Route 54. 371 


House to the broad promenades on the river-walls. Ottawa St. leads to 
the W. to the great masonry of the Lachine Canal Basins and the vicinity 
of the Victoria Bridge. 

Radegonde St. and Beaver Hall Hill lead N. from Victoria Square, 
passing Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1853. The 
armed congregation repulsed the assailants twice, and then the troops 
restored peace, 40 men being killed or seriously wounded. Just above is 
the Baptist Church, overlooked by the tall Church of the Messiah (Uni¬ 
tarian), with St. Andrew’s Presbyterian Church on the r. A few steps to 
the r., Lagauchetiere St. leads to St. Patrick's Church, a stately Gothic 
building, 240 ft. long by 90 ft. wide, accommodating 5,000 persons, and 
adorned with a spire 225 ft. high. The nave is very lofty, and the narrow 
lancet windows are filled with stained glass. A short distance farther, 
on Bleury St., are the massive stone buildings of St. Mary’s College 
(Jesuit), near the front of the Church of the Gesti. The nave of this 
church (75 ft. high) is bounded by rich composite columns, and the tran¬ 
septs are 144 ft. long, while the walls are covered with fine frescos. 

Over the High Altar is the Crucifixion, and the Adoration of the Spotless 
Lamb, above which is the Nativity. Against the columns at the crossing of the 
nave and transepts are statues of St. Mark with a lion, .St. Matthew with an ox, 
St. Luke with a child, and St. John with an eagle. On the ceiling of the nave 
a re frescos of St. Thomas Repentant, the Bleeding Lamb, and the Virgin and 
Child amid angelic choirs. Medallions along the nave contain portraits of 8 saints 
of the Order of Jesus. Over the Altar of the Virgin, in the 1. transept, is a fresco 
of the Trinity, near which is a painting of St. Aloysius Gonzaga receiving his first 
communion from St. Charles Borromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. To the r. 
is a fresco of St. Ignatius Loyola in the grotto of Manresa, and on the 1. is Christ’s 
Appearance to him near Rome, while above is Christ Blessing Little Children. 
Over St. Joseph’s Altar, in the r. transept, is a painting of the Eternal Father, on 
the r. of which is another picture, St. Stanislaus Kostka Receiving Communion 
from Angels. On the 1. is a fresco of the Martyrdom of the Jesuits at Nagasaki 
(Japan); on the r. is the Martyrdom of St. Andrew Bobola, in Poland ; and above 
is the Raising of Lazarus. On the ceiling is the Holy Family at Work. 

Turning now to the W. on St. Catharine St., one soon reaches Christ 
Church Cathedral, the best representative of English Gothic archi¬ 
tecture in America. It is built of Caen and Montreal stone, is cruciform, 
and a stone spire 224 ft. high springs from the centre of the cross. The 
choir has a fine window and some carved stalls, and is laid witli encaustic 
tiles, while the pointed roof of the nave (67 ft. high) is sustained by 
columns whose capitals are carved to represent Canadian plants. Near the 
Cathedral is a quaint octagonal chapter-house, used also for the diocesan 
library, and the house of the Lord Bishop (and Metropolitan of Canada) 
is in the same vicinity. A short distance N. is McGill College, or I ni- 
versity, which was endowed in 1814 and opened in 1828. It is below the 
reservoir on Mount Royal, from which a charming view of the city and 
river may be gained. Some distance W. of the college, and fronting on 
the same street (Sherbrooke), is the vast and imposing Seminary of St. 
Sulpice, for the education of Roman Catholic priests. On St. Catharine, 


372 Route 51 


THE LACHINE RAPIDS. 


near St. George St., is the Asylum for the Blind, with a chapel richly and 
elegantly decorated and frescoed, and built in a light and delicate form of 
Romanesque architecture. W. of the Cathedral is the Erskine Church 
(Presbyterian), and also the Church of St. James the Apostle, a graceful 
Gothic building with an admirable tower and spire. Near the cemetery 
on Dorchester St. are the following churches, — the Wesleyan Methodist, 
a graceful building in the English Gothic style ; the American Presby¬ 
terian, an exact copy of the Park Church in Brooklyn, N. Y. ; and the 
Church of St. George (Episcopal), an elegant edifice in decorated Gothic 
architecture, with deep transepts, costly stained windows, a timber roof, 
and fine school-buildings attached. On the E. side of this square is the 
Bishop's Palace, near which are the slowly rising walls of the immense 
new Catholic Cathedral, which is to be built on the model of St. Peter’s 
at Rome, though smaller. Farther to the W. on Dorchester St., on the 
r., is seen the vast cruciform building of the Gray Nunnery (founded 
1692), with a Foundling Hospital and a Refuge for the infirm. Mont Ste. 
Marie is the large building opposite (across Dorchester St.), which was 
erected for a Baptist College, but has become a ladies’ boarding-school 
under the Congregational Nuns (of the Black Nunnery, who have, in the 
city, 57 schools and 12,000 pupils. The order was founded by Marguerite 
Bourgeoys in 1659). Farther E. on Dorchester St. are the fine buildings 
of St. Paul’s and the Knox Presbyterian Churches. There are many 
other fine churches and public buildings in the city, and the streets toward 
Mount Royal are lined with attractive villas. 

There are pleasant excursions from Montreal to Monklands and the 
Isle Jesus; to Ilochelaga, the vast Convent of the Holy Name of Mary, 
and Longue Pointe; to the Tanneries, Cote St. Paul, and Lachine, by 
carriage; but the two favorite trips are to the mountain and to the rapids. 
“ Around the Mountain," it is 9 M., by going out St. Lawrence Main St., 
by the immense Hotel Dieu, and up the long slopes to the pretty village 
of Cote des Neiges. Ascending the mountain thence, a glorious view is 
soon revealed, embracing the city, a great expanse of the river, with the 
bridge, St. Helen’s Isle, and Longueuil, and the blue peaks of Vermont 
far away in the S. On the slope of Mount Royal is the Cemetery, which 
is entered by stately portals, and shows some very creditable monuments, 
— especially those of the Molson family. 

The T,acliine Rapids are visited by taking the? a. m. train (at the Bonaven- 
ture Station,) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by which the tourist 
returns through the rapids to Montreal 'arriving about 9 a. m.). After taking a 
pilot from the Indian village of Cadghnawaga, the steamer passes out. 

“ Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur bursts upon the eye; waves are lashed 
into spray and into breakers of a thousand forms by the submerged rocks which 
they are dashed against in the headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools, a 
storm-lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single 
rapid. Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, 
did your vessel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the 


MONTREAL TO QUEBEC. 


Route 55. 373 


crash could sound upon the ear; did she even diverge in the least from her course 
— if her head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, she would be 
instantly submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute preci¬ 
pice of waters; on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are thrown 
high into the air. Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the 
wall of waves and foam like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on 
the calm, unruffled bosom of ‘ below the rapids.’ ” 

The steamer, just before reaching the city, passes under the * Victoria 
Bridge, the longest and costliest bridge in the world. It consists of 23 spans of 
242 ft. each (the centre one being 330 ft. long) resting on 24 piers built of heavy 
blue limestone masonry, cemented and iron-riveted, with sharp wedge-faces to 
the down current. The tubes containing the track are 19 ft. high by 1(3 ft. wide, 
and the bridge is approached by abutments 2,(300 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, which’ 
with the 6,594 ft. of iron tubing, makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to 
grade, and over 1) M. from shore to shore. The bridge was begun in 1854, and 
finished in 1S59 ; it used up 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost 
$6,300,000. The view of Montreal from the bridge is one of the most beautiful 
imaginable. 


55. Montreal to Quebec. — The St. Lawrence River. 

The large and elegant royal mail steamers of the Richelieu Company leave 
the Richelieu Pier (foot of Jacques Cartier Square) at 7 p. m. daily, and arrive at 
Quebec early the next morning. During certain seasons a steamer of the same 
line ran twice or thrice weekly between the two cities, leaving at early morning. 
It was thought that this day-line would be continued, and if it is, it should be 
preferred to the evening boats, as enabling the tourist to see the river and its vil¬ 
lages. Fares to Quebec, first class (with meals and state-room), $ 2.00 ; second 
class, $1.00. The Grand Trunk Railway runs trains to Quebec in 8-9 brs., by 
way of St. Hyacinthe, Richmond, and Arthabaska. 

As the steamer passes out into the stream, the fortified island of St. 
Helen is seen in front, and fine views of the Victoria Bridge, Mount Royal, 
and the city are gained. Just below St. Helen’s Isle, on the r. bank, is 
Longueuil, where there are many villas pertaining to wealthy city people. 
A short distance below, on the 1. bank, is Longue Pointe, with the Con¬ 
vent des Soeurs de la Providence, and at 9 M. from Montreal Pointe aux 
Trembles is passed, with its ancient village, which dates from 1674. The 
steamer then enters the channels between the low, marshy islands of Bou- 
cherville, famous for duck-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here 
at the close of winter. Passing Varennes on the r., with the bold Beloeil 
Mt. in the S., the mouth of the Riviere des Prairies is seen on the 1., -with 
the village of L'Assomption beyond. There are valuable mineral springs 
near Varennes, from which a steamer runs to Montreal four times a week. 
The river now passes between the parishes of Cap Michael, Vercheres, 
Contrecour, and St. Ours, on the r. bank, -and St. Sulpice, La Valtrie, La 
Noraye, and Dautraye on the 1. bank. The spires of Bertliier are seen 
on the 1., as another cluster of islands is threaded, and the town of Sorel 
is reached. This place occupies an important position at the confluence 
of the Richelieu and St. Lawrence Rivers, and was fortified in 1665 by 
Gov. De Tracey. For many years it was the summer residence of the 
Governors, and on being visited by Prince William Henry of England (af 


374 Route 55. THE ST. LAWRENCE RIVER. 


terwards William IV.) an abortive attempt was made to change its name 
to William Henry. The place has about 3,000 inhabitants, and is built 
around a large square, near which are tine Roman and Anglican churches. 
The hunting and fishing in this vicinity are of provincial fame. The 
steamer now passes another archipelago, and at 5 M. below Sorel enters 
Lake St. Peter, a broadening of the river 25 M. long and 9 M. wide. The 
lake is shallow, but has a deep and narrow channel (partly artificial), 
which is marked out by buoys and poles, and is used by large vessels. 
Immense lumber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward like floating 
islands, and bearing streamers, sails, and the rude huts of the lumber¬ 
men. In stormy weather on the lake these rafts sometimes come to 
pieces. Soon after entering this broad expanse, the mouth of the St. 
Francis River is seen on the r., with the village of St. Francis. Below 
the shores of Lussaudiere and St. Antoine, the mouth of the Nicolet 
River appears on the r., and farther down (on the 1.) is the village of 
Fond du Lac. Three Rivers is now approached, and the steamer stops 
midway between Montreal and Quebec. This city was founded (as Trois 
Rivieres) in 1618, and has at present 9,000 inhabitants, with a large trade 
in lumber, which is brought down the St. Maurice River. The Catholic 
Cathedral, the Ursuline Convent, and other fine buildings adorn the city. 

The St. Maurice River waters a district of immense (and unknown) extent, 
abounding in lakes and in forests. Portions of this great northern wilderness 
have been visited by the lumbermen, who conduct rafts to Three Rivers, where 
the lumber is sawed. About 22 M. above the city are the noble Falls of the Shaw- 
anegan, where the great river plunges over a perpendicular descent of 150 ft., be¬ 
tween the lofty rocks called La Grand-Mere and Le Bonhomme. A few miles above 
are the Falls of the Grand-Mere. These falls are visited by engaging canoes and 
guides at Three Rivers, while hunting-parties conducted by Canadian voyageurs 
or Algonquin Indians sometimes pass thence into the remote northern forests in 
pursuit of the larger varieties of game. Three Rivers is widely known for its 
foundries, where bog-iron ore is converted into car-wheels and stoves. 

Opposite Three Rivers is Doucet’s Landing, at Becancour , the terminus 
of a branch of the Grand Trunk Railway (see Route 40), and to the N. E., 
across the St. Maurice, is the thriving village of Cap de la Magdelaine. 
The steamer passes Gentilly (on the r.) and stops at Batiscan , 17 M. be¬ 
low Three Rivers, then passes Ste. Marie and Ste. Anne, on the 1., and 
St. Pierre, on the r. Lotbiniere, on the r., is seen, and then the village 
of St. Croix, standing on Pointe Platon. Point aux Trembles marks the 
transition from the low shores toward Lake St. Peter to the lofty summits 
of the Laurentian Mts. St. Augustin (1.) and St. Antoine (r.) are next 
passed, and then the mouth of the Chaudiere, Cap Rouge, and the village 
of St. Jean Chrysostome. The heights of Point Levi now appear on the 
i\, and on the 1. are the walls and spires of Quebec. Travellers by the 
night-boat should make arrangements to be awakened an hour before 
reaching the end of the route, as the view of Quebec from the river at 
early morning is a thing which can never be forgotten. 



QUEBEC. 


1. Catholic Cathedral . E. 3 . 

2. Anglican „ . E. 4 . 

3. Wesleyan Church . . £. 3 . 

4. Presbyterian Church E. 4 . 


3. St. John ( Cath .) 

6 . St. Matthew 

7. St. Sauoeur 

8. St. Roch 

9. Notre Dame des 

Victoires . . 

10. Archbishop's Palace E 3 

11. Seminary . E- 3 . 

12. Laval University .. E. 3 . 

13. Hotel Dieu Convent 

14. Ursuiine „ 

15. Gray Sisters „ 

16. Congregational „ 

17. General Hospital . 

18. Marine „ 
ig. Morrin College. . . 

20. Kent Gate . 

si. Court House .... 

22. Crown Lands Dep. 

23. High School .... 

24. Governor’s Garden 
25 Custom House . 

26. Champlain Market . F .4 

27. Jail . B. 6 

28. Wolfe's Monument . B. 5 . 

29. American Consulate F 3 . 

30. St. John’s Gate ... 0 . 3 . 

31. St. Louis „ ... D 4 . 

32. Prescott „ . .E. F. 4 . 

33 Hope „ ... E 3 . 

34. Palace ,, ... E. 3 . 


C. 3 . 

D. 3 . 
A. 2 . 
C. 2 . 

F. 4 . 


E. 3 . 

E. 4 . 

D. 3 . 
C. 2 . 

B. 2 . 

C. 1 . 

E. 3 . 

D. 3 . 

E. 4 . 
E. 4 . 
E. 4 . 

E. 4 . 

F. 3 . 


35. St. Louis Hotel ... E. 4 . 

36. Stadacona „ ... E. 3 . 

37. Parliament Building D. 4 . 

38. Post Office . E. 3 . 








































































































QUEBEC. 


Route 5G. 375 


56. Quebec. 

Arrival. If the traveller has much baggage, it is best to take the hotel-car¬ 
riage to tue Upper Town. The culeche is not adapted to carrying luggage. 

Hotels. The St. Louis Hotel (near the Durham Terrace) is a large old house, 
accommodating 4 - 500 guests, at $3 - 3.50 a day. The Albion House (on Pal¬ 
ace St.) is less pretentious and expensive. Henchey’s Hotel, opposite the Angli¬ 
can Cathedral, is quiet and moderate (for gentlemen travelling en gargon ). In the 
Lower Town are Blanchard’s Hotel and several others, two of which are French. 

Carriages in every variety may be procured at the stables, but the usual mode 
of riding is by the caleche, a singular and usually very shabby-looking vehicle, 
perched on two high wheels, with the driver sitting on a narrow ledge in front. 
These vehicles are drawn by homely but hardy little horses, and are usually driven 
by French Canadians. 1-2 pex-sons may engage a caleche to go to the Montmo- 
renci Falls, Lorette, or Cap Rouge, for $2.00. Horse-cars traverse the riverward 
streets in the Lower Town. 

Reading-rooms. The Y M. C. Association, outside St. John Gate, and the 
elegant library of the Quebec Historical Society (in Morrin College) are open to the 
visits of strangers. 

Language. More than half of the citizens of Quebec, and' nearly all of the 
inhabitants of the surrounding villages, speak French as their mother-tongue. 
Very many of them have a knowledge, more or less perfect, of the English lan¬ 
guage, while many of the British citizens speak French also. The language in its 
written forms (as seen in the numerous French books, magazines, and newspapers 
published in Quebec) is correct and intelligible, but the speech of the lower classes 
and of the rustics is difficult and often impossible to understand. It is not 
Parisian or even Rouennaise French, but a strong provincial dialect, brought 
from the rural districts of Normandy in the 17th-century, and enriched by the 
addition of later local idioms. (The sharp, dissyllabic cry with which the caieclie- 
drivers urge their horses forward, is “ Marche-done.”) 

The Post-Office is on Du Fort St. The most attractive shops are on Fabrique 
and St. John Sts., and about the French Cathedral. 

Railways. The Grand Trunk Railway has its terminal station at Point 
Levi, 317. M. from Portland, 425 M. from Boston, 586 M. from New York, and 
2,684 M. from New Orleans. It runs also to Montreal and to Riviere du Loup, 
connecting for the Maritime Provinces. The Canadian Pacific line runs to Montreal, 
along the North Shore The Quebec & Lake St. John line runs to Roberval, on 
Lake St. John. Another railway leads to Montmorenci Sails and the famous pil¬ 
grimage-shrine of La Bonne Ste. Anne (page 384). To Boston, see Routes 24 and 29, 
or Routes 40 and 37. 

Steamers. Ferry-boats run to Point Levi every 1*5 minutes ; also thrice daily 
to the Isle of Orleans ; and at varying intervals to the French river-towns. Semi¬ 
weekly steamers run to the Saguenay River ; fare to Cacouna and return, $3 00 ; 
to Tadousac, $4.00; to Ha Ha Bay and return, $7.00. Large steamers leave 
weekly for the Gulf ports; fares to Father Point (with meals and state-room), 
$4.00 (175 M ) or 2d class, $2.00; to Gasp6 (443 M.), 1st class, $10.00; 2d 
class, $4.00; by Perc6 and Paspebiac to Dalhousie, Chatham, and Newcastle, 
$14.00; to Sliediac, $15.00 ; and to Pictou, 1,021 M. from Quebec, $16.00. The 
large river-steamers of the Richelieu line leave for Montreal daily. The Allan line 
of transatlantic steamers despatches one ship weekly during the summer and 
early fall. 


Quebec, “the Gibraltar of America,” and the second city in the 
Dominion of Canada, is situated at the confluence of the St. Charles and 
St. Lawrence Rivers, 400 M. from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and 180 M. 
from Montreal. It has 63,000 inhabitants, and its chief business is 
in the handling and exportation of lumber, of which $7,000,000 worth 
is sent away annually. There are miles of coves along the St. Lawrence 
shore, arranged for the reception and protection of the vast rafts which 
come down from the northern forests. A very considerable export trade 


376 Route 56. 


QUEBEC. 


in grain is also done here, and the city derives much benefit from being 
the terminus of transatlantic lines of shipping, which makes it a depot of 
immigration. Quebec is built nearly in the form of a triangle, bounded 
by the two rivers and the Plains of Abraham, and is divided into the 
Upper and Lower Towns, the former being enwalled and strongly fortified 
and standing on a bluff 350 ft. high, while the latter is built on the con¬ 
tracted strips between the cliffs and the rivers. The streets are narrow, 
crooked, and often very steep, while the houses are generally built of 
cut stone, in a style of severe simplicity. 

Jacques Cartier set sail from St. Malo, in the spring of 1535, with three well- 
armed vessels, and steering boldly to the westward, he entered the Gulf of St. 
Lawrence and gave it its present name, in honor of the saint on whose festival- 
day he had made the discovery. lie ascended to Stadacona, an Indian village on 
the site of Quebec (whose present name is derived from “Quel bee !” the Norman 
sailors’shout on seeing the lofty precipice, or else from “Quebeio,”an Algon¬ 
quin word meaning strait.) After ascending to Montreal, Cartier returned to 
Quebec and wintered there, and in 1541 a fort was erected near Charlesbourg. The 
place was then deserted until 1608, when Champlain founded Quebec, and built a 
fort on its present site. Franciscan monks came to the new colony in 1615, and 
in 1644 a party of Jesuits arrived. In 1628 Sir David Kirk (or Kertk) attacked 
the place, and in 1629, after a long blockade, the English fleet took Quebec. It 
was restored to France in 1632, and in 1635 Governor Champlain died here and 
was buried in the Lower Town. In 1665 a large cargo of ladies arrived from 
France, and were all disposed of in marriage within a fortnight. In 1672 the 
Count de Frontenac was sent here as Governor, and in 1690 he bravely repulsed 
an attack by Sir Wm. Phipps’s fleet (from Boston), inflicting severe damage by a 
cannonade from the fort. Besides many men. the assailants lost their admiral’s 
standard and eight vessels. In 1711 Sir Hovenden Walker sailed from Boston 
against Quebec, but he lost in one day eight vessels and 884 men by shipwreck 
on the terrible cliffs of the Egg Islands. Strong fortifications were built soon 
after ; and in 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with 8,000 British soldiers. The 
Marquis de Montcalm was then Governor, and he moved the French army into 
fortified lines on Beauport Plains, where he defeated the British in a sanguinary 
action. On the night of Sept. 12, Wolfe’s army drifted upstream on the rising 
tide, and succeeded in scaling the steep cliffs beyond the city. They were fired 
upon by the French outposts ; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across 
the St. Charles the British lines were formed upon the Plains of Abraham ; and in 
the short but desperate battle which ensued both the generals were mortally 
wounded. The English lost 664 men, and the French lost 1,500. The French 
army, which was largely composed of provincial levies (with the regiments of La 
Guienne, Royal Roussilon, Bearn, La Sarre, and Languedoc) gave way, and 
retreated across the St. Charles, and a few days later the city surrendered. 

In April, 1760, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family — Dukes of Venta- 
dour — which claimed to possess records of their lineal descent from the patriarch 
Levi) led the reorganized French army to St. Foye, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, 
hoping to surprise Levis, advanced (with 3,000 men) from his fine position on the 
Plains of Abraham ; but the French were vigilant, and Murray was defeated and 
hurled back within the city gates, having lost 1,000 men and 20 cannon. Levis now 
laid close siege to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. John’s Gate) 
from three heavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant cannon¬ 
ade from 132 guns, until Commodore Swanton came up the river with a fleet from 
England. The British supremacy in Canada was soon afterwards assured by the 
Treaty of Paris, and Voltaire congratulated Louis XV. on being rid of “1,500 
leagues of frozen country.” In the winter of 1775 - 6 the Americans besieged the 
city, then commanded by Gen. Guy Carleton (afterwards made Lord Dorchester). 
The provisions of the besiegers began to fail, their regiments were being depleted 
by sickness, and their light guns made but little impression on the massive 
city-walls; so an assault was ordered and conducted before dawn on Dec. 31, 1775. 
In the midst of a heavy snow-storm Arnold advanced through the Lower Town 


QUEBEC. 


Route 56. 377 


fi-om his quarters near the St. Charles River, and led his 800 New-Englanders and 
Virginians over two or three barricades. The Montreal Bank and several other 
massive stone houses were filled with British regulars, who guarded the approaches 
with such a deadly fire that Arnold’s men were forced to take, refuge in the ad¬ 
joining houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and carried to the rear. 
Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Continentals N. along 
Champlain St. by the river-side. The intention was for the two attacking columns, 
after driving the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite before the Prescott Gate 
and carry it by storm. A strong barricade was stretched across Champlain St. 
from the cliff to the river ; but when its guards saw the great masses of the attack¬ 
ing column advancing through the twilight, they fled. In all probability Mont¬ 
gomery would have, crossed the barricade, delivered Arnold’s men by attacking 
the enemy in the rear, and then, with 1,500 men flushed with victory, would have 
escaladed the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one af the 
fleeing Canadians, Impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly back, and fired 
the cannon which stood loaded on the barricade. Montgomery and many of his 
officers and men were stricken down by the shot, and the column broke up in 
panic, and fled. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold’s men, who 
were hemmed in by a sortie from the Palace Gate, and 426 officers and men were 
made prisoners. A painted board has been hung high up on the cliff over the 
place in Champlain St. where Montgomery fell. Montgomery was an officer in 
■Wolfe’s army when Quebec was taken from the French 15 years before, and knew 
the ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope. Quebec was the 
capital of Canada from 1760 to 1791, and after that it served as a semi-capital, 
until the founding of Ottawa City. In 1845 2,900 houses were burnt and the 
place was nearly destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the greaj; lumber- 
trade which is still its specialty. 

“ There is no city in America more famous in the annals of history than Quebec, 
and few on the continent of Europe more picturesquely situated. Whilst the 
surrounding scenery reminds one of the unrivalled views of the Bosphorus, the 
airy site of the citadel and town calls to mind Innspruck and Edinburgh. Que¬ 
bec may be best described by supposing that an ancient Norman fortress of two 
centuries ago had been encased in amber, transported by magic to Canada, and 
placed on the summit of Cape Diamond.” 

“Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A 
military town, containing about 29,000 inhabitants ; most compactly and perma¬ 
nently built, —stone its sole material; environed, as to its most important parts, 
by walls and gates, and defended by numerous heavy cannon :. . . . founded 
upon a rock, and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country; 
3-400 miles from the ocean, in the midst of a great continent, and yet displaying 
fleets of foreign merchantmen in its line, capacious bay, and showing all the bustle 
of a crowded seaport; its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down 
almost mountainous declivities ; situated in the latitude of the finest parts of 
Europe, exhibiting in its environs the beauty of an European capital, and yet in 
winter smarting with the cold of Siberia; governed by a people of different 
language and habits from the mass of the population, opposed in religion, and 
yet leaving that population without taxes, and in the enjoyment of every privilege, 
civil and religious: such are the prominent features which strike a stranger in 
the city of Quebec.” (Prof. Silliman.) 

“ Few cities offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a 
commercial city together, built upon the summit of a rock like the nest of an 
eagle, while her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the face of the ocean ; an 
American city inhabited by French colonists, governed by England, and garri¬ 
soned by Scotch regiments ; a city of the Middle Ages by most of its ancient 
institutions, while it is subject to all the combinations of modern constitutional 
government; an European city by its civilization and its habits of refinement, and 
still close by the remnants of the Indian tribes and the barren mts. of the North ; 
a city with about the same latitude as Paris, while successively combining the 
torrid climate of southern regions with the severities of an hyperborean winter ; 
a city at the same time Catholic and Protestant, where the labors of our (French) 
missions are still uninterrupted alongside of the undertakings of the Bible Society, 
and where the Jesuits, driven out of our own country, find refuge under the 
aegis of British Puritanism.” (X. Makmier’s “ Lettres sur I’AnUrique,” 1860.) 



378 Route 56. 


TIIE DURHAM TERRACE. 


“ Leaving the citadel, we are once more in the European Middle Ages. Gates 
and posterns, cranky steps that lead up to lofty, gabled houses, with sharp 
French roofs of burnished tin, like those of Liege : processions of the. Host ; altars 
decked with flowejs ; statues of the Virgin ; sabots ; blouses ; and the scarlet of 
the British linesman,—all these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are 
graced with many a Cotentin lace cap, and all within 40 miles of the down-east 

Yankee State of Maine. It is not far from New England to Old France. 

There has been no dying out of the race among the French Canadians. They 
number twenty times the thousands that they did 100 years ago. The American 
soil has left their physical type, religion, language, and laws absolutely untouched. 
They herd together in their rambling villages, dance to the liddle after mass on 
Sundays,—as gayly as once did their Norman sires, — and keep up the Jleur-de-lys 
and the memory of Montcalm. More French than the French are the Lower 
Canada habitans. The pulse-beat of the continent linds no^ echo here.” (Sir 
Charles Dilke.) 

* Pufferin Terrace is on the river ward edge of the Upper Town, and 
stands on the buttresses and platform formerly occupied by the Chateau 
of St. Louis, which was built by Champlain in 1620. The old chateau 
was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a fortress, prison, and 
governor’s palace, and it stood until 1834, when it was ruined by fire. 
The terrace is 200 ft. above the river, and commands a * view of surpass¬ 
ing beauty. Immediately below are the sinuous streets of the Lower 
Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream. On one side are the 
lofty, fortified bluffs of Point Levi, and on the other the St. Charles River 
winds away up its peaceful valley. The white houses of Beauport stretch 
off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while beyond are seen the 
farms of L’ Ange Gardien, extending towards the heights of St. Fereol. Ves- 
sels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the broad basin and the river, 
and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in mid-stream below. Beyond 
and over all are the bold peaks of the Laurentian Range, with Cap Tour- 
mente towering over the river far in the distance. The Terrace is the 
favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents a pleasant scene in the 
late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. At the upper end of the Terrace 
is a plain stone structure called the Old Chateau, which was built about 
1780 for the British governors. 

“There is not in the world a nobler outlook than that from the terrace at Que¬ 
bec. You stand upon a rock overhanging city and river, and look down upon the 
guard-ships’ masts. Acre upon acre of timber comes floating down the stream 
above the city, the Canadian boat-songs just reaching you upon the heights ; and 
beneath you are fleets of great ships, English, German, French, and Dutch, em¬ 
barking the timber from the floating docks. The Stars and Stripes are nowhere 
to be seen.” (Sir Charles Dilke.) 

The Place tVArmes is a pretty little park between the Terrace and the 
Anglican Cathedral, a large, plain building of stone, which has a superb 
communion-set (presented by George III.), and within which is the tomb 
of Charles, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Daubigny, who died while 
Governor-General of Canada (1819). The monument of Jacob Mountain, 
D. D., first Anglican Bishop, is in the chancel. Dr. Mountain was in the 
presence of King George, when he expressed a doubt as to whom he should 



AROUND THE RAMPARTS. Route 56. 379 


appoint as "bishop of the new See of Quebec. Said the doctor, “ If your 
Majesty had faith, there would be no difficulty.” “How so?” said the 
king. Mountain answered, “ If you had faith, you would say to this 
Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would be done.” It 
was. The Cathedral, rectory, and Chapel of All Saints, stand on ground 
formerly occupied by the Franciscan (Recollet) monks, and on the same 
tract the Court House is built, fronting -on St. Louis St. Beyond the 
Court House is the Masonic Hall, opposite which are the old buildings of 
the Commissariat and Crown Lands Departments, and the St. Louis 
Hotel. 

Around the Ramparts. 

The Street des Carrieres runs S. from the Place d’Armes to the Govern¬ 
or's Garden, a pleasant summer-evening resort, with a monument 65 ft. 
high, erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bearing 
the elegant and classic inscription : 

Mortem. Virtus. Communem. 

Famam. Historia. 

Monumentum. Posteritas. 

Dedit. 

In the lower garden is a battery which commands the harbor. Des 
Carrieres St. leads to the inner (jlacis of the Citadel, and by turning to 
tlier. on St. Denis St., its northern outworks and approaches may be 
seen. Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., and the Chalmers (Pres.) 
Church on the 1., and turning to the 1. on St. Louis St., the St. Louis 
Gate is soon reached. A road turning to the 1. just inside the Gate leads 
through deep entrenched passages commanded by powerful batteries, and 
by the Chain Gate to the Dalhousie Gate of The Citadel. This immense 
fortification covers 40 acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of 
Cape Diamond (so called from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity), 
which is said to be “ the coldest place in the British Empire.” Since the 
evacuation of Canada by the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been gar¬ 
risoned by provincial volunteers, and visitors are usually permitted to 
pass around the walls under the escort of a soldier. The * view from the 
most northerly bastion (which contains an immense Armstrong gun) sur¬ 
passes that from the Durham Terrace, and is one of the most magnificent 
in the world. The Esplanade extends to the r. from the St. Louis Gate, 
and the tourist is recommended to walk along the ramparts to St. John’s 
Gate, viewing the deep fosse, the massive outworks, and the ancient 
ordnance at the embrasures. Outside stands the vast new Parliament 
House, on the Grande Alffie. The ramparts are broken by the picturesque 
Kent Gate, erected by Queen Victoria. St. John’s Gate is a modern 
structure, and is both strong and graceful. While rallying his soldiers 


380 Route 56. 


QUEBEC. 


just outside of this Gate, the Marquis de Montcalm was mortally wounded 
(in 1759), and Col. Brown (of Mass.) attacked the Gate while Arnold and 
Montgomery were fighting in the Lower Town. The ramparts must be 
left here, and D’Auteuil and St. Helene Sts. follow their course by the 
Artillery Barracks (built by the French in 1750) to the Palace Gate, 
close to which is the Hotel Dieu Convent. This institution was founded 
by the Duchesse d’Aguillon (niece of Cardinal Richelieu) in 1039. In 1654 
one of the present buildings was erected, and most of it was built during 
the 17th century, while Talon, Baron des Islets, completed it in 1762. 
There are 40 nuns of the order of the Hopitalieres, and the hospital 
is open freely to the sick and infirm poor of whatever sect, with attend¬ 
ance by the best doctors of the city. Among the pictures ht re are, Virgin 
and Child, by Coypel; Nativity, Stella; St. Bruno, by J .eSueur, “the 
Raphael of France.” From Palace Gate to Hope Gate (900 ft.) the ram¬ 
parts may be followed, with fine views over the two rivers, the Isle of 
Orleans, and the Laurentian Mts. The Avails are built on a lofty cliff, and 
are very thin, but have lines of loopholes and are guarded by bastions. 
Hope Gate Avas built in 1784, and has well-fortified approaches. The 
ramparts may be followed from this point pass¬ 

ing the stately Laval University and the Grand Battery, where 22 32- 
pounders command the river, and whence a pleasing view may be ob¬ 
tained. The old Parliament House, on the site of Champlain’s fon and 
the ancient Episcopal palace, was an extensive but plain building, wnose 
glory departed with the decapitalization of Quebec. A short distance be¬ 
yond is the Prescott Gate, the main avenue of communication be.ween 
the Upper and Lower Towns, and Dufferin Terrace is just S. of the Gate. 

The Market Square is nearly in the centre of the Upper Town. On the 
E. is the Catholic Basilica of the Immaculate Conception , which was built in 
1666, destroyed by cannonading from Wolfe’s batteries in 1759, and rebuilt 
soon after. Its exterior is quaint, irregular, and homely, but the interior is 
more pleasing, and accommodates 4,000 persons. The High Altar is richly 
adorned, and the choir of boys from the Seminary is much esteemed. 
The most notable pictures are, **The Crucifixion (“the Christ of the 
Cathedral,” the finest painting in Canada), by Van Dyck (on the first pillar 
1. of the altar) ; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, Carlo Maratti; the Annunci¬ 
ation, Re stout; the Baptism of Christ, Ilalle ; the Pentecost, Vignon ; 
Miracles of Ste. Anne, Plamondon ; Angels Waiting on Christ, Restout 
(in the choir) ; the Nativity, copy from Annibale Caracci ; Holy Family, 
Blanchard. The remains of Champlain, the heroic explorer and founder 
and first Governor of Quebec, are in the Cathedral. Alongside of the 
Cathedral are the ancient, rambling, and extensive buildings of the Semi- 


QUEBEC. 


Route 56. 381 


nary, which was founded in 1663 by Francois de Montmorenci Laval, 
Bishop of Quebec from 1658 to 1688. This institution is divided into Le 
Grand Seminaire and Le Petit Seminaire ; the first being a school of 
theology, and the second being devoted to literature and science (for boys). 
There are about 400 students, who may be distinguished in the streets by 
their uniform. 


Adjoining the Seminary is its goodly child, the Laval University, 
whose main building is of cut stone, 280 ft. long and 5 stories high, and 
cost $240,000. The museum of Huron antiquities, the collection of Ca¬ 
nadian birds, the library of nearly 50,000 volumes, the fine scientific in¬ 
struments, the rich gallery of pictures, and the far-viewing enrailed 
promenade on the roof are all worthy of a visit. The extensive dormi¬ 
tories and the medical college occupy substantial stone buildings in the 
vicinity. 

On the W. of the Market Square stood the great pile of buildings which 
were partly erected in 1646, for the Jesuits’ College. The college was 
suspended in 1759 by Gen. Murray, who quartered his troops here, and 
in 1809 the property reverted to the Crown, on the death of the last of 
the Jesuit Fathers. The buildings were afterwards used for barracks, 
when used at all. Passing St. Anne’s Market and the Anglican Cathedral, 
Garden St. runs S. to the Ursuline Convent, which was founded by 
Madame de la Peltrie in 1639. Part of the present buildings were built 
in 1686, and with the gardens and offices they cover 7 acres. There are 
40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and also to working in em¬ 
broidery, painting, &c. The parlor and chapel are open to visitors, and 
in the latter are some good paintings : * Mater Dolorosa, Van Dyck ; The 
Saviour, Champagne; Christ in Simon’s House, Champagne; and a 
small picture by Restout. Within a grave made by a shell which burst 
in this chapel, during Wolfe’s bombardment, is buried “ the High and 
Mighty Lord, Louis Joseph, Marquis of Montcalm,” and over his remains 
is the inscription, “ Honneur & Montcalm ! Le destin en lui derobant la 
victoire l’a recompense par une mort glorieuse ! ” Morrin College (on St. 
Anne St.) is a neat stone building, in one of whose halls is the extensive 
and valuable library of the Quebec Historical Society (open to the pub¬ 
lic). There are several other churches and public buildings among the 


382 Route 56. 


QUEBEC. 


narrow streets of the Upper Town. St. Patrick's, on St. Helen St., has 
a neat Ionic interior, and the church, manse, and school of St. Andrew 
(Presbyterian) occupy stone buildings on St. Anne St. At the corner of 
St. John and Palace Sts. (second story) is a statue of Wolfe, which is 
nearly a century old, and bears such a relation to Quebec .as does the 
Mannikin to Brussels. It was once stolen by night by some roystering 
naval officers, and carried off to Barbadoes, whence it was returned many 
months after, enclosed in a coffin. In the front of the Post-Office, on 
Buade St., is a figure of a dog, carved in the stone and gilded, under which 
is the inscription : — 

“ Je suls un chien qui ronge l'os ; (“ I am a clog gnawing a bone. 

En le rongeantje prend mon repos. While I gnaw I take my repose. 

Un temps v'endra qui n'est pas vena The time will come, though not yet, 

Qu e je mordrais qui m aura inordu.” When I will bite him who now bites me.") 

This lampoon was aimed at the Intendant Bigot by M. Philibert, who had 
suffered wrong from him; but soon after the carved stone had been put 
into the front of Philibert’s house, that gentleman was assassinated by an 
officer of the garrison. The murderer exchanged into the East Indian 
army, but was pursued by Philibert’s brother, and after a severe conflict 
was killed at Pondicherry. Near the Post-Office is the large and elegant 
building of the Bishop's Palace. Mountain St. descends through the 
Prescott Gate to the Lower Town, with the steep, crowded, and pictu¬ 
resque Champlain Steps on the r., near whose foot the remains of Cham¬ 
plain were recently found, in the vault of an ancient chapel. 

The Montcalm and St. John Wards extend W. from the city walls to 
the line of the Martello Towers. In the latter ward is the large Church 
of St. John (Catholic), and also the Gray Nunnery (70 sisters), with a 
lofty and elegant chapel. Above the Nunnery and fronting on the glacis 
is the Convent of the Christian Brothers. The steep street called Cote 
d’Abraham descends thence to the Jacques Cartier Ward of the Lower 
Town, beyond which, on the banks of the St. Charles, is the Marine 
Hospital, a large and imposing modern building in Ionic architecture 
(with G acres of grounds) : and the General Hospital, an extensive pile 
of buildings, founded by De Vallier, second bishop of Quebec (in 1G93), 
and conducted by 40-50 nuns of St. Augustine. The churches of St. 
Sojivenr {in the Banlieu) and St. Rocli are large structures, with many 
inferior pictures, and the Black Nunnery is near the latter. St. Roch’s 
Ward is mostly devoted to manufactories and to shipbuilding (on the St. 
Charles shore). St. Paul St. runs E. between the fortified cliffs and the 
river, to St. Peter St., which turns S., and near which are the chief banks, 
wholesale houses, and harbor offices. At the neighboring wharves are the 
ships and ocean-steamers, with many small and dirty steamboats which 
ply to the neighboring river-towns. The Custom House (near Pointe a 
Garcy) and the Champlain Market are in this quarter, and are fine stone 


CAP ROUGE. 


Route 56. 383 


buildings. The Church of Notre Dame des Victoires is a plain old struc¬ 
ture near the market, which dates from before 1690. It was so named, 
and was decorated with trophies, in gratitude for the defeat of Sir Wm. 
Phipps’ attack in 1690, and the terrible disaster to Admiral Walker s ex¬ 
pedition at the Egg Islands. The Queen’s Fuel Yard is below the Palace 
Gate, and occupies the site of an immense range of buildings erected by 
Bigot, 13th and last Royal (French) Intendant. Here he lived in all the 
feudal splendor of the old French noblesse, on the revenues which he ex¬ 
torted from the oppressed province. In 1775 the palace was captured by 
Arnold’s Virginia riflemen, who so greatly annoyed the garrison that the 
buildings were set on fire and consumed by shells from the batteries of 
the Upper Town. 


Environs of Quebec. 

Point Levi is across the river from Quebec, and is a rapidly growing 
place, where the Grand Trunk Railway terminates. Upon the steep 
bluff’s are two neat churches, and a short distance to the E. is a series of 
powerful earthworks, intended to prevent the establishment of hostile 
batteries within shelling distance of Quebec. 10 M. from Point Levi are 
the * Falls of the Chaudiere, where that river dashes, in a sheet 350 ft. wide, 
down a precipice 135 ft. high. The Chaudiere descends from Lake Me- 
gantic, near the Maine frontier, passing through the Canadian gold-fields. 
Arnold’s hungry and heroic army followed the course of this river from 
its source to its mouth. (See page 313). 

Cap Rouge is 9 M. from Quebec, and may be reached by the Grande 
Allee, passing out of the St. Louis Gate. The road leads by the Canada 
Military Asylum, Parliament House, and the jail, and near the toll- 
gate (on the 1.) is seen a monument inscribed, “Here died Wolfe, Vic¬ 
torious.” The scene of the Battle of the Plains is on either hand, and the 
Plains of Abraham stretch away to the S. There are four Martello Towers 
on the neighboring fields, each built in a circular form and of heavy 
masonry, while the massive stone jail, being provided with long lines of 
loopholes, is an efficient outwork. About 2 M. out, the Mount llervuon 
Cemetery is passed, with the elegant Chapel of St. Michael, and the 
whole distance between the city and Cap Rouge is lined with fine old 
villas of the noblesse and gentry of Lower Canada. Redclyffe Mansion is 
on the cape, near where Roberval wintered in 1541, and in the same 
vicinity batteries were erected by Montcalm and Murray. In returning 
to the city, it is best to turn to the 1. at St. Albans, and gain the Ste. Foy 
road. The broad and smiling valley of the St. Charles is overlooked from 
this road, and Lorette may be seen in the distance. As the city is nearly 


384 Route 56. 


FALLS OF MONTMORENCI. 


approached, on the 1. is seen a monumental column surmounted by a statue 
of Bellona (presented by Prince Napoleon), which marks the site of the 
fiercest part of the Second Battle of the Plains, when De Levis defeated 
Murray (1759). The monument was dedicated with great pomp in 1854, 
and stands over the grave of many hundreds who fell in the fight. Pass¬ 
ing now the handsome Finlay Asylum and several villas, the suburb of 
St. John is entered. 

Indian Lorette is 9 M. from Quebec, by the Little River Road. It is 
an ancient village of the Hurons (“ Catholics and allies of France ”), and 
the present inhabitants are a quiet and religious people in whom the 
Indian blood predominates, though it is never unmixed. The men hunt 
and fish, the women make bead-work and moccasins, and the boys earn 
pennies by dexterous archery. The Lorette Falls, near the village, are 
very pretty, and a few miles farther inland are the Lakes of Beauport 
and St. Charles. The latter is 4 M. long, and is famed for its red trout 
and for its remarkable echoes. 

Charlesbourg, 4 M. from Quebec, is an ancient village, with two 
Catholic churches, situated on a pleasant and picturesque road. In the 
vicinity is the Hermitage, or Chateau Bigot, a gray and romantic ruin at 
the foot of Mt. des Ormes, where Bigot, the last intendant of Canada, 
kept and visited a lovely Algonquin girl, until his wife discovered the 
secret, and soon thereafter the Indian maiden was cruelly murdered. 

The * * Falls of Montmorenci are about 8 M. from the city, by a road 
which crosses the St. Charles River, passes several fine old mansions, and 
traverses the long, straggling village of Beauport, with its stately church 
and roadside crosses. The falls are 250 ft. high and 50 ft. wide, — a solid 
and compact mass of water incessantly plunging over a precipice of black 
rock, with clouds of mist and a deafening roar. The Montmorenci flows 
into the St. Lawrence a short distance below. Near the falls is Haldi- 
mand House, formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria’s 
father; and on the cliffs by the river are seen the towers of a suspension 
bridge which fell soon after its erection, hurling three persons into the 
fatal abyss below. A small fee is charged for entering the fields to view 
the falls, and the tourist must be careful, not only to visit the pavilion 
near the falls (which commands also a charming view of Quebec), but to 
insist on being conducted to a position low down on the shore, from which 
the stupendous plunge of the Montmorenci may best be seen. About 1^ 
M. above the falls are the Natural Steps, where the river has cut the 
ledges into a similitude to steps, meanwhile contracting its channel. The 
views on the road back to Quebec are very beautiful. At the foot of 
these falls an immense ice-cone (sometimes 200 ft. high) is formed every 
winter. (See Railways , on page 375.) 

Ste. Anne is 24 M. below Quebec (tri-weekly steamers), and has a small 


THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 


Route 56. 385 


inn. 6-7 M. from the inn are the beautiful Falls of Ste. Anne, below 
which the river of the same name dashes down through a dark and sombre 
ravine. The Falls of St. Fereol, the Seven Falls, and other remarkable 
objects, are in this vicinity, while just W. of the village is Mt. Ste. Anne, 
a picturesque summit 2,687 ft. high. Lake St. Joachin is a few miles 
distant, and abounds in trout, while 6-8 M. below is the bold mountain- 
promontory called Cap Tourmente. Within the village is the beautiful 
pilgrimage-church of Ste. Anne, where it is said that many surpris¬ 
ing miracles have been wrought by relics of La Bonne Ste. Anne (which 
are kept in a crystal globe). Crutches and other helpers of the sick and 
deformed are hung upon the walls of the sacristy, their owners having 
been made whole, while numerous rude votive pictures adorn the chapels. 
Chateau Richer is W. of Ste. Anne, and has the ruins of a Franciscan 
monastery on a bold point over the river. This monastery was built in 
1695, and was so sturdily defended against Gen. Wolfe (even the monks 
fought) that he was obliged to destroy it by cannonading. From the 
parish-church, near the ruins, beautiful views are gained of L’Ange 
Gardien, Cape Diamond, and the Isle of Orleans , “the Garden of Lower 
Canada.” This isle is 20 M. long and 6 M. wide, and is famed for its 
rich soil. Cartier, in 1535, named it the Isle of Bacchus, and in 1676 it 
was made into the Earldom of St. Laurent. 

The Saguenay River (Tadousac) is 134 M. from Quebec, and 
steamers run semi-weekly. Below the St. Marguerite Islands (of which 
Goose and Crane are the largest), the St. Lawrence attains and keeps a 
width of about 20 M. with 18 ft. tides, and with seals, porpoises, and 
whales playing in the clear salt water. The Isle of Orleans is passed on 
the N., and the quarantine stations on Grosse Isle are seen, near the vast 
promontory of Cap Tourmente. The Isle aux Coudres has a population 
more purely Norman in its blood and habits than any other in Canada. 
Ste. Anne, on the S. E. shore, has a Catholic College (French), and 
Malbaie (Murray Bay), 80 M. from Quebec, is a favorite summer-resort 
for the better classes of the French Canadians. The steamer crosses to 
Riviere du Loup, the terminus of the Grand Trunk Railway on the E.; 
6 M. from which is Cacouna (St. Lawrence Hall, &c.), the Newport of 
Canada, where thousands of visitors enjoy sea-bathing during the heats 
of summer. A railway runs from Riviere du Loup to the Grand Falls of 
the St. .John River (see page 323). The steamer now crosses the wide river 
to Tadousac (large summer-hotel), a post of the Hudson’s Bay Company at 
the mouth of the Saguenay River. Tadousac was early fortitied by the 
French ; it was the residence of Pcre Marquette, who explored the Missis¬ 
sippi Valley; and it now has a venerable Catholic church, which is said to 
be more than 2^ centuries old. The vast canon through which the Saguenay 
rolls its black waters is now entered, and lofty peaks and palisades tower 
17 y 


386 Route 56. 


TIIE SAGUENAY RIVER. 


on either side. After passing La Boule and the Profiles, 34 M. above 
Tadousac, the majestic * Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity rise on the S. 
to the height of 2,000 ft. each, guarding the entrance to Trinity Bay. The 
water at the base of these peaks is over GOO fathoms deep. 1 

“ Suddenly the boat rounded the corner of the three steps, each 500 ft. high, in 
which Cape Eternity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side’ of 
the awful cliff. It is sheer rock, springing from the black water, and stretching 
upward with a weary, effort-like aspect, in long impulses of stone marked by deep 
seams from space to space, till, 1,500 tt. in air, its vast brow beetles forward, and 

frowns with a scattering fringe of pines.The rock ndly justifies its attributive 

height to the eye, which follows the upward rush of the mighty acclivity, steep 
after steep, till it wins the cloud-capt summit, when the measureless mass seems 
to swing and sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that 
besets him who looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly 
grim and stern ; no touch of beauty relieves the austere majesty of that presence. 
At the foot of Cape Eternity the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads, a 
black expanse, in the rounding hollow of shores of unimaginable wildness and 
desolation, and issues again in its river’s course around the base of Cape Trinity. 
This is yet loftier than the sister cliff, but it slopes gently backward from the 
stream, and from foot to crest it is heavily clothed with a forest of pines. The 
woods that hitherto have shagged the hills with a stunted and meagre growth, 
showing long stretches scarred by fire, now assume a stately size, and assemble 
themselves compactly upon the side of the mountain, setting their serried stems 
one rank above another, till the summit is crowned with the mass of their dark 
green plumes, dense and soft and beautiful; so that the spirit, perturbed by the 
spectacle o. the other cliff, is calmed and assuaged by the serene grandeur of this." 

■— From W. D. IIowells’s A Chance Acquaintance. 

Statue Point and Les Tableaux are next passed, and then If a Ifa Bay 
is reached, with its two small villages, 35 - 40 M. above which is 
Chicoutimi, at the head of ship navigation. 60 M. farther W., in the 
bosom of a vast and desolate wilderness, is the reservoir of the Saguenay, 
the great Lake of St. John. 

From Quebec to Springfield, Hartford, New Haven, and New York, 
see Route 24. From Quebec to Boston, by Lake Memphremagog, White 
River Junction, and Concord, see Routes 24 and 29 ; to Boston, by way of 
Gorham, Portland, and the sea-shore, see Routes 40 and 37; or by way of 
Gorham, Portland, and Lawrence, see Routes 40 and 38. 

i In recent maps and descriptions the name of Eternity has been given to the 
N. cape, and Trinity to the other. This is not correct, for the N. cape was 
named La Trinite by the Jesuits, on account of its union of three vast sections 
into one mountain. It is known by that name among the old pilots and river- 
people. 

The Quebec Lake St. John Railway runs from Quebec to Roberval 
(Hotel Roberval ), on Lake St. John, far in the northern wilderness. Steam¬ 
boats ply about the lake, calling at the French-Canadian villages. 



SCHENECTADY. 


Route 57. 387 


57. Boston to Niagara Falls. 

By the Boston & Albany R. R. and the N. Y. Central & Hudson River R. R. in 
507£ M. 

This route has long formed one of the favorite excursions from New England, 
and passes through a line diversity of scenery. The densely populated Eastern 
counties of Mass, are succeeded by the rich agricultural lands of Worcester Coun¬ 
ty ; and the chief inland cities of the Bay State — Worcester, Springfield, and 
Pittsfield — are passed in succession. Beyond the picturesque scenery of the Berk¬ 
shire Hills, the line descends into the fair Hudson River valley, and crosses the 
broad Hudson at Albany. 

Chief Stations. — Boston ; S. Framingham, 21 M.; Worcester, 44 ; W. 
Brookfield, 09 ; Palmer, 83 ; Springfield, 98 ; Westfield, 108 ; Chester, 126; Pitts¬ 
field, 151 ; Chatham, 177 ; Albany, 202. N. Y. Central R. R. —Albany ; Schenec¬ 
tady, 219 M. (from Boston) ; Amsterdam, 235 ; Fort Plain, 260 ; Little Falls, 275£ ; 
Utica, 297; Rome, 311 ; Oneida, 324 ; Syracuse, 350^ ; Weedsport, 371 ; Palmyra, 
408£ ; Rochester, 430£ ; Spencerport, 440 ; Holley, 453 ; Medina, 471 ; Gasport, 
481 ; Lockport, 487 ; Suspension Bridge, 506; Niagara Falls, 507j. 

For a description of the route from Boston to Springfield, see Route 24 
(page 124); and from Springfield to Albany, see Route 22 (page 141). 




The N. Y. Central R. R. “ traverses the garden of N. Y. State, rich in 
agricultural and industrial resources, and teeming with a large popula¬ 
tion.” Beyond the great cattle-yards of W. Albany the train reaches the 
Mohawk River and the city of Schenectady (The Edison), a quaint old 
place, with 20,000 inhabitants and large iron-works. It was founded in 
1662, and was destroyed by the French in 1690, after a terrible massacre 
of the citizens. On the r. are seen the buildings of Union University 
(formerly Union College), an old and richly endowed institution over 
which Eliphalet Nott presided from 1804 until 1866. Beyond the alluvial 
plains of Glenville the train reaches Amsterdam (Central House), a thriv¬ 
ing factory-citv of 18,000 inhabitants, situated in a fertile country. 

Tribes’ Hill was the council-ground of the valiant Mohawks, who aided the 
early English and Dutch settlers, and waged sanguinary war against the French, 
even to the extent of destroying Montreal. In this vicinity were the mansions of 
the powerful Johnson family, whose influence over the Indians was almost bound¬ 
less. Sir William Johnson commanded the forces at the Battle of Lake George 
(see page 356); and Sir J ohn declared against America at the outbreak of the 
Revolution, and led his tenantry and Indian allies in destructive raids through 
Central New York. 

Fonda (Fonda Hotel ) is a pleasant village of Dutch origin, and is the 
capital of Montgomery County. A branch railroad runs thence 10 M. N. 
by Johnstown to Gloversville , which is famous for its glove-manufactories. 
The train passes the high hills called The Noses, and at Palatine Bridge 
(settled by Palatine Germans in 1713) the pretty hamlet of Canajoharie 


388 Route 57. 


TRENTON FALLS. 


is seen on the 1. bank of the Mohawk. Daily stages run thence 12 M. S. 
to the favorite summer-resort of Sharon Springs (“ the Baden Baden of 
America”). Fort Plain (Union Hall) is a large village in the centre of a 
district which is rich in the history and legends of the old wars. After 
crossing the E. Canada Creek the line traverses the Manheim intervales 
and reaches Little Falls (Benton House), a busy factory village pictur¬ 
esquely built in the narrow gorge where the rapid Mohawk breaks through 
a rocky ridge 600 ft. high. Great quantities of rich cheese are for¬ 
warded from this point, and also from the next station, Herkimer (the 
capital of Herkimer County). Ilion is the seat of the Remington ride- 
factory, where large armaments have been made for Egypt, Japan, Rome, 
Denmark, Spain, Sweden, and the S. American republics. During 7 
months of the Franco-Prussian War the works ran night and day, and 
made 155,000 rides for France. Crossing the Mohawk River the train 
reaches Utica (* Butterfield House; Baggs ’ Hotel), a thriving city of 
44,000 inhabitants, with 34 churches, 5 banks, and 3 daily papers. There 
is a large Welsh and German population here; and the manufactures of 
the city are manifold and lucrative. In the W. suburb are the imposing 
buildings of the State Insane Asylum. 

* Trenton Falls (* Moure's Trenton Falls Hotel) are 17 M. N. W. of 
Utica by the Utica k Black River R. R. (in 40 min. ; fare, 75c.), and are 
of rare and picturesque beauty. They are formed by the W. Canada 
Creek, which here descends in a profound limestone ravine, and have a 
singular appearance by reason of the amber color of the water. The hotel 
and falls are 1 M. from the station (carriages, 50c.). The Sherman Falls 
are the drst approached, and 800 ft. beyond are the * High Falls, the 
finest point in the series. Above this place is the great romantic rock- 
hall called the Alhambra ; and still farther up the creek is the Prospect 
Fall. The railroad runs N. from Trenton Falls to Boonville and Lowville , 
the favorite entrances to John Brown’s Tract (see Osgood’s Middle States , 
page 155). 

Richfield Springs (* Spring House; Earlington) is reached from Utica 
by the D., L. k W. R. R. in 35 M., and is one of the chief summer resorts 
of Central N. Y. The sulphur-waters of Richfield are unpleasant to the 
taste, but are very efficacious in ameliorating cutaneous disorders. The 
village is pleasantly situated in Otsego County, near Schuyler Lake and 
Otsego Lake, the home of Cooper, and has summer quarters for 2,500 
guests. 

Beyond Whitesboro’ and Oriskany the train enters the city of Rome 
(Stanwix Hall; American), a manufacturing centre with 15,000 inhabi¬ 
tants, at the confluence of the Erie and the Black River Canals. Rome is 
on the site of Fort Stanwix, which sustained an heroic siege in 1777; and 
to the E. occurred the fatal battle of Oriskany, where the valley militia 


ROCHESTER. 


Route 57. 389 


«ere ambuscaded by the Indians and suffered heavy losses. Stations, 
Verona, near the Verona Springs, and N. of the Oneida Reservation ; 
Oneida (Eagle Hotel), at the crossing of the Midland R. R., and just N. 
of the Oneida Community ; Canastota, celebrated for its manufacture of 
delicate philosophical instruments ; and Chittenango, where many sum¬ 
mer visitors sojourn in order to avail themselves of the celebrated mag¬ 
nesia and sulphur waters (White Sulphur Springs Hotel). 

Syracuse ( Globe lintel; Vanderbilt House) is midway between Al¬ 
bany and Buffalo, and is situated at the foot of Onondaga Lake. It has 
88,000 inhabitants, 40 churches, and 9 banks; and is the seat of exten¬ 
sive manufactures. On the heights to the S. are the spacious new build¬ 
ings of the Syracuse University, a well-endowed Methodist institution ; and 
fine views of the city and lake are enjoyed from their vicinity. The Salt 
Springs are N. W. of Syracuse, near the shore of the lake, and are worthy 
of notice. There are 24 wells of brine (from immense subterranean de¬ 
posits of rock-salt) belonging to the State, and yielding 8-9,000,000 
bushels of salt yearly. Onondaga Lake is a narrow and unattractive 
sheet 6 M. long and 361 ft. above the sea. Its history is full of interest 
and is diversified with the adventures of the French, Spanish, English, 
and Onondaga sojourners in this region. Beyond Syracuse the train 
crosses Wayfie County, famous for its peppermint; and from Lyons ( Con¬ 
gress Hall) 100,000 pounds of peppermint oil are shipped yearly. Near 
Palmyra arose the sects of the Mormons and Spiritualists, so extensively 
known in recent times. 

Rochester (* Powers Hotel; New Osburn House) is a 

handsome modern city of 134,000 inhabitants, favorably situated on the 
Genesee River. It is called the “ Flour City ” on account of its flour¬ 
mills, which are the largest in the world (having an annual capacity' 
of 1,000,000 barrels); and also the “ Flower City,” by reason of its im¬ 
mense nurseries covering thousands of acres with masses of brilliant 
flowers (fruits and plants to the value of $2,500,000 are exported hence 
annually). The * Powers Buildings are the finest commercial buildings 
between New York and Chicago, and contain a large gallery of average 
American paintings. From the tower (175 ft. high) on their top is gained 
a tine view of the city and the lake. Near the Powers Buildings are the 
fine structures of the City Hall, Court House, and High School. The 
University of Rochester has stone buildings fronting across a verdant 
campus on University Ave.; and its geological cabinets are the best in the 
U. S. This institution pertains to the Baptist Church; and the same sect 
controls the Rochester Theological Seminary, whose rich library (15,000 
volumes) includes the library of Neander, the German church-historian. 
1 M. N. of the city are the extensive buildings of the Western House of 
Refuge, for the reformation of youthful criminals. The Erie Canal crosses 


390 Route 58. 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


the Genesee (near the Buffalo St. Bridge) on a fine aqueduct of cut stone 
which cost $ 600,000. The * Mount Hope Cemetery is a beautiful and at¬ 
tractive burying-ground S. of the city, near the river; and has picturesque 
hills and groves, and a far-viewing observatory-tower. The Genesee Falls 
are within the city, and are interesting in an industrial point of view. 
The upper fall has 96 ft. of depth, and is picturesque in high water. The 
great water-power derived from this fall gives Rochester its importance 
as a manufacturing city. The middle falls are M. below, and are 25 
ft. deep; while the lower falls descend 84 ft., and are the most picturesque 
of the series. Some trains go from Rochester to Niagara Falls by Albion, 
Medina, and Loekport; others by Batavia to Buffalo and the Falls. 

Buffalo (* Niagara Hotel, on the heights overlooking Lake Erie, $4 a 
day; * Hotel Iroquois , fire-proof, in the centre of the city, European plan) 
is a handsome and enterprising city of 255,664 inhabitants (in 1890), with 
a park system designed by F. L. Olmsted, 70 M. of asphalt-paved streets, 
and the imposing buildings of the City Hall ($1,350,000), Music Hall, 
Buffalo Library, and State Insane Asylum. Buffalo is one of the greatest 
of railway centres, and has more miles of track within its limits than any 
other city in the world. Its lake commerce is immense, and brought to 
this harbor 160,000,000 bushels of grain and flour in 1891, besides lumber 
and live-stock. The yearly products of the factories reach $50,000,000. 

58. Niagara Falls. 

Hotels. — International Hotel and Cataract House, each $3 to $4 a day, 
near the American'Rapids. Spencer House, opposite the station, open all the year 
(|3.50 a day), and many smaller houses. On the Canadian shore is the * Clifton 
House, $4 to $4 50 a day. The public-carriage service at the Falls has lately been 
carefully regulated and much improved, and now leaves little to be desired. 

Carriages. —The hackmen of Niagara have been a source of continual annoy¬ 
ance to visitors by their importunity and extortion. They may easily be shaken 
off by a prompt and firm refusal: and gentlemen who wish to ride with them 
should make an explicit verbal contract before starting, — in w’hich the places to 
be visited, the time to be taken, and the compensation should be distinctly un¬ 
derstood by both parties. There is then but little danger of trouble The tolls 
on the bridges and roads are paid by the tourist. No reliance should be placed on 
the hackmams statement of distances. A buggy and driver may be hired for $5 a 
day. The trip on the Canadian side includes the Table Rock, the Burning Spring, 
Lundy's Lane, the lower Suspension Bridge, and the Whirlpool (and sometimes 
Brock's Monument on Queenston Heights'). There is but little need of a carriage 
on the American shore unless Niagara City is visited, — Goat Island and Prospect 
Park being more easily and pleasantly traversed} on foot. The recent action of 
the New York and Canadian Governments has (at great cost) redeemed the neigh¬ 
borhood of the Falls, on both sides, from unworthy intrusion. The American 
shores are occupied by the New York State Park, and the Canadian side by the 
Queen Victoria Park. These (and Goat Island) are free to all visitors. 

The New-York State Park, of 115 acres, and the Queen Victoria Park include all 
the shores about the falls, and have been established by the New York and Cana¬ 
dian governments, afc a cost of millions of dollars, to give all persons free access to 
the view-points, and to remove disfigurements. 

Park-carriages run from Prospect Park every six minutes, to the places of interest 
along the Rapids and around Goat Island. The round trip costs 15 cents (2J M.), 
and the tourist may alight at Lunz Island, the Cave of the Winds, the Horse-Shoe 
Fall, and the Three Sisters, and continue his journey on later carriages, without 
extra cost. 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


Route 58. 391 


Shops for the sale of bead-work, baskets, fans, photographs, minerals, spar 
and agate jewelry, etc., abound in various parts of the village. Many of these 
articles are manufactured by the Tuscarora Indians, who live on a reservation 7 
M. distant. Indian squaws are seen at different points selling these wares, which 
are generally pretty and inexpensive. 

The extortions at Niagara have become world-famed, and are much exaggerated. 
It is true that the tourist is called upon to pay at nearly every step in the vicinity 
of the Falls (on the American side), but then he is continually using facilities 
and improvements which have cost large amounts of money and are only remu¬ 
nerative for a few months in the year. The Falls and their surroundings are fre¬ 
quently “done” by parties in a single day ; and as many rare and curious objects 
are seen as would be found in weeks of ordinary travel. The payment must be in 
some degree commensurate. Tourists who remain several days or weeks at Ni¬ 
agara can avail themselves of season-tickets to various points at low rates, and 
their expenses need be no greater than they would be at New York or Newport. 
Much of the extra expense at Niagara is due to the fact that the majority of tour¬ 
ists here indulge in luxuries which are neither necessary nor customary. Nowhere 
are carriages so needless as here, since the distances are short and the roads are 
unmistakable. A gentleman travelling en gargon may spend 2 days here for less 
than $ 10, by avoiding some of the less interesting (yet always expensive) locali¬ 
ties ; by being satisfied with comfortable, instead of luxurious, hotel-accommoda¬ 
tions ; and by walking, as he would at home. Arriving at the Falls in the morn¬ 
ing, the day should be devoted to the American side and principally to Goat 
Island (good dining-saloon in the village). Crossing to the Canadian shore at 
evening, the second day should be given to that side. 

“ It was not until 1 came on Table Rock, and looked — Great Heaven — on 
what a fall of bright green water! —that it came upon me in its full might and 
majesty. Then, when I felt how near to my Creator I was standing, the first 
effect, and the enduring one — instant and lasting — of the tremendous spectacle 
was Peace. Peace of Mind—Tranquillity—calm recollections of the Dead: 
Great Thoughts of Eternal Rest and Happiness — nothing of Gloom or Terror. 
Niagara was at once stamped upon my heart, an Image of Beauty to remain there 

changeless and indelible until its pulses cease to beat forever.I think in 

every quiet season now, still do those waters roll and leap, and roar and tumble 
all day long ; still are the rainbows spanning them a hundred feet below. Still, 
when the sun is on them, do they shine and glow like molten gold. Still, when 
the day is gloomy, do they fall like snow, or seem to crumble away like the front 
of a great chalk cliff, or roll down the rock like dense white smoke. But always 
does the mighty stream seem to die as it comes down, and always from the un¬ 
fathomable gulf rises that tremendous ghost of spray and mist which is never 
laid, which has haunted this place with the same dread solemnity since darkness 
brooded on the deep, and that first flood before the deluge— Light — came rush¬ 
ing on creation at the Word of God.” (Dickens.) 

Niagara Falls are situated on the Niagara River, 22J M. from Lake 
Erie, and 13J M. from Lake Ontario. The river is the outlet of the great 
lakes of the West, and has a width of about 4,000 ft. at this point. It is 
held by scientists that the Falls formerly occupied a position near Lewis¬ 
ton, but have receded to their present location in about 30,000 years, by 
wearing out the ledges with incessant beating. Remarkable displays of 
ice-cones and icicles are witnessed here in winter; and in 1848 the Falls 
were nearly dried up by reason of an ice-dam which held back the river 
at the efflux from Lake Erie. 

* Goat Island is 5 min. walk from 

the R. R. station, and is reached by an iron carriage-bridge 260 ft. long, 
whence is gained a tine view of the white and turbulent Rapids, which 
fall 51 ft. in a course of | M., and attain a velocity of 30 M. an hour, — 



392 Route 58. 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


“like a battle-charge of tempestuous waves, animated and infuriated 
against the sky.” Beyond Bath Island 

the road reaches Goat Island, whose sequestered groves are the goal of 
“that great circle of newly wedded bliss, which, involving the whole land 
during the season of bridal tours, may be said to show richest and fairest 
at Niagara, like the costly jewel of a precious ring ” (see Howells’s “ Their 
Wedding Journey "). The path to the r. from the bridge leads (in 5 min.) 
to the foot of the island and the verge of the * Centre Fall, whence a 
foot-bridge conducts to Luna Island, a rocky islet between the Centre 
and American Falls. The * American Fall stretches away from Luna 
Island for 1,200 ft., with a perpendicular plunge of 164 ft.; and the visi¬ 
tor can stand within a span of its curve. Fine lunar bows are seen here 
on nights when the moon is full. At this end of Goat Island is a stairway 
leading to the level of the river below the Falls. Guides and water-proof 
clothing are here furnished ($ 1.50) for persons who wish to enter the 
Cave of the Winds , a damp grotto, whose W. side is formed by the blue 
water of the massive Centre Fall. Double and triple concentric circular 
rainbows may be seen in this vicinity on a bright afternoon. The road on 
the summit of the cliff passes the bridges to the islet on which stood the 
Terrapin Tower. The * * view of the Horse-Shoe Fall from this point is 
one of the grandest about Niagara. The width of the Fall is nearly 2,400 
ft., with a height of 158 ft. (6 ft. less than the American Fall). M ear its 
centre is the smooth dark-green current which marks the deepest water 
of the Falls, — over 20 ft. 

The term “ Canadian Fall ” is often applied to the waters W. of Goat Island, but 
it is inexact, since the national boundary passes down the centre of the Horse- 
Shoe, leaving fully half of the W. Falls in the domain of the Republic. The out¬ 
line of this Fall has been so changed that the horseshoe curve is less apparent 
than formerly. In recent years large sections of the adjacent cliffs of Goat Island 
have fallen into the abyss below, and Gull Island, near the curve of the Falls, has 
been washed away. In 1827 the condemned ship Michigan was sent over the 
Horse-Shoe Falls with a cargo of animals, one of which, a sagacious bear, deserted 
the ship in the midst of the rapids, and swam ashore. In 1810 a salt-boat sunk 
off Chippewa, and 8 of the crew were carried over the Falls ; in 1821, a scow and 
2 men went over; in 1825, 5 more, 3 of whom were in canoes ; in 1841, a sand- 
scow and 2 men, and 2 smugglers ; in 1847, a young boy, who tried to row across 
above ; in 1848, two children were playing in a skirt, when it got loose, — the 
mother, wading out, saved one, but the other was swept over, grasping the boat 
on each side. In 1871, 3 strangers tried to row across far above, but the current 
drew them in, and carried them down ; and in 1873, a newly married couple, while 
rowing about near Chippewa, were drawn into the central current, and passed 
over the Falls in each other’s arms. Many other disasters have occurred above 
and below the Falls, as if to verify the Indian tradition that Niagara demands 2 
victims yearly. Two bull-terrier dogs have made the plunge over the American 
Falls without harm. One of them lived all winter on a dead cow which it found 
on the rocks below ; and the other trotted up the ferry-stairs, very much aston¬ 
ished and grieved, within an hour from the time when he was thrown from Goat 
Island Bridge. 

The * Three Sisters are rugged and romantic islets S. W. of Goat 
Island, and are reached by pretty suspension-bridges connected with the 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


Route 58. 393 


road leading from Terrapin Bridge. They afford the best * view of the 
Rapids at their widest, deepest, and most tumultuous part, where the 
base of their heaviest whirl is wreathed with mist. A light bridge leads 
to another picturesque islet near the third Sister. “The Three Sisters 
are mere fragments of wilderness, clumps of vine-tangled woods, planted 
upon masses of rock; but they are parts of the fascination of Niagara 
which no one resists.” 

From the head of Goat Island, 1 M. up the river, is seen the white house which 
stands on the site of Fort Sehlosser, near which, at the mouth of Cayuga Creek, 
Father Hennepin and La Salle spent the winter and spring of 1678-79. They 
built here a 60-ton vessel, the Griffin, and sailed up the great lakes to Green Bay 
(Wisconsin). Fort du Portage was afterward erected at Sehlosser, and was taken 
by the English in 1759, after a siege, in which the French garrison destroyed tlieir 
armed store-ships in Burnt Ship Bay. On Navy Island (near Sehlosser) the Cana¬ 
dian insurgents of 1837 had their head-quarters, and communicated with the 
American shore by the steamer Caroline. A British force boarded the Caroline 
by night, and after a short struggle beat off the crew. The vessel was then set on 
fire, and drifted down, blazing through the darkness, to the cascades below Goat 
Island, where she went to pieces (some say that she plunged over the Falls in a 
mass of flame). Col. Allan McNab, who ordered this attack, was soon afterwards 
knighted. Grand Island is above Navy Island, and is 12 M. long and 2-7 M. wide 
(containing 17,240 acres). In 1820 Mordecai M. Noah endeavored to make this 
island a home for the scattered Hebrews throughout the world. After much 
legislation and wide correspondence with his compatriots, he put up a monument 
on the island, inscribed, “ Ararat, a city of refuge for the Jews,” etc. But the 
European Rabbins denounced the movement, and the project was abandoned. 

* Prospect Park 

is on the mainland, by the side of the 
American Fall. Its chief point of interest is a platform, inwalled by a 
low parapet, on the very verge of the Fall, whence the deep abyss and the 
broad curve of the waters may be observed in security. A railway 360 
ft. long, and inclined at an angle of 33°, leads from the Park to the river 
below. The cars are drawn by an endless cable, which is worked by 
water-power. Paths lead from the base of the cliff into the spray toward 
the Falls ; also to Point View, and to 2 small caverns nearly 1 M. distant 
(the path is rugged and dangerous). Near the foot of the railway the 
tourist enters a steamboat, which is tossed about as if on a stormy sea 
by the tumultuous waters. The * view of the Falls from mid-stream (or 
i of the way across) is awe-inspiring, and gives the full idea of their great 
height, which is not obtained from the banks above. This ferry was es¬ 
tablished in 1825, and no accident has ever occurred on it. The passage 
of the river takes 10 min., and the depth of the water on the line of transit 
is 180 ft. A road £ M. long leads from the landing to the top of the cliff, 
near the Clifton House (carriages are in waiting). 

The * New Suspension Bridge is 6-800 ft. be¬ 

low the Falls, of which it gives a grand panoramic * view “ from the be¬ 
ginning of the American Fall to the farthest limit of the Horse-Shoe, with 
ah the awful pomp of the Rapids, the solemn darkness of the wooded 
17* 


394 Route 58. 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


islands, the mystery of the vaporous gulf, the indomitable wildness of the 

shores, as far as the eye can reach up or down the fatal stream. 

Of all the bridges made with hands it seems the lightest, most ethereal; 
it is ideally graceful, and droops from its slight towers like a garland.” 
That “ apotheosis of industry,” the white and slender fall called the 
Bridal Veil, is seen on the American shore, and is the end of “ a poor 
but respectable mill-race which has devoted itself strictly to business, and 
has turned mill-wheels instead of fooling around water-lilies. It can afford 
that ultimate finery.” The bridge was finished in 1869, at a cost of 
$ 175,000, and is the longest suspension-bridge in the world, being 1,190 
ft. from cliff to cliff, and 1,268 ft from tower to tower. The American 
tower (10c. for the ascent) is 100 ft. high; and the Canadian tower 
(ascended by an elevator ; 25c.) is 105 ft. high, and commands a noble 
* view of the Falls and the great ravine. The terminus is near the Clifton 
House, a spacious first-class hotel which faces the entire range of the 
Falls. Passing from the Clifton House toward the Falls, a continuous 
and majestic prospect is afforded. The Museum (50c.) is soon approached. 
It contains collections of coins, minerals, Egyptian relics and mummies, 
casts from Ninevite sculptures, a line of grotesque wax figures, and an 
extensive array of stuffed birds and animals arranged in a forest-scene. 
There is a pleasant prospect from the upper balconies, and in the hall 
below is a large salesroom for bijouterie characteristic of Niagara. Live 
lmffaloes are kept in the yard. Oil-cloth suits and guides are furnished 
here ($ 1) for the passage under the Horse-Shoe Fall. Termination Rock 
is reached near the edge of the Fall, and visitors, blinded by the spray, 
and deafened by the roaring of the waters, will be satisfied to return 
speedily. 300 ft. above the Museum is Table Rock, from which is given 
the grandest front ** view of the entire Falls ; and time should be un¬ 
limited at this point. 

In 1850 a section of this ledge, 200 x 60 ft., and 100 ft. thick, broke away, and 
plunged into the chasm below with a tremendous roar. An omnibus which was 
standing upon it went down also, and was shivered to atoms, the driver barely 
escaping by the warning of the splitting rocks. The remaining part of Table 
Rock is thought to be destined to remain firm, as there is but little overhang ; 
although a crack 125 ft. long and 60 ft. deep was left when the great crash took 
place. 

The * Burning Spring is 2 M. above Table Rock, and should be ap¬ 
proached by the river-road, which affords a fine view of the Great Ox-Bow 
Rapids and the broad river above. Just above is the fine mansion and 
park formerly owned by Mr. Street, a retired bachelor and fervid lover of 
Nature, who won the ill-will of the inhabitants of this section and the 
gratitude of all tourists by refusing to allow mills to be erected on his 
wide riverward domains. The Burning Spring (40c. admission) is highly 
charged with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, which burns with an intermit- 



NIAGARA FALLS. 


Route 58. 395 


tent pale-blue flame when ignited. The water is in a state of ebullition, 
and the spring-house is kept darkened to increase the effect. A tub with 
a long iron pipe through the bottom is inverted over the water, and a 
constant stream of gas passes through it, affording a jet of flame over 3 
ft. high. The spring is at the water’s edge, and overlooks the white rapids 
to Goat Island ; while nearer at hand is Cynthia Island, joined to the 
Street domain by a pretty footbridge. It is best to return to the Falls by 
the parallel road on the heights, near the Loretto Convent, from which good 
views are gained, including the best overview of the Horse-Shoe. “ By all 
odds, too, the most tremendous view of the Falls is afforded by the point 
on this drive whence you look down upon the Horse-Shoe, and behold its 
three massive walls of sea rounding and sweeping into the gulf together, 
the color gone, and the smooth brink showing black and ridgy.” A road 
diverging to the 1., near the Falls, leads to the hamlet of Drummondmlle 
(lj M. from Table Rock), on whose heights is a tower which overlooks the 
battle-field of Lundy’s Lane and a great extent of country, from Brock’s 
monument on Queenston Heights to Buffalo and Lake Erie. 

The * Suspension Bridge which connects Niagara City (so called) and 
Clifton, and sustains the track of the Great Western Railway, is about 2 
M. N. of the Falls. It was built in 1852, under the direction of John A. 
Roebling, and cost $ 500,000. It is 800 ft. long, and 230 ft. above the 
river, and weighs 800 tons, being fitted to sustain a maximum weight of 
7,309 tons. The first wire was drawn across by a string which had been 
carried over on a kite. 18 ft. above the carriage-way is the railway-floor 
over which the heaviest trains pass safely, causing a deflection in the curve 
of but 5-10 inches. On the S. W. the New Suspension Bridge and the 
Falls are seen, while on the N. are the white and terrible * Whirlpool 
Rapids. Just beyond the Monteagle House (American side) is a double 
elevator (50c.), which leads from the top of the bank 300 ft. down to the 
verge of these marvellous rapids, where the waters of the great lakes are 
compressed into a narrow gorge, and rush down with such fury that the 
centre of the stream is 30 ft. higher than the sides. June 15, 1867, 
the intrepid pilot Robinson guided the steamer Maid of the Mist as she 
shot these rapids, “ like the swift sailing of a large bird in a downward 
flight.” Her smoke-stack was beaten down, and the vessel was tossed 
like a leaf on the huge surges, but speedily reached the calm water below 
Lewiston in safety. About 1 M. below the rapids is the Whirlpool, 
situated in a circular bend of the river, and bounded by cliff’s 350 ft. high. 
Logs and other things which are drawn into these concentric currents 
whirl about there for many days. 

Queenston is an insignificant Canadian hamlet 6 M. N. of the Falls ; 
above which a lofty monument was erected on the place where Gen. Brock 
fell in the battle of Queenston Heights. This was blown up by a scoun- 



396 Route 58. 


NIAGARA FALLS. 


drelly refugee in 1840 ; and in 1853 the present noble * monument was 
dedicated. On a base 40 ft. square and 20 ft. high are 4 colossal lions, 
between which rises a lofty fluted shaft of sandstone. On the Corinthian 
capital is a relief of the Goddess of War, and above this is a dome which 
supports a colossal statue of Gen. Brock. The monument is 185 ft. high, 
and is ascended by an inner spiral stairway of 250 steps. The view from 
this point is extensive, and includes the tower on Lundy’s Lane, a consid¬ 
erable sweep of the river, and the broad lake. 

It is probable that the fearless Franciscan monks and the adventurous fur- 
traders of France had often seen the Falls at a very early day. But the first de¬ 
scription (with a sketch) was made by Father Hennepin in 1078, who gave them a 
height of 000 ft., saying also : “Betwixt the Lakes Erie and Ontario there is a 
vast and prodigious cadence of water which falls down a surprising and astonish¬ 
ing height, insomuch that the universe does not afford its parallel.The 

waters which fall from this horrible precipice do foam and boil after the most 
hideous manner imaginable, making an outrageous noise, more terrible than that 
of thunder ; for when the wind blows out of the S. their dismal roaring may be 
heard more than 15 leagues. The river Niagara, having thrown itself down this 
incredible precipice, continues its impetuous course for 2 leagues together .... 

with an inexpressible rapidity.The two brinks of it are so prodigious high 

that it would make one tremble to look steadily upon the water rolling along with 
a rapidity not to be imagined.” Before this visit the peaceful Kahkwa tribe 
(called the Neuter Nation) had been driven from the region, and the Senecas had 
replaced them, but did not dwell near the cascades (Hennepin thinks they feared 
to be made deaf by “the horrid noise of the Fall”). In 1687 the Baron La 
Hontan visited the Falls, and reported them to be 7 -800 ft. high and 1J M. wide. 
The name Niagara is said to mean “ Thunder of Waters.” In 1678 La Salle en¬ 
tered the river (with 16 men, in a 10-ton brigantine) singing the Te Deum, and 
the next year sailed from above the Falls in the first vessel on the Great Lakes. 
In 1687 a fort was built at Niagara by the Marquis De Nonville ; and in 1750 Fort 
du Portage was erected above the Falls. This was taken in the year of the Con¬ 
quest of Canada, and was strengthened under the name of Fort Sehlosser. In 
1763 occurred a horrible massacre at Devil’s Hole, 34 M. S. of the Falls, when a 
large force of Senecas ambushed a commissary-train with a strong escort, on the 
shore of Bloody Run. But 2 of the train-guards escaped, while the supports 
which were hurried from Lewiston to the sound of the firing were nearly all put 
to the tomahawk in a second ambush. Many of the victims were cast alive from 
the lofty cliffs into the boiling Niagara, and their horses and wagons were hurled 
down after them. 


“ O'er Huron's wave the sun was low. 
The weary soldier watched the bow 
Fast fading from the cloud below 
The dashing of Niagara. 


And while the phantom chained his sight, 
Ah! little thought he of the fight,— 

The horrors of the dreamless night, 

That posted on so rapidly.” 


The Battle of Niagara Falls, or Lundy’s Lane, was fought July 25, 1S14, on the 
heights 1£ M. W. of the Falls. Several days after the victory at Chippewa, Scott 
advanced with 1,200 men, and engaged the British at Lundy’s Lane. He supposed 
that but a small force was before him, but in reality it was the whole hostile army. 
Jessup’s 25th Regulars charged through the lines of Wellington’s veterans and 
captured Gen. Riall and his staff, and at 9 in the evening the rest of the army 
reinforced Scott. A little later, Col. Miller and the 21st Regulars advanced up 
the heights in the moonlight and stormed the British batteries above. After a 
terrible hand-to-hand contest with the infantry supports, Miller held the hill, with 
7 pieces of British artillery, and repulsed 4 charges of the enemy. When the last 
British assault was disastrously repulsed, the Americans remained in possession 
of the enemy’s positions and guns. Later in the night they retired a short dis¬ 
tance from the field and battery, which were reoccupied by the royalists. There 
were 2,600 Americans in this battle (of whom 852 were lost), and 4,500 British (of 
whom 878 were lost). The Battle of Niagara Falls “has few parallels in history 




TORONTO. 


Route 59. 39 7 


in its wealth of gallant deeds. It was fought wholly in the shadows of a summer 

evening between sunset and midnight.Above was a serene sky, a placid 

moon in its wane, and innumerable stars, — a vision of Beauty and Peace ; below 
was the sulphurous smoke of battle, .... out of which came the quick flashes 
of lightning and the bellowing of the echoes of its voice, —a vision of Horror and 
Strife. Musket, rocket, and cannon, cracking, hissing, and booming; and the 
clash of sabre and bayonet, with the cries of human voices, made a horrid din 
that commingled with the awful, solemn roar of the great cataract hard by, whose 
muffled thunder-tones rolled on, on, forever, in iniinite grandeur when the puny 
drum had ceased to beat, and silence had settled upon the field of carnage. There 
the dead were buried, and the mighty diapason of the flood was their requiem. ” 
(Lossing.) 


59. Niagara Falls to Toronto and Montreal. 

The St. Lawrence River. 

Some tourists prefer to go to Hamilton or to Charlotte (Rochester) by- 
rail, and there to take the steamer; and numerous other combinations of 
rail and water navigation are made. Perhaps the favorite route is by 
cars (twice daily) along the profound gorge of the Niagara to Lewiston, 
whence a steamer descends the river, with fine retrospects of the gorge 
and the monument-crowned heights of Queenston. At the mouth of the 
river the American and Anglo-Canadian forts are seen; and fronting on 
the lake is The Queen's Royal Niagara Hotel, a favorite summer resort 
for the aristocracy of Toronto. Running thence N. W. for 30 M. across 
Lake Ontario, the steamer reaches 

Toronto. 

Hotels. — * Rossin House, S3 a day ; Queen’s Hotel, Front St., S3 ; Mansion 
House, corner King and York Sts., 81.50-2; Revere ; American ; Albion. Amuse¬ 
ments at the Royal Lyceum Theatre, and at Shaftesbury Hall. Post-Office, on 
Adelaide St., at the head of Toronto. Y. M. C. A., corner of King and James 
Sts. 

Hallways. — Grand Trunk, to Montreal (333 M.)or Detroit (231 M.) ; Great 
Western, to Niagara Falls (82 M.)and Detroit (225 M.) ; Northern, to Orillia (on 
Lake Simcoe ; 8(1 M.) and Meaford (on Georgian Bay ; 115 M.) ; Toronto, Grey, & 
Bruce, to Owen Sound (on Georgian Bay; 178 M.); Toronto & Nipissing, to Cobo- 
conk (88 M.). Steamers leave semi-daily for Hamilton and for Montreal; once 
daily for Lewiston ; arid once daily for Port Dalhousie. 

Carriages, 25c. a course ; 81 an hour. Horse-Cars traverse King, Yonge, and 
Queen Sts. to Trinity College and the Lunatic Asylum. 

Toronto, the capital of the Province of Ontario and the ‘'Queen City 
of the West,” is situated on a low sandy plain on the N. W. shore of 
Lake Ontario, between the Don and Humber Rivers. The harbor is safe 
and commodious, and is protected by a sandy bar (7 M. long, and 2.^ M. 
from the shore) which terminates at Gibraltar Point. Toronto is the 
chief city of Upper Canada, and has 182.000 inhabitants; 54 churches, 
10 banks, and 5 daily papers. There are 3 large grain-elevators on the 
water-front; and the most conspicuous object to a traveller approaching 
by water is the fine building of the Union Railway Station, with its tall 
towers. The principal streets are King and Yonge (the latter of which 
runs N. for 33 M.), and the city is laid out with great regularity. 





398 Route 50. 


TORONTO. 


The * University is reached from Queen St. by College Ave., which is 
4,000 ft. long and 120 ft. wide, and is lined with double rows of shade- 
trees. The buildings (open 2-5 P. M.) form the 3 sides of a quadrangle 
250 ft. square, and are of gray rubble-stone, trimmed with Ohio and Caen 
stone. The University is the finest specimen of Norman architecture in 
America, and is bold and imposing in its outlines. In the centre of the 
S. front is a massive tower 120 ft. high, with the main portal and great 
window covered with all the wealth of Norman decoration. The massive 
columns of the vestibule, and the Convocation, Library, and Museum 
halls, with their pointed oaken roofs and grotesquely carved corbels, are 
worthy of notice. To the E. is the Queen’s Park, a pleasant domain of 
50 acres, which has been leased to the city for 999 years. It is adorned 
with a costly monument to the Torontonians who were killed during the 
Fenian foray in 1866; and also with a fine bronze statue of Queen Vic¬ 
toria, near the trophy-cannon from Sebastopol. 

* St. James Cathedral is a stately Episcopal church on the corner of 
King and Church Sts. It is in the early English Gothic architecture, and 
is pleasantly secluded among fine old trees. The massive tower has been 
crowned with a spire 325 ft. high, and the open timber roof is 70 ft. 
above the floor of the nave. The stained glass of the lancet-windows in 
the chancel is very brilliant. Opposite the Cathedral, and beyond St. 
Lawrence Hall and Market, is the City Hall. To the N., beyond the Col¬ 
lege of Technology and the Mechanics’ Institute, is the elegant and ornate 
building of the Metropolitan Wesleyan Church, near St. Michael’s Cathe¬ 
dral (Catholic). The Normal School occupies a fine Palladian building, 
and is near the Model Schools and the Educational Museum, surrounded 
by 7\ acres of finely adorned grounds. The new Post-Office is at the 
head of Toronto St., and the Masonic Hall (on Toronto St.) has a costly 
and ornate front of Ohio stone. * Osgoode Hall is a stately Government 
building (on Queen St.) in classic architecture, and is used for the Superior 
Courts of the Province. Near the Union Railway Station are the old 
Provincial Parliament Buildings, and the homely halls of the Upper 
Canada College. 

Trinity College is W. of the city (Queen St. horse-cars), and has 
gabled and turreted buildings in 15th-century pointed architecture, situ¬ 
ated in a park of 20 acres which overlooks the bay. It was founded by 
Bishop Strachan in 1851. In this vicinity is the spacious building of the 
Provincial Lunatic Asylum, surrounded by 200 acres of ornamental 
grounds, S. of which is the exposition building called the Crystal Palace. 
The General Hospital is a large building on the E. of the city, near the 
Victoria Medical College. The Loretto Abbey (45 nuns ; on Wellington 
Place) and the Convent of the Most Precious Blood (on St. Joseph St.) 
are interesting Catholic institutions. 


KINGSTON. 


Route 59. 3 9 9 


The steamers leave Hamilton daily at 9 a. m., and 

Toronto at 2 p. m. They reach Port Hope at 6.50 p. m.; Kingston at 5.30 a. m.; 
Gananoque at 7 a. m.; Broekville at 9.30; Prescott at 10.30; Cornwall at 1.20 
p. M.; and Montreal at 6.45 p. m. State-rooms should be secured as early as 
possible ; and travellers should be awakened on leaving Kingston, in order to see 
the Thousand Islands. 

Passing the Scarboro’ Highlands and Darlington port and harbor at 
about supper-time, the steamer reaches Port Hope (St Lawrence Hall), 
a pretty village of Durham County. It is located in a narrow valley 
which is overlooked by the hill of Fort Orton, and is surrounded by a 
good farming country. There are 5,400 inhabitants, 7 churches, and 3 
weekly papers; and the buildings of Trinity College are seen on the hill 
to the E. The Midland Raihvay runs thence N. W. to Beaverton and 
Orillia (66 and 87 M.), on Lake Simcoe ; also 40 M. N. to Lakefield, 
whence steamers ascend •“ a chain of beautiful lakes stretching N. half¬ 
way to the Arctic Sea.” Cobourg is reached at late twilight, and is a 
pretty town of 5,000 inhabitants, with a large trade in shipping lumber, 
iron ore, and grain to the U. S. In the N. is Victoria College, a pros¬ 
perous Wesleyan university (150 students), with neat buildings in a park 
of 9 acres. A railroad runs 13 M. N. to Harwood, on the many-islanded 
Bice Lake, whence steamers ply (on Rice and Marmora Lakes) to Peter¬ 
borough (tri-weekly; 30 M. N.) and Blairton. Daily steamers run from 
Cobourg to Charlotte (see page 390). After leaving Cobourg the Montreal 
steamer passes well out into the lake to avoid the peninsular county of 
Prince Edward. At early dawn Amherst Island is passed, and by day¬ 
light the broad harbor of Kingston is entered. 

Kingston ( British American Hotel) is the chief city of Frontenac 
County, and is favorably situated at the confluence of the Cataracqui 
and St. Lawrence Rivers, at the foot of Lake Ontario, and above the head 
of the Thousand Islands. It has 20,000 inhabitants, 12 churches, 2 small 
cathedrals, 2 daily papers, and numerous manufactories. It ranks, as a 
fortress, next to Quebec and Halifax, and its harbor is defended by strong 
batteries, the chief of which is Fort Henry, on Point Frederick. The 
bay is very broad and deep, sheltered by Wolfe and Garden Islands; and 
there are provisions for making here an extensive naval depot in time of 
war. W. of the city is the Queen’s University, a Presbyterian institution, 
with faculties of arts and theology. The Catholic College of Regiopo- 
lis has handsome buildings, and the Royal College of Physicians has 11 
professors and good collections. The Penitentiary is 2 M. W., and has 
5-600 convicts ; and the Rockwood Insane Asylum is a national institu¬ 
tion in fine buildings near by. Kingston was founded by De Courcelles 
in 1672, and after the British occupation it was made the capital of 
Upper Canada. Just beyond Kingston begins the Lake of the Thousand 
Islands, which is diversified by over 1,800 islands and islets, affording the 


400 Route 59. 


OTTAWA. 


most picturesque and romantic scenery. The chief summer resort of the 
Thousand Islands is Alexandria Bay , a village of New lork State, 
where there are two first-class hotels (*Thousand Islands House; *Cross- 
mon House). After traversing the narrow channels of the archipelago 
for forty miles, the steamer reaches Brockville, a 

large Canadian village whence lumber and iron are shipped to the U. S. 
Small steamers run from this point through the Thousand Islands ; and a 
steam ferry-boat crosses every half-hour to Morristown, a N. Y. hamlet. 
Below Brockville the open river is entered, and is followed, by Maitland, 
to Prescott (Daniel’s Hotel), a sombre stone-built village near the dilapi¬ 
dated bastions of Fort Wellington. On the opposite shore is the pros¬ 
perous American city of Ogdensburg ( Seymour House ), 

with 12,000 inhabitants and great flour and lumber mills. The 
city is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and Oswegatchie Rivers, and 
is regularly laid out and handsomely built, its streets being so completely 
lined with trees as to have won for it the name of “the Maple City.” 
The St. Jean Baptiste church, the dome of the U. S. Post-Office, and 
the lofty elevator which terminates the long wharves are prominently 
seen from the river. Ogdensburg "was founded as a mission-station, in 
1748, by the Abbe Piquet, the patriarch of the Five Nations, was surren¬ 
dered to the U. S. in 1796, and was captured by Canadian troops in 1813. 

The St. Lawrence & Ottawa R. R. runs 54 M. N. from Prescott, through an un¬ 
interesting region of forests and rugged clearings, and reaches Ottawa ( Russell 
Hotel), the capital of Canada. The Canadian * * Parliament House is situated 
on a lofty bluff over the Ottawa River, and is the finest specimen of Italian Gothic 
architecture in America or the world. The great * Victoria tower in the centre 
of the fagade is imposing in its proportions ; and the polygonal building of the 
Dominion Library is in the rear of the buildings. The halls of the Senate and 
Chamber of Commons are worthy of a visit, and are adorned with stained-glass 
windows and marble columns. In the Senate is a statue of Queen Victoria, and 
near the vice-regal throne are busts of the Prince and Princess of Wales. The 
departmental buildings which flank the Parliament House are stately structures 
in harmonious architecture, and of the same kinds of stone. The Cathedral of 
Notre Dame and the nunneries of the lower town are interesting; also the new 
churches of the middle town (which, like the rest of the city, is still undergoing 
a formative process). The **Cliamliere Falls are just above the city, where 
the broad Ottawa River plunges down over long and ragged ledges. In this 
vicinity are immense lumber-yards, with the connected industries which support 
the French Canadians, who form the majority of the citizens here. S. of the city 
are the pretty Rideau Falls. Steamers depart frequently for Montreal, and for 
the remote forests of the N. 


The steamer passes out from Prescott, and leaves Fort Wellington and 
the historic Windmill Point on the 1. 3 M. below Prescott it passes 

Chimney Island, the Isle Iioyale of the French, who built here Fort 
Levis, with 35 cannon. This work checked Lord Amherst’s army of 
10,000 men, and was only reduced after a bombardment of 5 days’ dura¬ 
tion (1760). Off Point Cardinal the steamer enters the Gallopes Rapids ; 
and beyond Point Iroquois the Rapide de Plat is descended, and the boat 


LONG SAULT RAPIDS. 


Route 60. 401 


passes between Morrisburg and Waddington. 30 M. below Ogdensburg 
is Louisville, whence stages run 7 M. E. to the Massena Springs {Hatfield 
House). On the N. shore, below Gooseneck Island, is Chrysler's Farm, 
where 6,000 Americans, under the incompetent Wilkinson, were defeated 
(Nov. 11, 1813) by an inferior British force, and were obliged to give up 
the advance on Montreal. The Americans lost 339 men, and retreated to 
dreary and fatal winter quarters at Fort Covington. The steamer soon 
reaches Dickinson’s Landing, and enters the Long Sault Rapids, which 
fall 48 ft. in 9 M., where reaches of level water alternate with white and 
billowy inclines, and a long chain of islands divides the river into 2 
channels. At the foot of the rapids is Cornwall (Dominion Hotel), a 
village of 2,500 inhabitants, which was settled by loyalists and Hessians 
after the Revolution. A ferry runs to St. Regis, a large Indian village on 
the S. shore. x 

Below St. Regis both shores are Canadian, and the river expands into 
Lake St. Francis (5^ M. wide and 25 M. long), which is dotted with islets. 
On the N. shore is Lancaster; and at the outlet is the sombre French vil¬ 
lage of Coteau du Lac, at the head of 11 M. of Rapids (83 ft. fall), called 
the Coteau and the Cedar Rapids and the Cascades. At their foot is the 
village of Eeauharnois, where up-bound vessels enter the Beauharnois 
Canal (S. shore ; 11 M. long, with 9 locks). Opposite this point is the 
mouth of the Ottawa River, and the Isle Perrot, where Amherst encamped 
in 1760, after losing 64 boats and 88 men in the Cedar Rapids. Here the 
steamer enters Lake St. Louis (12 x 5 M.); passes St. Clair, Chateaugay, 
and the Nuns’ Island; and opposite Caughnawaga shoots the Lachine 
Rapids (see page 372), beyond which the boat sweeps under the Victoria 
Bridge and reaches Montreal (see page 368). 

60. Quebec to Pictou and Cape Breton. The Gulf of St. 

Lawrence. 

The boats of the Quebec Steamship Co. leave Montreal on alternate 
Mondays, and Quebec on Tuesdays, and touch at Father Point, Gaspe, 
Perctf, Summerside, P. E. I., and Charlottetown, reaching the latter point 
on Saturday. They connect at Percd with smaller steamers which run up 
the Bay of Chaleur. At Pictou connection is made with railways for 
Halifax, St. John, and other parts of the Eastern Provinces. The boats 
no longer visit Chatham, Shediac, Newcastle, etc., but' they may be 
reached bv the Intercolonial Railway. Sec “The Maritime 

Provinces : a Handbook for Travellers.” 



402 Route GO. 


ISLE OF ORLEANS. 


On leaving Quebec the attention is concentrated on tlie beautiful ret¬ 
rospect of the lofty city and its embattled walls. On the r. are the 
heights of Point Levi; and the valley of the St. Charles is soon seen open¬ 
ing on the 1. The Isle of Orleans is next coasted on the N. side, and is 
a fertile district, 20 M. long by 5-6 M. wide, insulated by the N. and S. 
channels of the St. Lawrence, and famous for its lovely rural scenery. It 
was originally named the Isle of Bacchus ; and received its present title 
in honor of the royal family of France. There are five parishes on the 
island, and its chief villages are St. Laurent and St. Jean d’Orleans (1,436 
inhabitants). On the N. bank of the river, beyond the long village of Beau- 
port, with its stately church, the * Montmorenci Falls are seen, whitely 
gleaming against dark cliffs 250 ft. high. The steamer next passes the 
high and picturesque shores of Ange Gardien, Chateau Richer, St. Anne, 
and St. Joachim (see page 384). 

Below the Isle of Orleans the Laurentian Mts. are seen on the 1., ter¬ 
minating on the river in the bold promontory called Cap Tourmente. 
The steamer now enters the broader waters of the Lower St. Lawrence 
(20 M. wide), and passes Grosse Isle, Isle aux Coudres, Murray Bay, 
Cacouna, and Tadousac, at the mouth of the Saguenay River (pages 385 
and 386). 16 M. below Riviere du Loup en bas is Isle Verte, with a town 

of 1,134 inhabitants, containing the public buildings of Temiscouata 
County. From the lighthouse a cannon is lired every half-hour during 
snow-storms and fogs. 40 M. farther down is L'Islet au Massacre (3 x § 
M. in area), whose name is derived from the fact that here, some 2 centu¬ 
ries ago, 200 Micmac Indians were surprised by the hostile Iroquois. The 
Micmacs were sleeping at night in a large cavern near the beach ; and 
the enemy surrounded its entrance with fagots which they set on fire. 
Nearly all of the unfortunate Nova-Scotians were massacred amid the 
flames or were suffocated by the smoke. 

In shore from the islet is the village of Lie, on the Intercolonial Rail¬ 
way; and 9 M. below is Rimouski, with its summer hotels (sea-bathing), 
spacious cathedral, and the public buildings of Rimouski County. The 
hills of Bic and Rimouski are quite picturesque. 

Wednesday morning the steamer reaches Father Point, a small hamlet 
near the mouth of the Rimouski River (famous for its fisheries). At the 
lighthouse on the Point is a marine telegraph-office, and outward-bound 
vessels leave their pilots here. This vicinity is much frequented by 
sportsmen, on account of the multitudes of Canada geese, ducks, and 
brant that are found here. Beyond Father Point the steamer passes the 
maritime hamlets of Metis and Matane , and begins to round the great 
peninsula of Gaspe, a vast wilderness whose shore is dotted at wide 
distances with small fishing-stations. On the N. shore is the bold and 
dangerous Pointe de Monts, with its fog-guns and lofty lighthouse ; and 


BAY OF CHALEURS. 


Route GO. 403 


the highlands of Gaspe are passed on the r. N. E. of the vessel’s 
course, but only visible in clearest weather, is the Island of Anticosti, 
a cold and mountainous land, with vast peat-bogs and marl-beds. Its 
area is 2,600 square M., and its population is 102. Bear-hunting in the 
mts., and the pursuit of seals in the bays, form arduous but profitable 
employments ; and salmon and trout, cod and herring, are found in great 
abundance. Rounding Cape Rosier, with its lofty lighthouse, and passing 
Cape Gaspe, the steamer reaches Gaspe, a rude village of 726 inhabitants, 
situated on the edge of the trackless wilderness, and supported by the 
cod and mackerel fisheries. Back of the town is Fort Ramsay, on a tall 
hill which overlooks the deep, silent bay called the Gaspe Basin. Cartier 
landed at this point July 24, 1554. 

The steamer then passes in sight of the tremendous and fatal cliffs of Cape 
Desespuir , and leaves the remarkable rocks at the mouth of the Bay; and 
reaches Perce, a fishing village of 1,743 inhabitants, situated amid roman¬ 
tic but desolate scenery, and containing the public buildings of Gasp6 
County. Opposite the village is Le Rocker Perce, a remarkable rock 
which rises from the water to the height of 2S8 ft., with a precipitous 
front 1,200 ft. long. It is pierced by a natural tunnel or arch, through 
which small fishing-smacks can sail under the rock to the water on either 
side. On its lofty and inaccessible summit myriads of sea-fowl (gannets, 
cormorants, gulls, etc.) build their nests, and the neighboring fishermen 
claim that the rock is haunted by a spirit (Le Genie cle l'Isle Perce). 
Leaving Perce at 8 A. M., the steamer passes Ronaventure Island (2.V x f 
M. in area), a Catholic settlement facing the surges of the Gulf of St. 
Lawrence, and in winter resembling an iceberg. The trend of the coast 
is followed to the S. W., and at 2 P. M. (Thursday) the pretty hamlet of 
Pasptbiac is reached. The view now opens at the Bay of Chaleur for 
58 M., with rugged mountains to the N., and small lishing-settlements 
near the strand. At the W. end of the Bay is Dalhuude , a port of entry 
with 2,400 inhabitants and several churches, situated on a line harbor at 
the mouth of the Restigouche River (draining 4,000 square M.). The 
chief industry of Dalhousie is in preserving and shipping salmon and 
lobsters. “ The Old Woman ” is a singular column of rock rising from 
the water-level near this place; and on an adjacent hill is a conspicuous 
obelisk, erected over a naval officer’s grave. Steamers ascend the Resti¬ 
gouche 16 M. to the village of Campbellton, the chief station in the N. 
on the Intercolonial Railway, and favored with a large trade in lumber 
and fish. Shippigan Island (20 X 10 M. in area) is seen in the W. Vessels 
ascend Miramichi Bay and River for 16 M. to Chatham, a handsome sea¬ 
port town with 6,000 inhabitants, 4 churches, a cathedral, and a college. 
I'he streets are lighted with gas, and the harbor can accommodate the 


404 Route 60. PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 


largest ships. Immense quantities of lumber and fish are exported thence. 
Steamboats cross to Newcastle (6 M.; 30 min.), an active village of 4,200 
inhabitants, finely situated on the Miramiehi River, and the capital of 
Northumberland County. The railroad cars may be taken at Point ctn 
Chene, running S. W. to St. John, 108 M.; Bangor, 314 M.; and Boston, 
5G0 M. (also S. to Pictou, 181 M.; and Halifax, 190 M.). 


The journey from Point du Chene to Pictou usually occupies 10-13 
hrs., with Prince Edward Island on the 1., and New Brunswick and 
Nova Scotia on the r. Passing between Capes Tormentine and Traverse, 
the course is laid to the S. E., down the Northumberland Straits; and at a 
little after noon on Saturday the steamer reaches Pictou, a place of about 
4,000 inhabitants, situated in a fertile country. Large quantities of coal 
are mined about 12 M. back of Pictou, and are shipped from this port to 
England and (in limited quantities) to the United States. 

Steamers leave Pictou tri-weekly (Mon., Wed., and Fri.), on the arrival 
of the morning train from Halifax, and run to Charlottetown (in 3-4 
hrs.), the capital of Prince Edward Island, a prettily situated town 
with 12,000 inhabitants, 9 churches, 7 weekly papers, 3 banks, St. Dun- 
stan’s, the Prince of Wales, and the Methodist Colleges, a neat Govern¬ 
ment House of Nova Scotia stone, and several broad, shady, and dull 
streets running to a deep and tranquil harbor. The steamer Heather Bell 
runs thence up the Hillsborough River, through pretty scenery, to Mount 
Stewart, a flourishing shipbuilding hamlet 18 M. distant (leaves at 3 P. m., 
and returns in the evening). Steamers leave Pictou Saturdays for George¬ 
town, P. E. I.; and Summerside 

is reached by boat from Shediac or (tri-weekly) from Charlottetown (whence 
also by railroad). 

Steamers leave Pictou every Tuesday and Thursday on the arrival of 
the morning train from Halifax, and run N. E. to Ilaiokesbury or Port 
Hood, maritime villages of the island of Cape Breton. Stages run thence 
to WhyJcokomagh , a rural hamlet picturesquely situated at the foot of the 
Bras d’Or, a sheltered salt-water lake 50 M. long, which is broken by 
promontories into deep and narrow bays. The steafhboat descends the 
Bras d’Or amid beautiful scenery to Baddeck (see Charles Dudley Warner’s 
“ Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing ”), the capital of Victoria County, with 
400 inhabitants, and a considerable trade with Newfoundland. 20 M. be¬ 
yond Baddeck the Neptune reaches the hamlet of Little Bras d’Or ; then 
passes the rich Sydney coal-mines, near the Atlantic. 20 M. beyond the 


ITINERARY. 


405 


mines, the boat reaches Sydney, situated on a noble harbor, and fa¬ 
mous for its coal-shipments (also as being the French naval station for N. 
America). It has 3,000 inhabitants, 6 churches, and 2 weekly papers. 
24 M. S. E. of Sydney, is the former 6eat of French domination in 
America, the port of Louisbourg, where France erected fortifications 
which cost over $6,000,000, and established a prosperous commercial 
city. After several sieges and battles the fortress was demolished by the 
British in 1763; and there now remain a few fishermen, dwelling amid 
ancient ruins which front the Atlantic. 

Railways run from St. John and Halifax to New Glasgow, whence a 
branch-line leads in 74 M. to Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canso. A steam-, 
ferry crosses there to Point Tupper, whence the Cape-Breton Railway runs 
to Sydney and N. Sydney, crossing the Bras d’Or by a steel bridge at the 
Grand Narrows. 


SUI* PLEMENTARY 

NEW-ENGLAND ROUTES. 

61 . Boston to Lexington and Concord. 

By the Arlington Branch of the Boston & Maine Railroad, in 30 to 60 minutes, 

Cliief Stations. — Boston ; Somerville ; Lake St.; Arlington ; Arlington 
Heights ; Lexington ; Bedford ; Concord. 

The train leaves the Boston, Lowell & Nashua station, and passes out 
over the Charles River, with broad views of the cities on either side. It 
then traverses parts of the manufacturing suburb of E. Cambridge and 
the long city of Somerville, which has 40,000 inhabitants, with 12 
churches, a paper, and a valuation of about $30,000,000. It has manufac¬ 
tories of muslin-prints, glass, brass-ware, bricks, and hollow-ware. There 
are several far-viewing hills in the vicinity ; and the buildings of Tufts 
College stand on Walnut Hill, to the N. 

Soon after leaving the main line the train reaches Arlington ( Arling¬ 
ton House), a pleasant hamlet near the picturesque Spy Pond. This town 
has 6,000 inhabitants, with 6 churches, a savings-bank, paper, high- 
school, and library. It contains many market-gardens, where vegetables 
and small fruits are raised for the Boston market. J. T. Trowbridge, the 
author, lives near Spy Pond ; and the old summer-home of Edward 
Everett was near Mystic Pond. Arlington stands on the ancient Indian 
domain of Menotomy , subsequently called W. Cambridge. It sent 295 
soldiers to the Secession War. S. of the village is the old Russell house, 
where the Esscx-County minute-men attacked Lord Percy’s troops in the 
retreat from Lexington. 11 Americans were killed in this house. 



406 Route 61. 


LEXINGTON. 


Arlington Heights (The Hawley) is a mod- 

err^village on the hills N. W. of Spy Pond, having several pretty villas 
and summer-residences. 

The Heights are often visited for the sake of the noble view enjoyed 
therefrom, which includes Boston and its environs, the harbor and its 
islands, the ocean, the adjacent lakes and villages, and a vast area to the 
N. and W., including Mts. Wachusett and Monadnock. 

Beyond the hamlet of E. Lexington the train reaches Lexington (see 
page 28), the chief place in a town of 3,200 inhabitants, with a savings- 
bank, high-school, paper, and 5 churches. The fine forests and pictu¬ 
resque hill-countrv around the village have been much admired. “ Not 
even a church-spire pierces through the green boughs, and yet this is in the 
heart of the most densely populated State of the Union.” The Green is a 
well-shaded park of two acres, on which the fight of 1775 occurred, and at 
one end of it is a modest monument erected by the State in honor of the 
men who fell that day. At the other end of the Green is the Memorial 
Hally which was built in honor of the Lexington soldiers who fell in the 
Civil War. It is a handsome brick building, in which are statues of the 
Minute-Man of 1776, the Volunteer of 1861, and the Revolutionary heroes, 
.John Hancock and Samuel Adams. Beyond the rotunda is the Cary 
Free Library. The streets in the vicinity are shady and pleasant, and 
contain many comely residences and ancient historic estates. Theodore 
Parker was born in this town. 

Station, Bedford (Bedford House), in a farming and dairy town of 896 
inhabitants. The village has two churches, and is on high ground, with 
pleasant streets shaded with immemorial elms. 2 M. N. i9 the ancient 
summer-resort of Bedford Springs (8 10 a week), near medicinal sulphur, 
saline, and iron springs, groves, and a lake. 

The line next sweeps around into Concord (see page 28), which may 
also be reached by the Fitchburg R. R. 

The town 

contains 5,000 inhabitants, with 170 productive farms, 3 churches, a public- 
library, high-school, lyceum, bank, and a valuat'on of about 8 2,500,000. 
On the Common is a plain monument in honor of the 34 soldiers of Concord 
who died in the Secession War. The Public Library is a quaint and 
many-angled modern building near the centre of the village. 

This structure contains a large and well-selected library ; busts of Plato, Emerson, 
Agassiz, Mann, Hawthorne, and Brown: large portraits of Emerson, Washington 
(copied from Stuart’s), and Columbus (copied from Titian’s, by Raphael Mengs); 
manuscript volumes, etc., of Washington, Motley, Lowell (“The Cathedral”), 
Holmes,Thoreau ( ,l Walking”), and Emerson (“ Culture ”); collections of the flora 
and Indian relics of Concord, coins and medals, heliotypes, a Bible of 1599 ; and 
other curiosities. The Concord Alcove contains a marble bust of William Munroe, 
the donor of the building, and is devoted to the books and newspapers written by 
people of this town, beginning in 1646. Among the literary notables who have 
lived in this village are Ralph Waldo Emerson, Henry D. Thoreau,the Hawthornes, 
A. B. Alcott, Louisa M. Alcott, E- R Hoar, Frederick Hudson, Dr. Folsom, William 


CONCORD. 


Route 62. 407 


Ellery Charming, William Whiting, Jane G. Austen, Frank Sanborn, Edward 
Everett, Horace Mann, George Bartlett, Elizabeth Peabody, Margaret Fuller, George 
William Curtis, Ezra Ripley, “ John Phoenix,” and others. In Concord, “it is 
dangerous to turn a corner suddenly for fear of running over some first-class saint, 
philosopher, or sage.” 

A short walk (| M.) from the village-green along the Lexington road 
leads to the tree-surrounded and many-gabled yellow house (1. side of the 
road) formerly occupied bv Nathaniel Hawthorne. The fir-lined path 
towards the river and the ridge to the rear were his favorite walks ; and 
his study was in the top of the tower, where he inscribed Tennyson’s line, 
“There is no joy but Calm.” The house is now owned by Mr. D. Lo- 
throp, the Boston publisher. An avenue of larch-trees leads hence to 
the quaint and picturesque house “Apple Slump,” once occupied by 
the Alcott family, — Amos Bronson Alcott, the philosopher, Louisa May 
Alcott, the author. Nearer the Common, at the 

intersection of the Lexington and Boston highways, is the spacious white 
house of Ralph Waldo Emerson, “on low ground, with limited outlook, 
and on the skirt of the village.” Walden Pond is about 1 M. S. E. of 
Concord, by Walden St. Its shores were the scene of Thoreau’s lonely 
studies, and are now used as a picnic-ground. 

The battle-ground is on the other side of the village, a few minutes’ walk 
from the Common, near the Concord River. On one side of the bridge 
are the battle monuments and the graves of the British soldiers ; and on 
the other shore is a noble bronze * statue representing the Minute-Man of 
1776 (made by Daniel M. French, and cast at Chicopee). Near this point, 
in the fields, is an ancient gambrel-roofed house, from whose windows 
l’arson Emerson watched the battle. Hero Ralph Waldo Emerson was 
born and lived for years ; and at a later day Nathaniel Hawthorne dwelt 
and wrote in this “ Old Manse.” The lowly graves of Hawthorne and 
Thoreau are in “ Sleepy TTollow,” the village cemetery. Get Bartlett's 
capital “Concord Guide Book ” (illustrated). 


62. Boston to Swampscott and Marblehead. 

By the Swampscott Branch R. R Boston to Swampscott, 40 

minutes. Fare to Swampscott, 35 c.; to Marblehead, 50 c 

Station*. - Boston to Somerville, 2 M.; Everett, 3; Chelsea, 5; Revere, 6; W. 
Lvnn, 10; Lynn, 11; Swampscott, 13; Phillips Beach; Beach Bluff; Clifton; Dev- 
ereux ; Marblehead, 17. 

Boston to Swampscott station, see pages 248-251. Barges and car¬ 
riages from hotels meet the trains at the station on the main line. I he 
* Lincoln House (170 guests) is beautifully situated on Fishing Point, about 
li M. from the station ; the * Ocean is near the short beach on the E.; the 
Oakland is on a high hill beyond, among pleasant groves and nearly 

hidden from the closely adjacent sea; and the Little Anawan is near the 
shore, towards Ocean Avenue (see also page 251). The two first-named 
charge $ 15-25 a week; the others are more moderate. Nearer the 


408 Route 62. 


SWAMPSCOTT. 


station are the large summer boarding-houses of Mrs. Page, Mrs. Clark, 
and Messrs. Blaney and others. The feature of summer- 

cottages prevails here to a great extent, and some of the villas are costly 
and beautiful. The topography of Swampscott is remarkably varied and 
interesting, since it is a hilly and rocky town, fronting to the S and E. on 
the ocean, and giving from its In'gh promontories broad marine views, in¬ 
cluding also Egg Rock, Nahant, the Scituate bluffs, and the Blue Hills of 
Milton. There are three beaches, — Blaney’s and Whale, short strips 
near the village, and Phillips Beach, which faces to the E., and is 1 M. 
long, with Phillips Pond inside and the rocky heights of Phillips Point on 
the S., covered with villas. The town has 2,128 inhabitants, with 4 
churches, and a fleet of about 20 vessels, employed in the fisheries. Most 
of the adjacent towns are supplied with fish from this point. 

The Phillips-Bench station is convenient to the great beach, though well 
inland. The line is now on a high grade, and gives fine views of the mas¬ 
sive blue sea, over rich green fields and the gardens of villas. On the 1. 
are tree-crested hills. Beach-Blitf station is near the Addison-Child 
cottages; and about £ M. distant, on a high bluff over the sea, are the 
* Hotel Preston and The Upland, two first-cla6s summer-hotels ($ 12 - 20 
a week). The view from this headland was commended by Lieut. 
Maury as the noblest on the Eastern coast. The wlrte ledges of Ram 
Island and Tinker’s Island are plainly seen, with Phillips Point on the r. 
and Marblehead Neck on the 1. Pleasant sea-views are gained as the train 
passes on to Clifton , near which is the Clifton House. 

It is near the sea; 

and its rates are lower than those of the Preston. Devereux station is 
near the large summer boarding-house called the Devereux Mansion, and 
the shore is lined with the dainty villas of city merchants and the snug 
cabins of up-countrv farmers. As the train advances the spires of Mar¬ 
blehead appear in front, and the terminal station is soon reached. 

Marblehead (two small inns) now has 7,677 inhabitants (see page 255), 
8 churches, a paper, a high-school, 2 banks, and a valuation of over 
$4,000,000. It has about 25 vessels, with a snug little harbor sheltered by 
Marblehead Great Neck. In May, 1876, a handsome granite monument 
(near the station) was dedicated to the memory of Capt. Mugford, of this 
port, who, in 1776, captured a British ship off Boston Harbor, laden with 
1,500 barrels of powder, 1,000 carbines, and other military stores. He 
sent her in to Washington’s ill-provided army, and was killed the same 
day, while repelling a British attack on his vessel. From the old ruined 
fort on a headland S. of the town a pleasant view is afforded, including 
the harbor, the Neck, Lowell and Baker’s Islands, the S. shore of Cape 
Ann, the graceful curve of Marblehead Beach, and the Swampscott shore. 
Fort Sewall is on a point to the N. E., over Little Harbor. The hilly 
character of the streets and the evident antiquity of the houses give an in- 


WINTHROP. 


Route 03. 409 


feresting appearance to the town On the Common is the brick-and- 
brownstone building of Abbott Hall , with a great library and a tower 
which may be seen for many miles. 

Marblehead Neck is a hilly peninsula, M. iong, between the harbor 
and the ocean, and has numerous summer-villas and the headquarters of 
the Eastern Yacht Club. It is reached over the low isthmus of Marble¬ 
head Beach (| M. long). At its N. end is the lighthouse, M. from 
Lowell Island; and Tinker’s Island lifts its white rocks on the S. Just 
S. of Nashua Village are the remains of an ancient Indian cemetery. 
The NanejJashemet, a magnificent new summer-hotel, overlooks the sea 
and Tinker’s Island. A steamboat plies between Marblehead and the 
Neck; and carriages run from Devereux station. 

63. Boston to Revere Beach and Lynn. 

The narrow-gauge railroad on this route has met with a great measure of 
success, and is convenient for excursions to the adjacent sea-shore. It has light 
grades and long curves; and is equipped with Fairlee locomotives and neat little 
cars, some of which are open at the sides. Boston to Lynn, 34 minutes. 

Stations. — Boston ; E. Boston; Wood Island; Harbor View ; Winthrop Junc¬ 
tion ; Beachmont; Crescent Beach ; Oak Island ; Point of Pines; W. Ly nu ; 

Lynn. 

Horse-cars run from Tremont and Washington Sts. to the station on 
Atlantic Ave., Boston, whence a ferry-boat crosses to the Island Ward of 
E. Boston, where much of the heavier shipping of the port is moored. On 
the r., during this transit, are S. Boston, Fort Independence, and Fort 
Winthrop (on the nearest high green island). Passing the great elevators 
in E. Boston, the boat enters the slip, and passengers take the waiting train, 
which soon runs through a tunnel 474 ft. long, after which it traverses 
the long sea-wall, and crosses the basin on a pile-bridge, 2,005 ft. long. 
E. Boston is seen on the 1., with its many spires, and the train runs along 
Wood Island, over the Hats, and reaches Breed’s Island by a pile-bridge. 
From Winthrop Junction a branch line diverges to Ocean Spray ( The 
Shirley ; Ocean Spray ; etc.), a pretty beach-colonv ; Great Head ( Great 
Head House ;; and Point Shirley, for forty years the seat of Taft’s Hotel, 
famous for rich game dinners (now closed). All these stations are in the 
picturesque peninsular town of Winthrop, between Boston Harbor and the 
sea, with its shores and bold headlands lined with summer-cottages. It is 
within easy drive of Boston, and has the ancient Deane-Winthrop house 
and other curiosities. 

Beyond Beachmont the line reaches the crest of the beach, which is fol¬ 
lowed for several miles. This beach is of sand, sloping very gradually, free 
from undertow, and with a light surf, being partly embayed b} r Nahant 
and Winthrop. It is much visited by the working-people of Boston, especially 


4 10 Route G£. 


REVERE BEACH. 


on Sundays, and all the hotels (save one) are devoted entirely to transient 
business and the furnishing of meals. The level strand also makes an 
admirable drive-wav, at low tide, and is much used for that purpose. The 
train stops first at Crescent Beach, near a large summer-hotel. This 
handsome edifice opens about July 1, and will take permanent boarders. 
It is adorned with four towers, and is built around the four sides of a 
hollow square. 

The next stopping-place is at the Atlantic and Robinson-Crusoe Houses, 
where the horse-cars from Chelsea reach the shore. These hotels and the 
Revere House (farther up the strand) furnish fish dinners, chowders, and 
other refreshments, to people visiting the beach. As the train advances, 
fine views are given over the sea, including Nahant and the bluff Winthrop 
Head; while to the 1., across the marshes on which the Eastern R. R. runs, 
is the loft}’’ Soldiers’ Home (on Chelsea Highlands), which overlooks a 
vast expanse of sea. 

Where Bine Point trends to the N. E. the line leaves the beach, and soon 
stops near the Point of Pines, where there is an immense and ornate 
summer-hotel, looking out on Lynn outer harbor. The line now crosses 
the Saugus River, near its mouth, on a bridge 1,344 ft. long, runs through 
the skirt of Lynn, and soon reaches the terminal station on the main street 
of the citv. 

Lynn, see page 250. 

64. Boston to Acton and Nashua. 

By the Fitchburg It It and the Nashua, Acton &. Boston It. R , in 1 $ -2 hrs. 
Fare, $ 1.35. 

Stations. — Boston to Concord Junction, 22 M.; Acton, 24: N. Acton, 264; 
E. Littleton, 30.1; Westford, 32; Gi-aniteville, 33; E. Groton, 37; Dunstable, 40; 
Nashua (Main Street), 45$ ; Northern Depot, 46|. 

The train leaves the Fitchburg station in Boston ur d runs for 22 M. over 
Route 25 (pages 175-176). At Concord Junction (W. Concord) the 
Nashua, Acton, & Boston It. R. diverges to the N. W. W. Concord has 
small factories for making flannel and pails. Acton (Monument House , 
a comfortable old hotel, fronting on the Common) is the chief village in a 
rural town of 2,000 inhabitants, and is pleasantly situated on high ground. 
The streets and Common are quiet and well-shaded, and there is a Con¬ 
gregational church. A tall shaft of granite masonry has been erected on 
the Common, in memory of the captain of the Acton minute-men, who was 
killed at the Concord fight. S. Acton (American House) is a busy and 
prosperous manufacturing village of 500 inhabitants, 2 M. S. W. on the 
Fitchburg R. R. 

N. Acton is near the pretty Nagog Pond, and the line thence ascends 
the Nashoba valley by the Nashoba Hill (on the 1.) to E. Littleton , in a 
quiet old farming and dairy town of 950 inhabitants, with 3 churches and 


WESTFORD. 


Route 65. 411 


several picturesque ponds, abounding in perch and pickerel. It occupies 
the site of the Indian village of Nashoba, avhere a Christian church was 
formed by the Apostle Eliot, Ahatawana being the local chieftain. “The 
shooting of Nashoba Hill” is a singular rumbling sound w r hich often 
issues from that eminence. 

Forge Village has a large nail-factory. 

Westford Centre is H-2 M. E., arid is a handsome village with a 
library, academy, and 2 churches, on a high ridge which commands views 
of Mts. Wachusett and Monadnock, the White Mts., and a vast area of 
the hill-towns. The town has 2,250 inhabitants, and sent 135 soldiers into 
the Secession War. It was the birthplace of Bishop T. C. Brownell and 
Willard Hall. The train now crosses the Stonv-Brook R. R., and at 
Graniteville passes large quarries of the so-called Chelmsford granite. 
Traversing the E. part of Groton. Bear Hill and Horse Hill are seen, with 
the thinly settled region around them. Dunstable is at the centre of an 
ancient and decadent firming town of 452 inhabitants, and has 2 small 
churches and 90 firms. It was settled in 1673, and was the centre of sev¬ 
eral bold campaigns against the heathen. 

Soon after passing Flat-Rock Hill (on the 1.) the train enters the State 
of New Hampshire, and reaches Nashua (see page 191). 


65. Boston and Worcester to Mt. Wachusett and Mt. 

Monadnock. 

By the Worcester Branch of the Fitchburg Railroad, which was constructed in 
1869-74. Boston to lilt. Wachusett, 60 M. ; to Mt. Monadnock, 95 M. 

Stations. — Worcester to Lincoln Square, 1 M. ; Barber’s Crossing, 3: N. 
Worcester, 4J ; Chaffin’s, 6; Holden, 8: Jefferson Is, 9£ ; North Woods, 11 ; Brooks, 
13; Princeton, 16; Ilubbardston, 20; S. Gardner; Gardner, 20; Ileywood’s, 27 ; 
Winchendon, 36; Rindge, 42 ; Jaffrey, 46; Peterborough, 53. 

After passing out from the streets of Worcester, and beyond Lincoln 
Square, the Worcester & Nashua R. R. is seen diverging to the r., and the 
train then runs along the shore of North Rond, near the modern villas and 
country-seats of N. Worcester. Winter Hill appears on the 1., over the 
pond, and glimpses are gained of the more distant Asnebumskit Hill 
(1,407 ft. high). Beyond the hamlet of Chaffinville the train reaches 
Holden Centre (Eagleville Hotel), the chief place in a hilly farming and 
manufacturing town of 2,180 inhabitants, with 7 villages. 2 M. N. of 
Holden Centre is the crossing of the Mass. Central R. R. 

Paxton (Summit House) is a rural town S. W. of Holden, among picturesque 
highlands, with a soldiers’ monument (to 21 dead) Trains leave Jetfersou’s on 
the arrival of the late afternoon train, for Rutland (4 M. N. W.), Coldbrook Springs, 
and Barre. Rutland ( Muttchopauge House) is in a rich farming and dairy town of 
1,000 inhabitants, with 3 villages, and several ponds. This was the Indian domain 
of Nai/ung. and was often attacked by the savages. Gen. Burgoyne's captive Brit¬ 
ish army was quartered here, for some time, on Barrack Hill. Coldbrook 
Springs is a summer-frequented spa; and Barre is on the Ware-River R R. 


412 Route 65. 


MOUNT WACHUSETT. 


The train runs N. from Holden by several small stations, to Princeton , 
near which is Whittaker’s summer-hotel, in a high and far-viewing loca¬ 
tion. Stages run from the trains 2 M. E. to Princeton Centre (* Wachu- 
sett House , spacious and comfortable, with billiards, bowling, livery-stable, 
etc.; Prospect House; and several boarding-houses). This is a pleas¬ 
ant village on a high plateau, surrounded by a lake-strewn highland 
region through which good roads pass in every direction. The town was 
founded about the middle of the last century; was named in honor of the 
Kev. Thomas Prince, the historian; sent 80 soldiers to the Civil War; and 
-was the birthplace of Leonard Woods, D. D., the theologian. 2| M. N. 
is the Mountain House (Mt. Wachusett Post-office), on the S. E. slope of Mt. 
Wachusett, 1,200 ft. above the sea. It has a large farm, livery-stable, 
bowling-alley, etc.; and stages run to Princeton station twice daily. The 
rates are $ 10 -15 a week. 


Mount Wachusett 

is 2,018 ft. high, and is prominently seen from vessels off the Mass, coast. 
It is ascended from Bolton’s, on the N ; from the Pine-Hill House, on the 
E.; and from the Mountain House. The latter is the favorite path, and 
is 1 M. long, following the line of the old Coast-Survey road, £ M. over 
pastures, and then through a forest, with several sharp curves. On the 
top is the Summit House , where visitors can pass the night or get 

refreshments. On its roof is an observatory, provided with a telescope 
and field-glasses. Little Wachusett flanks the mountain on the S. A 
capital carriage-road leads to the summit of Wachusett. 

** The View. It is claimed that 300 villages and parts of 6 States are seen from 
this summit. The section towards the coast is best seen in the latter part of the 
afternoon, and in the clear weather of June or October. Mt. Monadnock is 
N. N. W , well-defined and vast, over Westminster and Meeting-House Lake. 
Sunapee Mt. is beyond Monadnock, on its r , and the round Watatic Mt. is 
nearer, with Temple Mt. and Pack Monadnock beyond Far away over these is 
the blue spire of Mt. Kearsarge, with the disk of Moosilauke back of it, 120 M. N. 
The twin Uncanoonucs are on the r. of Pack Monadnock, over which Mt. Washing¬ 
ton and the White Mts may be seen on clear days, 140 M. distant, with Mt. Bel¬ 
knap to the r. and nearer Fitchburg and Lunenburg are nearly N E., with the 
various hamlets of Groton and Townsend ; and farther to the r. are Leominster, 
Harvard, and the Actons. Then come E. Princeton, the Lancaster villages, Con¬ 
cord, Prospect Hill at Waltham (S. of E ), S. Boston, and the Charlestown Navy- 
Yard The Blue Hills of Milton are to the r., and a wide reach of the ocean opens 
beyond, often dotted with shining sails. Next are seen the white villages of Clinton 
and Berlin, Marlboro, Southboro, and Ashland, the Bovlstons, high-placed Ilopkin- 
ton, Shrewsbury, and Grafton, with many a lakelet glistenimr between. Worcester 
is plainly discerned, E. of S., with the forest-hamlet of Holden to the r., over 
Princeton. Quinnipoxet Lake and Eagleville are 5 M. S., with the highland villages 
of Connecticut far beyond. Rutland, Paxton, Oakham and N. Brookfield next 
appear: and over white Barre is the crest of Mt. Tom. Be\ond the near Moose- 
horn Lake are Dana, Prescott, and Hubbardston ; and over Wendell is lofty Grey- 
lock (80 M distant), beyond the Hoosac range. Then come Templeton and other 
villages to the N W., with Mt. Stratton and others of the Green Mts. far beyond. 

This view is minutely analyzed and described (13 pages) in “ Bullard’s Guide to 
Mt. Wachusett,” which every visitor should get. 

The Summit House accommodates 60 guests, at $10-15 a week. The 
Wachusett House charges $10-18; the Prospect, $10-15; the Mt.-Pleasant 
and Lyndon, $8 12; the Forest, $10. 


MOUNT MONADNOCK. 


Route 65. 413 


Beyond Princeton the train runs N. W., with views of Wachusett on the 
r., soon passing the picnic-station near Mooseborn Lake. Hubbardston 
(Lake View House; and several summer boarding-houses) is \ M. S. W. of its 
station, and is in a prosperous and picturesque farming town of 1,440 
inhabitants, with 3 churches and a library. At Gardner ( Windsor) 
the Hoosac-Tunnel Line is crossed (see Route 25). The town of Gard¬ 
ner has 9,000 inhabitants, with 4 churches, a paper, a bank, valuable 
forests, and rich farms. It makes more chairs than any other place in 
the world, employing 2,000 workmen in this industry. 

The line next runs along the E. shore of the beautiful Crystal Lake, 
and runs N. N. W. through a thinly settled country, with views of Mt. 
Watatic on the r. At Winchendon ( American House) it meets the 
Cheshire R. R. and the Ware-River R. R. This town has 5,000 inhabit¬ 
ants, with a paper, library, bank, 6 churches, and manufactories of pails, 
tubs, chairs, shoddy, and cotton goods. It contains several lakes, and 
Miller’s River gives a valuable water-power. 

The line now enters the State of New Hampshire, and crosses the lake- 
strewn town of Rindge , which has 1,000 inhabitants (less than it had in 
1790). Rindge village (Rindge House) is l£ M. S. E. of W. Rindge station, 
and manufactures wooden-ware. E. Jaffrey {Granite-State Hotel; and 
summer boarding-houses) is a pleasant village, with manufactories of 
cotton, knives, wooden-ware, and 2 banks and 3 churches. Over 800 
summer-tourists visit this town yearly. Semi-daily stages run 2 M. N. W. 
to Jaffrey Centre (Cutler’s Hotel; Central House). 

Mount Monadnock, 

or the Grand Monadnock, is visited from E. Jaffrey, whence the Mountain 
House is 5 M. distant. The path thence to the summit is about 1 M. 
long, leading through shady forests and then out on the rocky crest. The 
peak is 3,186 ft. high, and commands a noble * view. The White Mis. 
are seen in the N. N. E., beyond the great Merrimac Valley, with Mt. 
Washington highly pre-eminent. Farther to the r., to the 1. of Crotched 
Mt., is Mt. Belknap, near Lake Winnepesaukee ; Joe-English Hill and the 
Uneanoonucs are E. N. E.; and on the E. are the New-Ipswich Mts. with 
the Temple range and Pack Monadnock. Watatic is S E., and Wachusett 
is S. S. E. The view then sweeps over the hill-country of Massachusetts, 
by many lakes and villages, and falls on Pocomtuck Mt., in the S. W. It 
is also claimed that Greylock and Hoosac Mt. are seen, in the W. S. W. 
To the W and N. W. are many of the Green Mts. of Vermont, in broken 
and picturesque outlines: and towards the N. are Lovewell’s Mt., Suna- 
pee Mt., Kearsarge, and Moosilauke. There are many lakes and hamlets 
visible in this broad circuit, giving a rare diversity and beauty to the 
landscape (see page 179). The Mountain House charges $8 to $10 a week. 

Peterborough ( Tucker's Hotel; and summer boarding-houses) is a 


414 Route 66. 


PETERBOROUGH 


prosperous manufacturing village, at the confluence of the Contoocook 
and Nubanusit Rivers, with 2,400 inhabitants, 2 banks, a paper, a library 
of 4,000 volumes, and 5 churches. The manufactures are of cotton, trusses, 
piano-stools, thermometers, paper, lumber, etc. The streets are pleas¬ 
antly shaded with trees; and the village has a large country-trade. Many 
summer-visitors sojourn here, attracted by the pleasant scenery of the 
Pack Monadnock range, on the E. 

The Peterboro and Hillsboro 11. II. runs N. 18 M. across Antrim (Carter 
House; several summer boarding-houses) and Bennington. Hillsborough, see 
page 196. 

The Manchester and Keene R. It. intersects this route at Hancock Junction , 
and is famous for its magnificent hill-scenery. It was opened in 1880, from Green¬ 
field to Keene, 30 M. 

Daily stages from Peterboro to Dublin (summer boarding-houses of T. Morse, 
H. II. Lefflngwell, J. Morse, G. A. Gowing, J. II. Mason, S. Adams, Jr.), 1,500 ft. 
above the sea, with 300 summer-visitors, near the lovely Monadnock Lake and moun¬ 
tain, with grand Scottish scenery. The Appleton House is the chief inn. Stages 
run daily to Harrisville, M. N., on the railroad from Nashua to Keeue. Peter- 
boro is 7 M. from Dublin. 

66. Worcester to Portland. 

By the Worcester, Nashua and Portland, and Portland and Rochester Railroads. 
Trains connect through. A considerable amount of travel to the White Mts. also 
passes over this route. Worcester to Rochester, 95 M., fare, $3.10. Rochester 
to Portland, 52 M., fare, $1 65. 

Stations. —Worcester to W. Boylston, 9 M. ; Oakdale, 10; Sterling Junc¬ 
tion, 12; Clinton, 17 ; S. Umcaster, 18; Lancaster, 19; Still River, 23; Harvard, 
25 ; Ayer Junction, 28 : Groton, 31; Peppered, 36; Hollis, 39; Nashua, 46 ; Hud¬ 
son, 49; W. Windham, 53 ; Windham, 57 ; Hampstead, 68 : Sandown,65; Fremont, 
70 ; Epping, 74 ; Lee, 80 ; Barrington, 88 ; Gonic, 93 ; Rochester, 95 Portland If 
Rochester R. It. E. Rochester, 98; E. Lebanon, 104; Springvale, 111; Alfred, 
115; S. Waterboro, 119 : Centre Waterboro, 122£ ; Hollis Centre, 126$ ; Saco River, 
129 ; Buxton Centre, 132 : Gorham, 137 ; Saccarappa, 141; Cumberland Mills, 142; 
Westbrook, 144£ ; Woodford’s Corner, 145^ ; Portland, 147. 

For a description of the line between Norwich, Worcester, and Nashua, 
see pages 104-106. For the route between Rochester and Portland, see 
page 213. 

The train crosses the Merrimac River at Nashua, and runs N. W. across 
Hudson, a large farming town with 1,066 inhabitants and 3 churches. It 
then crosses the level lands of Windham , an ancient Presbyterian town 
which was originally settled by the Scotch-Irish from Londonderry. The 
hamlet of W. Windham is ^ M. S. E. of its station; and venerable old Lon¬ 
donderry is a little way to the N. At Windham the present route meets the 
Manchester & Lawrence R. R. (see page 279). Crossing Derrv, the train 
reaches Hampstead , a thinly-settled town devoted to farming, lumbering, 
and shoe-making. It was settled in 1728. Stages run 3 M. S. E. by W. 
Hampstead to Hampstead, and thence 6 M. by Atkinson to Atkinson 
Depot, on the Boston & Maine R. R. Picturesque Chester is a few miles 
N. W. 

Station, Sandoum, in a thinly-settled and uninteresting town, whence 
daily stages run to Danville and E. Hampstead. Next comes the level 


NASHUA TO GREENFIELD. 


Route 67. 415 


town of Fremont (827 inhabitants), on the Squamscot River. Tri-weeklv 
stages run 51 M. E. to Brentwood . a decadent rural town, and thence 5£ 
M. E. to Exeter. At Epping the train crosses the Portsmouth R. R., and then 
follows the Lamprey River through N. Epping into Lee (776 inhabitants). 
The hamlet of Wadleigh’s Falls, It M. S. E. of the station, was founded in 
1657; and near Wheelwright’s Pond, in the N. part of the town, two com¬ 
panies of rangers under Capts. Floyd and Wiswell were disastrously do- 
tea ted by the Indians, in 1690. Stages run 4 M. N. W. to Nottingham 
Square (Rockingham House), a pleasant old village on a high and pleasant- 
viewing hill. A short distance S. W. is the picturesque and island-studded 
Pawtuekawav Pond, covering square miles. The triple-headed Paw- 
tuckaway Mt. is also in this town ; and Saddleback Mt. is to the W. in 
North wood. 

The train runs rapidly across the pond-strewn town of Barrington to 
Conic, a pleasant village devoted to the manufacture of woollen cloths. 
The next station is Rochester (see page 213). 

67. Nashua to Greenfield and Keene. 

By the Wilton Branch R. R.. which has recently been prolonged 11M., by Lynde- 
borough to Greenfield and Keene. 

Stations. — Nashua to S. Merrimac, 7 M. : Amherst, 11 ; Milford, 15 ; Wilton, 
18 ; Lyudeborough, 21 ; Greenfield, 26. 

Nashua to Wilton, see page 192. Wilton has about 1,200 inhabitants, 
a savings-bank, library, 3 churches, and several summer boarding-houses. 
It manufactures carpet-yarn, carpets, furniture, boots, and leather. Daily 
stages run 7 M. up the Souhegan Valiev to Greenville (Columbian House; 
see also page 176), a pleasant village with cotton and furniture manufacto¬ 
ries. Semi-daily stages pass thence 3 M. S. W. to New Ipswich ( Clark's 
Hotel; Appleton House), a quiet summer-resort among high hills, con¬ 
taining also the ancient Appleton Academy, a library, savings-bank, 3 
churches, and small factories. It was settled in 1749, under the name of 
Jpswich-Canada ; and lost 26 men in the Civil War. Temple ( Central 
House) is 7 AI. from Wilton, and contains the rugged and far-viewing 
Temple Mts. (stages semi-daily from Greenville, 4 AI.). 

Beyond Wilton the train reaches S. Lyndeborough, where glassware is 
made from quartz rock. To the N. is Lyndeborough, a summer-haunt for 
city-people, near Centre Mt. Station, Greenfield ( Dunklee House), a 
mountain-guarded and pond-strewn summer-resort town, dating from 1771. 
Semi-dailv stages run 4J M. N. E. to Francestown (Francestown Hotel), 
a pleasant tree-shaded Congregational village, named after Frances, the 
wife of Gov. Wentworth. Soapstone-quarries and summer-boarders are 
found here. At Hancock Junction our route crosses the railway from 
Concord and Hillsborough to Peterborough and Winehendon. Hancock 
{Hancock Hotel) is a rugged farming town, strewn with crystalline ponds. 


416 Route 68. MANCHESTER TO NORTH WEARE. 

Stages run thence to S. Stoddard , 6j M.; Stoddard (Central House), in a 
hilly farming region, 10$ M.; and Marlow (Forest House), a rural hamlet 
on the Ashuelot River. Harrisville, on a plateau 1,300 ft. high, has sev¬ 
eral profitable woollen-mills, and an inexhaustible water-power from high 
ponds. Marlborough (Converse House) has several summer boarding¬ 
houses among the hills, and a granite-quarry. The next station is Keene 
(see page 179). 


68. Manchester to North Weare. 

By the Manchester & N. Weare R. R., in 1 hr. Fare, 60 c. 

stations. —Manchester to Bedford, 1 M. ; Goffstown Centre, 6 ; GofTstown,9; 
Parker’s, 10 ; Oil Mills, 11; Raymond’s, 15 ; E. Weare, 16 ; N. Weare, 19. 

The train crosses the Merrimac River, giving a fine view of the city of 
Manchester and its great factories. Bedford was one of the towns granted 
to and settled by the veterans of the Narragansett wars, and now supplies 
Manchester with milk and vegetables. Frequent views of the singular 
Uncanoonuc Mts. are given as the train advances. Goffstown ( New - 
Hampshire Central Hotel) is a wealthy fanning town of 2,000 inhabitants, 
in whose S. W. part are the remarkable hills called the Uncanoonucs, 
from -whose crests the White Mts. are visible, with a wide sweep of the 
Merrimac Valley. 

Daily stages run 5 M. S. W. from Parker’s station to New Boston 
(Columbian Hotel), a beautiful hamlet in a rural town of 1,241 inhabitants. 
Near the village is the bold Joe-English Hill, 572 ft. high, one of whose 
sides is formed by a rocky cliff. The summer-frequented towns of Mt. 
Vernon and Lvndeborough are on the S. Stages also run on Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday to Francestown. From Oil Mills stages run to 
S. Weare (Dearborn House). The terminus is at 

N. Weare ( Collins House). Weare has 1,800 inhabitants, with 3 villages, 
5 churches, and a public library. It has many valuable farms, producing 
hay, wheat, and apples; and manufactories of woollen goods, boots and 
shoes, etc. The scenery is pleasant, and attracts about 200 summer-visitors 
annually. Daily stages run to Ilenniker. A lurge summer-business 
is done along this line, and the Scribner-Hill and Shirley-Ilill Houses, near 
Goffstown, are favorite resorts. Shirley Hill overlooks Manchester and 
the valley. The DeriVs Pulpit is a very interesting locality in Bedford. 
The Yacum-Spring Hotel ($7-10 a week) is at Goffstown Centre, with 
mineral spring for dyspepsia and liver and kidney troubles), boating, 
fishing, and drives through picturesque scenery. 


PITTSFIELD, N. II. 


Route 70. 417 


69. The Suncook Valley. 

By the Suncook-Valley R. R., in H hr. 

Stationg.—Hooksett to Suncook, 21 M.: Allenstown, 7; Short Falls, 101; 
Epsom, 12£ ; Chichester, 15 ; Webster’s Mills, 17 ; Pittsfield, 19£. 

The train leaves the main line of the Manchester & Concord R. R. at 
Hooksett and crosses the Merrimac River. Suncook {Opera House) 
is a prosperous manufacturing village near the confluence of 
the Suncook and Merrimac Rivers, with cotton-mills employing 1,100 
hands, and using a capital of $ 1,700,000. It has 2 churches, a savings- 
bank, and a high-school. To the N. is Pem¬ 

broke ', a high-placed and decadent hamlet, with a wide street parallel with 
the river. Allenstown is a dull rural town of 1,300 inhabitants, beyond 
which the course of the Suncook River is followed through an uneven 
grazing country. Epsom ( Suncook- Valley House) is a farming town of 900 
inhabitants, near Nottingham Mt.; and Chichester (800 inhabitants) is 
also devoted to farming. Pittsfield ( Washington House) has about 2,600 
inhabitants, a bank, paper, academy, library, and 4 churches. It manu¬ 
factures boots and shoes, cotton cloth, and boards, and is prolific in wheat 
and milk. To the S. E. is the long ridge of Catamount Mt. (1.450 ft. 
high), whence the ocean may be seen, together with the great mountains 
on the N. 

The end of the railway is at Centre Barn stead {ShackforJ House), in a rich 
farming town. Stages leave thrice weekly for Strafford Blue Hills and Rochester, 
Dexter, and Farmington. 

Daily stages run 6 M. E. from Epsom to Nortliwood (Harvey House), a pic¬ 
turesque town, which is much visited by summer-tourists. It contains numerous 
ponds, and on the S. is the dark Saddleback Mt. The main road crosses Clark's 
Hill, whence the ocean is visible, and. Brown's Ilill is another favorite view-point. 
The village is on high ground, and has 3 churches, a library, academy, and semi¬ 
nary. In 1873 Northwood celebrated the centennial of her foundation. 

?0. The Contoocook Valley. 

By the Concord & Claremont II. R. to Hillsborough Bi'idge. 

Concord to Contoocook, see page 196. At this point the valley lino 
diverges to the S. W., and soon reaches W. Hopkinton. To the E. is the 
beautiful village of Hopkinton , in a rich farming town of 1,819 inhabit¬ 
ants, prolific in corn, oats, potatoes, and dairy products. It was settled in 
1735, and came near being the capital of the State. Concord is 7i M. K.; 
and Contoocook is 3 M. N. W., with 3 churches, an academy, a prosper¬ 
ous antiquarian society, and several factories. Putney Hill is 1 M. W. 
of Hopkinton village, and is crowned by an ancient cemetery and the 
luins of the Putney Fort. It is 500 ft. above the town, and gives a view 
is* A A 


418 Route 72. HILLSBOROUGH BRIDGE. 


of Mts. Sunapee. Monadnoek, Kearsarge, Whiteface, Chocorua, Belknap, 
etc. The Mt.-Putn< y House ($7 - 12 a week) is in lovely old Hopkinlon, 

3 M. from Contoocook station, and 7^ M. from Concord (daily stage at m.d- 
afternoon.) Railroad, see page 19G. 

Station, Henniker ( Noyes House), a neat and pleasant village, with 
shad} 7 streets, 3 churches, an academy, and a library. The fair rural 
scenery in the vicinity makes this a quiet summer-resort. Crany Hill is 
to the S., and Long Pond is 1 M. from the village. Henniker has many 
profitable farms and several factories. Hillsborough Bridge ( Valley 
House) is a prosperous fact* rv-village, with 2 churches, a paper, and a 
oank, and is surrounded by pleasant hill-scenery. Stages hence to E. 
Washington, 31 M.; Hillsborough; and Washington. The railroad runs 
S. to Antrim, Bennington, and Peterborough, connecting at Hancock 
Junction for Keene and Nashua. 

At Hillsborough Bridge is the mansion of Gov. Pierce, where Franklin Pierce was 
horn in 1804. lie practised law in Concord for some years, was U. S Senator, 
1837-42, and Brig -Gen. in the Mexican War. At the Democratic Convention of 
1852 he was nominated (on the 40th ballot) for the Presidency, and defeated Gen. 
Scott, the Whig candidate, by 254 electoral votes out of 296. During his adminis¬ 
tration Arizona was annexed, Kansas and Nebraska were opened to 8 avery, and the 
Ostend Manifesto (to Spain) was issued. Mr. Pierce favored the proslavery party, 
and sympathized with the Secessionists in the war of 1861 -5- 

71. Portsmouth to Dover. 

By the Portsmouth & Dover Branch of the Eastern R. R., which was built 
betwen 1872 and 1874, at a cost of $700,000. The line is singular on account of 
its numerous pile-bridges, on and near the Piscataqua River, one of which is 1,906 
ft. long. 

In leaving Portsmouth the train runs through Newington, a small farm¬ 
ing town of 414 inhabitants, with good so 1 near the surrounding waters. 
This town was formerly known as Bloody Point, in memory of a dis¬ 
astrous attack made upon it (in 1690) by Hopehood and his merciless 
Indian bands. Newington station is 4 M from Portsmouth, and beyond 
it the train crosses the Piscataqua River to the Dover-Point station, which 
is near the site of the earliest European settlement in New Hampshire. 
Cushing's station is near the Cuslrng estate; and Sawyer's is near Saw¬ 
yer’s Mills. The train next runs through a more thickly settled region, 
and soon reaches the terminus of the route. 

Dover, see page 281. 

72. Portsmouth to Manchester and Concord. 

By the Portsmouth R. R , in 2^-3 hrs. Fare, $1 60. The station in Portsmouth 
is near that of the Eastern R. R 

Stations. — Portsmouth to Greenland, 4 M ; Brackett’s; Stratham, 8; New¬ 
market Junction, 10; E Epping; Epping, 18; W. Epping: Raymond. 23; Caudia, 
29; Auburn, 33; Massabesic, 36; Manchester, 41; llooksett, 51 ; Concord, 59. 

The line soon crosses the Eastern R. R., and runs S. \V. to Greenland 
a rich farming and fruit-growing town, which is much 
visited in summer. There are 695 inhabitants here, being less than there 
were a century ago. The village is J M. from the station. The train 


SALEM TO LAWRENCE. 


Route 73. 419 


next runs near the broad and land-locked salt-water lake called Great 
Bay, and crosses the level and fertile fruit-raising town of Stratham. 
Stratham Hill overlooks Great Bay and the ocean, and views the White 
Mts., in the N. Beyond the Squamscot River the line crosses the Boston 
& Maine R. R. at Newmarket Junction. 1 M. S. is S. Newmarket 
(Sliute House), with large iron, machine, and engine works; and 2 M, N. 
is Newmarket (Washington House), a large trading village, on the Piscat- 
aqua River, where clothing, cotton cloth, and boots and shoes are made. 

Epping ( Pawtuckaway House) is a pleasant village in a good farming 
region, with small factories and three churches. 1 M. N. is the ancient 
main street, with several antiquated mansions. Epping has been declin¬ 
ing in population for over a century. At this point the track is crossed 
by the Nashua & Rochester R. R. W. Epping has two small mills. 
Raymond (Eagle Hotel) is in a farming town of 1,121 inhabit¬ 

ants, and has 3 churches and an academy. A short distance S. W. is 
Chester (stages from Derry), a bright and pleasant village where visitors 
from the cities find summer-rest (Village Hotel). 

Station, Candia, whose village is on a high ridge whence may be seen 
the White Mts., Mt. Wachusett, the Plum-Island lights (at night), and the 
ocean. This town was first named Charming fare, on account of its pleas¬ 
ant location; and its present name was given in honor of Gov. Wentworth, 
who was once in captivity on the Mediterranean island of Candia. 

Semi-daily stages run N. to Deerfield, a large and fertile farming and orchard 
town of 1,768 inhabitants, where numerous city people rusticate. It was settled in 
1756, and lost 18 men in the Revolution and 48 in the Rebellion. There are several 
fish abounding ponds, and some picturesque mountains, the chief of which are Paw¬ 
tuckaway, Saddleback Mt., and Fort Mt. Gen. B. F Butler was born here, in 18Ie 

Beyond Auburn station the train passes the summer-resort at Lake. 
Massabesic (see page 193) and soon enters the city of Manchester. From 
this point the train follows the Concord R. R. (page 194) up the Merrimac 
River to Concord. 


73. Salem to Lawrence. 

By the Lawrence Branch of the Eastern R R. 

Stations. — Salem; Peabody; Danversport; Danvers; Swan’s Crossing; Mid¬ 
dleton ; Boxford ; Sutton’s Mills ; Lawrence. 

On leaving Salem the train follows the course of the North River to Pea- 
body ( Baldwin Hotel), a prosperous town of 10,000 inhabitants, with 2 
banks, 6 churches, a paper, and the richly-endowed Peabody Institute, 
(see page 253). The valuation is about $6,000,000; and the chief industry 
is tanning and currying hides, in which 400 men are employed. George 
Peabody was born here, in 1795, in a house which is still preserved; and 
the town was named in his honor in 1868. The village is pleasant, and in 
its vicinity are several high hills and small lakes. Near this station the 
S. Reading and Salem & Lowell Railroads diverge to the 1. 


420 Route 71 


DANVERS. 


The Lawrence line runs N. over Crane Brook, to Danversport , a coal 
and lumber shipping-point on Porter’s River. Danvers station is at the 
shoe-manufacturing village of Danvers Plains , where the Newburyport R. 
R. is crossed. The Peabody Institute is in Peabody Park, on Sylvan St., 
and has a public library and lecture-hall. In this vicinity is the Walnut- 
Grove Cemetery, beyond which is Danvers Centre , with its carpet-factory. 
Opposite the town-hall is the soldiers’ monument. The town contains 
over 6,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches, a paper, bank, high-school, and 
about 150 farms, famous for prolific apple-orchards. The ancient witch¬ 
craft delusion arose in this town (see page 254). 

The new * Massachusetts Hospital tor the Insane is on a bold hill near 
Asylum station, and is reached by a sinuous and costly mac¬ 
adamized road 6,000 ft. long, with a grade of 3£ ft. in 100. It is a con¬ 
nected pile of ten immense brick buildings, in Elizabethan architecture, 
with several towers, double walls, cement floors, zinc roofs, fan ventila¬ 
tion, and steam heating-apparatus. It is 200 ft. above the adjacent town, 
with abundant sunlight and air, and commands a superb view, including 
the ocean, the environs of Boston, and scores of villages and cities, with 
Wachusett, Monadnock, and other conspicuous mountains in the W. and 
N. W. The buildings and furniture cost $1,620,000, and are fitted for 600 
patients, who are housed and fed far more luxuriously than the average 
tax-payer and citizen. 

The train next crosses the Ipswich River to Middleton , a small hamlet 
with one church, in a farming town of 9,00 inhabitants. The diversified 
rural town of Boxfurd lies to the N. of the line, and has 834 inhabitants. 
The train next enters N. Anduver, passing the bold Woodchuck Hill and 
crossing the outlet of Great Pond; meets the Boston & Maine R. R. at Sut¬ 
ton's Mills; and crosses the Merrimac River to Lawrence. 

Lawrence, see page 278. 

74. Boston to Amesbury. 

By the Eastern Div. and its Amesbury Branch. Boston to Newburyport, 37 M.; 
Salisbury, 39 ; Amesbury, 43 

Boston to Newburyport, see pages 248 - 258. The Amesbury train is 
taken at the Eastern station, and crosses the Merrimac River on a high 
bridge, whence the city and the ocean are visible on the r. The first sta¬ 
tion is near the ancient hamlet of E. Salisbury, whence stages run to Salis¬ 
bury Beach, (see page 260). The train now diverges from the Eastern 
line, and runs W., with views of the upper part of Newburyport on the 1. 
The Salisbury-Point station is near the boat-building village of the same 
name, and also near the quaint and ancient Rocky-Hill church. 

Amesbury ( American House) is a prosperous manufacturing village on 
the falls of the Powwow River, with large woollen and cotton mills and 
other industries. It has 4 churches, 2 banks, a paper, and a high-school, 


PALMER TO WINCHENDON. 


Route 75. 421 


and the adjacent farms are prolific in milk and vegetables. The town 
has about 10,000 inhabitants, and the adjacent town of Salisbury has 
about 1,300. Powwow Hill is just N. of the village, and is 323 ft. high. 
It commands a famous * view, including the ocean, Cape Ann, the 
Ipswich hills, the long strip of Plum Island, the picturesque city of New- 
burvport, the Isles of Shoals, Mt. Agamenticus, the long curves of the 
blue Merrimac River, and a great area to the N. and W., including even 
the distant White Mts. Daily stages run from Amesbury to the carriage¬ 
manufacturing village of Merrimac (5 M. W.), near Kimball’s Pond 
and Brandy-brow Hill. A branch railroad runs thence to Newton , on the 
Boston & Maine R. B. 

John Greenleaf Whittier, “ the Quaker Poet ” (born at Haverhill in 1807), has 
lived in Amesbury since 1840. His earlier years were spent in farming and journal¬ 
ism; and he was a fearless pioneer of the cause of Antislavery, to whose advance¬ 
ment his life was devoted. He is peculiarly the poet of New England, and has writ¬ 
ten admirable descriptions of its rural life and scenery. The ancient towns of Essex 
North and the surrounding seas have been richly illustrated by his legendary 
poems, especially by “ Snow-Bound,” “ The Tent on the Beach,” and “ The Ballads 
of New England.” 


75. Palmer to Winchendon. 

By the Ware-River Railroad in 49 M. Fare, $1.55 ; time, 2-3 hrs. 

Stations. — Palmer to Thorndike, 4 M.; Ware, 12; Gilbertville, 16 ; Old Fur¬ 
nace, 21 ; Barre Plains, 24 : Coldbrook, 27 ; Williamsville, 33; Templeton, 39 ; Bald- 
winsville, 43 ; Waterville, 47 ; Winchendon, 49 

The line runs N. through the pleasant glens of Palmer, and the New- 
London Northern Railroad soon diverges to the 1. The course of the Ware 
River is followed, and beyond the hamlet of Thorndike the Pattaquattic 
Ponds and Hill are seen on the r. Rounding the latter the train soon 
reaches Ware ( Hampshire House), where 900 operatives are engaged in 
cotton and woollen mills. The village is picturesquely situated near the 
foot qf Colonel’s Mt. (1,172 ft. high) and other bold highlands. This town 
has 7,500 inhabitants, 6 churches, a bank, a library, and a grange. 

The soil of Ware is singular, even in New England, for its hardness and sterility. 
It was granted to a company of the veterans of King Philip’s War, but after due 
examination they sold it for two cents an acre. President Dwight rode through the 
town, and said of the land, 11 It is like self-righteousness; the more a man has of it, 
the poorer he is.” The poetic account of the genesis of Ware asserts that 

“ Dame Nature onee, while making land, 

Had refuse left of stone and sand ; 

She viewed it well, then threw it down 
Between Cov's Ilili and Belchertown, 

And said, ‘ You paltry stutf, lie there, 

And make a town, and call it Ware ' ” 

The line next traverses a long valley, and enters Hardwick (Hardwick 
House), a large dairy-town with several prosperous paper and woollen 
mills. Gilbertville is a manufacturing village under Mt Dougal, whence 
stages run N. to Hardwick Centre in 2h M. Beyond Old Furnace the train 
soon reaches Barre Plains (Massasoit Hotel), whence stages run to Barre, 
3 M. N. This town has 2,460 inhabitants, 5 churches, a library, news- 


422 Route 76. 


SPRINGFIELD TO ATHOL. 


paper, high-school, and soldiers’ monument. The soil is good, and there 
are many dairy and pasture farms and valuable forests. The factories 
make cotton and woollen goods, boots and shoes, and palm-leaf hats. 

Daily stages run from Barre to Dana , 7 M. W. ; and to Petersham, 8 M. N. W., a 
lofty and ancient farming town where Gen. Lincoln defeated Shays’s rebel forces, in 
1787, and where Samuel Willard (the musician) and Dr. Austin Flint were born; 
also from Coldbrook station to Coldbrook. Springs (Sanitarium), £ M. S. E , 
valuable mineral-waters in the picturesque town of Oakham. 

The line now runs N. up the valley of the Burntshirt River, through a 
hilly and thinly-settled region, passing Williamsville and soon reaching 
Templeton Centre (two hotels), the chief village of a farming town of 3,000 
inhabitants, with 6 churches, a high-school, and several small factories. 

Stages run 4 M. W. to Phillipston, a highly diversified farming town with a pub¬ 
lic library and a soldiers’ monument (to 13 dead); also 4 M. E. to E. Templeton 
and S. Gardner. Templeton was granted to veterans of the Narragansett War. 

At Baldwinsville the Fitchburg Railroad is crossed, and the train runs 
N. bv Waterville to Winchendon (see page 413), where it meets the 
Cheshire & Monadnock and the Boston, Barre & Gardner Railroads. 

76. Springfield to Athol. 


Stations.—Springfield to Indian Orchard, M.; Ludlow, 7£ ; Collins, 10$ ; 
Red Bridge; Three Rivers, 16ij ; Barrett's Junction, 17:}; Bondsville, 19 ; W. Ware, 
19; Enfield, 27: Smith’s, 28: Greenwich, 30£; Greenwich Village, 32: N. Dana, 
38; New Salem, 40; S. Athol, 43; Athol, 48$ 

The line runs out from Springfield to the N. E., and soon reaches the 
pleasant village of Indian Orchard, beyond which it crosses the Chicopee 
River, near Jenckesville, a prosperous factory-village. Ludlow is 3 M. N. 
of its station (daily stages), in the centre of a farming town of 1,222 
inhabitants, with a handsome soldiers’ monument. The train follows the 
Chicopee River, and slowly rounds the massive Minechoag Mt. (on the 1.). 
Beyond Three Rivers it intersects the New-London Northern Railroad 
(Route 12), at Barrett's Junction and ascends the Swift-River valley by 
Bondsville, through a rolling country. Enfield (Swift-River House) is a 
rural hamlet in a farming and dairy town of 1,065 inhabitants, among 
high and wooded ridges. 

Mt. Ell and Rattlesnake Mt. are in Prescott; and in Pelham (Pelham Hotel) is 
Mt. Lincoln. 

Grepnioich (Greenwich Hotel) is just N. of Mt. Lizzie, in a rural town of 606 
inhabitants, occupving the old Indian domain of Quabin. The line next traverses 
the hill-country to N. Dana (small hotel), near Neeseponsett Pond. Daily stages 
run S. E. to Dana (5 M.) and Barre (12 M.), and to New Salem (New-Salem House), 
a highland hamlet near the lofty Packard’s Mt. Bevond S. Athol the train reaches 
Atliol ( Summit Hotel , a large summer resort), at the intersection of the Fitch¬ 
burg Railroad. Athol is a pretty anil growing village, with 2 banks, 5 churches, 
a high-school, and several fine resideme-. The water-power of Miller's River is 
utilized for manufactories of cotton > nd woollen goods, palm-leaf hats, paper, 
scythes, castings, shoes, and other articles. The town has nearly 200 productive 
farms, with 6,400 inhabitants. 


MILFORD SPRINGS. 


Route. 77. 423 


77 . Nashua to Keene. 

Stations. — Nashua to S. Merrimack, 5 M.; Amherst, 8 : Milford, 11; Wilton, 
15; S. Lyndeboro, 19; Greenfield, 26; S. Bennington, 30; Hancock Junction, 31; 
Hancock, 35; E. Harrisville, 39; Ilarrisville, 42; W. Harrisville, 45; Marlboro’, 49 ; 
Keene, 56. See also page 192. Semi-daily stages run from Amherst station to the 
venerable village of Amherst (Amherst House), 3J M. N. W., with a soldiers 
monument on its central common. Stages also from Amherst station, 1* - 2 M to 


Milford Springs 

(* Hotel Ponemah, built in 1883, and run by Barnes and Dunklee, of the 
Hotel Brunswick, Boston), high up on the hills, and commanding an ex¬ 
tensive view down the Merrimack Valley, and over lines of distant hills and 
leagues of forests. The medicinal virtues of these springs were discovered 
in 1818, after a series of angelic apparitions near their site (such is the 
rural legend). They became very popular as a remedy for cutaneous 
diseases, rheumatism, debility, dyspepsia, and other maladies, and were 
visited annually by thousands of invalids. 

The old hotel still stands at the foot of the hill, upon which the Hotel 
Ponemah was built in 1883, with all the luxuries of a first-class house, 
wide piazzas, airy halls, open fireplaces, gas lights, electric bells, barber¬ 
shop, billiards, livery-stable, etc. There are pleasant rambles m the adja¬ 
cent forest, beyond the quaint little pavilions over the springs. Vast 
quantities of the Milford water are sent to the cities, and used medicinally 
or for a table-water. The Ponemah water has but 3 grains of mineral 
matter in a gallon, and is one of the purest waters known, of great virtue in 
cases of dyspepsia, rheumatism, and other organic troubles. The Milford 
is another very pure spring, rich in natural salts and carbonic acid; and 
the Iron and Magnesia Springs are tonic, and recuperative in their prop¬ 
erties. The Hotel Ponemah is 700 ft. above the sea, amid fragrant pine- 
groves, and near a charming country hill-road. 

Mont Vernon (Conant Hall, 60 guests; Bellevue House, 50; Sunset House ; 
Campbell’s, Deacon Sterrett’s. etc., 3 6 -10 a week), 5 M. from Milford station 
(semi-daily stage), and 7 M. from the Ponemah, is a pretty hill-top hamlet, 1,000 ft. 
above the sea, with grand views and interesting drives (see also page 192). It has 
many summer-visitors. and is but 4 M from Joe-English Hill, in New Boston. 

A pleasant drive of 5£ M. leads from the Ponemah to Hollis, the an¬ 
cient Nissitisset , a deeply embowered farming-village. There are other 
attractive drives to Amherst, 4£ M ; Nashua, 9; Barnes’ Falls, 9 ; Lake 
Baboosic, 10; Lake Potonapa, 7; Purgatory Falls, 8; etc. 

From Amherst station the train ascends the Souhegan valley, by the 
busy village of Milford , to Wilton station, whence daily stages run to 
W. Wilton, 4; and Greenville, 8 M. 

Wilton to Greenfield, see page 415. 


424 Route 78. 


LEOMINSTER. 


78. Fitchburg to Providence and New Bedford. 

This is a favorite route between Vermont and New Hampshire, on the 
N., and Southeastern Massachusetts, Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard, and 
Nantucket, on the S. and E. Trains from Fitchburg to New Bedford in 
1 £ - 2 hrs. 

The train runs S. E. from Fitchburg down the picturesque Nashua 
valley to Leominster (Leominster Hotel), an ancient and attractive manu¬ 
facturing village among the hills. From Pratt's Junction a branch diverge.' 
to Sterling and Worcester; and the present route runs S. E. to carpet 
making Clinton (Clinton House), where it crosses the Worcester, Nashua, 
and Rochester Railroad. From Bolton Depot semi-daily stages run 3 M. 
N. E. to Bolton, famous for its rural beauty, rich farms, and far-viewing 
hills. In Berlin (Belmont House) the Mass. Central R. R. is 

crossed. The next station is Northborougli (Northborough Hotel), sur¬ 
rounded by noble hills, and containing several churches and a soldiers* 
monument. Marlborough (Central House) is a rich farming and shoe¬ 
making citv of 14,000 inhabitants, with 2 papers, 7 churches, and sol¬ 
diers’ monument. Here stood a village of Eliot’s Christian Indians; and 
King Philip’s warriors attacked the place in 1676. (Branch line hence 
to S. Acton.) Southborougli is a lovely rural lull-town, with a soldiers’ 
monument on the green in front of the Congregational Church. Here is 
the Episcopal St. Mark’s School, with its handsome stone chapel; and 
near the village is Burnett’s famous Deerfoot Farm. Fayville is a shoe- 
making village. Framingham , see page 125. At S. Framingham, the 
line crosses the Boston and Albany R. R. (Route 21), and other routes 
diverge to Milford (see page 125), and Lowell (see page 125). The New- 
Bedford train runs S. E. 3 M. to Sherborn, an apple-bearing town, near 
the Woman’s Prison of Massachusetts. The train next crosses the Charles 
River, and at MeJJield Junction intersects the N. Y. & N. E, R. R. 
(Woonsocket Division). Medfield (Medjield Hotel) is a handsome vil¬ 
lage, where straw hats and bonnets are made (see page 120) At Walpole 
(Walpole Hotel), formerly a part of Dedham, the N. Y. & N. E. R. R. 
main line is crossed. Beyond S. Walpole and the Neponset River is 
Foxborough (Cocassel House), manufacturing straw goods, and adorned 
with a granite memorial hall. At Mansfield , the Boston and Providence 
R. R. is crossed; and the train runs thence S. E. across Norton to Taun¬ 
ton, and Weir Junction, connecting there for Cape Cod or Fall River; 
and thence to New Bedford (see page 90). 


WAYLAND. — SUDBURY. 


Route 79. 425 


79. Central Massachusetts. 

By the Central Massachusetts Division of the Boston Maine Railroad. 

Boston to Northampton in 3 to 4 hours. 

The train runs out from the Lowell station, in Boston, and crosses the 
cities of Cambridge and Somerville. At N. Cambridge Junction a branch 
line diverges to the historic towns of Lexington and Concord, and to the 
pleasant summer-resort of Bedford Springs. The Central line keeps to 
the W., and passes the aristocratic hill-village of Belmont , longtime the 
home of Howells ; Waverly, with one of the noblest groves of mighty 
oaks in America, growing on a steep moraine, and celebrated in Lowell’s 
poems ; Waltham , the seat of the great American watch-factory, where 
more than 2,000,000 watches have been made ; Weston , with several 
patrician summer-estates ; and Wayland ( Way land Inn), a lovely rural 
village, near the Sudbury Meadows and the far-viewing Reeves Hill. 
Lydia Maria Child dwelt here for many years. 

Just beyond Wayland, the train crosses the Sudbury River ; and at 
S. Sudbury the railway from Lowell to Framingham and Newport is in¬ 
tersected (see page 125). Sudbury Centre is seen high upon its hill-top, on 
the N., wreathed with memories of long-past battles. Wayside Inn sta¬ 
tion is about 1 M. from the old tavern immortalized by Longfellow (see 
page 125), which is still in good preservation. 

Rockbotlom and Hudson ( Hudson House) are stations in the town of 
Hudson, in the Assabet Valley, with shoe-factories and other industries. 
Here crosses the railway running from the busy shoe-making city of Marl¬ 
boro to Maynard, the seat of the enormous Assabet Woolen Mills — and S. 
Acton. Semi-daily stages run 3^ M N. W. from Hudson to Bolton, a beau¬ 
tiful and secluded hill-village, near the lofty Wattoquottoc Hill. Beyond 
S Bolton , the train crosses the railway from Fitchburg to New Bedford, 
at W. Berlin. Beyond S. Clinton (wdience stages to Clinton) the line 
passes the stations of Boylston and W. Boy/ston (Central House) in a 
thinly settled rural region. At Oakdale, the Central line crosses the 
railway running from Worcester to Fitchburg and to Portland. Semi¬ 
daily stages run 6), M. N. W. from Oakdale to W. Sterling and E. 
Princeton, the latter of which is almost enclosed between Justice Hill and 
the lofty heights of Mount Wachusett (see page 412). 

Station, Quinapoxet, in the town of Holden, which contains six other 
valley hamlets. Just over the line, in Paxton, Asnebumskit Hill reaches 
a height of 1,407 ft. above the sea-level, and commands a broad and de¬ 
lightful view. Daily stages run between Paxton and Worcester, 8 M. 

At Jefferson , the line crosses the railway from Worcester to Gardner 
and Winchendon, leading to Princeton and other hill-resorts. Muscho- 
pauge station is near the picturesque Musquapog Pond. 

Rutland ( Muschopauge House , $8 to $15 a week; Prospect House, $7 to 


42G Route 79. 


RUTLAND. — BARRE. 


$10) is the central town of Massachusetts, on a plateau 1,200 ft. high. It 
has many legends of the Indian wars, and of Burgoyne’s captive army, 
longtime quartered here on Barrack Hill. Rutland attracts many visitors 
in summer, being very cool, and with refreshing and healthful air. W. 
Rutland, station is 1 M. from its village ; and from Coldbrook Springs 
(Spring Hotel), with once-famous mineral springs, semi-daily conveyances 
run 3 M. S. to rural (Jakham. 

Now the train enters the Ware-River valley, and runs far S. W. along¬ 
side the Boston & Albany Co.’s railway from Springtield to Winchendon, to 
avoid the great and rugged highlands which wall in the Swift-River valley. 
Stages run from Barre station 3 M. N. to Barre ( Hotel Barre; Naquag 
House), a pleasant village much sought by summer-vacation tourists, on a 
far-viewing hill-top. Daily stages run thence to Nichewaug, Dana, and 
Petersham. 

Barre Plains ( Hotel Brunswick) is in the same broad and hill-adorned 
dairy-town. Hardwick is another butter-and-cheese town; and from 
Gilbertville (Windsor Hotel) stages run semi-daily 3 M. N. to Hardwick 
Centre, high up among the hills. 

Gilbertville is a factory-village ; and so is the next station, Ware (see 
page 421), with its cotton and woollen mills at the falls on Ware River. 
Fassing the rugged Pattaquattic Hill, the train soon reaches the factory 
village of Bondville, on the Swift River. Near the latter point the line 
crosses the railway from Springfield to Athol. 

Belchertown (Highland House , Belcher House , $10 to $15 a week) is a 
handsome highland village near the W. end of the Mount-Holvoke range, 
and amid much beauty of scenery. It is a favorite summer-resort for 
New-Yorkers, who have some attractive villas in this vicinity. Here Dr. 
J. G. Holland was born ; and Henry Ward Beecher preached his first 
sermon (see also page 100). 

The New-London Northern Railway is often in sight, up to S. Amherst. 
The Central line descends toward the Connecticut Valley, with charming 
views of the Holyoke peaks, winding and unwinding in interesting combi¬ 
nations, and seen across lilv-strew r n ponds. 

Station, Amherst , close to the ancient college (see page 100). A long 
grade leads the line down to Hadley (page 161), w'hence semi-daily stages 
run 3 M. N. to N. Hadley, following the road along the beautiful river. 

It is less than a league from Hadley, over the rich meadows of the Con¬ 
necticut, to Northampton (see page 159). 

The Poughkeepsie-Bridge Route, from Boston to Washington and the 

West. 

Pullman buffet cars leave Boston daily, at late afternoon, arriving 
without change at Washington before noon the next day. 

The route is by the Central Massachusetts Division of the Boston & 
Maine Railroad to Northampton. Thence the Washington train follows 


LAKE RAPONDA. 


Routt so. 427 


the New-Haven & Northampton line through Easthanipton and Southamp¬ 
ton, Westtield and Granbv, to Simsbury. Here the Central Nevv-England 
& Western Railroad is entered, and the train runs through the beautiful 
and romantic mountain-scenery of northwestern Connecticut, in Norfolk, 
Canaan, and Salisbury (see page 121). Some of the finest peaks of the 
Taconic Range approach the line as it swings northward to Boston Corner. 
After a long run down the valleys of Dutchess County the train reaches 
the Hudson, and runs across the river on the famous Poughkeepsie Bridge, 
If M. long, with three cantilevers resting on four pyramidal steel towers 
100 ft. high. 

Poughkeepsie, see page 346. After crossing the broad river, the train 
runs S. W. across Ulster County, to Campbell Hall and Orange, and trav¬ 
erses the entire length of Orange County, famous for its rich dairies. 
Then comes a section of the highland country of New Jersey, beginning at 
Deckertown. Beyond the fine mountain-scenery around the Delaware 
Water Gap, the line enters Pennsylvania, and runs across to Bethlehem, 
the famous capital of the Moravian Church. The route thence lies nearly 
south, across a region largely populated by Pennsylvania Dutch, to Phila¬ 
delphia. 

The line from Philadelphia to Washington is the famous old Baltimore 
& Ohio, traversing Wilmington, the metropolis of Delaware; crossing the 
broad Susquehanna River at Havre de Grace ; and running around Balti¬ 
more, the Monumental City. It is less than an hour thence to Washington. 

80. The Upper Deerfield Valley. 

The Hoosac-Tunnel if Wilmington Railroa'I was opened in 1891. It is 25 M. 
long, from the E. entrance of the Iloosac Tunnel to Wilmington ; and is a narrow- 
gauge line, with stations at Iloosac Tunnel, Monroe Bridge, Sherman's, Readsboro, 
Whitingham and Jacksonville, Graves Place, Castle Bridge, and Wilmington. 

The railway follows the wild and picturesque Deerfield Valley, here 
narrowing to a mere gorge, overhung by rugged hills and deep forests, and 
with the river flashing in its depths. Monroe Bridge has Ramage’s paper- 
mills; Sherman’s, a. group of lime-kilns; and Readsboro (Goodell’s Hotel), 
the Newtons’ paper, box, and chair mills. Whitingham is near the birth¬ 
place of Brigham Young, and Sadawga Pond. Wilmington ( Vermont 
House) is one of the quaint old hill-villages of the Green-Mountain State, 
with white houses shining over the valley, a newspaper, savings-bank, 
and four churches. Daily stages run to Brattleboro. 

Lake Raponda (Lake-Raponda House, 100 guests), 4 M. N. of Wilming¬ 
ton, bv stage, is framed by the Green Mountains, 2,200 ft above the sea. 
Its crystalline waters abound in fish. The shores are held by an associa¬ 
tion, for sites for summer cottages. 

A path leads to the top of Haystack Mountain, which views Holyoke 
and Grevlock, Monadnock and Wachusett, Ascutnev and Wantastiquet. 


428 Route 81. 


NEEDHAM. — MEDFIELD. 


81. Boston to Woonsocket. 

New-York </• New-Enyland Railroad. 

The train leaves the Albany station, at Boston, and runs over the line of 
the Boston & Albany Railroad, through Longwood and the beautiful 
suburban town of Brookline ; past the Chestnut-Hill Reservoir; through 
Newton Centre, with its great Baptist Theological Seminary; and to the 
picturesque old manufacturing village of Newton Upper Falls. 

At Cook Street station, just before reaching the Upper Falls, the train 
leaves the Newton Circuit line of the Boston & Albany Railroad, and 
passes on to the N. Y. & N. E. rails. Crossing the Charles River, it reaches 
Hiyhlandville , a forest-girt hill-hamlet, near Rosemary Lake. The next 
station is Needham, a pleasant old village, which was incorporated in 
1711, and named after Needham in England. Amid the picturesque hill 
and river scenery of this town are numerous homes of Boston merchants ; 
and there are valuable market-gardens on the lowlands. The town has 
3,000 inhabitants; with fine tree-lined roads, ten churches, and a public 
library. Running thence S. W. by the steep High Rock, the train crosses 
the Charles River near Charles-River Villaye, and runs down to Dover, a 
quiet old rural hamlet, near the far-viewing Pekin Hill. 

Medfield (Curtis House) is a very attractive village, with gray old 
colonial farm-houses half-hidden under immemorial trees, elms, maples, 
and oaks. Among its ancient memorials are the Bosworth and Peaks 
cottages, nearly two centuries old. Among the natives of Medfield were 
Hannah Adams, the eccentric and learned historian ; Lowell Mason, the 
illustrious musical composer ; and George II. Derby, an officer of the 
United-States army, and well known for his humorous writings, over the 
signature of ‘“John Phoenix.” Inness, Monks, and Cass for years painted 
pictures of the charming rural scenery in this vicinity. The chief industry 
of the town is making straw goods. 

In 3675. King Philip, ‘‘riding an elegant horse,” led a swarm of Indian 
warriors into the village, and burned 50 houses, killing 20 persons and 
taking many prisoners. At last, the people got an old cannon into position, 
and drove off their unwelcome visitors. 

Station, Millis , near the Oak-Grove Farm. Medway ( Qmnnbequin 
House) is an old-fashioned village, with straw-works and canneries. W. 
Medway (Danforth Hall) makes boots and shoes. Daily stages run 4 M. 
\\ . from Caryville to Milford. At Bellinyhnm Junction the line crosses 
the railway from Milford to Franklin and Providence. 

At Woonsocket Junction the line crosses the main line of the N. Y. & N. 
E Railroad; and soon afterward reaches the busy manufacturing town of 
Woonsocket (see page 93). 

From this point the line runs down through several manufacturing 
hamlets in Rhode Island, to Pascoay , where woollen-mills are in operation. 


NORTHERN VERMONT. 


Route 83. 429 


82. Boston to Brooklyn. 

The Long-Island and Eastern- States Line is a route set in operation in 1891, 
with solid Pullman vestibuled trains leaving Boston and Brooklyn at noon, and 
reaching Brooklyn or Boston at 8 P. M. The fare is $5. The Boston station is 
that of the New-York & New-England Railroad, at the foot of Summer Street. The 
Brooklyn terminals are at Flatbush Avenue, reached from the East-River Bridge 
by Fifth-Avenue elevated cars ; and Long Island City, reached from New York by 
the 34th-Street ferry. 

Stations. — Boston to Franklin, 28 M. ; Blackstone, 36 ; Putnam, 62; Williman- 
tic, 86 ; Manchester, lUS ; Hartford, 117 ; New Britain, 126 ; Bristol, 135; Water- 
bury, 150; Hawleyville, 174; Wilson’s Point, 205; Oyster Bay, 219; Brooklyn, 
253. 

As far as Putnam, this line follows the route described on page 117. 

From Putnam to Hawleyville, see pages 94-96. 

From Hawleyville to S. Norwalk (near Wilson’s Point), see pages 115, 
116. 

At Wilson's Point the train runs on board the immense iron steamer 
Cape Charles , and is ferried across Long-Island Sound, 14 miles, in 45 
minutes. 

The route thence to Brooklyn is by Glen Cove, famous for its great 
starch works ; Roslvn, for many years the home of the late William Cullen 
Bryant ; Mineola, near the cathedral-town of Garden City; and Jamaica, 
famous for its suburban market-gardens. 

83. Northern Vermont. 

From, the White Mountains to Lake Champlain . 

By the Maine Central Railroad from Fabyan's to Lunenburg, and thence by the 
St-Johnsbury Sf Lake-Champlain Division of the Boston & Maine Railroad. Fa¬ 
byan's to Maquam, 6 hours. 

Stations.— Fabyan's to Zealand, 2 M. ; Twin Mountain, 4; Quebec Junction, 
10; Hazen's Junction, 11; Whitefield, 14 ; Scott’s Junction, 17 ; Lunenburg, 20; 
E. Concord, 25 ; Miles Pond, 27 ; N. Concord, 31 ; W. Concord, 34 ; E. St Johns- 
bury,38 ; St, Johnsbury, 42 ; Danville, 54 ; W. Danville, 57 ; Walden, 62; Greens¬ 
boro, 70 ; E. Hardwick, 73: Hardwick, 77; Wolcott, 83; Morrisville, 91; Hyde 
Park, 95; Johnson, 98 ; Cambridge Junction, 106: Fletcher, 111; E. Fairfield ; 
Fairfield, 116; Sheldon, 120; Sheldon Junction, 125; E. Ilighgate, 129 ; lligh- 
gate, 133 ; E. Swanton, 137 ; Swanton, 138 ; Maquam, 140. 

The first part of this route descends the Wild Ammonoosuc valley; 
crosses to Whitefield ; rounds Dalton Mountain ; and runs over the Con¬ 
necticut River to the pleasant highland hamlet of Lunenburg ( Chandler 
House), which commands a fine view of the Lancaster meadows and the 
White Mts. Beyond this point, it passes along Miles Pond, and traverses 
the quiet old hamlets of Concord (branch railway from N. Concord to 


430 Route, 83. 


LAMOILLE VALLEY. 


Victory and Stevens), following the valley of Moose River down nearly to 
the busy town of St. Johnsbury (see page 169). The next station, Dan¬ 
ville Green (Elm House), is famous for its noble view of the White Mts. 
Within an hour’s running westward (19 M.) from St. Johnsbury the rail¬ 
way rises 800 ft., and from its long horseshoe curves affords many charm¬ 
ing views of the White and Green Mts. W. Danville is the station for 
Joe’s Pond, famous for its black-bass fishing. Walden station is the 
summit of the line, with broad and beautiful prospects. Daiiv stages run 
thence to Walden and Cabot (Winooski House). 

Beyond Walden the line traverses the famous Greensborough Bend, 
swinging around the hillsides for seven miles to gain a single mile, the 
tracks being visible far below. Stages run daily from Greensborough 
Bend (inn) to CraJ'tsbury, and Greensborough, near Caspian Lake (Cas- 
pian-Lake House). This region produces much butter, grain, and maple 
sugar; and is visited in summer by many New-Haven people. The train 
descends the pleasant Lamoille Valley to Hardwick (Centennial House; 
Maple Park), witli fine views of Mt. Mansfield and Camel’s Hump. Beyond 
Wolcott (Wolcott House) comes Morrisville (Morrisville House; Vermont), 
whence daily stages run 4), M. to Lake Elmore (Lake-Elmore House) and 
8 M. S. W. to Stowe (see page 202). 

Station, Hyde Park (Elms House), the capital of Lamoille Count}', and 
the home of Gov. Carroll. Daily stages run 37 M. N. to Jay and N. Troy, 
on the Canadian Pacific Railway, by Eden, Lowell (change), and Westfield. 

Beyond Hyde Park, the line follows the river between Sterling Mountain 
and Round Mountain, to Cambridye Junction. 

Turning sharply to the N. the train leaves the Lamoille Valley, and runs 
for nearly a score of miles through the mountains of Fletcherand Fairfield, 
tothe Missisquoi Valiev, which it follows by Sheldon Junction, the crossing 
of the Central Vermont line, to E. High gate and High gate. It crosses the 
Central Vermont again; and after passing through Swanton, reaches its 
terminus on Maquam Bay ( Hotel Champlain), whence steamboats run 
down Lake Champlain. 

The Lower Lamoille Valley. By the Burlington Lamoille Division, 

C. Vt. R. R. 

Stations. — Burlington to Winooski, 3 M.; Essex Junction, 8; Essex Centre, 
11; Jericho 15; Underhill, 19 ; N. Underhill, 23 ; Cambridge, 30 ; Jeffersonville. 
33 ; Cambridge Junction, 34. 

Leaving the main line of the C. Vt. R. R. at Essex Junction (Central 
House), the line crosses to the valley of Brown’s River, at Essex Centre, 
where there are several summer boarding-houses. Jericho (Beach House! 
is another pleasant hamlet among the hills. 

Underhill (Dixon House, 75 guests; $8 to $12 a week) is a pretty village 
N. of and in full view of the grand uplifted profile of Mt. Mansfield. 


VERMONT ISLANDS. 


Route 85. 431 


There are many attractive drives in the vicinity, including Cillev Hill 
O 2 M.), with its magnificent view of the Green Mts.; Fairfax Falls (15 M.); 
the dens, cliffs, and caverns of Nebraska Notch ; Bolton Notch (11 M.); and 
Mt. Mansfield. Semi-dailv stages run 3 M. E. to Underhill Centre (Cot¬ 
tage House). 

Cambridge ( Borough House) has a daily stage 4 M. S. E. to Pleasant 
Valley, amid the ridges of Mount Mansfield. J effersonrille (Cottage House) 
is a brisk manufacturing village, with three churches, in the Lamoille 
Valley. At Cambridge Junction the present route meets the St.-Johns- 
buryand Lake-Champlain Railroad. 


84. The Northern Islands. 

Besides the steamboat routes from Burlington and Plattsburgh, there are 
daily stages running to these interesting islands, leaving E. Alburgh, on 
the O. & L. C. R. R., and visiting Alburgh Springs, 1^ M.; Alburgh 
Centre, 3§; Isle La Motte, 11|; La Grange, 10^; N. Hero, 17; Grand Isle, 
24 ; Keeler’s Bay, 30 ; and S. Hero, 32. 

Isle La Motte (Houghton'’s) covers 4,GOO acres, and produces much 
valuable marble. 

North Hero (several boarding-houses) covers 7,400 acres, and was set¬ 
tled in 1783. Its village, called “The City,” contains the public buildings 
of this island county. 

South Hero (Iodine-Spring House; Island House; and four summer 
boarding-houses) covers 18,000 fertile and level acres, being 14 M. long by 
3^ M. wide. It is 13 M. by daily stage (over the long bridge) from 
Milton station. 

Eastward of these islands extends one of the fairest parts of Lake Cham¬ 
plain, nearly cut off from that water, and covering almost 100 square miles. 
It is deep and clear, and has a dozen or more pretty islets. This is a 
favorite place to fish for black bass, yellow perch, and pike. 

On St.-Albans Bay are the Rockv-Point Hotel and Lake-View House 
($0 to $15 a week), each about 6 M. from St. Albans. There are also three 
summer boarding-houses here, charging $5 to $8 a week. 


85. The White Mountains to Quebec. 

By the Maine Central and Quebec Central Railways. Pullman through trains at 
night in 11 hours. 

Chief Stations. — Portland to North Conway, 60 M. ; Intervale, 63 ; Glen, 66 ; 
Bartlett, 72 ; Sawyer’s River, 76 ; Frankenstein, 82 ; Crawford House, 87 ; Fabyan 
House, 91 ; Quebec Junction, 100 ; Jefferson, 105; Riverton, 108; Lancaster, 112 ; 
Guildhall, 118 ; Maidstone, 125 ; N. Stratford, 132 ; Columbia Bridge, 141 ; Cole- 
brook, 145; Piper Hill, 151; W. Stewartstown, 153; Beecher Falls, 155 ; Hall's 
Stream, 157; E. Hereford, 160 ; Paquetteville, 165: Malvina, 169; Auckland, 171 > 
St. Malo, 173 ; Clifton, 179 ; Eaton Corner, 187 ; Cookshire Junction, 191 ; Brook- 


432 Route, 86. 


THE RANGELEY LAKES. 


bury, 199; Dudswell Junction, 204,322; Dudswell, 209: Weedon, 220 ; Garthby, 
231 ; Coleraine, 241; Thettord Mines, 251; Broughton, 262 ; Irving, 271; Beauce 
Junction, 284 ; St. Anselme, 306; St. Henry Junction, 516 : Quebec, 322. 

This route traverses the wild deliles of the White Mts., on its way from 
Portland or Boston to Quebec; and passes several of the chief summer- 
resorts. At Quebec Junction, between the Twin-Mountain House and 
Whitefield, the Quebec Division of theM. C. Railroad swings off to the N., 
and soon reaches the station 1J M. from Jefferson (see page 229). Noble 
mountain views are enjoyed, as the train advances to Lancaster, one of 
the most attractive county-towns in New England, and much visited in 
summer. Thence the route lies up the fertile and pleasant Connecticut 
Talley, with the Pilot Mts. on the right. At N. Stratford, connection is 
made with the Grand Trunk Railway. Colebrook is the station for Dix- 
ville Notch; and from W. Stewartstown daily stages run to Connecticut 
Lake (page 245), 17 M. N. E. 

Soon afterward, the train enters the eastern townships of Canada, 
originally settled by New-England Loyalists. The Canadian Pacific Rail¬ 
way is crossed at Cookshire ; and at Dudswell Junction the train runs on to 
the rails of the Quebec Central Railway. Marbleton has large marble- 
quarries ; Lake Weedon ships much lumber; Southbv is on the shore of 
the attractive Lake Aylmer; and Thetford employs GOO men in mining the 
rare fibrous mineral, asbestos. 

Near Beauce Junction (with the Chaudiere-Valley line to St. Francis), 
the train enters the Chauditre Talley, which is followed down for many 
miles, along the route traversed in 1775 by Arnold’s heroic army. After 
passing several typical Canadian hamlets, with tin-clad spires and red 
roofs, the train reaches Levis, and the ferry across the majestic St. Law¬ 
rence to Quebec (see page 375). 


86. The Rangeley Lakes. 

are made very accessible by the opening (in 1891) of the Phillips & Range- 
ley Railroad. The journey is made in 12 hours, from Boston by Port¬ 
land to Rangeley (8.30 A. M. to 8.30 P. M.). Boston to Rangeley and 
return, $12.50. Address W. A. Rich. Phillips, Maine, for routes and 
rates. The route follows either Route 37 (see pages 248 to 274) or Route 38 
(pages 274 to 284) to Portland; and Route 41 (pages 291 to 292) to Phillips. 
Thence the Phillips and Rangeley line runs to Redington Mills, Dead 
River, and Rangeley, in I f to 2 hours. 

Buckboards leave Rangeley daily for Kennebago Lake (Kennebago 
ITouse), 9 M. N. A steamboat runs twice daily from Rangeley to Indian 
Rock ( Mountain View House), whence a road 1^ M. long leads to the 
steamboat on Lake Mooselucmaguntic ( Mooselucmaguntic House, at Haines 
Landing; and Bemis Camps; also Pleasant-Island Camps, on Cupsuptic 


THE MAINE FOREST. 


Route 87. 433 


Lake). Connections are made below for Lakes Mollyckunkanunik, Welo- 
kennebacook, and Umbagog. 

The mails are taken from Rangelev 10 M. N. by road thrice weeklv in 
summer to Kennebago Lake. I here is a daily mail-route from Rangeley 
to Camp Caribou , on Parmachenee Lake, leading by steamboat to the N. 
end of Cupsuptic Lake, and thence 30 M. N. W. by road. 

87. The Maine Forest. 

The Canadian Pacific Railway. 

Stations. — St.John to Mattawamkeag, 146 M.; Chester, 153; Sehocis, 167 ; 
Lake View, 182 ; Urownville Junction, 188 ; Onawa, 206 ; Greenville, 222 ; Moose- 
head, 232 ; Askwith, 240 ; Mackamp, 240 ; Long Pond, 255 ; Jackman, 262 ; Holeb, 
275; Lowelltowu, 286; Boundary, 290; Lake Megantic, 306; Sherbrooke, 373; 
Montreal, 481. 

The Canadian Pacific Railway, from St. John to Montreal, Winnipeg, 
and Vancouver, crosses the wilderness of Maine by a splendid first-class 
line, giving access to many localities hitherto almost inaccessible. 

From Mattawamkeag , a station well known to canoe-men, on the 
Penobscot River, the route westward leads through a thinly settled region. 
Seboois is not far from the island-studded Lake Seboois. 

Lake View is near the foot of Schoodic Lake, whose S. and S. W. 
shores are followed by the train for a long distance. The lake is very ir¬ 
regular and picturesque, 9 by 2 M. in area, and full of fish. At Brownville 
Junction , the line crosses the railway to Katahdin Iron Works. Deep 
rock-cuttings are now traversed, with frequent views of Boarstone Mt., 
the Roach-Brook valley, and the Benson Ponds. 

Onawa is near the beautiful and island-strewn Lake Onawa, in old 
times known as Ship Pond, and skirted for a long distance by the Cana¬ 
dian Pacific. The line crosses a ravine near Onawa on a noticeable iron 
bridge, 1500 ft. long and 130 ft. high. In the valley of Wilson Stream, the 
route runs over high galleries and trestles, along the base of Boarstone 
Mountain; and so swings round to Greenville (Moosehead Inn), the chief 
port of Moosehead Lake. Steamboats run thence to the Mount-Kineo 
House and other landings (see page 296); and a railway diverges to 
Bangor. 

The line follows the shore of Moosehead Lake for miles beyond Green¬ 
ville, with pleasant views over the waters, from rocky points and the cross¬ 
ings of the bays. 

Moosehead (hotel) station is near the shore of the great lake, which 
discharges into the Kennebec River near Askwith station. The track 
crosses the E. outlet just below the dam. After leaving the lake, the track 
traverses the wonderful natural pass of Misery Notch, between walls 300 
ft. high, a natural defile through an otherwise impassable range of moun¬ 
tains. The route ascends the valley of the Moose River, by the lovely 


434 Route 87. 


CANADIAN PACIFIC. 


Brassua Lake and Long Lake, to the hamlet of Jackmantown (Adams’s 
Hotel), whence Long Pond and the connected waters may be descended by 
canoes to Moosehead Lake, 32 M. E. Daily stages run 2 M. to Moose- 
River Village (Newton House), whence stages every other day II M. N. 
W. to Sandy Bay (Hilton’s Hotel) and 2 M. farther to Boundary Line, 
where the Old Canada Road crosses the international frontier. 13 M. S E. 
of Jackmantown, along the Old Canada Road (which leads to The Forks, 
Solon, and Skowhegan), is Parlin Pond, with its hotel and post-office (15 M. 
bv stage thrice weekly from The Forks). A favorite canoeing route from 
Moose-River Village leads up to the AVood Ponds and Attean Pond, 
abounding in trout, whence 1 M. of good portage road conducts to Iloleb 
Pond. 

Beyond Jackmantown the line runs near Wood Pond and the beautiful 
Attean Pond, following the latter for 5 M. Further W. is Holeb, not far 
from Iloleb Pond, whose pleasant waters are seen from the train. 

Beyond the low and rugged Boimdary Mts., the line enters Canada, 
and descends to the shore of Lake Megantic, which is followed for several 
miles. 


CAMDEN. 


Route 88. 435 


88. The Maine Sea-Coast. 

Camden (Mt.-Vieio House; Ocean House) is a beautiful seashore resort 
8 M. from Rockland (daily communication by Boston and Bangor steam¬ 
ers), with costly summer-villas, large boarding-houses, and pleasant islands 
and beaches. Here, also, are several shipyards and the largest anchor- 
foundry in America. Near by is a range of very picturesque and lofty 
mountains, visible from far off at sea, and affording amid its defiles fine 
bits of Tyrolese scenery. The precipice-fringed Mt. Megunticook, 1,205 
ft. high, commands a vast sea-view; and Mt. Batty overlooks Penobscot 
Bay as far as Mt. Desert and Matiuicus. The scenery about Lincolnrille 
Pond , Ragged Mt., and elsewhere on the inland drives, is full of beauty 
and interest. 

Rockport ( Carleton House , $7-10 a week), 1-2 M. from Camden, is 
a rugged ship-building and lime-burning hamlet, with charming marine 
scenery, and drives to Beech Hill, Jameson’s Point, and Camden (fine 
scenery on the shore-road). Within a few years Camden and Rockport 
have become well-known as summer-resorts, and have many handsome 
cottages on their hills and headlands (see also page 317). 

Northport ( Waverley House), a summer-port of the Boston and Bangor 
and other steamers, is a sea-fronting bluff crowned by hundreds of summer- 
cottages, between the pretty hamlet of Saturday Cove and Belfast, and 
1 M. by carriage-road from the sea-viewing summit of Mt. Percival. This 
locality was occupied as a Methodist camp-meeting ground in 1848, and 
is still the site of enthusiastic camp-meetings (in August). 

Monhegan (Mrs. W. L. Albee's boarding-house) has a lighthouse (200 
ft. above the sea), a chapel, a schoolhouse, and 90 inhabitants. It covers 
about 1,000 acres (1£ by 1 M.), and has very bold shores, looming nobly 
above the adjacent seas, and several leagues from the nearest point of the 
mainland. Several vessels are owned by the islanders. There is much 
notable scenery here, and very impressive rocky and surf-beaten shores, 
with views from the hills over a vast circuit of blue sea. The Monhegan 
mail-boat sails from Boothbay every Tuesday and Friday ; the Booth- 
bav steamboats often make excursions to it; and Mrs. Albee, on receiv¬ 
ing d* few days’ notice,” will send a boat to the mainland for guests. 
(See also page 316.) 

Squirrel Island ( Chase House, 75 guests) is reached by small steamers, 
running several times daily from Bath, 15 M., through a delightful archi¬ 
pelago, and down deep salt-water fiords, by Westport, Five Islands, and 
other quaint little stopping-places. Boothbay (Boothbay House ; Wey¬ 
mouth), the terminus of the route, is a grav-wharved old fishing-village, 
with a romantic history. Out in its harbor the steamer touches at Capitol 


436 Route 88. 


MAINE COAST. 


Island (Sidney House) and Mouse Island (Samoset House, 150 guests, 
$ 7 -15 a week), small islets favored by many summer-visitors. Squirrel 
Island, 3 M. from Boothbay, and fronting the sea, has 1,000 inhabitants 
in summer, all of them pleasure-seekers, who find rare entertainment in 
boating and fishing, and rambling about the picturesque slioies and 
beaches. The Squirrel-Island Squid is a bright summer newspaper, in 
which the gossip of the place is printed, and the fascinating legends of the 
adjacent coasts. Ocean Point ( Ocea'n-Point House ; Millnoket ), on the 
adjacent main, 6 M. from Boothbay, has many summer-cottages. 

Samoset Island , Sawyer's Island (Sawyer’s-Island House), and other 
localities in this region receive many summer-voyagers. 

The fare from Boston, by boat, to Bath and Boothbay and back, is $ 2 . 50 . 

Fort Popham and Ilunnewell’s Neck, at the mouth of the Kennebec 
(steamboat from Bath), are the sites of new summer-cottage colonies, 'vith 
the Eureka House (75 guests; $7-10 a week) as their centre. Farther 
down, at Small Point , is the Spinney House ($5-7 a week). Mere 
Point , running into the sea below Brunswick, is another newly developed 
resort; and the inns of Harpswell (daily stages from Brunswick), have 
many summer-guests, attracted by the scenery, which Harriet Beecher 
Stowe savs “has more varied and singular beauty than can ordinarily 
be found on the shores of any land whatever.” 

Grand Manan ( Marble-Ridge House, at North Head; and many inex¬ 
pensive boarding-houses), a Canadian island, 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, 
with 3,000 inhabitants, 10 schools, 8 churches, and valuable fisheries, is 
reached by steamboat in 2 hrs. from Kastport, connecting with the Inter¬ 
national steamers. It has wonderful cliff and coast scenery, good trout¬ 
fishing and hunting, many legends, good roads, several quaint hamlets, 
and other interesting objects, which attract numbers of artists here every 
year. It was settled by Loyalists from Massachusetts. 

Campobello (*The Owen; The Tyn-y-Coedd , large and luxurious new 
summer-hotels, built by Boston capital) is a Canadian island, 8 by 3 M. in 
area, with 1,600 inhabitants, two fishing-villages, picturesque beaches, 
headlands, uplands, evergreen forests, and sea-swept coves. The island 
was granted in 1767, by England, to Admiral Owen, whose family occu¬ 
pied the domain for over a century. The traditions of this regime ^re full 
of vivid interest, and meet one at every turn. In 1880 the last of the 
Owens abandoned the manor-house; and the island was purchased by an 
American syndicate, and liberally advertised as a summer-resort, great 
hotels having been built, new roads opened, and cottages erected. Hourly 
steamers run between Campobello and Eastport. 

Matinicus is reached by a weekly packet from Rockland, 20 M. It 
lies far out in the ocean, and includes 800 acres, with 200 inhabitants, most 
of whom are lobstermen. There are 6 smaller islands near by. 


AN 


ITINERARY OF NEW ENGLAND. 


SHOWING THE STATIONS AND DISTANCES ON THE 

CHIEF RAILROADS. 


Boston to Newport and New York. 

Route 3. Page 36. The Old Colony R. R. 

Stations. — Boston to Savin Hill, 3 M. ; Harrison Square, 3J; Neponset, 5; 
Atlantic, 5*; Wollaston, 0*; Quincy, 8; Quincy Adams, 8*; Braintree, 10; S. 
Braintree, 11* (branch to Plymouth, 371); Holbrook, 15; E. Stoughton, 10J; N. 
Bridgewater, 20; Campello, 21*; Matfield, 23J; E. and W. Bridgewater, 25; 
Bridgewater, 27; Titicut, 30 ; Middleboro’, 34; Lakeville, 36; Myrick’s, 42; As* 
sonet, 45; Fall River, 49; Tiverton, 54; Bristol Ferry, 56; Newport, 68; New 
York (by steamer), 230. 


Boston to Duxbury. 

Route 4. Page 48. The Old Colony and S. Shore R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston to Braintree, 10 M.; E. Braintree, 11; Weymouth, 11*; 
N. Weymouth, 13; E. Weymouth, 14*; W. Hingham, 16£; Hingham, 171; 01d 
Colony House, 18; Nantasket, 19 ; Cohasset, 21*; N. Scituate, 23; Egypt, 24; 
Scituate, 26; S. Scituate, 28 ; E. Marshfield, 30; Sea View, 31; Marshfield Centre, 
32; Marshfield, 34; Webster Place, 36; Duxbury, 38; S. Duxbury, 39. 


Boston to Plymouth. 

Route 5. Page 51. Old Colony R. R. 

Stations. — Boston ; S. Braintree, 11* M.; S. Weymouth, 15; N. Abington, 
18; Abington, 19*; S. Abington, 21*; N. Hanson, 23*; Hanson, 24f; Halifax, 
28* ; Plyuipton, 30; Kingston, 33* ; Plymouth, 37*. 


Boston to Cape Cod. 

Route 6. Page 54. Old Colony R. R. 

Stations. —Boston; Middleboro’, 34 M.; Rock, 39; S. Middleboro’, 42; Tre- 
mont, 45 ; S. Wareham, 47 ; Wareham, 49; Agawam, 51; Cohasset Narrows, 54 




438 


ITINERARY. 


(branch to Wood’s Hole, 72); Monument, 55; N. Sandwich, 58; W. Sandwich, 
59; Sandwich, 62; W. Barnstable, 69; Barnstable, 73; Yarmouth, 75 (branch to 
Hyannis, 79); S. Yarmouth, 80; S. Dennis, 81; N. Harwich, 83; Harwich, 84; 
Brewster, 89; E. Brewster, 92; Orleans, 94; Eastham, 97; S. Wellfleet, 103; 
Wellfleet, 106; S. Truro, 109; Truro, 111- N. Truro, 114; Provincetown, 120. 


Boston to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket. 

Route 7. Page 58. Old Colony R. R. and Steamers. 

Stations. —Boston; Cohasset Narrows, 54 M. ; N. Falmouth, 61; W. Fal¬ 
mouth; Falmouth, 68; Wood’s Hole, 71; (steamer to) Martha’s Vineyard, 78; 
(steamer to) Nantucket, 116. 


Boston to Providence and New York. 

Route 8. Page 62. Boston db Providence, Stonington & Providence, New 

Haven, New London <b Stonington, and N. Y. & New Haven R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; Roxbury, 2 M.; Jamaica Plain, 3£; Forest Hill, 5; 
Readville, 8£; Canton, 14; Sharon, 17£; E. Foxboro’, 2l£; Mansfield, 24; W. 
Mansfield, 26; Attleboro’, 31; Dodgeville, 32 ; Pawtucket, 39 ; Providence, 43|; 
Auburn, 49; Hill’s Grove, 53j Greenwich, 58; Wickford, 64; Kingston, 71; 
Carolina, 77 ; Richmond Switch, 80; Niantic, 84; Westerly, 88; Stonington, 94; 
Mystic, 97 ; W. Mystic, 98; Noank, 102; Poquonnock Switch, 103; Groton; New 
London, 106. Shore Line. — Waterford, 109; E. Lyme, 113; S. Lyme, 118; 
Lyme, 122; Conn. River, 123; Saybrook, 125; Westbrook, 128; Clinton, 133; 
Madison, 136; Guilford, 140; Stony Creek, 145; Branford, 148; Fairhaven, 154; 
New Haven, 156. N. Y. & New Haven Division. — West Haven, 158£; Milford, 
165; Naugatuck Junction, 16S; Stratford, 170; Bridgeport, 173; Fairfield, 178; 
Southport, 180; Westport, 184; S. Norwalk, 187 ; Darien, 191; Noroton, 192£; 
Stamford, 195; Cos Cob Bridge, 199 ; Greenwich, 200 ; Port Chester, 203 ; Rye, 
205; Mamaroneck, 208; New Rochelle, 212; Mount Vernon, 215; Williams’ 
Bridge, 218; New York, 230. 


Boston to New Bedford. 

Route 9. Page 90. Boston & Providence and New Bedford R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; Mansfield, 24 M. ; Norton, 28; Crane’s,31; Whittenton, 
34; Taunton, 35; Weir Junction, 36; Middleboro’ Junction, 39; Myrick’s, 41; 
Howland’s, 44; E. Freetown, 46 ; Braley’s, 48 ; Acushnet, 52 ; New Bedford, 55. 


Providence to Worcester. 

Route 10. Page 93. Prov. <0 Wor. R. R. 

Stations. — Providence; Pawtucket, 4 M.; Valley Falls, 6; Lonsdale, 7; 
Ashton, 9^; Albion, 11; Manville, 12; Woonsocket, 16; Waterford, 17; Black- 
stone, 18; Millville, 20 ; Uxbridge, 25; Whitin’s, 26 ; Northbridge, 31; Farnum’s, 
S3; Saundersville, 34; Suttou, 35; Millbury, 37; Worcester Junction, 42; 
Worcester, 43. 


Providence to Hartford and Waterbury. 

Route 11. Page 94. Hartford, Providence, & Fishkill R. R. 

Stations. — Providence; Cranston, 4 M. ; Oak Lawn, 7; Natick, 8; River 
Point, 11 ; Quidnick, 13 ; Washington, 14; Summit, 22; Greene, 24 ; Oneco, 27; 


ITINERARY. 


439 


• 

Sterling, 29 ; Moosup, 32 ; Plainfield, 35 ; Canterbury, 40 ; Baltic, 48 ; Scotland, 
51 ; 8. Windham, 55 ; Willimantic, 58 ; Andover, 67 ; Bolton, 73 ; Vernon, 74 ; 
Manchester, 81 ; E. Hartford, 88; Hartford, 90 ; Newington, 95; New Britain, 89 ; 
Plainville, 104; Forestville, 106; Bristol, 108; Terryville, 112; Hoadley’s, 119; 
Waterville, 121; Waterbury, 123. 


New London to Vermont. 

Route 12. Page 96. New London Northern R. R. 

Stations. —New London ; Waterford, 3; Montville, 6 ; Massapeag, S ; Mohegan, 
10; Thamesville, 12; Norwich, 13; Yantic, 17 ; Franklin, 20; Lebanon, 23; S. 
Windham, 26 ; Willimantic, 30 ; Eagleville, 36 ; Mansfield, 3S ; Merrow, 40 ; Tol¬ 
land, 44 ; Stafford, 50 ; Ellithorpe, 53 ; S. Monson, 60 ; Monson, 61 ; Palmer, 65 ; 
Three Rivers, 68 ; Barrett’s, 70 ; Belchertown, 78 ; Dwight’s, 80 ; Amherst, 85 ; 
Leverett, 90 ; S. Montague, 95 ; Miller’s Falls, 100 ; Nortlifield Farms, 103 ; North- 
field, 109 ; S. Vernon, 111 ; Vernon, 116; Brattleboro’, 121 ; Montpelier, 249 ; Bur¬ 
lington, 289; St. Albans, 306; Montreal, 369. 


Norwich to Nashua. 

Route 13. Page 104. Nor. & Wor. and Wor. Nashua R. Rs. 

Stations. — Norwich ; Greenville, 2; Jewett City, 10; Plainfield Junction, 
16 ; Central Village, 20 ; Wauregan, 21 ; Danielsonville, 26; Daysville, 29; Put¬ 
nam, 34; Thompson, 36 ; Grosvenor Dale, 39 ; N. Grosvenor Dale, 40 ; Webster, 
44 ; N. Webster, 45; Oxford, 49 ; N. Oxford, 51 ; Auburn, 56 ; Worcester Junc¬ 
tion, 59; Worcester, 60 ; W. Boylston, 69 ; Oakdale, 70; Sterling Junction, 72; 
Clinton, 77 ; S. Lancaster, 78 ; Lancaster, 79 ; Still River, 83 ; Harvard, 85 ; Ayer 
Junction, 88 ; Groton, 91 ; Peppered, 96 ; Hollis, 99 ; Nashua, 106. 


Saybrook to Hartford. 

Route 14. Page 106. Conn. Valley R. R. 

Stations. —(Fenwick) Saybrook Point; Junction, 2 M.; Essex, 6J; Deep 
River, 9£; Chester, 11J; Goodspeed’s, 141 ; Arnold's, 17 ; Haddam, 17f; Walkley 
Hill, 19; Higganum, 20); Maromas, 23|; Middletown, 29; Cromwell, 31.); Rocky 
Hill, 36); Wethersfield, 41); Hartford, 44. 


New Haven to Northampton. 

Route 15. Page 108. New Haven <£• Northampton R. R. 

Stations. —New Haven; Ives, 8 M. ; Mt. Carmel, 9; Cheshire, 15; Hitch¬ 
cock’s, 20; Plantsville, 21; Southington, 22; Plainville, 27; Farmington, 31; 
Avon, 37; Simsbury, 42 ; Granby, 47; Southwick, 55 ; Westfield, 61 ; Southamp¬ 
ton, 68; East Hampton, 71; Northampton, 76 (Florence, 79 ; Leeds, 81; Hayden- 
ville, 83; Williamsburg, 84). 


Bridgeport to Winsted. 

Route 16. Page 111. Naugatuck R. R. 

Stations. —Bridgeport; Stratford, 3 M. ; Junction, 4; Derby, 13; Ansonia, 
15; Seymour, 19; Beacon Falls, 23; Naugatuck, 26; Union City, 27; Waterbury, 
32 (Oakville, 35 ; Watertown, 38); Waterville, 34; Plymouth, 41; Camp’s Mills, 
46; Litchfield, 49; Wolcottville, 52; Burrville, 57; Winsted, 61. 


440 


ITINERARY. 


Bridgeport to the Berkshire Hills. 

Route 17. Page 114. Housatonic R. R. 

Stations. — Bridgeport; Stepney, 10 M. ; Botsford, 15; Newtown, 19; Haw- 
leyville, 23 (Shepaug R. R, to Lichfield, 50); Brookfield Junction. 27 (trains to 
Banbury); Brookfield, 29; New Milford, 35 ; Merwinsville, 42 ; Kent, 48; Corn¬ 
wall Bridge, 57; W, Cornwall, 01; Lime Rock, 65 ; Falls Village, 67 ; Canaan, 73; 
Ashley Falls, 75; Sheffield, 79; Barrington, 85; Van Deusenville, 87; Housa¬ 
tonic, 89 ; Glendale, 92 ; Stockbridge, 93 ; S. Lee, 95 ; Lee, 99 ; Lenox Furnace, 
101; Lenox, 102; Bewey’s, 106; Fittsfield, 110. 


S. Norwalk to Danbury. 

Route 18. Page 115. Banbury &' Norwalk R. R. 

Stations. — S. Norwalk; Norwalk, 2 M.; Winnipauk, 3; Wilton, 7; George¬ 
town, 11; Branchville, 13 (branch to Ridgefield); Sanford’s, 15; Reading, 17; 
Bethel, 21; Banbury, 24. 


Boston to New London and New York. 

Route 19. Page 117. New York <£■ New England R. R. <Ss Steamboats. 

Stations. — Boston ; Mt. Bowdoin, 4 M. ; Mattapan, 6 ; Hyde Park, 8; Read- 
ville, 9; Springvale, 11; Ellis’, 13; Norwood, 14; Winslow’s, 16; Walpole, 19; 
Campbell’s, 22; Norfolk, 23; Franklin, 27; Wadsworth’s, 30; Blackstone, 36; 
Millville, 38; Iron Stone, 41; E. Bouglas, 46 ; Bouglas, 48; E. Thompson, 53 (South- 
bridge, 70); Thompson, 57 ; Mechanicsville, 60 ; Putnam, 61 (Willimantic, 86); 
Banielsonville, 69 ; Plainfield Junction, 79; Norwich, 95 ; New London, 108 ; New 
York (by steamer), about 220 M. 


Boston to Woonsocket. 

Stations. — Boston ; Brookline, 4 M. ; Newton Centre, 8 ; Upper Falls, 10 ; 
Highlandville, 11; Needham, 12; Charles River, 14; Bover, 16; Medfield, 19; E. 
Medway, 22 ; Medway, 25; W, Medway, 26; N. Bellingham, 29 ; Bellingham, 32 ; 
Woonsocket, 37). 


Hartford to Salisbury and Millerton. 

Route 20. Page 120. Conn. Western R. R. 

Stations. — Hartford ; Bloomfield, 6 M. ; Scotland; Tariffville, 11 ; Simsbury, 
15; Stratton Brook, 17; Canton, 22; Collinsville, 25; Pine Meadow, 28; New 
Hartford, 29; Winsted, 35; W. Winsted, 37; Grant’s, 41; Norfolk, 45 ; W. Nor¬ 
folk, 48; E. Canaan, 52 ; Canaan, 55; Chapinville, 60; Salisbury, 62; Lakeville. 
64; Ore Hill, 66; P. & E. and N. Y., B. & M. R. Rs. Junction, 67 ; Millerton, 69. 


Boston to Springfield and New York. 

Route 21. Page 124. Boston & Albany and N. Y., N. II. & Spring- 

field R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; Cottage Farm, 3 M. ; Allston, 4; Brighton, 5; Faneuil, 
6; Newton, 7; Newtonville, 8; W. Newton, 9; Auburndale, 10; Riverside, 11; 
Rice Crossing, 12.); Grantville, 13 ; Wellesley, 15 ; Lake Crossing, 16; Natick, 17 ; 
S. Framingham, 21; Ashland, 24; Cordaville, 27; Southville, 28; Westborough, 
32; Grafton, 38; Millbury Junction, 39; Worcester, 44 ; Worcester Junction, 45; 
Rochdale, 53 ; Charlton, 57 ; Spencer, 62; E. Brookfield, 64 ; Brookfield, 67 ; W. 


ITINERARY. 


441 


Brookfield, 69; Warren, 73; W. Warren, 75; Brimfield, 79; Palmer, 83; Wilbra- 
ham,89; Indian Orchard, 92; Springfield, 98; Longmeadow, 102; Thompson ville, 
107; Warehouse Point, 110; Windsor Locks. 112; Windsor, 118; Hartford, 124; 
Newington, 129; Berlin, 135; Meriden, 142; Yalesville, 145; Wallingford, 148; 
N. Haven, 154; New Haven, 160; Bridgeport, 177 ; S. Norwalk, 191; Stamford, 
199; Williams’ Bridge, 222; New York, 234. 


The Berkshire Hills. 

Route 23. Page 142. Boston <£• Albany and Housatonic R. Rs. 

Stations. —Boston ; Becket, 135 M.; Washington, 13S; Hinsdale, 143; Dalton, 
146; Pittsfield Junction, 149; Pittsfield, 151 ; Shaker Village, 154; Richmond, 
159 ; State Line, 162. 

Housatonic R. R. — Pittsfield, 151 M. from Boston ; Dewey’s, 155 ; Lenox, 159; 
Lenox Furnace, 160; Lee, 162; S. Lee, 166; Stockbridge, 168; Glendale, 109; 
Housatonic, 172 ; Van Deusenville, 174; Barrington, 176; Sheffield, 182 ; Ashley 
Falls. 186 ; Canaan, 188. 

Pittsfield & N. Adams Branch. — Pittsfield, 151; Coltsville, 154; Berkshire, 157 ; 
Cheshire, 160; Cheshire Harbor, 163; Maple Grove, 164; S. Adams, 165; N 
Adams, 171. 


New York to Quebec. 

Route 24. Page 157. N. V., N. II. d> Hartford , Conn. River , Cen¬ 
tral Vermont, Passumpsic, and Grand Trunk It. Rs. 

Stations. — New York; Stamford, 34; Bridgeport, 56; New Haven, 74; Hart¬ 
ford, 110; Springfield, 136. Conn. River R. R. —Chicopee Junction, 140; Willi- 
mansett, 143; Holyoke, 144; Smith’s Ferry, 149; Mt. Tom, 151; Northampton, 
153; Hatfield, 157; N. Hatfield, 160; Whately, 162; S. Deerfield, 164; Deerfield, 
169; Greenfield, 172; Bemardston, 179; S. Vernon, 186. Central Vermont R R.— 
Vernon, 191; Brattleboro’, 196; Dummerston, 201; Putney, 205; E. Putney, 208; 
Westminster, 216; Bellows Falls, 222; Charlestown, 230; Springfield, 231; Clare¬ 
mont, 240; Windsor, 248; Hartland, 252; N. Hartland, 256; White River Junc¬ 
tion, 262. Passumpsic R. R. — Norwich, 267; Pompanoosuc, 272 ; Thetford, 277 ; 
N. Thetford, 279; Fairlee, 284; Bradford, 291; S. Newbury, 295; Newbury, 298; 
Wells River, 302; Barnet, 313; Passumpsic, 320; St. Johnsbury, 323; Lyndon- 
ville, 331; W. Burke, 339; Barton, 352; Coventry, 362; Newport, 367; N. Derby, 
372; Smith’s Mills, 377; Massawippi, 388; N. Hatley, 395; Capleton, 398; Len- 
noxville, 404; Sherbrooke, 407. Grand Trunk Railway. — Quebec, 426 (Montreal, 
406). 


Boston to the Hoosac Tunnel. 

Route 25. Page 175. Fitchburg and Vt. & Mass. R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston ; Cambridge, 3; Belmont, 6; Waverly, 7; Waltham, 10; 
Stony Brook, 12; Weston, 13; Lincoln, 17 ; Concord, 20; S. Acton, 25; W. Acton, 
27; Littleton, 31; Ayer Junction, 35; Shirley, 40; Lunenburg, 42; Leominster, 
46; Fitchburg, 50. Vt. & Mass. R. R.—Wachusett, 53; Westminster, 55; Ash- 
burnham, 61 ; Gardner, 65 ; Baldwinville, 71 ; Royalston, 77 ; Athol, 83 ; Orange, 
87; Wendell, 90; Erving, 92; Grout’s Corner, 98; Montague, 102; Greenfield, 106; 
Shelburne Falls, 119; Charlemont, 128; Zoar, 132; Hoosac Tunnel, 136. 


Boston to Burlington and Montreal. 

Route 26. Page 179. Fitchburg, Cheshire, and Central Vt. R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; S. Acton, 25; Fitchburg, 50; W. Fitchburg, 51; West¬ 
minster, 55; S. Ashburnham, 60; N. Ashburnham, 64; Winchendon, 68 (branch 
to Peterboro’, 85); State Line, 71; Fitzwilliam, 77; Troy, 82; Marlboro’, 86; S 


442 


ITINERARY. 


Keene, 00; Keene, 92 (branch to S. Vernon, 116); E. Westmoreland, 100; West¬ 
moreland, 104; Walpole, 110; Cold River, 113; Bellows Falls, 114. Central 
Vermont R. R. — Rockingham, 119; Bartonsville, 123; Chester, 127; Gassett’s, 
132; Cavendish, 136; Proctorsville, 138; Ludlow, 141; Healdville, 147; Summit, 
148; Mt. Holly, 151; E Wallingford, 153; Cuttingsville, 157; Clarendon, 160; 
Rutland, 166; Sutherland Falls, 173; Pittsford, 176; Brandon, 183; Leicester 
Junction, 1SS; Salisbury, 193; Middlebury, 199; Brooksville, 203; New Haven, 
207; Vergennes, 213; Ferrisburgh, 215; N. Ferrisburgli, 218; Charlotte, 222; 
Shelburne, 227; Burlington, 234; Winooski, 237; Essex Junction, 242; St. Al¬ 
bans, 267; Montreal, 337. 


Rutland to Bennington. 

Route 27. Page 184. Harlem Extension R. R. 

Stations. — Rutland; Clarendon, 6 M.; Wallingford, 9; S. Wallingford, 13; 
Danby and Mt. Tabor, 18; N. Dorset, 22; E. Dorset, 25; Manchester, 30; Sun¬ 
derland, 36; Arlington, 39; Shaftesbury, 44; S. Shaftesbury, 49; N. Bennington, 
51; Bennington, 55 (Lebanon Springs, 81; Albany, 136). 


Rutland to Albany. 

Route 28. Page 187. Rensselaer <k Saratoga R. R. 

Stations. — Rutland; Centre Rutland, 2; W. Rutland, 4; Castleton, 11; 
Hydeville, 18; Fairhaven, 21; Whitehall, 29; Comstock’s, 35; Fort Ann, 39; 
Smith’s Basin, 43, Dunham’s Basin, 48; Fort Edward, 51; Gansevoorts, 57; 
Saratoga, 68; Ballston, 74; Mechanicsville, S8; Albany Junction, 94 (Troy, 100); 
Waterford, 98; Cohoes, 98 ; W. Troy, 101; Cemetery, 103; Albany, 107. 

Rutland & Washington Division. — Rutland; Castleton, 11; Poultney,18; Middle 
Granville, 24; Granville, 26; Pawlet, 29; Rupert, 36; Salem, 45; Sliushan, 52; 
Cambridge, 57; Eagle Bridge, 63; Troy, 85. 


Boston to Lowell, Concord, and Montreal. 

Route 29. Page 188. Boston, Lowell, <£• Nashua, Northern (N. II.), 

Central Vt., and Grand Trunk R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; W. Medford, 5 M.; Winchester, 8; E. Woburn, 9 (Stone- 
ham); Wilmington, 15; Billerica, 19; N. Billerica, 22; Lowell, 26; N. Chelms¬ 
ford, 29; Tyngsboro’ and Dunstable, 33; Little's, 39; Nashua, 40; Thornton’s, 
46; Reed’s, 49; Golf’s Falls, 53; Manchester, 57; Martin’s, 62; Ilookset. 66; 
Suncook, 70; Concord, 75. Northern (N. H.) R. R. — Fislierville, 82; Boscawen, 
85; N. Boscawen, 89; Franklin, 94 (branch to Bristol, 107); E. Andover, 100; 
Potter Place, 106; W. Andover, 108; Danbury, 114; Grafton, 119; Canaan, 127; 
Enfield, 134; E. Lebanon, 136; Lebanon, 140; White River Junction, 144. 
Central Vermont R. R. — Woodstock, 143; W. Hartford, 152; Sharon, 157: S. 
Royalton, 162; Royalton, 164; Bethel, 169; Randolph, 176; Braintree, 182; 
Roxbury, 191; Nortlifield, 198; Montpelier Junction, 207 (Montpelier, 208); 
Middlesex, 212; Waterbury, 217; Bolton, 225; Jonesville, 227; Richmond, 231 ; 
Williston, 236; Essex Junction, 240 (Burlington, 248); Colchester, 244; Milton, 
251; Georgia, 255; St. Albans, 265; E. Swanton, 274; Higligate Springs, 278; 
Province Line, 282; St. Armand, 283; Moore’s. 286; Standbridge, 290; Des 
Rivieres, 292; St. Alexandre, 299; St. John’s, 308. Grand Trunk Railway. — La- 
cadie, 315 ; Brousseau’s, 323 ; St. Lambert, 328; Montreal, 335. 

Nashua to Wilton. Page 192. 

Nashua; S. Merrimack, 5 M.; Amherst, 8; Milford, 11; Wilton, 15; Lynde- 
boro’, 19 ; Greenfield, 26. 


ITINERARY. 


443 


Concord to Claremont. Page 196. 

Concord ; W. Concord, 34 ; Mast Yard, 8 ; Contoocook, 12 (Henniker, 20 ; Hills¬ 
boro’Bridge, 27); Dimond’s Comer, 14* ; Warner, 184; Waterloo, 21; Roby’s 
Corner, 23; Melvin’s Mills, 25; Bradford, 274; Newbury, 34; Chandler’s, 364; 
Sunapee, 40 ; Newport, 43; Northville, 46 ; lvellyville, 48; Claremont, 544 ; Clare¬ 
mont Junction, 56j. 


St. Albans to Richford. Page 206. 

St. Albans; Sheldon, 10 ; N. Sheldon, 13 ; E. Franklin, 15; Enosburgh Falls, 
18; E. Berkshire, 24; Richford, 28. 


Boston to the Franconia Mts. 

Route 30. Page 209. Boston, Loivell <£ Nashua, and Boston, Concord & 

Montreal R. Rs. 

Stations. — Boston; Lowell, 26; Nashua, 40; Manchester, 57; Concord, 75. 
B., C. & M. R. R. — E. Concord, 77 ; Canterbury, 85 ; Northlield, 88 ; Tilton, 93 ; 
Union Bridge, 97 ; Laconia, 102 ; Lake Village, 104 ; Weirs, 108 ; Meredith, 112 ; 
Ashland, 120 ; Plymouth, 126 ; Rumney, 134; W. Rumney, 137; Wentworth, 142 ; 
Warren, 146; E. Haverhill, 154; Haverhill, 159; N. Haverhill, 164; Woodsville, 
168 ; Wells River, 168 ; Bath, 173 ; Lisbon, 178 ; N. Lisbon, 183 ; Littleton, 188 ; 
Wing Road, 195 (Bethlehem, 200; Twin Mt. House, 204; Fabyan House, 209); 
Whitefield, 200; Dalton, 203; S. Lancaster, 206; Lancaster, 210; Northumber¬ 
land Falls, 215; Northumberland, 220. 


Boston to the White Mountains. 

Route 31. Page 213. Eastern R. R. 

Stations. —Boston; Salem, 16 M. ; Newburyport, 36 ; Portsmouth, 56 ; Con¬ 
way Junction, 67 ; S. Berwick, 69; Salmon Falls, 70 ; Great Falls, 73 ; Rochester, 
79; Hayes, 84; S. Milton, 85; Milton, 87; Union, 93; Wolfboro’Junction, 97 
(Wolfboro’, 108) ; Wakefield, 99 ; E. Wakefield, 103 ; N. Wakefield, 106 ; Ossipee 
111; Centre Ossipee, 115 ; W. Ossipee, 121 ; Madison, 125 ; Conway, 132 ; N. Con¬ 
way, 137. 


Portland to Rochester. 

Page 213. P. & R. R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Morrill’s, 2 M. ; Cumberland Mills, 5; Sacarappa, 6 ; 
Gorham, 10; Buxton Centre, 15; Saco River, IS; Hollis Centre, 20; Centre 
Waterboro’, 25; S. Waterboro’, 28; Alfred, 32; Springvale, 36; E. Lebanon, 44; 
E. Rochester, 49 ; Rochester, 52. 


Boston to Cape Ann. 

Route 36. Page 245. Eastern R. R. 

Stations. —Boston; Beverly, IS M.; Beverly Farms; Manchester, 24; Glou¬ 
cester, 33 ; Rockport, 36. 


Boston to Portland. 

Route 37. Page 248. Eastern R. R. 

Stations. — Boston ; Somerville, 2; Everett; Chelsea, 4 ; Revere, 5; Lynn. 
11; Swampseott, 12; Salem, 16; Beverly, 18; N. Beverly, 20; Wenham and 
Hamilton, 22; Ipswich, 27; Rowley, 31; Newburyport, 36; Salisbury, 38; Sea- 



444 


ITINERARY. 


brook, 42; Hampton, 46 ; N. Hampton, 49 ; Greenland, 51 ; Portsmouth, 56 Kit- 
tery, 574 ; Elliot, 63 ; Conway Junction, 67; S. Berwick Junction, 70; Is. Berwick, 
74 ; Wells, 80 ; Kennebunk, 85; Kennebunkport, 89; Biddeford, 93 ; Saco, 94^; 
W. Scarboro’, 99 ; Bear boro’, 101; Cape Elizabeth, 106; Portland, 108. 


Salem to Lowell. 

Page 255. Salem <£• Lowell R. R. 

Stations. — Salem ; Carltonville, 1 M.; Peabody, 2 ; Proctor’s Corner, 4; W. 
Danvers, 5; Phelps Mills, 6; Paper Mills, 8 ; N. Reading, 10; Wilmington, 14; 
Wilmington Junction, 15; Burtt’s, 16; TewKsbury J unction, 18; Tewksbury, 19; 
Mace’s, 21; Bleacliery, 23; Lowell, 24. 


Portsmouth to Concord. 

Page 267. Portsmouth R. R. 

Stations. — Portsmouth ; Greenland, 4 M. ; Stratham ; New Market Junction, 
10; Littlefield's; Epping, 18; W. Epping; Raymond, 23; Candia, 29; Auburn, 
33; Massabesic, 36; Manchester, 41 ; Hooksett, 51; Concord, 59. 


Boston to Portland. 

Route 38. Page 275. Boston <£? Maine R. R. 

Stations. — Boston; Charlestown, 1 M.; Somerville, 2; Medford Junction, 
4 (Medford, 5); Malden, 5; Wyoming, 6; Melrose, 7 ; Stoneham, 8; Greenwood, 
9; Wakefield Junction, 10; Wakefield, 10?. ; Reading, 12 ; Wilmington Junction, 
18; Ballardvale, 21 ; Andover, 23; S. Lawrence, 26; N. Lawrence, 27 ; N. Ando¬ 
ver, 28; Bradford, 32; Haverhill, 33 ; Atkinson, 37; Plaistow, 38; Newton, 41 ; 
E. Kingston Depot, 45; Exeter, 51; S. Newmarket, 55; Newmarket Junction, 
5S ; Bennett Road, 60; Durham, 62; Madbury, 64; Dover, 68; Rollinsford, 71 
(Great Falls, 73); Salmon Falls, 72; B. Berwick Junction, 74; N. Berwick, 78; 
Wells, 85; Kennebunk, 90 ; Biddeford, 99; Baco, 100; Old Orchard Beach, 104; 
Blue Point; Scarboro’, 109; Lygonia ; Portland, 116. 

Lawrence to Manchester. Page 279. 

Stations. — Lawrence; Methuen, 2 M. ; Messers, 3; Salem, 7; Windham, 12; 
Derry, 15 ; Wilson’s, 18; Londonderry, 20 ; Manchester, 26. 

Lawrence to Jjowell. Page 279. 

Stations. — N. Lawrence ; S. Lawrence, 1 M. ; naggett’s Pond, 4 ; Tewksbury 
Junction, 7 ; Tewksbury, 8 ; Mace’s, 10; Bleacliery, 12 ; Lowell, 13. 

Haverhill to Newbury port. Page 280. 

Stations. — Haverhill; Bradford, 4> Haverhill Bridge, li; Groveland, 44; 
Georgetown, 7^; Byfield, 104; Newburyport, 164. 

Wakefield to Newburyport. Page 276. 

Boston ; Wakefield Junction, 10 M.; Lynnfield Centre, 13; W. Danvers, 16; Dan¬ 
vers, 19; Topsfield, 25; Boxford, 28; Georgetown, 31; Byfield, 34 ; Newburyport, 40. 

Dover to iMke Winnepesaukee. Page 282. 

Boston ; Dover, 68 M. ; Gonic, 76; Rochester, 78 ; Place’s, 82; Farmington, 86; 
Davis’, 90; New Durham, 92; Alton, 95; Alton Bay, 96. 


Portland to the White Mountains. 

Route 39. Page 284. Portland <(■ Ogdenshurg R. R. 
Stations. — Portland ; Westbrook, 5 M. ; S. Windham, 11; White Rock, 13?; 


ITINERARY. 


445 


Sebago Lake, 16|; Steep Falls, 24); Baldwin, 30; W. Baldwin, 33^; Hiram Bridge, 
36; Brownfield, 43; Fryeburg, 49; Conway Centre, 65; N. Conway, 60 ; Glen Road, 
66 ; Upper Bartlett, 72; Benns, 80. 


Portland to Quebec and Montreal. 

Route 40. Page 287. Grand Trunk Railvmy. 

Stations. — Portland; Falmouth, 5 M.; Cumberland, 9; Yarmouth, 11; Yar¬ 
mouth Junction, 12; Pownal, 18; New Gloucester, 22; Danville Junction, 27 ; 
Mechanic Falls, 36; Oxford, 41 ; S. Paris, 47; W. Paris, 55; Locke’s Mills, 65; 
Bethel, 70; Gilead, 80; Shelburne, 86; Gorham, 91; Berlin Falls, 98; Milan, 103; 
Groveton (Northumberland), 122; N. Stratford, 134; Wenlock, 142; Island Pond, 
149; Norton Mills, 166; Coatieooke, 175; Richby, 179; Compton, 183 ; Lennox- 
ville, 193; Sherbrooke, 196; Windsor, 211 ; Richmond, 221 (Quebec Branch); New 
Durham, 231 ; Acton, 243; Upton, 249 ; Britannia Mills, 255 ; St. Hyacinthe, 262; 
Soixante, 269; St. Hilaire, 275; St. Bruno, 282; St. Hubert, 287; St. Lambert, 
292; Montreal, 297. 

Quebec Branch. Page 290. 

Portland; Richmond, 221 M. ; Danville, 233; Warwick, 246; Arthabaska, 253; 
Stanfold, 262; Somerset, 268 ; Becancour, 276; Lyster, 280 ; Methot’s Mills, 289 ; 
Black River. 297; Craig’s Road, 302 ; Chaudiere Curve, 309; Hadlow, 315 ; Quebec 
(Point Levi), 317. 


Portland to Farmington. 

Route 41. Page 291. Androscoggin Division, Eastern & Maine Cen¬ 
tral R. R. 

Stations. —Portland: Brunswick, 29 M. ; Lisbon Falls, 37; Lisbon, 41; 
Crowley’s, 43 (Lewiston, 48); Sabattisville, 48; Leeds Junction, 55; Curtis Cor¬ 
ner, 60 ; Leeds Centre, 62; N. Leeds, 65; Strickland’s Ferry, 67 ; E. Livermore, 
70; Livermore Falls, 75 ; Jay Bridge, 77 ; N. Jay, 81; Wilton, 84 ; E. Wilton, 87 ; 
Farmington, 92 (Rangely Lakes, 132 M.). 


Portland to the Upper Kennebec. 

Route 42. Page 293. E. db M. C. R. R. 

Stations. —Portland; Brunswick, 29; Gardiner, 56; Waterville, 81 ; Fair- 
field, 84; Pishon Ferry, 92 ; Skowhegan, 100. 


Bangor to Guilford. 

Page 295. Bangor <b Piscataquis R. R. 

Stations. — Bangor; Oldtown, 12); Pea Cove, 17; Bennoch Road, 191; Al¬ 
ton, 21 ; Penny’s, 25 ; S. Lagrange, 27 ; Lagrange, 31 ; Orneyville, 34 ; Milo, 40; 
S. Sebec, 45.); E. Dover, 50; Dover and Foxcroft, 521; Low’s Bridge, 57; Sanger- 
ville, 59); Guilford, 61. 


Portland to Rockland. 

Route 44. Page 297. Maine Central and Knox <L % Lincoln R. Rs. 

Stations. — Portland; Brunswick, 29; Bath, 42; Woolwich, 43. Knox & 
Lincoln R. R. — Nequasset, 45 ; Montsweag, 48) ; Wisoasset, 53 ; New Castle and 
Damarisc.otta, 60; Damariscotta Mills, 62; Nobleboro’, 65; Winslow’s Mills, 70; 
Waldoboro’, 72; Warren, 79; Georges River, 84$ ; Thomaston, 87 ; Rqpkland, 91. 


446 


ITINERARY. 


Portland to Lewiston and Bangor. 

Route 46. Page 307. Eastern <£? Maine Central R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Cumberland, 12; New Gloucester; Danville Junction, 
29 ; Auburn, 33; Lewiston, 35 ; Greene, 43 ; Leeds, 40; Monmouth, 49 ; Winthrop, 
55 ; Readfleld, 01; Belgrade, 09 ; West Waterville, 78; Waterville, 84 ; Burnham, 
97 ; Newport, 111; Bangor, 138. 


Portland to Augusta and Bangor. 

Route 47. Page 309. Eastern <0 Maine Central R. R. 

Stations. — Portland; Woodford’s; Westbrook, 5; Cumberland, 12; Yar¬ 
mouth. 17 ; Freeport, 22; Oak Hill; Brunswick 29; Topsham; Bowdoinham ; 
Richmond, 40; Gardiner, 56; Hallowell, 61; Augusta, 03 ; Riverside, 75 ; Vas- 
salboro’; Winslow, 81; Waterville, 84; Benton, 87; Clinton, 92; Burnham, 97 ; 
Pittsfield, 104; Detroit; Newport, 111; E. Newport; Etna, 119; Carmel. 123; 
Hermon Pond, 128 ; Bangor, 138. 


Bangor to St. John. 

Route 49. Page 318. European <0 North American R. R. 

Stations. — Bangor; Veazie, 5; Basin Mills,71; Sidney,8; Orono, 8\ ; Web¬ 
ster, 8.'.; Great Works, 111; Oldtown, 12 V; Milford, 13; Costigan, 18; Green- 
bush, 23; Olamon, 27; Passadumkeag, 30; Enfield, 30; Lincoln, 45; Lincoln 
Centre, 4(5; Winn, 56 ; Mattawamkeag, 58; Kingman, 66; Bancroft, 79 ; Danforth, 
8S; Jackson Brook, 93; Eaton, 102; Wilderness, 107 ; Lambert Lake, 109; Vance- 
boro, 114; St. Croix, 115; McAdam Junction, 120; Maguadavick, 129; Harvey, 
139; Cork, 144; Tracy, 156; Fredericton Junction, 160; Blissville, 164; Hoyt, 
167; Enniskillen, 170; Gaspereaux, 173; Clarendon, 176 ; Welsford, 180 ; Nerepis, 
186; Westfield, 190; Grand Bay, 194; Sutton, 198; South Bay 199; Fairville, 
202 ; Carleton, 205 ; St. John, 206. 


The New Brunswick Border. 

Route 50. Page 321. New Brunswick A- Canada R. R. 

Stations. — St. Andrews ; Chamcook, 5 M. ; Bartlett’s, 11; Waweig, 13 ; Roix 
Road, 15; Hewitt’s, 19; Rolling Dam, 20; Dumbarton, 24; Watt Junction, 27 
(branch to Meadows, from Watt, 4 M.; Moore’s Mills, 11; Maxwell, 14; St. Ste¬ 
phens and Calais, 19); Lawrence, 29; Barber Dam, 34; McAdam Junction, 43; 
Deer Lake, 59; Canterbury, 65; Benton, 75; Wickham, 80 ; Debec Junction, 83 
(Greenville, 87 ; Iloulton, 91) ; Hodgdon, 91 ; Woodstock, 94. 


Worcester to Mount Wachusett. 

Boston, Barre A’ Gardner R. R. 

Stations. — Worcester; Lincoln Square, 1 M. ; Barbers, 3 ; N. Worcester, 41; 
Chaffin’s, 6; Holden, 8; Jefferson’s, 91; North Woods, 11; Brook, 13; Prince¬ 
ton, 16 ; Hubbardston, 20 ; Waites, 23 ; Gardner, 26 ; Winchendon, 36. 


Montpelier to Wells River. 

Page 200. M. <£• W. R. R. R. 

Stations. — Montpelier ; E. Montpelier, 6 M. ; Plainfield, 10; Marshfield, 151; 
Kinney’s Mills, 171; Summit, 20; Peabody Station, 211; Ricker’s Mills, 25; 
Groton, 28$; S. Ryegate, 32 ; Boltonville, 341 ? Wells River, 38. 


ITINERARY. 


447 


W. Concord to Hyde Park. 

Portland and Ogdensburgh It. R. 

Stations. — W. Concord ; E. St. Johnsbury, 4 M.; St. Jolmsbury, 8; Danville, 
20; W. Danville, 23 ; Walden, 28 ; Greensboro, 36; E. Hardwick, 30; Hardwick, 
43 ; Wolcott, 49 ; Morrisville, 57 ; Hyde Park, 60. 


New York to Albany. 

Route 52. Page 340. The Hudson River R. R. or Steamboats. 

Stations. — Grand Central Depot; Spuyten Duyvil, 11 M.; Riverdale, 12; 
Mt. St. Vincent, 13 ; Yonkers, 14.}; Hastings, 19 ; Dobbs’ Ferry, 20 ; Irvington, 
22; Tarrytown (and Nyack), 25; Scarborough, 29; Sing Sing, 30; Croton, 34; 
Cruger’s, 37 ; Montrose, 38 ; Peekskill, 41; Fort Montgomery, 45 ; Garrison’s (West 
Point), 49; Cold Spring, 52; Cornwall Station, 54; D. & C. Junction, 57; Fish- 
kill (Newburgh), 58; Low Point, 62; New Hamburgh, 64; Milton Ferry, 69; 
Poughkeepsie, 73 ; Hyde Park, 78 ; Staatsburgh, 83 ; Rhinebeck, 8S ; Barrytown, 
94; Tivoli, 98; Germantown, 104; Livingston, 107 ; Catskill Station, 109; Hud¬ 
son, 114 ; Stockport, 118 ; Coxsackie, 121 ; Stuyvesant, 123; Schodaek, 129; Cas- 
tleton, 133; E. Albany, 141}; Albany 142; Troy, 148. 


Albany to Montreal. 

Route 53. Page 350. Rensselaer c£* Saratoga and Central Vt. R. Rs. 

Stations. — Albany ; Cemetery, 4 M. ; W. Troy, 6; Cohoes, 9 ; Waterford, 11; 
Junction 12 (here the Albany Division joins the main line, coming from Troy, 6 

M. distant); Meehanicsville, 18; Round Lake, 24; Ballston, 32; Saratoga, 38; 
Gansevooi’t’s, 49 ; Moreau, 54 ; Fort Edward, 55 (branch to Glen’s Falls, in 6 M.) ; 
Dunham’s Basin, 58 ; Smith’s Basin, 63 ; Fort Ann, 67 ; Comstock’s, 71 ; White¬ 
hall (Junction, 77 ; Lake Champlain, 79); Fairhaven, 85; Hydeville, 88; Castle- 
ton, 95; W T . Rutland, 102 ; Centre Rutland, 104 ; Rutland, 106. Stations on the 
Central Vermont R. R. — Rutland, 106 M. from Albany; Sutherland Falls, 113; 
Pittsford, 116 ; Brandon, 123; Leicester Junction, 128; Salisbury, 133; Middle- 
bury, 139 ; Brooksville, 143 ; New Haven, 147 ; Vergennes, 153; Ferrisburgh, 155 ; 

N. Ferrisburgh, 158 ; Charlotte, 162 ; Shelburne, 167 ; Burlington, 174 ; Winooski, 
177; Essex Junction, 182; Colchester, 186; Milton, 193 ; Georgia, 197; St. Al¬ 
bans, 207 ; St. John’s, 250 ; Montreal, 277. 


t 







See also Supplementary Index, on pages 458 and 459 


INDEX. 


Abington. Mass. 51. 

Acton, Mass. 126. 

Adams, Mt. 236. 

Addison, Vt. 1S4. 
Adirondack^, Routes to 
the 357, 364, 365, 367 
Agamcnticus, Mt 267. 
Albany Basins, Me. 288. 
Albany, N. Y. 348, 142. 
Alburgh Springs, Vt. 207. 
Alfred, Me. 213. 

Alton Bay, N. H. 218, 282. 
Amherst, Mass. 100, 162. 
Amherst, X. H, 192, 
Ammonoosuc Falls 233. 
Andover, Mass. 276. 
Annandale, X. Y. 347. 
Annisquam, Mass. 247. 
Anson, Me. 294. 

Ansonia, Conn. 111. 
Anthony’s Nose 344, 360. 
Arlington, Vt. 185. 
Arrowsio, Me. 297. 
Arthabaska, Can. 290. 
Arthur’s Seat, Mass. 178. 
Artists’ Falls. X. H. 225. 
Artists’ Ledge, X. II. 225. 
Ascutney, Mt. 166. 
Ashbnmham, Mass. 177. 
Ashford, Conn. 11S. 
Ashland. X. LI. 210. 

Ashley Falls, Mass. 115. 
Assowamsett Pond 54. 
Athens, X. Y. 348. 

Auburn, Me. 308. 

Augusta, Me. 311. 

Au Sable Chasm 367. 

Avon, Conn. 109. 

Ayer June., Mass. 176,105. 
Aylmer Lake, Can. 290. 

Bald Head Cliff, Me. 267. 
Bald Mt., X. H. 239. 
Baldwin, Me. 285. 
Ballardvale, Mass. 276. 
Ballston Spa, N. Y 350. 
Bangor, Me. 315. 31S. 
Bantam Lake, Conn. 112. 


Bar Harbor, Me. 303, 304. 
Barnet, Vt. 169. 

Barton, Vt. 171. 

Bash Bish Falls 122, 153. 
Basin, the 240. 

Bath, Me. 297. 

Bath, X. H. 211. 

Bay, Belfast 317. 

Boston 20. 

Burlington 365. 
Buzzard’s 58, 92. 

Casco 274. 

Frenchman’s 304. 

Fundy 321. 

Ha Ha 3S6, 

Missisquoi 207. 
Narragansett 65. 
Narraguagus 307. 

New York 48, 329. 
Passamaquoddy 322. 
Penobscot 302, 316 
St. Albans 205. 

Bay View, Mass. 247. 
Bearcamp, N. H. 220 
Becket, Mass. 143. 
Beecher’s Falls, N, H. 232. 
Beech Mt., Me. 306. 
Belehertown, Mass. 100. 
Belfast, Me. 317. 

Bellows Falls, Vt. 164, 181. 
Beleeil Mt., Can. 208. 
Bennington, Vt. 186. 
Berkshire Hills 142. 
Berkshire Soda Springs, 
Mass. 152. 

Berlin, Conn. 140. 

Berlin Falls, X. II. 289. 
3ernardston, Mass. 164. 
Berrv Pond, Mass. 145. 
Bethel, Me. 288. 

Bethel. Vt. 200. 

Bethlehem. X. II. 234. 
Beverly, Mass. 245, 256. 
Biddeford, Me. 269, 283. 
Billerica, Mass. 189. 
Billington Sea 53. 
Birmingham, Conn. 111. 
Black River Falls 165, 181. 


Black Rock, Conn. 85. 
Blackstone, Mass. 93,117. 
Blackwell’s Id., N. Y. 47 

Bloody Brook, Mass. 162. 
Blue Hill, Mass. 37, 62. 
Blue Hill, Me. 303. 

Boar’s Head, X. H. 262. 
Bolton Falls, Vt. 204. 
Bolton Notch, Conn. 94. 
Bolton, N. Y. 359. 

Boone Id., Me. 267. 
Boothbay, Me. 299, 425. 
Boscawen, X. H. 197. 
Boston, Mass. 5. 
Athenaeum 17 
Cathedral 20. 

Christ Church 10. 

City Hall 11. 

Common 15. 

Copp’s Hill 9. 

Custom House 10. 
Faneuil Hall 10 
First Church 16. 
Horticultural Hall 13. 
Hospital 19. 

King’s Chapel 13. 

Museum 15. 

Music Hall 13. 

Natural History Build 
ing 16. 

New Post-Office 12. 

Odd Fellows Hall 19. 
Old South Church 11. 
Old State House 10. 
Public Gardens 16. 

State House 17. 

U. S. Court House 13. 
Boston Light 23. 
Boterberg, N. Y. 345. 

Bowdoin College 310. 
Boxford, Mass. 276. 
Bradford, Mass. 280. 
Bradford, X. II. 196. 
Braintree, Mass. 38. 
Braintree, Vt. 200. 







450 


INDEX. 


Brandon, Vt. 1S2. 

Branford, Conn. 76. 

Brattle boro’, Vt. 108. 
Breakneck Hill 345. 
Brewster, Mass, 56. 
Bridgeport, Conn. 85, 111. 

Bridgton, Me. 285. 
Bridport, Vt. 184. 
Brighton, Mass, 35, 124. 
Brimfield, Mass. 130,09,117 
Bristol, Me. 299. 

Bristol, N. H. 198. 

Bristol, R. I. 66. 

Bristol, Vt. 184. 

Brookfield, Conn. 114. 
Brookfield, Mass. 130. 
Brookline, Mass. 35. 
Brooklyn, Conn/118. 
Brooklyn, N. Y. 4S, 339. 
City Hall. 339. 

Cypress Hills 340. 
Greenwood 340. 

Navy Yard 339. 

Prospect Park 339, 
Brownfield, Me. 285. 
Brown University 64. 
Brunswick, Me. 297, 309. 
Bryant’s Pond, Me. 288, 
Buckland, Mass. 178a, 
Bueksport, Me. 318. 
Bunker Hill, 25. 
Burlington, Vt. 184, 365. 
Burnham, Me. 314. 
Burnside, Conn. 94. 

Buxton, Me. 213. 

Buzzards Bay 58, 92. 

Caoouna, Can, 385. 

Calais, Me. 322. 

Caldwell, N. Y. 357. 
Cambridge, Mass, 29. 
Camden, Me. 317. 

Camel’s Hump Mt., Vt. 203. 
Camel’s Rump Mt.,Me.289. 
Campo Bello Id., X. B.322. 
Campton, N. H. 242. 
Canaan, Conn, 115. 
Canaan, N. H. 198. 

Canton. Me. 287. 

Cap Rouge, Can. 383. 

Cap Tourmente, Can. 385, 
Cape Ann, 245. [402. 

Cod 54. 

Elizabeth, Me. 273. 
Eternity, Can. 386. 
Neddick, Me. 267. 
Porpoise, Me. 268. 
Rosier, Me. 303. 

Trinity, Can. 386. 
Carolina, R. I. 70. 


Casco Bay 274, 

Castine, Me. 302, 317. 
Castle Id., Mass. 22. 
Castleton, Vt. 187. 
Cathedral Ledge 224. 
Catskill Mts., N. Y. 347. 
Cave, Arlington 1S5. 
Clarendon 182. 

Dorset 185- 
Salisbury 123. 

Cedarmere, L. I. 340. 
Centre Harbor, N, H. 216, 
Chabonakongkomon Lake 
104. 

Chambly, Can. 208. 
Champlain, Lake 361. 
Charlemont, Mass. 17 R a. 
Cliarlesbourg, Can. 384. 
Charles Id., Conn. 84. 
Charlestown, Mass. 24. 
Charlestown, N. H. 165. 
Ch&teau Bigot, Can. 884. 
Chateau Richer, Can. 385. 
Chatham, N. Y. 142. 
Chaudi£re Falls 383. 
Chelsea, Mass. 27, 249. 
Cheshire, Conn. 109. 
Cheshire, Mass. 153. 
Chester, Vt. 181. 
Chesterfield, N. H. 103, ISO. 
Chestnut Hill, Mass. 35. 
Chesuncook Lake, 296. 
Chicopee, Mass. 157. 
Chicoutimi, Can. 386. 
China, Me. 313. 

Chocorua, Mt. 214, 215, 221. 
Claremont, N. II. 197. 
Clarendon Springs 182, 187. 
Clear Stream Meadows 244. 
Clermont, N. Y. 347. 
Clinton, Mass. 105, 126. 
Clinton, Mt. 235. 

Cohasset, Mass. 48. 

Cohoes, N. Y. 350. 
Colchester, Vt. 204. 

|Cold Spring, N. Y. 345. 
'Colebrook, N. H. 243, 289. 
Coleraine Gorge 178. . 
Collinsville, Conn. 109. 
Columbia. Springs 348. 
Concord, Mass. 28. 
Concord, N. H. 194. 

Coney Id., N. Y. 340. 
Connecticut Lake 245. 

Conway, N. II. 214. 
Conway June., Me. 268, 
Copple Crown Mt. 218. 
Cornwall, Conn. 115. 

Cotuit Port, Mass. 55. 
Cranston, R. I. 65. 
Crawford House 230. 231. 
Croton River, N. Y. 343 


Crown Point, N. Y. 364, 
188. 

Croydon, N. II. 197. 
Crystal Cascade, N. II. 227. 
'Crystal Lake, Vt. 171. 
Cummington, Mass. 110. 
Cushing’s Id , Me. 274. 
Cuttyhunk Id., Mass. 92. 

Dalton, Mass. 144. 

Dalton, N. H. 212. 
Damariscotta, Me. 299. 
Danbury, Conn. 116. 
j Danielsonville, Conn. 118. 

I Danville, Can. 290. 

I Danville June., Me. 287. 

: Dartmouth College 166. 
Dartmouth. Mass. 92. 
Daysville, Conn. 118. 
Debec, N. B. 323. 

Dedham, Mass. 117. 
'Deerfield Gorge 17Sa. 
Deerfield, Mass. 163. 

!Deer Id., Mass. 20. 

Deer Isle, Me. 303. 
Denmark, Me. 285. 

Derby, Conn. 111. 

Derry, N. H. 279. 

Devil’s Dance Chamber 346 

Diamond Id., Me. 274. 
Diamond Id., N. II. 217. 
Diamond Id., N. Y. 35S. 
[Dighton, Mass, 39. 

Dix Id., Me. 301, 332. 
^Dixville Notch, N. H. 243 
[Dobbs’ Ferry, N. Y. 342. 
Dome Id., N. Y. 359. 
Dorchester, Mass. 36. 
Double Beach, Conn. 77. 
Dover, Me. 295. 

Dover, N. H. 281. 

Duck Id., N. H. 266. 
Dunderberg, N. Y. 343. 
Dun more Lake, Vt. 183. 
Durham, N. II. 281. 
Duxbury, Mass. 50. 

Eagle Cliff, N. H. 239. 
Eagle Lake, Me. 305. 

|E. Andover, N. H. 198. 

E. Hartford, Conn.94,139b 
E. Haven, Conn, 77. 

E. Rock, Conn. 83. 

Eastern Townships, Can. 
174. 

Eastham, Mass. 56. 
Easthampton, Mass. 110. 
Eastport, Me. 322. 

Echo Lakes, 225, 238. 
Edgartown, Mass. 60. 
Egremont, Mass. 153. 
Elgin Spring, Vt. 184. 







INDEX. 


4^1 


Elliot, Me. 268. 

Ellsworth, Me. 818. 

Enfield, Conn. 133. 

Enfield, N. H. 198. 
Englewood, N. J. 341. 
Errol, N. H. 244, 289. 

Essex June., Vt. 204. 

Essex, Mass. 257. 

Essex, N. Y. 365. 

Everett, Mass. 249. 

Exeter, N. H. 280, 

Fabvan House, N. H. 233, 
234. 

Fairfax, Vt. 204. 

Fairfield, Conn. 86. 
Fairhaven, Conn. 83. 

Fai rhaven, M ass. 91. 
Fairhaven, Vt. 188. 

Fairlee, Vt. 168. 

Fall River, Mass. 39. 

Falls, Artists’ 225. 

Falls Village, Conn. 115. 
Bash Bish 122, 153. 
Bei’lin 229. 

Black River 165, 181. 
Bolton 204. ' 

Chaudiere 3S3. 

15 Mile 169. 

Foxwell's 283. 
Georgeanna 241. 

Gibbs’s 232. 

Glen Ellis 227. 

Glens 356. 

Goodrich 225. 

Grand 323, 385. 

Grand Mere 374. 
Housatonic 115. 

Jackson 226. 

Livermore 210. 

Lower Ammonoosuc 233. 
Montmorenci 384. 
Norton’s 122. 

Rum ford 288. 

Saco 269. 

Screw Auger 289. 
Shawanegan 374. 

Ste. Anne 384. 

St. Fereol 385. 

Sutherland 182. 
Thompson’s 226. 

Turner’s 178 
Yantic 96. 

Falmouth, Mass. 58. 
Farmington, Conn. 109. 
Farmington, Me. 291. 
Farmington, N. H. 282. 
Ferrisburgh, Vt. 184. 
Fisher’s Id., N. Y. 73. 
Fisherville, N. H. 197. 
Fishkill-on-the-Hudson 345' 
Fitchburg, Mass. 176. 
Fitzwilliam, N. H. 179. 


Florence, Mass. 110, 160. 
Flume, the, N. H. 240. 
Flume, the, Vt. 171. 
Flushing, L. I. 47, 340. 
Forest Hills, 35. 

Fort Ann, N. Y. 356. 
Clinton, N. Y. 344. 
Edward, N. Y. 355. 
Fairfield, Me. 323 
Halifax, Me. 314 
Hill, Conn. 72. 

Kent, Me. 324. 

Lee, N. Y. 341. 
Massachusetts 156. 
Montgomery (new) 207. 
Montgomery (old) 344. 
Point, Me. 317. 

Preble, Me. 274. 
Ticonderoga 183, 362. 
Warren, Mass. 23. 
Washington, N. Y. 341. 
William Henry 356. 
Wooster, Conn. 83. 
14-Mile Id.. N. Y. 359. 
Foxcroft, Me. 295. 
Framingham, Mass. 126. 
Francestown, N. H. 192. 
Franconia Mts. 238. 
Franklin, Mass. 117. 
Franklin, Mt. 236. 
Franklin, N. II. 197. 
Fredericton, N. B. 319. 
Freeport, Me. 309. 

Fresh Pond, Mass. 34. 
Fryeburg, Me. 285. 

Gagetown, N. B. 320. 
Gardiner, Me. 311. 

Gardner, Mass. 177. 

Garnet Pools, N. II. 227. 
Gaspee Point, R. I. 65. 

Gay Head, Mass. 60. 
Georgeanna Falls, 241. 
George, Lake 357. 
Georgetown, Mass. 276. 
Georgetown, Me. 297. 
Georgeville, Can. 173. 
Georgia, Vt. 204. 

Giant’s Grave, N. II. 233. 
Gibbs’ Falls, N. FI. 232. 
Gilead, Me. 228, 289. 
Glenburn, Me. 316. 

Glen Ellis Falls, N. H. 227. 
Glen House, N. IF. 226, 235. 
Glens Falls, N. Y. 356. 
Gloucester, Mass. 245. 
Goodrich Falls, N. H. 225. 
Gorham, Me. 213. 

Gorham, N. H. 227, 289. 
Governor’s Id., Mass 20. 
Governor’s Id.,N.Y. 329,48. 
Grafton, Mass. 126. 
Grafton, N. H. 198. 


Granbv, Conn. 109. 

Grand Falls, N. 13. 323,385 
Grand Menan Id. 322. 
Grand Schoodic Lake 319. 
Granville, Vt 200. 

Great Barrington 152. 
Great Falls, N. H. 213. 
Great Gulf, N. H. 235. 
Great Head, Me. 304. 
Greenfield Hill, Conn. 86. 
Greenfield, Mass. 177. 
Greenland, N. H. 263. 
Green Mt., Me. 305. 

Green Mts., Vt. 1S2, 199. 
Greenville, Me. 296. 
Greenwich, Conn. 89. 
Greenwich, R. I. 67. 
Greylock, Mass. 153. 
Groton, Conn. 72, 73. 
Groton, Mass. 105. 

Groton, Vt. 169. 

Grout’s Corner, Mass. 177. 
Grove Hall, Mass. 36. 
Guilford, Conn. 76. 

Haddam, Conn. 106. 
Hadley, Mass. 161. 

Flague, N. Y. 360. 

Ha Ha Bay, Can. 386. 
Haley’s Id., Me. 266. 
IFallowell, Me. 311. 
Hamden, Conn. 108. 
Hamilton, Mass. 257. 
Hampden, Me. 318 
Hampton. N. H 262. 
Beach 262. 

Falls 261. 

Hanover. N. H. 166. 
IFarpswell, Me. 275. 
Harrison, Me. 2S5. 
Hartford, Conn. 134. 
Athenauun 137. 

Cedar Grove 139. 
Churches 135. 

Old State House 136. 
State House 135. 
Harvard, Mass. 105. 
Harvard University 29. 
Harwich, Mass. 56. 
Hastings-on-Hudson 342. 
Hatfield, Mass. 162. 
Haverhill, Mass. 279. 
Haverhill, N. II. 211. 
Haverstraw, N. Y. 343. 
Hazardville, Conn. 133. 
Hebron, N. H. 198. 

Hell Gate, N. Y. 47. 
Highgate Springs, Vt. 207 
Highland Light 57. 
Highlands, the 343. 
Hillsboro Bridge 196. 
Hingham, Mass. 24. 
Hinsdale, Mass. 143. 






452 


Hinsdale, N. H. 102. 
Hiram, Me. 285. 

Hoboken, N. J. 341. 
Holbrook, Mass. 54. 
Holderness, N. H. 210. 
Hollis, N. H. 100. 

Holmes’ Hole, Mass. 59, 60. 
Holyoke, Mass. 158. 
Ilookset, N. H. 194. 
Hoosac Tunnel 154, 179. 
Hopper, the 157. 

Hough’s Neck, Mass. 37. 
Houlton, Me. 323. 
Hubbard ton, Vt. 187. 
Hudson, N. Y. 348. 

Hull, Mass. 23. 

Hvannis, Mass. 56. 

Hyde Park, N. Y. 340 

Indian Harbor, Conn. 89. 
Lorette, Can. 3S4. 

Neck, Conn. 77. 

Hock, Me. 292. 

Ingleside, Mass. 158. 

Iona Id., N. Y. 344. 
Ipswich, Mass. 257. 
Irasburgh, Vt. 171. 
Irvington, N. Y. 342. 
Island Pond, Vt. 290. 
Island, Blackwell’s 47. 
Block 71. 

Boone 267. 

Brigadier 317. 

Campo Bello 322. 

Castle 22. 

Charles, Conn. 84. 
Conanicut 46. 

Coney 340. 

Constitution 345. 
Continental 265. 

Crane 385. 

Cruger’s 347. 

Cushing’s 274. 
Cuttyhunk 92. 

Deer 20. 

Diamond, Me. 274. 
Diamond, N. H. 217. 
Diamond, N. Y. 358. 
Dome, N. Y. 359. 
Dustou’s 197. 

Fisher’s 73. 

Goat 46. 

Goose 385. 

Grand Menan 322. 
Governor’s, Mass. 20. 
Governor’s, N. H. 215. 
Governor’s, N. Y. 329. 
Grosse 385. 

Iona 344. 

Long, Mass. 23. 

Long, N. H. 217. 

Long, N. Y. 339. 

Lowell 256- 


INDEX. 


Martha’s Vineyard 59. 
Monhegan 316. 

Mount Desert 303. 
Mystic 72. 

Nantucket 60. 

Naushon 92. 

Neutral 322. 

No Man’s Land 59. 
Orr’s 297. 

Peak’s, Me. 274. 
Penequeese 92. 

Plum, Mass. 260. 
Prudence 66. 
Rainsford’s 23. 

Recluse 359. 

Rhode 46. 

Richmond 270. 

Stage 268. 

Staten 340. 

Thacher’s 247. 
Thompson’s 22. 
Valcour, Vt. 367. 
Vinalhaven 316. 

Ward’s 339. 

Wetmore 317. 

Elizabeth 92. 

St. George’s 301. 
Thimble 76. 

Isle aux Coudres 385. 
Deer, Me. 303. 

Grand, Vt, 367. 
of Orleans 3S5. 

St. Helens’ 370. 

Isles of Shoals 265. 

Ivy Mt., Conn. 115 

Jackson, N. H, 225. 
Jaffrey, N. II. 179. 
Jamaica, L. I. 340. 
Jamaica Plain, Mass. 35. 
Jay, Me. 291. 

Jefferson Hill, N. II. 229. 
Jefferson, Mt. 236. 
Jonesport, Me. 307. 
Jordan’s Pond, Me. 304. 

Katahdin, Mt., Me. 297. 
Kearsarge, Mt. 198. 
Keene, N. H. 179. 
Kennebunk, Me. 268,283. 
Kennebunkport 268, 283. 
Kent, Conn. 114. 
Kiarsarge, Mt. 224. 
Killingly, Conn. 118. 
Killington Peak, Vt. 182. 
Killingworth, Conn. 76. 
Kinderhook, N. Y. 348. 
Kineo Mt., Me. 296. 
Kingtield, Me. 292. 
Kingston, N. Y. 347. 
Kingston, R. I. 67. 
Kittery, Me. 265. 
Knowltou’s Landing 173. 


Lachine Rapids 372. 
Laconia, N. II. 209. 
Lafayette, Mt. 239. 

Lake Ashley, Mass. 145. 
Aylmer, Can. 290 
Beauport, Can. 384. 
Bomaseen, Vt. 187. 
Chabonakongkomon 104 
Champlain 361. 
Chesuncook, Me. 296. 
China, Me. 313, 
Contoocook, N. H. 180. 
Crystal, Vt. 171. 
Dunmore, Vt. 183. 

Echo (Conway) 225. 
Echo (Franconia) 238. 
Enfield, N. H. 198. 
George, N. Y. 357. 
Grand Schoodic 319. 
Heart, N. H. 198. 

Long, Conn. 113. 

Long, Me. 285. 

Luzerne, N. Y. 355. 
Malikeenac, Mass. 150. 
Massabesic, N. H. 193. 
Massawippi, Can. 174. 
Mempliremagog 171. 
Merry meeting 219. 
Mooseliead 294, 295 
Newfound, N. H. 198. 
of Seven Isles 323. 
Onota, Mass. 145. 
Ossipee, N. II. 220. 
rontoosuc, Mass. 145. 
Profile, N. II. 239. 
Quinsigamoud 126. 
Rockland, N. Y. 343. 
Saltonstall, Conn. 77. 
St. Catharine, Vt. 18S. 
St. Charles, Can. 384. 

St. Joachin, Can. 385. 
St. John, Cau. 386. 

St. Peter 374. 

Sebago, Me. 284. 
Sinnipink, N. Y. 344. 
Spectacle (Ponds) 114. 
Squam, N. H. 216, '217. 
Sunapee, N. H. 196. 
Twin, Conn. 123. 
Umbagog 244, 2S9. 
Village, N. H. 209. 
Waukawan 209. 
Wenham 256. 
Willoughby, Vt, 170. 
Winnepesaukee 215, 82. 
Lakeville, Conn. 122. 
Lakeville, Mass. 54. 
Lancaster, Mass. 105. 
Lancaster, N. H. 212. 
Lanesboro, Mass. 153. 
Lanesville, Mass. 247. 
Lawrence, Mass. 278. 

Lead Mine Bridge 228. 





INDEX. 


453 


Lebanon, Conn. 98. 
•Lebanon, N. H. 199. 
Ledges, the N. H. 224. 
Leeds, Me. 291. 

Lee, Mass. 148. 

Leeds, Mass. 110. 
Lennoxville, Can. 174, 290. 
Lenox, Mass. 147. 

Leverett, Mass. 102. 
Lewiston, Me. 308. 
Lexington, Mass. 28. 
Leyden Gorge 178. 

Lincoln, Mass. 175. 

Lisbon Falls, Me. 291. 
Litchfield, Conn. 112. 
Littleton, N. H. 212. 
Livermore Falls, N. H. 210. 
Livermore, Me. 291. 
Londonderry, N. H. 279. 
Long Branch, N. J. 340. 
Long Id., Can. 173. 

Long Id., Mass. 23. 

Long Id., N. H. 217. 

Long Id., N. Y. 339. 

Long Lake, Conn. 113. 
Long Lake, Me. 2S5. 
Longmeadow, Mass. 133. 
Longueuil, Can. 373. 
Lonsdale, R. I. 93. 

Lovell, Me. 287. 

Lowell Id , Mass. 256. 
Lowell, Mass. 189. 

Ludlow, Vt. 181. , 

Lunenburg, Vt. 212. 

Lyme, Conn. 75. 

Lyme, N. H. 167. 
Lyndeborougli, N. II. 192. 
Lyndon, Vt. 170. 

Lynn, Mass. 250. 

Machias, Me 307. 
Madawaska, Me. 324. 
Madison,-Mt. 236. 

Madrid, Me. 292. 
Magalloway River 244, 289. 
Magnolia, Mass. 247. 
Magog, Can. 173. 

Maine Forest, the 323. 
Malbaie, Can. 385. 

Malden, Mass. 275. 

Mallet’s Bay, Vt. 204. 
Mamaroneek, N. Y. 90. 
Manchester, Conn. 94. 
Manchester, Mass. 245. 
Manchester, N. II. 193. 
Manchester, Vt. 185. 
Manhattanville, N. Y. 341. 
Mansfield, Conn. 99. 
Mansfield, Mt.., Vt. 203. 
Marblehead, Mass. 255. 
Marblehead Neck. 256, 409. 
Marion, Mass. 54. 

Marlboro, Mass. 126 , 424. 


Marshfield, Mass. 49. 
Marshpee, Mass. 56. 
Martha’s Vineyard 59. 
Masliapaug Lake 118. 
Mattapoisett, Mass. 54. 
Mattawamkeag, Me. 319. 
McAdam June., N. B. 319. 
Mclndoes Falls, Vt. 169. 
Mechanic Falls, Me. 2S7. 
Medfield, Mass. 120. 
Medford, Mass. 275. 
Megunticook Mts. 317. 
Melrose, Mass. 275. 
Meredith, N. II. 209. 
Meriden, Conn. 140. 
Merrymeeting Lake 219. 
Methuen. Mass, 279. 
Middleboro, Mass. 54. 
Middlebury, Vt. 183. 
Middlesex, Mass. 191. 
Middlesex, Vt. 202. 
Middletown, Conn. 106. 
Middletown Springs, Vt. 
188 

Milan, N. II. 289. 

Milford, Conn. 84. 

Milford, Me. 319. 

Milford, N. H. 192. 
Millerton, N. Y. 121. 
Milton, N. H. 213. 

Milton, Vt. 204. 

Minot’s Ledge, Mass. 49. 
Missisquoi Springs 206. 
Mohegan, Conn. 98. 
Monadnock Mt., N. H. 179. 
Monadnock Mt., Vt. 243. 
Monhegan Id., Me. 316. 
Monkton, Vt. 184. 

Monroe Mt. 236. 

Monson, Me. 295. 

Monson, Mass.99. 
Montague, Mass 177. 
Montmorenci Falls 384. 
Montpelier, Vt. 200. 
Montreal, Can. 291, 368. 
Around the Mt. 372. 
Bonsecours Market 370. 
Champ de Mars 370. 
Christ Church Cathedral 
371. 

Gesu, Church of the 371- 
Gray Nunnery 372. 
Lachine Rapids 372. 
McGill College 371. 

Notre Dame 369. 

St. George 372. 

St- Patrick 371. 

Victoria Bridge 373. 
Victoria Square 369. 
Monument Mt., Mass. 151. 
Moose Chasm, Me. 289. 
Moosehead Lake 294, 296. 
Moosetocmaguntic 292. 


Moosilauke Mt. N. H. 211. 
Moriah, Mt., N. H. 228. 
Morris, Conn. 113. 
Moultonboro, N. H. 219. 
Mount Adams, N. H. 236. 
iEolus, Vt. 186. 
Agamenticus, Me. 267. 
Annanance, Vt. 170. 
Anthony, Vt. 186. 
Ascutney, Vt. 166. 
Auburn Cemetery 33 
Bald, N. H. 239. 
Belknap, N. H. 209, 219. 
Carmel, Conn. 108. 
Chocorua, N. H. 214, 221. 
Clinton, N. H. 235. 
Cro’-Nest, N. Y. 345. 
Desert, Me. 303. 
Dunderberg, N. Y. 343- 
Elephantis, Can. 173. 
Equinox, Vt. 185. 
Everett, Mass. 152. 
Franklin, N. H. 236. 
Greylock, Mass. 153. 
Hayes, N. II 228. 
Holyoke, Mass. 160. 
Hopkins 157. 

Hope, R. I. 66. 

Hor, Vt. 170. 
Independence, Vt. 363. 
Jefferson 236. 

Katahdin, Me. 297, 319. 
Kearsarge, N. H. 198. 
Kiarsarge, N. H. 224. 
Kilburn 165. 

Kineo 296. 

Lafayette, N. H. 239. 
Madison 236. 

Major, N. H. 218. 
Mansfield, Vt. 203. 
Megunticook, Me. 317. 
Monadnock, N. H. 179. 
Monadnock, Vt. 243. 
Monroe 236. 

Monument, Mass. 151. 
Moosilauke, N. H. 211. 
Moriah, N. H. 228. 
Nonotuck, Mass. 160. 
Ossipee, N. H. 219, 220. 
Owl’s Head, Can. 172. 
Owl’s Head, N. H. 211. 
Passaconaway 220. 
Pinnacle, Can. 174. 
Pinnacle, N. H. 194. 
Pleasant, Me. 285. 
Pleasant, N. H. 236. 
Profile', N. II. 239. 
Prospect, Conn. 115. 
Prospect, N. II. 210. 
Pulaski, Vt. 168. 

Ragged, N. H. 198. 

Riga, Conn. 121. 
Rouillard, Can. 290. 






454 


INDEX 


Ste. Anne, Can. 385. 

St. Vincent, N. Y. 341. 
Sugar Loaf, Mass. 162. 
Surprise, N. H. 228. 
Tabor, Vt. 185. 

Toby, Mass. 102. 

Tom, Conn. 113. 

Tom, Mass. 160. 

Tom, Vt. 190. 

Vernon, N. H. 192. 
Wantastiquet 103. 
Washington, Mass. 152. 
Washington, N. II. 234. 
Ascent from Craw¬ 
ford’s 235. 

Ascent from Gorham 
236. 

Carriage-road 235. 
Railway 234. 

View 237. 

Whiteface, N. H. 220. 
Willard, N. H. 231. 
Mountains, Adirondack 365 
Allagash 323. 

Berkshire 142. 

Catskill 347. 

Dixville 243. 

Franconia 238. 

Green 182-186,199-204. 
Helderberg 348. 
Highlands 343, 344. 
Laurentian 378, 385. 
Lunenburg 212. 
Magalloway 245. 
Megunticook 317. 

Pilot 212. 

Sandwich 220. 
Shawangunk 346. 

White 221. 

Murray Bay, Can. 385. 
Myricks, Mass. 54. 

Mystic, Conn. 72. 

Mystic Pond 189. 

Vahant, Mass. 21. 
Xantasket Beach 23. 
Nantucket 60. 

Naples, Me. 284. 
Narragansett Bay 65. 
Narragausett Fort 69. 
Narragansett Pier 68. 
Nashua, N. H. 191. 

Natick, Mass. 124. 

Natural Bridge 154. 
Naugatuck, Conn. 111. 
Naushon Id. 92. 

Newark, Vt. 171. 

New Bedford, Mass. 90. 
New' Britain, Conn. 95. 
Newburg, N. Y. 345. 
Newbury, Vt. 168. 
Newburyport, Mass. 258. 
Newcastle, Me. 299. 


Newfound Lake 198. 

New Gloucester, Me. 287. 
New Hartford, Conn. 120. 
New' Haven, Conn. 77, 141 
Art Gallery 81. 

Cemetery 78. 

East Rock 83. 

Public Green 79. 

Savin Rock 83. 

State House 80. 

West Rock 83. 

Yale College 80. 

New Haven, Vt. 184. 

New Lebanon Springs 146. 
New London, Conn. 72. 
Newmarket, N. H. 267, 281. 
New Marlboro, Mass. 252. 
New Milford, Conn. 114. 
Newport, Me. 314 
Newport, R. I. 40, 66. 
Bellevue Ave. 44. 

First Beach 45. 

Fort Adams 46. 

Islands, the 46. 

Lawton’s Valley 44. 
Purgatory 45. 

Redwood Library 43. 
Round Tower 43. 

State House 42. 

New}>ort, Vt. 171. 

New Rochelle, N. Y. 90. 
Newton, Mass. 35,120,124. 
Newtown, Conn. 114. 

New York City 325. 

Astor Library 333. 
Battery 329. 

Bay, the 329. 

Bible House 333. 
Boulevard 338. 

Bowling Green 329. 
Broadway 330, 335. 
Cathedral 336. 

Central Park 336. 

Christ Church 335. 

City Hall 332. 

Cooper Institute 333. 
Court House 332. 

Custom House 331. 

Fifth Avenue 335. 

Five Points 332. 

Grace Church 333. 

Grand Central Depot 336. 
High Bridge 338. 

Lenox Library 338. 
Madison Square 334. 
National Academy of 
Design 334. 

New Post-Office 332. 
New York University 333 
Park Row 331. 

Reservoir 335. 

St. George 334. 

St. Paul 331. 


Sub-Treasury 330. 
Temple Emanuel 336. 
Tombs, the 332. 

Trinity Church 330. 
Union Square 333. 

Wall Street 330. 

Ward’s Island 339. 

Y. M. C. Association 334 
Niantic, Conn. 74. 

Nix’s Mate, Mass. 23. 
Norfolk, Conn. 120. 
Norman’s Woe 246. 
Noroton, Conn. 87. 
Norridgewock, Me. 293. 

N. Adams, Mass. 154. 
Northampton, Mass. 159. 
North boro, Mass. 126. 

N. Conway, N. H. 223, 287. 
Northfield, Mass. 102. 
Northfield, Vt. 200. 

N. Haven, Conn. 141. 

N. Stratford, N. H. 243. 
Northumberland, N. H. 

212, 243, 290. 

N. Yarmouth, Me. 287. 
Norton’s Falls, Conn. 122. 
Norwalk, Conn. 87. 
Norwich, Conn. 96, 119. 
Norwich, Vt. 166. 

Notch, Bolton, Conn. 94. 
Dixville, N. II. 243. 
Franconia, N. II. 238. 
Grafton, Me. 289. 
Pinknam, N. H. 226. 
Sandgate, Vt. 186. 
Smuggler’s, Vt. 202. 
White Mt. 231. 
Wilmington, N. Y. 367. 

Oak Bluffs, Mass. 60. 

Old Deerfield, Mass. 163. 
Old Hadley, Mass. 161. 

Old Orchard Beach 2S3. 
Oldtown, Me. 318. 

Ore Hill, Conn. 121. 

Orford Mt., Can. 173. 
Orford, N. II. 168. 

Orient Springs, Mass. 102. 
Orono, Me. 318. 

Osceola, Mt. 242. 

Ossipee Mt., N.H. 219, 220 
Ossipee, N. H. 214. 

Otta Quechee Valley, Vt 
199. 

Owl’s Head Mt., Can. 172. 
Oxford, Me. 28S. 

Oxford, Mass. 104. 

Palenville, N. Y. 348. 
Palisades, the 341. 

Palmer, Mass. 130. 

Paris Hill, Me. 288. 
Parmachene Lake 289. 





INDEX. 


455 


Pasque Id., Mass. 92. 
Pa&saconaway Mt. 220. 
Passumpsic, Vt. 169. 
Patten, Me. 319. 

Paulding Manor, N. Y. 342. 
Pawtucket, R. I. 62. 
Pawtuxet, R. I. 65. 
Peabody, Mass. 253. 
Peacedale, R. I. 68. 

Peak’s Id., Me. 274. 
Peekskill, N. Y.343. 
Pelham Fort, Mass. 179. 
Pemaquid, Me. 299. 
Pemigewasset Valley 210 
Penequeese Id. 92. 
Peppered, Mass. 105. . 

Pequot House, Conn. 74. 
Perry’s Peak, Mass. 148. 
Peterboro, N. H. 179,413. 
Phillips, Me. 292. 
Phipsburg, Me, 297. 
Piermont, N. J. 342. 
Pigeon Cove, Mass. 247. 
Pittsburg, N. II. 245. 
Pittsfield, Mass. 144. 
Pittsford, Vt ., 182. 
Placentia, N. Y. 346. 
Plainfield, Conn. 94. 
Plainville, Conn. 109. 
Plattsburg, N. Y. 367. 
Pleasant, Mt 236 
Plymouth, Conn. 112. 
Plymouth, Mass. 51. 
Burying Hill 53. 
Forefather’s Rock 52. 
Pilgrim Hall 52. 
Plymouth Forest 53. 
Plymouth, N. H. 210, 217, 
242. 

Pocasset, Mass. 58. 

Point Judith, R. I. 69. 
Point Levi, Can. 290, 383. 
Point Shirley, Mass. 20. 
Pomfret, Conn. 118. 
Pompanoosuc, Vt. 167. 
Pool, the N. H. 240. 

Port Chester, N. Y. 90. 
Port Henry, N. Y. 365. 
Port Kent, N. Y. 367. 
Portland, Me. 270, 283. 
City Hall 272. 

Custom House 272. 
Evergreen Cem. 273. 
Observatory 272. 
Post-Office 273. 

W. Promenade 271. 
Portsmouth, N. II. 263. 
Poughkeepsie, N. Y. 346. 
Poultney, Vt. 187. 

Presque Isle, Me. 323. 
Princeton, Mass. 177. 
Proctorsville, Vt. 181. 
Profile House 238. 


Profile, the 239. 

Prospect Mt., Conn. 115. 
Prospect Mt., N. H. 210. 
Prout’s Neck, Me. 270. 
Providence, R. I. 63. 
Arcade 63. 

Athenaeum 64. 

Brown University 64. 
Monument 63. 

R. . Hospital 64. 
Provincetown, Mass. 57. 
Prudence Id., R. I. 66. 
Pulaski Mt., Vt. 168. 
Putnam, Conn. 117. 
Putney, Vt. 164. 

Quebec, Can. 290, 375. 
Cathedral 380. 

Citadel 379. 

Durham Terrace 378. 
English Cathedral 378. 
Golden Dog 382. 

Hotel Dieu 380. 

Jesuit Buildings 381. 
Laval University 381. 
Marine Hospital 382. 
Market Square 380. 

Mt. Hermon Cem. 3S3. 
Notre Dame des Victoires 
383. 

Parliament House 380. 
Place d’Armes 378. 
Plains of Abraham 383. 
Prescott Gate 380. 
Seminary 381. 

St. John’s Gate 379. 

St. Louis Gate 379. 
Ursuline Convent 381. 
Wolfe and Montcalm 
Monument 379. 

Queen’s Fort, R. 1. 69. 
Quincy, Mass. .37> 5 8b. 
Quinsigamond Lake 126. 
Quoddy Head, Me. 322. 

Rafe’s Chasm, Mass. 247. 
Ragged Mt., N. II. 198. 
Randolph Hill 228, 2S6. 
Randolph, Vt. 200. 
Rangeley Lakes 245, 292. 
Raynham, Mass. 38. 
Readfield, Me. 309. 
Reading, Conn. 116. 
Reading, Mass. 276. 
Readville, Mass. 62. 
Recluse Id., N. Y. 359. 

Red Hill, N. H. 216. 
Revere Beach, 27. 
Rhinebeck-on-IIudson 347. 
Rhode Island 40, 46. 
Richford, Vt. 207. 
Richmond, Can. 290. 
Richmond Id. 270. 


Richmond, Me. 311. 
Ridgefield, Conn. 116. 
Ridley’s Station, Vt. 203. 
Rindge, N. H. 179. 

Ripton, Vt. 184. 

River, Ammonoosuc 233, 
290. 

Androscoggin 289, 291, 
308, 310. 

Aroostook 323, 324. 
Chaudiere 313, 383. 
Connecticut 75, 106, 134, 
157, 169, 211, 243, 245. 
East 47, 339. 

Farmington 109, 143. 
Housatonic 115,148, 153. 
Hudson 340, 356. 
Kennebec 293, 311. 
Lamoille 203, 204. 
Merrimac 189, 193, 197, 
258, 278, 279. 
Missisquoi 206. 
Naugatuck 111. 
Passumpsic 169. 
Pemigewasset 210, 241. 
Penobscot 296, 316. 
Richelieu 207, 368, 373. 
Saco 223, 231, 269, 285. 
Saguenay 385. 

St. Croix 322. 

St. John 320, 323. 

St. Lawrence 369, 372, 
373, 384. 

St. Maurice 374. 

Thames 96. 

Winooski 203, 204. 
Riverdale, Mass. 246. 
Rivenuoutli Rocks, 262. 
Riviere du Loup 323, 385. 
Rochester, N. H. 213, 282. 
Rockland Lake, N. Y. 343. 
Rockland, Me. 301, 316. 
Roekport, Mass. 247. 
Rockville, Conn. 94. 

Rocky Hill, Conn. 140. 
Rocky Point, R. I. 65. 
Rogers’ Slide, N. Y. 360. 
Rondout, N. Y. 346. 
Roslyn, L. I. 340. 
Rougemont Mt. 208. 
Rouillard Mt. 290. 

Round Id., Can. 172. 
Rouse’s Point, N. Y. 207 
Rowley, Mass. 258. 
Roxbury, Mass. 36. 
Roxbury, Vt. 200. 
Royalton, Vt. 200. 

Rumford Falls, Me. 288. 
Rumney, N. H. 211. 
Rutland, Vt. 181. 

Rye Beach, N. H. 263. 
Ryegate, Vt. 168. 

Rye, N. Y. 90. 




456 


INDEX. 


Sabbath Day Point 359. 
Saccarappa, Me. 213. 
Sachem’s Head, Conn. 76. 
Sachem’s Plain, Conn. 97. 
Saco, Me. 269. 

Saco Pool 269. 

Sage’s Ravine, Conn. 122. 
Saguenay River 385. 

St. Albans, Vt. 204. 

St. Andrew, N. B. 322. 

Ste. Anne, Can. 384. 

St. Charles, Lake 384. 

St. Fereol Falls 385. 

St. Francis, Me 324. 

St. George, Me. 301. 

St. Ilyacinthe, Can. 290. 
St. John River 320. 

St. Johnsbury, Vt. 169. 
St.John’s, Can. 208. 

St. Johns, N. B. 320. 

St. Maurice River 374. 

St. Stephen, N. B. 323. 
Salem, Mass. 251. 

Court House 253. 
Custom House 253. 

East India Museum 252. 
Plummer Hall 252. 
Salem Neck 253. 
Salisbury Beach 260. 
Salisbury, Conn, lift, 121. 
Salisbury, Mass. 260. 
Salmon Falls, N. II. 283. 
Sandgate Notch, Vt. 186. 
Sandisfield, Mass. 152. 
Sand Spring, Mass. 156. 
Sandwich, Mass. 55. 
Sandwich, N. II. 219. 
Sankoty Head, 62. 
Saratoga Springs 350. 
Battle-field 355. 
Columbian Spring 352. 
Congress Spring 352. 
Crystal Spring 353. 
Excelsior Spring 354. 
Geyser Spring 354. 

Lake, the 354. 

Park, Congress 352. 
Pavilion Spring 353. 
Seltzer Spring 353. 

Star Spring 354. 
Saugerties, N. Y. 347. 
Savin Rock, Conn. 83. 
Savoy, Mass. 153. 

Sawyer’s Rock, N. H. 230. 
Saybrook, Conn. 75. 
Scarboro Beach 270, 283. 
Schoodic Lakes, Me. 322. 
Schooner Head, Me. 304. 
Scituate, Mass. 49. 

Screw Auger Falls 289. 
Seabrook, N. H. 261. 
Searsport, Me. 317. 

Sebago Lake, Me. 284. 


Sebec Lake, Me. 295. 
Sesacaclia Pond 62. 
Seymour, Conn. 111. 
Sharon, Mass. 626. 

Sharon, Vt. 199. 
Shawanegan Falls 374. 
Sheffield, Mass. 153. 
Sheffield, N. B. 320. 
Shelburne Falls, Mass. 179. 
Shelburne, N. H. 289. 
Sheldon Springs, Vt. 206. 
Sherbrooke, Can. 174. 
Shippan Point, Conn. 89. 
Shoals, Isles of 265. 
Shrewsbury, Mass. 126. 
Siasconset, Mass. 61. 

Silver Cascade, 232. 
Simsbury, Conn. 109. 

Sing Sing, N. Y. 343. 
Skinner Hollow, Vt. 185. 
Skinner’s Id., Can. 172. 
Skowhegan. Me. 293. 
Sleepy Hollow, N. Y. 842. 
Smugglers’ Notch, Vt. 202. 
Solon, Me. 294. 

Somerville, Mass. 249, 275. 
Somes’ Sound, Me. 306. 
Sorel, Can. 373. 

S. Adams, Mass. 153. 

S. Braintree, Mass. 38, 51. 
S. Cornwall, Conn. 115. 

S. Deerfield, Mass. 162. 

S. Egremont, Mass. 152. 

S. Framingham 125. 

S. Hadley, Mass. 158. 
Southington, Conn. 109. 

S. Kingstown, R. I. 69. 

S. Mountain, Mass. 145. 

S. Norwalk, Conn. 87. 

S. Paris, Me. 288. 
Southport, Conn. 86. 
Southport, Me. 299. 

8 . Royalton, Vt. 200. 

S. Vernon, Vt. 102. 
Southwest Ilarbor.Me. 306. 
S. Windham, Me. 284. 

S. Windsor, Conn. 140. 
Sparkling Cascade 232. 
Spectacle Ponds 114. 
Spencer, Mass. 130. 

Spot Pond 189, 275. 
Springfield, Mass. 131, 157. 
City Library 132. 

Court House 132. 

U. S. Armory 131. 
Springfield, Vt. 165, 181. 
Springvale, Me. 213. 
Spuyten Duyvil Creek, N. 
Y. 341. 

Spy Pond, Mass. 34. 
Squam Lake 217, 220. 
Squantum Point 37. 
'Stafford Springs 99. 


Stage Id., Me. 269. 
Stamford, Conn. 88. 
Standish, Me. 285. 
Stanstead, Can. 174. 

Star Id., N. H. 265. 

Starks, Me. 294. 
Stockbridge, Mass. 149. 
Stoneham, Mass. 275. 
Stonington, Conn. 71. 
Stony Creek, Conn. 76. 
Stony Point, N. Y. 343. 
Stow, Vt. 202. 

Strafford, N. H. 282. 
Stratford, Conn. 84. 
Stratford, N. II. 290. 
Stratham, N. H. 267. 
Stratton Gap, Vt. 185. 
Strong, Me. 292. 

Sudbury, Mass. 125. 

Sugar Loaf Mt. 162. 
Summit, Vt. 181. 

Sunapee Lake, N. H. 196. 
Suncook, N. II. 194. 
Sunderland, Mass. 162. 
Surprise, Mt. 228. 
Sutherland Falls, Vt. 182. 
Swampscott, Mass. 251, 407. 
Swanton, Vt. 207. 

Swanzey, N. H. 102. 

Sylvan Glade Cataract 232 

Tadousac, Can. 385. 

Talcott Mt., Conn. 139. 
Tappan, N. J. 342. 

Tappan Zee 342. 

Tarrytown, N. Y. 342. 
Taunton, Mass. 38. 
Templeton, Mass. 177. 
Tewksbury, Mass. 189. 
Thacher’s Id., Mass. 247. 
The Forks, Me. 294. 
Thetford, Vt. 167. 

Thimble Is., Conn. 76. 
Tbomaston, Me. 301. 
Thompson, Conn. 104, 117. 
Thompson’s Falls, N. H. 
226. 

Thompson’s Id. 22. 
Thompsonville 133. 

Three Rivers, Can. 290,374. 
Throgg’s Point, N. Y. 47. 
Ticonderoga, Fort 183, 362. 
Tilton, N. H. 209. 

Tivoli, N. Y. 347. 

Toby Mt. 102. 

Tolland, Conn. 99. 
iTopsfield, Mass. 276. 

Troy, N. II. 180. 

Troy, N. Y. 350. 

Truro, Mass. 56. 
Tuckerman’s Ravine, N. 
H. 227, 237. 

iTufts College, Mass. 189. 





INDEX. 


457 


Turner’s Falls, Mass. 178. 
Twin Lakes, Conn. 123. 
Twin Mt. House 233. 

Umbagog Lake 244, 289. 
Undercliff, N. Y. 345. 
Upper Bartlett 230, 287. 
Upton, Me. 244, 289. 
Uxbridge, Mass. 93. 

Van Buren, Me. 324. 
Vanceboro, Me. 319. 
Varennes, Can. 373. 
Vassalboro, Me. 313. 
Vassal 1 College 346. 
Vergennes, Vt. 184, 365. 
Vernon, Conn. 94. 

Vernon,Vt. 102. 
Verplanck’s Point 343. 
Vershire, Vt. 167. 
Vineyard Haven 60. 
Vineyard Sound 92. 

Vue de l’Eau, R. I. 65. 

Wacliusett, Mt. 177. 
Wakefield, Mass. 276. 
Waldoboro, Me. 300. 
Wallingford, Conn. 140. 
Wallingford, Vt. 184. 
Walpole, N. H. 180. 
Waltham, Mass. 175. 
Ward’s Id., N. Y. 47, 339. 

Wareham, Mass. 54. 
Warehouse Point 133. 
Warren, Me. 300. 

Warren, Mass. 130. 
Warren, N. H. 211. 
Warren, R. I. 66. 
Warwick, R. I. 67. 
Washington, Mass. 143. 
Washington, Mt. 234. 
Watch Hill Point 70. 
Waterbury, Conn. 95. 
Waterbury, Vt. 202. 
Waterford, Me. 285. 
Watertown, Conn. 112. 


Watertown, Mass. 34. 
Waterville, Conn. 112. 
Waterville, Me. 309, 314. 
Waterville, N. H. 242. 
Waukawan Lake 209. 
Waumbek House 212, 229. 
Wauregan, Conn. 119. 
Webster, Mass. 104. 
Weehawken, N. J. 341. 
Weir June., Mass. 90. 
Weirs, N. II. 209, 215. 
Weld, Me. 291. 

Wellesley, Mass. 124. 
Wellfleet, Mass. 56. 

Wells Beach 268, 283. 

Wells River, Vt. 168, 211. 
Wenham, Mass. 256. 
Wentworth, N. H. 211. 
Westboro, Mass. 126. 

W. Brookfield, Mass. 130. 
Westbrook, Me. 284, 309. 
Westerly, R. I. 70. 
Westfield, Mass. 110, 142. 
Westford, Mass. 176. 

W. Lebanon, N. H. 199. 

W. Medford, Mass. 188. 
Westminster, Mass. 177. 
Westminster, Vt. 164. 
Weston, Me. 319. 

W. Ossipee, N. II. 214, 220. 
West Point, N. Y. 344. 
Westport, Conn. 87. 
Westport, Me. 299. 
Westport, Mass. 92. 
Westport, N. Y. 365. 

West Rock, Conn. 83. 

W. Rutland, Vt. 182, 187. 
W. Troy, N. Y. 350. 
Wethersfield, Conn. 139. 
Weymouth, Mass. 48. 
Whately, Mass. 162. 
Whiteface Mt. 220. 
Whitehall, N. Y. 188, 356. 
White Id., N. H. 266. 

White River June., Vt. 166, 
199. 

White Mt. Notch 231. 
Whitman, Mass. 51, 54. | 


White Mts. 213, 222. 
Wickford, R. I. 67. 
Wilbraham, Mass. 130. 
Willard, Mt. 231. 

Willey House 231. 
Williamsburg, Mass. 110. 
Williams College 156. 
Williamstown, Mass. 156. 
Willimantic, Conn. 94. 
Willoughby Lake 170. 
Wilton, N. H. 192. 
Winchendon, Mass. 179. 
Winchester, Mass. 189. 
Winchester, N. H. 102. 
Windham, N. H. 279. 
Windsor, Conn. 133. 
Windsor, Mass. 144. 
Windsor, Vt, 165. 

Wing Road, N. II. 212. 
Winnepesaukee Lake, N 
H. 215, 282. 

Winooski, Vt. 204, 366. 
Winsted, Conn. 113. 
Winterport, Me. 318. 
Winthrop, Me. 308. 
Wiscasset, Me. 298. 
Woburn, Mass. 189. 
Wolcottville, Conn. 113. 
Wolfboro, N. H. 214, 218. 
Wood’s Hole, 59, 92. 
Woodstock, Conn. 117. 
Woodstock, N. B. 323. 
Woodstock, N. II. 241. 
Woodstock, Vt. 199. 
Woolwich, Me. 29S. 
Woonsocket, R. I. 93, 120. 
Worcester, Mass. 127. 
Antiquarian Soc. 128. 
Industrial School 127. 
Monuments 129. 

Yale College, Conn. 75, SQ 
Yantic Falls, Conn. 96. 
Yarmouth, Me. 309. 
Yarmouth, Mass 56. 
Yonkers, N. Y. 341. 

York, Me. 266. 





SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX 


Acton, Mass. 410,120. 
Adams, Mass. 153. 
Alexandria Bay, 400. 
Allenstown, N. H. 417. 
Amesbury, Mass. 420. 
Andover, Me. 292. 
Anticosti, P. Q 403. 
Antrim, N. II. 196. 
Arethusa Falls, N. II. 233. 
Arlington, Mass. 405. 
Ashfield, Mass. 163, 178 a. 
Athol, Mass. 177, 422. 
Attleboro, Mass. 62 ft. 

Baddeck, C. B. 404. 
Barnstable, Mass. 56. 
Barre, Mass. 411, 421. 
Bartlett, N. H. 230. 

Bay of Chaleur, 403. 

Beach Bluff, Mass. 408. 
Bedford, Mass. 406. 
Belgrade, Me. 308. 
Bennington, N. II. 196. 
Berlin Falls, N. II. 289. 
Bic, P Q. 402. 

Birchdale Springs 195. 
Blandford, Mass. 143. 
Block Island, R. I. 65 ft., 71 
Blue Hills, Mass. 37, 62. 
Bonaventure Island, 403. 
Boston, Mass. 5. 

Beacon Ilill 16 d. 

First Bapt. Ch. 16 c. 

Life Ins. Cos., 12 
Masonic Temple 12 ft. 
Museum, Fine Arts 16 ft. 
New Old South 16 a. 
Public Library 12 ft, 

St. James’s 12 ft. 
Technology 16 a. 

Trinity Church 16 a. 
University 18. 

Y. M. C. A. 16 c. 
Boylston, Mass. 104. 
Bradford, Vt. 168. 

Brant Rock, Mass. 49. 

Bras d’Or, C. B. 404. 
Bread-Loaf Inn, Vt. 184. 
Bridgewater, Mass. 53 ft. 
Brockton. Mass. 53 
Buckland Mass. 178 a. 


Buttonwoods, R. I. 67. 

Camden, Me. 425, 317. 
Campbellton, N. B 403. 
Oampello, Mass. 53 ft. 
Campobello, N. B. 322, 426. 
Caudia, N II. 419. 

Canton, Mass. 62 a. 

Cape Arundel, Me. 283. 
Cape Breton, N. S. 404. 
Charlemont, Mass. 178 a. 
Charlottetown, P. E. I. 404. 
Charlton, Mass. 130. 
Chatham, N. B. 404. 

Cheese Rock, Mass. 189. 
Chelsea, Vt. 200. 

Chester, Mass. 143. 

Chester, N. H. 419. 
Chesterfield, Mass. 110. 
Chesterfield, N. H. 180. 
Chiron Springs, N. H. 198. 
Clifford (The), Mass. 53 a. 
Cochituate Lake, Mass. 125. 
Coldbrook Springs, Mass. 
411,422. 

Conanicut, R. I. 46, 65 ft. 
Concord, Mass. 406, 28. 
Concord Junction 410 
Contoocook, N. II 417. 
Conway, Mass. 163. 

Cottage City, Mass. 59 
Crawford House 231, 230. 

Dalhousie, N. B. 403. 

Dana, Mass. 422. 

Danvers, Mass. 276, 420. 
Darien, Conn. 87. 

Dedham, Mass. 62 a, 117. 
Deerfield, N. H. 419. 

Deer Isle, Me. 307 a ; 303. 
Devereux, Mass. 408. 
Dexter, Me., 314. 

Dorset, Vt 185. 

Douglas, Mass. 117. 

Dover, N. II. 418, 281. 
Downer Landing, 24. 
Dublin, N. H. 414. 

Dudley, Mass. 117. 
Dunbarton, N. II 194. 
Dunstable, Mass. 411. 

East Jaffrey, N. II. 413. 


Edmundston, N. B 323. 
Ellsworth, Me. 318, 322. 
Enfield, Mass. 422. 

Epping, N. H. 419. 

Epsom, N. H. 417. 

Eustis, Me. 294. 

Father Point, P. Q. 402. 
Fernside, Mass. 148. 
Fisher’s Island, N. Y. 71,73 
Fitzwilliam, N. II. 179. 
Flagstaff, Me 295. 

Forks (The), Me. 293. 

Fort Popham, Me. 426. 
Foxboro, Mass. 62 6. 
Franconia, N. II. 234 a, 238. 

Gardner, Mass. 413, 177. 
Gasp£, P. Q. 403. 

Gill, Mass. 102, 178. 
Gilmanton, N. II. 209. 

Goat Island, R. I. 46. 
Goshen, Conn. 71. 115. 
Goshen, Mass. 110, 160. 
Grand Manan, 426, 322. 
Granville, Mass. 110. 
Green’s Landing, Me. 307 a 
Greenville, N. II. 176 
Groveton, N. II. 243. 

Halifax, Mass. 51. 
Hampstead, N. H. 414. 
Hardwick, Mass 421. 
Ilarrisville, N. H. 414. 
Hawley, Mass. 178 a. 
Heath, Mass. 178 a. 
Ilenniker, N. II 418. 
Hillsboro, N. II. 418,196. 
Holbrook, Mass. 53 ft. 
Holden, Mass. 411. 
llolliston, Mass. 125. 
Ilopedale, Mass. 125. 
Hopkinton, N. II. 417. 
Hopkinton Springs, 126. 
Hough’s Neck, Mass. 53 6. 
Ilubbardston, Mass 413. 
Ilumarocks (The), Mass. 49. 
Hyde Park, Mass. 62. 

Isle au Haut, Me. 307 a. 
Islesboro, Me. 307 c. 








SUPPLEMENTARY INDEX. 


459 


Katahdin Iron Works, 295. N. Duxbury, Vt 203. 
Katama, Mass. 60. N. Easton, Mass. 53 b. 

Keene, N. H. 179, 102. 


Keunebunkport, 283, 268. 
Kiarsarge Village, 224. 

Lake-Auburn Spring, 308. 
Lake Buel, 152. 

Lake Marauacook, 308. 
Lake Pleasant, 177. 
Leicester, Mass. 130. 
Lewiston, Me. 307 b. 
Lexington, Mass. 406, 28. 
Lisbon, N II. 211. 


Northport, Me. 425. 

Oakland Beach, R. I. 67. 
Ogdensburg, N. Y. 400. 
Onset Bay, Mass. 54. 
Orange, Mass. 177. 
Orleans (Isle of), 402, 385. 
Osprey Beach, 74. 

Ossipee Park, N. II. 219. 
Otis, Mass. 143. 148. 
Ottawa, Can. 400. 


Littleton, Mass. 410 
Littleton, N. II. 212. 
Livermore, N. II. 231, 242. 
Louisbourg, C. B. 405. 
Ludlow, Mass. 422. 

Lundy’s Laue, Out. 396, 395. 

Magnolia, Mass. 245, 247. 
Manomet, Mass. 53 a. 
Mansfield, Mass. 62 b. 
Maplewood, N. II. 234 a. 
Maquam Bay, Vt. 368. 
Marblehead, Mass. 408,255. 
Mark Rock, R. I. 65 a. 
Mass. Soldiers’ Home, 27. 
Mendon, Mass. 125. 
Middlesex Fells, 36 a , 189. 
Middleton, Mass. 420. 
Milford, Mass. 125. 
Millbury, Mass. 93. 

Miller’s Falls, Mass. 102. 
Monadnock, 413. 
Monhegan, 425, 316. 
Monson, Me. 295. 
Montgomery, Mass. 143. 
Mont Vernon, 423, 192. 
Moose River, 294. 

Mount Bowdoin, Mass. 36. 
Cardigan, N. II. 198. 
Toby, Mass. 163. 

Mystic Island, Conn. 71. 

Narragansett Bav, 65 a. 
Nashua, N. II. 191, 411. 
Nayatt Point, R. I. 65 a 
New Castle, N. 11.267. 

New Hampton, N. II 209. 
New London, N. H. 198 
Newmarket, N. II. 419, 281. 
New Marlboro, Mass. 152. 
Newport, N. II. 196. 

New Salem, Mass. 422. 

New York City, 325. 
Metropolitan Museum, 
336. 

East-River Bridge, 339. 
Museum Nat. History, 
336. 

Niagara Falls, N. Y. 390. 
Nonquitt, Mass. 92. 


Pawtucket, R. I 62 b. 
Pawtuxet, R. I. 65 a. 
Peabody, Mass. 419, 253. 
Pelham, Mass. 422, 178 b. 
Peru, Mass. 110. 

Peterboro, N. 11. 413, 179. 
Petersburgh, N. Y. 178 b. 
Petersham, Mass. 422. 
Phillips Beach, 408. 

Pictou, N. S. 404. 

Pittsfield, N. II. 417. 

Poland Spring, 308. 
Ponemah Spring, N. II. 423. 
Ponkapog, Mass. 62 a. 
Pownal, Vt. 178 b. 

Powwow Hill, 421. 

Prince Edward Island, 404. 
Princeton, Mass. 412. 
Prudence Island, 65 b. 
Purgatory, Mass. 93. 
Putney Ilill, 417. 

Queenston, Ont. 395. 

Randolph. Mass. 38. 
Rangeley Lakes, 292, 245. 
Raymond, N II. 419. 
Readfield, Me. 308. 

Revere, Mass. 409. 

Richfield Springs, 388. 
Richmond, Mass. 146. 
Richmond, Vt. 204, 203 
Rimouski, P. Q. 402 
Rindge, N. H. 413 179. 
Rochester, N. Y. 389 
Rocky Point, R. I 65 a. 
Rome, N. Y. 388. 

Roseland Park, Conn. 118. 
Royalston, Mass. 177. 
Rutland, Mass. 411. 

Salisbury, Mass. 420, 260 
Sandown, N. II. 414. 
Saxonville, Mass 124. 
Schenectady, N. Y. 387. 
Seal Harbor, Me. 307. 
Sharon, Mass. 62 b 
Shelburne Falls, 178 a. 
Shippigan, N. B. 403 
Shrewsbury Peak, 181. 


Silver Lake, Mass. 51. 
Silver Spring, R. I 65 a. 
Somerville, 405, 249, 275. 

S. Acton, Mass. 410. 
Southboro, Mass. 424. 

S Boston, Mass. 19. 
Southbridge, Mass. 117, 99 
S. Duxbury, Mass. 51. 

S. Natick, Mass. 124 
Southwick, Mass. 110. 

S. Williamstown, 157, 146. 
Spofford Lake, 180,108. 
Squirrel Island, 425. 
Sterling, Mass. 104. 
Stoughton, Mass. 38. 
Sturbridge, Mass. 117, 99. 
Suffield, Conn. 133. 

Sugar Ilill, 234 a. 

Sullivan, Me. 307 b. 
Summerside, P E. I. 404. 
Suncook, N. H. 417, 194. 
Sunset Rock, Mass. 36- 
Swampscott, Mass. 407, 251 
Sydney, C. B. 405. 
Syracuse, N. Y. 389. 

Templeton, Mass. 422. 
Thornton, N. II. 242 
Thousand Islands, 399. 

Tim Pond, Me. 294. 
Tiverton, R. I. 40. 

Toronto, Ont. 397. 

Trenton Falls. 388 
Troy, N. II. 179. 
Tyngsboro, Mass 191. 
Tyringham, Mass. 148. 

Wachusett, Mt. 412, 177. 
Walden Pond, 407. 

Wales, Mass. 99. 
Wallingford, Conn. 141. 
Ware, Mass. 421. 

Warner, N. II. 196. 
Warramaug Lake, 113. 
Warwick Neck, 65 a, 67. 
Watatic, Mt. 177. 

Webster, N II. 197. 

Weir Junction. 39, 90. 
Wentworth (The), 267. 

W. Boylston, Mass. 104. 
Westford, Mass. 411, 176. 
Westmoreland, N. II. 180. 
Weston, Mass. 175. 
Whirlpool (The), 895. 
Whykokomagh, C. B. 404. 
Winchendon, 413,422. 
Windham,N. II. 414. 
'Vinthrop, Mass. 409, 20. 
Wolcott, Conn. 96. 
Wollaston Heights. 87. 
Worcester, Mass. 411, 127. 
Worthington, Mass. 143. 

Zoar, Mass. 178 a. 






460 


INDEX. 


Index of Historical Allusions. 


Albany, N. Y. 349. 

Bangor, Me. 316. 

Battle of Bennington 186. 
Bloody Brook 162. 
Bunker Hill 26. 

Castine 302. 

the Chesapeake and 
Shannon 255. 
Hubbardton 187. 
the Indians 150. 

Lake George 356. 
Lexington 28. 

Pequawket 286. 

Pequot Hill 72. 
Plattsburg 367 
Quebec 376. 

Saratoga 355. 

Turner's Falls 178. 
Biddeford 269. 

Block Island 71. 

Boston 7. 

Braintree, Mass. 38. 
Bridgeport, Conn. 85. 
Brookfield, Mass. 130. 
Brunswick, Me. 309. 
Burlington, Vt. 367. 

Cape Ann 248. 

Cape Cod 55. 

Castine, Me. 302. 

Chambly, Can. 208. 
Charlestown, N. II. 165. 
Concord, N. H. 194. 

Crown Point, N. Y. 364. 
Cuttyhunk, Mass. 92. 


Danbury, Conn. 116. 
Deerfield, Mass. 163. 
Dover, N. H. 282. 
Duxbury, Mass. 50. 

Fort Montgomery, 344. 
Fort Tieonderoga, 362. 
Fryeburg, Me. 286. 

Hadley, Mass. 161. 
Hampton, N. H. 262. 

Isles of Shoals 266. 
Kennebunk, Me. 268. 

Lake Champlain 361. 

Lake George 357 
Lebanon, Conn. 98. 
Litchfield, Conn. 112, 113. 
Londonderry, N. II. 279. 
Louisburg Campaigns 7. 
Lynn, Mass. 250. 
Marblehead, Mass. 256. 
Marshpee, Mass. 56. 
Martha’s Vineyard 59. 
Milford, Conn. 84. 
Montreal 368. 

Mount Desert 306. 
Nantucket 60. 
Narragansett Fort Fight 
69. 

Natick, Mass. 125. 

New Bedford, Mass. 90. 
New Haven, Conn. 77. 

New London, Conn. 72. 
New York 328. 
Newburyport, Mass. 260. 
Newport, It. I. 40. 


Norridgewock, Me. 293. 
Northampton, Mass. 159. 
Pemaquid, Me. 299. 
Phipsburg, Me. 297. 
Pilgrim Compact 58. 
Plymouth, Mass. 51. 
Portland, Me. 271. 
Portsmouth, N. H. 264. 
Providence, R. I. 63. 
Quebec 376. 

Rhode Island 46. 

Rye, N. H. 263. 

St. John, N. B. 321. 
Salem, Mass. 253. 
Salisbury, Conn. 123. 
Saybrook, Conn. 75. 
Scarborough, Me. 270. 
Southport, Conn. 87. 
Springfield, Mass. 131. 
Stockbridge, Mass. 149. 
Stonington, Conn. 71. 
Stony Point, N. Y. 343. 
Sudbury, Mass. 125. 
Thomaston, Me. 301. 
Warwick, R. I. 67. 

Wells, Me. 268. 

West Point, N. Y. 344. 
Whitehall, N. Y. 356. 
White Mts. 222. 

Windsor, Conn. 133. 
Worcester, Mass. 129. 
Yale College 75, 76, 80. 
York, Me. 267. 


Index of Biographical Allusions. 


Adams, Charles Francis 38. 
Adams, John 37. 

Adams, John Quincy 37. 
Adams, Samuel 13. 

Allen, Ethan 201, 363. 

Allen, William 146. 

Allston, Washington 31, 45. 
Ames, Fisher 117. 

Andre, Major John 343. 
Andrew, Gov. John A. 24. 
Arnold, Benedict 342, 363, 376. 
Banks, Nathaniel P. 175. 
Barlow, Joel 116. 

Barnards, the 153. 

Barnum, Phineas T. 86. 
Beecher, Henry Ward 113. 
Beecher, Lyman 79, 113. 
Bellows, Henry W. 181. 
Berkeley, Dean George 45. 
Bowdoin, James 92, 310. 
Brentons, the 46. 

Brooks, Gov. John 189. 

Brown, Col. John 152, 358, 563, 


Brown, John 152, 113. 

Bryant, William Cullen 110, 157, 340. 
Casey, Gen. Silas 67. 

Cass, Lewis 281. 

Chamberlain, Gov. J. L. 311. 
Champlain, Samuel de 361, 61, 55. 
Champlin Com. Stephen 68. 
Channing, William Ellery 42. 

Chase, Bishop Philander 166. 

Chase. Chief-Justice Salmon P. 166. 
Chase, Senator Dudley 166. 

Choate, Rufus 257. 

Cole, Thomas 348. 

Copley, John Singleton 31. 

Crosswell, Harry 79. 

Dane, Nathan 256. 

Davenport, Abraham 89. 

Dawes, Henry L. 110. 

Dickinson, Daniel S. 115. 

Dix, John A. 197. 

Dixwell, John 80. 

Douglas, Stephen A. 183. 

Downes, Com. John 62. 






INDEX. 


461 


Dudley, Gov. Thomas 36. 

Eaton, Gen. William 130. 

Edwards, Jonathan 150, 159. 

Eliot, John 36, 120. 

Ellsworth, Oliver 134. 

Emerson, Ralph Waldo 28. 

Fessenden, William Pitt 197. 

Fields, the 150. 

Fisk, Wilbur 103. 

Foote, Admiral Andrew II. 79. 

Franklin, Benjamin 11. 

Garrison, William Lloyd 261 
Gays, the 24. 

Goffe, Gen. William 161. 

Goodrich, C. A. 79. 

Goodrich, S. G. 116. 

Gorton, Samuel 67. 

Grants, the 134. 

Greeley, Horace 192. 

Greene, Gen. G. S. 67* 

Greene, Gen. Nathaniel 67. 

Grow, Galusha A. 118. 

Hale, Senator John P. 213, 281. 

Halleck, Fitz Greene 76. 

Hancock, John 38. 

Haraden, Capt. Jonathan 248. 
Hawthorne, Nathaniel 254, 28, 210, 311. 
Hazens, the 280 

Holmes, Oliver Wendell 30, 146. 
Hooker, Gen. Joseph 162. 

Hosmer, Harriet G. 35. 

Howard, Gen. Oliver O. 291. 

Howe, Elias, Jr. 130. 

Hudson, Hendrick 55, 340. 

Ives, Bishop Levi S. 140. 

Judson, Adoniram 275. 

Knowlton, Col. Thomas 118. 

Knox, Gen. Henry 301. 

Lander, Gen. F. W. 254. 

Lawrences, the 279. 

Lincoln, Gen. Benjamin 24. 

Longfellow, Henry W. 33, 311. 

Lowell, James Russell 30. 

Lyon, Gen. Nathaniel 118. 

Mansfield, Gen. J. K. F. 107. 

Marsh, Geo. P. 199. 

Mead, Larkin G. 103. 

Melville, Herman 146. 

Miantonomoh, 72, 97. 

Miller, William 146. 

Mills, Samuel J. 156. 

Monis, Rabbi Judah 126. 

Morse, S. F. B. 79, 346. 

Murray, John 246. 

Murray, W. H. H. 76. 

Nanunteno 98. 


Nott, Eliphalet 118. 

Ossoli, Margaret Fuller, Countess d’ 30. 
Paine, Thomas 90. 

Parker, Thomas 260. 

Passaconaway, 194, 220, 222. 

Pepperell, Sir William 265. 

Percival, James Gates 140. 

Perry, Com. Oliver Hazard 68. 

Philip, King 66. 

Phips, Sir William 298. 

Pickering, Timothy 254. 

Pierce, Franklin 196, 311. 

Powers, Hiram 199. 

Preble, Com. Edward 272. 

Prescott, William II. 254, 105. 

Putnam, Gen. Israel 119, 89, 254. 

Rale, Sebastian 293. 

Rantoul, Robert, Jr. 256. 

Rumford, Count 195. 

St. Castine, Vincent, Baron de 302. 
Sandeman, Robert 116. 

Saxe, John Godfrey 208. 

Seabury, Bishop Samuel 74. 

Shaw, Henry W. (“Josh. Billings ”) 153 
Sherman, Roger 79. 

Silliman, Benjamin 79. 

Smith, Joseph 200. 

Standish, Miles 51. 

Stowe, Mrs. Harriet Beecher 113. 
Stuart, Gilbert C. 68. 

Thoreau, Henry D. 28. 

Ticknor, George 17, 167. 

Trumbulls, the 9S. 

Uncas, 72, 97. 

Ward, Gen. Artemas 126. 

Ward, Gen. F. T. 254. 

Warren, Joseph 27- 
Washburnes, the 291. 

Webster, Daniel 49, 287, 197, 210. 
Webster, Noah 79. 

Whitefteld, George 259. 

Whitney, Prof. W.D. 159. 

Whittier, John Greenleaf 261. 

Williams, Col. Ephraim 156, 356. 
Williston, Samuel 110. 

Wilson, Henry 282. 

Winslow, Admiral John A. 50. 

Winslow, Gov. Edward 50. 

Winslow, Gen. John 50. 

Winslow, Gov. Josiah 50. 

Winthrop, John 14. 

Winthrop, Theodore 79. 

Wolcotts, the 134. 

Wonnolaneet 194. 

Young, Brigham 104, 200. 


Index of Quotations. 


Adams, John Quincy 38, 58. 
Andrew. John A. 149. 
Bartol, Dr. C. A. 215. 


Beecher, Henry Ward 105, 114, 117, 121, 
122, 147, 148, 149, 151, 152, 153, 205. 
Berkeley, Dean 45. 




462 


INDEX. 


Biard, Father 307. 

Bremer, Fredrika 28, 147, 190, 217, 238. 
Bryant, William Cullen 151. 

Burke, Edmund 248. 

Canadian Hand-Book 174, 290, 372. 
Champlain, Samuel de 361. 

Chapman, Rev. Dr. 166. 

Charlevoix, Father 294. 

Chateaubriand 344. 

Connecticut Legislature 70, 72. 

Coolidge and Mansfield 191. 192. 

Cooper, J. Fenimore 26, 29. 

Courier, Boston 141. 

Curtis, George William 144. 

Dickens, Charles 9, 19, 106, 190. 

Dilke, Sir Charles 20, 30, 57, 165, 212, 
378. 

Drake, Francis S. 18, 28, 42, 50, 150, 261. 
Dwight, Pres. Timothy 71, 86, 98, 99, 
146, 158, 249, 260, 275, 366. 

Emerson, Ralph Waldo 28. 

Everett, Edward 27, 52, 156, 215. 

Field, Darby 222. 

Gookin, Daniel, 59, 69. 

Greylock, Godfrey 143, 145,146. 
Hawthorne, Nathaniel 151,154, 155, 179. 
Hayes, Dr. 206. 

Hemans, Mrs. 52. 

Hitchcock, Dr. Edward 152, 178, 179. 
Hoar, Judge 129. 

Howells, William D. 103, 386. 
Humphreys, Col. 86. 

Irving, Washington 344, 346. 

Johnston, Lady Arabella 254. 

Josselyn, John 7, 15. 

Kemble, Fanny 147. 


King, Thomas Starr 212, 214, 215, 216. 
221, 223, 224, 225, 226, 227, 228, 232. 
235, 237, 238, 239, 240, 241. 

Lewis, Alonzo 2'2. 

Longfellow, Henry W. 125, 126, 132, 246, 
39, 51, 76, 324. 

Lossing, Benson J. 73, 356. 

Lyell, Sir Charles 60, 146, 183, 223. 
Marmier, X. 377. 

Marryatt, Capt. 143. 

Mather, Cotton 38, 51, 72, 76, 78, 84, 98, 

I 136, 163, 253, 257, 260. 

Morton, Thomas 38. 

Pemuquid: a ballad 300. 

Percival, J. G. 217. 

Pring, Capt. 317. 

Sedgwick, Miss 143. 

Sigourney, Mrs. 97, 139. 

Silliman, Prof. 109, 140, 147, 377. 

Smith, Capt. John 49, 55, 257. 

Southey, Robert 189. 

'Taylor, Bayard 232. 

Thomas. Judge 129. 

Tboreau, H. D. 28, 49, 55, 57. 

' Tocqueville, de 80. 

Trumbull, John 159. 

Twain, Mark 137. 

Warville, Brissot de 41, 63, 107, 130, 135, 
264. 

Weymouth, Capt. 301, 317. 

Whittier, John G. 89, 104, 144, 195, 215, 
219, 220, 248, 256, 260, 262. 263, 275, 
294, 305, 321. 

Williams, Roger 69. 

Wintlirop, Theodore 243, 244, 296, 297. 
Wortley, Lady Emma S. 91, 92, 246. 



INDEX. 


46 J 


Index to Railways. 


Ashuelot 102. 

Athol and Enfield 100. 

Bangor and Piscataquis 205. 

Boston and Albany 124, 141. 

Boston, Clinton, and Fitchburg 125 
Boston, Concord, and Montreal 209. 
Boston, Hartford, and Erie 117. 

Woonsocket Division 120. 

Boston, Lowell, and Nashua 188. 
Boston and Maine 275. 

Dover and Winnepesaukee 282. 
Boston and Providence 62. 

Cape Cod 54. 

Cheshire 179. 

Concord 192 

Concord and Claremont 196. 
Connecticut and Passumpsic 166. 
Connecticut River 157. 

Connecticut Valley 106. 

Connecticut Western 120. 

Danbury and Norwalk 115. 

Eastern 248. 

Amesbury Branch 261. 

Essex Branch 257. 

Marblehead Branch 255. 

P G. F. and Conway 213. 

European and North American 318. 
Fairhaven 54. 

Fitchburg 175. 

Grand Trunk 287. 

Hartford, Providence, and Fishkill 94. 
Housatonic 114, 147. 


Knox and Lincoln 297. 

Lowell and Lawrence 279. 

Maine Central 307, 309. 

Androscoggin 291. 

Manchester and Lawrence 279. 
Monadnock 179. 

Naugatuck 111. 

New Brunswick and Canada 323. 

New Haven, Hartford, and Springfield 
133. 

New Haven and Stonington 71. 

New Haven and Northampton 108. 

New York and New Haven 84. 
Newburyport 276. 

Northern (N. H.) 197. 

New London Northern 96. 

Old Colony 37. 

Portland and Ogdensburg 284. 

Portland and Rochester 213. 

Portland and Oxford Central 287. 
Providence and Bristol 66. 

Providence and Worcester 93. 
Rensselaer and Saratoga 187, 350 
Rutland and Washington 187. 

Salem and Lowell 255. 

South Shore 48. 

Stonington and Providence 67. 

Vermont Central 199. 

Rutland Division 181. 

Vermont and Mass. 177. 

Worcester and Nashua 104. 


Steamers. 


Boston to Bangor 316. 

“ ' “ Hiugham 22. 

“ “ Nahant 20. 

“ “ St. John 321. 

Fall River Line 47. 
Norwich “ 119. 

Stonington “ 71. 
Martha’s Vineyard 59, 92. 
St. Lawrence River 373. 
Hudson *’ 340. 


Saguenay River 375, 385. 
Mt. Desert Line 302. 

Isles of Shoals 265. 
Narragansett Bay 65. 
Casco “ 274. 

Passamaqnoddy Bay 322. 
Lake Champlain 361. 

“ George 357. 

“ Winnepesaukee 215. 








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Writings of John Fiske. 

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Sixth Edition. Crown 8vo, gilt top, $2.00. 

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With some Reference to its Origin. i2mo, $1.00. 

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In Riverside Library for Young People. Maps. Fifth Edition. 
75 cents. 

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With a colored map. Ninth Edition. Crown 8vo, gilt top, $2.00. 

Outlines of Cosmic Philosophy, 

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Old Tales and Superstitions interpreted by Comparative Mytho¬ 
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Darwinism, and Other Essays. 

Seventh Edition. i2mo, gilt top, $2.00. 

Excursions of an Evolutionist. 

Thirteenth Edition. i2mo, gilt top, $2.00. 

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Eleventh Edition. i2mo, gilt top, $2.00. 

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SOME FRESH NOVELS 


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«7. It. WATSON , General Pass. Agent. 






HOTEL BRUNSWICK, Boston, Mass., Corner of Boyl- 
ston and Clarendon Streets, opposite Trinity Church (Phillips 
Prooks s), the Massachusetts Institute of Technology, the Museum of Natural 
History, and close to the Museum of Fine Arts, the New Old South Church etc 
and annd the best part of the beautiful Pack Pay District. 


A Iso, under the same Proprietorship, 

HOTEL VICTORIA, a new and sumptuous hotel at the corner of 
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, HOTEL PONEMAH, at Milford Springs, N. H., one and a 

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These three famous hotels are conducted by 

BARNES & DUNKLEE. 















































































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BATH AND BOOTHBAY STEAMERS. 

EASTERN STEAMBOAT CO.’S 
“OLD RELIABLE” MAIL LINE. 

Established 1866 . 

Steamers WIWURNA, NAHANADA, 

SAMOSET, WINTER HARBOR. 


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Close connections made at Bath with R. R. trains and Boston Steamers. 

Through tickets sold at Boston R. R. Stations and on Kennebec Steam¬ 
boat Co.’s Steamers. Baggage checked through. Fares (Summer Excursion), 
Boston to Boothbay and Islands, round trip, by Steamer from Boston, $2.75; 
by Rail, #6.75. 

In Summer a Steamer of this line runs to the cottage resorts at Murray 
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H. W. SWANTON, Treas. 

Eastern Steamboat Co ., Bath , Me, 












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**»*» T-J™ •>» 

^ PROFILE HOUSE. s; 



The Franconia Notch, high amia 
the mountains, enwrapped in ric! 
foliage, bright with many waters, 
and abounding in singular rock- 
sculptures, possesses many points 
of attraction unequaled elsewhere 
in New England, and thousands 
of travelers visit'this cool recess 
with every returning season. The 
scenery is at once fantastic and 
peaceful, and its grandeur is tem¬ 
pered with a grace and an arboreal 
richness rarely encountered in the 
immediate presence of the great 
and sombre mountains. There is 
also a pleasing aspect of finish and 
cultivation among the artificial ad¬ 
juncts of the place not often en¬ 
countered in our American, summer 
resorts. Even the little railway 
on which we have asce^dec ten 
miles through the wildernto,,, de¬ 
corously hides its terminus in the 
woods, and avoids intrusion on the 
trim lawns of the Profile House 
and its cottages. The great hotel is almost a vii'jage in 
itself, and its great pillared walls rise like sorr e old 
castle of Camelot. 1974 feet above the sea is; this 
eyrie, and yet above it still greater cliffs rise into the luminous blue 
sky. The supreme jewel of this treasury of Nature is the great! stone 
face, the world-renowned Profile, undoubtedly the most remarkable rock forma tion 
in this country, i.f not in the w r orld. 1200 feet below this venerated sculpture glimmei-s 
the bright Profile Lake, w'hose waters flow out to form the w r ild Permgewasset, an d 
through the broadening Merrimac to find the sea at Newburyport. ft is but hall' 
a mile to Echo Lake, whose outflow seeks the Ammonoosuc £nd the Connecticut, . 
and makes the long journey to Long Island Sound. This is even more beautiful 
than Profile Lake ; and the tremendous crags of Mount Lafayette overhang its crys¬ 
tal depths with noble effect. 

A fine Steam Yacht takes passengers to the best points from which to obtain the 
marvelous echoes which reverberate among the hills. Good row-boats on both lakes 
and excellent bass and trout fishing attract the lovers of aquatic and piscatorial sports 
The Profile is the largest summer hotel in New' England, and its patronage o 
the highest order. It contains every modern convenience, and all the popular amuse¬ 
ments are furnished. A first-class orchestra, piusic-room, and fine tennis grounds 
are among the attractions for the young ; while shady woodland paths and well-kept 
roads invite those who desire to exhilarating walks and pleasant drives. Excursions 
on foot or by carriage may be made to Bald Mountain, Echo and Profile Lakes, Old 
Man of the Mountain, through the Franconia Notch to the Flume (which is the ob¬ 
ject of a pilgrimage to every White Mountain tourist), the Flume House, Pool, Basin, 
and several minor points of interest. Also by rail to Bethlehem, Maplewood, Jeffer¬ 
son, Mount Washington, or through the White Mountain Notch to North Conway, 
and return the same day. Open from June 25th to October 1st of each year. 

P. O. address Profile House, N. H. Location positively exempt from Hay fc _r. 
The Profile Farm and Greenhouses supply fresh Milk and Vegetables, also rare 
plants and Flowers in abundance. 

; Our New Flume House, open from June 1st to November 1st, has accommoda¬ 
tions for one hundred guests, and is well adapted to the wants of those who desire 
to make a long season in the mountains. TAFT & GREEN LEAF, 

C. H. Grkenlbaf, of Hotel Vendome, Boston. . . Proprietors. 











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4 





.APR 1959 

























































